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• Things to do | Exhibitions

Changi Chapel and Museum

Time Out says

After three years since it was closed for a major redevelopment, Changi Chapel and Museum is finally reopening its doors on May 19. The museum is, arguably, the most iconic of World War II (WWII) sites in Singapore – never mind the fact that the museum is housed in a purpose-built venue, and the chapel is a reconstruction (the original was shipped to Australia after the war). 

Following the update, the commemorative site features new content and artefacts showcased in an intimate and engaging format. History buffs can look forward to artefacts that complement those in other  WWII sites such as the  Former Ford Factory, and  Reflections of Bukit Chandu which is set to reopen later this year.

At Changi Chapel and Museum, the  main interest lies in the stories of industry and ingenuity within the  Prisoners-of-War (POW)  camps  in Singapore. And with new  multimedia offerings, you can uncover the  lesser-known accounts of the  internees, prison conditions back then, and legacies  left behind by three and a half years of the Japanese Occupation through an enhanced immersive experience.

Other key highlights here include old favourites such as a section of the Changi Prison Wall, a Morse code device that was concealed in a matchbox used by POWs, and replicas of various biblical murals that were painted to provide spiritual solace during the war. If it all gets too much, the chapel, which is located in the courtyard of the museum, makes a good spot for some quiet reflection. 

To welcome back visitors, the museum is hosting a digital reopening event via the museum’s official  Facebook  and  YouTube  pages on May 18 at 4pm. Tune in for interviews with families of former POWs who have contributed to the revamp, a curator’s highlights tour of the museum, and a tribute to the former POWs and civilian internees at Changi prison camp.

That's not all – you can also enjoy free admission from May 19 to 30. However, to better regulate the crowd and reduce waiting time, you are encouraged to pre-book your admission by timeslots online , and can do so for a maximum of two persons a week in advance. For more information, visit nhb.gov.sg/changichapelmuseum .

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New Changi Chapel & Museum: Discover Stories Of Courage & Resilience

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A never-before-seen 400-page diary, a dinner menu, a toothbrush fashioned from scratch. These artefacts at the revamped Changi Chapel and Museum (CCM) will shed light on the riveting personal stories of prisoners of war (POWs) and civilians interned in Changi prison camp during the Japanese Occupation.

Closed in 2018 for a major redevelopment to enhance the museum’s infrastructure and content, CCM will reopen its doors on 19 May 2021. Featuring donations and community loans from families of the internees, the museum will showcase 114 artefacts across eight galleries delving into the daily lives of the internees, their responses to the challenges they faced, and their eventual liberation.

Chung May Khuen, Director of the National Museum of Singapore , said, “Changi Chapel and Museum is widely known for its sensitive portrayal of the personal stories of the POWs and civilian internees who lived under difficult conditions and circumstances. When the National Museum of Singapore took over the redevelopment and management of CCM, we were mindful to retain the focus on these personal accounts within an enhanced narrative and new displays that highlight the stories of Changi. I would like to thank the overseas museums and families of former internees for contributing the artefacts presented in the new CCM for the first time. Many of the personal artefacts contributed by the families are now part of Singapore’s National Collection and will allow us to continue to share their stories with future generations. Given the National Museum’s strong focus on the World War Two narrative, CCM’s refreshed content and offerings will not only complement the overall narrative as told in the National Museum’s World War Two galleries, but also those of other World War Two institutions in Singapore, including the Former Ford Factory and the revamped World War Two commemorative centre at Bukit Chandu which will reopen later this year. I hope that visitors will find that the new CCM continues to honour the internees and find inspiration through their stories of courage and resilience, especially during these challenging, uncertain times.”

New Changi Chapel & Museum – An Enhanced, Immersive Experience

Centred on a narrative of remembrance and reflection, the new CCM seeks to present an immersive experience that combines personal artefacts with new multimedia offerings to convey the stories and experiences of POWs and civilian internees in Changi during the Japanese Occupation in Singapore. The narrative is presented in eight exhibition zones:

1. Changi Fortress

This section introduces the history of Changi, which in the 19th century was largely covered by mangrove swamps and rainforests. In the 1920s, this quiet idyll began to change as the British started to construct batteries and barracks to protect Singapore from attack.

2. Fallen Fortress

This section covers the fall of Singapore as well as the fate that soldiers and civilians alike faced in the aftermath.

3. The Interned

Approximately 48,000 soldiers and civilians were marched to Changi, which was converted into a vast prison camp. This section spotlights the stories of the men, women, and children who were interned in Changi.

4. Life as POW

The day-to-day lives of those imprisoned in Changi are introduced in this section, along with remnants of the actual Changi Gaol.

5. Resilience in Adversity

This section offers a glimpse into both the hardships that the internees faced as well as how they responded to their situation.

6. Creativity in Adversity

Creative expression was deeply important to the internees, who found ways to write, draw, read, craft, play sports, and even stage concerts and plays. This section showcases their creative works.

7. Liberation

Japan surrendered on 15 August 1945, bringing an end to the three and a half years of the Japanese Occupation of Singapore. This section captures the internees’ feelings about their liberation as well as what happened immediately after the war.

8. Legacies

The legacy of Changi prison camp continues to live on in the present day. In this concluding section, visitors can look up the names and stories of the internees, and view some artefacts that were produced to remember how they had survived the internment.

In addition to the opportunity to view the personal artefacts up close, visitors will encounter a projection show that sets the context of CCM’s narrative with an introduction of the key milestones over the three-and-a-half year Japanese Occupation. Visitors can also step into a re-created Changi Gaol cell where the internees were housed to get a sense of the cramped living confines of the internees. The re-created cell includes historical recordings of conversations between the internees which offer a glimpse into their living conditions and daily experiences.

New Changi Chapel & Museum – Expanded Showcase Of War Histories & Lived Experiences

The new CCM will feature 82 artefacts and objects that are on display for the first time. During the revamp, NMS worked closely with members of the public and interest groups, including families of former internees, to collect stories and personal objects of the former internees. 37 of the new artefacts are donations and loans from the public, making up nearly one-third of the 114 artefacts on display.

These include a never-before-seen 400-page diary and a Kodak Baby Brownie camera, which were painstakingly hidden by some of the internees. The diary belonged to Mr Arthur Westrop, who wrote every entry as a letter to his wife, who was in Africa. The camera belonged to Sergeant John Ritchie Johnston and was given to him by his wife. Johnston managed to bring the camera with him to Changi and hid it from his captors during the entire period of his incarceration.

Other familiar and significant objects, such as a section of the Changi Wall, a Morse code device hidden in a matchbox that was used by internees to transmit messages,

and replicas of biblical murals painted to give internees spiritual comfort continue to be key highlights.

Building on existing databases including original camp registers and nominal rolls from Changi and Sime Road as well as the efforts of various individuals and interest groups such as historian Ronald Bridge who researches the history of POWs and civilian internees in Asia, The Changi Museum Pte Ltd (the company that managed CCM from 2001 to 2017) and the Children, Families and Friends of the Far East Prisoners of War (COFEPOW) network, the revamped CCM features a “living” database of over 50,000 POWs and civilian internees. Visitors can access specific, personal stories and are also welcome to contribute any memories they have of the internees to add to and preserve the legacies of those who passed through Changi’s gates.

New Changi Chapel & Museum – Improved Spaces & Facilities

In addition to the new artefacts and exhibits on display, the revamped CCM also boasts new features to enhance visitors’ experience. This includes a glass and timber canopy that has been constructed in the Chapel space. It is designed to provide visitors with some shade in the Chapel space while retaining the open-air atmosphere reminiscent of the original World War Two chapels which were typically built in the open during the Occupation.

For contactless ticketing and assistance, as well as additional museum content via mobile devices, visitors are encouraged to access the CCM chatbot for audio tours, exhibit captions in the four national languages and Japanese, and even virtual visits to nearby World War Two-related sites. The chatbot will be available on 17 May from 12 noon. From 19 May 2021, CCM will open Tuesdays to Sundays from 930am to 530pm, and admission is free for Singapore citizens and permanent residents.

Visitors can also purchase CCM publications and museum-inspired merchandise from the museum shop, and enjoy a meal at the museum’s F&B outlet, The Bark Café.

New Changi Chapel & Museum – Opening Programmes

To commemorate the reopening of CCM, all visitors will enjoy free admission from 19 to 30 May 2021. Guided tours of the gallery and a recorded orchestral performance based on the experiences of the POWs will be presented during its Opening Weekend on 22 and 23 May.

Visitors are encouraged to pre-book their museum admission tickets and sign up for the opening weekend programmes ahead of their visit from 17 May, 12 noon onwards. For more information, please visit www.changichapelmuseum.gov.sg or CCM’s Facebook and Instagram pages to book tickets or for more information on the museum.

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Home » Singapore » Visit Changi Chapel And Museum With Kids In Singapore

Visit Changi Chapel And Museum With Kids In Singapore

Revamped memorial site and exhibition.

Most people who have lived in Singapore would know that our garden city has come a long way from once being occupied by the Japanese during World War II. And to remember the past, there are many sites and landmarks in Singapore with cultural significance to visit.

One such landmark is Changi Chapel and Museum, tucked away in the far east of Changi. Newly revamped in May 2021, there are 8 galleries within that document the area’s early beginnings, and taking visitors through the war era through videos and interactive screens. There is even a recreated prison cell to show firsthand what it was like back then!

Those with an interest in history can also spend time observing the new artifacts collected and displayed in the museum. This can also be an educational journey for little ones, where they can get the chance to see rare items from yesteryears.

Once you’re done exploring the interiors, head outdoors to spend a quiet and pensive moment at the Chapel. Don’t leave without paying the museum shop and eatery, The Bark Café, a visit!

Why Little Steps Loves It:​

Singapore has a rich cultural history. Sites like these will help educate and shed light on the past for both kids and adults.

Who It's Perfect For:

Families of all ages, and those who want to learn more about Singapore’s history.

What Else:​

Entry is free for Singaporeans and PRs. Bookings are required for admission, with dates open 7 days in advance. Admission costs SG$8 for adults and SG$5 for seniors for tourists and foreigners. All kids 6 years old and below get free entry!

Where To Find It:​

• Changi Chapel And Museum
• 1000 Upper Changi Rd N, Singapore 507707
• +65 6242 6033
• https://www.nhb.gov.sg/changichapelmuseum

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Meet Temi – your friendly museum guide who happens to be a robot

Mention museums and you’ll usually think of history, artifacts, and antiques.

But head down to Changi Chapel and Museum, and you’ll get a dose of cutting-edge technology. There, one of the museum guides moves around on wheels and welcomes you with audio and videos on a flat screen.

That’s right, Temi is a commercial robot that’s been programmed and trained as a tour guide for the museum featuring life as prisoners of war during World War II.

What’s Temi and what can it do?

Though petite, with height reaching the waist level of an average adult, Temi is fully equipped with the necessary intellect and wisdom to navigate and lead museum visitors through various exhibits entirely on its own.

It enhances the museum experience for visitors by narrating stories and playing video content that adds context to the physical exhibitions on display. All visitors have to do is register at the entrance and use the touchscreen on Temi to interact with the robot. As such, visitors can engage Temi at their convenience instead of waiting for scheduled tours by human guides.

How does Temi do what it does?

The project started when the National Heritage Board approached GovTech for solutions to complement its human tour guides. After considering several options, the team decided to build upon an existing, commercially available robot for its mechanical tour guide.

GovTech engineers developed a customised app to display the videos for visitor viewing. They also handled the mapping of the path that Temi would move in the museum. This involved detailing every waypoint in the tour route so that the robot could move autonomously.

The lidar sensor on Temi enables it to detect obstacles in the path so it doesn’t knock into other visitors or objects that are in its way. Contractors were also engaged to paste stickers on certain translucent glass doors so that Temi would be able to recognise the door as an object it should avoid.

Temi is also able to navigate back to the charging station when it is low on battery, so no human effort is needed to carry it back when the battery runs out.

Any special tricks up Temi’s sleeves?

Doors are not an issue for Temi! The robot can trigger signals to open automated sliding doors and keep them open while it passes through.

It can also automatically lower the volume of other exhibit videos that are playing near the robot. This is so that visitors can focus on the content that Temi is presenting. When Temi moves to another area, the volume of the exhibit videos will revert to the original level.

To enable these functions, the GovTech team had to retrofit Temi with some hardware known as DECADA Edge. The device acts as a gateway to control the opening of the glass doors and lower the volume of the sound system. This is done by relaying and transmitting messages from the robot, enabling it to communicate with other sensors.

What’s next for Temi?

Temi is deployed at Changi Chapel and Museum as a proof of concept. If the guide proves to be a hit with visitors, more of such robot guides will be deployed to other museums so that more## visitors can benefit from them.

There is also potential to further develop Temi’s ability to interact with other tech equipment. For example, it is possible to programme Temi to coordinate a fully synchronised visual and audio show by connecting it to different lighting, sound, and IoT systems. This will make for an immersive tour experience that engages visitors’ different senses.

Curious to find out more? Then head on down to Changi Chapel and Museum to meet your friendly robot guide!

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Our Favourite Playgrounds of Yesteryears

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The WWII Stories of Changi Chapel, Cross and Murals

The Changi Chapel and Museum is one of the war museums in Singapore, telling stories of the harsh and difficult days of the prisoners-of-war (POWs) during the Japanese Occupation.

When Singapore fell to the Japanese in 1942, tens of thousands of British and Australian troops were held at the internment camp at Changi. It also detained, beside the military personnel, the Eurasians and civilians related to the British. Many POWs were later sent to Japanese-occupied territories at Thailand, Manchuria and Taiwan for hard labour, and only some managed to survive and return. It was estimated that throughout the occupation, as many as 90,000 passed through the Changi internment camp.

Changi Chapel

The Changi Chapel is modelled after the St George’s Chapel, one of the small churches built by the POWs during their internment at Changi. It was started by Reverend Eric Cordingly (1911-1976), who was an army chaplain deployed to Singapore in early 1942. Just a few days after his arrival, the British surrendered Singapore to the Japanese.

Eric Cordingly was interned as a POW together with other British and Australian soldiers until the end of war in 1945. The poor living conditions, malnutrition and ill treatment by the Japanese guards saw many POWs perished in the internment camp. Accordingly to Eric Cordingly’s burial returns book, he buried more than 600 comrades during his times as a POW. He officiated as many as five to six burials a week in the month of May in 1942.

Despite the inhumane treatment, the Japanese did not really restrict the POWs’ religious activities in the camp. Hence, Eric Cordingly and the other POWs decided to establish a chapel. According to the archives, there were four versions of the St George’s Church built during the war. The first was housed at a former mosque used by the Indian soldiers of the British Army, who gave Eric Cordingly permission to use it. He would conducted the church’s first service on 22 February 1942.

When the POWs were sent by the Japanese to work on the notorious Thai-Burma’s Death Railway, they also built a similar small chapel – the second St George’s Church – at Kanchanaburi. Those who had survived and returned to Singapore, built two more St George’s Churches at Changi Gaol. For all three versions of St George’s Church, the POWs painstakingly savaged all the scrap materials they could find to build the chapels and their altars and furniture.

Throughout the war, the various St George’s Chapels provided comfort and relief to the POWs, giving them the will and hope to live on.

Changi Cross

After the first St George ‘s Chapel was established, Eric Cordingly designed a cross and asked his fellow POWs to make it for the chapel’s altar. One of the POWs, Staff Sergeant Harry Stogden, was able to construct the cross at the prison workshop using a brass howitzer shell case . Another POW Tim Hemmings used an old umbrella stem to engrave their regiments’ badges on the cross. It became known as the Changi Cross. By the sides of the cross was a pair of pewter candlesticks. After the war, Eric Cordingly brought the cross back to Cheltenham.

The idea of a Changi Chapel museum began in 1953 at the Changi Prison, where one of its hospital wards was converted into a chapel. But as the visits to the chapel grew, it caused inconvenience to the prison’s operations.

Hence, in 1988, Singapore decided to build a replica chapel next to the Changi Prison, where a small museum was also set up. The Changi Chapel and Museum served as the site of remembrance for the visitors and former POWs to commemorate the history and significance of the St George’s Church during the Second World War.

In the late 1990s, due to the expansion of the Changi Prison, the replica chapel was relocated to its current location along Upper Changi Road North. On 15 February 2001, 59 years after the Fall of Singapore, the Changi Chapel and Museum was officially opened.

On the altar of the replica chapel displays the original Changi Cross, which was loaned by the Cordingly family since 1992.

During the Japanese Occupation, other than St George’s Church, the POWs and civilian internees at Changi also set up several other places of worship, such as the St Luke’s Chapel, Our Lady of Christians Roman Catholic Chapel, St Paul’s Church and the Synagogue of Ohel Jacob. Only St Luke’s Chapel and Our Lady of Christians Roman Catholic Chapel survived till this day.

Our Lady of Christians Roman Catholic Chapel was built by Australian POWs in 1944. After the war, the church was dismantled and shipped to Australia. In 1988, the original building was reassembled at the Royal Military College in Duntroon to serve as the poignant memorial to the 35,000 former Australian POWs.

Changi Murals

St Luke’s Chapel was housed at the former Roberts Barrack’s (present-day Changi Air Base West) Block 151. It was where former POW Stanley Warren (1917-1992) painted his famous Changi Murals . Between 1942 and 1943, a very sick Stanley Warren, inspired by his pastor, comrades as well as his faith, carried out and completed the Christian-theme works.

With scarce resources available, Stanley Warren managed to paint a total of five wall murals. He eventually survived the war and returned to England. Roberts Barracks was returned to the British artillery who then transferred it to the Royal Air Force (RAF) in 1947. One popular version of the story on how the murals were “rediscovered” was that one of the servicemen, in the fifties, found the murals hidden under the distemper paint applied by the Japanese. Under much persuasion by the RAF, Stanley Warren returned to Singapore in 1963 to help restore the murals. He would return to Singapore two more times, in 1982 and 1988, for the restoration works at the former chapel which had became a part of the Changi Air Base premises.

As the location of the original Changi Murals is restricted to public access, the Changi Chapel and Museum showcases the replicas of Stanley Warren’s murals for visitors to appreciate his priceless works of significant historical values. ( Refer to Heritage Tour around Colonial Changi for the original Changi Murals)

Changi Gaol

Built in 1936, the former Changi Gaol was designed to accommodate up to 600 prisoners. When Singapore fell in 1942, the Japanese used it to detain the civilians and families of the British and Australian troops. 3,248 internees were packed into the prison for more than two years. Out of these internees, 2,598 were men, 408 were women and the rest were children.

The filth and misery inside the gaol was indescribable. It was infested with bed bugs and cockroaches, and the latrine buckets and garbage tins were used for cooking and the distribution of food. Hunger, diseases, tortures and deaths became daily affairs at Changi Gaol.

The Changi Chapel and Museum displays an original prison door of Changi Gaol. It was part of a prison cell meant for a single occupant. Such doors had eye-level and knee-level spyholes for the guards to observe the prisoners. During the war, four internees, sometimes up to eight, were crammed into the cell. There were no beddings, so the internees typically slept on the bare concretes inside the cells.

The Japanese guards would use a muster gong to gather the internees for parades and headcounts. This roll call was known as tenko in Japanese, and was instituted in November 1942 at the Changi internment camp. By 1944, as many as 10,000 internees were packed into Changi Gaol, almost 16 times its intended capacity.

The Changi Chapel and Museum opens from Tuesdays to Sundays between 9:30am and 5:30pm, closing every Monday except Public Holidays.

Published: 2 October 2022

Updated: 6 October 2022

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2 Responses to The WWII Stories of Changi Chapel, Cross and Murals

One can buy Changi Murals postcards and a fantastic book about Stanley Warren’s story (by Peter Stubbs) at the Changi Chapel and Museum.

Thank you for reviving this history!

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Changi Neighbourhood Guide — 11 Things to do in the East Besides Visiting Jewel Changi Airport

Other than having a world-class airport, what else is there in the East?

You’d probably only know Changi because our airport and Jewel mall is located here. In fact, as someone who stays in the East, these are the only two reasons why I’d ever visit this place.

But after digging a little, I’ve realised that it’s such an underrated neighbourhood.

From hidden wildlife, to learning more about Singapore’s history, here are 11 fun things to see, eat and do in the Changi neighbourhood!

1) Explore Intertidal Zones

Photo credit: @untamedpathssg via Facebook

You’ll have to get up early in the morning for this but trust us, it’s worth it.

Changi Beach Park stretches from Changi Point to Changi Ferry Terminal and is a popular destination for intertidal walks. On some mornings when the tide is low, you can see various marine wildlife such as hermit crabs and sea cucumbers.

If you’d like a little more insight into the life around the intertidal zones, look out for tours like The Untamed Paths who will have expert guides point out all the cool stuff you can find!

Cost: From S$90/pax Opening hours:  24 hours ( check the low tide schedule before you go ) How to get there:  From Tampines East MRT Exit B, take bus 9 and alight at Changi Beach CP 2 bus stop (16 stops)

2) Indulge in Fresh Catches

Photo credit: @smithmarine via Facebook

Get your meal caught fresh from the first floating seafood restaurant in Singapore — Smith Marine .

It’s a unique restaurant experience you can get in the East, with views overlooking Pulau Ubin and a calming sea breeze to help you forget about the busy city life.

And don’t worry, you won’t have to swim there. There’ll be a ferry to take you there and back from Changi Point Ferry Terminal, but be sure to make a reservation first.

Opening hours:  10AM – 7PM How to get there:  From Tampines East MRT Exit B, take bus 59 and alight at Changi Village Ter bus stop (16 stops) — 3min walk to Changi Point Ferry Terminal

Read more: 12 Unique Restaurants in Singapore Even Non-Foodies Will Find Impressive

3) Check Out a Monster Gun

Photo credit: Dom LaVigne via Facebook

Built in the late 1930s, Johore Battery was once part of Singapore’s coastal defence system.

It consisted of three 15-inch guns, aptly named Monster Guns because of its massive size. To prevent enemies from obtaining it, it was destroyed by the British during World War II.

In 1991, the Singapore Prisons Service discovered the site and a replica of the 15-inch gun was recreated. It’s now a tourist attraction with several outdoor and indoor dining options around the area!

Entrance Fee: Free Opening hours:  24 hours How to get there:  From Tampines East MRT Exit D, take bus 29 and alight at Changi Baptist Ch bus stop (7 stops) — 7min walk to Johore Battery

4) Grab a Home-brewed Beer

Photo credit: @littleislandbrewingco via Facebook

Famous for their locally brewed beers, Little Island Brewing Co. is a Singaporean craft microbrewery, smokehouse and restaurant.

It’s a perfect pick-me-up after jogging or cycling from the nearby Changi Beach. The restaurant’s ambience also gives off a chill vibe, with an alfresco dining area for you to enjoy a delicious meal under the starry sky.

Opening hours:  12PM – 10:30PM (Weekdays), 11AM – 10:30PM (Weekends) How to get there:  From Tampines East MRT Exit D, take bus 29 and alight at Changi Village Hotel bus stop (21 stops) — 3min walk to Little Island Brewing Co.

5) Visit a Cool Navy Museum 

Photo credit: I Love Museums via Facebook

Don’t let distance keep you away from this attraction, because the Republic of Singapore Navy Museum is definitely worth the long travel to the East.

This three-storey museum in Changi has both indoor and outdoor galleries, which focuses on the Navy’s capabilities and history. Some artefacts featured are components from early warships and old guns.

The museum is currently under renovation. In the meantime, you can check out a virtual tour instead!

Entrance Fee: Free Opening hours:   Closed until August 2022 How to get there:  From Tanah Merah MRT Exit B, take bus 35 and alight at Opp Changi Naval Base bus stop (6 stops) — 5min walk to Republic of Singapore Navy Museum

6) Try Delicious Halal Chinese Cuisine

Photo credit: @tangteahousesingapore via Facebook

Tang Tea House is known for its delicious halal-certified zi char and dim sum prepared by Shanghainese chefs, such as chicken pau , har kow and siew mai .

It also has a wide selection of seafood, meats, noodles and desserts to satisfy your hunger.

Opening hours:  11AM – 10PM How to get there:  From Upper Changi MRT, take bus 2 and alight at Blk 5 bus stop (18 stops) — 3min walk to Tang Tea House

7) Plan a Weekend Getaway

Other than the Southern Islands , Pulau Ubin is another quick weekend getaway we can get in Singapore!

Catch the bumboat from Changi Point Ferry Terminal to reach the island and go on a scenic cycling adventure , kayak through mangroves or set up camp — there’s plenty of things to do on Pulau Ubin.

If you’re not sure where to start or what else there is to do, you can also check out our guide !

*Note: Due to current COVID restrictions, campsites are currently closed

Cost for bumboat: S$4/pax Operating hours:  6AM – 7PM How to get there:  From Tampines East MRT Exit B, take bus 59 and alight at Changi Village Ter bus stop (16 stops) — 3min walk to Changi Point Ferry Terminal

Read more: Pulau Ubin Guide — A Local’s Guide to Exploring This Offshore Island in Singapore

8) Learn About Our WWII History

Photo credit: Changi Chapel and Museum

What better way to learn about World War II than an engaging and immersive experience at a war museum?

Featuring eight exhibition zones, Changi Chapel and Museum is dedicated to Singapore’s history during the Japanese Occupation from 1942 to 1945.

Through artifacts donated by families of the former prisoners detained in the Changi prison camp, visitors can learn about the lesser-known stories of these prisoners of war.

Entrance Fee: Free (For Singapore Citizens and Permanent Residents) Opening hours:  9:30AM – 5:30PM (Last entry at 5PM), Closed on Mon How to get there:  From Upper Changi MRT, take bus 2 and alight at Opp Changi Chapel Museum bus stop (7 stops) — 5min walk to Changi Chapel and Museum

9) Feast on the East’s Best Nasi Lemak

Photo credit: @hungrybird.sg via Facebook

Even if you’ve never been to Changi before, you must’ve heard of Changi Village Hawker Centre. After all, it’s a famous battleground for nasi lemak stalls.

Located right next to Changi Point Ferry Terminal, there are a couple of stalls to get this Malay dish — Mizzy Corner Nasi Lemak and International Muslim Food Stall Nasi Lemak to name a few.

Which one’s the best? Head down and decide for yourself 😉

Opening hours:  6AM – 2AM (Varies for different stalls) How to get there:  From Tampines East MRT Exit B, take bus 59 and alight at Changi Village Ter bus stop (16 stops) — 2min walk to Changi Village Hawker Centre

10) Lepak at a Tranquil Beach Park

Photo credit: Martin Koh via Facebook

It’s not as popular as East Coast Park or Pasir Ris Park, but Changi Beach Park is definitely a hidden gem in the East.

This beach is one of the oldest coastal parks in Singapore and gives off a kampong vibe — without a HDB building in sight.

Home to a huge playground area and fascinating intertidal walks , it’s perfect for a relaxing and fun day out surrounded by nature.

Opening hours:  24 hours How to get there:  From Tampines East MRT Exit B, take bus 9 and alight at Changi Beach CP 2 bus stop (16 stops)

11) Catch a Beautiful Sunset

Photo credit: @kkf1953 via Instagram

End the day off by catching a beautiful sunset while strolling along Changi Point Coastal Walk.

The boardwalk spans 2.2km from Changi Creek in the east to the western rocky coast near Changi Beach Club. Along the boardwalk, there are six sections to explore — Creek Walk, Beach Walk, Sailing Point Walk, Cliff Walk, Kelong Walk and Sunset Walk.

As its name suggests, you can enjoy the best, unobstructed view of the sunset at Sunset Walk towards the end of the trail.

Operating hours:  24 hours How to get there:  From Tampines East MRT Exit B, take bus 59 and alight at Blk 5 bus stop (15 stops) — 4min walk to Changi Point Coastal Walk (East entrance)

Rediscover Singapore’s Local Neighbourhoods

With plenty of unconventional local experiences like intertidal walks and historical sites to check out, the neighbourhood of Changi is definitely worth the travel (and not just to the airport).

If you live in the East and the next time someone asks “what’s there to do in the East?”, share this article with them!

Read more: Yishun-Sembawang Neighbourhood Guide — 9 Lesser Known things to do in the North of Singapore

Featured image credit:   @untamedpathssg via Facebook

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A light where there was only darkness: The Changi Murals

It was an air of quiet calm that greeted me as I stepped into a room where the ghosts of a time we may otherwise have forgotten continue to haunt us. The room, bathed in the glow of light painted gold by the ochre of the walls the light reflected off, seemed to extend a warm welcome which it would have in the cold dark days when it offered hope when there might only have been despair.

The Chapel of St. Luke on the ground floor of Block 151.

The room, converted into the makeshift Chapel of St. Luke (dedicated to St. Luke the physician) during the Japanese Occupation, was where a Prisoner-of-War (POW) by the name of Stanley Warren who held the rank of Bombardier in the Royal Artillery, weakened by a severe bout of renal disorder and dysentery, drew on whatever reserves he had left in strength, to decorate, remarkably, two of the chapel’s walls with five paintings of biblical scenes from the New Testament which along with the chapel became a light in the darkness of days uncertain.

The chapel and murals were a light in the darkness of captivity for prisoners during the dark days of World War II.

The chapel which occupies a room in what was Barrack Block 151 in Roberts Barracks, which together with the neighbouring barracks and nearby Changi Prison became an extended gaol that the Japanese forces used to hold the large numbers of POWs they held. Block 151 was made part of the gaol’s hospital becoming part of a dysentery wing which included several other surrounding buildings.

Block 151 is one of a few structures from WWII which remain in the area.

Another view of Block 151.

Even if not for the weakened state of the painter, putting the paintings we now know as the ‘Changi Murals’ on the walls would have required an incredible effort. Based on information provided by the expert guide Mr. Vickna, we were told of how paints, pigments and even brushes were in extremely short supply, and they had to be procured through whatever means available – some which may have even put the men involved at risk.

A photograph of the late Stanley Warren who passed away in 1992.

There was also a huge degree of improvisation involved – the colour blue for example, was obtained from crushing chalk used on billiard cues.

A map of the POW camp sketched by Stanley Warren.

Too ill to be sent to work on the Death Railway in Siam, which he is said to have said probably saved his life, Warren found himself recuperating in a ward above the chapel in 1942, Warren and many around him drew on the comfort provided by what could be heard of the strains of Merbecke’s arrangement of the Litany being sung in the chapel.

Mr Vickna the guide.

It was hearing the voices in song throughout his slow recovery which was to serve as an inspiration for Warren who was approached by the chaplain who knew of his artistic background to decorate the makeshift chapel. He struggled through the first, The Nativity, for over two months, managing to complete it in time for Christmas in 1942. Warren was to complete four more works – the last, a mural of St. Luke in Prison, was completed in May 1943.

The Nativity was the first mural painted. On a copy painted on a wallboard in 1963, Warren painted an albatross in place of the horse’s head.

A feature of the murals is how Warren also used it depict what he did see around him – many of the faces were those of his fellow POWs and in the third mural, The Crucifixion, which I thought was the most moving, we do also see slaves dressed in loincloths in the same way the men around him were dressed in their rags. The words found above the mural “Father forgive them for they know not what they do” were we were told also a reference to his captors and the slaves crucifying Christ being the “slaves” many of his captors were to authority.

The Ascension – the second mural.

The murals were initially thought to have been destroyed – the Japanese later converted the room into a storeroom and were thought to have broken down walls as well as painting over the remaining murals. They were thought to have been discovered by Royal Air Force (RAF) personnel in 1958 and a search was made through the press in the UK for the painter – the name Stanley Warren cropping up only when a short description of the chapel and a reference to the murals was found in a book “The Churches of Captivity in Malaya”, which was discovered in the Far East Air Force Educational Library in Changi.

The Crucifixion, the third mural which was partly damaged by a doorway made in the wall – the evidence of which can still be seen.

Then an art teacher in London, Warren was invited to restore the murals, first refusing to do so on the fear of having to confront the demons of the dark days in which he executed the work. He did eventually return after much soul searching – first just before Christmas in 1963, and then again in 1982 and 1988. One of the murals does remain unrestored – the last, the lower part of which was destroyed when the wall was knocked down by the Japanese.

The Last Supper – the fourth mural.

It was one for which Warren did not have a copy of his original sketch of (which was found in the possession of a fellow prisoner later in 1985), and decided to leave what remains of in its original condition. Warren did paint a copy of it, a photograph of which can be seen below the mural in which he replaced one of the figures he orginally painted.

The unrestored upper portion of the fifth mural, St. Luke in Prison.

The Crucifixion is also one which was partly destroyed when a doorway was made in the wall – the evidence of which can still be seen.

A copy of the fifth mural which Warren painted.

Another interesting fact was one that we did learn about The Nativity mural – it was thought to have been destroyed and a copy was painted on a wallboard which was eventually removed by the RAF. The copy was one on which Warren replaced the head of the horse found on the original work with an albatross to as a symbol of flying men of the RAF which was using the barracks at the time. A part the original mural – that of the horse’s head, was found by one of the boys from the Singapore Armed Forces (SAF) Boys School (which occupied the building in the 1980s) tasked with helping Warren to restore the murals in 1982.

A view of the chapel.

The work, which is said to have offered solace and hope to the many prisoners who used the chapel, is today a reminder not just of a event we should never again want to find ourselves confronting, but also one of the triumph of the human spirit in the face of adversity. The building which houses the chapel, lies today in a restricted area within the Republic of Singapore Air Force’s (RSAF) Changi Air Base (West) and I am grateful to MINDEF’s NS Policy Department and the RSAF for the opportunity to be moved by the murals in its original setting. A copy of the murals to which members of the public have access to, can be found in the Changi Museum .

The chapel offered hope where there seemed to have been none.

Mr Vickna speaking about The Ascension.

The corridor outside the chapel.

Information on Stanley Warren and the Changi Murals

• Infopedia on the Changi Murals
• Infopedia on Stanley Warren
• Detailed information on the Changi Murals

The Royal Anglian & Royal Lincolnshire Regimental Association *

• Australian War Memorial Site on the Changi Murals

* with photographs of it in the condition it when it was originally uncovered

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« The lost waterfront Now you can get yourself printed in 3D »

Information

• Author : Jerome Lim, The Wondering Wanderer
• Date : 20 September 2013
• Tags: 1942 , 1943 , Block 151 , Bombardier Stanley Warren , Changi , Changi Air Base (West) , Changi Gaol , Changi Gaol Hospital , Chapel of St. Luke , Dysentery Wing , History , Japanese Occupation , Military Heritage , Military History , Photographs , Photography , Prisoners of War , Roberts Barracks , Royal Air Force , Royal Artillery , Second World War , Singapore , St. Luke in Prison , St. Luke's Chapel , Stanley Warren , The Ascension , The Changi Murals , The Crucifixion , The Last Supper , The Nativity , World War II
• Categories : Changi & Somapah , Conservation , Forgotten Buildings , Forgotten Places , Heritage Sites , Heritage Trails , Military Sites , Reminders of Yesterday , Singapore , World War II Sites

6 responses

[…] Blog at the Singapore Blog Awards in the past two years. He wrote a sombre account of his visit in A light where there was only darkness: The Changi Murals. Jerome kindly shares the precious Changi Murals images he took in my […]

It will be nice to be able to view the paintings. I frequently hear from my dad that he slept in the exact same room during his days serving the British Royal Air force. It was rumored to be haunted and the British soldiers dare not sleep in there. Nice write up.

In April 1973, I was a recruit in Platoon 3, Alpha Company, !st SBMT. My comrades and I were not aware that we were staying in such a famous block. One day, our platoon commander, before our passing out parade, Lta Hamid brought us into the room which was always locked and introduced us to the Changi Murals. It was so beautiful and also show the spirit of the POWs that endure the sufferings of WW II. This moment is deeply engraved in my mind.

Thank you so very much for this article and superb photography that bring to life such a time as this.

Thank you so much for a brilliant write up and letting us see the murals in their original setting. My husband was stationed their for two years in the early seventies and often spoke of them, lovely to see them. His uncle was a POW there and never coped with life after, lovely man and such a shame. Senseless brutality to such beautiful people!! Heartbreaking xx

I lived for years in block 151 in the early 50’s and really appreciated the murals

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