trek hub gear bikes

• ⋙ Start Here

Search suggestions:

Popular searches:.

• Best cycling jeans
• Urban cycling brands
• stylish helmets
• Gifts for cyclists

Belt-Driven Bikes

Best Belt-Drive Bikes: Top 7 Belt Bicycles for Commuters

By Pete Reynolds

Updated Nov 27, 2023

This post may contain affiliate links, which help to keep Discerning Cyclist rolling. Learn more .

Thinking of taking the plunge and ditching the chains for a belt-driven bike? Well, read on because we’ve picked out seven of the best belt-drive bikes for you to pick from below.

Belt-drive bikes are made from carbon fiber, like a chain – the crank drives the belt and turns the rear wheel. The difference is that belts can’t shift between cogs like a chain – they have an internal hub gearing system instead.

Best Belt-Drive Commuter Bikes: Top 7

Budget pick

Priority Classic Plus

A top-class budget belt-bike.

Top Pick for Commuters

Trek District 4 Equipped Commuter Belt Bike

Stylish urban bicycle perfect for cycling to and from work.

Great value

Priority Brilliant L Train 7-Speed

A speedy belt-driven bikes with larger gear range.

Belt-Driven Hybrid Bike

Trek District 1 Equipped Commuter Bike

Best belt drive hybrid bike for city riding.

Belt-Driven Gravel Bike

Priority Apollo Gravel Belt Bike

Ideal belt drive bike for both beginners and experienced cyclists.

Single Speed

Priority Ace Belt Drive Single Speed

Only single-speed belt drive featuring Gates Carbon Drive.

Carbon Belt Drive

Brilliant Cooper

A classic and easy-to-ride option for daily commuters.

City Transit

Marin Presidio 3

A fast, fun, and exciting commuter.

Electric Belt-Driven Bike

Trek Café Moto Go! Electric Belt Bike

A one-of-a-kind e-bike.

Are Belt-Drive Bikes Any Good?

Of course, especially if you’re a commuter or a more leisurely cyclist, given how little hassle belt-drive bikes generally cause you.

For starters, they’re more durable, lasting up twice as long as a typical bike chain . They’re also cleaner – there’s no grease marks or rust, nor will dirt stick to it like it will to an oiled chain, which in turn means you won’t risk spilling oil or dirty water on you or the floor.

Belt drives are also lighter and quieter than a chain bicycle, and they also work with fitness and stationary bikes, too.

That said, they lack the same flexibility as chains and are more likely to cause friction, tend to cost about £200 more than a bike with chain, and can only be used with bikes with internal-gear, fixed-gear and single-speed hubs – not derailleurs.

You also can’t take it apart and re-install like you can with a chain; there is a more limited selection of belt-drive bike lengths, consequently.

Discerning Cyclist’s expert reviewers spend hours testing and comparing cycling products so you don’t have to.

Testing stylish gear since 2012

Hundreds of hands-on product tests

Unfiltered opinions from experienced cyclists

Learn more about Discerning Cyclist here.

Best Belt-Drive Bicycles for Commuting [GUIDE]

1. priority classic plus.

Prices are approximate

• Gates Carbon Drive Belt.
• Enhanced wheels and pedals.
• Lightweight at just 25lbs (11kg).

Easy and comfortable to ride.

Requires low maintenance.

Durable wheels and pedals.

But if you’re working on tighter financial constraints, fear not – the Priority Classic Plus should still have all you need and more.

An incredibly light model at just 25lbs, it’s easy to ride, with enhanced wheels and pedals for that extra bit of durability, too.

And it’s another to offer the services of the Gates Carbon Drive Belt, keeping it free of grease and rust, and providing a longer shelf life than your everyday bike chain.

2. Trek District 4 Equipped Commuter Belt Bike

• 8-speed Shimano Alfine internal hub.
• Gates CDN belt drive system.

Quiet and low-maintenance.

Easy gear shifting.

Tailor made for urban and city driving.

Looking for internal gear hub bikes for sale which look as great as they feel? The District 4 Equipped could be the bike for you.

Tailor-made for trips around urban towns and cities, it boasts a quiet, low-maintenance Gates CDN belt drive system and an eight-speed Shimano Alfine internal hub for easy gear shifting.

If you’re keen, but find it’s out of your price range, check out their previous model, the District 3, which is £350 cheaper,  here .

3. Priority Brilliant L Train 7-Speed

• Quality belt-driven bike, commuter or otherwise.
• 7-speed internal hub.
• Lightweight bicycle belt drive.

Lightweight frame.

Grease and rust-free belt drive.

Ideal for fast city rides.

While this is a terrific commuter bike, the Priority Brilliant L Train is equally ‘brilliant’ if you just fancy touring the city, or are strapping yourself in for a longer, more adventurous ride.

What makes this bike great? Well, its lightweight Chromoly frame is a big plus, as is its grease and rust-free Gates Carbon belt drive.

And with a seven-gear internal hub to add a speedy touch, the Brilliant L Train could hardly offer more for cyclists of any sort.

4. Trek District 1 Equipped Commuter Bike

• 7-speed internal gearing.
• Powerful brakes.
• 3.0-watt Dynamo hub.

Best hybrid bike for city rides.

Good for all weather conditions.

Offers a smooth ride.

Into hybrid bikes with internal hub gears? This is a great choice for a belt drive bike, commuter or not.

The District 1 Equipped offers  low maintenance , seven-speed internal gearing, a road-smoothing suspension fork and great speed thanks to its 3.0-watt Dynamo hub.

What’s more, its Shimano roller brakes will deliver firm stopping power, no matter how treacherous the weather conditions may be during your cycle.

5. Priority Apollo Gravel Belt Bike

• 11-speed gear range.
• 24lbs (11kg) weight.
• Has drop bar shifters.

Lightest, fastest Apollo model.

Reliable on all surfaces and in all conditions.

All-road cycling with a belt-drive bike.

If a single-figure range of gears just isn’t enough for you, you might be tempted by the Apollo Gravel instead; the first gravel grinder with an internally-geared 11-speed hub and drop bar shifters.

It’s Priority’s lightest model at 24lbs, yet also their fastest, offering stability on looser surfaces and reliable gear shifting and braking no matter what the elements throw your way.

Of course, it’s not the cheapest of its range at $1,699, but if you want the optimum experience of all-road cycling with a belt-drive bike, the Apollo is your first port of call.

6. Priority Ace Belt Drive Single Speed

• Gates Carbon Drive.
• Single-speed belt drive.
• Flip-flor rear hub.

Can be geared to your style of cycling.

Flexible and durable.

Fits every budget.

Alternatively, if you’re not fussy about a wide array of gears, the Ace is the only single-speed belt to boast the Gates Carbon Drive.

Its flip-flor rear hub offers great flexibility in how you: either The Ace of Clubs, for more recreational riders, or The Ace of Spades, for performance riders who want to eke every last drop out of their model.

Whichever you prefer, you’ll be safe in knowledge that the Ace can be ‘geared’ to your style of cycling, even with just the one actual gear in its arsenal.

7. Brilliant Cooper

• Shimano 3-speed.
• 27lbs (12kg).
• 1020 steel frame.

Tire width of 1,25″ (32mm).

Fast stopping power with V-brakes.

Lightweight.

Brilliant Cooper’s belt-driven drivetrain stands out as a major advantage, offering a clean and oil-free cycling experience.

Additionally, the Cooper features a Gates carbon belt and cranks of respectable quality, ensuring durability and reliability in its performance. The combination of these features makes for a low-maintenance and hassle-free riding experience, particularly well-suited for commuters looking to avoid the mess of traditional chains.

The Cooper offers extreme comfort with a lightweight build, and high-quality V-brakes, emphasizing its suitability for everyday riding.

8. Marin Presidio 3

• Shimano 8-speed.
• 700C wheel size.
• Marin alloy flat top riser handlebar.

Lightweight 6061 aluminum tubing.

Hydraulic disc brakes provide smooth, controlled stopping.

Minimal maintenance.

The Marin Presidio 3 is a premium commuter bike designed to elevate your daily urban riding experience. Its lightweight Series 2 aluminum frame, equipped with sliding dropouts, internal cable routing, and belt drive compatibility, ensures a smooth and efficient ride.

With a Shimano Nexus 8-speed internally geared hub and Gates Carbon Drive belt, this bike delivers reliability and low maintenance, making it an ideal choice for city commuting.

This bike doesn’t compromise on stopping power, thanks to Shimano hydraulic disc brakes, ensuring controlled braking in all weather conditions. The Vee Tire Co.

Baldy tires offer puncture protection and added visibility with reflective sidewalls. Its ergonomic design, Marin Fitness saddle, and Commute Platform pedals prioritize rider comfort and convenience.

Best Electric Belt Bike

9. trek café moto go electric belt bike.

• Bosch Performance CX Speed motor.
• Gates belt drive.
• Enviolo rear hub.

Reach top assisted speed at 25km/h.

Combines a stylish and retro look.

One-of-a-kind e-bike.

Last but not least, if you’re an electric bike fan, no problem – there’s a belt-driven bicycle for that, too.

This limited edition Café Moto Go! possesses all you could ever want from this kind of bike, including a Bosch Performance CX Speed motor, a Gates belt drive, and Enviolo rear hub – indeed, it can reach top assisted speeds as high as 25 km/h.

Or if you fancy something slightly simpler, less flashy and (slightly) cheaper, be sure to have look at Trek’s District +9 model, another high-end city e-bike,  here .

Belt Bikes – FAQs

Why are bikes belt-driven.

To provide cyclists with a low-maintenance alternative, which should last longer, weigh less, stay cleaner and make less noise than a ‘normal’ bike with a chain.

Do Trek make a belt drive bike?

Yes – Trek have a substantial range of belt-driven bikes.

The Trek District 4 Hybrid Belt Bike is one of their most popular models, while they also have electric bikes in the form of the District 9+ and the eye-catching Café Moto Go! e-bike .

Where to buy a belt-driven bike?

Belt-driven bikes are still something of a rarity. However, there are a few specialist manufacturers that make them. You can find several hub gear bikes at the likes of:

• Priority Bicycles
• Schindelhauer Bikes

Discerning Cyclist Store

Visit the Discerning Cyclist's Shop

Ride in style

Join our weeky newsletter to get early access to our latest discoveries.

Related reads

Priority bicycles review: are priority bikes actually any good.

By Lawrence Bywater

IKEA Sladda: What Happened (and Why Did it Get Recalled)?

Urtopia carbon one review: the smartest e-bike in the world, honbike uni4 review: long-range belt-driven e-bike tested, belt drive vs chain drive bike: pros + cons.

By Kevin Glenton

Best Folding Bikes with Belt Drive: Top 7 Options

By David Jones

Accessibility tools

Bike test: hub-geared roadsters.

The term roadster is often used interchangeably with city bike, Dutch bike, or even opafiets and omafiets (grandfather bike and grandmother bike in Dutch). Whichever term you choose, certain design traits are universal: practicality, low maintenance, comfort and durability.

This tends to make them a few kilograms heavier and a bit slower than bikes that cycling enthusiasts favour. That’s not important. What matters is that you can hop on them in whatever clothes you’re wearing and know they will be reliable and easy to use for everyday tasks such as shopping and commuting.

The Gazelle Esprit T3 is a genuine Dutch roadster, made in the Netherlands by a company that specialises in such bikes. The vast majority of its non-electric models feature hub dynamos and/or hub gears, two classic roadster features.

Trek is an American company better known for its road and mountain bikes. Despite this, the Loft 7i EQ Step-Over has broadly similar equipment to the Gazelle Esprit T3, with dynamo-powered lights, hub gearing, a chainguard, mudguards and a rear rack. The main spec difference is Trek’s choice of rim brakes over the Gazelle’s roller brakes.

Frame and fork

Both bikes have an aluminium frame and a steel fork, although they look quite different. The Gazelle’s funky modern look with varied tube profiles contrasts with the traditional round tubing on the Trek, which is in keeping with its retro feel.

As you would expect from high-quality manufacturers, welds are neat and strong and the matt black paintwork on both bikes is silkily smooth. Much of the Gazelle’s cabling is internally routed, as is the dynamo wiring within the front fork and main frame.

The head tube is specially shaped to accommodate a frame-integrated front LED. It looks stylish and gives the lamp some protection too.

The front LED can be relocated to sit on the front of an optional, metal basket-style front rack (load rating 5kg, £54.95), which uses the light housing on the frame for mounting. A front basket is a practical choice for a city bike, as you can just drop your shoulder bag in it and pedal off.

By contrast, the Trek’s cables run externally, although on this black frame they are barely visible. While frame-integrated cables are neater, some might prefer external cables for easier maintenance. You could fit a low-rider rack to the Trek as the fork has extra eyelets at the dropouts, although there aren’t any halfway up the fork legs so you’ll need to clamp the rack there.

I tested medium-sized versions of both bikes. The Gazelle sits you in a more upright position, although the step-over height of the frame is also higher. If you’re much shorter than male average, you might struggle to get either of these diamond-frame bikes to fit you.

The Trek only comes in medium (50.4cm) and large (55.4cm) sizes. The Gazelle comes in small (49cm), medium (54cm) and large (59cm).

There are step-through versions of both bikes, which do have smaller frame options. Additionally, all Loft models feature what Trek calls ‘Flat Foot Technology’: the seat tube is behind the bottom bracket, so its effective angle is significantly shallower than the geometry figures suggest. In effect, it brings the saddle a bit closer to the ground while maintaining the same distance to the pedals.

Disc brakes are relatively common at this price point, so it’s perhaps surprising that neither bike has them. The Gazelle has roller brakes, in keeping with its low-maintenance-above-all-else approach. Roller brakes are heavier and have a little less bite than discs, but they are long lasting and need only the occasional greasing by way of attention.

The Trek has long-reach dual-pivot sidepull brakes, presumably a weight-saving choice. They’re simple and work OK but both the pads and (eventually) wheel rims will wear out so they’re not a low-maintenance choice. Given its higher price point, I feel that hydraulic discs would have suited the Trek more.

The Gazelle has a 3-speed Shimano Nexus hub, the Trek a 7-speed one. If you can live with the reduced hill-climbing ability of the Nexus 3-speed, it’s a great low-maintenance system.

Its bell crank mechanism means that indexing is uncomplicated, and it detaches easily if you need to change a rear flat. (The roller brake is a little more fiddly but still fairly straightforward once you have the knack.) It shifts crisply and with minimal effort.

By contrast, removing the cable from the Nexus 7 rear hub is one of those jobs that always seems to cry out for an extra pair of hands. I found that the Nexus 7 gear required the indexing to be spot on for clean lower gear changes.

If you do have to refit the rear wheel, it’s also a little more awkward to centre it in the frame and to get the chain tension just right because the Trek doesn’t have chain tugs like the Gazelle does.

The Gazelle’s rack is rated at 27kg, underscoring its heavy-duty, workman-like credentials, while the Trek’s will carry 18kg. Note that the Gazelle’s rack uses larger gauge tubing (14.3mm) which may not take older-style pannier fixings with narrow hooks. The Trek’s rack has 10mm tubing, which should accommodate any pannier.

Both of the Gazelle’s lights are dynamo powered, and the rear is nicely protected from damage by the rack. The Trek’s dynamo powers only the front light; the rear is battery powered and rather exposed on the rear mudguard.

However, the Trek’s front lamp is brighter and better illuminates unlit roads. It’s powered by a 3W dynamo (the Gazelle’s is rated at 2.4W), and all that power goes to the front lamp. Both dynamo setups are inexpensive but entirely practical systems.

The Gazelle is a heavier and more heavy-duty bike than the Trek, and that applies to most of the equipment on the bike too. Even the kickstand is sturdier – it will easily handle fully loaded parking. The Gazelle’s mudguards and chainguard are an exception: they’re plastic, whereas the Trek’s are steel.

Both bikes provide a comfortable, easy-going ride in city traffic – easy going, that is, as long as there aren’t too many steep hills.

The gearing of both bikes suits flatter terrain, especially the 3-speed Gazelle. (A 7-speed version is available.) I didn’t use either bike’s top gear much but often wanted a lower one. The simplest way to get that would be to fit a larger rear sprocket (and some extra chain links).

The Gazelle is super stable – a great attribute in busy city traffic when you have one hand off the handlebar to signal. The Trek is still a nice stable-handling town bike but has less trail and reacts more to smaller movements of the handlebar.

Neither bike has powerful brakes. The Shimano IM31 rear roller brake on the Gazelle feels weak. The beefier-looking front roller brake (BR-C3000F) is much better, and it’s modulated to stop it locking up so you can haul hard on the lever when you need to.

I’d still like a better rear roller brake (something Gazelle say is an option) but once you get used them they’re about as effective as the dual-pivot rim brakes of the Trek, with the added benefit of ultra-low maintenance.

In terms of ride comfort, it’s a draw. The Trek has a large sprung saddle that soaks up vibration well but the Gazelle has a more comfortable handlebar position and wider tyres.

While both bikes share the same remit of easy city riding, they are actually quite distinct. If you value low maintenance above low weight, then the Gazelle Esprit T3 is very good value and should give many years of service.

The Trek Loft 7i EQ will need a little more attention as time passes (especially those brakes) but it’s still low maintenance compared to most bikes. It’s not as keenly priced as the Gazelle but is around 3kg lighter. That alone may make it worth splashing the extra cash for some riders.

First published in Cycle magazine, February/March 2022 issue. All information correct at time of publishing.

Our test promise

At Cycling UK and Cycle magazine, we are proudly independent. There’s no pressure to please advertisers as we’re funded by your membership. Our product reviews aren’t press releases; they’re written by experienced cyclists after thorough testing.

Gazelle Esprit T3

Price: £629

Sizes: Small (49cm), medium (54cm, tested), large (59cm)

Weight: 18.9kg/41.7lb

Frame & fork: Aluminium frame with rear-facing dropouts and fittings for roller brake, rear rack, mudguard and front lamp/rack. Steel fork with fittings for roller brake and mudguard

Wheels: 42-622 Continental Ride City tyres, Ryde Dutch rims with 36H 2-cross spoking (13g rear, 14g front), Shimano Nexus 3 rear hub, Shimano dyno hub

Transmission: Plastic platform pedals, 38T chainset, square tape bottom bracket, KMC Z410 RB chain, 18T sprocket. Shimano Nexus 3-speed hub with twistgrip shifter. 3 ratios, 43-80in

Braking: Shimano roller brakes front and rear (BR-C3000F and BR-IM31)

Steering & seating: Widek Aerowing grips, comfort curved aluminium bars, Gazelle Nero quill stem, threaded headset. Selle Royal saddle, 27.2mm aluminium seatpost

Equipment: Alloy rear rack (front rack optional extra), enclosed plastic chainguard, plastic mudguards, AXA Solid Plus wheel lock with optional cable extra, front and rear LED lights powered by Shimano 2.4W front hub dynamo

Trek Loft 7I EQ Step-Over

Price: £875

Sizes: Medium (tested) and large

Weight: 15.7kg/34.6lb

Frame & fork: 6061-T6 aluminium frame with forward-facing dropouts and fittings for rack, mudguard, two bottles. Steel fork with mudguard fittings

Wheels: 35-622 Innova tyres, double-wall alloy 32-hole rims with 14g spokes, Shimano Nexus 7 rear hub, Shimano front dyno hub

Transmission: Alloy platform pedals, 44t chainset, sealed cartridge square taper bottom bracket, KMC Z7 chain, 20t rear sprocket. Shimano Nexus 7-speed hub and twistgrip shifter. 7 ratios, 38-93in

Braking: Lee Chi RC-483 long-reach dual-pivot callipers with alloy levers

Steering & seating: Electra faux leather grips, 580×25.4mm Electra custom bend alloy bar, quill stem, threaded headset. Sprung saddle, 27.2mm alloy seatpost

Equipment: Aluminium rear rack, steel chainguard (partial), front Spanninga Brio LED dynamo lamp, rear battery-powered Spanninga Pixeo LED lamp

Other options

Pashley princess sovereign  £995-£1,095.

Classic vintage look with high-quality, low-maintenance features and either 5-speed or 8-speed hub gears.

The Light Blue Parkside Step-Thru 5-Speed  £649.99

Aluminium-framed, steel-forked roadster with 5-speed Sturmey Archer hub and V-brakes. Reviewed in the April/May 2022 issue of Cycle magazine .

Popular content

• Journey planner
• A guide to cycle tyre sizes
• King Alfred’s Way
• Top tips for first-time bike touring and bikepacking

Further reading

• Planning your route
• Traws Eryri
• Rebellion Way
• West Kernow Way
• Great North Trail
• North Downs Way
• Support our routes and work
• Beginner advice
• Cycling as a family
• Different types of cycling
• Bikes, cycles and kit
• Seasonal advice
• Safety advice
• Maintenance advice
• Ride together (clubs and groups)
• Our campaigns
• Take action to support cycling
• Cycle Advocacy Network
• Cyclists' Defence Fund
• Sign up for updates
• Cycling UK statistics
• Cycling UK views and briefings
• General election 2024
• Become a member
• Give a gift membership
• Become a life member
• Ways of giving
• Join the conversation
• Bike Week 2024
• Incident Line
• Support for workplaces
• Cycle Friendly Employer
• Employer membership
• Corporate partnerships
• Organising events
• Cycle magazine
• Cycling UK shop
• Support for clubs and groups
• Our projects
• Making cycling e-asier
• The Inclusive Cycling Experience
• Cycling UK in England
• Cycling UK in Northern Ireland
• Cycling UK in Scotland
• Cycling UK in Wales
• News, blogs and features
• Our strategy to 2029
• Accessibility

2022 Trek District commuter bike brings premium belt drive, dynamo hub model to U.S.

• Click to share on Facebook (Opens in new window)
• Click to email a link to a friend (Opens in new window)

Already popular in Europe, Trek’s bringing their well-equipped District 4 commuter bicycle to North America for “serious” commuters who appreciate a low-maintenance, well-equipped, and fully-featured city bike.

Equipped with a clean, quiet Gates CDX Belt Drive, it needs no lube or grease and claims 3x the lifespan of a typical chain.

That feeds power into a Shimano Alfine 8-speed internally geared rear hub for easy shifting and a wide gear range. Shimano MT200 hydraulic brakes should be similarly problem free for years.

Up front, a Shimano 3-Watt dynamo hub powers premium Herrmans MR8 (180-lumen/60lux) front and H-trace Eco rear lights so you won’t ever need to add (or charge) batteries.

Fenders, a kickstand, and pre-installed rear rack come standard, too. Basically, it’s everything we’d want on a commuter bike, ready to roll straight out of the shop.

The frame is a lightweight aluminum that comes in standard and “Stagger” (step-thru) designs. It rolls on 700x40mm tires, with reflective sidewalls for safety, which should provide the right blend of comfort and speed. Retail is $1,699 USD and has a lifetime warranty on the frame…and they actually have inventory right now at TrekBikes.com .

Disclosure: Some of these links are affiliate links that may earn a small commission for Bikerumor if you click on them and buy something. This helps support our work here without costing you anything extra. You can learn more about how we make money here . Thanks!

Tyler Benedict is the Founder of Bikerumor.com , where he’s been writing about the latest bikes, components, and cycling technology for almost two decades. Prior to that, Tyler launched and built multiple sports nutrition brands and consumer goods companies, mostly as an excuse to travel and ride in new places.

Based in North Carolina, Tyler also loves the Vanlife & family adventure travel and is always on the lookout for the next shiny new part and off-grid adventure.

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed .

I’m not a big brand bike kind of guy, but I love the practical utility of this. It checks most of the boxes for a commuter, errand running, short jaunt kind of bike. Well done.

Hydro discs, gates belt drive, and a dynohub are definitely wins. Still not sold on the Shimano 8 speed internal hub’s durability.. I’ve just seen to many of them explode, but maybe they’ve improved in recent years.

Hmmmm “ they actually have inventory right now” seems wrong. I am seeing them having an ETA June 2022…. Might wanna check that source

I work at Trek, there actually is inventory. Warehouse gets them in mid-late July, which is much sooner that most other bikes

just get a Priority Continuum Its nearly identical but costs $430 less

I wish they had sprung for the alfine 11 spd. The 8 spd has some big jumps between the gears.

I never had problems with derailleurs,but recently got an Alfine 11 after being curious about it forever. It is everything I expected it to be. A big plus is the ability to shift from a stand-still. ..helpful when you are zipping along in high gear, but suddenly get stuck at an intersection and want to get going quicker. These bikes are ok. My style is more of a packback, rechargeable light, removeable fenders, etc,(to cut some weight), as opposed to generator hub/rack,etc. If you want a bike ‘loaded’ , these seem to check all the boxes.

Too bad this is basically identical to a priority continuum but $400 more expensive

I’ve been riding & loving the Priority Continuum Onyx for almost a year. Essentially the same as this (heavy and loaded) except it has continuously variable tranny hub instead of the 8 Alfine. Bulletproof BUT: It can only be operated by a grip shifter which I do not like (wrist action etc…) and cannot be adapted for triggers….. I may switch to the Trek District just to get the trigger shifters back….

Cannot agree more: I’ve been riding my Continuum Onyx trouble-free for over a year (5,000+ miles)…. & love it. But even after a year, I just cannot intuitively adapt to the twist shifter after 30+ years of rapid-fires….. I will likely get this Trek when it hits my local bike shop for that reason alone….

why would I ever buy this when I can get the nearly identical (it actually has better lights then the trek and a usb phone charging port) Priority Continuum Onyx for $430 less

Follow Us On

Subscribe Now

Sign up to receive BikeRumor content direct to your inbox.

Gear-obsessed editors choose every product we review. We may earn commission if you buy from a link. How we test gear.

Tested: Trek District 4 Equipped Stagger

A Fully Equipped European-style Commuter for Bike Lovers

Takeaway: Fully equipped, the District 4 Stagger includes almost every amenity imaginable, stripping away off-bike maintenance and preparation in favor of a polished on-bike experience. Arriving at work or the grocery is more graceful than ever on this quiet, maintenance-free cruiser. With a belt drive system, internally geared rear hub, and quick-stopping hydraulic brakes, it highlights the reason so many of us prefer to commute by bike: the joy of motion.

• Purpose built and well appointed commuter bike.
• Silent running Gates Belt Drive system and Shimano internal hub.
• Front dynamo hub with front and rear lights.
• Swept back handlebar makes climbing difficult.

Price: $1,730 Weight: 34lbs (Large)

Trek District 4 Equipped Stagger

Trek District 4 Equipped Stagger Build Details

Style: Commuter bike Frame: Alpha Smooth Aluminum, internal cable routing, belt compatibility, post-mount disc Fork: Rigid Aluminum Hub front: Shimano 3.0 watt dynamo hub Hub rear: Shimano Alfine S7000, 8-speed Rims: Bontrager Connection, alloy, double-wall, 32-hole Tire: Bontrager H2 Comp, reflective, wire bead, 30 tpi, 700x40c Shifter: Shimano Alfine S7000, 8-speed Crank: Gates CDX S250, 46T Cassette: Gates CDX, 22T steel ring Saddle: Bontrager Commuter Comp Seatpost: Bontrager alloy, 27.2mm, 12mm offset, 330mm length Handlebar: Alloy, 31.8mm clamp, 25mm rise, 630mm width Grips: Bontrager Satellite Elite, alloy lock-on Stem: Bontrager alloy, 31.8mm, Blendr compatible, 7 degree rise Headset: 1-1/8'' threadless, sealed cartridge bearings Brakes: Shimano MT200 hydraulic disc Brake rotors: Shimano RT10, Centerlock, 160mm Rear Light: Herrmans H-Trace ECO dynamo LED Front Light: Herrmans MR8, 180 lumen, 60 lux Extra: Rear mount alloy kickstand, SKS front & rear plastic fenders

Trek District 4 Gallery

European-type city bikes are increasingly in popularity in the United States, so much so that Trek decided to bring their top-of-the-line city bikes from Europe to market stateside. The District 4 Equipped Stagger offers geometry similar to the flagship Trek Townie with larger wheels, a shorter wheelbase and longer seat tube to adapt more easily to mixed urban terrain. The success of e-bikes in the category has cleared space for more aggressive cruisers like the District 4 that emphasize the simplicity of on-bike experience instead of decreased physical exertion.

For many riders in major American cities, Trek is a controversial name. The brand has seen public outcry and boycotts in the wake of the 2020 racial justice protests for supplying police departments across the country with bikes designed for crowd suppression. However, Trek is not alone in their contentious affiliation, as others have also received condemnation for their ties to law enforcement and military contracts.

Though the online discourse is decidedly not in their favor, Trek maintains an outsized presence in cycling due to the breadth and quality of their products. Their bicycles are fitted with high-end components and backed by top-notch repairs and customer service, while their global brick-and-mortar presence makes the brand well-suited for first-time riders and avid cyclists alike.

The District range offers two bikes, a step-over model with flat bars and a step-through (Stagger) bike with swept-back cruiser bars. Each are available in Europe with the addition of an electric motor under the District+ name, though these e-bike variants have yet to make it to American shores. Both District models provide an upright riding position, while the Stagger offers more comfort at the expense of climbing ability. They are only available fully equipped (meaning with rack, fenders, and lights), as many of the accessories are integrated with the frame.

The District 4 Equipped Stagger is curated at the component level to make daily rides easier and more comfortable. It features a silent internal gear rear hub, a clean-running belt drive system, powerful disc brakes, and a dynamo front hub which powers the front and rear lights. No creature comfort is spared, and though the price point makes that apparent, the ability to commute safely right out of the box is tremendous.

The District 4 has ergonomic Bontrager Satellite Elite grips, which project down to support the palm, and offer dual-density pressure distribution to make holding the bars as gentle on your hands as possible. The partially-split Bontrager Commuter Comp saddle pairs well, allowing an extended upright position without sacrificing soft tissue protection. Both components are waterproof to handle any conditions.

The bike also comes equipped with front and rear SKS plastic fenders to keep your pants clean in the event of an unexpected drizzle. Combined with the internal hub and belt drive, it’s easy to dismount the District 4 Equipped Stagger in approximately the same state of composure as when you got on.

Though the Stagger model sacrifices the seat tube bottle mount found on the non-step through District, the down tube mount has plenty of room for a large water bottle. The loss of storage capacity is also barely missed since the large aluminum MIK-compatible rack has the size and durability to attach multiple panniers with room to spare.

As a frequent bike commuter from Brooklyn into Lower Manhattan, I was eager to run the District 4 through its paces to see if I could really get to work as clean and sweat-free as the lifestyle commuter promised. Mounting the bike is as easy as sitting down on a chair and the upright cruiser bar position makes back strain negligible.

I set off and was immediately awed by the silence of the belt drive system. My jangling keys were the loudest thing on the bike. Allure shortly became alarm when I realized that my silence made no impression on the pedestrians or vehicles around me. Then I noticed that the bike lacked a bell. On most bikes, the bell is a user-added preference but on the District 4 I couldn’t help but feel its absence among the included buffet of commute accessories. Plus, a bell is required in many places.

My ride into the city begins with a non-trivial mile-long incline, which proved the greatest challenge to the District 4. On a bike with a more traditional flat bar, one can adjust their posture to tackle an incline with only a little added exertion. The step-through Stagger model with its cruiser bar makes climbing slow at best. At 34lbs, the bike isn’t outlandishly heavy, but it bears close to 10 pounds more weight than my daily ride. I made a mental note to re-draw my route and avoid roads over a 5° incline.

On flatter roads and downhills, the District 4 really shines. The internal hub shifts are responsive and offer decent range, though I found myself topping out the highest of the bike’s 8-speeds on a few descents. Though the bike is comfortable reaching speeds up to 20mph, I experienced front wheel wobble as I neared 25mph and consequently had to readjust the fenders. Slowing down from high speed is a piece of cake for the District 4, with quick-action hydraulic disc brakes ideal for defensive urban riding.

The District is a head-turner, too. Fellow cyclists loved seeing the disc brakes, belt drive, and front hub dynamo-integrated lighting system. Loaded up with my groceries and bar-mounted burrito pouch, I found myself knocking out errands including an overzealous trip to the hardware store with ease.

Though I only had to perform superficial maintenance and the bike promises little need, the internal hub and belt enclosure make DIY maintenance unappealing. If something goes wrong on the District 4, you’ll probably be taking it to the shop. Luckily, there’s at least one brick-and-mortar Trek location in most major cities, including one right en route to my office.

The District 4 Equipped Stagger doesn’t necessarily make cycling more appealing to newcomers, but it does provide plenty of amenities for those who already enjoy the ride. The missing accessories are easily added and the route indelicacies avoided. Fender and lighting integration reduce the likelihood of theft and encourage biking for all manner of local travel.

The District 4 is the distilled essence of urban cycling without the grime, noise, or inconveniences. If you’re a regular cyclist who wants a polished, high-end, out of the box solution for easy commuting and errands, this is a bike for you.

Based in Brooklyn, New York, Aithne is a commuter and urban bike tester of mountain bike experience. Between rides, she produces experimental stories at The Atlantic and organizes media labor. 

.css-1t6om3g:before{width:1.75rem;height:1.75rem;margin:0 0.625rem -0.125rem 0;content:'';display:inline-block;-webkit-background-size:1.25rem;background-size:1.25rem;background-color:#F8D811;color:#000;background-repeat:no-repeat;-webkit-background-position:center;background-position:center;}.loaded .css-1t6om3g:before{background-image:url(/_assets/design-tokens/bicycling/static/images/chevron-design-element.c42d609.svg);} Bike Reviews

Speed, Balance, Refinement: Trek's Gen 4 Top Fuel

Tested: Trek’s Eighth-Generation Madone

Specialized’s Stumpjumper 15 Changes Trail Bikes

The 10 Best Cheap E-Bikes You Can Buy Right Now

Reviewed: BMC's Fourstroke LT

New Specialized Chisel Full Suspension Reviewed

Little Bike, Big Attitude: Scor’s 2030

The Best Commuter Bikes for Getting Around Town

The 13 Best Electric Bikes, Tested by Our Editors

The Best Folding Electric Bikes

The 10 Best Mountain Bikes You Can Buy Right Now

• MAGAZINE OFFERS
• BIKE INSURANCE
• Best Products
• Maintenance
• Accessories
• Long-Term Reviews
• BikeRadar Podcast
• First Look Friday
• Bike of the Week
• Tech Features
• Routes and Rides
• Bike Galleries
• BikeRadar Bargains
• Buyer's Guides
• Fitness & Training
• Sizing & Fit
• Mountain Biking UK
• Cycling Plus
• Bike of the Year 2024

Buyer’s guide to internal gear hubs | Everything you need to know

What is an internal gear hub, how do they work and who makes them?

Russell Burton

Paul Norman

An internal gear hub provides multiple gears on a bicycle in an enclosed unit housed within the rear hub.

Almost all bikes with gears now feature a derailleur system. But for a long time, internal gear hubs – also known as ‘hub gears’ – were the preferred gear-shifting mechanism.

You can still buy a variety of bikes with internal gear hubs, but they’re most commonly seen on bikes designed for urban riding.

Here, the ability to shift when stationary and the low maintenance requirements offer an attractive advantage over other types of drivetrain .

Gear hubs also work well with electric bikes , with some gear hubs offering completely automatic transmissions.

Although two- and three-speed gear hubs are still available, newer systems offer seven, eight or 14 gears – there’s even a continuously variable option.

The gear spread on modern internal gear hubs can be as great as, or greater than, most derailleur systems.

In this in-depth buyer’s guide, we’ll outline everything you need to know about internal gear hubs, their advantages and disadvantages, how they compare to derailleur drivetrains, and the options available.

What is an internal gear hub and how do they work?

Internal gear hubs provide between two and 14 gear ratios via a set of gears housed within a bicycle’s rear hub.

The hub is usually turned via a singlespeed drivetrain, with a single rear sprocket transferring power to the hub.

Exactly how an internal gear hub works differs from model to model but, generally speaking, inside the hub are sets of planetary gears, like those used in many automatic car gearboxes.

The gear wheels are engaged constantly, with shifting locking and unlocking clutches to change which gears are active, while those not in use idle within the hub.

In older systems, shifting was initiated via a cable from the handlebars that ran to the centre of the hub.

Some gear hubs still use this mechanism, but there are now also electronic and wireless shift internal gear hubs available.

In some cases, the gear hub also incorporates a coaster brake, where the brake is operated by backpedalling, or a drum brake (Shimano’s variant is called a roller brake). Other gear hubs have standard mounts for a disc brake rotor , while some use rim brakes for stopping power.

What are the benefits of an internal gear hub

The major benefit of an internal gear hub is that its gears are… internal.

That means they’re protected from the weather, resulting in low maintenance requirements.

The Rohloff gear hub, for example, only needs an oil change every year to keep it working in tip-top condition, according to the brand.

Shimano says its hubs should be serviced every two years after an initial 12-month service.

You will still need to maintain the external part of the drivetrain. However, as these are usually singlespeed, they are generally easier to clean and maintain than a derailleur drivetrain.

The straight chainline of the ‘singlespeed’ external portion of the drivetrain means there’s less wear on the chain and fewer frictional losses.

Manufacturers can also use wider, heavier-duty drivetrain components, which are generally more durable.

That simple chainline also means internal gear hubs can be paired with a belt drive . These can provide almost maintenance-free performance and tend to be cleaner than a chain, too.

Another benefit of an internal gear hub is that the planetary gears are always engaged.

This means shifts can be very smooth and less routine adjustment is required. You can also change gears while not pedalling, which is helpful, particularly when stopped at traffic lights.

Internal gear hubs can transmit high loads, so they’re a good option to use with an electric bike motor .

Gear changes are typically faster than with a derailleur system too, and if an electronic hub gear is used, automatic gear changes on electric bikes are even possible.

What are the drawbacks of an internal gear hub?

The main drawback of an internal gear hub is its weight.

Even the simplest systems start at around 1kg. More complex systems with more than three speeds can exceed 2kg.

The exception is the Classified two-speed hub gear system at around 500g (more on this system below). Classified claims it’s only around 20g heavier than a typical double chainset and front derailleur it’s designed to replace.

Internal gear hubs can also be expensive. A Rohloff 14-speed gear hub is priced at over £1,000/$1,500 and a Classified system costs around £2,000/$2,500.

Shimano’s gear hubs are a lot cheaper, costing around £250/$250.

Although that’s not a lot of cash in cycling component terms, for the hybrid bikes where they’re typically used, it’s a significant chunk of additional cost for a new bike.

Hubs from the likes of Sturmey-Archer can be had for as little as £70, but these are generally quite heavy.

Whereas, with a derailleur system, it’s comparatively easy to replace your cassette with one that gives you a different set of gear ratios, with a gear hub you’re stuck with the range the hub provides. However, you can make the total range easier or harder by swapping the freewheel and/or chainrings.

If something does go wrong, maintenance is more complex and likely to be more expensive than a derailleur system.

Fixing a puncture is also, generally, a lot more difficult than with a derailleur. Most hubs are held in place with 15mm nuts, which means you’ll need to take a spanner with you on a ride.

Are hub gears reliable?

Because they’re weatherproofed, hub gears are usually highly reliable.

The orbital gears inside them are engaged continuously and so, unlike derailleur sprockets, not subject to wear and load on the teeth from shifting.

A major cause of problems with derailleur systems is the derailleur hanger getting out of alignment, resulting in mis-shifts and noisy running.

Misalignment of the gears themselves in a hub is unlikely to occur – it’s only external parts, such as shift cables, that might get damaged or corroded and need replacement. This can affect shift quality.

Derailleurs are also prone to damage. Without dangly bits, gear hubs are better protected.

Internal gear hub vs derailleur

The main differentiators between gear hubs and derailleur systems are the additional weight and price of the gear hub.

However, gear hubs can also be less efficient than well-maintained derailleur systems because there’s more friction in the mechanism.

Rohloff claims its efficiency is comparable to a derailleur system though, at between 95 and 98.5 per cent. It points out that derailleur gears’ efficiency is highly dependent on component wear and the degree of cross-chaining.

For some riders, the ease of altering the available gear ratios and spread a derailleur system provides with a change of cassette may be an attraction. However, it’s not likely to be a significant factor for the majority of bikes in which gear hubs are used.

High-end derailleur systems offer more gear ratios than a gear hub, although it should be noted that with a double chainset there’s usually some overlap of ratios.

Note more gear ratios doesn’t necessarily equate to a greater range. You may, theoretically, have more options in a given range, but not necessarily more range.

A gear hub, on the other hand, is usually designed to provide a more even progression of gears, even if the total number is lower.

The highest-spec gear hubs offer as much or more range between lowest and highest ratios as a derailleur system too, although the range from lower-priced systems may be smaller.

Internal gear hub vs gearbox

Another option for internal gearing for bicycles is a gearbox. This uses similar tech to a gear hub, but places the gears at the crankset end of the drivetrain.

It has similar advantages of reliability and ability to shift while stationary, but the same drawbacks of weight and price relative to a derailleur system. The central placement does assist with weight distribution though.

Pinion is the best-known gearbox manufacturer.

Its gearboxes are made in Germany and provide up to 18 speeds. They require a bicycle frame designed specifically for the gearbox though and, like the Rohloff gear hub, are expensive.

Which bikes use an internal gear hub?

Internal gear hubs are an option offered on some new bikes in place of a derailleur.

These are typically urban hybrids, where weatherproofing, high reliability and low maintenance are advantages.

Other bikes where you may find an internal gear hub include cargo bikes, for similar reasons, and electric hybrid bikes . In both these cases, the high torque throughput and ease of shifting are advantages.

You can find niche examples of pretty much every type of bike available with an internal gear hub. They crop up on some touring bikes , gravel bikes and mountain bikes , for example.

Can I convert my bike to use an internal gear hub?

Yes, you can convert most bikes to use an internal gear hub, because gear hubs are available to fit standard hub spacings.

Bear in mind that, in addition to the hub itself, you’re going to need it built up into a wheel. You could reuse your existing wheel rims, but you’ll need new spokes, because a gear hub is typically wider than a derailleur or singlespeed hub.

Wheel building is an art and, unless you have experience, best left to an expert, which means more expense. You can find ready-built wheels incorporating a gear hub, but they’re not commonly available.

Bikes designed around an internal gear hub will include some way of tensioning the chain – usually horizontal dropouts that enable you to slide the wheel back and forth, tensioning the chain.

If your bike was designed for a derailleur system, you will almost certainly need a chain tensioner.

Most derailleur bikes use vertical dropouts, which offer no fore or aft movement. The derailleur, instead, tensions the chain.

A chain tensioner is, usually, a sprung pulley that tensions the lower run of the chain. These are typically inexpensive and work well.

You’re also going to have to ditch the front derailleur if you have multiple chainrings.

In addition, shifters for derailleurs tend to use different cable-pull ratios compared to internal gear hubs, so you’ll need new shifters too.

If you want a gear hub with a roller or coaster brake incorporated, you’ll need to anchor the action arm to your frame.

In some cases, the frame needs to be designed specifically to work with this – a standard frame may not be built strongly enough to handle the extra load from the brake arm.

Who makes internal gear hubs?

The main brands selling traditional multi-speed hub gears are Rohloff from Germany, with its expensive 14-speed hub; Shimano with a range of options that have between three and eight speeds, and the ever-trusty Sturmey-Archer, which produces hubs with between three and eight gears.

Most hub gears are aimed at leisure riders and commuters, but a newer system is the Classified hub. It’s lightweight, wireless electronic and offers just two gears, but it’s a performance option designed to work as a replacement for a double chainset and front derailleur.

Rohloff internal gear hubs explained

German brand Rohloff makes only one product – its near-legendary Speedhub.

The Speedhub packs in 14 gears with a 526 per cent gear range.

There’s a huge range of variants, which can be used with disc or rim brakes.

There are electronic and mechanical shifting options available, as well as versions compatible with fat bikes. Mountain bikers are also catered for with Boost-spaced axles.

Rohloff vaunts its hub’s low maintenance – an annual oil change is the only service requirement, according to the brand.

It says it also works well with electric bikes and offers shifting in 180 milliseconds.

It is, however, very expensive, costing in excess of £1,000/$1,500. It's also heavy, weighing close to 2kg depending on the variant.

Shimano internal gear hubs explained

Shimano offers three hub gear systems.

Its flagship product is the Alfine range, which is available in 8- and 11-speed variants.

The 11-speed Alfine hub has a 409 per cent gear range and can be used on electric and non-electric bikes.

It weighs just under 1.7kg and accepts a disc brake rotor.

The 8-speed variant has a similar weight and a 307 per cent gear range.

As well as mechanical-shift versions, the Alfine hubs are available in Di2 electronic shifting incarnations.

The Shimano Nexus gear hub is available with three, seven or eight speeds.

The maximum gear range is 307 per cent for the eight-speed hub, for which there are mechanical shifting and Di2 options.

Weights are around 1.6kg, but the seven-speed hub’s steel casing means that that gear hub weighs around 2kg. The three-speed variant has mechanical shifting only and weighs under 1kg.

Shimano also has a hub gear system as part of its STEPS ebike drivetrains.

This is five-speed and is available in electronic and mechanical shift versions. Versions with roller or coaster brakes are also available.

The electronic shift versions can be set up to work with the motor’s electronics to provide automatic shifting.

Sturmey-Archer internal gear hubs explained

If you’ve poked around in your grandparents' shed, at least in the UK, you may have found a rusty steel bike with a Sturmey-Archer rear hub gear.

The brand has been around for over 100 years, with its principal product being its three-speed hub gear, operated by a weedy-looking shift lever bolted to the handlebars.

Almost any bike with more than one gear that was made in the UK used to have a Sturmey-Archer hub, right up until the French invasion with their new-fangled derailleurs in the 1950s (a French word and an invention that actually pre-dated the hub gear).

Times move on and Sturmey-Archer now makes hub gears with up to eight speeds and coloured anodised options. It also still offers combination gear/drum brake hubs.

Sturmey-Archer hubs use the same planetary gear system as Rohloff and Shimano. Weights for Sturmey-Archer hubs start at around 1kg.

Classified internal gear hubs

A relative newcomer to the internal gear hub market is Belgian brand Classified.

Whereas the other internal gear hubs above are intended to replace your rear derailleur and cassette, the Classified system replaces your front derailleur and double chainrings.

It is designed to work with a rear derailleur and Classified’s own 11- or 12-speed cassette.

A Classified hub gives you just two gear ratios, equivalent to the two offered by a double chainset, with riders able to choose the equivalent ratios to those provided by a standard, semi-compact, compact or sub-compact double chainset, dependent on the size of single chainring chosen.

The Classified system is claimed to be faster than a front derailleur, plus the gears are engaged constantly, so you can shift under load and there’s no risk of a mis-shift or slipped chain when changing ratios.

It’s actuated by a wireless connection between an electronic shift lever and the hub. You can also run a satellite shifter, enabling the Classified hub to work with mechanical groupsets.

Classified claims a similar weight to a standard 2x11 or 2x12 derailleur system, eliminating one of the disadvantages of other hub gear systems.

It is now also available for mountain bikes.

Enviolo continuously variable gear hubs

Enviolo gear hubs work a little differently from other systems, providing continuously variable gearing.

Rather than gear cogs, balls inside the hub transmit power. The axis of rotation of the balls is changed either manually via a twist shift or automatically. This enables stepless variation of the gear ratio.

With the automatic system, you specify your desired cadence and the hub automatically adjusts the gearing to keep it at the defined level. When you stop, it will automatically down-shift for an easier start.

It can be hooked up to an ebike system’s controller to provide a single point of control. Enviolo gears offer between 256 and 380 per cent gear range.

There are disc, rim and roller brake options, and models designed for electric cargo bikes that can handle loads of up to 100Nm. The weight of an Enviolo hub starts at around 2kg and heads up to 2.4kg-plus for the heavy-duty options.

Share this article

• Terms & Conditions
• Subscribe to our magazines
• Manage preferences

Internal Gear Hub Vs Derailleur: My Pros and Cons List

By: Author Zachary Friedman

Posted on Last updated: January 21, 2024

Categories Bicycle Touring and Bikepacking , Bikes and Cycling

Home » Bikes and Cycling » Bicycle Touring and Bikepacking » Internal Gear Hub Vs Derailleur: My Pros and Cons List

An internal gear hub is a type of bicycle gear system where the gears and shifting mechanisms are enclosed within the rear hub. These systems have anywhere from 2-14 gears. Internal gear hubs are becoming increasingly popular. Particularly on touring bikes and commuter bikes. After some extensive research and testing on Rohloff and Shimano hubs, I put together this internal gear hub vs derailleur pros and cons list. I’ll compare maintenance, reliability, longevity, cost, efficiency, compatibility, convenience, and much more. I’ll also explain what internal gear hubs are and how they work.

I upgraded my touring bike to a Rohloff internal gear hub about 6 years ago and don’t ever plan on switching back. I do still run derailleurs on my other bikes. In this guide, I’ll share my experience. Hopefully, this guide helps you decide whether or not an internal hub is the right choice for your riding style.

Key Takeaways

Internal gear hubs are reliable, low maintenance, durable, and long-lasting. They allow you to shift while stopped and shift multiple gears at once. They are sealed to prevent contamination from dirt and debris. Derailleurs are more efficient, cheaper, lighter, faster, and easier to maintain and repair. They also have more gears and more gear range. It’s also easier to find replacement parts for derailleur drivetrains. An internal gear hub is the better choice for urban commuters, bicycle tourists, all-weather riders, e-bike riders, and those who value a low-maintenance drivetrain. Derailleurs are better for mountain bikers, those on a tight budget, performance-oriented cyclists, competitive riders, and weight-conscious riders.

What is an Internal Gear Hub?

The internal gear hub, also called hub gear or IGH, is a system used to change a bicycle’s gear ratio. Most internal gear hubs have between 2 and 14 different gear ratios. The internal gears are housed and sealed inside the rear hub. The internal gear hub is an alternative to a derailleur.

Inside the hub, there is a series of planetary gears or epicyclic gears. When you shift, there are clutches that slide or rotate into new positions. As these components reposition, they engage different gears, changing the gear ratio. All of the gear wheels are always spinning but different gears are engaged.

Most IGH bikes have a single speed drivetrain setup with a single rear sprocket and a single chainring. All of the gearing is in the hub. Hybrid drivetrains are also available with a derailleur and IGH paired together.

Most internal gear hubs use a shifter cable to change gears. Some modern models feature electronic shifting. There are also automatic shifting models.

Internal gear hubs can be paired with pretty much any type of bike including gravel bikes, road bikes, folding bikes, urban bikes, e-bikes, cargo bikes, recumbent bikes, and more.

Most internal gear hub bikes use disc brakes. Some models use a drum brake or a coaster brake. Rim brakes are also an option.

Image: “Belt-drive internal-geared multi-speed rear hub”, by AndrewDressel , licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0

Internal Gear Hub Pros

• Less maintenance- This is probably the main reason people make the switch to internal gear hubs. The only maintenance you need to do is to change the oil in the hub every 5000 km or so and keep the chain at the right tension. This isn’t much work. Derailleurs, on the other hand, require frequent cleaning, adjustments to limit screws, and more frequent replacements of chains and cassettes.
• Greater reliability- With an internal gear hub, all moving parts are sealed inside the unit. You don’t have to worry about water, sand, dirt, or salt entering the hub and causing damage. They are weatherproof. The gears inside are continuously engaged so you don’t have to worry about wear and tear from shifting. You don’t have to worry about a derailleur getting knocked out of alignment or broken or just needing adjustment. The gears in an IGH always stay aligned. Only external parts such as the shifter cable, chain, and cogs suffer from corrosion and wear and tear. People routinely get over 100,000 km out of Rohloff Speedhubs. I have heard of Sturmey Archer hubs from the 50s still in use. Even lower cost Shimano Nexus or Alfine hubs can go 15,000 km before they need to be replaced. For the average cyclist, a quality internal gear hub lasts a lifetime if properly maintained.
• Chains last longer- With an internal gear hub, the chain stays on the same gears at all times. It doesn’t move between gears. The chain always runs in a straight line as well. This puts less wear and tear on the chain, making it last much longer. People have been known to get 20,000 km out of a chain. When using a derailleur, the chain flexes each time you change gears. It also runs at an angle much of the time. This puts a lot of strain on the chain, causing wear. You’ll have to replace it much more often.
• You can shift while stopped- This doesn’t seem like a big deal but it’s actually a game-changer. Have you ever stopped your bike while in too high of gear? It’s difficult to get going and you can’t downshift until you’re moving. Starting in too high of gear also puts unnecessary strain on your knees. Internal gear hubs allow you to shift while you’re not pedaling. This comes in handy when riding in stop-and-go traffic in the city. It also makes climbing steep hills a lot easier. You can shift anytime.
• You can shift multiple gears at once- If you hit a sudden sandy patch, you can shift down 7 speeds without worry. If you do this on a derailleur bike, you could drop your chain.
• The rear wheel is stronger- This is true for two reasons. First, with an internal gear hub, all of the spokes are spaced symmetrically and all of the spokes are at the same angle on both sides of the wheel. This increases strength. Second, the hub is larger. This means spokes are shorter. This creates a stronger wheel, even if it has fewer spokes. With a stronger wheel, you can carry more weight without having to worry about broken spokes or the wheel going out of true. This is a major benefit for bicycle tourists who often carry most of their gear loaded on a rack over the rear wheel.
• Internal gear hubs are excellent for bicycle touring or commuting- Many expedition bicycle tourists choose to ride with an IGH for more peace of mind. Commuters like them for the same reason. There is simply less to worry about in terms of maintenance and repairs. You get to spend more time riding.
• Internal gear hubs are compatible with belt drives- Belt drives offer many benefits. They are quiet, clean, lightweight, and incredibly durable. They also last a long time. Many cyclists get over 30,000 km out of a belt drive before it needs to be replaced. As an added bonus, belts don’t require any lube or degreaser like chains.
• You can ride in wet, muddy, or snowy conditions without worry- Because the hub is completely sealed, you don’t need to worry as much about water or debris getting caught in the gears, derailleur, and chain. This allows you to ride in poor weather. You can also get away without washing your drivetrain as frequently. This is great for winter cycling, cycling in the rain, or riding through sand. 
• No rear derailleur to worry about- This seems obvious but not having a derailleur has a number of benefits. Derailleurs are a particularly fragile part of the bike because they stick out and sit so close to the ground. It’s easy to catch it on a branch or knock it against a rock and cause damage. Particularly while transporting the bike or riding off-road. At the least, you’ll have to re-adjust it. Worst case, you destroy it and need to find a replacement. Derailleurs can also destroy your rear wheel if you knock them into the spokes. You don’t have to worry about any of this with an internal gear hub because the whole shifting mechanism is housed in the hub. The wheel and spokes protect it.
• You don’t need to know anything about bikes to use an internal gear hub- Because the maintenance interval is so long, you can just ride the bike and have the bike shop take care of everything else. This is perfect for someone who doesn’t want to do any of their own maintenance. You don’t need to learn how to adjust a derailleur or install a new chain. Just ride your bike and enjoy it.
• You can use coaster brakes- Some internal gear hubs integrate coaster brakes into the hub. This can simplify further simplify your bike and further reduces maintenance.
• Internal gear hubs can transmit heavy loads- This makes them great for pairing with electric bikes and cargo bikes. They can handle the additional stress.
• More consistent steps between gears- The difference between gears is about the same throughout the entire range. An internal gear hub may have a consistent change of 12% between gears. A comparable derailleur system could have a 10% change between some gears and a 20% change between some gears. Having consistent steps between gears makes it easier to maintain your cadence.
• Faster gear changes- Internal gear hubs can shift faster derailleurs. Electronic shifters can also be used. Fully automatic shifting is also possible.
• Internal gear hubs are more technologically advanced and beautifully engineered- An incredible amount of engineering and precision goes into making an internal gear hub. Some of these things are real works of art. You can feel the quality and precision engineering while pedaling.

Internal Gear Hub Cons

• More expensive- Quality internal gear hubs cost a lot of money. For example, a Rohloff Speedhub costs as much as an entire mid-range bike at around $1600. A Shimano Nexus or Alfine costs as much as an entire mid-range derailleur groupset at around $200-$400. The hub alone could cost as much as the rest of the bike.  Also, you also have to factor in the cost of installation, shifters, a rear cog, etc. There are cheaper options. You can get a 3 speed Sturmey Archer hub for less than $100.
• Less efficient- Internal gear hubs are slightly less mechanically efficient than derailleurs. I have read figures ranging from 2% to 10% less efficient depending on the model. This loss of efficiency happens because the power that you produce by pedaling must pass through multiple gears. You lose a bit of energy each time the power transfers from one gear to another. Exactly how efficient the system is depends on the gear you’re using. The direct drive gear in the middle is the most efficient because there is no drag from the pulley. Derailleurs also lose energy when power transfers between gears, but the loss is less. If you factor in efficiency loss from a poorly adjusted derailleur or worn parts, the difference is minimal.
• Internal gear hubs are heavier- Due to the added gears and complexity, internal gear hubs weigh more than derailleur setups. Basic models with 3 gears weigh around 1 kg. More complex models weigh as much as 2 kg. That is significantly heavier than traditional derailleur systems. All of this added weight goes into your wheel. The wheel is the worst place to add weight because it is rotating mass. The extra weight slows down acceleration. It also takes more energy to maintain your speed. If you want the lightest possible bike, stick with derailleurs.
• Fewer gears- The internal gear hub with the most gears is the 14 speed Rohloff Speedhub. Most modern derailleur bikes have 27 or more speeds. This means the internal gear hub will have a larger jump between gears. More basic internal gear hubs have 3, 8, or 11 speeds. With fewer gears, you may not be able to find the ideal speed for the terrain you’re riding, making the bike less efficient. The difference isn’t as big as you might expect. Most derailleurs have some duplicate gears so the actual number of unique gears is lower. In IGH hubs, all gears are unique.
• Less gear range- Gear range is the difference between the lowest and highest gears. The internal gear hub with the widest amount of gear range is the 14 speed Rohloff Speedhub with a gear range of 526%. This is comparable to modern 27 speed derailleur systems. These have 500-600% of gear range. Lower-end internal gear hubs with 3-8 speeds have a gear range of around 200-400% depending on brand and quality. With a lower gear range, you may not be able to climb as steep of hills or achieve the same top speed that you are used to with your derailleur setup. 
• Finding replacement parts is difficult in developing countries- If you’re touring somewhere remote like Central Asia or West Africa, finding a new rear sprocket or oil for your internal gear hub will be nearly impossible. Bike shops in developing countries just don’t stock the parts. Some countries don’t even import any internal gear hubs. If you plan to tour someplace remote like this, you have to pack all of the spares that you may need with you. The only other option is to rely on the mail or fly home to buy what you need. The good news is that parts availability should improve as globalization increases.
• Internal gear hubs are slower- Because of the loss of efficiency and added weight, you just can’t go as fast with an IGH. Acceleration is slower and maintaining speed takes more energy. That’s probably the reason that professional racers still use derailleurs.
• Rear flat tires are harder to fix- This depends on the brand of internal gear hub that you use. Most IGHs make removing the rear wheel a bit tricky. Mostly because you have to re-adjust the tension of the chain when you reinstall the wheel. It can be a bit tedious and time-consuming to get the chain tensioner in the correct position, especially the first couple of times that you do it. It’s a good idea to use tires with some kind of puncture protection or even go tubeless so you don’t have to deal with repairing flats as often. 
• User servicing is pretty much impossible- Most internal gear hubs cannot be repaired by the owner or even a bike shop. The internal components are complex. If there is a failure in the hub, you must ship it back to the manufacturer to be repaired. Some companies, like Shimano, recommend that you just replace the internals. This can be a problem if you’re touring somewhere remote where you can’t send and receive packages due to the reliability of the postal service or customs charges. If your IGH breaks, you have no hope of repairing it yourself. It’s far too complex. There are hundreds of small parts inside. Of course, you can do all of the standard maintenance yourself such as changing the hub oil and replacing the sprocket and chain.
• Internal gear hubs are noisy- This depends on the brand. Some cyclists complain that certain gears are loud and annoying.
• You can’t switch out wheels- Some riders like to have multiple wheelsets to switch between for riding different terrain. For example, maybe you have a 700c wheelset with road tires and a 650b wheelset with off-road tires. In a matter of minutes, you can swap them out and ride all sorts of different terrain. This setup is cheaper and takes up less space than having two complete bikes. This isn’t really possible with an internal gear hub. First of all, removing the rear wheel is a bit of a job with some hubs. You’ll have to readjust the chain tension. You’d also have to have a separate internal gear hub for each wheel. This would be very expensive and kind of pointless. If money is no object, you could do it but you might as well just buy another bike at that point.
• You can’t shift an internal gear hub under load- To shift, you must reduce power slightly. Shifting under load can cause damage to the gears.
• Internal gear hubs may increase the likelihood of bike theft- I don’t know if this is statistically true or not. What I do know is that installing a nice internal gear hub makes your bike worth a lot more money. Thieves are more likely to steal expensive bikes.
• Some frames aren’t compatible with internal gear hubs- You need the proper hub spacing and braze-ons to mount the chain tensioner. Some frames can be slightly altered to work and some just aren’t compatible.
• Traction and braking can suffer- The added weight of an internal gear hub system on the rear wheel is unsprung. This can have an adverse effect on some bikes traction and braking.
• You can’t change the gear range or gear ratios- You’re stuck with the gearing that the hub comes with. It is possible to swap out the rear cog or chainring to make the total range easier or harder. With a derailleur, you can simply install a new cassette to change the gear range and ratios.
• You have to adjust chain tension- This is a problem that is unique to internal gear hubs. You must keep the chain at the proper tension so the hub shifts properly. Depending on the quality of the hub, it may require frequent adjustment. You’ll also have to readjust the tension every time you remove the rear wheel. This can be a hassle but usually isn’t that big of a deal.

Derailleur Pros

• Easy to repair- Derailleur drivetrains are simple and easy to fix with basic bicycle tools. Any bike mechanic anywhere in the world knows how to adjust and repair derailleurs. The exposed derailleur is easily accessible. If you’re touring, you can carry all of the required tools to repair or overhaul a derailleur in your toolkit. Knowing you can fix any problem that may arise gives you peace of mind. Internal gear hubs are too complicated to repair. 
• Derailleurs are more efficient- In optimal conditions, derailleurs have slightly greater mechanical efficiency than internal gear hubs. Depending on the models and conditions, derailleurs are about 2-10% more efficient. This is because the system uses fewer gears to transfer energy from the pedals to the rear wheel. You lose less energy in the power transfer. This greater efficiency allows you to ride longer distances without tiring out. You’ll burn less energy as you ride. Having said this, the efficiency advantage can be lost with poorly maintained or adjusted parts. For example, dirt and grime create resistance and prevent the system from working at its peak performance. Worn-out cassettes and chains have the same effect. The efficiency also depends on which gears you’re using. If you’re cross chaining, the efficiency will drop significantly.
• Derailleur setups are cheaper- You can buy a whole new mid-range groupset for a couple of hundred dollars. Even low-end internal gear hubs cost significantly more than this. If you’re on a tight budget, it’s best to stick to derailleurs.
• Derailleurs have more gears- Most modern derailleur setups have 27-30 speeds. Most modern bikes come with a 9-12 speed cassette. The benefit of having more gears is the fact that there is less difference between each gear. In other words, the size of the steps between gears is smaller. You can always find the optimal gear for the terrain and speed that you are riding. With an internal gear hub, you may have to choose between a gear that is slightly too high and one that is slightly too low. It’s not optimal and can cost you efficiency. 
• Derailleurs have a greater gear range- Most modern derailleurs have a wide gear range of around 450%-600%. A greater gear range gives you a higher top gear and lower low gear. You can travel faster on the flats and climb steeper hills more easily with more gear range. Most internal gear hubs have a much smaller gear range of 200%-400%. The best IGH, the Rohloff, has a gear range of 526%. This is comparable to any modern derailleur drivetrain. 
• Finding replacement parts is easy- Every bike shop carries derailleurs, cassettes, chains, shifters, etc. You can simply buy what you need and get back on the road. You will want to consider the type of derailleur drivetrain you’re using. 9, 10, and 11 speed parts are hard to find in some places. 8 speed gear is common. If your IGH fails, you may have to ship it and wait for the manufacturer to repair it before you get back on the road. Most bike shops won’t even touch them, outside of general maintenance. With this being said, it doesn’t stop many bicycle tourists from riding internal gear hubs through developing countries on expedition tours around the world.  
• Derailleurs are lighter- Derailleurs weigh less and keep less weight on the wheels. You’ll be able to accelerate faster and with less effort. If you’re the kind of rider that measures every gram that you put on your bike, stick with a lighter derailleur setup.
• Derailleurs are faster- Because of the added efficiency and lighter weight, you can cover more ground more quickly with a derailleur. They also improve acceleration. This is probably the reason that competitive racers still ride with derailleurs.
• Easier to repair rear flats- Most bikes have a quick release that allows you to remove and reinstall the rear wheel in a matter of seconds so you can easily repair flats. Internal gear hub bikes are a bit trickier. They require that you readjust the chain tension each time you put the rear wheel back on. This takes a bit of time and is kind of a hassle.
• User servicing is easy- Anyone can learn how to maintain and adjust derailleur gears. With a few tools, you can easily install new chains and cassettes. This saves money on bike shop visits and gives a peace of mind knowing that you can repair and replace your own gear without assistance. Maintaining an internal gear hub is pretty straightforward as well but there is a bit more of a learning curve. Some repairs you just can’t do at home.
• You can switch out wheels- Some riders like to keep two sets of wheels for the same bike. For example, maybe one set is fitted with slick tires for road riding and the other set is fitted with knobbies for riding mountain bike trails. You can easily swap them out in a matter of minutes and have a completely different bike. If you use disk brakes and your frame allows, you can even run two different wheel sizes. For example, you could run 700c on the street and 650b for the trail. This really isn’t possible with an internal gear hub. I suppose you could buy two but at that point, why not just buy another bike?
• Derailleurs are quieter- Some riders complain about the noise that their internal gear hub makes in certain gears. This varies from hub to hub. For the most part, derailleurs are fairly quiet.
• You can shift under load- Even though it’s not ideal, it is possible to shift a derailleur under load. This is helpful when you’re climbing a steep hill and need to keep your momentum to make it to the top. With an IGH, you have to apply less power to the pedal when you shift. If you stop, you may not be able to get going again on a steep climb.
• All frames are compatible with derailleurs- These are standard parts that are made to work with pretty much any bike frame.
• Derailleurs are the standard- Even though internal gear hubs have been around for decades, derailleurs are still the most popular option.

Derailleur Cons

• More maintenance- In order to keep the drivetrain running smooth and efficiently, you have to clean, degrease, and lube your chain and gears every couple hundred miles. You also have to adjust shifter cables and derailleurs frequently to keep the bike shifting smoothly. You must replace chains and cassettes when they wear out. Internal gear hubs require much less frequent maintenance. Just clean them once in a while and change the oil every 5000 km and forget about it.
• Less reliable- Derailleurs are a bit finicky. If you bump it against something, you’ll need to readjust it. Because the system is open, dirt, sand, water, and grime can get on the chain and gears and cause wear and a number of other problems. Rear derailleurs are easy to damage because they stick out and sit so close to the ground. You don’t have to worry about these things with an internal gear hub.
• Chains don’t last as long with derailleurs- Every time you shift a gear, your chain flexes to the side. Much of the time, the chain runs at an angle. Chains are constantly jumping around from gear to gear. All of these put additional stress on the chain that makes it wear and eventually fail. Chains last anywhere from 500-5000 miles or more depending on the conditions where you ride and how you maintain them. With internal gear hubs, the chain always runs straight and stays on the same cogs at all times. There is a single chainring and a single cog. It wouldn’t be unusual to get over 10,000 miles from a chain.
• You can’t shift while stopped- Imagine you stop at a stoplight while in a high gear. When you want to get going again, you struggle to pedal because you didn’t downshift before you stopped. You can’t downshift until you get moving. This problem is particularly annoying in stop-and-go city traffic you may encounter while commuting. You can’t perform gear changes while stopped. With an internal gear hub, you can downshift while stopped so you’re in an easy gear when you’re ready to get going again.
• You can’t shift through multiple gears at once- If you hit a sudden sandy spot and need to gear way down, you have to shift gears one at a time with a derailleur. If you try to shift through several gears at one time, you’ll probably drop your chain. With an internal gear hub, you can shift through as many gears as you like all at once.
• The rear wheel is weaker- Spokes are longer and generally spaced unevenly on the rear hub of a derailleur bike. This creates a weaker wheel. This is particularly problematic for bicycle tourists or heavy riders. You could suffer more broken spokes and the wheel can go out of true more easily. There is a solution to this problem. Use a wheel with more spokes. Most bicycle tourists use 36 spoke wheels as opposed to 32 spoke. This adds enough strength to carry heavy loads on the back without too much worry.
• Derailleurs aren’t ideal for riding in wet, sandy, snowy, or dusty environments- You must keep the gears and derailleur clean so they are able to operate efficiently. Sometimes that means daily scrubbing and oiling your gears and chain. Having sand or other debris on your chain and gears causes additional wear that makes the parts age faster. Internal geared hubs are sealed closed. This keeps out any contaminants and helps the drivetrain last longer.
• Derailleurs are not compatible with belt drives- If you want the benefits of a belt drive, you’ll have to switch to an internal gear hub or go single speed. Belt drives are cleaner, quieter, last longer, and best of all, require much less maintenance. No more degreasing and scrubbing chains when you switch to a belt.
• You need to be very careful with the rear derailleur- It’s a fragile part that sticks out near the ground. It’s easy to bash it against a tree stump or rock. When boxing the bike for transport , you must remove it so it doesn’t get damaged. Derailleurs can easily go out of adjustment. They are just a hassle overall. Internal gear hubs are indexed in the hub and don’t really need adjusting after they are set up.
• You need to know a bit about bikes- When riding a bike with a derailleur, it’s nice to at least know how to properly clean, lube, and adjust the drivetrain. This is an easy job that anyone can do but it does take a bit of know-how. If you know absolutely nothing about bikes and don’t have any desire to learn, you’ll need to visit your local bike shop once in a while to have your derailleur serviced.
• Derailleurs are less technologically advanced- If you’re the kind of person that likes to have the top of the line, most advanced gear, you may prefer internal gear hubs over derailleurs. The engineering is pretty spectacular.

More Cycling Pros and Cons Analyses from Where the Road Forks

• 700c Vs 26 Inch Wheels
• 1X Vs 2X Drivetrain
• Disc Brakes Vs Rim Brakes
• Tube Vs Tubeless Bicycle Tires
• Chain Drive Vs Belt Drive
• Carbon Fiber Vs Aluminum Wheels

Types of Internal Gear Hubs  

Hub gears come in 2, 3, 5, 7, 8, 9, 11, 12, and 14 speed options. Generally, the more gears, the more complex the hub will be and the more critical maintenance becomes. 2 and 3 speed hubs are pretty simple. They keep going with minimal maintenance. For touring, the more gears the better. For commuting, you may be better off with a simpler hub with fewer gears. 

You also have the choice of the type of brakes you want to use. You can choose from disc brakes, rim brakes, drum brakes, and coaster brakes.

Many hubs come in disc and rim brake versions. The disc brake version comes with standard mounts for a disc brake rotor. They are compatible with mechanical and hydraulic brakes. Hub brakes are less common. You’ll have to decide which type of brakes you’re going to use when buying the hub. 

The number of spokes is another consideration. If you’re touring and plan to carry a heavy load, you’ll want more spokes to support the extra weight. Most internal gear hubs use either 32 or 36 spokes. 

As far as pricing goes, basic 3-speed hub gears start around $100. Premium hubs that are suitable for touring start around $1600. Mid-range options start around $450. 

Popular Internal Gear Hub Options

When shopping for an internal gear hub, you have quite a few options to choose from. You’ll want to consider the number of gears you need, the type of brakes you plan to use, the number of spokes, pricing, quality, performance, etc.

There are several different brands to choose from. The three main companies offering internal gear hubs include Rohloff, Shimano, and Sturmey Archer. Below, I’ll outline a few of the more popular internal gear hubs available.

Designed and manufactured in Germany, the Rohloff hub is known for its longevity, solid build, low maintenance requirements, and amazing engineering. This is the king of internal gear hubs. The Speedhub comes with 14 speeds with an incredible 526% gear range with a uniform 13.6% difference between gears through the range.

To keep this hub going, all you need to do is change the oil once every 5000 km or once per year. This is about a 20 minute job. Rohloff hubs commonly last 100,000 km without failing.

Rohloff offers a number of variations on their 14-speed hub. It is available in disc and rim brake versions, 32 and 36 spoke versions, as thru axle and quick release axle versions.  Mechanical and electronic shifting options are available. The hubs also come in a range of widths for different types of bikes including fat bikes and boost-spacing for mountain bikes.

Rohloff hubs are compatible with electric bikes. They offer fast shifting in just 180 miliseconds.

The main drawback of these hubs is the cost. They cost around $1500. They are also heavy at around 2kg.

Shimano offers three different internal gear hub systems.

Alfine is Shimano’s higher-end line of internal gear hubs. They work great for urban commuting and light touring.

Alfine hubs come in 8 and 11-speed versions. The 11 speed version offers 409% of gear range. The 8 speed Alfine offers a gear range of 308%. The 11 speed version weighs 1.7 kg.

These hubs are compatible with electric bikes and regular bikes. They are compatible with belt drive as well. These hubs use a bolt-on axle rather than a quick release.  They have mounts for disc brake rotors. There is also a Di2 electronic shifting version.

Unfortunately, the gear intervals are pretty uneven. The jump from first to second gear is 30%. From there, the interval between gears ranges from 13-14%. 

For a great budget/value internal gear hub option, consider the Shimano Alfine 8-Speed Internal Geared Disk Break Hub.

Shimano also offers a lower-end internally geared hub called the Nexus. The Shimano Nexus hub is in 3, 7, or 8 speed versions. It is also available with a coaster brake option. 

The 8 speed version has a gear range of 307% and weighs around 1.6kg. It is available in mechanical and Di2 electronic shifting versions.

The 7 speed version weighs around 2kg thanks to its steel case. The 3 speed version weighs around 1kg. It is only available in mechanical shifting.

Shimano also offers a hub gear system for ebikes. This is one of its STEPS ebike drivetrain options. This is a 5 speed IGH that is available in electronic and mechanical shifting versions. It is also available with roller or coaster brakes. The electronic shifting version is capable of automatic shifting

Sturmey Archer

Sturmey Archer was founded in Nottingham, England in 1902. These guys have been in the internal gear hub business for over 100 years. In 2000, the Sturmey Archer sold to the Taiwanese cycling company Sun Race and production moved to Taiwan.

They are famous for their 3-speed hub which is known for its longevity and low maintenance. This is a great choice for folding bikes and city bikes.  These hubs were used on bikes in the UK for almost 50 years.

These days, Sturmey Archer makes hubs with 3-8 speeds. They also offer hubs with drum brakes. Sturmey Archer hubs weigh around 1kg.

The Belgian brand Classified recently introduced a unique hybrid drivetrain. This system replaces the front derailleur and chainrings with a 2 speed internal gear hub. The system works with a rear derailleur and Classified’s 11 or 12 speed cassette.

This system is faster than a front derailleur. It eliminates mis-shifts and slipped chains. It also allows you to shift under load. It also has a similar weight to 2×11 and 2×12 groupsets.

This is a wireless electronic shift system. It is also compatible with mechanical groupsets. It is available for road and mountain bikes.

Maintaining Internal Gear Hubs and Derailleurs

One of the main advantages that internal gear hubs have over derailleurs is that they require less frequent maintenance. Once your internal gear hub is set up, you can ride for thousands of miles without touching it.

Derailleurs, on the other hand, require a bit of regular maintenance to keep them running smoothly. The reason is that they’re a bit more exposed to the elements because the gear system is open.

One job that is the same regardless of which system you choose is cleaning. You’ll have to degrease and lube your chain every 200-500 miles depending on the conditions.

In this section, I’ll outline what you’ll need to do to keep your internal gear hub or derailleur running smoothly.  

Internal Gear Hub Maintenance

Generally, the frequency of maintenance depends on the complexity of the hub. The more gears there are, the more critical maintenance becomes. Internal gear hub maintenance involves replacing the lubricant inside of the hub.

There are grease-based and oil-based internal gear hubs. Generally, hubs with 3-8 gears are grease-based. Hubs with more than 8 gears are usually oil-based.

Simple grease-based hubs typically need to be cleaned out and re-greased every 12-24 months depending on how frequently they’re used and the conditions they’re used in. In some cases, cheap 3-speed hubs are pretty much considered disposable. You just ride it until it fails then replace it. They often last many years without any maintenance. These basic hubs may last 50,000 Km without any service. 

Higher-end oil-based internal gear hubs like the Rohloff and Shimano Alfine require regular oil changes to keep them running smoothly. This oil change involves draining the old oil and replacing it with new. On most models, it is recommended that you change the oil every 5,000 km or once per year. Many riders change the oil far less frequently.

Another hub maintenance task you’ll need to do is replace the seals once in a while so the oil doesn’t leak. Some internal gear hubs also use chain tensioners. These need to be adjusted when you’re installing your hub. You may need to re-tension the chain when you remove your rear wheel to fix a flat.

As the chain and sprocket wear out, they will need to be replaced as well.  Keep in mind that these parts last much longer than they do on bikes with derailleurs. Oftentimes IGH chains and rear sprockets last 2-4 times longer.

Derailleur Maintenance

Derailleur maintenance is simpler but more frequent. To keep your bike shifting smoothly, you’ll have to periodically readjust your derailleurs as the shift cable and chain wear. If you bump your derailleur, you may need to re-adjust it. This is a simple but somewhat tedious job. Some derailleurs are a bit touchy. All you’ll need is an Allen key or screwdriver to adjust most derailleurs. 

In addition, you’ll also need to replace your chain and cassette as they wear out. A derailleur drivetrain requires new chains and rear cogs more frequently than an internal gear hub due to the extra wear from moving around on the gears. In some conditions, you might only get 500-1000 miles out of a chain. Cassettes need to be replaced every 2-3 chains or 3000-5000 miles. 

Which Types of Bikes Work Best with Internal Gear Hubs?

Internal gear hubs work really well on urban bikes that are used for commuting as well as touring bikes. They are perfect for these types of bikes because weatherproofing, high reliability, and low maintenance are important for the types of riding these bikes are used for.

They also work well on electric bikes and cargo bikes. This is because internal gear hubs can handle the high torque throughput. They also allow you to shift while stopped.

You can find internal gear hubs on all types of bikes including folding bikes, adventure bikes, fat bikes, and more. The only real exception is high-performance road bikes. Internal gear hubs are too heavy and inefficient. Derailleurs are still the best option for competitive road riders.

Can I Convert a Derailleur Bike to Use an Internal Gear Hub?

Yes. In most cases, it is possible to switch from a derailleur to an internal gear hub drivetrain. Gear hubs fit standard hub spacing. Make sure you choose an IGH with the proper spacing for your hub. Standard rear hub spacing is 125-135mm.

To install an internal gear hub, you have to build the hub into a wheel. You could use your existing rim or get a new rim. You will need new spokes because internal gear hubs are usually wider and larger in diameter. Your existing spokes will be too long.

Wheel building is somewhat complicated. For most riders, it’s best to have a professional build and true the wheel. It is possible to do it yourself if you have the proper tools and know-how. It’s also possible to buy a prebuilt wheel with an internal gear hub installed.

When you use an internal gear hub, you need some way of tensioning the chain. On derailleur bikes, the derailleur tensions the chain. You won’t have a derailleur when you install an IGH.

Many bikes that are designed to be used with an IGH have horizontal dropouts that allow you to slide the wheel in and out to adjust the tension.

If your bike was designed for derailleurs, it will most likely have vertical dropouts. In this case, you’ll need to install a chain tensioner.

A chain tensioner is a pulley with a spring that tensions the lower run of the chain. You can attach the chain tensioner to the derailleur hanger.

You will also need new shifters. This is because the cable pull ratios are different for internal gear hubs than they are for derailleurs.

Overall, this conversion is pretty easy. The only complicated part is building a new wheel with an internal gear hub.

My Experience

In the past, I always used derailleurs simply because they were cheaper. That’s also what I grew up using. I know how to adjust and repair them. They’re simple. I was hesitant to try out an internal gear hub.

About 6 years ago, I switched to an internal gear hub on one of my touring bikes. For me, it was a game changer. The biggest advantage for me is having the ability to change gears while stopped. I never have to worry about downshifting before stopping. I can simply brake and then shift. The low maintenance is another major advantage. My IGH is paired with a belt drive. With this setup, I can ride for thousands of miles without having to perform any maintenance on the drivetrain other than washing it off.

I still don’t run internal gear hubs on all of my bikes. In fact, most of my bikes have derailleurs. This is due to cost.

Other Drivetrain Options

Other than derailleurs and internal gear hubs, a couple of other options exist.

CVT hubs, or Continuously Variable Transmission hubs, are a type of gearbox that provides a seamless and smooth transition through an infinite range of effective gearing ratios without distinct gear steps. In other words, instead of shifting from one gear to the next, the system seamlessly transitions.

Unlike internal gear hubs, CVT hubs offer cyclists the ability to fine-tune their pedaling effort in real time. You can always ride at the optimal cadence. This enhances ride comfort and efficiency.

This is achieved by using balls to transfer power rather than cogs. The balls’ axis of rotation is changed with a twist shift or electronically. An electronic system can shift automatically.

With an electronic shift system, you tell the system your desired cadence and the hub automatically adjusts so you can maintain that cadence, regardless of the terrain. When you stop, the system automatically shifts down so you can start pedaling more easily. You never have to think about shifting.

These innovative hubs offer many of the same benefits of internal gear hubs including low maintenance, gear changes while stopped, and no gear skipping. They also operate almost silently. They are also very user friendly.

Of course, there are some drawbacks. They are heavier and less efficient than internal gear hubs. The gear range is also pretty small.

CVTs are commonly used for industrial and automotive applications. They only recently became available for bicycles.

The main brand offering CVT hubs is Enviolo.

A bicycle gearbox is a type of gear shifting system that is situated at the bicycle’s bottom bracket, right where the pedals attach. These use a similar technology to internal-gear hubs.

These gearboxes offer similar advantages to internal-gear hubs. The shifting components protected within the bicycle frame. Gearboxes are low maintenance, durable, and reliable. The positioning in the center of the bike also helps with balance.

However, integrating such a system necessitates a frame specially designed to accommodate the gearbox. Gearboxes are also expensive.

Pinion is the most well-known manufacturer of gearboxes. They offer up to 18 speeds and are made in Germany.

A Third Option: Hybrid Gearing

Some drivetrains combine an internal gear hub with a front or rear derailleur. This unconventional setup is known as hybrid gearing. This system offers some of the benefits of both internal gear hubs and derailleurs . It can also provide a wider gear range and closer gear ratio spacing. Hybrid drives are common on folding bikes and recumbent bikes.

The most common style of hybrid gearing uses a 3-speed internal gear hub with 2 sprockets attached for a total of 6 speeds. A rear derailleur allows you to shift between the sprockets. Usually, the rear sprocket gears fall halfway between the gears in the hub. This allows for half-step gearing so the difference between gears isn’t so great. This setup usually requires a chain tensioner. 

This system is useful on bikes that can’t accept a front derailleur, like many folding bikes. For example, the 6 speed Brompton folding bike uses a 3 speed Sturmey Archer IGH with 2 rear sprockets. The SRAM Dual Drive, which is also common on folding bikes, uses a similar setup.

Dual drives are common on some types of recumbent bikes as well because they allow the rider to downshift while stopped. This makes it much easier to get started riding again after making a stop. It is hard to get going in a high gear with a recumbent bike because you can’t use your body weight to begin pedaling. 

Internal gear hubs can also be combined with double or triple chainrings and a front derailleur. Sometimes both a front and rear derailleur are used. This widens your gear range but increases the weight and complexity of your drivetrain considerably. 

A Bit of History About the Internal Gear Hub and Derailleur

Surprisingly, the invention of the internal gear hub actually came before the derailleur. The IGH is not a new technology. The first patent for a hub gear was issued to Seward Thomas Johnson, an American machinist, in 1895. In 1905, French bicyclist Paul de Vivie, invented the rear derailleur. The first internal gear hub and derailleur system both came equipped with 2 speeds.

Even though the invention of the derailleur came 10 years after the internal gear hub, the technology progressed much faster. The simpler derailleur system allowed for more gears and a wider gear range with the technology available at the time. Internal gear hubs topped out at 3 gears for decades. This is how derailleurs grew to dominate the cycling market originally.

Now, things are changing. In the past couple of decades, internal gear hub technology has progressed significantly. In terms of gear range and performance, they are catching up to the best derailleurs. Internal gear hubs also include a number of other benefits over derailleurs that I outline in this article. These days, the decision is harder than ever to make. Here’s my list of the pros and cons of internal gear hubs vs derailleurs.

Final Thoughts

As of now, internal gear hubs are incredibly reliable but do lack a bit in the performance department. They are a good option for riders with a higher budget and those who don’t race.

As the technology advances, I imagine internal gear hubs will continue to grow in popularity. In the future, I imagine almost all of the drawbacks can be overcome with enough research and development. Gear range will improve. More gears will be added. Efficiency and performance will increase.

Having said this, standard derailleur systems will always have their place in cycling. It’s a much simpler technology that is completely user-serviceable and more efficient. Derailleurs have been the standard for decades.

Cost is also a major factor. Only the most avid cyclists want to spend thousands of dollars on their bikes. Most casual riders are better off sticking with derailleurs at this time.

What are your thoughts on the internal gear hub vs derailleur debate? Share your experience in the comments below! 

More from Where The Road Forks

• The Best Folding Bike for Touring: My Pros and Cons List
• 17 Types of Bicycle Handlebars
• The Ideal Bikepacking or Bicycle Touring Tool Kit and Spare Parts List
• Tandem Bike Touring: Pros and Cons
• Pros and Cons of E-Bikes
• How to Choose a Touring Bike
• Electronic Vs Mechanical Shifting: Pros and Cons

Zachary Friedman is an accomplished travel writer and professional blogger. Since 2011, he has traveled to 66 countries and 6 continents. He founded ‘Where The Road Forks’ in 2017 to provide readers with information and insights based on his travel and outdoor recreation experience and expertise. Zachary is also an avid cyclist and hiker. Living as a digital nomad, Zachary balances his professional life with his passions for hiking, camping, cycling, and worldwide exploration. For a deeper dive into his journey and background, visit the About page. For inquiries and collaborations, please reach out through the Contact page. You can also follow him on Facebook.

Sharing is caring!

Sign me up for the newsletter!

Alexander F.

Sunday 2nd of June 2024

Thank you for this! So refreshing to read something that wasn't written by a robot! Very concise and informative! I think I am going to stick with the ole' hop and skip setup after all. I got the hub lust from Lancaster PA a few days ago. But I did notice the ever so slight rumble when you are not in the direct drive (middle) gear. The small inefficiency gets in my head haha!

Zachary Friedman

Tuesday 16th of July 2024

I also don't like the inefficiency. It feels like I'm wasting energy, even though it's minimal.

Duncan Harrop

Saturday 20th of May 2023

An excellent article that shows the advantages of hubs in relation to deraillier for the non performance rider. With hubs I would always reccomend gates CDX drive . Do you have any thoughts on the new enviolo in comparison to alfine or rohloff?

wheretheroadforks

Tuesday 23rd of May 2023

I haven't had the chance to try the enviolo. It looks like an interesting design though.

Monday 9th of January 2023

Got fed up with cleaning the winter bike with derailleurs and converted it to 11 speed Shimano Alfine gear hub with Di2 drop bar changers retaining the rim brakes. Delighted with the results, will never go back, true a bit heavy but then again not a racer.

Tuesday 10th of January 2023

Nice! An internal gear hub is perfect for a winter bike.

Wednesday 26th of October 2022

Nice article. Two notes:

1.) Under the cons of derailleurs, you really need to add the fact that the exposed chain will get your pants and shoes dirty. If you wear dress pants and shoes to work, that's a real problem. All my city and cargo bikes have IGHs (including two NuVinci hubs) and either Gates belt drives or fully-enclosed chains (with Hebie Chaingliders).

2) You say that it's impossible to do your own internal repairs/maintenance on IGHs, and that's true of many of them. However, the Sturmey-Archer 3- and 5-speeds (both classic and modern) aren't bad to work on at all. Definitely more complicated than a derailleur, but most home mechanics can strip down an AW hub with no problems. Just be careful of the little pawl springs, which like to launch themselves all over the room!

Friday 28th of October 2022

Good point about IGHs keeping your pants cleaner. That's important for commuters.

Friday 27th of May 2022

I agree, it is an exellent summary. Thanks!

Just boot an Diamant with shimano alfine 11. Want to chance tire, or have to chance because of a puncture, to a more puncture proof one. But after reading you article I began to think who has the knowledge to just take off the wheels and put them rightly on again:)

Anyway, it has to be done and I lives in Berlin, Germany, so ther should be some options in this bicycle city.

All the best

Monday 30th of May 2022

There is a bit of a learning curve. I'm sure you won't have any trouble finding someone in Berlin who can help. Best of luck!

• Find Us Store
• My Account My Account
• Subtotal : $ 0.00 Checkout Cart
• Industry Nine 3
• Show More Brands
• Show Fewer Brands
• $20 to $49.99 3
• $50 to $124.99 11
• $125 to $199.99 3
• $200 to $499.99 5

STORE HOURS: TUES-FRI: 10AM - 5PM | SAT: 10AM - 4PM | SUN, MON: CLOSED |

• Account Account
• Stores Stores
• Subtotal : $ 0.00 Checkout Cart
• Industry Nine 5
• $20 to $49.99 1
• $50 to $124.99 2
• $125 to $199.99 1
• $200 to $499.99 9
• $500 to $749.99 7
• Bicycling Catalog

5 Best Internal Gear Hubs for Your Bike in 2022

Looking for the best internal gear hubs? Then you know the importance of internally geared hubs and the fact that they are a refreshing change to derailleurs – a component that bikers have used for a long time but is now due for retirement.

Here’s a complete guide on how to find and shift to quality internally geared hubs effortlessly.

Internal Geared Hub Reviews

Below is a comprehensive guide on the best internal gear hubs, complete with our reviews of the top picks on the market, as well as the criteria we used to test the different options so that you too can end up with an ideal option.

We also answer some of your most frequently asked questions about internally geared hubs and we’ve left no stone unturned to bring you this analysis.

1. SHIMANO SG-3C41 Universal Hub Kit

First up, we have one of the best Shimano internal gear hubs. We all know that Shimano is one of the best manufacturers of cycling components and equipment. So, it’s no surprise that they’ve created a high-quality universal hub kit with a clean, simple, and straightforward design that’s easy to work with.

One of the first things we noticed when working with it is just how easy it is to install. This is despite the fact that it requires some assembly upon delivery before you can ride it.

Note that this is a very straightforward model that doesn’t require a lot of maintenance and it has a very wide gear range of 186%. This means that you’re getting a lot of bang for your buck. This internal hear hub will transform your bicycle into an incredible machine that’s super easy to ride and maneuver.

In addition to making your bike feel new, this universal hub kit is super durable and long-lasting. Overall, this is one of the best internally geared hubs for comfortable and smooth cycling.

• Makes for a much smoother ride
• Operates noiselessly
• Easy to install
• Offers great value for money
• It has a wide 186% gear range
• There’s some assembly required

2. SHIMANO SG-3D55 Universal Hub Kit Nexus

Next on our list of the best internal gear hubs, we have another great universal hub kit from Shimano with all the features that you’d expect.

This reliable hub offers a wide shifting range of 186%. This is pretty decent and will enable you to handle all types of different terrain, except for off-road, mountain, and steep terrain.

Otherwise, this universal hub kit won’t let you down, as it sports a handy lightweight aluminum shell that won’t add any weight or drag to your bicycle. This ensures a comfortable ride and also included in the kit is a non-turn washer as well as a 19-tooth cog.

Because you don’t have to purchase these components separately, we consider this to be one of the best deals that you’ll have access to in a long time. We highly recommend this high-quality product as it’s one of the most reliable gear hubs that we’ve come across.

• Features a 19-tooth cog
• Constructed from a lightweight aluminum alloy hub shell
• Comes with a non-turn washer
• Has a gear range of 186%
• Offers reliable shifting
• It’s not compatible with off-road or steep terrain applications
• Doesn’t come with cables and shifters

3. Sturmey Archer S80 8 SPD Internal Drum Brake 36H

Internal gear hubs reviews often feature this internal gear hub from Sturmey Archer due to how affordable and effective it is.

It offers a wide range of gears and enables you as the rider to handle all types of different terrain without sacrificing performance.

You’ll find that it’s easy to shift gears with this 8-speed hub. This allows you to effortlessly tackle gentle slopes and steep hills with equal ease and without sacrificing your preferred pedaling speed. As we mentioned, this is a relatively cost-effective product considering what the overall kit comes with.

This includes all the cables and shifters that you’ll need to install and use it throughout its lifespan. Most competitors can’t promise the same, and in terms of performance, we haven’t found a better system to work with.

• Features a shifter and cable
• It’s cost-effective
• It’s great for navigating hilly terrain
• It has an impressive gear ration of 325%
• Hard to install

4. SHIMANO XT HB-M8110 Centerlock Disc Brake Hub

Next, we have one of the internal gear bicycle hubs for mountain bikers, as it’s a rigid and durable model. It features such relevant features as a lock riding mounting system that makes it easy to install. It’s beginner-friendly too.

The body is constructed from durable aluminum while the overall hub itself is a lightweight product that you won’t even feel after you’ve installed it on your bicycle. It comes with a cup and cone bearing that’s known to infuse your bike with way more strength than regular sealed cartridge industrial bearings.

That’s because it has better load distribution ability which translates to better weight balance. It also comes with a quick engagement system that Shimano is known for. This means that you get 18/16 notches and two pawls sets that help to improve acceleration and engagement.

Taken together, these features make this one of the best for mountain and enduro biking.

• Offers quick engagement
• Super rigid
• Comes with cup and cone bearing
• Makes for proper weight distribution
• Lock ring mounting system
• It can be noisy when your bicycle is at a certain gear

5. SHIMANO Alfine 11-Speed Internal Geared Disc Brake Hub

Our internally geared hub review wouldn’t be complete without the Shimano Alfine 11-speed internal geared bike disc brake hub.

The trusted Shimano once again has knocked it out of the park with an option that comes in two sizes, mainly 32H and 36H. This means that it’s compatible with a wide range of different bikes. It’s also designed to ensure high drive efficiency due to the durable sprockets.

What’s truly impressive about this gear hub is the fact that it has an impressively wide gear range of 409%. This means that it empowers your bicycle to handle different types of slopes and terrain. Not only that but with regular oil changes you can really get more from this oil-lubricated hub.

It doesn’t take much to maintain it and yet it’s something that will keep the hub and your bike operating smoothly for longer. Overall, it provides a reliable riding experience.

• Offers smooth and quiet shifting
• It has a gear ratio of 408%
• Features an oil-lubrication system
• Durable sprockets
• High drive efficiency
• It’s pricey

How to Get the Best Internal Gear Hubs

The key to finding the best internal gear hubs is to know what to look for. To this end, we present to you some of the most important features to look out for when searching for an internal gear hub.

An internal hub is installed inside the system. This means it doesn’t suffer from exposure to the elements. Therefore, it won’t suffer from the same amount of corrosion and wear and tear as external components.

That’s why you want a high-quality hub that’s made from durable materials so that it can keep the internal components safe.

Not everyone is a DIY nut, but this doesn’t mean that you can’t appreciate the inner workings of a fat bike internal gear hub.

There are plenty of models that are easy to install so you don’t have to worry about being machine savvy. In most cases, you won’t even need to hire a professional to install it.

Lubrication

Before you buy an internal gear hub, check the manufacturer’s handbook and manual to see how often you have to lubricate it.

You’ll be able to tell if the components require grease or oil changes on a frequent basis.

The gear ratio refers to the internal hub’s capacity to handle different types of terrain. For the most part, hubs with high gear ratios are able to handle uneven terrains, hilly areas, and mountains as well.

However, if you mainly use your bike for the daily commute , then you can easily make do with an internal gear hub that has a 186% gear ratio.

Maintenance

You want a low-maintenance internal gear hub because this is one of the calling cards of a good quality model.

But, different models have varying levels of maintenance requirements. For instance, an internal gear hub for a mountain bike might require regular oil changes compared to another.

Before you buy an internal gear hub, check how much maintenance it requires. Make sure that you’re prepared to keep up with the amount of maintenance needed.

The last thing you want is a gear hub that you won’t be able to keep up with.

Benefits of Internal Shifting for Bikes

In case, you’re wondering, here are some of the benefits that come with upgrading to an internal gearing system:

Quicker Shifting

The internal gear hub doesn’t have the same design as a derailleur-based drivetrain because you’re able to select your preferred gear quickly and effectively.

You don’t need to pedal your bike in order to engage and shift gears while experiencing delayed speed due to a steep hell or after stopping at a stop sign.

Lower Maintenance

Shifting adjustments aren’t a requirement for Nuvinci/Neviolo, Pinion, and Rohloff systems.

But, systems like Shimano Alfine do require some adjustment although not as regularly as something like a derailleur system, for example.

Most of the drivetrain’s components are in the gearbox or the hub itself. This means that it’s fully protected from the elements and is less likely to suffer the same damage as other external systems.

This means that you get to enjoy the same level of shifting performance regardless of what the weather conditions are.

Long Lasting

Thanks to the latest improvements in internal gear hub design, drivetrain components don’t require regular replacement.

Of course, the external chain belt and sprockets will require some upkeep due to regular wear and tear.

But you can bet that the gearbox or gear hub will last for well over hundreds of thousands of miles.

No Chain Falloff

Bikes with internal hubs that are designed to handle gearboxes or gear hubs usually come with a tension chain belt method. This includes an eccentric bottom bracket, adjustable dropouts, and horizontal dropouts.

It makes it impossible for derailment or slack to happen on the system.

Even if your bicycle has a second-hand retrofit or you have a full-suspension bike with a belt tensioner then you’re unlikely to lose your bike’s chain or belt.

Internal shifting has been known to reduce the noise generated by your bike when you’re driving it.

That’s all thanks to the internal shifting system which enables you to utilize a belt drive system that reduces noise that would come from hitting the frame or bouncing around.

Belt-equipped bikes are usually whispered quiet because then you don’t have to worry about noise coming from the chain.

How Do Internal Gear Hubs Work?

Planetary gearing is the process utilized to operate an internal gear hub. Planetary gearing operates on one or multiple planet gears or even a sun gear. This article was mainly focused on how to operate an internal gear hub specifically.

Three-speed hubs typically feature a single sun gear that is attached at the center of the axle. The sun gear revolves around 3 or 4 gears which are referred to as planets with a gear ring surrounding them. The gear rings look more like teeth than anything else.

As you can see, the internal gear operates according to a very unique and organized system. This is because the planet gears must be attached to the revolving planet cage.

We’re not generalizing when it comes to gear ratio because internal gear hubs have a different ratio according to their unique system.

An internal gear hub typically comes with three gear parts:

Low gear means the gear ring is driven by the sprocket, while the planet cage is responsible for working the hub, allowing the wheel to turn multiple times.

Middle Gear

Internally, the middle gear sports a sprocket that’s responsible for operating the hub. The internal gears in the middle are always spinning according to the sprocket’s motion.

High gear means that the sprocket is responsible for driving the planet cage and the hub is, in turn, driven by the annulus. This increases the gear function by 33% on average per 4 revolutions.

It’s important to ensure that your compound planet gears are timed appropriately when upgrading a hub. If not, the hub can be exposed to damage and will fail to operate as expected.

That’s basically how an internal gear hub works. If you’re working with three or more planetary stages, it’s important to refer to it internally.

Internal Gear Hubs vs. Derailleurs

Internally geared hubs are becoming popular because they’re so easy to maintain and they come with long-lasting chains when compared to derailleurs.

Derailleurs are also susceptible to damage and they don’t allow you to shift multiple gears at the same time.

Of course, there’s more to gear hubs vs derailleurs than this. But at the end of the day, the option you pick will depend largely on your personal preferences based on the research you gather.

Now that you know what the best internal gear hubs are, it’s time to give you our top pick. It’s the SHIMANO SG-3C41 Universal Hub Kit which we like because it’s easy to install, it has a decent gear range, and it makes for a smooth, noiseless ride.

If you have any questions about this selection or you need specific recommendations, you can comment below.

Shailen Vandeyar

A proud Indian origin Kiwi who loves to plant trees and play with my pet bunny when not out cycling through the best routes, reviewing the latest gear, and sharing tips on everything biking.

Recent Posts

Diamondback Atroz Review of Top 3 Models in 2022

Diamondback is one of the most popular mountain bike brands today. The company produces a wide range of high-quality and durable mountain bike models for young and adults as well as male and female...

What Causes Muscle Soreness After Exercise or Cycling?

The first thing to understand about muscle soreness is that it may affect anybody, whether you're new to exercising or have just increased the intensity or duration of your workout. The additional...

Trek MultiTrack 720 – 16.5in Frame – 700c Wheel – BubbleYum – PGH#19363

$ 455.00

The Trek MultiTrack bikes are a versatile bunch, and this 720 is no exception. We took this reliable frame and rebuilt it with a modern SRAM drivetrain, using gripshifters and a wide gear range for ease of use. Like all our bikes, this one has been fully tuned, checked by 2 professional mechanics, and has received new replacement parts and upgrades so that all you have to do is saddle up and ride.

Out of stock

Description

Would Fit Humans Sized : 5’3″ – 5’5″

Would be Great for: Year-round commuting, weekend rides, town-life

Age/Era:  90s

Frame Material:  Cro-moly Steel

# of Speeds:  27 (3×9)

Unique Features: Fun pink accents! SRAM 3×9 grip shifters and drivetrain, WTB “Speed She” saddle

All sales are final. No test rides are available at this time. When our shop re-opens to the public following the coronavirus outbreak, we’ll be happy to discuss options for fit customization, upgrades, and accessories. 

Related products

$35 Kids Bikes! – See them at the Shop!

$50 Kids Bikes! – See them at the Shop!

Portlandgearhub.

Follow on Instagram

Enviolo Trekking gear hub

Prices incl. VAT plus shipping costs

• Item number: 8836-001
• Manufacturer Part Number: CVP-TR-32-DC-OE

Number of spokes:

Brake type:

The Enviolo Trekking gear hub is the all-rounder among the continuously variable hub gears . As the name suggests, the hub feels most at home in trekking e-bikes and bicycles. With it, you can effortlessly master long excursions along varied paths. But also in city traffic, the gearstick convinces with a pleasant gear range and unique operability.

Features of the Enviolo Trekking hub gears

• stepless shifting hub
• 380% gear range
• Extremely robust & low-maintenance
• for e-bikes up to 85 Nm torque
• up to 180 kg total weight
• suitable for automatic shifting

simple & versatile - the Enviolo Trekking hub

There is hardly a hub gear that is as versatile in use and at the same time as easy to operate as the Enviolo Trekking gear. Unique is of course the stepless adjustment of the gear ratio and thus a completely new shifting feeling. You need to worry less about choosing the right gear and have more time to concentrate on the road. Even shifting under load is no challenge for the trekking hub. You can also flexibly choose  between a manual shifting unit with twist shifter or the all-round AUTOMATiQ shifting interface with Bluetooth control unit for automatic shifting. The virtually maintenance-free design is just the icing on the cake of the Enviolo Trekking gear hub.

Note : Do you have any questions about the Enviolo Trekking gear hub? Then please contact our customer service.

The fields marked with * are required.

I have read the data protection information .

TechBullion

The ultimate guide to bike wheel hubs: everything you need to know.

When it comes to cycling, the devil is in the details. While many riders focus on the frame, tires, and gears, one of the most critical components often overlooked is the bike wheel hub. The hub is the heart of the wheel, and choosing the right one can significantly impact your ride’s performance, comfort, and durability. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll delve into everything you need to know about bike wheel hubs .

Understanding Bike Wheel Hubs

A bike wheel hub is the central part of the wheel that allows it to spin freely. It consists of an axle, bearings, and a hub shell. The hub connects to the bike frame via the axle and to the rim through the spokes. There are two primary types of hubs: front and rear, each serving different functions and having specific features.

Front Hubs:  The front hub is simpler in design and functionality. It primarily allows the front wheel to rotate smoothly and is usually equipped with quick-release skewers or thru-axles for easy installation and removal.

Rear Hubs:  The rear hub is more complex as it integrates the drivetrain. It houses the freehub or freewheel mechanism, which allows the bike to coast without the pedals moving. Rear hubs also come with various gear configurations, including single-speed, multi-speed, and internally geared hubs .

Types of Bike Wheel Hubs

• Standard Hubs: Standard hubs are the most common type, found on most road, mountain, and hybrid bikes. They come with either quick-release skewers or thru-axles and are compatible with a wide range of bikes and riding styles.
• Thru-Axle Hubs: Thru-axle hubs provide increased stiffness and strength compared to quick-release hubs. They are commonly used on mountain bikes and high-performance road bikes. The thru-axle passes through the hub and attaches to the frame, providing a more secure connection.
• Sealed Bearing Hubs: Sealed bearing hubs offer better protection against dirt, water, and debris, leading to a longer lifespan and reduced maintenance. They are ideal for riders who frequently ride in harsh conditions or prefer low-maintenance components.
• Cup and Cone Hubs: Cup and cone hubs use loose ball bearings that sit in cups inside the hub shell, adjusted with cone nuts. They are adjustable and repairable, making them a popular choice among traditionalists and those who enjoy hands-on maintenance.
• Disc Brake Hubs: Disc brake hubs are designed to accommodate disc brakes, providing superior stopping power, especially in wet or muddy conditions. They come in both quick-release and thru-axle versions and are essential for mountain bikes and cyclocross bikes.

Choosing the Right Bike Wheel Hub

Selecting the right hub for your bike depends on several factors, including your riding style, bike type, and personal preferences. Here are some key considerations:

• Compatibility: Ensure the hub is compatible with your bike’s frame and fork. Check the axle type, spacing, and brake compatibility.
• Riding Conditions: Consider the conditions you typically ride in. If you ride in wet or muddy environments, sealed bearing hubs or disc brake hubs may be more suitable.
• Maintenance: Think about how much maintenance you are willing to perform. Sealed bearing hubs require less maintenance, while cup and cone hubs allow for more adjustability and repair.
• Weight: Lighter hubs can improve your bike’s performance, especially for road cyclists and racers. However, they may come at a higher cost.
• Durability: If you are a mountain biker or frequently ride on rough terrain, durability is crucial. Thru-axle hubs and sealed bearing hubs are excellent choices for their strength and longevity.

Installation and Maintenance

Proper installation and maintenance of your bike wheel hubs are essential for optimal performance and longevity. Here’s a basic guide:

Installation:

• Front Hub: Insert the axle through the fork dropouts and secure it with a quick-release skewer or thru-axle. Ensure it is tight but not over-torqued.
• Rear Hub: Align the rear hub with the frame dropouts, ensuring the chain is properly seated on the cassette or freewheel. Secure it with a quick-release skewer or thru-axle.

Maintenance:

• Regular Cleaning: Keep your hubs clean by wiping them down after rides, especially in wet or muddy conditions.
• Lubrication: Periodically lubricate the hub bearings to ensure smooth rotation. For sealed bearing hubs, check the manufacturer’s recommendations.
• Adjustment: For cup and cone hubs, regularly check and adjust the bearing tension to prevent play and ensure smooth operation.
• Inspection: Inspect your hubs for signs of wear or damage, such as cracks in the hub shell, loose bearings, or damaged axles. Replace any worn or damaged parts promptly.

Upgrading Your Bike Wheel Hubs

Upgrading your bike wheel hubs can provide significant performance benefits, such as smoother rotation, better durability, and improved braking. Here are some popular upgrade options:

• High-Quality Bearings: Upgrading to high-quality sealed bearings can reduce friction and increase the lifespan of your hubs. Ceramic bearings are a premium option that offers ultra-smooth performance.
• Lightweight Hubs: For road cyclists and racers, lightweight hubs made from materials like titanium or high-grade aluminum can reduce rotational weight and improve acceleration.
• Boost Hubs: Boost hubs have wider spacing (110mm front, 148mm rear) and are designed to increase wheel stiffness and strength. They are commonly used on modern mountain bikes.
• Internally Geared Hubs: For commuters and touring cyclists, internally geared hubs offer a wide range of gears with minimal maintenance. They are fully enclosed, protecting the gears from the elements.
• Custom Hubs: Custom hubs allow you to tailor your wheels to your specific needs and preferences. You can choose the spoke count, lacing pattern, and hub material for a truly personalized ride.

Bike wheel hubs are a crucial component that significantly impacts your bike’s performance, comfort, and reliability. Whether you are a road cyclist, mountain biker, or commuter, understanding the different types of hubs and their features can help you make an informed decision. By choosing the right hub and maintaining it properly, you can enjoy smoother rides, better performance, and longer-lasting wheels.

For a wide selection of high-quality bike wheel hubs, visit Loam Labs USA . Explore our collection and find the perfect hub for your cycling needs. Happy riding!

Trending Stories

Satoshi Nakamoto Introduces Satoshi AI Trading Bot : A Groundbreaking Cryptocurrency Trading Bot

In a landmark announcement that has sent waves through the cryptocurrency community, Satoshi Nakamoto,...

5 Top Cryptocurrency Cloud Mining Platforms in 2024 （Earn passive income from home）

In today’s digital economy, generating passive income through cryptocurrency mining has become increasingly popular,...

The Psychology of Attendance: What Attendance Software Reveals About Employee Behavior

You know how we’re always trying to understand what makes our colleagues tick at...

Billionaire Mai Vu Minh: Perspective on the World Economy

Mai Vu Minh, the Chairman of SATAS Group and SAPA Thale Group, stands as...

AI-Driven Content Creation and Personalization: Revolutionizing Digital Marketing Strategies

The integration of artificial intelligence (AI) into content creation and personalization has significantly transformed...

Best Free YouTube to MP3 Converters: Download Your Favorite Music Easily

In today’s digital age, music lovers have countless options for accessing their favorite tunes....

Top 10 Benefits of Publishing Articles Under Your Byline on News Websites and Blogs

Establishing a strong online presence is crucial in today’s digital age, where information is...

The Role of FinTech in Enhancing Transparency and Accountability in Charitable Giving

Financial Technology, commonly known as FinTech, has transformed various sectors, including the realm of...

Top 5 Crypto to Invest in This July and August: Presenting Artemis as a New Presale Opportunity

Pre-sales of cryptocurrency have emerged as an important part of the business, offering attractive...

BlockDAG’s Decentralised Vision Lures Investors As Presale Hits $60M Mark; Arbitrum & Litecoin Price Surges

Few moments capture the imagination quite like the latest developments in BlockDAG. With its...

Market Trends: Cardano and Shiba Inu’s Comeback, BlockDAG Partners with UFC Champ Alex Pereira as Presale Hits $60M

Shiba Inu and Cardano are drawing significant market attention. Shiba Inu’s price remains strong...

ZEXY Meme Coin: Revolutionizing Crypto with a Social Mission

 ZEXY, a meme coin inspired by the ZoneX NFT collection, has rapidly reached a...

Unleashing the Power of VSA by Kaseya: The Ultimate IT Management Solution

In today’s fast-paced technological landscape, businesses rely heavily on robust IT management to ensure...

AI Transformations in Full-Stack Observability: Pioneering Innovations and Their Impact

Observability, the ability to measure and understand a system’s internal state via external outputs,...

Can You Buy A House With Cryptocurrency?

Cryptocurrency, once a fringe financial concept, has now entered mainstream consciousness. With its rising...

Game world of Meta Force Neo Dao in Web3 format from Lado Okhotnikov

The goal of the game is to mine and process Quantum Ore, obtain Bitforce...

Bitcoin Vista Review 2024: Scam or Legit Trading Platform? – Real Reports!

Bitcoin Vista is a newly developed crypto trading system that has quickly caught the...

40% Price Alert! BlockDAG Team Reveal News Lifts Presale To $60M While Floki & Pepe Price Looks Bullish

The crypto world waits for the most historic moment of this year, BlockDAG gets...

Tech Summit Silicon Valley 2024: Embracing Data-Driven Innovation to Transform Tomorrow

The Tech Summit Silicon Valley 2024, held at the Santa Clara Convention Center on...

Crypto Regulations In The UAE

The cryptocurrency revolution, a digital fintech wave in the world of finance, that started...

Like Us On Facebook

Latest interview.

How this IT Mogul Built his Multi-Million Dollar Business from the Ground Up: Interview with Richard Walker, CEO of York Solutions

Richard Walker is the CEO of York Solutions, a leading IT consulting firm specializing in workforce solutions. With a career spanning over...

Latest Press Release

Ultima Business Solutions Welcomes Jamie Beaumont as New CFO

Ultima Business Solutions, a leading provider of innovative technology solutions, is proud to announce a significant enhancement to its leadership team. Effective...

Pin It on Pinterest

All Categories

Electric Bikes

Wheels & Tyres

Accessories

Clothing & Apparel

Events & Services

All Event Categories

2021 Trek Checkpoint SL 7

Buy safely with bike hub pay.

Your payment is held securely until you receive the goods.

Banhoek Bikes

22 hours ago | 189 views

Frame Material

Checkpoint SL 7 pairs our best carbon gravel frame with high-tech parts picked for performance and incredible ride quality on the toughest and roughest gravel adventures. A lightweight OCLV Carbon frame with gravel-smoothing IsoSpeed, a Shimano grx groupset and extra mounts for gear and accessories give you the comfort and capability you need to tackle your next all-road excursion.

Frame & Fork

500 Series OCLV Carbon, IsoSpeed, tapered head tube, Control Freak internal routing, 3S chain keeper, BB90, rack and fender mounts, flat-mount disc, horizontal sliding dropouts, 142x12

Front Derailleur

Shimano GRX RX820, braze-on, down swing

Rear Derailleur

Shimano GRX RX820, 36T max cog

Shimano GRX RX610, 12-speed

Shimano GRX RX610, 46/30, 170 mm length

Shimano 105 7100, 11-36, 12-speed

Shimano SLX M7100, 12-speed

Shimano RT70, CentreLock, 160 mm

Bontrager Paradigm SL, Tubeless Ready, 24-hole, 21 mm width, Presta valve

Bontrager GR1 Team Issue, Tubeless Ready, Inner Strength casing, aramid bead, 120 tpi, 700x40 mm

Bontrager Elite, 31.8 mm, Blendr-compatible, 7-degree, 80 mm length

Bontrager Elite Gravel, 40 cm width

Bontrager carbon, 27.2 mm, 8 mm offset, 330 mm length

Bontrager Verse Comp, steel rails, 145 mm width

More from Banhoek Bikes

Related ads.

Cover your bike when you’re on the go & save when you’re not.

Dynamic premiums on a R 55 000 bike:

Use the code BIKEHUB when you sign up to get up to R 211.89 cash back.

You’ll get an average month’s premium back after 3 months of insuring your gear.

Santam Switch is a division of Santam. Santam is an authorised FSP (3416), a licensed non-life insurer and controlling company for its group companies.

• Crosscountry
• Rider Notes

2019 NCM Moscow Plus

A 27.5″ aluminum frame hardtail crosscountry e-bike with modest components. Compare the full range

Manufacturer Price

For This Bike

View more similar bikes →

A bike with lower gearing will be easier to ride up steep hills, while a higher top end means it will pedal faster down hills.

Moscow Plus

Similar Bikes

(descending)

Add custom gearing

Price: $1899.00 | Model Year: 2019 A cross country style hard-tail e-mountain bike with 80mm suspension fork, knobby trail tires, and sturdy alloy pedals, includes a trigger throttle up to 20 MPH. Lots of adjustability with the display panel, including speed, the 12-magnet cadence sensor is very responsive, motor inhibitors in both of the levers, large 180mm hydraulic disc rotors in front and rear. A cross country style hard-tail e-mountain bike with 80mm suspension fork, knobby trail tires, and sturdy alloy pedals, includes a trigger throttle up to 20 MPH.

A cross country style hard-tail e-mountain bike with 80mm suspension fork, knobby trail tires, and sturdy alloy pedals, includes a trigger throttle up to 20 MPH

Lots of adjustability with the display panel, including speed, the 12-magnet cadence sensor is very responsive, motor inhibitors in both of the levers, large 180mm hydraulic disc rotors in front and rear

Upgraded suspension fork, hydraulic brakes vs mechanical, better saddle, derailleur, cassette range, battery, and display from the regular Moscow version

The kickstand works decently well but can block the left crank arm when down, 2amp charing is slow for the high capacity battery, some wires stand out vs. being completely internal, not much room to add things on the handlebar

Read Review

Last updated September 3

NCM Moscow Plus Review

•   Home
•   Reviews
•   Brands
•   NCM Reviews
•   NCM Moscow Plus Review

• NCM Reviews
• Class 3 Electric Bike Reviews
• Electric Mountain Bike Reviews
• Hardtail Electric Mountain Bike Reviews
• Hub Motor Electric Bike Reviews
• A cross country style hard-tail e-mountain bike with 80mm suspension fork, knobby trail tires, and sturdy alloy pedals, includes a trigger throttle up to 20 MPH
• Lots of adjustability with the display panel, including speed, the 12-magnet cadence sensor is very responsive, motor inhibitors in both of the levers, large 180mm hydraulic disc rotors in front and rear
• Upgraded suspension fork, hydraulic brakes vs mechanical, better saddle, derailleur, cassette range, battery, and display from the regular Moscow version
• The kickstand works decently well but can block the left crank arm when down, 2amp charing is slow for the high capacity battery, some wires stand out vs. being completely internal, not much room to add things on the handlebar

Video Review

Introduction

Body position:, suggested use:, electric bike class:, learn more about ebike classes, availability:, model year:, bicycle details, total weight:, battery weight:, motor weight:, frame material:, frame sizes:, geometry measurements:, frame types:, frame colors:, frame fork details:, frame rear details:, attachment points:, gearing details:, shifter details:, brake details:, seat post length:, seat post diameter:, tire brand:, wheel sizes:, tire details:, tube details:, accessories:, electronic details, motor brand:, motor type:, learn more about ebike motors, motor nominal output:, motor torque:, battery brand:, battery voltage:, battery amp hours:, battery watt hours:, battery chemistry:, charge time:, estimated min range:, estimated max range:, display type:, display accessories:, drive mode:, written review.

To run the forums, host the website, and travel, I charge a universal service fee for my reviews. This review was sponsored by NCM. My goal is to be transparent and unbiased, this video and written review are not meant to be an endorsement of NCM products.

NCM is a new company to me, but they are using reliable and proven systems in their ebikes, so in someway, there is a nice familiarity to it. Today we are checking out their Moscow Plus, the big brother to the Moscow. The Moscow Plus features a nicer suspension fork, hydraulic brakes, more comfortable saddle, and an upgraded derailleur with more gear ranges. There is also a better battery coupled with a nicer display. Because they share the same frame however, you will find a lot of parallel information in this review if you read the write up on the regular Moscow. So the Moscow Plus here is an aluminum alloy frame hard-tail ebike that comes in 2 sizes. Each size also has tire options as well, so basically there is a 19” frame and a 20.5” frame and you can choose either 27.5” tires, or 29” tires. Today we have the 19” frame with the 27.5” Schwalbe Smart Sam knobby tires. Overall the bike weighs about 56.1lbs, (about 1.4lbs lighter than the regular Moscow) and costs $1,899 USD and $2,399 in CAD. As I mentioned before, it is a bit of a hard-tail setup, so you do get this nice SR SunTour XCM30 spring suspension fork. It has 80mm of travel, larger 30mm stanchions, and includes compression adjust, lockout, and preload adjust. Pretty standard hub spacing in the front, 100mm, and there is a 9mm quick release skewer in the front, but none in the back since this is a hub-drive. I am told that it has a maximum weight capacity of 275.5lbs, which is higher than standard. This might come in handy since the bike does have bottle cage bosses, rack bosses, and even fender provisions, so you could really load it up with accessories and it should handle it very well. I like that there is an adjustable length kickstand included, but it is center mounted. That means that you could have the pedals strike the kickstand when down and reversing, an annoying occurrence sometimes referred to as ‘pedal-lock’. The seat post here is a rigid post, which is normal, but since it is 30.9mm, you could swap that out with a nice suspension seat post to get some more cushion on top of that front suspension fork. Other features include ergonomic Velo grips, Wellgo aluminum alloy platform pedals, and one of my favorites, a slap guard that will protect the bike frame and paint from getting nicked by the chain and scratching the paint.

Driving the Moscow Plus is a 500 watt nominally rated planetary geared hub motor. I love that it is fairly compact given the high power output. Power wise, it can deliver up to 80nm of torque, which is quite high, but it cannot leverage gears the way that a mid-drive could. The upside is that the motor always feels zippy, it doesn’t matter which of the gear combinations you are pedaling with. And, the motor can deliver instant power with the minimalist throttle. Hub motors are a great fit for hardtail mount bikes because there is no rear suspension to interfere with. As you shift gears, there won’t be increased mashing or forces applied to the drivetrain because the motor operates completely independently of the chain and sprockets. Moving the bike is done here with either the throttle or the cadence based pedal assist. Of course, this motor will use more power if you’re constantly starting with the throttle, but that’s a worthwhile trade for someone like myself, who has a knee injury. I love being able to override assist with the throttle at any time. I also love that the throttle is easily disabled by removing a cable in case you need to make the bike legal for other trails or local laws. Mechanically, you have 3 rings in the front (48,28, and 28), but sadly, there is no chain cover to protect your clothing. In the rear you have an upgraded 11-32 tooth setup, so a bit better range than the standard Moscow. All in all, it is a Shimano Acera system, and you also get 8 speeds, trigger shifters, and a couple of display windows that tells you what gear you are in. There is a derailleur guard here too, something I love since it protects the derailleur during shipping, or if the bike takes a spill some day. Stopping the Moscow Plus is a set of hydraulic brakes. This was one of my grips on the regular Moscow, so I am happy to see they are offered here in a set of 180mm rotors for both the front and rear. Another upgrade here on the Plus is motor inhibitors in both brake lines. The regular Moscow only had it on one lever so I am glad it is here as it helps cut power to the motor when stopping.

Powering the NCM Moscow Plus is a high capacity Lithium-ion battery pack, offering 48v 16ah hours of capacity! I would say that’s a nice upgrade from the 48v 13ah of the regular Moscow…that means you can go further or ride at higher speeds. I love that they use a sealed external controller, this allows a lower cost for replacement batteries, and keeps the controller protected from harsh elements. Where as some companies are $800-$1000 range for a new battery, this keeps the NCM battery cost to around $500. Note that whenever you’re operating around or above 20 mph, air resistance is going to cause exponential energy draw and range will be decreased. This pack delivers electricity to the motor, but also the backlit display panel (hold the + icon to turn on backlighting), and even a full sized USB charging port on the top right side. You could use this port to maintain phones, GPS, or music devices as you ride or when parked at home or a camp site. My friends recently took a bikepacking trip using another electric bike, and this sort of charging-on-the-go feature would be really handy. If you’re excited to charge while riding, I recommend using a right-angle USB adapter like this , just to keep the wires tucked in and out of the way while you pedal. The battery pack weighs more than average at 9.2lbs, but the alloy casing is sturdy and most of the weight is kept low and center on the bike frame. I took the pack off when moving the bike to our review location, to reduce load on my car rack. If you live up stairs, removing the battery is a great idea, and for those who need to leave the bike in a cold, hot, or wet locations… being able to protect and charge the battery inside is a great thing. It’s best to maintain the pack above 20% and avoid extreme temperatures. It’s going to take a bit longer to fill this battery because of the higher capacity, and the charger is more basic, offering 2amp output vs. 3amp or 4amp. So expect 6 to 7 hours for a fill recharge if you go all the way down to zero. One quick warning about charging the battery while mounted to the bike, be careful with the left crank arm because it passes directly in front of the plug port on the left and could bend or snag the charging plug and cable.

The display on the Moscow Plus is upgraded, nice and large and easy to read. To begin, just hold the power button on the little control pad near the left grip. It activates the display and you get several readouts including assist level, current speed, and battery capacity. Pressing power one time will activate backlighting on the LCD display and holding the down arrow constantly will activate walk mode (which can be handy if you need to to ascend a ramp, make your way through a walk-only space, or even climb stairs). The display can show different menus if you press the set button, a nice feature to dive in a little more. I like the size and position of the display, you can even angle it forward and back to reduce reflection glare, but it is not removable. For those who plan on commuting, it might be worth strapping your helmet over the display to keep people from noticing or scratching it, and also protecting it from the sun, while parked at racks. Overall, I would still call this display panel and accompanying button pad above average, I love that it can be angled to reduce glare and feel that it looks beautiful and is well sealed against water… but to clean the bike it is recommended to use a damp cloth vs. spraying it. Don’t ever submerge the bike components or spray them hard. Also, consider storing the battery pack away from extreme heat and cold to protect the cells. The only other thing I would mention is that the display is large and center mounted, taking up a lot of valuable surface area on an already crowded handlebar, so it may be difficult to add accessories.

In conclusion, the Moscow Plus was a lot of fun, and as mentioned earlier, is using a lot of nice proven technology that has kept many happy. This is a value priced ebike, so there will be some tradeoffs to consider, so I should make mention of those now… For one, the kickstand is center mounted, so if the kickstand is down and you are reversing the bike, you will encounter pedal lock. I noticed that there is no chain ring cover or guard, so be careful when pedaling with clothing like pants or a dress. The charger is just 2amps, this means charging happens slowly, so matched with that high capacity battery, it could take quite some time. Tradeoffs aside, it is a very well put together bike with a lot of what we have come to know and love about ebikes, and at a price of just $1,899 in the US, will appeal to many customers. I want to thank NCM for the chance to check out the Moscow, and I look forward to reviewing more bikes from this new company.

As always, I welcome questions and feedback in the comment section below. Whether you own a previous version of the bike, have taken a test ride, or are brand new to the space, my goal is to provide an objective and honest resource. You can also join the Other Brands ebike forums and share your own photos, videos, and review updates to help others! Have fun out there, and ride safe :)

• The Moscow blends off-road geometry, suspension, and tires with urban utility because you can add fenders and a rear rack, there are also bottle cage bosses on the top as well
• There are 24 gear combinations to explore here, and that empowers you to climb easier or hit and maintain the top assisted speed, I really appreciate the slap guard on the right chain stay and the steel derailleur guard at the rear which also protects the motor power cable (especially when the bike is being shipped)
• The 500 watt Das-Kit motor is powerful and zippy but completely independent from the the pedal drivetrain, it’s a good choice for a bike with so many gears vs. a mid-motor, it also allows for instant throttle power regardless of which gear you’re in
• One of the advantages of having a front derailleur is that it keeps the chain from bouncing off track, it does usually add more weight and maintenance to the bike however, and if you’re using either of the two smaller chainrings the larger 48 tooth one can snag your pant leg because there is no bash guard plate
• Good weight distribution, the battery is positioned low and center on the frame, it seems well protected and blends in pretty well with the black accents on the fork, handlebar, seat, and chainrings
• Great tires for cross country and street riding, the 27.5″ x 2.25″ size is lightweight and efficient, they steer quickly and Schwalbe products tend to be higher quality, there is also a 29” option as well
• At $1,899 USD and $2,399 in CAD, it is competitively priced and will serve many customers well since it has a throttle, high capacity battery, and suspension
• I’m glad that they chose a trigger throttle vs. twist because it makes the grips more secure and reduces accidental activation, the 12-magnet cadence sensor is also more responsive than 8 or 5 on many other products
• The suspension fork offers compression lockout and preload adjust, this allows it to firm up for smooth riding conditions like city streets, reducing bob and energy loss as you pedal
• You get a flick bell, locking ergonomic grips, and a pair of large sturdy platform pedals that should work well in all sorts of conditions and weather, sometimes these parts are cheaper on value priced ebikes
• I love the high capacity 14v 16ah battery, it even has a USB port on the side to take advantage of it and use it as a power bank, perfect for traveling
• Between the knobby tires and 80mm suspension fork, this bike feels pretty comfortable, but I might recommend a suspension seat post to make things even more cushy for your ride
• The 180mm rotor hydraulic disc brakes are a great upgrade here, they are complimented well by a nicer derailleur, better gearing range, and more gearing options here on the Plus vs the regular Moscow
• The Plus is actually lighter by 1.4lbs despite its larger battery, better fork, upgraded gel saddle, and nicer display
• Minor gripe here, but I actually prefer the integrated finger bell on the regular Moscow as opposed to this more generic bell on the Moscow Plus, this was likely chosen to save space on the handle bar since it is using a larger display
• Some of the wires on this ebike are a bit more exposed along the base of the top tube, it looks a bit cleaner and reduces snags when they are completely internal
• This e-bike weighs more than your average trail bike at 56.1lbs because it has a higher capacity battery and a more basic spring suspension fork vs. air, I’d definitely take the battery off when lifting and transporting it
• No chain cover or guard means you need to be careful with your pants or dress, you don’t want it getting snagged and torn up in the chain ring system
• Even though this is technically a mountain bike, it’s nice to see a kickstand for those urban rides, I do wish that the stand was positioned a bit further back however, to avoid pedal lock with the left crank arm
• Another minor grips, but more and more people are commuting with hard tail mountain bikes, I like that this has provisions to add commuting options and already comes with a kickstand, but it should be noted it does not come with any lights in the front or rear
• With a standard 2amp battery charger, it could take a while to completely fill the high-capacity battery (6 or 7 hours), there are other ebikes with 3 or even 4amp chargers but they tend to weigh more
• The display panel isn’t removable and doesn’t swivel easily, as a result, it could get scratched more easily at racks and will take sun and rain wear over time
• Official Site: https://ncmbikes.de/

Review Updated On

More ncm reviews.

NCM Aspen Review

• MSRP: $1,699
• MODEL YEAR: 2019
• Fat Electric Bike Reviews

A minimalist yet capable value priced hard-tail fat-tire ebike with a proficient drive train both electrically and mechanically, lower price point allows for more financial freedom to customize and add things to the bike. Pretty lightweight at under 60lbs total, has a responsive and aggressive ride feel, comes with…...

• MSRP: $1,499
• Affordable Electric Bike Reviews

A cross country style hard-tail e-mountain bike with 80mm suspension fork, knobby trail tires, and sturdy alloy pedals, includes a trigger throttle up to 20mph. Lots of adjustability with the display panel, including speed, the 12-magnet cadence sensor is very…...

Comments (49) YouTube Comments

First off, let me say that I really enjoy your thorough reviews. The Moscow Plus is the third e-bike in our family, along with a Specialized Turbo Como 4.0 and Aventon Pace 500 . I purchased this from Amego; great value when purchasing from the US due to no tax and free shipping! I am able to use the code to get to the settings, but cannot figure out how to adjust the top speed from 20 mph to 25. All that I can access is wheel size and battery voltage. Can you assist please?

Hi Mark, I called Amego EV today asking for tips on how to update the speed. It sounds like you can only adjust the speed with the larger center-mount plus display. In that case, you’d hold the + and – key to get into settings and use the code 8018 which would allow you to adjust the speed. Perhaps someone in the ebike forums will be able to help further but this is what I go. Sounds like you’ve got a fun fleet of ebikes there and I hope you do find a solution :)

This might be a bit late, however you adjust the wheel size down and the bike will then up the speed based on that. I.E. adjust a 27.5inch down to 20.00inch and you add 30% speed as the computer reads a smaller tyre… make sense? The only down side is this throws off the odometre reading so you’ll need to factor in the 30% for closer accuracy.

hey Mark, how is the Moscow plus treating you thus far ? Is it a better purchase compared to the Aventon 500?

John - Sydney, Aus

Just bought one of these awesome machines! I haven’t been able to take it on a serious ride yet, but on a quick test ride one thing that surprised me was how easy it was to foul the front wheel with toes when turning – is that a regular thing?

Hey John! Yeah, I’ve experienced “toe strikes” when riding bikes like this, especially with larger shoes. They’ve gone with the “one size fits all” here but are using fairly large 27.5″ wheels with trail tires, so the clearance between the pedals and the front tire isn’t as much as it might be on a larger frame. This being a cross country frame style, with less rake on the fork, the wheel is fairly close to the frame and it can lead to the situation you’re describing. Yes, it is a regular thing with certain frame sizes and wheel/tire combinations. You might be able to reduce it by pedaling with the pad of your foot vs. the middle or heel.

John Liversage

Hi again, I’ve been riding the bike a couple of months now and enjoying great battery life and plenty of power (and thankfully the toe strike thing is no real problem). However, there’s is a significant defect in the power system – if you are stationery and adjust the pedals by turning them back even a small amount, occasionally (say 1 in 10 times) the power comes on, possibly at full power. As you can imagine, that’s extremely dangerous – it has once shot my bike onto the road while waiting at lights to cross a busy road, and once into the side of my car while parking the bike in my garage. I’ve reported the issue to the bike shop I bought the bike from (Leon Cycles here in Melbourne, Australia), and although initially they were responsive (even confirming it is a known fault), they have stopped responding, despite my best efforts. I did send a video I’d taken that graphically shows the issue. Even apart from that fault, the power is also very slow to come on when going from downhill (above the speed where power is provided – here in Australia that’s 25KPH) to a steep uphill, taking upwards of 5 seconds to respond (I tested a different e-bike and response was almost instantaneous). On your review ride it was largely flat, so I’m thinking you would not have picked that up. Is that a common issue with other ebikes? Any suggestions?

A few rectifications:

• The bike uses a 8 speed 11-32 freewheel, not a cassette. It’s hard (if impossible) to find in the north american market. Here’s a link I found on aliexpress for spare parts: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33056759327.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.3e774c4df5Shfp
• The display will let you go from pedal assist 6 up to 0, but not from 0 down to 6, if that makes sense. Doesn’t go around in both directions, maybe that’s something they changed. (I bought 2 moscow pluses and they’re both this way.)
• You can’t change the maximum speed, but what you can do is input a smaller wheel diameter. They speedometer won’t show the correct speed anymore, and the bike will assist you up to 32km/h + about 30%. THIS WON’T MAKE IT A SPEED PEDELEC unless you pedal EXTRA HARD on the top gear ratio (48×11). I find myself going barely over 32 on flat ground, maybe up to 35-36 helping with my legs.

Hope this will be helpful. This bike is amazing btw, and if you’re commuting, going faster than that would absolutely drain your battery anyway. For exemple, a bike going 50km/h will need to draw 1500W of power and you run continuously for only 40 minutes with a 1000Wh battery. This has been my experience with the Rize Rx, which I decided to resell because of that.

Hi Mat, thanks for the updates! Great point about the freewheel. I didn’t think there were any 11 tooth freewheels and only recently learned more about the distinction between a cassette and freewheel. I really appreciate you sourcing that part! Your second point about not being able to “around” makes sense. Perhaps they did change something from 2018/2019 when I covered the bike. The wheel size hack is something I’ve heard about before, so thanks for explaining that more thoroughly and posting your results for top achievable speed. I’m hoping to cover more RIZE ebikes in the future, so glad to get your insight about why you switched to NCM here. Great comment! Thanks again :)

Mathis Bourcier-Laurin

Concerning the link I put in my comment, these appear to be cassettes after all… I might have got this wrong. I’m sending an email to NCM to know more. There doesn’t seam to be any 11-32 freewheels accessible on the market.

Hi! Nice review! I am considering the NCM Moscow Plus or Eahora AM100. Can you please make review Eahora AM100 or/and compere Moscow Plus with Eahora AM100! Will be very appreciate any suggestions. Thanks!

Hi Steve! I’m more familiar with NCM, but I will keep an eye out for the Eahora products and possibly do another review this year. That said, it could be many weeks or months from now. I recommend asking for feedback in the EBR forums in the NCM section here . I hope this helps you compare the two… and the list of specs here on the Moscow Plus review, you can compare them with the specs for the Eahora AM100 based on their website :)

Hi, in your video review the topic came up about using the NCM Moscow in snow conditions with regards to how it would hold up in salted roads and in wet conditions.

How do these bikes do in rain and puddles? I can see where you might want to avoid those but sometimes you get caught out on a ride where you have to ride through some conditions like that.

Hi John, my experience riding in rain has been that most ebike products, even the cheaper ones, are highly water resistant… they should hold up alright in rain, just don’t submerge. One time, I had ridden in a heavy rainstorm in Austin, TX (big heavy drops) and then parked my bike outside in the sun. The LCD fogged up inside because the water somehow got inside due to humidity or splashes or something. That fog stayed for a long time and was annoying. I’ve considered wrapping displays with plastic during extra rainy days. I also never flip an ebike upside-down to wash them (with a hose gently) because the cables and holes and electronics are all designed to drain downwards and if you flip them, water can pile up inside instead of draining. I learned that washing with a hose, some car soap, a rag and chamois is alright, even using car wax on bicycle paint seems to work well and protect any steel parts from rusting as quickly. I usually go for synthetic spray wax that works on metal and plastic, and I just coat everything. Final tip, I also use biodegradable spray cleaner for bicycles more often than car cleaner products before the wax, and I regularly lube my chain but dry it off after vs. leaving it greasy. This reduces the chance of dust and debris sticking to the chain and wearing down your sprockets. Sorry that these tips aren’t formatted perfectly, I’m in a hurry ;)

Thank you for your reply in answer to my questions. That helps me a lot.

Question for you on the Moscow plus mountain bike. The specs for that bike from Lyon cycle says it has 55 NM and I was reading your review and in it you say it has a NM. Can you tell me the difference between the measurements?

Hi Kipper, I hope I’m understanding your question correctly. It sounds like you want to know what NM stands for? This is an abbreviation for Newton Meters of torque. It’s a measure of how strong a motor can be, how much force it can create (which is good for starting and climbing). I hope this helps! Many of the stats that I provide here for motor power (watts and newton meters) are provided by companies. There are different ways to measure these things and I suspect that some companies are exaggerating the power of their products. That’s why I try to leave comments open and also show how the bike rides on camera, so people can make their own judgements :)

What I think Kipper was saying is that you list the torque at 80nm… All other specs I’ve seen list it at 55nm

Had the bike for about 6 weeks now and have 600k on the odometer. Overall a solid bike with great range and speed. Have encountered the following problems. The battery gets loose after a while and starts to knock. This can be remedied with some strips of duct tape to act as spacers. I broke a spoke on the rear wheel. When I tried my local bike shop, they said it was an unusual size and ended up having to order one online from Germany. The screws holding the rear brake disc fell out. The seller has promised to send me a new set at no-charge but it’s odd that they all fell out without much warning. No big issues so far, and I am still pleased with the purchase.

Hey, thanks for chiming in with these notes about the Moscow Plus. I’m glad that overall, you’re still happy with it. It’s also reassuring to hear that NCM has provided some support and your local bike shop went to such great lengths to help you get a new spoke! Good on them, and thank you for taking the time to share :)

Hi there, I really enjoyed your review. I have a NCM Moscow 27.5″ Plus here in the UK. Leon cycles tell me they no longer provide thumb throttles for the Eurorean market so I guess my questions are can you tell me the details of the throttle so I can source one which is compatible and will I be able to fit it on to my model? Does the cable from the throttle go into the back of the display (there are no spare holes) or does it go directly into the control box somehow. Hope these questions aren’t too technical and that you can help in a small way.

I suppose the alternative would be to buy a bike from North America, but suppliers there seem reluctant to ship to the UK – unless you know of one who does!!?? :) Thanks for your time. John H.

Hi John! Unfortunately, I do not know where to source the part, and am not 100% sure that I’d know the latest display/throttle interface. Perhaps you could post the same question in the NCM Ebike Forums to see if any recent buyers could help. This throttle is fairly unique and highly sought after by some other companies I’ve spoken with, because it’s narrow – allowing the shifter and brakes to not get pushed too far in towards the stem. I think some other companies use it too, like Magnum on their Mi6 model . I hope this helps point you in the right direction!

Hi, sorry, but I didn’t catch your name in the video review, but found it to be one of the best reviews information wise. How tall are you so I can gauge how the 29 will fit? You appeared to be in a comfortable upright position. Did you have enough straddle room at a stop? What’s your inseam if you don’t mind saying?

I prefer a larger bike so I don’t have to lean over so much. I’m 5’9″ and currently ride a large Trek Verve+ with 29 inch wheels which works well.

Thanks, Gary

Hi Gary! Sorry for the delayed reply here. I’m 5’9″ as well, and my inseam is about 32 inches. The bike felt good to me and I did have room to straddle the top tube when stopping. I tend to raise the seat way up to get full leg extension, and this bike had enough space for me to achieve that and have comfortable reach. We are lucky because many bikes fit people 5’5″ to 6’1″ or so and we’re right in the middle there :D

Hi, I just got my Moscow Plus 29″.

I’m 6’2″ 245lbs with 32″ inseam and when I stand straight I’m just touching the cross bar, which I find uncomfortable, and zero chance over ever installing water bottle. I wish I had read more reviews before purchasing, as on site said that the 29″ good for 5’9″ to 6’4″ and 27.5 was 5’5″ to 6’1″. I have read now found a few reviews that say the 29″ is too big even for someone my height

I would suggest that 33″ inseam or less go for the 27.5″ Thanks

Saiveer Aushatty

Hello I recently brought the Moscow plus e-bike but I am not satisfied with the battery because it is getting discharged quickly and when I take the bike from store the bms was 53. Something when it is fully charged. but now when I am charging in the home it is showing 51. Something and also charging of the battery is also discharging quickly can I know what is the reason??

Hi Saiveer, perhaps it is colder weather? That could explain why the battery isn’t getting the same range but might not explain the voltage drop. Over time, it is my understanding that any lithium-ion battery will begin to lose capacity (especially if the battery is heating up a lot). Maybe NCM is using cheaper cells or your pack was older? I cannot say for sure, but maybe you could buy a replacement battery someday if it continues to drop in capacity.

Hi, I love the review and currently considering a NCM. Can you comment on the difference between a Moscow and Moscow Plus? Why would you consider the upgrade?

Hi Leanne! It has been too long since performing this particular review to know what the current differences are. Usually, it has to do with upgraded brakes, maybe a nicer derailleur, or a higher capacity battery pack. Perhaps you could ask for some input on the NCM ebike forums to see if anyone there has some insights :)

Hi! I’m considering the Moscow Plus. I watched the review, it was awesome! Thanks. It made me want to by it right away, but over in Montreal is not really good timing with the snow, especially if ebikes don’t like salt (quoting yours truly :) )You mentioned the 29 inch is more comfortable than the 27; according to my height 5,6’’ I should get the 27″. Do you think I should get the 29 and I will be able to adjust it to my body dimensions? Also, how fast does the battery recharge?

Thank you! Céline

Hi Céline! Yeah, this is a good ebike. It’s made to be affordable, but still pretty capable, and it’s nice that they offer two wheel sizes. Yes, I agree that the 27″ wheel is a better fit for you at 5’6″ tall. The larger 29″ wheel diameter helps to smooth out bumps, but raises the frame, adds weight, and just isn’t a great fit unless you’re a taller person. I believe that the 27″ will still be very comfortable for you. As for charging, I’d estimate that a full charge could take 5.5 hours. Note that the first half fill goes much faster than the second half, because the charger slows down in order to help the battery balance (which is easier on the cells, helping them to last longer and be in good condition). I hope this helps!!

Thank you for your reply it helps me and reaffirms my choice for this ebike! Can’t wait to order and try it out!

I just got a Moscow and its terrible in so many aspects! The controller is awful and the wires running all over the frame is a pain! you cannot easily carry the damn thing and finding a rear rack for it is another nightmare! The common racks that attach to seat post and rear part of the frame wouldn’t work and the compatible ones are unavailable and quite pricy! the bike come with absolute no adjustment and the L and H on the derailleur was so off that you couldn’t shift it to Gear 1 or 7 and the rest was entirely unindexed! The whole things is a mess and Leon Cycle did not even post my review! This is why they have so few reviews for each product!

Hi Hamed, that really sucks. This is why I created EBR and the associated forums, to let people speak more freely (as long as they are constructive and honest). It sounds like you’re frustrated with the bike and it came damaged or just way out of tune. I’m sorry man, yes, the wires on this ebike are also more exposed vs. internally routed. I hope you got a good deal on it, I think with so many brands being sold out recently, people are left with fewer options and the direct online bikes can be risky and get damaged in shipping. NCM has been around longer, and I feel like the founder is a hard working person (who supplied Magnum and Amego) but I haven’t been in touch or reviewed their products for a while now. Hope you can get it running right and enjoy some rides this summer… or sell it and get another ebike.

Hi Court, I really appreciate both the website and youtube videos! They are really helpful! I fixed almost everything but it took me > 3 hours and was a total pain! I got it for < 1500 CAD so it wasn't horrible but anyway I wish I would have been waitng till June/July to get either a Radpower or Rize which both are looking pretty good but are in the back order! Deciding to bike again after twenty something years you'de assume how unfamiliar everything looks like and that is why I want other folks like me know what to expect! Cheers

dennis morgan

I purchased a Moscow Plus one month ago and it has not run with any assistance at consistantlly motor keeps cutting and no speedo reading have checked all connections and they are tight we have at least 8 ebikes in our group now . and many different brands this only one doing this. other experienced riders have ridden my bike and the same thing has happened to them no speedo reading no power motor turn on handle bar switch it runs with assistance for about 30 seconds and cuts out again i am now wishing i did not purchase this bike. you can ring them for help and it takes so long for them to get back to you has any one else had this problem with a moscow plus bike

Hi Dennis, that sounds frustrating. Thanks for sharing with us, I hope you are able to find some solutions or maybe sell the Moscow Plus and try another ebike?

Got a Moscow Plus and I’m pretty happy with it. The previous owners stating their issues I believe they may have a dud, Mine works well, shifts very smoothly (for the drivetrain in this price range), the pedal assist works well Talking bang for the buck I believe there is nothing that comes close. 16mA batt 500W motor 80Nm torque, hydraulic brakes, decent tires I mean this bike checks all the boxes for a rear hub low cost bikes. Will see down the road for longevity and issues but as it is I would totally recommend this for someone’s first ebike without shelling out big $$ for a mid drive fancier big name bike. As the review already stated the kickstand position is awkward to say the least and the charger could be better, but these are pretty much my only complaints after owning it for approx 1 month,

Thanks for the update, Adrian! Glad to hear that you’re satisfied with the product :)

I bought my Moscow Plus a week ago from a local bike shop in lower mainland of BC. Fully charged the battery (53.7 V reading) and took it out for a total of three rides. Got a total of 135 kms before the last battery gauge bar started to flash. was using PAS 1-2 mainly. The only problem encountered so far is when the front derailleur is in the small sprocket and the rear is also in the small sprocket, the chain would tend to skip. Otherwise a good bike.

Hi Rob! Very fair assessment, thanks for sharing what has worked and what issues you’ve noticed. I covered this model a long time ago, so perhaps things are outdated a bit. Does your bike mostly fit the description and review I made here? It sounds like you’re pretty happy with it overall, I think they are priced well.

Hi, love the reviews and because yours are far most the best, I purchased the NCM Power Plus and am happy with the bike. Only problems I have had since my purchase I found that the fat tires were rather slippery during the winter riding on city roads and I started to get constant rear flat tires, I had about 3 flats all within 2 months after purchase, I took it into the shop and the bike mechanic could not find anything wrong, so I made the decision to change tires from the original Schwalbe 57-662 to 55-662 and 1,766 km later still no flat tires and mystery was never solved.

The other issue I have that the Leon website key features state – reach up to 150 km (depending on terrain conditions & power level settings) OK well I thought that this seems a little of an over statement, so was hoping for at least 100km range on a full battery but I don’t even get close so I would love to know how this 150km range is achieved – I am 5’11” and weigh 91kg. I usually bike on good flat city roads and the occasional flat fine gravel cycle path using PAS #3 and 18th gear traveling about 23-25 km/h (21 m/hr) and I am lucky to get 65km (40 miles) range before the flashing cell appears on the screen, so if anyone or yourself can tell me what I am doing wrong and how I can achieve more km range without have to weigh in at 60kg I would be very grateful, as at this stage I feel that the 150km statement made by Leon Cycles is a little misleading. Other changers I have made on my bike are just some short plastic guards and a more comfortable seat.

Cheers Glenn

Hi Glenn! I’m glad to hear that your new tires are working better. Regarding the range estimates from NCM, most companies I speak with use a 72kg (160lb) rider on flat pavement with no wind using both the low assist and high assist to estimate a range. Since you are riding with PAS #3 I would expect your actual range to fall somewhere between their estimate. The higher the assist, the lower the tire pressure, the less smooth the terrain, and the more throttle is used will all reduce your range. Another way range is sometimes calculated is to divide the watt hours of the battery pack by 20 so that would be 768 / 20 = 38.4 minimum range. It sounds like you are getting close to that number (you said 40 miles). Over time, battery cells may not provide the same high capacity as they are power cycled, and the parts of the bike could become dirty and less smooth. A tuneup could help increase range. This ebike also uses a cadence sensor, which doesn’t require much pedal input from the rider, so the motor usually works harder than a torque sensor. These are all of my thoughts, I hope they help you :)

bikes crap…. my throttle has already broken the display screen has frozen and won’t let me change pedal assistance settings….. complete angler Gosnells is where i brought it from they scammed me and put 1.95 inch tubes when its supposed to have 3 inch wide tubes…. disappointing

Post a Comment

Cancel reply.

Your email address will not be published.

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed .

Find a bike shop near you | Trek Retailers