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Bosnia & Herzegovina Travel Guide

Last Updated: August 17, 2023

Often overlooked because the country’s name is still synonymous with the Yugoslavian War of the 1990s, Bosnia & Herzegovina deserves your attention. It’s one of the most underrated destinations in Europe .

Not a lot of people backpack or travel through the country but it is rich in history, culture, and natural beauty.

Three major religions (Islam, Roman Catholic, and Serbian Orthodox) all come together in this small area to form a vibrant blend of cultures. You’ll hear the Muslim call to prayer over the minarets one minute, and church bells ringing from a nearby church the next.

Watch skilled divers jump from the iconic bridge in Mostar, enjoy some hookah at one of Sarajevo’s sidewalk cafes, take a dip in the turquoise pools below the cascading Kravica Falls, or raft down the Tara Canyon, the deepest canyon in Europe.

The country (especially the capital) has become more popular in recent years thanks to increasing tourism in the region and cheaper prices but you can still catch it before the big crowds come!

This travel guide to Bosnia & Herzegovina will help you plan your trip, save money, and make the most of your time in this off-the-beaten-path destination!

Table of Contents

• Things to See and Do
• Typical Costs
• Suggested Budget
• Money-Saving Tips
• Where to Stay
• How to Get Around
• How to Stay Safe
• Best Places to Book Your Trip
• Related Blogs on Bosnia & Herzegovina

Top 5 Things to See and Do in Bosnia & Herzegovina

1. See Sarajevo

Bosnia’s capital has a distinct “east meets west” vibe. Perched alongside the Miljacka River and surrounded by mountains, the city is both scenic and historic. It is well-known for its cultural diversity and is sometimes referred to as the Jerusalem of Europe; within the city you can sometimes find a mosque, a catholic church, and a synagogue all within a few blocks. Wander the colorful Bascarsija Square for excellent people-watching, and while you’re there visit the iconic Sebilj Fountain. This Ottoman-style wooden fountain was originally built in 1753 and relocated in 1891. Local legend claims that if you drink from the fountain, you will always return to Sarajevo. Enjoy some hookah, take the cable car to the top of Mount Trebevic for incredible views, and visit the Bašcaršija historic market for some snacks and more people-watching.

2. Check out Mostar

Mostar is a medieval city best known for its 16th-century bridge, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, straddling the Neretva river. The bridge is constructed in the Ottoman style, and on warm days you will often spot locals jumping off into the river. Mostar’s name comes from the word mostari , which translates to bridge keeper (the original bridge was crucial to an important trade route). Strolling through Mostar is like traveling back in time, with its picturesque cobblestone streets and incredible architecture. Explore this historic town and see the ancient Ottoman homes and panoramic views from the local mosque. It’s one of the best cities in the country.

3. Visit the Pliva Lakes

The Pliva Lakes are two emerald lakes surrounded by wooded mountains, just outside Jajce. The area is home to the famous Pliva watermills, unique wooden watermills that were traditionally used to grind wheat. With rivers, waterfalls, and easy bike paths, outdoor lovers flock here to swim, paddle, bike, and explore. Surrounded by amenities like picnic tables, fire pits, kayak rentals, cafes, and playgrounds, the lakes are an ideal place to enjoy a day surrounded by nature. The lakes are formed from the widening Pliva River, which joins the Vrbas River and empties over the 22-meter (72-foot) Pliva Waterfall. For something unique, plan your visit to the annual waterfall jumping competition held here each August.

4. Marvel at the Kravica Waterfall

These marvelous cascades drop 25 meters (82 feet) into a bright emerald pool. During the springtime, the forests surrounding the pool and waterfall blossom into lush greenery, giving the area an oasis-like appearance. You can spend the day splashing in the swimming hole and swinging from the rope swing. Afterward, there’s a little café next to the water where you can grab a snack or a cold beer. Admission is 20 BAM, and swimming is allowed. To see the falls as part of a day trip from Mostar or Dubrovnik costs around 70 BAM.

5. Explore Trebinje

Other things to see and do in bosnia & herzegovina, 1. ostrožac fortress.

This Gothic castle in the Una Valley is one of Bosnia’s most photogenic landmarks thanks to its brick torrents and stone wall running along the valley’s edge. Ostrožac has plenty to explore within its grounds, including a sculpture garden, ramparts, towers, and a manor house dating back to 1286. You can only visit the castle during the summer. Admission is 4 BAM.

2. Walk the Tunnel of Hope

Surrounded by Bosnian-Serb forces, Sarajevo had just one link with the outside world from 1992–1995: an 800-meter long (2,624-feet), 1-meter (3-feet) wide, 1.6-meter (5-feet) high tunnel connecting two houses on opposite sides of the airport runway. Eventually, the tunnel was equipped with rails to transport food and supplies. You can walk through part of the tunnel from the house at the western entrance while learning about the story of the siege through informational displays and videos. It’s an incredibly moving experience. The tunnel is open 9am-5pm daily and admission is 10 BAM.

3. Visit the National Museum of Bosnia & Herzegovina

The National Museum of Bosnia & Herzegovina in Sarajevo houses the Sarajevo Haggadah (a Jewish text) illuminated manuscript, which contains the illustrated text of the Passover Haggadah that goes with the Passover Seder. It’s one of the oldest Haggadah in the world, dating from 1350 and originating in Barcelona. In addition to Greek pottery and Roman mosaics, this museum is also home to a collection of stecci (medieval tombstones found scattered around the country). They started appearing in the 12th century for various Christian churches like the Bosnian Church, and most of them are inscribed with the extinct Bosnian Cyrillic alphabet. The entrance to the museum is 8 BAM.

4. See the Mehmed Pasha Sokolovic Bridge

Mehmed Pasha Sokolovic Bridge was built in Višegrad in 1571 and was designed by Mimar Sinan, the famous chief architect for the Ottoman Empire. He was the master builder behind both the Sehzade Mosque and the Süleymaniye Mosque in Istanbul, and this 11-arch bridge is the only confirmed work he completed in Bosnia & Herzegovina. It stretches 179 meters (587 feet) across the Drina River, and although it’s now closed to traffic, you can still appreciate its perfectly symmetrical beauty from the land.

5. See the watermills of Jajce

Jajce is known as the “city of falling water” thanks to its giant waterfall that connects the rivers Pliva and Vrbas. During the days of the Austro-Hungarian Empire (1867-1918), the small wooden huts stood on stilts over the gushing water used to ground local farmers’ wheat into flour. You can’t go inside, but you can see the huts up close as you explore.

6. Take a tour of Tito’s Bunker

On the bank of the river Neretva, just outside of Konjic and hidden behind a seemingly normal house, the once-forgotten bunker was built under the command of the Yugoslav revolutionary Josip Tito. It was kept secret for many years — even the construction workers were blindfolded until they arrived on site. The bunker cost billions of dollars to build and is now home to a contemporary art biennial called D-0 ARK Underground. You can only visit as a part of a guided tour with Visit Konjic, which costs 22 BAM.

7. See the Bosnian Pyramids

Located near Visoko, the Bosnian Pyramids are a set of four pyramids dating back 12,000 years ago that have perfect cardinal alignment, some reaching heights of 220 meters (721 feet). While most of the scientific community has debunked the theory that an ancient civilization built these structures, it’s a pretty amazing coincidence that they’re so aligned with the north. There are no official tours, so you’re free to explore on your own.

8. Visit Galerija 11/07/95

One of the most tragic events of the Yugoslavian War was the Srebrenica massacre, the largest genocide since World War II carried out by Bosnian Serb forces. With 8,372 victims, the gallery stands as a memorial to those that lost their life while also sharing survivor stories. It’s a powerful exhibition made up of photography, video footage, and audio testimonies. Admission is 12 BAM. An audio guide costs 3 BAM and a tour is 4 BAM.

9. Go whitewater rafting

Whitewater rafting on the Tara River Canyon, the deepest canyon in Europe, is one of the most exciting things to do in the country as you tackle rapids and fast-flowing water. Other than navigating 25 kilometers (15 miles) of white water, your guide will take you to waterfalls, springs, and swimming holes. I recommend Rafting Center Drina Tara. Their full-day tour costs 140 BAM and ends with a delicious traditional dinner of homemade goat pies, soup, grilled lamb, and drinks.

Bosnia & Herzegovina Travel Costs

Accommodation – Hostel dorms start at around 19 BAM per night for an 8-10-bed dorm while a bed in a 4-6 person dorm costs closer to 28 BAM. For a private room, expect to pay at least 45-63 BAM per night for a twin.

Budget hotels in bigger cities (like Mostar and Sarajevo) cost around 63 BAM per night for a double or twin. In the more rural areas, you’ll find rooms for as low as 35 BAM.

Airbnb is another affordable option, with private rooms starting around 30 BAM per night while a full home or apartment costs at least 40 BAM (though prices average double that or more).

For anyone traveling with a tent, wild camping on public land is legal in Bosnia & Herzegovina. Additionally, there are campsites available throughout the country. Tent plots cost about 10.50 BAM per person.

Food – Traditional food in Bosnia & Herzegovina is very cheap and filling (and meat-heavy). Beef and lamb are popular staples, and influences from the Middle East and the Mediterranean are common. Sarma (meat and rice in pickled cabbage leaves), cevapi (a pita filled with cream and sausage), and burek (a flaky pastry with meat, cheese, and spinach) are some of the popular traditional choices. Common ingredients include potatoes, tomatoes, onions, garlic, cabbage, and plums.

You can get plates of cevapi or burek for about 7 BAM. A meal at a mid-range restaurant costs about 15 BAM and you can expect to pay about 3 BAM for a beer. Dinner at a fancy restaurant (including Western restaurants) costs about 35 BAM for an appetizer, main, and dessert.

For comparison, fast food like McDonald’s is about 9 BAM for a combo meal.

If you are planning to cook your own food, a week’s worth of groceries costs around 45-65 BAM. This gets you basic staples like rice, seasonal produce, and some meat.

Backpacking Bosnia & Herzegovina Suggested Budgets

If you are backpacking in Bosnia & Herzegovina, my suggested budget is 85 BAM per day. This assumes you’re staying in a hostel dorm, cooking your meals, sticking to mostly free activities (like free walking tours and hiking), and using public transportation to get around.

A mid-range budget of about 160 BAM covers staying in an Airbnb, eating out for all your meals at cheap local places, enjoying a few drinks, taking the occasional taxi, and doing more paid activities like museum visits or rafting.

On a “luxury” budget of 275 BAM per day or more, you will stay in a hotel, eat out for all your meals, enjoy lots of drinks, take more taxis or rent a car, and do all the tours you desire. This is just the ground floor for luxury though. The sky is the limit!

You can use the chart below to get some idea of how much you need to budget daily, depending on your travel style. Keep in mind these are daily averages — some days you’ll spend more, some days you’ll spend less (you might spend less every day). We just want to give you a general idea of how to make your budget. Prices are in BAM.

Bosnia & Herzegovina Travel Guide: Money-Saving Tips

Bosnia & Herzegovina, like most of the region, is very budget-friendly. You’ll be able to eat, drink, and stay in comfortable accommodations without breaking the bank too much. However, I always love saving money when I can so here are some tips to help you save money when you visit:

• Do a free walking tour – Both Sarajevo and Mostar have free walking tours available. They’re a great way to get familiar with the city and the culture. Just be sure to tip your guide at the end!
• Wild camp – If you really want to save money in Bosnia & Herzegovina, bring your tent. You can pitch your tent on public land throughout Bosnia & Herzegovina.
• Cook your own meals – Many hostels here include kitchen facilities, so if you want to save money, cook your own meals. It’s not glamorous but it’s cheap!
• Stay with a local – Staying with a local via Couchsurfing is a great way to not only save money but to meet a knowledgeable local. Just make sure to send your requests early as there are not a ton of hosts here.
• Walk everywhere – All of the major cities in Bosnia & Herzegovina are walkable, so skip the public transportation if you want to save a few extra dollars.
• Enjoy the free spaces – There are plenty of free parks as well as many free hiking trails around the country. Save your budget and enjoy the outdoors!
• Drink the tap water – Tap water within the cities is safe to drink, but not in the rural areas. Pick up a LifeStraw (a water bottle with a purifier) so you can cut down on your use of plastic bottles while saving money in the process.

Where to Stay in Bosnia & Herzegovina

Like many other countries in this part of Europe, Bosnia & Herzegovina only has hostel accommodation in the cities. In the smaller less popular areas, you will find B&B style accommodation or campsites. Here are some of my favorite places to stay in Bosnia & Herzegovina:

• Hostel Kucha (Sarajevo)
• Balkan Han Hostel (Sarajevo)
• Hostel Franz Ferdinand (Sarajevo)
• Villa Cardak (Mostar)
• Rooms Goa Mostar (Mostar)
• The Red Door Hostel Trebinje (Trebinje)

How to Get Around Bosnia & Herzegovina

Public transportation – Most towns in Bosnia & Herzegovina are walkable. While public transportation prices vary by city, you can expect to pay around 2 BAM for a one-way ticket on buses, trams, or trolleybuses.

Taxi – If you need to take a taxi, prices start at about 3 BAM and cost about 1.60 BAM for every additional kilometer. While affordable, they do add up so skip them if you can.

Bus – There is an extensive network of long-distance intercity and international buses. Between towns, it’s normally easy enough to wave down any bus. Reservations are sometimes necessary for overnight routes or at peak holiday times but not during the day. The biggest companies include:

• Centrotrans

A bus from Sarajevo to Mostar takes 2.5 hours and costs around 11 BAM, while Sarajevo to Trebinje takes nearly 10 hours and is about 40 BAM. Mostar to Jajce is a 4.5-hour journey and costs about 27 BAM. Try to book a day in advance when possible as seats do fill up quickly in the summer season.

It is worth noting that if you buy a round trip with the same company, you can save yourself up to 60% compared to buying two single tickets. Also, if you need to put luggage in the hold, companies will often charge you an additional 2-4 BAM. (It’s common in this region to charge for the luggage hold.)

Train – Trains do operate in Bosnia & Herzegovina, however, they are outdated and extremely slow. I do not recommend using them. Take the bus instead.

Flying – No budget airlines offer domestic flights within Bosnia & Herzegovina.

Car rental – Car rentals can be found for around 40 BAM per day for a multi-day rental. Renters must be at least 21 years old and have an International Driving Permit (IDP). For the best car rental prices, use Discover Cars .

When to Go to Bosnia & Herzegovina

In general, May through to October is the best time to visit Bosnia & Herzegovina as these are the warmest months. The temperature hovers around 31°C (87°F) and rarely drops below 17°C (62°F).

Even in the summer months, Bosnia & Herzegovina doesn’t get a ton of tourism traffic. A lot of people will take a day trip to Mostar from Croatia, but you don’t have to worry too much about overcrowding in the rest of the country.

Unlike other Mediterranean countries, Bosnia & Herzegovina doesn’t have a whole lot of coastal areas to enjoy. If you’re here mostly for hiking or sightseeing, the cooler spring/fall temperatures might suit you better.

Winters here can be harsh and they often last from November to March. Temperatures often drop below freezing, and snowfall is common. I’d skip a winter visit.

How to Stay Safe in Bosnia & Herzegovina

In Bosnia & Herzegovina, violent crime against tourists is rare. However, scams and pick-pocketing are common, usually on public transport and in the cities and especially around high-traffic areas in Sarajevo. Always keep an eye on your stuff and only take the cash you need for the day. You can read about common travel scams to avoid here.

If you want to go hiking, it’s essential you stick to marked trails only. Landmines can still be found here from the war so always stick to the trail.

Solo female travelers should generally feel safe here, however, the standard precautions apply (never leave your drink unattended at the bar, never walk home alone intoxicated, etc.).

If you experience an emergency, dial 122 for assistance.

The most important piece of advice I can offer is to purchase good travel insurance. Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. It’s comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong. I never go on a trip without it as I’ve had to use it many times in the past. You can use the widget below to find the policy right for you:

Bosnia & Herzegovina Travel Guide: The Best Booking Resources

These are my favorite companies to use when I travel. They consistently have the best deals, offer world-class customer service and great value, and overall, are better than their competitors. They are the companies I use the most and are always the starting point in my search for travel deals.

• Skyscanner – Skyscanner is my favorite flight search engine. They search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites tend to miss. They are hands down the number one place to start.
• Hostelworld – This is the best hostel accommodation site out there with the largest inventory, best search interface, and widest availability.
• Booking.com – The best all around booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation. In all my tests, they’ve always had the cheapest rates out of all the booking websites.
• HostelPass – This new card gives you up to 20% off hostels throughout Europe. It’s a great way to save money. They’re constantly adding new hostels too. I’ve always wanted something like this and glad it finallt exists.
• Get Your Guide – Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions. They have tons of tour options available in cities all around the world, including everything from cooking classes, walking tours, street art lessons, and more!
• The Man in Seat 61 – This website is the ultimate guide to train travel anywhere in the world. They have the most comprehensive information on routes, times, prices, and train conditions. If you are planning a long train journey or some epic train trip, consult this site.
• Rome2Rio – This website allows you to see how to get from point A to point B the best and cheapest way possible. It will give you all the bus, train, plane, or boat routes that can get you there as well as how much they cost.
• FlixBus – Flixbus has routes between 20 European countries with prices starting as low 5 EUR! Their buses include WiFi, electrical outlets, a free checked bag.
• SafetyWing – Safety Wing offers convenient and affordable plans tailored to digital nomads and long-term travelers. They have cheap monthly plans, great customer service, and an easy-to-use claims process that makes it perfect for those on the road.
• LifeStraw – My go-to company for reusable water bottles with built-in filters so you can ensure your drinking water is always clean and safe.
• Unbound Merino – They make lightweight, durable, easy-to-clean travel clothing.
• Top Travel Credit Cards – Points are the best way to cut down travel expenses. Here’s my favorite point earning credit cards so you can get free travel!

Bosnia & Herzegovina Travel Guide: Related Articles

Want more info? Check out all the articles I’ve written on backpacking/traveling Europe and continue planning your trip:

The 6 Best Hotels in Florence

The 7 Best Hotels in Madrid

The 6 Best Hotels in Vienna

The Best Walking Tours in Barcelona

How to Be a Digital Nomad in Europe

The Best eSIM for Traveling Europe

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Bosnia and Herzegovina Travel Guide – Expert advice and holiday tips including Sarajevo nightlife and restaurants, accommodation, culture and festivals. This guide also features regional guides, wildlife and natural history, hiking and the Via Dinarica, white-water rafting, wineries, Sutjeska National Park, Tajan Nature Park, Mostar and Lukomir.

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About this book.

This new, thoroughly updated sixth edition of Bradt’s Bosnia and Herzegovina remains the only full-length English-language guide to this cultural and outdoor adventure Balkan crossroads. Written by an expert who came to volunteer during the war and ended up staying almost thirty years, it offers a unique first-hand account combined with practical information that goes beyond any other guide available. New for this sixth edition are updated maps, contacts and detailed visitor information not easily found online, insider knowledge on the ever-changing hotel and restaurant scene in Sarajevo, details of new attractions such as cable cars and museums, new rural and eco-accommodation around the national parks, and new coverage of the Green and Blue trails of the Via Dinarica, which has been further developed, particularly around Sarajevo and in Herzegovina. Up-and-coming tourist hubs such as Banja Luka, Tuzla and Mostar are also covered, while a new Eastern Bosnia chapter expands on what to see and do in the main towns and includes details of new outdoor adventure offerings along the Montenegrin/Tara border. This edition also includes a complete run-down of all the wineries in Herzegovina. A rich history, great food scene, outdoor activities, nature and hiking make Bosnia and Herzegovina popular with all age groups and the Bradt guide provides all the information needed for a successful trip, from hostels to boutique hotels, cheap eats to fancy restaurants, wilderness adventure to business travel.

About the Author

Tim Clancy was brought to the Balkans by a simple twist of fate in late 1992, when he hitched a ride from Germany to Croatia to join the grass-roots relief agency Suncokret (meaning ‘sunflower’), which was involved in aid work in a refugee camp in western Herzegovina. His three-week stint turned into a two-decade commitment, and he now calls Bosnia home. Tim worked in refugee camps with women and children from all over Bosnia and Croatia and eventually saw out the end of the war as an active humanitarian in the besieged eastern quarters of Mostar. Driving aid convoys throughout the country had introduced him to its pristine nature and fabulous highlander traditions, a side of Bosnia and Herzegovina (BiH) that few people know of and one he thought worth helping to protect and preserve. After several years of development work in BiH, Montenegro, Albania and Kosovo following the war, Tim spent a year hiking through the mountains and learning more about the highland cultures. In 2000 he and some friends formed Green Visions, the first ecotourism and environment protection group in the country. Since then he has been dedicated to environmental activism, ecologically responsible development of BiH’s cultural, historical and natural heritage, and changing the widespread negative image of Bosnia and Herzegovina as a tourism and environment consultant for the EU, UNDP and local governments. He recently co-founded an NGO called Terra Dinarica dedicated to the sustainable development of the Via Dinarica mega-trail that stretches from Albania to Slovenia. This edition has been updated by self-proclaimed Balkan ‘connoisseur’, Larissa Olenicoff, who first fell in love with the region after she visited Bosnia and Herzegovina in 2011, and to this day considers it to be one of her favourite places to travel through. She has worked on various tourism projects around the country over the past several years including the initial promotional campaign of Via Dinarica, the mega trail project through the Dinaric Alps co-initiated by this book’s author, Tim Clancy.

‘The best general guide to travelling in Bosnia’ The Great Outdoors

Additional Information

Contents Introduction PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION Chapter 1 Background Information Geography and climate, Natural history and conservation, History, Politics, Economy, People, Language, Religion, Education, Culture Chapter 2 Practical Information When to visit, Highlights, Suggested itineraries, Tourist information, Tour operators, Red tape, Getting there and away, Health, Safety and security, Women travellers, LGBTQ+ travellers, Travelling with a disability, What to take, Money and budgeting, Opening times, Getting around, Accommodation, Eating and drinking, Public holidays and festivals, Shopping, Arts and entertainment, Activities, Photography, Media and communications, Cultural etiquette, Travelling positively PART TWO THE GUIDE Chapter 3 Sarajevo History, Getting there and away, Getting around, Tourist information, Tour operators, Where to stay, Where to eat and drink, Entertainment and nightlife, Shopping, Other practicalities, What to see and do Chapter 4 Around Sarajevo Excursions from Sarajevo, To the east and south of Sarajevo, Highland villages, Ski centres Chapter 5 East Bosnia Lower Drina, Upper Drina, Tara River Chapter 6 Herzegovina Mostar, Excursions from Mostar, Medugorje, Capljina, Neum, Stolac, Ljubinje, Trebinje, Ravno, Konjic, Jablanica, Prozor and Ramsko Lake, West Bosnia Chapter 7 Central Bosnia History, Getting there and away, Zenica, Kraljeva Sutjeska, Visoko, Kresevo, Fojnica, Vares, Olovo, Travnik, Vlasic Mountain, Prusac, Pliva River Region Chapter 8 Northwest Bosnia Banja Luka, Bihac Chapter 9 Northeast Bosnia Tuzla, Excursions from Tuzla, Bijeljina, East Posavina, Doboj, Teslic, Tesanj, Maglaj, Zavidovici Appendix 1 Language Appendix 2 Further Information Index

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Bosnia & Hercegovina

Craggily beautiful Bosnia and Hercegovina is most intriguing for its East-meets-West atmosphere born of blended Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian histories filtered through a Southern Slavic lens. Many still associate the country with the heartbreaking civil war of the 1990s, and the scars from that time are all too visible. But today's visitors are likely to remember the country for its deep, unassuming human warmth, its beautiful mountains, numerous medieval castle ruins, raftable rivers, impressive waterfalls and bargain-value skiing.

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Bosnia & Herzegovina (Bradt Travel Guide) Paperback – June 18, 2013

There is a newer edition of this item:.

A new edition of the only comprehensive English language guide to Bosnia and Herzegovina. Bosnia and Herzegovina has emerged from the ashes of war to become one of the most exotic destinations of southeast Europe, an ancient crossroads where east meets west. The updated guide takes you through mountains, thick forests, deep river canyons, medieval villages and cities. It has something for everyone, from mountain biking, rafting and world class hiking to festivals, pilgrimages and a cosmopolitan café culture.

• Print length 288 pages
• Language English
• Publisher Bradt Travel Guides
• Publication date June 18, 2013
• ISBN-10 1841624497
• ISBN-13 978-1841624495
• See all details

Editorial Reviews

About the author.

Tim Clancy has lived in Bosnia and Herzegovina since he went there as an aid worker during the war. He currently works as a freelance travel writer and an outside tourism consultant to the EC Delegation to Bosnia and Herzegovina. Tim speaks the local languages fluently and regularly travels throughout the country as part of his community development work. 

Product details

• Publisher ‏ : ‎ Bradt Travel Guides; Fourth edition (June 18, 2013)
• Language ‏ : ‎ English
• Paperback ‏ : ‎ 288 pages
• ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 1841624497
• ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-1841624495
• Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 13.1 ounces

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Wander-Lush

Explore Bosnia & Herzegovina: The Ultimate Bosnia Travel Guide

• Europe / The Balkans

When you go to Sarajevo, what you experience is life. Mike Leigh

Why you’ll love Bosnia and Herzegovina

Bosnia and Herzegovina (BiH for short) is often associated with loss and death. From the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand which set WWI in motion, to the Siege of Sarajevo and the Srebrenica massacre, BiH has long been viewed as a nation torn apart at the seams. But now more than ever, it’s equally a place of new beginnings and budding creativity – a place where you can feel life itself tingling on your skin.

In 1992, citizens voted in a monumental independence referendum and Bosnia and Herzegovina gained her independence. The dotted lines of autonomous republics, the intricate political system (often named the most complex in the world), and the very presence of the ‘and’ in the country’s name are a clue to the kind of diversity and contrasts you can expect today.

If there’s one thing I learned after five weeks travelling around BiH, it’s that the warmth of the people and the illustrious beauty of the landscape are the strongest uniting forces.

Bosnia travel essentials

Please note: Some of these links are affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). Learn more .

April/May or October/November (spring/fall shoulder seasons).

How long in Bosnia?

2 full days for Sarajevo; 5-7 days for the highlights; 10 days to see everything.

Daily budget

35-50 USD per person per day (mid-range hotel; local meals; bus fares; museum tickets).

Getting there

Fly into Sarajevo or Tuzla; drive/bus/taxi from any neighbouring country.

Visa-free for most passports (stay up to 90 days).

Getting around

Hire a car; use intercity buses and vans.

Where to stay

Hostels, family-run guesthouses or hotels.

Tours & experiences

Market tours, UNESCO sites and wild landscapes.

Things to do in Bosnia and Herzegovina

In Sarajevo , BiH’s capital city, the line where Asia stops and Europe begins (or is the other way around?) is literally drawn in the sand. A plaque on the pavement separates the Austro-Hungarian-built part of the city, with its market halls and plasterwork facades, from the Ottoman quarter, with its public fountains and singing minarets.

Sarajevo’s Old Bazaar , Bascarsija , is pure magic. As you dart between tea houses, carpet shops and Buregdzinicas (bakeries specialising in burek ), you move to the rhythm of tradesmen who still pound bronze with the same fervour as they did centuries ago.

As you cross the stone bridges in Mostar , Visegrad and Konjic , you begin to understand that not only is each one a proxy for a devastating chapter of Balkan history (which every traveller must take the time to learn about), it’s also a symbolic bridge between past, present and future.

From Jajce , the city with roaring waterfall at its centre to Pocitelj , an almost-abandoned Ottoman town, Banja Luka , the country’s second city to the sweet Trebinje ; between the Dinaric Alps , the Pliva Lakes and the ambling River Drina , Bosnia and Herzegovina has a way of making you feel alive.

Explore Bosnia and Herzegovina

Discover all the best things to do in Bosnia with my latest travel guides.

Sarajevo Through the Lens: 42 Magical Photos of Bosnia & Herzegovina’s Capital

How to Spend One Day in Mostar: 24 Hours in Bosnia and Herzegovina’s Most Captivating City

The Best Bosnian Food: 20 Delicious Things to Eat & Drink in Bosnia and Herzegovina

12 Things to do in Banja Luka, Bosnia & Herzegovina’s Second City (Republika Srpska)

12 Best Sarajevo Day Trips for History, Nature & Culture

5 Things I Learned on a Sarajevo Food Tour

Pliva Lakes & Watermills: A Guide to Visiting From Jajce

A Quick Guide to Jajce, Bosnia & Herzegovina’s Cascade City

Mostar to Pocitelj: A Complete Guide to Visiting the Ottoman-era Open Air Museum

An Epic Day Trip from Sarajevo to Visegrad, Borak Stecci and Mokra Gora

My bosnia favourites.

Via Dinarica Trail (Slovenia to Kosovo via BiH).

Must-eat meal

Tufahija (baked apple) with a Bosnian coffee.

local experience

Watching the sunset over Sarajevo from Bijela Tabija.

best souvenir

A copper tray or coffee pot from the Sarajevo Old Bazaar.

The Ultimate Bosnia Travel Guide: Tips And Must-See Attractions!

• by Nermin Mesic
• October 18, 2023

Planning a trip to Bosnia and Herzegovina can be daunting with so many amazing sites to see. Known for its rich history , diverse culture , and beautiful landscapes , this country is truly a hidden gem in the heart of Europe.

This ultimate travel guide will equip you with valuable insights — from essential travel basics to must-see attractions and delicious local cuisine —making your itinerary planning stress-free.

Ready to create unforgettable memories in Bosnia? Let’s dive in!

Key Takeaways

• Understand the visa requirements and general safety tips before traveling to Bosnia and Herzegovina to ensure a hassle-free and enjoyable trip.
• Consider visiting during the summer peak season (June to September) for sunny weather, or in spring or autumn for milder temperatures and fewer crowds.
• Learn basic greetings and phrases in Bosnian as English is not widely spoken outside of major tourist areas . Respect local customs by dressing modestly, especially when visiting religious sites or smaller towns.
• Exchange your currency to Convertible Mark (KM) at banks or designated exchange offices. Bosnia is a budget-friendly destination with an average daily cost of $22.25, including food ($5.48) and accommodation ($12.50).
• Choose from various transportation options such as buses, trains, car rentals, or public transportation to explore different cities in Bosnia easily.

Travel Basics for Bosnia and Herzegovina

Visa requirements are essential to consider before traveling to Bosnia and Herzegovina, and it is important to be aware of general safety tips and areas to avoid during your trip.

Visa requirements

Travel regulations vary widely, making the Visa requirements a critical aspect of planning your visit to Bosnia. Most travelers from North America, Central and South America, as well as Europeans and Irish citizens can enjoy visa-free travel for up to 90 days within a six-month period in Bosnia.

British nationals also receive this same exemption under the country’s immigration rules. To ensure easy entry into Bosnia and Herzegovina, carry a valid passport with you at all times during your trip.

Having thorough understanding of these rules makes sure that your duration of stay is hassle-free and enjoyable without any legal hiccups along the way.

General safety Tips

Prioritizing your safety is paramount while embarking on your Bosnia and Herzegovina adventure.

• Steer clear of off – road exploration , especially abandoned buildings to ensure personal security.
• Always have travel insurance ready for unexpected situations that may arise during your trip.
• Exercise high level of caution while driving, particularly in areas outside major cities.
• Utilize the reliable RAC guide for comprehensive information on road safety in Bosnia and Herzegovina.
• Equip yourself with key details about the country before embarking on your journey, including its history, culture, and environment .
• Be particularly cautious in rural areas where infrastructure could be lacking or neglected.
• Adopt precautionary measures such as keeping emergency contacts handy and sharing your itinerary with someone back home.
• Familiarize yourself with local laws, norms and customs to avoid inadvertent violations.

Areas to avoid

Travelers should be cautious while visiting crowded tourist destinations in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Most incidents of petty crime occur in these areas, so maintain awareness of your possessions at all times.

It’s also important to steer clear from abandoned buildings if you stray off the beaten path; they might harbor potential hazards . Although it’s rare for mishaps to happen, exercising a degree of caution ensures a safe travel experience.

Take note that despite requiring vigilance in certain parts, most of Bosnia and Herzegovina is generally safe for tourists.

Best Time to Visit Bosnia and Herzegovina

The best time to visit Bosnia and Herzegovina depends on the type of experience you want. The country experiences four distinct seasons, with summers being warm and sunny, while winters can be cold and snowy.

Peak tourist times are during the summer months of June to August when the weather is most favorable for outdoor activities and sightseeing. However, visiting in spring or autumn can offer milder temperatures and fewer crowds, making it a great option for those seeking a more relaxed atmosphere.

Seasons and weather

The best time to visit Bosnia and Herzegovina is during the summer peak season from June to September. During this time, you can expect hot and dry weather , perfect for outdoor activities like hiking and exploring the beautiful countryside.

If you prefer milder temperatures, February and March are ideal months to visit as there is more sunshine and clearer days. In winter, Bosnia and Herzegovina experiences snowy winters with snow lasting up to six months in some areas.

However, the winters are generally milder compared to the inland and mountainous regions of the country. So whether you’re looking for sun-soaked adventures or a winter wonderland experience , Bosnia has it all!

Peak tourist times

The best time to visit Bosnia and Herzegovina is during May, June, and early September. These months offer the optimal tourist experience with pleasant weather and fewer crowds . If you prefer a quieter travel experience, February and March are also great months to visit.

However, if you don’t mind the summer crowds, June to September is considered the peak tourist season in Bosnia-Herzegovina. During this time, popular destinations like Sarajevo and Mostar can get quite busy with tourists from all over the world .

To avoid the crowds in Mostar, it’s recommended to visit in May, June, or September when the number of tourists is relatively lower.

Cultural Considerations

Bosnia and Herzegovina has a diverse cultural landscape, with multiple languages spoken and various ethnicities and religions represented.

Language and communication

The official languages of Bosnia are Bosnian, Serbian, and Croatian. These languages are mutually intelligible , which means that speakers of one language can generally understand the others.

However, English is not widely spoken in Bosnia, especially outside of major tourist areas. In Sarajevo, the capital city, you may find more people who understand English in tourist establishments and among younger generations.

It’s a good idea to learn a few basic greetings and phrases in Bosnian to communicate with locals, as English proficiency may be limited in rural areas or smaller towns .

Ethnicity and religion

Bosnia is a country with a rich cultural heritage and diverse population . Ethnicity and religion have played significant roles in shaping the history and politics of Bosnia. The majority of Bosnians are Muslim , and religion often intertwines with ethnicity in this region.

After gaining independence, Bosnia became home to various religious and ethnic groups who came together to form a unique blend of traditions and customs. The influences of both Austro-Hungarian and Ottoman cultures can be seen throughout the country, creating an intriguing fusion of East-meets-West .

Understanding these historical influences can help visitors appreciate the local customs while exploring different regions in Bosnia.

Knowing the dress code in Bosnia and Herzegovina is important to ensure that you respect the local culture and customs. While there is no strict dress code, it is advisable to dress modestly , especially when visiting religious sites or smaller towns.

For female travelers, it’s recommended to cover your shoulders and knees . However, in larger cities like Sarajevo, you can opt for more casual attire during the day. At night and in nightclub settings, more revealing clothes may be acceptable.

When heading to the beach, feel free to wear bikinis as they are accepted at beaches in Bosnia. Just remember to be respectful of cultural norms and always consider your surroundings before choosing your attire.

Currency and Prices

In Bosnia and Herzegovina, the currency is the Convertible Mark (BAM). Money exchange is available at banks and exchange offices. Average prices for food, accommodation, and transportation are affordable compared to other European countries.

Curious to know more about the currency and prices in Bosnia? Keep reading!

Money exchange

Bosnia and Herzegovina operates mostly on a cash-based economy , so it’s important to have enough cash with you when traveling here. The official currency is the convertible mark (KM), and you can exchange your foreign currency for KM at banks or designated exchange offices.

Keep in mind that traveler’s cheques are only accepted at select banks. It’s wise to be aware of the current bank exchange rates and any fees associated with currency conversion. If you need more cash while you’re in Bosnia, there are ATMs available where you can make a cash withdrawal using your travel money card or credit/debit card.

Just remember to check if there are any additional fees for international withdrawals from your bank.

Average prices for food, accommodation, etc.

Bosnia and Herzegovina is known to be a budget-friendly travel destination. The average daily cost for a trip is approximately $22.25.

Specifically, in the capital city Sarajevo, the average food cost slightly increases to 56 KM per day. Counting in other expenses like transportation, sightseeing, and miscellaneous costs, your daily spend could go up. However, with smart planning, it is entirely possible to enjoy your Bosnian vacation without breaking your budget.

Transportation in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Getting around Bosnia and Herzegovina is easy with various transportation options such as buses, trains, and car rentals. Explore the efficient transportation system and discover the convenience of traveling within the country.

Read more about getting around in Bosnia and Herzegovina to make your trip hassle-free.

Getting to Bosnia and Herzegovina

Bosnia and Herzegovina is relatively small and easy to get around , making it a great destination for travelers. Buses are the most convenient mode of transportation between cities in Bosnia and Herzegovina, with regular routes connecting major towns .

If you prefer to travel by train, there are also options available for traveling between cities. Public transportation is easily accessible in popular destinations like Sarajevo and Mostar, allowing visitors to explore these places without any hassle.

For those who want more flexibility and independence, renting a car is another option for getting around Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Transportation options

Bosnia and Herzegovina has various transportation options to help you explore the country easily. Here are some of the ways you can get around:

• Public transportation : Bosnia and Herzegovina has facilities for road, rail, and air transport, allowing for easy movement between cities and towns.
• Highways : The country has five international road routes and 20 state highways , making it convenient to travel by car or bus.
• Railways : The larger cities in Bosnia and Herzegovina are connected by train, providing a comfortable and scenic way to travel within the country.
• Airport : If you prefer air travel, there are airports in major cities like Sarajevo and Mostar, offering connections to other parts of Europe.
• Bus services : Bus services in Bosnia and Herzegovina are improving and can usually get you to your desired destination efficiently.
• Taxi services : Taxis are available in most cities, allowing for convenient transportation within urban areas or for shorter trips.
• Local tours : To visit natural attractions such as waterfalls, taking a local tour or hiring a guide is recommended since public transport may not be available.

Car rentals

Renting a car in Bosnia and Herzegovina is highly recommended for exploring the country’s diverse attractions. With significant distances between destinations and limited public transport options , having a rental car provides convenience and freedom to discover off-the-beaten-track locations that are not well-served by buses or trains.

If you’re flying into Sarajevo Airport, you can easily find car rental services there, allowing you to start your adventure right away. Just remember to obtain an international driving permit before renting a car. in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Don’t miss out on the opportunity to experience the convenience of traveling at your own pace and uncovering hidden gems in this beautiful country.

Taxi services

Official taxis in Bosnia and Herzegovina, especially in Sarajevo and major towns, are a reliable mode of transportation for travelers. These taxis are regulated and have meters to ensure fair pricing.

It’s important to note that taxi drivers from the Republika Srpska region may refuse to drive to certain destinations, so it’s always a good idea to clarify your destination before getting into the taxi.

If you’re looking for recommendations or want to compare prices, Tripadvisor has 137 listings for taxis and shuttles in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

When arriving at the airport in Sarajevo, there are two options for getting into the city: bus or taxi . The bus is generally the cheapest option and provides easy connectivity between the airport and downtown Sarajevo.

However, if you prefer more convenience or have heavy luggage, taking a taxi is also an option. Just keep in mind that it may cost more than taking the bus.

Accommodation Options in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Recommended Hotels, Vacation rentals, and Hostels are available for accommodation in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Recommended Hotels

The Courtyard by Marriott Sarajevo , located near the History Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina, is highly recommended. Guests have praised its excellent service and comfortable rooms.

• The Hotel-Restaurant Kriva Cuprija is another top-rated option. It offers a charming atmosphere, delicious food, and convenient location near the Old Bridge in Mostar.
• Pansion Villa Cardak is also highly rated for its friendly staff, cozy accommodations, and proximity to the historic Stari Grad in Mostar.
• If you prefer staying closer to nature, consider Hotel Plivsko Jezero. It offers stunning lake views and easy access to the beautiful Pliva Waterfalls in Jajce.
• For a unique experience, check out Guesthouse Halvat in Neum. It provides comfortable rooms with sea views and is just steps away from the beach.

Vacation rentals

Looking for affordable accommodations in Bosnia and Herzegovina? Consider vacation rentals! Here are some key facts to know:

• Vacation rentals in Bosnia and Herzegovina start at $36 per night.
• Mostar is a popular destination for vacation rentals in Bosnia and Herzegovina.
• The Ultimate Bosnia Travel Guide provides information on vacation rentals in the country.
• The guide offers tips on planning the perfect visit to Mostar , including vacation rental options.

Hostels and guesthouses

Looking for budget-friendly accommodation options in Bosnia and Herzegovina? Consider staying at hostels and guesthouses . These affordable lodgings provide a great option for travelers on a tight budget. Check out the following options:

• Backpacker hostels : Ideal for solo travelers or those looking to meet fellow adventurers, backpacker hostels offer shared dormitory-style accommodations at inexpensive rates .
• Budget-friendly guesthouses : Offering private rooms at affordable prices, budget-friendly guesthouses are a comfortable and wallet-friendly choice for travelers seeking more privacy.
• Economy lodging : If you prefer a simple yet cozy place to stay, economy lodgings such as bed and breakfasts or small family-run hotels can be a great option.
• Affordable hostels : Similar to backpacker hostels, affordable hostels provide shared accommodations but with added amenities like communal kitchens and social spaces .

Must-Try Bosnian Cuisine

When visiting Bosnia, make sure to indulge in the country’s delicious and unique cuisine. Here are some must-try food and drinks that will tantalize your taste buds:

• Ćevapi : These are small grilled sausages made from a mixture of beef and lamb, served with flatbread. It’s a staple dish in Bosnia and is often enjoyed with onions and sour cream.
• Burek : A popular pastry dish filled with minced meat, cheese, or spinach. It’s crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, making it a perfect snack or breakfast option.
• Pita : A savory pie made with thin layers of phyllo dough filled with meat, cheese, or vegetables. It’s a delicious and filling dish that you can find in most cafes and bakeries. Tip: Try in the morning when hot with a yoghurt.
• Bosnian Coffee : Don’t miss out on the traditional Bosnian coffee experience. Served in a small copper pot called a džezva, it’s a strong and aromatic coffee that is enjoyed slowly.
• Krempita : A mouth-watering custard slice dessert made with crispy filo pastry and creamy vanilla custard filling. It’s a sweet treat that will satisfy your sweet tooth.
• Bosanski lonac : A hearty meat stew cooked with a variety of meats such as beef, lamb, and chicken, along with vegetables. It’s slow-cooked to perfection and is bursting with flavors.
• Kajmak : A creamy dairy spread made from slow-cooked milk. It’s often enjoyed with bread or as a topping on traditional dishes.
• Baklava : A sweet pastry made with layers of phyllo dough, nuts, honey, and syrup. It’s a rich and indulgent dessert that will leave you wanting more.
• Sarma : Stuffed cabbage rolls filled with a mixture of rice and meat. It’s a comforting and flavorful dish that is often served during special occasions.
• Tufahija : A traditional Bosnian dessert made with poached apples stuffed with walnuts, sugar, and cinnamon, topped with whipped cream. It’s a refreshing and sweet treat to end your meal.
• Sarajevsko Pivo : Beer lovers will appreciate the locally brewed Sarajevsko Pivo. This light, refreshing lager pairs well with the flavors of Bosnian cuisine.

Immerse yourself in the culinary delights of Bosnia and discover the rich flavors and traditions of the country’s food and drinks. Don’t miss the opportunity to try these must-try dishes during your visit. Bon appétit!

Recommended restaurants

Here are some recommended restaurants in Bosnia and Herzegovina:

• Dveri – Known for its cozy atmosphere and delicious Bosnian cuisine , Dveri is a must-visit restaurant in Sarajevo.
• Mala Kuhinja – If you’re looking for traditional Bosnian dishes with a modern twist , Mala Kuhinja is the place to go.
• Ćevabdžinica Željo – This popular eatery specializes in cevapi, a traditional Bosnian dish made of grilled minced meat served with pita bread, onions, and sour cream.
• Inat Kuća – Located in Sarajevo’s Old Town, Inat Kuća offers a mix of Bosnian and international dishes along with stunning views of the city.
• Restaurant Stari Grad – Situated in Mostar’s picturesque Old Town, this restaurant serves up authentic Bosnian cuisine with a focus on fresh local ingredients .

Natural and Outdoor Attractions

Explore Bosnia and Herzegovina’s breathtaking national parks, stunning waterfalls, and thrilling outdoor activities. From the pristine beauty of Plitvice Lakes to adrenaline-pumping white-water rafting on the Neretva River, there is something for everyone.

Don’t miss out on experiencing the natural wonders of this incredible country! Read more to discover all the outdoor adventures waiting for you in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

National parks

Bosnia and Herzegovina is blessed with three stunning national parks: Sutjeska National Park, Kozara National Park, and Una National Park . These natural wonders offer breathtaking landscapes and unique experiences for nature enthusiasts.

One of the highlights is Una National Park, which boasts 16 lakes, 2 rivers, and numerous waterfalls and cascades. It’s a haven for outdoor activities such as hiking, biking, kayaking, and rafting.

If you’re looking to immerse yourself in the beauty of nature while visiting Bosnia and Herzegovina, these national parks are definitely worth exploring.

Bosnia and Herzegovina is home to some incredible natural attractions, including beautiful waterfalls. One of the must-see waterfalls in the country is the Kravice Waterfalls , located on the Trebižat River .

With a height of approximately 25 meters , these falls are often compared to a mini-Niagara Falls . They are truly a sight to behold! But don’t stop there – Bosnia and Herzegovina boasts several other stunning waterfalls such as Pliva Waterfall , Krupa Water Falls , Strbacki Buk, Bliha Waterfall, Skakavac and Tra le.

Whether you’re an avid nature lover or simply want to experience the breathtaking beauty of these cascades while exploring Bosnia, visiting these waterfalls should definitely be on your travel itinerary.

Rafting and outdoor activities

Bosnia Herzegovina offers thrilling rafting experiences for thrill seekers and outdoor enthusiasts. Here are some popular outdoor activities in Bosnia Herzegovina:

• White water rafting : Experience the adrenaline rush as you navigate through the crystal clear waters of rivers like Una, Neretva, and Tara.
• Skiing : Hit the slopes in one of Bosnia’s ski resorts like Jahorina and Bjelašnica during the winter months for a thrilling skiing adventure.
• Mountain hiking : Explore the stunning landscapes and untouched nature by embarking on hiking trails in places like Sutjeska National Park and Vlašić Mountain.
• Ethnic village exploration : Immerse yourself in Bosnian culture by visiting traditional villages like Lukomir and Počitelj, where you can learn about local customs and traditions.
• Cycling : Discover the beauty of Bosnia on two wheels by cycling through scenic routes such as the Via Dinarica trail or around Sarajevo’s Olympic Mountains.

Must-See Attractions in Sarajevo

Explore the rich history and cultural heritage of Sarajevo through its must-see attractions, including historical sites, museums, and cultural attractions.

Museums and Cultural attractions

Immerse yourself in Sarajevo’s rich history and vibrant cultural scene with a visit to its must-see museums and cultural attractions. Discover the city’s fascinating past and diverse heritage through these top sites:

• Gallery 11/07/95 – Commemorating the victims of the Siege of Sarajevo , this gallery showcases powerful exhibits documenting the devastating events of the Bosnian War.
• War Tunnel Museum – Step back in time and explore the underground tunnel that provided a lifeline for residents during the siege . Learn about the city’s resilience and survival strategies.
• National Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina – Delve into the country’s art, archaeology, and history at this renowned museum. Marvel at ancient artifacts and gain insights into Bosnia’s cultural heritage.
• Historical Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina – Trace Sarajevo’s timeline from prehistoric times to modern-day through a diverse collection of exhibits, including relics from Ottoman rule and World War II .
• Gazi Husrev-bey Mosque – A symbol of Islamic culture, this 16th-century mosque is one of Sarajevo’s most important religious landmarks. Take in its stunning architecture and soak up the spiritual atmosphere.
• Jewish Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina – Learn about Sarajevo’s Jewish community and their contributions to the city’s history. Explore exhibitions on Sephardic culture, Jewish life during WWII, and interfaith dialogue.
• Latin Bridge – This iconic bridge holds significant historical importance as it was where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated, igniting World War I. Admire its elegant design while contemplating its profound impact on global history.
• Svrzo House – Step inside this well-preserved Ottoman-era house to experience traditional Bosnian architecture and lifestyle from centuries ago.
• Ars Aevi Museum of Contemporary Art – Indulge your artistic side at this modern art museum, which features a unique collection of contemporary works by renowned international artists.
• Eternal Flame – Visit the Eternal Flame monument in the city center, honoring fallen soldiers and symbolizing Sarajevo’s resilience in the face of adversity.

Exploring Mostar and its Medieval Charm

Explore the enchanting medieval charm of Mostar with its iconic Old Bridge (Stari Most) and picturesque Old Town (Stari Grad).

Old bridge (Stari Most)

The Old Bridge (Stari Most) in Mostar is a historical bridge that was constructed during the 16th century . Designed by Mimar Hayruddin, it showcases the beautiful Balkan Islamic architecture.

This iconic landmark holds immense medieval significance and serves as a cultural heritage site for Bosnia. The Old Bridge is considered a symbol of Mostar and is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site .

Although it was destroyed during the Bosnian War, it has been meticulously reconstructed to its original design through architectural restoration efforts. Today, visitors can admire this stunning bridge, which represents resilience and peace in the face of conflict.

Old Town (Stari Grad)

Mostar’s Old Town, known as Stari Grad , is a captivating historic district nestled on the banks of the Neretva River. It boasts traditional Turkish architecture and is best known for its iconic landmark – the Old Bridge, or Stari Most .

This bridge holds great cultural significance and has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site . When you wander through the charming streets of the Old Town, you’ll be transported back in time with its centuries-old buildings and winding cobblestone pathways .

The vibrant atmosphere, coupled with its rich history and stunning architecture, makes Mostar’s Old Town an absolute must-visit when exploring Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Discovering the Natural Beauty of Jajce and Pliva Waterfalls

Explore the stunning natural beauty of Jajce and Pliva Waterfalls, including the impressive Jajce Fortress and the picturesque Pliva Lakes and Watermills.

Jajce Fortress

The 13th-century Jajce Fortress is a must-see historic site in the town of Jajce, Bosnia and Herzegovina. From here, you can enjoy breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding area, including the town itself and the magnificent waterfalls.

The fortress is well-preserved, with impressive walls, towers, and gates that transport you back in time. Inside, you’ll find fascinating attractions such as a watermill and catacombs .

If you’re a photography enthusiast, this place is perfect for capturing stunning views and architectural details. Don’t miss out on exploring this incredible piece of history during your visit to Bosnia.

Pliva Lakes and Watermills

Pliva Lakes and Watermills are a must-visit destination for nature enthusiasts in central Bosnia and Herzegovina. These natural wonders offer breathtaking beauty with their pristine waters and picturesque surroundings .

The Great and Small Pliva Lakes provide a serene escape where visitors can relax, swim or go boating. Nearby is the town of Jajce, known for its historical significance and stunning landscapes.

One of the main attractions here is the Pliva Waterfall , which cascades down an impressive 22 meters right in the city center . What makes it even more unique is that it’s the only waterfall in the world situated within a city center.

Diving into the History of Srebrenica and the Potočari Memorial Site

Explore the tragic history of Srebrenica and pay tribute at the Potočari Memorial Site, which serves as a solemn reminder of the genocide that took place here during the Balkan War.

Srebrenica Genocide Memorial Center

The Srebrenica Genocide Memorial Center is a deeply significant historical site in Bosnia. It was established in October 2000 and is located at the site of the Srebrenica massacre , which took place during the Bosnian War.

The memorial center features a cemetery where victims of the genocide are buried, and it also includes exhibits and imagery related to the history of Srebrenica and the genocide. What makes visiting this memorial even more powerful is that guided tours are often led by survivors, providing visitors with firsthand accounts and a deeper understanding of this tragic event.

At the memorial, you will see the names of 6,504 victims carved into stone plaques as a haunting reminder of their lives lost.

Srebrenica-Potočari Memorial and Cemetery

The Srebrenica-Potočari Memorial and Cemetery , located in the village of Potočari , is a significant site for understanding the history of Bosnia. It is officially known as the Srebrenica–Potočari Memorial and Cemetery for the Victims of the 1995 Genocide .

This memorial center consists of three areas: the Memorial, the Cemetery, and the Museum . The on-site cemetery features a memorial wall with the names of all 8,372 victims engraved .

Additionally, it provides one of the largest open-air Muslim prayer spaces . Visiting this physical memorial allows us to remember and honor those who lost their lives during this tragedy , reflecting on its historical significance in Bosnia’s past.

Coastal Escape to Neum

Enjoy a relaxing coastal getaway in Neum, where you can soak up the sun on beautiful beaches, indulge in delicious local seafood cuisine, and explore nearby islands and towns through exciting excursions.

Beaches and water activities

Neum offers a range of beaches and water activities for visitors to enjoy. The town’s beaches stretch along almost 6 km of coastline and have crystal clear waters . Neum is considered Europe’s biggest coastal secret, a hidden gem for beach lovers. Here are some beach activities you can enjoy in Neum:

• Swimming in the refreshing waters
• Sunbathing on the sandy beaches
• Trying out various water sports
• Exploring the shoreline on a leisurely walk
• Relaxing and enjoying the scenic coastal views

Local seafood cuisine

Neum, a coastal town in Bosnia and Herzegovina, offers a delightful culinary fusion of Mediterranean and Balkan flavors . When it comes to food, Neum is renowned for its seafood delicacies and grilled specialties.

Being situated on the Adriatic Sea, Neum provides an abundance of fresh seafood options that are sure to satisfy any seafood lover’s palate. One must-try restaurant is Restoran Laguna, known for serving the best local seafood cuisine in town.

The seafood dishes in Neum are highly regarded for their honesty and fair prices, ensuring you get a true taste of the sea with every bite. So if you’re visiting Neum, make sure to indulge in their mouthwatering coastal cuisine and experience the Mediterranean influence on Bosnian gastronomy firsthand.

Excursions to nearby islands and towns

Neum, a town in Bosnia and Herzegovina, offers exciting excursions to nearby islands and towns. Here are some must-visit destinations for those looking to explore beyond Neum:

• Mljet Island : Explore the stunning Mljet Island and its lush National Park. Experience the untouched nature, picturesque landscapes, and the famous saltwater lakes of Veliko and Malo Jezero.
• Korčula Island : Visit the charming island of Korčula, known for its medieval architecture, vineyards, and olive groves. Don’t miss the opportunity to walk along Marco Polo’s supposed birthplace.
• Dubrovnik : Cross the border into Croatia and discover the magnificent city of Dubrovnik. Explore its ancient walls, historic Old Town, breathtaking views from Mount Srđ, and soak up the vibrant atmosphere.
• Ston : Take a short trip to Ston, famous for its impressive defensive walls—the second-longest in the world—and delicious oysters. Walk along these ancient fortifications or enjoy fresh seafood delicacies by the coast.
• Blagaj : Head inland to Blagaj and visit the enchanting Dervish monastery nestled next to a crystal clear river spring. Marvel at its unique blend of Ottoman architecture and natural beauty.
• Pocitelj : Discover the well-preserved medieval village of Pocitelj with its picturesque stone houses and enchanting hilltop fortress. Immerse yourself in centuries-old history as you wander through this captivating place.
• Mostar : While not an island or town per se, a day trip to Mostar is a must when visiting Neum. Experience the diverse culture as you admire the iconic Stari Most bridge and explore the atmospheric Old Town.

Plan your ultimate adventure to Bosnia and Herzegovina with “The Ultimate Bosnia Travel Guide: Tips, Itineraries, And Must-See Attractions.” Discover the country’s rich cultural heritage , stunning landscapes , and delicious cuisine .

Whether you’re exploring historical sites in Sarajevo or diving into the natural beauty of Jajce and Pliva Waterfalls , this guide has everything you need for an unforgettable trip.

Get ready for an immersive experience in a country that offers something for everyone.

1. What are some must-see attractions in Bosnia?

Some must-see attractions in Bosnia include the historic cities of Sarajevo and Mostar, the stunning Kravica Waterfalls, and the picturesque village of Blagaj.

2. How many days should I plan for my trip to Bosnia?

To fully explore the major attractions in Bosnia, it is recommended to plan a trip of at least 7-10 days.

3. Are there any safety concerns when traveling to Bosnia?

While overall considered safe for travelers, it’s always important to exercise caution and be aware of your surroundings. Keep an eye on local news updates and follow any travel advisories from your home country.

4. Do I need a visa to enter Bosnia as a tourist?

Tourists from many countries can enter Bosnia without a visa for stays up to 90 days. However, it’s best to check with the embassy or consulate before planning your trip.

5. Can you recommend any sample itineraries for exploring Bosnia?

Sure! Here are two sample itineraries:

– A 7-day itinerary could include visiting Sarajevo, Mostar, Jajce waterfall, Kravica Waterfalls, and exploring some national parks.

– A 10-day itinerary could include adding visits to places like Travnik, Visoko (Pyramids), Banja Luka or Trebinje along with Sarajevo and Mostar.

Bosnia and Herzegovina Travel Guide for First Timers

By: Author Betsy Wuebker

Use our Bosnia and Herzegovina travel guide for first timers for ideas and context. Our trip to Bosnia made it one of our favorite destinations.

So there we were, catching an airless bus out of Dubrovnik . Rumbling toward a place called Neum on a tiny finger of territory 20 kilometers long. This is the spit which gives modern-day Bosnia and Herzegovina its legal access to the Adriatic sea. We didn’t know what to think.

When they heard we were going to travel to Bosnia and Herzegovina, some people thought we were nuts. (Nothing new there.) Others asked if our Bosnia travel plan really was “safe.”

When we got there, at least one Bosnian wondered why we came at all. Apparently, Bosnia and Herzegovina trips aren’t all that common for Americans. But now that we’ve been, we want to return. This Bosnia and Herzegovina travel blog post will help you understand why.

This article contains affiliate links and/or references to our advertisers. We may receive compensation when you click on or make a purchase using these links.

Table of Contents

Ten things we couldn’t leave out of our Bosnia and Herzegovina Travel Guide for first timers:

1. getting in and out might seem a little difficult, but it’s really nothing to worry about..

As it turned out, we had a lot of time to think during our trip to Bosnia and Herzegovina. Getting in and around this part of the former Yugoslavia, and then out, takes a while. If you’re planning to travel to Bosnia, we recommend going by surface, actually.

Note: If you are planning a day trip from Croatia to Bosnia, check out my post Dubrovnik to Bosnia Day Trip: Easy Planning Guide

There’s always something better about an approach at ground level, seeing your destination mirage in the distance, drawing nearer to the moment when outskirts give way to the reality of place. It beats dropping in from the sky to have a look around and then jumping back out.

Be ready for thorough border processing at border crossings. You will be perused and your documents will be scanned a couple of times – coming out of wherever you came from and coming in. If you’re self-driving, be prepared for a much longer line at the checkpoints than if you’re on one of the international buses.

We just bought regular public transport tickets to Mostar at the Dubrovnik station. Online ticketing? Sorry, not available at that time. Mostar to Sarajevo? Same deal, pay in cash at the station in Mostar. Buses are frequent, amenities are hit and miss. Announcements we couldn’t understand were kindly translated by fellow travelers. Yep, they could probably tell by looking at us that we might need a little extra help. We felt rather solicitously cared for, as Americans of a “certain age.”

If you want a cushier experience getting to and seeing Mostar, you might want to sign on for a tour, particularly if you are coming from Croatia. Because this destination is one of the top things to experience from there, you will find a variety of experiences from which to choose:

You may want to look around for alternative transport options if you’re leaving Sarajevo, as we did. An independent van company we saw in a newspaper ad ended up offering a much more comfortable, air-conditioned experience at a fraction of the price on that leg.

We just needed to be willing to accept an indeterminate departure: the van would leave when its passenger quota was filled. No worries.

We checked out of our hotel, the kind young man at the front desk made several phone calls to confirm and reconfirm departure, and ran outside to help us with luggage when the van finally did arrive.

2. There’s a difference between Bosnians and Bosniaks.

Bosnia k s are an ethnic group. Bosnia n s are a nationality. Political affiliations have historically occurred along religious and ethnic lines: Bosnian Muslims, Serb Orthodox Christians, and Croat Catholics.

In the 1970s a political elite emerged via diplomatic service and Yugoslavia’s membership in the Non-Aligned Movement . After the death of Josip Broz Tito in 1980 and the demise of the Soviet Union, Yugoslavia’s individual nationalistic groups vied throughout the western Balkans for influence.

In the Bosnian National Assembly, ethnic tensions boiled over in a clash of attitudes favoring independence vs. remaining in the Yugoslav federation. Bosnian Serbs favored the federation, and independence was desired by Bosniaks and Bosnian Croats. This led to the Bosnian war in the early 1990s.

Today, the capital city of Sarajevo is often referred to as the “Jerusalem of Europe.” We found its multi-cultural atmosphere the most unique in all the capitals we have visited. Over the centuries, its status as a religious and political crossroads for conflict has been proven time and time again.

One of the best things to do in upon arrival is take a Sarajevo city tour. One of the Sarajevo walking tours will help you get oriented and plan your stay. Each of your senses will be impacted with the sights, sounds, and aromas of beautiful buildings, thriving outdoor markets, exotic foods and goods, and the regular calls to religious prayer.

3. Bosnia and Herzegovina may require more cash than you anticipated. Here’s why:

After World War II, when Tito and his partisans formed the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, Bosnia and Herzegovina was one of its six constituents. Up until 1992, Bosnia was prosperous: military defense industry and multi-national corporate presence brought economic strength. An upwardly-mobile Bosnian might have worked at Volkswagen, Coca-Cola, Marlboro, Holiday Inn, or been involved with the 1984 Olympic Winter Games.

Then war devastated the Bosnian economy and destroyed its physical infrastructure. Its GDP essentially collapsed, free falling by 60%. Much of the country’s production has yet to be restored. Unemployment is close to 40%, with no sign of real stimulus affecting political and economic inertia.

As you might expect with such conditions, there is a great deal of ingenious economic maneuvering. One of those is a free walking tour of Sarajevo. Our guide walked us through Sarajevo and revealed that while he held multiple graduate degrees in political science and diplomatic relations, he couldn’t find a job. Instead, he formed his Sarajevo walking tour company. With about 20 people in his tour that day, we estimated tips-only income might have equated to about $50 per hour. Paid in cash, of course.

We took several cash-only Sarajevo tours having discovered them only with the help of our Sarajevo hotel desk clerk. If you prefer to use a credit card and plan slightly in advance, there are variety of tours out of both Dubrovnik and Sarajevo that you can now book online .

The independent Bosnia and Herzegovina hotels at which we stayed either took only cash or had to be persuaded to accept payment by credit card. Whether this was due to an erratic banking environment or other bookkeeping-related reasons, we couldn’t say.

But it all worked out and we would not hesitate to stay again with our Sarajevo accommodation  Hotel Latinski Most . Clean and comfortable, the suggestions and help from the staff are what made our Sarajevo stay superb.

Smaller businesses and restaurants were cash-only operations as well. ATMs are plentiful, and our U.S. debit cards worked just fine.

4. The scale of famous places to visit in Bosnia and distances may be different than you expect. 

In the middle of Neum, our bus made a hard right, zig-zagging up and away toward Mostar. As the crow flies (across Google Maps) it’s not that great a distance between the two, less than 90km. Traffic, road conditions, and struggling uphill were bus-related challenges that led to a journey of more than 3 hours.

We could look across the river from our Sarajevo hotel to the place where the Archduke was assassinated . Somehow, we’d expected it to be a big plaza, where the assassins could have hidden in enormous crowds. It wasn’t; it was just a tiny nondescript little street corner with an old bridge next to it.

The hills from which Serbian forces fired on the streets of Sarajevo in the early 90s seemed all too close; the airport where the UN airlift off-loaded life-saving supplies is only a couple of kilometers from the city center.

The fresh market where 68 people were killed and 200 wounded by an artillery shell , a tipping point which led to NATO air strikes, is no larger than our favorite open-air market on the island of Kauai. Sarajevo’s market was open-air then, too. Now it has a protective roof and business goes on with the memories.

5. Is it safe to travel to Bosnia (2023)? Yes, the Bosnian war has been over for decades. That said, evidence of war is easy to see. 

Now might be just the best time to visit Bosnia and Herzegovina. The war has been over for decades and the energy in the country is positive. Your Bosnia travel itinerary can be more free and flexible than ever.

Background: Between 1990 and 1992, sovereignty was declared by various entities in the region and boycotted by others. An independence referendum was held with 63% turnout and 99.7% in favor; Serb nationalists didn’t vote at all. As admittance into the United Nations became pending in 1992, tensions escalated.

Neum, the little coastal town in which our bus turned inland, took artillery fire from Serb positions in March that year. A month later, a Serb attack on Sarajevo’s peace rally is the moment that is generally agreed catalyzed open warfare between the three major ethnic communities.

Bosniak civilians were targeted in all major cities, captured and displaced by Bosnian Serb forces and sympathizers. Both Serbian and Croatian interests sought to expand their respective borders. When government-sanctioned warfare began in 1993, non-Serbs suffered civil rights violations and ethnic cleansing, such as occurred in the Srebrenica massacre. The town of Srebrenica is located in what is now known as Republika Srpska, sister entity to the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

This genocide elicited a response from the United States and the international community in the form of a NATO bombing campaign while Croat and Bosnian allies pushed back against the Serbs. In 1995, by agreement between representatives of Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia and Serbia, the fighting stopped, with NATO peacekeeping forces deployed and eventually peace talks restoring a fairly civil society.

As we awaited dinner on our first night in Mostar (which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site), we picked up a coffee table-sized photography book at an adjacent restaurant table. Its images were taken during and right after the war.

The city was leveled, the beautiful Stari Most spanning the Neretva River, and the main mosque below it destroyed. The book itself was tattered, with a vintage aspect. We had to keep reminding ourselves that these events were younger than our children, whose childhoods seem like yesterday. 

We sought the perspective of our two young Bosnia guides in Sarajevo, and asked is Bosnia and Herzegovina safe to visit.

The first had spent the war years, which began when he was seven years old, attending a makeshift school in the basement of his apartment building. His teachers risked their lives to get to their students. His mother walked several kilometers to work, always in high heels: she “wanted to look good if today were to be her last.”

The second had spent childhood in Vienna with relatives who took his family in when the war broke out. No one ever expected things to endure over four years.

Both young men felt it was necessary to move on from the past; both acknowledged that personal losses might prove this impossible for others. They were both glad to see more Europeans taking Bosnia and Herzegovina vacations.

While this may be the best time to travel to Bosnia in over two decades, they accepted that political opinions vary in opposite directions depending upon whom you ask. These assessments were equal parts logic and forgiveness; we were humbled and impressed.

If you’re traveling to Bosnia, you may want to take a more meaningful deep dive into the war years with a guided tour which will take you to specific, prominent sites in Sarajevo. The perspective offered by your Bosnia tour guides who were personally impacted by the war will be sobering. As well, you will gain a better understanding of the issues which affect the country today.

The Sarajevo: Times of Misfortune bus tour begins with a panoramic view of the city from the White Fortress which sets the stage with background information as you go on to visit various places that figured prominently during the four-year  siege. Click here for more information and booking. You might find the Sarajevo: Balkans Dark Side and War Tour more geared to your particular interests and an increased understanding. This 5 out of 5 star reviewed tour takes a somewhat different approach with Skip the Line access to the Tunnel War Museum and Vidikovac viewing points. Click here for more information and booking.

Is Bosnia and Herzegovina safe for tourists who venture off the beaten path? “Official” sources warn that visiting Bosnia can be dangerous due to unexploded land mines and other residual ordnance. No doubt this is true. Certain areas are marked off-limits with forbidding signage. We encountered none.

The country has had thirty years to make more highly trafficked areas safe for passage. If you stick to paved highways and urban locations when you travel to Bosnia and Herzegovina, you’ll be fine. Even our foray on dirt and forest roads into the mountains above Sarajevo where Olympic ski runs and infrastructure still serve winter sports enthusiasts was without incident or any evidence.

6. Politics in Bosnia and Herzegovina? Things have always been complicated here, and they still are. 

Eastern Europe has long been the place where religions and empires intersected. Clashes and power struggles, boundary fluctuations, and regime changes since the sixth century have permeated the Bosnian identity and landscape. We were amazed how little our history classes had covered Balkan wars and significant events dating back to medieval times which had occurred in this region. As well, the influences of different religious sects and ideology – from pagan to modern Christianity and Islam – have left their mark.

Bosnia has had human inhabitants since Neolithic times. In the early Middle Ages, slavic tribes formed a confederation in this region during the first Migration Period in the 6th and 7th centuries. Roman Emperor Constantine designated Bosnia as an administrative area in the 10th century. Two hundred years later, it was formally established as a politically autonomous state within the Hungarian Crown. What followed until approximately 1391 was a series of power struggles between two prominent clans, with skirmishes and territory annexations. Following a 70 year decline, it was then annexed by the Ottoman Empire in 1463.

The Middle Ages are a fascinating period in this region. Thriving villages were protected by walled fortresses and natural geography. Tribal chieftains, Byzantine rulers, and Christian kings built imposing residences and added territory. Visit the medieval fortress at Tesanj, to which Bosnians refer as “the pearl of Bosnian tourism,” and the village of Vranduk and its citadel, which date to the 14th century, on the Age of Kings Tour from Sarajevo. Click here to book a day tour  to Tesanj and Vranduk from Sarajevo.

For a look at the cultural impact of ancient Muslim mysticism in Herzegovina, you’ll want to visit Blagaj. Older than Mostar, Blagaj has a Dervish monastery built around 1520, at the height of the Ottoman Empire, in a combination of Ottoman and Mediterranean style. The location is the site of an Illyrian fortress; Roman villages surrounding it were built during the Justinian era. Blagaj was an important medieval fortress and political seat during the Ottoman Empire.

Click here to get information and book a private day trip to Blagaj and the Kravice waterfalls from Mostar.

Today, there are multiple levels of political structure arising out of the 1990s war’s impact on the country’s ethnic groups. The national government is relatively weak, with decentralized decision-making in layers: geographic districts, cantons, municipalities and “official” cities. One of the main political objectives Bosnia and Herzegovina has at this time is integration within the European Union. Reforms are still in progress ahead of that affiliation.

Are practicalities in daily life affected by this complexity? Definitely. Rarely, we were told, does anything get done at satisfactory speed. Sometimes, it was shared, progress is made outside of requirements. Other times, projects are indefinitely halted. We can all relate how “decision by committee” affects outcomes. This is the mire within which attempts to better and modernize the country operate under the BIH authorities.

7. You’ll enjoy wonderful Bosnian coffee, but you need to know the 1-2-3 rule.

Bosnian coffee is world famous for good reason. It’s strong, but not muddy as other regional coffees (Turkish coffee, anyone?) can be. As is common in this part of the world, coffee culture includes ritual preparation and ceremonial enjoyment.

Should you be invited in for coffee with a new friend in Bosnia you must understand Bosnia coffee etiquette – the rule of 3: the first coffee is always one of welcome.

The second coffee is brewed and poured as the signal for intimate conversation concerning whatever subject is at hand. It is during the second coffee that you and your host strengthen your bond by understanding (but not necessarily agreeing with) each other.

The third brew and serving? It’s last call. You will enjoy it together, but you also know you’ve been given the nod that once finished, you’ll be on your way.

8. The local Sarajevo beer is really good. 

Sarajevsko pivo has been brewed since 1864 in Sarajevo. Alert students of history will realize that the company was founded long before the decline of the Ottoman Empire’s hold over Bosnia. This disputes the notion that Islamic tradition and alcoholic beverages cannot co-exist.

Brewed with spring water from a source in the courtyard of the current building (which dates from 1893), this Sarajevo beer is a plucky little thirst quencher. We both liked it.

During the Siege of Sarajevo, citizens risked their lives under sniper fire to draw water from the brewery’s spring.

9. A trip to Bosnia and Herzegovina will convince you this is one of the most visually beautiful places in the Balkans region.

The scenery holds its own here, the country’s topography and natural beauty is comprised of a pleasing combination of mountains, hills, turquoise rivers and flatlands. Climate is Mediterranean in the south, while inland in Central Bosnia you’ll get hot summers with cold and snowy winters.

About 50% of Bosnia is forested, with wildlife such as bears, wolves, boar,   deer, falcons, and the rare chamois. One of the only two remaining primeval forests in Europe, the Perucica Forest Reserve is located within the oldest of Bosnia and Herzegovina’s national parks, filled with natural resources.

The famous Kravice waterfalls – known as Bosnia and Herzegovina’s “mini-Niagara” are a great day trip for scenic viewing, photography and swimming.

Click to arrange a private tour to Kravice from Mostar or to arrange a full day tour to Kravice from Sarajevo .

Not only is the geography scenic, but so is the evidence of man. Impossibly beautiful vistas with storybook qualities awaited us everywhere. We appreciated a meld of modern vibrancy and timelessness.

We also recognized that hardship meant the old ways might not live much longer. Our visit to Lukomir , the oldest and highest semi-nomadic village in the Dinaric Alps of Bosnia, remains one of the most memorable experiences we have had in all our travels. This is the only such village in Bosnia which was not destroyed by the Serbs in the 1990s war.

You can visit in the summer months from late May to early September, depending upon weather conditions. The village is located at very high altitude above the Bjelasnica Winter Olympics site on one of the numerous ranges near Sarajevo, so plan your attire accordingly. You will interact with locals, have a traditional meal and Bosnian coffee, and hike along the ridge of the Rakitnica Canyon, 800 meters deep.

This was our most memorable experience on our trip to Bosnia and Herzegovina. We highly recommend a tour visit to Lukomir.

Click here for more information and book your visit to Lukomir.

10. Your dollar goes a very long way and is very welcome. Bosnia and Herzegovina travel is inexpensive by Western standards.

Bosnia and Herzegovina tourism and ecotourism is on the rise. The southern Alpine terrain has wilderness and natural assets which attract skiers, bikers, hikers, whitewater enthusiasts and mountaineers.

Bosnia and Herzegovina has a rich history because it has been a cultural crossroads through the centuries. This provides a variety of architectural, religious, commercial, and interpersonal perspectives. Your dollar goes farther here than in neighboring Croatia and other Western Mediterranean and EU countries.

We were welcomed with open arms and a generosity of spirit, with high levels of comfort at very affordable rates. This combination made for wonderful experiences in this beautiful country. The value of Bosnia & Herzegovina travel for first timers and repeat visitors alike is highly demonstrable by any measure. Why not consider it?

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Masud Hannan

Saturday 9th of February 2019

Yes, Best blog on Bosnia. We are planning trip this summer. Can I rent a car from say Croatia or say Austria and travel to Mostar, Sarajevo etc. Are there cross border issues you are aware of. I plan to spend Two days in Bosnia. Thanks, Hannan

Betsy Wuebker

Monday 11th of February 2019

Hi Hannan - Yes, it's possible to rent a car in Croatia and take to Bosnia. Check with your rental agency for details.

23 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Europe Recommended By Travelers | Solitary Wanderer

Thursday 9th of June 2016

[…] Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina (Passing Thru) […]

Wednesday 20th of April 2016

Kudos to you. Your blogs are great.....by far the most informative intelligent blogs I have read . You give so much insightful information and trust me I have read hundreds and hundreds of blogs.Great job

Hi Dani - Thank you so very much.

Thursday 17th of March 2016

Mostar for me was one of the most impactful places I've ever been! The clash of cultures is impressive, but I gotta say there is a weird athmosphere going on. It seems the city is still not with peace with itself!

Hi Bruno - Interesting that you would pick up on that vibe. We did sense uneasiness, but attributed it more to difficult economy and low tourism numbers. Bosnia and Herzegovina is struggling. The benefit to travelers is that our money goes farther and our presence is very much appreciated.

International Travel Safety Don'ts - A Baker's Dozen - Passing Thru

Monday 21st of December 2015

[…] other remote areas. We spent time in two cities, and kept on the road in the mountains. Therefore, we learned other things, including the war there has been over for 20 years and people are looking to the future. Imagine […]

Last updated on July 30, 2023 by Shannon

The Balkan States are not a region many mainstream travelers have on their bucket list of places to visit next. It’s still considered an offbeat region, although that is changing quickly. Croatia leaped onto the tourist radar over the past decade, and as tourism increases, many are discovering that neighboring Bosnia & Herzegovina is a destination in its own right.

I’ll fess up right now, I deeply loved my three weeks the country, and I consider it one of the most underrated places I’ve visited.  The country is stunning and the people are warm. Also, the country has waged a huge effort to overcome the atrocities of the 90s war, and they are a culture and people moving forward, but not forgetting.

Bosnia is still flying under the radar for most travelers; Croatia and Montenegro are hotspots for their coastline, but Bosnia has a stunning mountain scenery and a culture unique to the region. For travelers, it makes a fascinating vacation—if not the easiest travel experience. English is not widely spoken throughout, not even in some of the touristy areas. If you visit with a sense of adventure and patience, you’ll find everyone friendly and willing to pantomime with you if that’s what it takes!

There’s a lot to do on a trip to Bosnia & Herzegovina. Rafting the country’s gorgeous rivers is hugely popular, as are winter sports too. The country has a stunning landscape—mountains, rivers, waterfalls—it’s easy to navigate on public transport, and the people are hospitable and welcoming to tourists.

Bosnia is a beautiful, offbeat place to explore and I highly recommend it. Consider socially responsible travel, and read on for more information you should know before you visit Bosnia & Herzegovina. Or jump straight to the city-level travel guides.

Table of Contents

Things to Know Before Traveling to Bosnia & Herzegovina

Throughout the Bosnian War, many people were displaced to neighboring countries. Others left as refugees, never to return. And many lost their lives. Travelers should dive into the recommended readings and form a nuanced understanding of the region’s past, as well as how that has affected its current politics.

If you’re traveling to the Balkans, you should do a fair bit of contextual research before you go. Like many countries with a recent history of war, there is a delicate peace among the people. Consider this a quick overview, but I highly recommend you dive into the recommended readings below—many are easy to load onto your Kindle—so you have a nuanced understanding of the region’s past, as well as how that affects its current politics.

First settled by the Slavic peoples, around the 14th century Bosnia and Herzegovina became a province of the Ottoman Empire. It’s this influence that brought Islam to the region. Bosnia and Herzegovina stayed under Ottoman control until that influence began to wane throughout the 18th and 19th centuries. By the end of WWII, Bosnia and Herzegovina had become part of the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia.

Bosnia and Herzegovina declared sovereignty and independence from the former Yugoslavia in 1991 and 1992. It’s this action that set off a chain of events that would shape the country’s next few years— the Bosnian War was a bloody civil strife focused around ethnic and religious differences. The Serbs resisted the declaration of independence, preferring to create a country divided along ethnic lines that aligned to neighboring Serbia and Croatia. Eventually, NATO—alongside internal and external forces—created a accord that ended with a Peace Treaty signed by all parties. But that peace took years and some might say is shaky.

Throughout the Bosnian War, many people were displaced to neighboring countries. Others left as refugees, never to return. And many lost their lives. The country’s capital experienced the longest siege of a capital city in history. Sarajevo was under siege for four years and the effects of that are still visible there, as well throughout other areas of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Modern-day Bosnia and Herzegovina has a diverse population, with independence uniting the country’s religious and ethnic groups. Roughly 45% are Muslim, 36% Orthodox, and 15% Catholic. With the past divisions in mind, it’s important to understand that there are two (and sometimes three) distinct regions that have united to act as one country and to function under one currency. And though unity in mid-90s brought peace to the region, there are still tensions and politics that are deeply embedded in the region’s history.

For travelers, understanding the 90s civil war is important. Even with that foundational history, however, it’s best to steer clear of discussing religion or politics, nor should you presume to refer to locals under one of the terms that denote ethnicity/religion/regional ties such as: Bosniak, Croat, and Serb. Bosnian is usually considered neutral to refer to anyone from the region and does not connote religious/ethnic ties. If you’d like more history, this is a quick and thorough timeline of the country’s historic events .

Fast Facts About Bosnia & Herzegovina Travel

Bosnian Convertible Marka (BAM) ( current exchange rate )

Electricity in Bosnia

230V/50hz. European 2-pin (Type C  & Type E). Americans will need an adaptor.

Primary Airports

Sarajevo Airport (SJJ)

Is the water safe to drink in Bosnia?

Both safe and unsafe. Sarajevo has safe tap water and very strong food safety measures. Rural areas of the country are not safe.

Bring a reusable bottle and refill with safe water, or consider the merits of a  SteriPen  or  LifeStraw  for your trip.

Is there good wifi in Bosnia?

Internet has come a long way since my first visit in 2009. Internet is far more widespread than it once was, and pretty decent. Most hostels and many hotels will offer it complimentary.

This is a good list of free wifi spots  in Sarajevo, and they have listings for all major cities if you’re in a pinch and need a connection. You can also hotspot yourself in a pinch and that works reliably.

Local SIM Card

Mobile data is available in most areas and is very affordable. BH Telecom is the best option for maximum chance of coverage throughout both Bosnia & Herzegovina.

You will find prepaid SIM kiosks; just buy one of these and top up for the amount of data/time that you need. There are both data + voice, and just data options; it’s  explained more here with kiosk location information too.

Best Time to Visit Bosnia

May through September is the best time to enjoy Bosnia and Herzegovina. Winters are bitterly cold in the region, but summer is hot and sunny.

What’s the visa situation like?

North Americans and Europeans do not need a visa to visit Bosnia-Herzegovina for up to 90 days. Most of Central and South America is covered under that same policy.

Those outside of this region who hold a Schengen visa are admitted for 15 days. Check the latest visa requirements here .

Food Considerations

This region of the world is hard for vegetarian travelers. They are meat-heavy cultures and with so little English spoken, it can be hard to communicate dietary restrictions. But the fresh food at markets is easy to acquire. I always carried an apple in my bag to stave off hunger.

Plan on eating a lot of spinach and cheese bureks—they’re vegetarian and make a tasty lunch (especially with plain yogurt!). I wrote a bit about what it’s like to be a vegetarian traveler in Bosnia . You must learn “I’m vegetarian and I do not eat meat” in Bosnian. You will need it. Also, consider these food safety principles  when picking where to eat.

Accommodation

Bosnia has a well-developed tourism infrastructure, despite relatively low levels of tourism. You can easily book pensions, B&Bs, and hostels online, or via phone if you’re driving around the country. Consider booking with locally-owned accommodation to ensure the money is staying within the communities.

In rural areas, look into eco-lodges and ethno villages—these ensure you have the lowest impact possible on the local environment. I stayed with locals in Sarajevo and it was such a wonderful way to see the city.

For backpackers, Booking.com is perfect for pre-booking hostels. And if you buy a local SIM card (which you should), you can easily call ahead and directly reserve spots en route. If none of these will do, check out my detailed guide to finding good places to stay . 

Festivals of Note

• Street Art Festival in Mostar (Spring)
• Sarajevan Winter (February/March)
• Bascarsija Nights (July)
• Jazzfest Sarajevo (November)

How much should you budget to travel in Bosnia?

This is a good budget destination, though not rock-bottom prices. The day-trippers from Croatia’s cruise ships jack up the prices a bit in Mostar. Generally, backpackers should plan on about $30 per day—this includes budget eating like bureks/cevapi and hostels throughout your stay.

Low-end hotels are also pretty nice, so for a bit more, you can easily upgrade. This page gives a good budget overview for various travel styles.

How to Travel Around Bosnia

The train system in Eastern Europe is extensive fantastic for getting into Bosnia. Because other countries are close, many travelers arrive in Zagreb and train into Sarajevo. Also, the bus system takes over nicely where the train doesn’t go.

Traveling Bosnia is not the cheapest travel in the world; neighboring countries are on the Euro and that has inflated the costs a bit. Buses will get you everywhere you need to go, but may take a bit of planning if you want to head anywhere but Sarajevo and Mostar as only a couple buses each day run to the smaller cities. Both major touristy cities, Mostar and Sarajevo, are quite walkable.

Is Bosnia Safe for Tourists?

Crime is low in Bosnia, and crimes against tourists are rare. That alone makes Bosnia among the safer destinations for travelers. Pickpocketing and petty theft in crowded areas and public transport are the biggest threats, which can be averted by using a crossbody travel purse . If you’re using a rental car to road trip around Bosnia, drive defensively and adhere to traffic rules. Mountainous regions may have narrow and winding roads, so drive carefully and be aware of other vehicles.

Landmines are still a major concern in isolated areas—they were used extensively during the 1990s conflict in Bosnia. Stay on marked trails and roads, and follow any warning signs that you encounter. If you’re driving the country, or hiking, be extremely cautious. Also, if you’re visiting smaller towns, carry enough cash to cover your stay in case the town doesn’t have an ATM.

Bosnia is an ideal solo travel destination as a result of its small cities and safe, easily navigable countryside. That said, anything can happen on the road. I am a firm advocate of broad-coverage travel insurance like IMG Global ; these are my main  tips for picking a good travel insurance .

Books About Bosnia & Herzegovina

Fiction & nonfiction books about bosnia & herzegovina.

This region’s war-torn past is recent; I highly recommend that you preface any trip with any of these recommended books and articles. There is a delicate nuance to even the most subtle language you use. Knowing the history and the culture smooths over awkward moments (like my first accidentally offensive moments in a cab in Bosnia!) and gives you a richer experience. Knowing the history is more important here. You may step on toes without even knowing it like I did.

• Goodbye Sarajevo : I find memoirs a compelling way to learn about history, as well as its impact on the citizens living through that piece of a nation’s history. This true story is a beautiful piece that looks at how a set of siblings coped during the war, and how they reconnected to life and each other after the war ended.
• Zlata’s Diary: A Child’s Life in Wartime Sarajevo : A riveting and heartbreaking look into how the outbreak of war changed the lives of the people living through it.
• Balkan Ghosts: A Journey Through History : Fascinating travelogue and history of the Balkan region as the author delves into the roots of the Balkan conflicts and how they are manifested in the modern Balkan states.
• Black Lamb and Grey Falcon : Beautiful and lyrical book that combines the author’s travelogue with a history of the region and insights from the region right as World War II began. A compelling way to read about Balkan history though it can be hard to distinguish fact from fiction throughout.
• The Bridge on the Drina : The book is a vivid depiction of the suffering history has imposed upon the people of Bosnia from the late 16th century to the beginning of World War I. It has been hugely well received and will give political insights to the region and Balkan and Ottoman history.

Podcasts and Online Reads About Bosnia & Herzegovina

• 14 Years a Fugitive: The Hunt for Ratko Mladić, the Butcher of Bosnia : A chronicle of how this Bosnian-Serb general—who is accused of killing thousands of civilians at Srebrenica and Sarajevo—evaded capture for so long.
• Life in the Valley of Death : A sad and sobering long read about the man whose job it was to find the mass graves of those executed in during the war.
• Bosnia Divided : A look at the soccer culture in the country and what the divided football culture says about the divisions that remain with the cultures living in Bosnia & Herzegovina.

Read all my Bosnia & Herzegovina travel stories  and find more regional fiction and nonfiction books and long-reads .

Recommended Guidebook

Bradt makes great guides for offbeat destinations; consider the Bradt Bosnia & Herzegovina for a dense list of options that show a unique side to the country.

Responsible Travel in Bosnia & Herzegovina

Bosnia & Herzegovina’s tourism scene is growing as neighboring countries take the spotlight. Travel to Croatia and Montenegro is on the rise, and Bosnia is seeing the benefits. While Bosnia-Herzegovina has little coastline like its neighbors, the country’s fast-flowing rivers and beautiful mountain ranges make for a wonderful nature holiday. As with any country, particularly those still developing strong tourism industries, it’s important to practice socially responsible travel. Consider these ideas when you’re traveling through the region.

Book Local and Eco-Friendly Accommodation

Bosnia-Herzegovina has a large network of locally-owned pensions and B&Bs. Additionally, once you leave the touristy cities and head into the surrounding nature, you’ll find ample opportunity to support the country’s eco-tourism efforts. Consider using eco-lodges and etno villages whenever possible.

These types of rural accommodations are designed to limit human impact on the environment and to preserve culture. The etno (also spelled ethno in some places) often include traditional building methods from the Balkan’s region, and they aim to recreate and educate about traditional village life.

Support Local Artisans

Buying your souvenirs from local craftsmen is a positive way to support traditional artisans techniques and handicrafts. It’s also an excellent way to experience the region, and to later remember that special part of the local culture. Consider learning about traditional winemaking at Lake Skadar, or discover Sarajevo’s copper-making history and traditions. Spending money with local businesses is one of the best ways to ensure your travels have a strong and last impact on the local economy.

Leave No Trace Behind

Many travelers visiting Bosnia & Herzegovina head to the mountains and into nature on their visit. Consider bringing a reusable water bottle to limit your use of plastic water bottles—you can easily refill. And when hiking, skiing, or participating in outdoors activities, carry your trash back with you. You may even choose to bring a small bag on hikes and help clean up the local environment, as some areas have a fair bit of litter. And for women, use a menstrual cup for not only easy of travel, but it’s eco-friendly, too.

Consider these additional responsible travel tips to lessen your impact on the places you visit.

Best Things to Do in Bosnia & Herzegovina

Rafting or kayaking on the Una and Vrbas rivers are two top spots for this adventure activity, and many rate Neretva Canyon as well. There are so many incredible and offbeat things to do in Bosnia and Herzegovina. This is a great spot for adventurous travelers keen for unique hikes and untouched mountains, and also for cultural travelers who love walking through history and seeing its visible effects.

The city and regional travel guides below share the best things you can see and do, as well as where to eat and sleep.

My Favorite Things to Do Traveling in Bosnia

• Taking in Sarajevo’s lively cafe culture .
• Observing and understanding the  bombing damage in Mostar .
• Hunting down delicious  delicious sweet eats around Sarajevo .
• Hiking to the cross above Mostar for sweeping views of the river, the city, and the Stari Most bridge.
• Wandering Mostar’s Old Town, then sipping tea and people watching in the late afternoon.

Don’t forget to  book travel insurance for your trip —a great policy provides coverage in case of medical emergencies, lost or stolen gear, adventure sports riders, and more. I’ve used  IMG Global  for more than a decade  highly recommend it !

Things to Do in Sarajevo

Sarajevo is the perfect size city for travelers. It’s the capital of Bosnia, and the biggest city in the country, but it’s still small. You can stand in the center of town and see the gently green rolling hills surrounding the city. I truly loved my time in Bosnia, perhaps even more because it’s not a tourist hot-spot. It’s a bit off the beaten path so you don’t queue for hours and it’s easy to strike up conversation with locals (at least, with those who speak English!).

You can easily use the transit system to explore the city. Just buy your bus tickets from the all-purpose magazine stands and shops—be warned the transit police will come on board regularly to check tickets. Plan many of your activities around food, this was my primary activity in the city. Find good spots to sample baklava, the traditional burek , and take the time for full tea, sugar, and Turkish Delight experience.

Explore the historic streets of Baščaršija.

Sarajevo’s Turkish quarter boasts weaving, cobblestone streets tiny shops selling fun souvenirs and postcards. Give the streets a wander for a couple hours—it will be a journey through time as you wander the narrow cobblestone streets of Baščaršija, the heart of Sarajevo’s old town. Lose yourself in the bustling marketplaces, where the aroma of traditional Bosnian dishes wafts through the air. Marvel at the beautifully preserved Ottoman-era architecture, adorned with intricate patterns and vibrant colors. Visit the iconic Sebilj fountain, a symbol of the city.

Eat a burek for lunch alongside locals.

Don’t miss the opportunity to taste mouthwatering cevapi, a local specialty of grilled minced meat served with fresh pita bread and creamy kaymak. Find a hole-in-the-wall burek restaurant for a delicious lunch amid the locals—this is where they head for lunch as well. Sit in the crowded little restaurants, sharing tables with the locals and the heat from the ovens permeating the space. The bureks and cevapi in these spots are worth it—as are the conversations!

Admire Gazi Husrev-bey Mosque and Bascarsija’s religious landmarks.

Find this Mosque, it’s gorgeous. You can explore Sarajevo’s religious heritage by visiting the grand Gazi Husrev-bey Mosque, an architectural gem from the 16th century. Marvel at its impressive dome, intricate calligraphy, and beautiful interior adorned with colorful tiles. Take a moment for reflection in the peaceful courtyard. While in Bascarsija, make sure to also visit other religious landmarks such as the Orthodox Cathedral, Catholic Cathedral of Jesus’ Heart, and the Jewish Museum, highlighting the city’s religious diversity.

Delve into Sarajevo’s history at the Latin Bridge.

Stand on the historic Latin Bridge, where a pivotal event unfolded that changed the course of history. This bridge is famously associated with the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria in 1914, an event that triggered World War I.

Visit the nearby Museum of Sarajevo, housed in an elegant Austro-Hungarian building, and gain a deeper understanding of the city’s past through exhibitions that showcase its tumultuous history, from the Ottoman Empire to the Yugoslav era and the Bosnian War. It’s a profound opportunity to reflect on the resilience of Sarajevo’s inhabitants and the importance of preserving peace.

Hike the hills outside of Sarajevo.

The city sits flush into the surrounding hills, and there are beautiful landmarks in the distant hills. Climb the winding paths to reach the Yellow Fortress, perched atop a hill overlooking Sarajevo’s enchanting skyline. As you reach the summit, breathe in the fresh mountain air and be rewarded with panoramic views of the city’s red-roofed houses, majestic mosques, and surrounding mountains.

Take a moment to reflect on the scars of war that can still be seen in the hillsides, a testament to the indomitable spirit of the people. Capture the picturesque vistas and immerse yourself in the serenity of this elevated vantage point. Ask your hotel or hostel for a good path out of town, and then set off with water and sturdy shoes. Even if you don’t make it to the right place, the hike is gorgeous, as are the views of Sarajevo.

Sip coffee and nibble sugar cubes.

Find a cozy cafe in Sarajevo’s old town and make it your spot for the days you’re in town. Bring a book, bring some friends, order traditional coffee. Then, drink the strong Bosnian coffee like a local by nibbling the sugar cube before each sip. It’s a lovely and delicious way to pass a couple of hours while observing the lively street life.

Pay tribute at the Sarajevo War Tunnel.

Visit the Sarajevo War Tunnel, a testament to the courage and resilience of Sarajevo’s residents during the Bosnian War. This underground passage, known as the Tunnel of Hope, provided a lifeline for the city during the siege from 1992 to 1995.

Explore a section of the tunnel that has been preserved and gain insight into the harrowing conditions faced by the people of Sarajevo. The accompanying museum displays artifacts, photographs, and multimedia presentations that offer a poignant narrative of the war’s impact on the city and its inhabitants.

Walk by the Sarajevo City Hall (Vijećnica).

Step into a masterpiece of architecture and cultural significance by visiting the Sarajevo City Hall, also known as Vijećnica. This majestic building, originally completed in 1896, showcases a blend of Moorish and Austro-Hungarian architectural styles. Admire the intricate detailing on the facade and step inside to marvel at the magnificent interior, including the breathtaking Sarajevo Haggadah exhibition.

The City Hall is not only a symbol of Sarajevo’s historical grandeur but also a testament to its resilience, as it was heavily damaged during the Bosnian War and meticulously restored to its former glory.

Stroll along the Miljacka River and Vrbanja Bridge.

Take a leisurely walk along the banks of the Miljacka River, which flows through the heart of Sarajevo. Enjoy the picturesque scenery, charming bridges, and the sight of locals engaging in daily activities. One bridge that stands out is the Vrbanja Bridge, known for its symbolic “Sarajevo Roses.”

These are concrete scars filled with red resin, representing the spots where mortar shells struck during the war. They serve as both memorials and reminders of the city’s turbulent past, creating a poignant contrast against the river’s tranquil ambiance.

Sleep somewhere central.

Sarajevo is a small capital city compared to larger ones in Europe, but it’s still large enough that you should find somewhere central so that you can easily navigate to the top spots in the city. These are good options”

• On a budget : Stay at the Residence Rooms . I’ve heard great things about this spot. Good wifi and they’ll help you arrange fun activities in the city. Right in the heart of where you want to be in Sarajevo. Good for a short stay in the city since it’s so close to everything!
• For mid-range travelers : Consider  Motel Mujanic  for a midrange price, or Hotel Bristol Sarajevo  is also a nice place from which to organize your search.

Things To Do in Mostar

Small and touristy, this lovely city in the south is flat-out charming. Hordes of cruise ship passengers from Dubrovnik, Croatia visit on a day trip most afternoons. Even so, it’s a wonderful spot. And doubly so if you’re staying in town for a week and you can visit the gorgeous waterfalls, towns, and scenic spots nearby.

A general recommendation is to steer clear of the touristy area in the mid-afternoon hours—use this time to head out on the recommended day trips. If you’re in town when the cruise shippers arrive, head to an outdoor cafe, sip a cool beverage, and engage in a favorite local pastime: people watching.

Explore the cobbled alleyways of Old Town. 

There aren’t a ton of particular activities in the area, but the town was recently war-torn and that is still incredibly evident in many of the buildings, and certainly the vibe. Explore the shops, buy souvenirs and strike up a conversation with anyone who speaks English (they can be few and far between!). Bosnia has an outdoor cafe culture , so that’s where you’ll find the locals too.

Visit the Stari Most bridge at various times of day.

Read up on the history of the bridge so you understand just why this is such a well-loved landmark for Bosnians. Kind of like the Taj Mahal, it looks totally different depending on the time of day, so plan to visit it several times!

Visit the Koski Mehmed Paša Mosque.

If the hike to the cross isn’t doable (explained below), consider the small entrance fee to this mosque as payment for the stunning views of Stari Most from the minaret.

Visit Blagaj Tekke (Dervish Monastery).

Just 12 kms outside of Mostar, this holy spot is popular with both pilgrims and tourists. It’s very pretty and I highly recommend it. You can get there by bus, car, or perhaps a day trip booked through your accommodation.

Day trip to the cool waters of Kravice Waterfalls.

\Wear your swimsuit under your clothes so you can take a tip in the pretty turquoise waters. It’s 40 kms outside of town, so it’s doable in a day and there is a cafe on site where you can grab lunch and coffee.

See the splendid views from Pocitelj.

Much of this town was destroyed during the war, but it’s in a gorgeous location and just 30 kms outside Mostar. It makes an easy day trip .

Hike to the Križ na Humu .

This is not a popular tourist hike, it’s not been set up for that, so be prepared to forge your own route. You’ll be a fair clip outside the tourist center, but it’s worth a half-day if you have time. From the streets of Mostar, the huge cross is visible on a nearby hill. From the cross, the views over Mostar are gorgeous. It also provides a unique angle on the Stari Most bridge, which was rebuilt after war damage and a sign of hope for the city.

Stay somewhere nice.

Mostar is a small town, so chances there are many great areas to stay in the city.

• Budget : Hostel Miran : This is a small, clean hostel very convenient to the Old Town. They offer a range of tours to help explore the region on a budget, and the free breakfast is a bonus. If you’re on a tight budget this is a good spot. Guesthouse “Taso” was recommended by an A Little Adrift reader—it would also have all the amenities you need to enjoy your time in Mostar.
• Midrange : Consider  Hotel-Restaurant Kriva Cuprija  or City Hotel  for a nice place from which to organize your search.

Bosnia Beyond Mostar and Sarajevo

Bosnia and Herzegovina is a country with a rich history and culture, and there are many things to see and do beyond Sarajevo and Mostar. Here are a few other ways that you can explore the nature and culture in other areas of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Explore Počitelj

Visit the UNESCO World Heritage site of the medieval city of Počitelj. Located in the Neretva River Valley, Počitelj is a small village located in the Neretva River Valley, about 30 kilometers southwest of Mostar. It is known for its well-preserved Old Town, which is built from stone and features a number of historic buildings, including a 16th-century Ottoman-style mosque. The village is a popular tourist destination, with many visitors coming to see the Old Town and to explore the surrounding countryside.

Take in Nature at the Vrelo Bosne Nature Reserve

Take a trip to the Vrelo Bosne nature reserve, just outside of Sarajevo. The reserve is known for its hiking trails, waterfalls, and picnicking areas. It’s also home to a number of plant and animal species, including a number of rare and endangered species.

Brush Up on Roman History at Aquae Sulphurae

Aquae Sulphurae is the site of an ancient Roman city located in western Bosnia. The city was founded in the 2nd century AD and was known for its thermal baths, which were believed to have therapeutic properties. Today, visitors can see the remains of the baths and other ancient structures at the site.

Slow Down in Jajce

Jajce is a town located in central Bosnia, about halfway between Sarajevo and Banja Luka. It is known for its beautiful waterfall and its medieval castle, which sits atop a hill overlooking the town. The castle is a popular tourist destination, with many visitors coming to see its well-preserved walls and towers.

Wander the Old Town Travnik

Travnik is a town located in central Bosnia, about 70 kilometers northwest of Sarajevo. It is known for its Ottoman-era architecture and its charming Old Town, which features a number of historic buildings and narrow, winding streets. Travnik is also home to a number of museums, including the Museum of Travnik, which is dedicated to the history of the town.

Hike in Sutjeska National Park

Sutjeska National Park is located in southern Bosnia, near the border with Montenegro. It is known for its beautiful natural scenery and its hiking trails, which offer visitors the opportunity to explore the park’s forests, mountains, and valleys. The park is home to a number of plant and animal species, including a number of rare and endangered species.

Essential Travel Planning Resources

❗ Yes, you need travel insurance . IMG Global is the travel insurance I’ve used for well over a decade of traveling solo, and with kids. Here’s why .

🧳 Smart packing can save your trip. Shop my favorite travel gear , including all of the packing essentials for world travel , gear to keep you safe on the road, my favorite travel books , and more.

🛏️ Find great accommodation . Booking.com is essentially the only hotel booking site that I use. It has a wide and affordable selection of traditional hotels, but also hostels and vacation rentals, too. Use these pro tips to find the best travel accommodation .

📍 Navigate more effectively. Rome2Rio is super handy to assess the full range of transport options between two cities—shows everything from flights to trains, buses, minibuses, and more. If you’re booking a rental car, I’ve always found the best deals on RentalCars.com .

✈️ Book affordable flights. Expedia is one of the first places I look for low-cost flights .

☕ Peruse all of my tips for round the world travel , or learn how to move and live abroad .

Bosnia Travel Guide: Stories from the Blog

Dive into all of my Bosnia & Herzegovina travel stories—each one written live on my travel blog as I traveled through the region I share detailed guides and stories about cultural quirks, fun activities, and things I enjoyed doing in every area.

A Little Perspective… What Does Cuba Look Like Now?

A Little Sweet… Fun Desserts from Around the World

A Little Travel Memory… My Big Bosnian Coffee Blunder

A Little Sweetness… Discovering the Desserts & Sweet Flavors of Bosnia

A Little History… Surveying the Damage in Bosnia Ten Years After the War

A Little Fun… New Friends, Coffee Overload, and So Many Cafes

A Little Guide… Best Bosnian Foods & Recipes for Vegetarians

A Little Welcome… Travel Days and a Cultural Faux Pas in Sarajevo

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"While Bosnia was once known for its horrifying wars and endured a terrible past, the country is healing and today it radiates harmony and tranquility. I love introducing our guests to the friendly locals at the traditional markets and restaurants, and watching people connect over good food and laughter."

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Admire the Stari Most Ottoman-style bridge

The Stari Most bridge is one of the most incredible places to visit in Bosnia, and we’ll take you there with a Local Specialist to admire the fairytale views and learn the tragic story behind the medieval bridge that was destroyed during the Bosnian War. It has since been rebuilt using old traditions and today it’s a beautiful symbol of reconciliation.

Learn about the religious & multicultural heritage of Sarajevo

Our Sarajevo tours take you to the heart of the ‘Jerusalem of Europe’ and its multicultural history with a Local Specialist. You’ll get an insider’s look on a walking tour where you’ll discover Bosnia’s centuries of religious history in the stunning mosques, synagogues, and Catholic and Orthodox churches.

Walk through the colorful cobbled streets of Mostar

If you’re looking for the best places in Bosnia, you can’t go past Mostar, a gorgeous riverside town filled with Ottoman architecture, UNESCO sites, mosques, churches and traditional markets and restaurants. You’ll join your Bosnia travel guide for a stroll through the vibrant streets and get an insight into the real Bosnian way of life in the Old Town čaršija (market).

Visit the War Tunnel in Sarajevo

The War Tunnel is one of the most moving of all Bosnia’s attractions. We’ll take you there with a Local Specialist who will share his special personal insight on a tour of this underground tunnel of hope. Built during the Siege of Sarajevo, the tunnel allowed food, supplies and humanitarian aid to reach the city for four years during the Bosnian War.

Visit the Sarajevo Old Town and trace the Sarajevo Roses

Our Bosnia holidays will have you meeting a Local Specialist and strolling through the beautiful Sarajevo Old Town. You’ll set eyes on the largest mosque in Bosnia, visit the Eternal Flame and see the Sarajevo Roses dotted across the city. The roses are a stirring reminder of the turmoil the city endured decades ago.

Our top 5 things to do in Bosnia & Herzegovina

Our Bosnia tours will show you all the best things to do in Bosnia & Herzegovina, from seeing the famous Stari Most bridge to wandering the historic Sarajevo Old Town.

Museum Of War And Genocide Victims

This Mostar museum is the best place in Bosnia to learn about the country’s dark past. It’s dedicated to the memory of the victims of the Bosnian genocide and the Srebrenica massacre from 1992-1995. You’ll see photos, documents, and personal belongings, and learn about the brutal concentration camps and mass graves of the genocide.

Museum of the Old Bridge

Set within the Tara Tower, one of the defensive towers guarding the Old Bridge (Stari Most), this museum tells the famous story of the reconstruction of the bridge. You’ll get to see archaeological remains, learn the fascinating history of the bridge, wander the gallery, and admire the stunning views from five-stories high.

If you want to learn about Bosnian culture and history in one place, Bosnaseum is the place to go. You’ll learn about the country’s history from the Ottoman Empire era to the end of the Bosnian War including the destruction of Stari Most. Plus discover Bosnian culture including traditional costumes and a model of a Herzegovina village.

Best museums in Bosnia and Herzegovina

You can’t visit the incredible country without checking out some of the top Bosnia museums, from the Stari Most museum to the museum of Bosnian history and culture.

These grilled meat sausages are a beloved dish all over the Balkans, but they hold a special place in the hearts of Bosnians. Every region has their own unique recipe, and they’re traditionally made with a spiced mix of beef, pork and lamb. Grab a pita bread and stuff it with onions and Ćevapi and you’ve got the ultimate Bosnian food.

Bosanski lonac (The Bosnian pot)

Looking for some Bosnian comfort food? Look no further than the Bosnian Pot. The ingredients vary from family to region, but this hearty stew is always overflowing with rich chunks of meat and vegetables. The local saying goes “you should eat something with a spoon each day”... So grab your spoons and tuck into the Bosnian Pot.

This is another beloved Balkan dish and you’ll find delicious variations of these doughnut-like balls of fried dough all over the region. In Bosnia, uštipci is traditionally served up as a crispy, delicious snack, dipped in all kinds of cheeses like kajmak, a creamy, dairy spread. But be warned - you can't stop at just one!

Best food in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Bosnia and Herzegovina’s food is sure to be one of the highlights of your trip. We can’t wait to introduce you to all the favorites, from grilled sausages to fried dough balls.

What to pack for Bosnia & Herzegovina

With all kinds of beaches, waterfalls and rivers, you never know when you might want to take a dip in the water on your Bosnia holiday. Pack a swimsuit and be ready for anything.

Insect repellent

The Balkan Peninsula is known for its mosquitoes - including Bosnia & Herzegovina. Pack some good insect repellent and itch cream to soothe any mosquito bites.

Sun protection

Whether you’re traveling in the hot summer or the chilly winter, you’ll need a hat, sunglasses and high SPF sunscreen to protect your skin on your Bosnia trip.

Walking shoes

From the cobbled streets of Mostar to the historic tunnels of Sarajevo, you’re sure to be doing a lot of walking on your Bosnia tours. Bring your most comfortable pair of shoes.

Bosnian phrasebook

It’s handy to learn a few common words and phrases in the Bosnian language, especially if you plan on visiting more rural areas - and the locals are sure to appreciate your efforts.

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Backpacking Bosnia: the ultimate travel guide

This post is a travel guide about backpacking Bosnia. It includes all the practical things you need to know about travel in Bosnia.

Why Backpacking Bosnia?

The first time I visited Bosnia was in 2005 as a volunteer. It was a project from a dutch NGO called the Bouworde and we were rebuilding homes of the elderly that were damaged during the war. 

For me, Bosnia was love at first sight with its friendly people, green hills and small villages. Since then I have returned several times. Backpacking Bosnia was always a great experience and the country has lots to offer. 

You might have heard about Sarajevo and Mostar. These picturesque places are getting more popular every year for good reasons. However, there is much more to see and do in Bosnia. In general, it is still an off the beaten path destination with a lot of places that are waiting to be discovered.

Therefore backpacking Bosnia is very rewarding. The nature and mountains are spectacular with plenty of outdoor activities. The beautiful blue rivers such as the Una and the Neretva are perfect for rafting. Furthermore, the mountains offer many hiking trails through forests where wolves and bears still roam around.

As a bonus Bosnia is still one of the cheapest destinations in Europe. You will find that prices for accommodation, transport and food are low. You pay little, but get lots in return when Backpacking Bosnia. 

Visas for Backpacking Bosnia 

Bosnia has a long list of countries that do not need a visa. They can stay in Bosnia for 90 days in total (within 180 days). The list of visa exempt countries include the USA, Canada, China, Russia, Australia, Japan, the European Union, most of Eastern Europe and most of South America. 

Others do need to get a visa at a Bosnian embassy or they can enter Bosnia for 15 days with a multiple entry Schengen visa (in this case you must enter Bosnia from a Schengen country). 

How to travel to Bosnia 

Travel to bosnia by plane.

Bosnia has several international airports served by budget airlines. Sarajevo (Wizz Air: Budapest), Tuzla (Wizz Air: several destinations), Mostar (Eurowings: germany) and Banja Luka (Ryan Air: several destinations). 

Tuzla might be the cheapest airport to fly into Bosnia. However, the airport is quite far from the city. Depending on the time you arrive you can take the local bus (a 5 minute walk from the airport to the main road) or a taxi. The latter might be more than the cost of your flight ticket.  

Travel to Bosnia overland

The first time I went to Bosnia I travelled overland from Amsterdam. First by train to Munich, then the night train to Zagreb and from Zagreb by bus to Banja Luka. This was still a time when taking the train was cheaper than flying.

This is of course no longer the case. However, flying into one of the neighbouring countries might sometimes be considerably cheaper than flying directly into Bosnia.

Bosnia is neighbours with Croatia, Serbia and Montenegro and there are good bus connections between these countries and cities in Bosnia. 

Places to visit in Bosnia

There are a lot of places to visit in Bosnia. For a good introduction to the country I can recommend my one week Bosnia itinerary .

Let me start with Tuzla. A few years ago Tuzla opened up its former military airport for budget airlines. Since Wizz Air is now flying directly from Eindhoven to Tuzla this was the start of several of my trips to Bosnia.

Tuzla itself might not be on the tourist radar, but is an interesting destination as one of the most multicultural cities of Bosnia. It used to be an important center of industry as well, but is now facing difficult times. 

Unemployment is high in Tuzla as many industrial factories and firms are closing down. It was in Tuzla that a series of protests and riots started against the government that soon spread throughout Bosnia in 2014.

I stayed at an Airbnb from a welcoming family that had lived in Tuzla their whole life. They explained how the economic situation was getting worse. The mother used to work in Tuzla’s only hotel but has now quit her job. She didn’t receive her salary for months, something that had never happened before, not even during the war.

When you are in Tuzla you can feel some of the decay. You wouldn’t say for example that this is the third biggest city in the country. However, its old town is scenic with the pastel coloured buildings. Tuzla is also home to Europe’s only salt lake. One day is enough to visit both.

Transport: From Tuzla there are frequent buses to Olovo (2 hours) and Sarajevo (3 hours)

On the way from Tuzla to Sarajevo you will find the small town of Olovo that sees few foreign visitors. This is a truly off the beaten path destination and there is in fact not much to do in the town itself. However, Olovo is surrounded by stunning mountains that makes it a great base for some trekking in the surrounding hills.

Olovo is in the Krivaja river valley and at the confluence of two other rivers. There are several thermal springs in the area where the waters are believed to have healing powers. The Aquaterm spa in the centre of Olovo is believed to cure rheumatism and neurological problems among others. The amazing nature and landscapes remain the main draw of Olovo though.

Some of the mountain paths are part of the via dinarica, a long distance hiking trail that is being developed to increase ecotourism in the region. It crosses the Dinaric Alps through several countries in the Balkans. National Geographic rated the via dinarica as one of the best destinations in 2017.

I really enjoyed the small hikes we did by simply following the paths up the hill where we were awarded with beautiful views on the town below. Olovo is a safe area to walk around, but it is important you stay on the paths. Sadly, mines are still a problem if you venture deep into the forests around Olovo.

Transport: from Olovo’s bus station there are several buses to Sarajevo (1 – 2 hours)

It is easy to love Sarajevo with its charming old town and surrounding hills. It’s an incredibly diverse city full of history.

The bascarsija is a journey back in the past when Bosnia was part of the Ottoman empire while the elegant Austrian-Hungarian buildings speak yet of a different time. Then there are the socialist communal flat apartments at the outskirts of the city that are a stark contrast with the hilly suburbs where it feels more like a traditional Bosnian village.

Sarajevo alone could occupy you for an entire week with its interesting museums, delicious restaurants and cosy tearooms. It is also the gateway to Sarajevo’s mountains where you can go hiking in summer or skiing in winter. Former Olympic resort towns like Jahorina and Bjelasnica are a center of winter sports. In summer you can hike to the traditional village of Lukomir.  

Read more in my post about the best things to do in Sarajevo .

Transport : there are several buses to the main cities in Bosnia like Tuzla (3 hours), Konjic (1 hour), Mostar (3 hours), Jajce (4 hours) and Bihac (6-7 hours).

Konjic is midway between Sarajevo and Mostar. Even though it is a very small city, it is worth a visit. It’s beauty is defined by the deep blue Neretva river that runs through the scenic historic center. The Old stone bridge in Konjic is one of the best preserved Ottoman bridges in Bosnia. 

It was here, right next to the river, but hidden from view, that Titov built a bunker deep under the ground. The bunker was meant to keep him, his family and a considerable amount of other people high up in the Yugoslavian Parliament alive for two years after a nuclear attack. It was never used and is now open for visitors through Visit Konjic .

The bunker also hosts a modern art gallery at the moment. I thought it was an interesting visit showing the remnants of a past in which nuclear attacks seemed a real possibility in some parts of the world.

Besides visiting the old town and the bunker, one can also go rafting or if you have your own transport visit Boracko lake high up in the mountains. 

Transport : there are several buses per day to Sarajevo (1 hour) or Mostar (2 hours)

Any visit to Bosnia is not complete without visiting Mostar. One of the most picturesque places in Bosnia Herzegovina. The charming historic town with the view on the old bridge over the Neretva river took my breath away.

With the excellent restoration work it is easy to forget Mostar’s gruelling past. It was, however, the most heavily bombed city during the war. Most historic buildings were destroyed including the old bridge connecting the Bosnian part of town with the Croatian part of town.

Now it feels like nothing has changed since the Ottoman empire ruled the area. It’s very scenic with the cobbled stoned streets and the minarets in the background. However, this is one of the most touristic places in Bosnia. I was here at the end of September when the amount of tourists was less, but I think it must be really crowded in summer.

Mostar is also the gateway to some other famous sights in Bosnia such as the Kravice waterfalls , the Blagaj monastery and Pocitelj (another charming town). 

Transport: There are frequent buses to Sarajevo (3 hours)

Travnik 

Travnik is a historic town in the center of Bosnia Herzegovina. It’s main sights are an impressive fortress and some colorful Ottoman buildings. It makes for a pleasant day trip from Sarajevo or a stop on the way from Sarajevo to Jajce.

Transport : there are several buses per day to Sarajevo (2 hours), Jajce (2 hours) or Mostar (4 hours).  

Jajce is famous for its scenic location and its waterfall that is right in the center of the city. Above the waterfall lies the charming old town with its ancient citadel. Other nearby attractions include picturesque Pliva lake and some traditional wooden water mills.

Transport : there are several buses per day to Sarajevo (4 hours), Travnik (2 hours) or Bihac (3 hours).  

Bihac & Una National Park

One of the most beautiful areas of Bosnia is without doubt the nature around the Una river. The story goes that the Una river got its name from a Roman warrior that thought the river was so beautiful that it was the one and only (Una). I can personally say that the Una is indeed one of the most spectacular rivers in Bosnia with its deep turquoise blue and emerald green colors.

Bihac is a pleasant city that forms the gateway to Una National Park with its network of river streams, pools and waterfalls that are surrounded by lush forests with dense vegetation and limestone cliffs. The nature is pristine and wildlife includes rare animals such as lynx, bears and wolves.  

Una National Park is the perfect place for outdoor activities like rafting, kayaking, swimming, mountain biking and hiking. In addition, the park also has some cultural and historical heritage with ancient citadels, monasteries and mosques. 

It’s Bosnia at its best and because it is somewhat remote it receives a small number of visitors. If you are looking for a peaceful and quiet spot full of nature that is off the beaten path, Una National Park is the place to go.  

Sutjeska National Park

Sutjeska National Park is Bosnia’s oldest national park full of mountains and glacial lakes. It is home to the Perucica Forest reserve, one of the two remaining primeval forests in Europe and Maglic peak, the highest mountain in Bosnia. 

It was also the location of the battle of Sutjeska in the second World War in which the partisans led by Josep Tito finally defeated the Germans after one month of fighting. There is now an impressive memorial. 

Things to do in Bosnia

Bosnia not only has beautiful places to visit, but also offers lots of things to do for those that love the outdoors and adventure sports. 

Bosnia is full of unexplored nature and with its hills and mountains is one of the best hiking spots in Europe . The Via Dinarica Green trail runs right through Bosnia from Una National Park to Sarajevo and beyond.

Bosnia has 3 national parks. Una National Park, Kozara National Park and Sutjeska National Park. Sutjeska National Park probably offers the best hiking trails if it comes to mountain sceneries including the possibility to hike to a glacial lake at the border with Montenegro. 

Also from Sarajevo there are plenty of hiking opportunities. One popular hike is the trial to Lukomir. A traditional Bosnian village high up in the mountains. Another hike from Sarajevo leads to the mountain eco lodge of Vukov Konak.

Important when hiking in Bosnia is to always stay on the trails. Mines might still be a problem in some areas. This is not to scare you. Most of it is cleared by now and if you stay on well trodden paths and trails you should be fine. 

Bosnia’s rivers are great for rafting. The most beautiful rivers to go rafting are the Una in Una National Park or the Neretva river. It’s also possible to go rafting in the Tara canyon at the border with Montenegro. 

Winter sports

Is winter too cold in Bosnia? Most people will not consider traveling to Bosnia in winter. I did once and I must say that it was even more beautiful. Snow in Sarajevo is magical and the Olympic resort towns of Bjelasnica and Jahorina are the center of winter sports. 

Skiing, snowboarding and snowshoeing. It is all possible. But even if you don’t plan any adventure sports, Bjelasnica and Jahorina and other places in the Bosnian mountains offer a picturesque winter wonderland. 

When to travel in Bosnia

Bosnia is an all year round destination and you can go Backpacking Bosnia any time of the year. It all depends what you are looking for.

I already made a case for winter and Bosnia is a great destination for winter sports. Spring brings pleasant temperatures and good weather. As the snow melts the mountains become green and flowers start to bloom. 

Summers can get very hot in Bosnia, but the mountains offer a welcome respite from the heat. This is the best time for outdoor activities such as hiking and rafting.

Temperatures go down again in autumn when the colours in the trees make this the most beautiful time to go Backpacking Bosnia.

Accommodation when backpacking Bosnia

Accomodation in Bosnia is not necessarily focused on backpackers, but is nevertheless very affordable. You might be able to find backpacker hostels in popular places like Sarajevo and Mostar. But outside of the tourist trail it’s mostly bed and breakfasts or small scale guesthomes.  

On my recent trips to Bosnia I used Airbnb a lot and they have some pretty good deals. It is also a great way to meet with the local people. 

What and where to eat in Bosnia

Bosnia is one of the cheapest destinations in Europe and going out for dinner is extremely affordable in Bosnia. You will have lots of opportunities to find and try the delicious Bosnian food .

If you really want to keep things cheap one of the best places to eat is a local bakery ( called pekara). They specialize in Burek, which is basically filo dough with different fillings. Common varieties are with cheese (sirnica), spinach with cheese (zeljanica), butter (maslenica) and meat. They make a delicious and filling breakfast or lunch and also a good option if you are vegetarian.

Another cheap meal in Bosnia is the local version of kebab called cevapcici. It comes in a pita bread with raw onions and is a great snack for lunch or dinner. Look out for a cevabdzinica that you can find almost anywhere in Bosnia. Next to cevapcici they often have other grilled meats such as pljeskavica (balkan hamburger) or Raznjici (shashlik). Unfortunately vegetarians will have a hard time to find anything to eat in such restaurants.

Even though the above options are the cheapest it would be a pity not to try more Bosnian food. Bosnian cuisine has balkan, turkish and mediterannean influences with recipes that are the same for hundreds of years. Expect delicious stews with fresh vegetables cooked in their natural juices and hearty soups.

A so called ascinica (canteen) offers simple home made traditional Bosnian cuisine on a budget, but the quality varies a lot. For the best Bosnian food experience you should treat yourself on a visit to one of the ethnic restaurants such as Sadrvan in Mostar or Inat Kuca in Sarajevo. You can check my list of the best budget restaurants in Sarajevo .

Try for example dolma (meat in grape leaves) or muckalica (stew of meat and vegetables). Personal favourites are tarhana (tomato based soup with a local pasta), Bosanski lonac (Bosnian pot) and peksimeti (fried mini breads) 

Language and culture in Bosnia

Language and culture are a bit of a complicated issue in Bosnia Herzegovina. Officially there are three languages. Bosnian, Serbian and Croatian. They are very similar to each other and people speaking any of these will understand the others. Bosnian and Croatian use the Latin alphabet whereas Serbian is in the cyrillic script.

Bosnia has always been a country where east meets west and where different cultures came together. It was once ruled by Illyrian tribes, the Romans, the Ottomans, the Austrio-Hungarians and Tito’s Yugoslavia. The country as we know it now got its independence in 1995 after a bloody civil war in which the Bosniaks, Croats and Serbs fought against each other.  

In the Dayton peace agreements Bosnia became a sovereign state divided in two. The Serb populated Republika Srpska and the Croat Bosniak federation of Bosnia Herzegovina.  

I highly recommend you to read some books about Bosnia’s history before you go to get a better understanding of the current situation. Some good books are Bosnia: a short history by Noel Malcolm or the fall of Yugoslavia by Misha Glenny. 

How to travel in Bosnia

Backpacking bosnia by bus.

If you are using public transport, buses are the best way to explore Bosnia. Travelling between the major cities is easier than the information online may suggest. Finding up to date schedules isn’t very straightforward. There are different private companies and not all of them publish their schedules on the internet. 

That said, there should be at least one bus per day or more between the bigger towns. You can buy tickets at the bus station. In most cases you can buy tickets on the same day, but popular routes do get fully booked. Going to the bus station the day before you want to travel to check the latest timetable and to buy your ticket isn’t a bad idea. 

It’s not complete, but through Autobusni Kolodvor , ticket4me and getbybus it is possible to check some timetables and even buy some tickets online beforehand. Some reliable agencies are Autoprevoz and Centotrans.  

Do keep in mind that there are less bus connections on the weekends and between Republika Srpska and the federation of Bosnia Herzegovina. Options to travel in between these two entities is limited. 

Backpacking bosnia by train

Bosnia’s train infrastructure was badly affected by the civil war. For a long time trains had a reputation for being slow, uncomfortable and full of chain smoking locals. 

In recent years Bosnia has invested in its rail network though. Plans to reopen certain domestic and international routes are promising. Check the Bosnian railways for up to date schedules. You can buy tickets at the railway station.

One noteworthy train journey is the Sarajevo to Mostar train that competes with the Belgrade to Bar train for being the most beautiful train journey in Europe.

Since 2017, Bosnia uses new Talgo trains for this daily journey making it a convenient 2 hour trip by train. This is probably the only route where the train is now actually faster than the bus. 

Backpacking Bosnia by car

If you want to visit Bosnia off the beaten path, it’s probably best to have your own car. Renting a car in Bosnia is incredibly cheap and gives you a lot of flexibility to include places like Una and Sutjeska National Park and to make day trips to Bosnia’s incredible nature from the main cities.

For example, having a car makes it possible to visit Bjelasnica and Jahorina from Sarajevo, Pocitelj from Mostar or Boracko lake from Konjic. These are just a few of the exciting places to see in Bosnia.  

Useful Apps for backpacking Bosnia

Mojtaxi or taxibih.

Taxi’s in Bosnia are incredibly cheap. For those who prefer the easy use of a taxi hailing app can use either mojTaxi or TaxiBiH

Google Translate

Although the younger generation do speak english, the older generation is less fluent. Google Translate will be useful in this case. 

Money matters for Backpacking Bosnia

Bosnia has its own currency, the convertible mark (KM or BAM). Originally it was linked to the German Mark, nowadays the exchange rate is around 1 Mark for 2 Euro. In touristic places they might also accept Euro’s, but this is not always the case. 

There are plenty of ATM’s in the bigger cities where you can get Bosnian Marks. If you plan to go to the countryside for a longer period you may want to bring enough marks with you.  

Costs of travel in Bosnia

Bosnia is one of the cheapest countries in Europe to travel in. Prices for accommodation, food and transport are all relatively low. 

Accommodation : around 10 Euro for a bed in a dormitory and around 20 Euro for a budget private double room and 30 Euro for a midrange private double room. 

Food : less than 5 Euro if you stick to fast food cevapcici and burek, around 10 Euro if you go to a midrange restaurant

Transport : 5 Euro for the bus from Sarajevo to Mostar (3 hrs) up to 23 Euro for the bus from Sarajevo to Bihac (7 hrs). 

Tours : tours will be your biggest expense if you opt for them. They might be necessary if you don’t have your own transport or you have limited time and wish to visit some off the beaten path places like Una National Park, Sutjeska National Park or Pocitelj. You might also be interested in hiking tours or rafting tours. 

Tour prices differ. One reliable agency is Green Visions where rafting tours are available from 40 Euro onwards and a day hike tour from Sarajevo to Lukomir for 50 Euro. 

Safety when backpacking Bosnia?

Despite its turbulent past, Bosnia is now a very safe country to travel in. Crime rates are very low and you can easily avoid becoming the victim of pickpocketing by taking the usual precautions.

The main concerns in Bosnia have to do with road safety and land mines. Although road infrastructure is improving, some roads are pretty bad, especially if you go off the beaten path. Locals drive pretty fast as well.

Land mines are still a big problem in Bosnia. The highly populated areas are cleared, but in the countryside and some of the remote mountain ranges you will still find minefields. Sometimes there are warning signs next to the road, but this is not always the case.

Still, it is unlikely you will become a victim unless you really want to do some hiking in unexplored areas where very few people go. Use your common sense and stay on well established hiking trails or use a guide who knows the area. 

Solo female travel in Bosnia

Bosnia is also very safe for solo female travellers. From my own experience I have felt perfectly safe walking through cities like Sarajevo, Mostar or Tuzla on my own. People are very friendly and when traveling by bus people sometimes asked where I was from.

The major religion in the Federation of Bosnia Herzegovina is islam. Dressing modestly is appreciated, but because of the multicultural nature of the country it is not as important as in other muslim countries in the region. 

It might be useful to have a scarf with you if you wish to visit religious places, but in most cases these will be available on site as well, like in the Blagaj monastery near Mostar.

Resources about Backpacking Bosnia

Kami and the rest of the world : One of my favourite blogs about Eastern Europe. Kami has visited Bosnia several times and has some interesting posts about the country with useful tips. 

Kathmandu and Beyond : The couple from Kathmandu and beyond have travelled extensively in the Balkans including Bosnia Herzegovina. They have some great posts on Bosnia with some off the beaten path places and unusual things to do. 

Bradt guide Bosnia : The best travel guide about Bosnia is the Bradt guide that is very strong on background information. 

Bradt Guide Via Dinarica : The Bradt Guide also has a travel guide on the Via Dinarica for those who want to hike the White trail through Bosnia.

Lonely Planet Western Balkans : The Lonely Planet does not have a guide for Bosnia in particular, but their guide on the western Balkans has a useful chapter about the country. 

Black lamb and grey falcon by Rebecca West : This travel book is the account of Rebecca’s West journey through Yugoslavia in 1937. It is rich in history and ethnography about the region.  

Disclaimer :  This post about backpacking Bosnia contains affiliate links. If you buy any service through any of my links, I will get a small commission at no extra cost to you. These earnings help me to keep Backpack Adventures alive! Thanks for your support!

25 thoughts on “Backpacking Bosnia: the ultimate travel guide”

It’s a beautiful and underrated place. I hope to visit it one day and soon.

Looks so much like Croatia! Definitely a country I would like to visit. Great pictures and great advice on Airbnb. Have you considered optimising your blog for mobile?

thank you for sharing your advice. It is supposed to be optimized for mobile and it is on mine, but I have heard feedback from others that it is not for every mobile phone :(. I am workling on this in the future.

I would love to visit Bosnia! I love the architecture in Mostar judging by your photos, and the food from the restaurant there looks delicious. It must have been a cool experience visiting the monastery too.

Mostar is on my list! These Balkan countries are all still relatively untouched and feel so fresh, though they are all somewhat similar in many ways.

I can’t wait to get to Mostar someday. It looks so quaint and lovely.

Wow I have never been to Bosnia, but it looks beautiful. The drive from Sarajevo to Mostar looks stunning! Those views. It’s sad to hear about the unemployment rate in Tuzla. I hope things begin to look up for the community of Tuzla soon. Mostar looks lovely and well worth visiting. Thanks for sharing.

I had only ever heard of Sarajevo before! I had no idea there were so many beautiful places to see Bosnia!

Bosnia looks gorgeous! I really can’t wait to get myself over there! Any must see sights that I shouldn’t miss?

Mostar is on my list! I’ve seen so many stunning photos of it, but you’ve just added a few more spots. Clearly Bosnia needs to be in the near future trips 🙂

Bosnia looks like a fun place to explore. How was the food and the people?

Your international volunteering is inspiring! What a great way to see the world and give back! Thank you for the well written blog.

I’ve been to a few of the former Yugoslav states but not Bosnia – yet! I had a Bosnian refugee friend in college and some friends with the UN who were in Kosovo, it’s a fascinating place. Thanks for reminding me of Mostar – definitly want to see that. I love your photos of the old streets 🙂

Great place, not too crowded with tourists yet. The mountain side monastery looks gorgeous. I will look into how Airbnb works, thank you for the tips.

I still have to visit Bosnia, but my other half did, and as you said, he loved it. He loved Mostar and he loved Sarajevo. So I have to go and visit.

Wow. The “don’t forget ’93” stone really got me…

I had a psychology lecturer at university who would wax lyrical about Bosnia. He said it was somewhere everyone should visit once in their life, after reading your post, I might have to agree with him.

My friends visited Sarajevo and Mostar last summer and were blown away. Sadly lots of people still associate Bosnia with war but it is definitely moving onto people’s radar. It must have been so interesting to see the change since the last time you visited.

Many people when they hear about “Bosnia,” the first thing that comes to their mind is a war-torn country referring to the armed conflict between Bosnia and Herzegovina in the early 90s. We’re glad that we are more open-minded.

What a scenic place! This is a great place for backpacking. We wouldn’t mind sitting all afternoon having a latte on those quiet streets. The river scenes are simply awesome!

You are right, Bosnia is Europe’s best kept secret! It looks like a delightful country. Mostar looks so beautiful and the food sounds like its really good. If it is anything like Montenegro then we know it truly is good! Curios to know what Bosnia’s traditional cuisine is and what your picture of food is.

It’s always interesting to return to a place you already been to. Bosnia is on my list for this year too so it was great to see a glimpse of what life is like there. I usually opt for Airbnb too. I love how it helps out families while giving you an authentic look at a culture.

My travel partner and I have a whole list of countries we want to see when we move to Europe. Bosnia was on the list but after your post, I think it got bumped to the top! How beautiful!

Oh, this is bringing back such happy memories of my time in Bosnia! The people were so kind, the scenery was so beautiful, and the food was pretty good too (even as a vegetarian!). Hopefully I’ll get to visit again in the future!

We loved our time in Bosnia but only went to Mostar. Will need to go back. Thanks for sharing.

Such a Very nice. Posts shared useful information and meaningful life, I’m glad to be reading this article and hope to soon learn the next article.

Thank you for the introduction of a range of information that is very interesting to see in this article. Thanks for sharing wonderful information.

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Book details:, travel guide bosnia and herzegovina.

Book " Come, Enjoy, Pass It On BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA 30 Unforgettable Days" is a well balanced blend of a travel guide and a photo book about Bosnia and Herzegovina. On 208 pages over 150 of the most interesting tourist destinations that can be visited in Bosnia and Herzegovina are described. The book is divided into 30 chapters, two of which are dedicated to the cities of Mostar and Sarajevo, and the remaining 28 to other destinations throughout Bosnia and Herzegovina. At the beginning of every chapter there is a map of the region and a short description of the touristic places of interest and possible activities. The following pages contain detailed descriptions with a variety of photos and useful information about every single tourist attraction. The destinations are chosen in a way so that you can spend at least one day there and that this time will remain an unforgettable memory.  

For whom the book is intended for?

This travel photo book is an ideal source of information for those who want to know more about Bosnia and Herzegovina or who want to discover the whole natural and cultural diversity of that beautiful country. Furthermore, this book is an ideal gift for friends and business partners to whom you want to show the beauty of this small country in the Balkans. The quality of the book has already been recognized by many readers on Amazon.de, so this book has currently the best reviews and recommendations from all the books related to Bosnia and Herzegovina.  

Published editions

The first edition of the book was published in the year 2014. So far, the guide has been translated into five languages. It is available in Bosnian, English, Italian, German and Turkish. Author and publisher of the book is Amel Salihbasic.

I had believed that I was acquainted with all beauties of Bosnia and Herzegovina, but looking at the photographs of Mr. Salihbašić, I realized that I was wrong. This book (travel guide) is a summary of all natural beauties of Bosnia and Herzegovina and its historical and cultural richness which makes this country so special and worth a visit. I sincerely believe that this extraordinary book rich with very nice pictures will contribute to Bosnia and Herzegovina being more widely recognized as a desirable destination.  

Tadžudin Muslibegović , National monument Muslibegovic House - Mostar

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Bosnia Travel Guide

Enjoy bosnia and herzegovina.

Tunnel of hope - Sarajevo War Tunnel

Departure & Return Location:  On request Start time: On request (every day)  Description: War time – The most important facts and locations, Sniper Aleey, War Tunnel Museum Duration: 2-3 hours Number of persons:  from 1 person Language options: Bosnian, English, German  Price:  from 20 € Included: Licensed tour guide, Transportation  Excludes: Entrance fees 10KM/5 Euro for the ticket of the Tunnel of Hope museum

Sarajevo War Tour - 1992-1995

Departure & Return Location:  On request Start time: On request (every day)  Description:  War time - The most important facts and locations, Yellow Fortress, Markale Market,  War Cementary, Sniper Aleey, War Tunnel Museum Duration:  4-5 hours Number of persons:  from 1 person Language options:  Bosnian, English, German Price:  from 35 € Included: Licensed tour guide, Transportation Excludes: Entrance fees 10KM/5 Euro for the ticket of the Tunnel of Hope museum

Olympic tour - Sarajevo

Departure & Return Location: On request Start time:  On request (Every day)  Description:  Bob Slight, Igman Ski Jumping and Nordic disciplines, Bjelasnica Alpin skiing Duration:  4-5 hours Number of persons:  from 1 person Language options: Bosnian, English, German Price:  45 € Included: Licensed tour guide, Transportation  Excludes:  Tickets, Lunch, Drinks

Hercegovina

Departure & Return Location:  at 08:00h or on request Start time: On request (every day) Description:  Konjic (Ćuprija), Počitelj (Unesco city), Blagaj (Derwish house), River Buna (Spring), Mostar (Old bridge) + bonus locations. Duration:  8-10 hours Number of persons:  from 1 person  Language options:  Bosnian, English, German  Price:  from 70 € Included: Licensed tour guide, Transportation Excludes: Tickets, Lunch, Drinks

Jajce-Travnik

Departure & Return Location:  at 08:00h or on request Start time:  On request (every day) Description:  City of Travnik, Born house of Ivo Andric – Nobel price for poetry, Fortress, Source of the Blue water, City of Jajce, last one Bosnian King was killed there, Highest Waterfall in whole Europe in the city centre of city of Jajce, 2 Lakes, Water Mills. Duration:  8-10 hours Number of persons:  from 1 person  Language options: Bosnian, English, German  Price:  from 70 € Included: Licensed tour guide, Transportation  Excludes: Tickets, Lunch, Drinks

Departure & Return Location: at 08:00h or on request Start time: On request (every day)  Description:  We will visit the place where the largest Genocide against a people was commiteed after the World Was II, the Srebrenica Memorial komplex – Potočari, the Memorial Cementery, the Multimedia room – watch a film about the genocide in Srebrenica 11.07.1995., the Genocide museum and see several exhibitions. Duration:  8 hours Number of persons:  from 1 person  Language options:  Bosnian, English, German  Price:  from 70 € Included: Licensed tour guide, Transportation Excludes:  Drinks

Tito's nuclear bunker

Departure & Return Location:  on request Start time: 09:00h or on request (every day)  Description:   Duration:   5 hours Number of persons:  from 1 person Language options:  Bosnian, English, German  Price:  from 55 € Included: Licensed tour guide, Transportation Excludes: Tickets

Bosnian Piramids - Visoko

Departure & Return Location:  on request Start time:  On request (every day)  Description:  You will visit highest Piramid all over the World and unique labirints inside. Duration:  4 hours Number of persons:  from 1 person Language options: Bosnian, English, German  Price:  from 45 € Included: Licensed tour guide, Transportation  Excludes:  Tickets, Drinks

Wine tour - Hercegovina + Mostar

Departure & Return Location:  on request Start time: on request (every day) Description:  Konjic (Old Bridge – Ćuprija), Vinery of Herzegowina – degustation of Wine, Mostar (Old Bridge), some BONUS places Duration:  8-10 hours (full day) Number of persons:  from 1 person Language options: Bosnian, English, German  Price:  from 70 € Included: Licensed tour guide, Transportation Excludes: Wine degustation, tickets, lunch, drinks

Waterfall Kravice + Mostar

Departure & Return Location : on request Start time: 08:00h or on request (every day)  Description: Konjic (Old Bridge – Ćuprija), Waterfall Kravice, Mostar (Old Bridge), some BONUS places  Duration: 8-10 hours (full day) Number of persons: from 1 person Language options: Bosnian, English, German  Price: from 70 €  Included: Licensed tour guide, Transportation  Excludes: Wine degustation, tickets, lunch, drinks

Medjugorje - Hercegovina + Mostar

Departure & Return Location:  on request  Start time:  08:00h or on request (every day) Description:  Konjic (Old bridge - Ćuprija), Mostar (Old bridge), Medjugorje, some BONUS places Duration:  8-10 hours Number of persons:  from 1 person Language options: Bosnian, English, German  Price:  from 70 € Included: Licensed tour guide, Transportation Excludes: Tickets, lunch, drinks

Tours on request

All kind of tours in bosnia - on request (rafting, biking, flyfishing, canoing, foto safari,city breakes, cultural tours, bridges tours, adriatic sea, skiing) .

To/from Airports in B&H and in Region (Sarajevo, Tuzla, Dubrovnik, Split, Zagreb, Belgrade) - Transfers on request

Unsere Reise mit 'Bosnia Travel Guide' war ein unvergessliches Abenteuer! Die Mischung aus Hercegovina und der Vinska Tura war perfekt. Der Guide führte uns nicht nur durch die Geschichte, sondern präsentierte auch lokale Weine. 'Bosnia Travel Guide' kümmerte sich um jedes Detail, um sicherzustellen, dass wir eine fantastische Zeit hatten.

Hans Müller, Deutschland

Our experience with 'Bosnia Travel Guide' during the visit to the Srebrenica Genocide Memorial was deeply moving. The guide provided a sensitive and informative perspective on the tragic events. The agency handled the tour with great respect and professionalism.

Emma Thompson, UK

Bosnia Travel Guide' pružio nam je sjajno iskustvo na Olimpijskoj turi u Sarajevu. Vodič je bio izuzetno stručan, a olimpijske planine su pružile nevjerojatan pejzaž. Agencija je bila vrlo prilagodljiva i osigurala je da doživimo sportsku povijest ovog područja.

Aleksandar Jovanović, Srbija

Ratna tura u Sarajevu s 'Bosnia Travel Guide' pružila nam je duboko emotivno iskustvo. Vodič je bio iznimno informativan, a agencija je postavila turu s poštovanjem prema povijesti.

Ana Novak, Slovenija

For additional information and questions, contact us.

+387 62 748 801 [email protected].

Contact us for transfers & tours

Herzegovina Travel Guide

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Wedged into the far south of the country, little Herzegovina is less known than its big brother, Bosnia, but this land of muscular peaks and rushing rivers arguably has more to see. Pride of place goes to Mostar and its famed Old Bridge, but it’s worth venturing outside the city to see little Blagaj , or to absorb the religious curiosities of Međugorije . Those on their way to Dubrovnik or Montenegro should also call in at Trebinje , by far the most pleasant town in the Republika Srpska.

Excursions from Mostar

Top image: Old town of Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina, with Stari Most bridge, Neretva river and old mosques © Boris Stroujko/Shutterstock

Using Mostar as a base, you have a whole slew of destinations to choose from. Unfortunately, the paucity of public transport means that it’s tough to see more than one in a day, and some places aren’t accessible at all: often your best option is to visit on a tour from Mostar.

Closest to Mostar is the village of BLAGAJ , just 12km to the east and accessible by local buses. Once you disembark, carry straight ahead through the town to the Tekija . Huddled into a niche in the cliff face, this wonky wooden building was once the residence of dervishes, and the interior – prayer rooms, washroom and kitchen – are all suitably spartan. The hammam , meanwhile, remains as it was. Right next to it, a never-ending torrent of water gushes out of the cliff, apparently reaching levels of 43,000 litres per second; some of this is skimmed off to make tea and coffee, which you can order at the adjacent terrace, including a chunk of lokum (Turkish delight).

Twenty six kilometres south of Mostar is the curious village of MEĐUGORIJE , a mere non-entity until June 1981, when a group of teenagers claimed to have been spoken to by the Virgin Mary here. Unlike Lourdes and Fatima, this has not been officially recognized by the Vatican, but that doesn’t stop pilgrims arriving in such numbers that there are now thousands of rooms available to accommodate them. The main sights here are the Church of St James and the nearby “Weeping Knee” statue, so named as it apparently flouts the laws of thermodynamics by dribbling out a constant flow of fluid.

Počitelj and the Kravice Waterfalls

A few kilometres south of Međugorije is the hillside village of POČITELJ , one of the most traditional in Herzegovina. The place is quite stunning, and dotted with remnants from the fifteenth century, most notably a citadel and a terrific mosque. Unfortunately there are no direct buses here, so it’s best to join a tour. Groups will likely swing through to see the nearby Kravice Waterfalls , which are not accessible on public transport. High, wide and handsome, the pool below is a great place for a dip.

On arrival at the train or bus station, you may be forgiven for thinking that the beauty of MOSTAR has been somewhat exaggerated. There then begins a slow descent to the Old Town, during which it becomes more and more apparent that it really is a very special place indeed. Attentive ears will pick out rushing streams, salesmen crying their wares, as well as church bells and muezzins competing for attention, while steep, cobblestoned streets slowly wind their way down to the fast-flowing, turquoise-blue Neretva River and its Old Bridge, incredibly photogenic even when the Speedo-clad mostari – the brave gents who dive from the apex – aren’t tumbling into the waters below. The city is becoming ever more popular with tourists, though the dearth of high-end accommodation means that most visit on a day-trip – bad news for anyone on the Old Bridge around lunchtime, though great news for anyone staying the night; the best time to come is first thing in the morning or early evening.

Mostar’s history is irrevocably entwined with that of its bridge. Like hundreds of locals, this was to fall victim in 1993 when the Croats and Muslims of the town, previously united against the Serbs, turned on each other: the conflict rumbled on for two long years, each side sniping at the other from opposing hills. Locals claim that, prior to the war, more than half of the city’s marriages were mixed, but the figure has since dwindled to nothing; while relations are now much improved, the truce remains uneasy.

The Old Town , spanning both sides of the Neretva, contains most things of interest in Mostar, and in its centre is the Old Bridge , focal point of the city and the obvious place to kick off your sightseeing. On the eastern bank is the more interesting Muslim part of town, while the west is mainly home to Catholic Croats.

The east bank

Lined with trinket stores, cobblestoned Kujundžiluk climbs uphill, soon leading to the Koski Mehmed Paša Mosque . For all its beauty, the panoply of souvenir sellers shows that tourism, rather than religious endeavour, is the current priority; eschew the 8KM it costs to climb the minaret and instead head down to the terrace where you can get superb head-on views of the bridge. Passing another mosque, the road segues quickly into modern Mostar, though pay attention to signs pointing out the Turkish House on your left, a fascinating peek into the Ottoman traditions of yesteryear. Above Kujundžiluk you’ll see the Cejvan Cehaj Mosque , Mostar’s oldest, on the way to the Museum of Herzegovina . Between the two lies a Muslim graveyard , and it’s hard not to be moved when you notice that almost everybody laid to rest here died the same year, 1993.

The Old Bridge

Transit point, dungeon, tourist attraction, war victim and macho launchpad, Mostar’s small, hump-backed Stari Most has led an interesting life. With tradesmen terrified by the rickety nature of its wooden predecessor and the fast-flowing Neretva below, it was built in the 1560s at the instigation of Suleyman the Magnificent. Those employed to guard the bridge were called the mostari , a term later borrowed when naming the city, and then used to describe the men who dive from the apex, 21m down into the Neretva. After 427 years in service, the bridge was strategically destroyed by Croat forces in November 1993, symbolizing the ethnic division of the city. There then began the arduous process of rebuilding it piece by piece, using new materials but following the same techniques used in its initial construction, before it reopened in 2004. The mostari are still there, day after day; they’ll try to work the crowd into shelling out an acceptable fee – typically around €25 – before taking the plunge. Join them if you dare, especially in July, when the annual diving festival marks the highlight of Mostar’s year.

Old Bridge Museum

Off the eastern end of the bridge is Helebija , a tower that now accommodates the enlightening Old Bridge Museum , spread over four levels, and topped with a viewing point. Of most interest is the archeological section, where you can see some of the few remaining chunks of the bridge that weren’t swept away, alongside footage of its painstaking rebirth. There’s sobering archive footage of the bridge’s downfall in the neighbouring Old Bridge Gallery , which also stocks a superb range of books on the war and the history of Bosnia in English.

The west bank

Tara , the bridge’s western tower, was once a dungeon into which prisoners were thrown to die, either from injury, starvation or – in rainy season – drowning. It’s now the base of the diving club, and the War Photo Exhibition , an array of startling shots taken during the troubles by Kiwi photographer Wade Goddard. Just 22 at the time, Goddard spent this period with a family inside the Old Town, wandering the streets to document the hardships. A little zigzagging will bring you to the Crooked Bridge – apparently built as a warm-up for the big boy, and almost as pleasing; although it (just about) remained standing during the war, it did finally collapse in 1999 due to flooding. Further along is the Tabhana , a former bathhouse now filled with bars and restaurants. Continue to the end of the street and you’ll eventually reach Bulevar, the main road that, during the war, served as the front line – still today, the road is lined with a succession of battered buildings.

The Republika Srpska’s most appealing town by a country mile, TREBINJE is tucked into Herzegovina’s southern extremity, and its proximity to Dubrovnik and the Montenegrin border makes it the ideal start or finish line to a race through the country. It’s most famed for the sixteenth-century Arslanagić Bridge – a longer version of the one in Mostar – which sits a ten-minute walk from the town centre; in what must have been quite a feat, it was moved here, stone by stone, from the village of Arslanagić some 5km away, in 1972.

Back in the centre is the Old Town , a pretty warren of streets now largely filled with cafés; better yet for coffee-slurping is elegant Jovan Dučić Trg , home to a daily market and almost totally cloaked with maple leaves ( platani ).

There are also a couple of still-functioning hilltop monasteries , notably fourteenth-century Tvrdoš 6km west of Trebinje, which are a delight to roam around and well worth the climb.

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written by Andy Turner

updated 26.04.2021

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Best guide book for Croatia, Bosnia, Montenegro? - Croatia Forum

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Best guide book for Croatia, Bosnia, Montenegro?

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Was looking at https://www.amazon.com/Lonely-Western-Balkans-Dragicevich-Elliott/dp/1741047293/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1490647435&sr=8-12&keywords=croatia+lonely+planet

But wondering if anyone had a better suggestion? Thanks!

The Western Balkans book tries to cover far too much ground in too little space. You're better off with separate guides for each country.

RIck Steve's Croatia book is also good, though a bit more selective in its destination coverage. (And it touches on Montenegro (just Kotor, I think) and Bosnia (Mostar), so if you don't plan on venturing beyond those two cities, it might be enough without the Bradt guides.

Thanks! I think I'll try the Rick Steve's one. I've been reading that the LP ones have been lacking lately.

Where are you going? There are specific regional guides as well.

My recommendation is checking out several books at a library before buying. There are a few other names I cannot think of at the moment.

Rick Steves guidebooks have the approach that they won't cover everything, just the highlights. His books always leave out a few things you'd still be interested in e.g. in Croatia, Zadar is not covered at all. The idea is to give people less to choose from, not overwhelm them with every possible choice when they likely don't have an endless amount of time to visit. And his advice tends to be subjective: this is great, this is not, skip that. Other guidebooks tend to be wishy-washy and make everyplace sound good, so it can be hard to figure out what you might want to see and what to skip. Some people don't like that approach.

Sorry for my mis-speak, Andrew. You're right, Steves does cover Sarejevo. (Still, if the OP plans on spending significant time in BiH, a more dedicated guide is probably better. (There is a new Bradt guide out in July, if he can wait.)

I do like RS's writing style; easy to read and simple to follow with nice detail in some instances. My only beef is that he excludes a lot and focuses on the touristy stuff only. When buying guidebooks I buy two for good coverage and like to know about the roads less traveled. But we do all have individual travel styles and goals in what we want to gain from our trips.

I used the old Bradt guide book for Bosnia and Herzegovina along with the Rick Steves book for my last trip.

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