tour d'argent wikipedia

Michelin-Starred La Tour d'Argent In Paris Served Historic Kings

If you had the chance to take a step inside the film "Ratatouille" and experience the world-class dining experience of the fictional Gusteau's restaurant, would you? As it turns out, you can come pretty close. The restaurant that was the source of inspiration for the film has a long history of serving well-known guests. Launched back in 1582, La Tour d'Argent in Paris is said to be the oldest restaurant in the city, and its doors have seen the faces of royalty and prominence ever since.

When the restaurant first opened back in the 16th century, it was a hotspot for kings and princes because it was a safe location for those of noble status to dine in public (it's located across the Seine River where the king's palace used to be). King Henry IV inaugurated the use of the first fork at the restaurant, which was an up-and-coming utensil only seen in Italy at the time.

On a more extravagant note, four world emperors — Alexander II, Czar of the Russian Empire, the Czarevitch Alexander III, Wilhelm I, King of Prussia, and Germany's Prince Otto von Bismarck — met for dinner at La Tour d'Argent in 1867, feasting on a hefty menu that included five appetizers, six main courses, and four desserts.

La Tour d'Argent gets a makeover

Since its days serving historical kings, La Tour d'Argent has welcomed other high-profile guests like Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, John F. Kennedy, Richard Nixon, Mikhail Gorbachev, and Boris Yeltsin. The restaurant became known for its iconic pressed duck, classic and ornately decorated interior, and Michelin-star status . Before 1996, La Tour d'Argent held three Michelin stars, dropping to one that year. To modernize the space and turn things around, the restaurant closed for remodeling between April 2022 and August 2023.

The renovations were put in the hands of architect Franklin Azzi, who wanted to retain the restaurant's historical charm. The recipe for the famous pressed duck remains the same, but the kitchen has expanded into the face of the dining room, so guests now have an impressive view of their meal being prepared. Moreover, there are now three additional spaces for breakfast, drinks, and overnight stays. In the fall of 2023, La Tour d'Argent served its 1,178,727th pressed duck — a numerical symbol of its long and rich history.

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It was in the 16th century that the first inn opened its doors at its current address at 15 quai de la Tournelle, a stone's throw from Notre Dame. Since then, the Tour d'Argent has maintained its reputation for fine dining and its famous signature dish, duck in blood .

Stone with a silvery sheen

On the banks of the Seine , an inn was opened in 1582, adjacent to the Château de la Tournelle, built of silvery stone. This was the birth of the Hostellerie de la Tour d'Argent, which has seen all the world’s luminaries pass through over the centuries: Mme de Sévigné , Tsar Alexander III, the King of Prussia, Bismarck and many others.

André Terrail bought the Tour d'Argent in 1911, and gave it its present appearance by raising the building in 1936. The restaurant was installed on the 6th floor, thus enjoying an unrestricted view of the Seine . A family business for three generations, the Tour d'Argent is now run by André Terrail, his grandson.

Reopening in 2023

More than a year after its closure for major renovation, the Tour d'Argent reopen its doors, responding to a double challenge: preserving the richness of its heritage while bringing its practice into the 21st century. Fans can rest assured that they will find all the fundamentals of the restaurant: the sumptuous wine cellar , the duck theatre, the exemplary service in the dining room and the cuisine of Chef Yannick Franques . Since his arrival at the Tour d'Argent in 2019, this Best Worker of France (MOF) reinterprets the great culinary classics with elegance and brio.

Around the Tour d'Argent

You can enjoy the excellence of the Tour d'Argent in three other establishments. At 19 quai de la Tournelle, you will find the Rôtisserie d'Argent a typical Parisian bistro where the dishes are cooked to the rhythm of the spit. At number 13, La Petite Épicerie de la Tour offers exceptional products that highlight the expertise of French artisans. A few metres away, in the rue du Cardinal Lemoine, Le Boulanger de la Tour makes organic breads, pure butter viennoiseries and pastries, such as the famous Tour d'Argent chocolate eclairs.

As soon as this historic Parisian restaurant — the flagship of French culinary arts in the Paris Region — reopens, lovers of good food will be able to enjoy the great classics and the new recipes on the menu.

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LA TOUR D'ARGENT

Undisputed institution of French gastronomy run by the Terrail family for three generations, the Tour d’Argent engaged Franklin Azzi for the renovation of its Michelin-starred restaurant and the refurbishment of the building that houses it. From the redesigned panoramic dining room, the creation of a bar, a terrace, and a suite with its own private dining room, right down to the design of the furniture, Franklin Azzi has designed the entire project. Working as architect, interior architect and designer, he has transformed the Tour d’Argent.

Like a shimmering beacon on the banks of the Seine, the Tour d’Argent shines again. From the shores of the Île Saint Louis, one can now look across the Seine to Quai de la Tournelle and admire the dining room’s glistening ceiling, lined with slats of polished anodized aluminum. Sunlight during the day and integrated lighting at night illuminate an array of metal tiles, sparkling in the light. Sculptural ceilings are a constant in Franklin Azzi’s work. Here it is a poetic gesture as much as a wink to the name, La Tour d’Argent, silver tower, owing its name to a tower in Philippe-Auguste’s 12th-century city walls, built in stone from Champagne flecked with mica, which glitters in the setting sun.

In keeping with the timelessness of this gastronomic institution, Franklin Azzi has revisited the conventions of classical architecture. The layout of the rooms echoes that of a grand townhouse: from the black-and-white-tiled floor of the entrance hall, follows a reception room in light oak paneling, succeeded by a salon arranged around a hearth. Each room responds to a function, moments in life. Franklin Azzi rhythms the spaces, building to a crescendo: from revisited classicism on the ground floor, to resolute modernity for the panoramic dining room. This rise in architectural intensity replies to the perfectly choreographed ballet of service, dynamic and fluid, that has always structured the show at the Tour d’Argent. On the fifth floor is another new space, a suite like a Parisian apartment, with wall mouldings and herringbone parquet flooring, for special customers wishing to stay on site. It features a kitchen that opens onto the sitting–dining room, enabling chef Yannick Franques to prepare dishes on the spot for up to ten guests. With its sauna and Scandinavian-style furnishings, the suite reflects the Finnish heritage of André Terrail, the Tour d’Argent’s current owner.

While wanting to preserve certain heritage pieces, Franklin Azzi has also developed a number of new pieces of furniture. Taking his inspiration from the chairs with woven backrests used in the restaurant in the 1930s, he has designed a seat with a jute rope support made in the Pierre Frey furniture workshops. In the same desire of revisiting traditional objects, he designed a chandelier made of 277 extra-clear glass pendants hooked onto six chromed steel rings. Neon lighting and visible cabling give a modern industrial air to this light in the spirit of Art Deco design.

A project as much architectural as decorative, the renovation of the Tour d’Argent required closing the establishment for a year. A relatively short period given the scale of the works undertaken. No less than seventeen different trades were required on site: steel framer, facade engineer, lead roofer, carpentry workshop, and artist metalworker for the dining-room ceiling. As usual, Franklin Azzi prioritized French companies.

Artistic collaborations Antoine Carbonne, large mural composition painted in situ, « Perle », depicting a fantasized Paris in the Middle Ages. Maximilien Pellet, enameled ceramic works, portrait of the current owner’s grandmother which hangs in the suite, Le souvenir d’Augusta. Margaux Lavêvre, restaurant’s carpet. Julien Raout, lettering painter.

• Franklin Azzi x La Tour d'Argent
• Representative Architects : Franklin Azzi Design, Franklin Azzi Architecture
• Construction Site Architects : AIA Management
• Construction Economists : AE75
• Acoustic Engineer : ACV
• Fluid Mechanics Engineer : SYNAPSE
• Facade engineering : AYO DESIGN
• Structural engineer : AEDIS
• Landscapers : MIMESIS
• Project management | Client : Tour d'Argent
• Project management assistance and consulting : Corelo
• Programme Meeting room, Hotel, Bar, Restaurant, Store
• Command Private
• Status Completed
• Construction type Extension, Requalification, Redevelopment of Spaces
• Floor area : 975 m²
• Location 17 Quai de la Tournelle 75005 Paris France

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La Tour d'Argent finally reopens its doors in Paris

By Jade Simon

In the French capital, there are a handful of legendary addresses, whose existence and prestige we know without even having set foot there.   La Tour d'Argent , nearly five centuries after its creation, is the best example. Founded by a man named Rourteau in 1534, this elegant spot has become over the decades the favorite haunt of lovers of fine dining in Paris.

  La Tour d'Argent in Paris  

La Tour d'Argent in Paris

The restaurant is finally reopening after six months of closure since the French confinement was announced. Situated between Quai de la Tournelle and Rue du Cardinal Lemoine, visitors first walk through an opulent lounge before taking the elevator to the high-perched restaurant. Plunging over the peaceful Seine, the Cathedral of Notre-Dame and the Île Saint-Louis, the incredible view becomes even more spectacular with sunset.

La Tour d'Argent in Paris 

By Calin Van Paris

By Lilah Ramzi

Facing a blazing sky, the welcome is as warm as it is benevolent thanks to the owner André Terrail , a worthy successor of his father and his grandfather. In the kitchen, chef Yannick Franques , Meilleur Ouvrier de France, (trained in particular by Eric Frechon at Le Bristol and Alain Ducasse at Louis XV) reinterprets with great finesse the great classics of French gastronomy. On the menu? Foie gras from the Three Emperors served with warm brioche, a spider crab flavored with lemongrass and coriander with coral butter, a blue lobster roasted in its shell, curry bisque and plump bao bread and even a duckling reunion. A new dish, a duckling accompanies your meal, a tradition since 1890 and is given to the person who eats it. (For the record, the millionth was released and lived peacefully a few meters from the on the banks of the Seine). Endowed with a high level of know-how, the place makes its own bread and its own wine, served together by the team of head sommelier David Ridgway . For dessert, a gargantuan cheese platter and Mademoiselle crêpes flambéed with cognac live for guest entertainment. 

The best part? The restaurant, for the first time in its history, will now be open on Sunday for lunch. 

La Tour d'Agent   17 Quai de la Tournelle, 75005 Paris, Tel.01.43.54.23.31  

More on Vogue.fr

Translated by Constance Caiola

By Gaby Wood

La Tour d'Argent

Paris , france.

"The pillowy quenelle, a pike-perch dumpling native to Lyon and environs and one of my favorite classical French dishes, was simply brilliant in an impeccably deconstructed sauce Nantua (crayfish sauce) that was a richly flavored as it was astonishing light. Ornamented by a little ring of tiny girolles mushrooms, baby peas, and fragile leaves of salad burnet and woodruff, the quenelle was very beautiful, too."

Recommendations

David Lebovitz

"The other starter I’ve liked was the baked pike quenelles, two mousse-like ovals sitting over a bed of duxelles of mushrooms, blanketed in cream sauce. They’re quite delicious…and filling."

Alexander Lobrano

François Simon

"A gastronomy muséified but disarming like these beautiful dumplings in their powdery and silky abstraction."

Elizabeth Auerbach

"Gorgeous quenelles which had a feather-light texture and a lovely intense pike flavour."

The Mighty Rib

"And now, the actual appetizer – a bowl of Pike dumplings or “Quenelles De Brochet” which are served on a bed of mushrooms duxelle and covered in Mornay sauce. I thought they were perfect. Very light and fluffy but extremely rich with that creamy, cheesy Mornay sauce."

Georgie Bailey

"Entrée – quenelle, traditionally Lyonnaise a big fluffy fish dumpling. This one a celebration of pike. Delicate, pretty and not at all fishy this dish is gorgeous."

"These pike dumplings were the highlight of the meal. The quenelles were soft and flavorful, with a rich, thick sauce."

The Snowlady Chronicles

"Anyhow, I loved the pike quenelles, although it was filling. Really, it could have been a main dish."

Antonio Galloni

"For one, I absolutely loved the old rendition of the quenelle de brochet façon André Terrail and wondered what new twists might lead to in revisiting old classics. The new version is undoubtedly lighter and airier, just as good as the old rendition, only different."

Have you eaten at La Tour d'Argent recently?

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Sadaharu Aoki

I ate lunch at one of the oldest restaurants in Paris that's loved by royalty and world leaders, and the Michelin-starred meal transported me back in time

• La Tour d'Argent claims to be the oldest restaurant in Paris, serving diners since 1582.
• The restaurant is a Parisian institution, and was reportedly used as inspiration for " Ratatouille ."
• I ate lunch in its dining room overlooking the Notre Dame and was enchanted by its service.

La Tour d'Argent claims to be the oldest restaurant in Paris, and has been serving diners since 1582.

Translating as "the silver tower," La Tour d'Argent is a Paris fine-dining institution, and has been visited by everyone from King Henry IV, to Queen Elizabeth II , according to Time Out.

With a Michelin star — it previously had three until 1996, as noted on the Tour d'Argent website — the restaurant remains one of Paris' most revered destinations, steeped in history and tradition. 

However, its Michelin Guide demotion prompted the restaurant to announce its largest-ever renovations earlier this year, aiming to "bring the restaurant into the 21st century," according to the website.

Ahead of its nine-month closure in May, I went to eat lunch in its historic dining room.

The restaurant is located near the center of Paris, in the city's 5th Arrondissement.

The building sits just beside the Seine river, and is about a 20-minute walk from major central train stations Gare de Lyon and Chatelet Les Halles.

The restaurant is so iconic, it was reportedly used as inspiration for the Pixar classic "Ratatouille."

As the restaurant has been operating for so long without changing its classic ways, elements of it were used by the movie studio to help craft the image of the fictional restaurant "Gusteau's" , according to Lonely Planet.

When I first stepped inside the downstairs waiting area, it was like immediately being transported back a few centuries.

From the preserved wooden paneling to the old cushioned furniture, it was clear from the start that this place was not going to be similar to any dining experience I've ever had.

While I've had the fortune of eating at a few fine-dining restaurants with Michelin stars, none of their interiors felt as traditional or classic as this.

From the downstairs area, we were escorted through a hallway toward a private elevator to the dining room on the sixth floor.

The doorman and staff were quick to show us through the narrow hallway toward the elevator that would take us up to the dining room.

However, it very was easy to get distracted and slowed down by the decorations on the wall.

The walls leading up to the private elevator are lined with portraits and pictures of famous diners, including Queen Elizabeth II.

Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Phillip visited the restaurant in 1948 as their first official trip outside the Commonwealth after marrying a few months prior, according to writer and historian Lauren Kiehna's blog, the Court Jeweller.

Other notable former patrons include US presidents and world leaders.

Alongside Her Majesty, US presidents John F. Kennedy and Richard Nixon could be spotted in photographs, as well as former USSR and Russian leaders Mikhail Gorbachev and Boris Yeltsin.

After taking the elevator to the sixth floor, I was immediately taken aback by the spectacular dining room.

The floor and tables were all incredibly detailed, enhanced by the floor-to-ceiling windows that fill the room with natural light.

Everywhere you looked, blue and gold dominated the room, with tiny detailing on every surface.

I was surprised by the unimpeded views over Paris, including Notre Dame, which remains under reconstruction.

Having been owned by the same family since 1911, the restaurant's dining room was moved up to the sixth floor to maximize its views over Paris in 1936 , according to Condé Nast Traveler. 

The sixth-floor room gives unparalleled views over the city and Notre Dame.

However, due to the fire that destroyed much of the cathedral , it remains mostly covered by scaffolding while they repair the building. This is on track for completion in 2024 , according to The New York Times.

At the table, we were first greeted with a huge silver plate, engraved with the restaurant's name.

While impressive, it was shortly removed after we sat down, and was clearly just there to be decorative.

The menu items were the epitome of traditional French haute cuisine, or "high cooking," but mine didn't have any prices listed.

Our menu was very traditional, including dishes like quenelles — a technique of creating perfect three-sided ovals — as well as hake and snails for starters. Mains included scallops or guinea fowl. 

It felt a little stereotypical to order snails in France, so I chose the hake. 

But since I didn't make the reservation, my menu didn't include a price. This was a deliberate decision implemented by the owner centuries ago, according to our waiter, due to social traditions at the time.

Our three-course set lunch menu was 105 euros at the time of visiting, or around $115. A six-course menu is also available for triple the price, as well as a la carte options with mains ranging from 95 euros to 125 euros each, or $100 to $130.  

While the food menu isn't extensive, the wine list is the opposite, weighing over 15 pounds, with over 320,000 bottles to choose from.

The restaurant prides itself on its selection of wines, claiming to have one of "the most technically perfect cellars" in Paris, as noted on the Tour d'Argent website. 

The cellar is so prestigious and valuable, that while under German occupation during World War II, the owner flew across France for one night to brick up the entrance to protect its contents before flying back , according to Bonjour Paris.

The silver tower logo of the restaurant was on everything. It was even stamped on the butter.

It's clear that the restaurant is very detail-oriented, as I struggled to find an item on the table that wasn't personalized with the logo and founding date.

Once we ordered the wine, it arrived with its own trolley and basket.

Every element of service felt well-considered, with the smallest of touches helping to make the hospitality here extraordinary.

The wine basket is used for transportation up the dumb waiter from the cellar, where a worker located the bottle among the hundreds of thousands of bottles stored.

Each dish that arrived was a clear display of French fine-dining techniques.

From the hake to the scallops, and chocolate souffle to finish, all dishes were made by chefs who were very technically proficient, with each dish beautifully presented, utilizing advanced techniques rarely seen outside of fine dining.

But despite all that, we weren't blown away by our meal.

On top of the decor, the dishes felt as though they'd also remained untouched since 1936. While that's often one of the key drawing points for visitors, I've eaten far more interesting meals for less money, such as wildly creative 20-course tasting menus that include Wagyu beef fat fudge.

However, I've never eaten anywhere with this level of high-quality service.

After lunch, a quick visit to the restaurant's attached bakery and deli was the perfect final touch.

The separate bakery on the opposite corner of the building was only opened in 2016.

From the adjacent location, customers can now buy the bread used in the restaurant as well as a range of viennoiseries — leavened pastries such as croissants and pain au chocolat — according to the Tour d'Argent website.

You can also buy a range of items such as preserves and wines under the Tour d'Argent name.

Browsing the shop after our meal was a perfect way to end the experience, and further demonstrated the attention and care the restaurant gives to its branding.

It's clear from our trip that the restaurant aims to provide a whole experience for its diners, as opposed to just providing a good meal.

Particularly in an age where service in fine dining restaurants seems to be becoming increasingly casual — which isn't a bad thing, in my opinion — this lunch was certainly a memorable one.

Despite service at the restaurant being faultless, I can see why they feel the need to modernize.

My experience at La Tour d'Argent was one I'll never forget. I really enjoyed my time here as it gave me an insight into luxury I wouldn't be able to experience elsewhere.

As the restaurant closes to modernize itself and its menu, I can understand why. While I really enjoyed my lunch, the restaurant's devotion to upholding the past also seemed to limit the menu. 

It will be interesting to see how the restaurant plans to change while preserving itself, but I'm glad I came here when I did to get a once-in-a-lifetime taste of classic French luxury.

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Since 2003, when André Terrail took over the legendary Tour d’Argent (created in 1582) from his late father Claude Terrail, he’s made a number of additions: the brasserie, La Rôtisserie d’Argent; the bakery, Le Boulanger de la Tour; the grocery, La Petite Epicérie de la Tour; and a luxurious Tokyo outpost .

Though the restaurant is closed for big renovations until March 2nd, 2023, a number of experiences are taking place outside the centuries-old walls during “ La Tour En Balade ” with Executive Chef Yannick Franques: On the River Seine for a dinner cruise, in the cellars of Champagne House Maison Ruinart, at La Maison Camus at Château Lafite Rothschild, Cap Estel, and in Japan with the four-hand gastronomic event at La Tour d’Argent, Tokyo.

A graduate of Babson College, USA and INSEAD, France, André Terrail has traveled the world. But Paris, he says, is where he belongs. For BP he explains why… while also sharing some superb Paris addresses.

André Terrail’s late father Claude Terrail

Where were you born?

The American Hospital, Neuilly on July 20th, 1980. My father Claude Terrail was French, my mother Tarja from Finland.

Who would you like to share an “I Love Paris” cocktail with?

Ernest Hemingway . Although I’m sure there would be more than one cocktail!

A local personality past or present you admire?

General Charles de Gaulle, president of France from 1959-1969 . What he did for France, and the world, was extraordinary. “One day, aboard the steamer Caledonien  sailing from the French Antilles to Tahiti, the general offered his companions a rare glimpse into his past: “When we were children,” he reminisced, “we often played war. We had a fine collection of lead soldiers. My brothers would take different countries: Xavier had Italy: Pierre, Germany. Or they would swap around. Well, I, gentlemen, always had France!”

General Charles de Gaulle

Your favorite Paris quartier?

The Latin Quarter , of course, where I live! It has it all: jazz clubs, unique boutiques, excellent bars and restaurants. And, I find it incorporates the perfect vibe between students (La Sorbonne), tourists (The Panthéon), locals (Jardin des Plantes) – an exciting multicultural mix.

Favorite building?

Notre-Dame de Paris

Favorite month?

September. The weather’s good. Everyone’s happy and tanned post holidays, new restaurants are opening, new exhibitions. It’s La Rentrée- a new beginning, and not long until Christmas!

You can’t live without?

My precious, black Mont Blanc Pen .

Notre-Dame © ArtHouse Studio at Pexels

Favorite Paris lunch spot? 

Alliance , on rue de Poissy, the collaboration of two talented, memorable men: Toshitaka Omiya and Shawn Joyeux who bonded at Agapé, Laurent Lapaire’s remarkable restaurant in the 17th arrondissement. Sharing a passion for all things culinary, the two men decided to join forces and create their own address.

Best address for coffee/glass of wine in Paris?

I kick back at  Bonvivant,  Pierre Mouquet’s vibrant bistro du quartier /neighborhood wine bar. It’s always open, always welcoming, serving interesting and mostly biodynamic and natural wines. The food is an excellent value. Bonvivant is open every day and late into the night for well prepared cuisine from breakfast and lunch to cocktails and post-midnight munchies.

  View this post on Instagram   A post shared by • Bonvivant • (@bonvivantparis)

Where do you shop for clothes?

Le Bon Marché.

And groceries?

I absolutely adore Alessandre Pierini’s Italian deli “ RAP Epicerie ” (4, rue Flechier) and the incredible wine cave (with tastings) at 61, rue du Faubourg Montmartre in the 9th arrondissement. It’s the essence of oeno-gastronomy, Italian style.

The most fun thing to do in Paris?

I love running along the Quais du Seine, on the left or right bank. I’ve discovered the nearer one gets to Bercy the less people there are! With its vineyard and old railway line, the perfect place to unwind is Parc de Bercy, located along the Rive Droite in the 12th arrondissement. This development began in 1994 on the site of a former wine depot.

Alessandre Pierini’s Italian deli RAP Epicerie © Lisa Klein Michel

A secret “touristy” spot you admire?

Le Square Vert Galant erected in tribute to Henri IV and his numerous mistresses, the Square obtained the “Espace Vert Ecologique” (ecological green space) label in 2007. And with good reason. There’s impressive fauna and flora, considering its location in the center of the capital. You can take little boat trips or just sit and take in the wonderful views of the Seine, the Musée du Louvre and the Hôtel de la Monnaie.

The best Paris “life lesson” you’ve learned?

Be kind. I learned that from my father.

Three words to live by?

Fun – Work – Friends

If you became mayor, something you’d change in Paris?

I would create a Ministry of Tourism to promote our gastronomy, wine culture, museums, artisans, fashion etc. That’s what we really need.

Something you wish Parisians would stop moaning about?

That waiters are rude and moody – nobody’s perfect, but they do get a hard time and it’s not always justified.

One object every Parisian should own?

A Navigo pass. I don’t use it often but always keep one on me. I was at Roland Garros and it was impossible to get any sort of taxi – out came the Navigo!

Favorite Book?

Sur Les Chemin Noir/On The Black Trails by Sylvain Tesson the writer and extreme adventurer. Tesson’s inspirational walking itinerary, following a horrific accident, traces his diagonal journey, from southeast France to the northwest, from Mercantour to the Cotentin. He chose forgotten paths, “Les Chemins Noirs,” in reference to the title of René Frégni’s novel. I think it’s been made into a film, starring Jean Dujardin.

  View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Sylvain Tesson (@sylvain.tesson)

Favorite Film?

Well I think I’ve watched The Hunt for Red October about 15 times!

Annual Event you look forward to with impatience?

The Claude Terrail Polo Cup at The Polo de Bagatelle Paris. My father, the true meaning of a bon vivant, not only headed the Tour d’Argent, but was also a formidable polo player, captain of the famous Maillets d’Argents team. His motto was “inviting someone means to take responsibility for his happiness for all the time that he is under your roof”, although he loved to be out in the open air, playing polo. In 2004, two years before his death, he set up la Coupe Claude Terrail (Claude Terrail Cup) at the Polo de Bagatelle that my mother and I host in his memory.

Favorite place to take visitors?

Paris is blessed with the finest museums in the world. For me, it’s the Musée d’Orsay , and entry is free on the first Sunday of each month!

Lead photo credit : Portrait of Andre Terrail © Pierre Emmanuel

More in Interview with André Terrail , La Rôtisserie d'Argent : the bakery , La Tour d'Argent Interview

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Interview: David Ridgway, La Tour d’Argent

Words by Barnaby Eales

Photography by Thomas Renaut

David Ridgway, head sommelier and wine buyer at La Tour d’Argent in Paris, has spent more than 35 years transforming the legendary restaurant’s cellar into a veritable library of the finest French wines.

Home to 300,000 bottles, the cellar includes up to 40 vintages of the greatest wines of France. Prices range from €60 for entry-level wines to €20,000 for wines like 1990 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and 1982 Pétrus. The rarest and most expensive wines, held on the cellar’s first floor, are protected by wrought iron gates and walls reinforced with battleship-grade steel.

The cellar temperature is controlled to within half a degree: 13 ° C in summer and 11.5 ° C in winter, allowing wines to mature at the optimal rate, and providing Ridgway (whose office is in the centre of the cellar) with the cool head he needs for making decisions on his annual wine buying budget of €1m.

You once described La Tour d’Argent’s cellar as a paradise of wine, saying you would never wish to work elsewhere. What have you enjoyed most about your 38 years there?

There is the beauty of tasting the finest wines on earth, of tasting the wines that you have laid down for 15 or 20 years. I have tasted the last 40 vintages of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti . They imbue you with a unique feeling of wellbeing; they transport you to a higher plain. At vineyards in Burgundy and elsewhere, I have developed relationships with three generations of vintners.

Earning the respect of customers and winemakers is very rewarding, as is the constant sharing of opinions with chefs at the restaurant. This combination, together with the exceptional view of the Seine and Notre Dame, has created a unique atmosphere at La Tour d’Argent.

You expanded La Tour d’Argent’s wine list from 100 pages with 1,000 wines in 1981, to today’s 400 pages with 15,000 wines. How have buying decisions changed of late?

I like to spend money. It is always been a bit of a problem, discussing budgets with the accountants and the restaurant owner, but now we are buying less as customers are drinking less. In Paris, we sell a maximum of 15,000 bottles a year in the restaurant, which, on average, represents close to a quarter of a bottle per person per meal. 75% of reservations are now for two people, many of whom order wine by the glass.

Customers now have a tendency to drink younger wines. We buy up to five or ten cases directly from about 40 to 50 producers. Buying wine on allocation from producers now means that if you don’t buy one year, the wines may not be available to buy the following year. The very high prices of the most recent Burgundy and Bordeaux vintages make buying them more difficult, but you can still find a Bruno Clair for €180 a bottle, for example, which shows how some red Burgundy can be relatively cheap, considering its rareness and quality.

What are customers at La Tour d’Argent drinking?

We are selling more red Burgundy than ever, but less white Burgundy. In the restaurant, most people ask for Burgundy, the Rhône and the Loire Valley.

Which celebrities or heads of state have you served there?

Mick Jagger, Prince, Robert De Niro and Dustin Hoffman, to name but a few. Woody Allen has a keen interest and knowledge in wine; his taste has evolved from Bordeaux to Burgundy over time. Elton John, who ordered a bottle of Louis Roederer’s Cristal , was extremely charming. In just one week, we had a visit from Bill Clinton, who drank a 1988 Château Margaux, and from Boris Yeltsin, who drank a 1990 Chambertin Clos de Beze. Of the two, Yeltsin drank the most.

In just one week, we had a visit from Bill Clinton and from Boris Yeltsin. Of the two, Yeltsin drank the most

Some French sommeliers complain that restaurants in Paris mark up wine by as much as five or six times the buying price…

Managing prices is a difficult daily task. We try to keep prices down, but it’s hard to explain why we are selling wine cheaper than they could be sold at auction. Some customers ask to buy a case of wine to take home with them, but I know it’s not to drink themselves – it’s to sell them on at higher prices.

I gather there was an accident with an 1811 Chateau Lafite Rothschild, which was once the oldest wine in La Tour d’Argent cellar. What happened?

A cellar assistant was up a stepladder and knocked the bottle to the ground, smashing it. He didn’t  have to pay for the wine, but I had great difficulty explaining the damage to Claude Terrail [Tour d’Argent’s then owner]. The 1811 vintage from the Year of the Great Comet was known to be a wine of exceptional quality. I daren’t think what it was worth [so-called Comet Vintages occur after comets are seen and in winemaking lore are reckoned always to be exceptional: 1811 is one of the most legendary. In 2007 a bottle of 1811 Lafite fetched €36,000 at Christie’s Los Angeles].

You joined La Tour d’Argent in 1981 after moving to France from Britain .  The management initially kept it quiet that you were British. Having now lived in France longer than in Britain, do you feel more French or British?

Until now, I never really wanted to obtain French nationality. There was no need. But now [with Brexit] I am dying to do so, but it has become a very lengthy process because so many people are applying for French nationality.

The word is that you are about to retire. Is this true?

I no longer do the restaurant service – I am rather bored of people spending the whole evening on their smartphones rather than talking to each other – however, there is no date set for my retirement.

If you had to choose five favourite wines and their vintages what would they be?

The pleasure of wine lies in its diversity. Choosing wines depends on what you are eating, your mood, where you are, how you feel and the atmosphere. If I had to, I would choose reds or whites from my go-to region, such as the 1985 vintage Côte de Beaune in Burgundy. Any Champagne from the Grand Cru villages of Chouilly and Cramant, aged 10 years in the bottle, would be marvellous. As Claude Terrail always said: ‘There is no party without Champagne.’

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3 Compelling Reasons to Return to La Tour d’Argent

Closed since spring 2022 for extensive renovations, the legendary Michelin-starred restaurant La Tour d’Argent is once again welcoming Parisian gourmets who cherish tradition. Everything has been completely revamped with exciting new features. While the panoramic view remains as stunning as ever (along with Chef Yannick Franques' signature dishes, of course), let us tell you about the budget-friendly options that have tempted us to return without breaking the bank.

A Brand-New Bar

On the ground floor, La Tour d’Argent unveils the brand-new Bar des Maillets d’Argent , which is now an essential part of the new experience. Joyfully, in this comfortably furnished setting with ochre sofas, a fireplace, and a library, you can now sit down for a very chic breakfast starting from 9 AM. The great deal? The €19 menu includes a hot beverage, freshly squeezed juice, and pastries or toast straight from the Boulanger de la Tour (right across the street and among the best in Paris).

Prefer the aperitif team? After work, settle in at the bar for a toast with a well-shaken cocktail like the Chukker (apricot, verjus, white vermouth... €28) or the Pink Mademoiselle with calvados infused with lemon verbena, in addition to classic options available upon request.

Psst: A true all-day hangout, the Bar des Maillets d’Argent also offers daily lunch specials (veal blanquette, pike quenelle... €39) and snack options with tempting pastries (whipped cream tart, fruit charlotte…).

Passion for the Rooftop

The Roof of the Tour was previously unused. Now, secured and greened, you can enjoy an extraordinary 360° view of the Seine , Notre-Dame de Paris , and the Île Saint-Louis : the ideal spot for a romantic drink for two. On the menu, you'll have a tough choice between a glass of Chablis (€30) or Menetou-Salon (€20), unless you opt for a glass of La Tour d’Argent champagne (€28), to be paired with an incredible terrine and bakery bread (€42) or a selection of cheeses (€22).

The Bar des Maillets d’Argent is open daily from 9 AM to midnight.

The Roof of the Tour is open from Monday to Friday from 6:30 PM to midnight and from noon on weekends. Reservation on tourdargent.com

© Matthieu Salvaing Also, discover where to have breakfast in Paris and three new festive dining spots in Paris .

Clémence Renoux

Where to find it?

La tour d'argent.

15, quai de la Tournelle

75005 Paris

tourdargent.com

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Category : La Tour d'Argent

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Plongez à la découverte de cette maison, quatre fois centenaire ! De notre riche héritage naît l’histoire d’aujourd’hui, vibrante et résolument contemporaine… Quatre lieux d’exception ayant pour ambition de vous divertir et de vous enchanter, quelle que soit l’heure du jour ou de la nuit.

Le monde de la Tour d’Argent

Le Glacier de la Tour est de re-tour !

Cet été, le triporteur du boulanger de la tour retrouve sa place quai de la tournelle, devant le boulanger de la tour. parisiens et vacanciers en balade le long de la seine peuvent désormais se régaler d’une délicieuse boule de glace. toujours soucieux de s’entourer de la crème de la crème des artisans français, le boulanger de la tour a fait appel au meilleur ouvrier de france glacier, david wesmaël, fondateur de la glacerie. .

Raffinement & art de recevoir à la française

Notre service en salle orchestré avec élégance et expertise par stéphane trapier, directeur de la restauration, est à la fois rythmé par les découpes et flambages, qui contribuent depuis toujours à l’atmosphère unique du restaurant, mais également par le ballet des maîtres d’hôtel en queue-de-pie. ceux-ci, par leur savoir-faire et l’excellence de leurs gestes, offrent à nos convives des instants précieux et continuent d’incarner le raffinement et l’art de recevoir à la française..

Le caneton au fil du temps !

Découvrez la dernière création de notre chef yannick franques, le « caneton au fil du temps ». un suprême de canard rôti de la maison burgaud, délicatement parfumé aux amandes fumées, accompagné d’un caviar d’aubergines au yaourt grec, d’une cuisse confite en pastilla façon stifado, le tout sublimé par un jus à la mélasse de corinthe. prêt à vous laisser séduire par cette composition saisonnière .

Nouvelle recette du Chef !

Découvrez la nouvelle recette de saison de notre chef yannick franques : un médaillon de lotte rôti, accompagnée d’une morille farcie, et d’un mijoté de petits pois et févettes au vermouth, le tout sublimé par un savoureux sabayon au citron noir.

Le Toit de la Tour ouvre !

A partir du 29 avril, la tour d'argent ouvre le toit de la tour pour la saison estivale..