trek 820 seatpost size

Reports of the demise of this Web site are greatly exaggerated! We at sheldonbrown.com thank Harris Cyclery for its support over the years. Harris Cyclery has closed, but we keep going. Keep visiting the site for new and updated articles, and news about possible new affilations.

This page is a continuation of https://www.sheldonbrown.com/seatpost-sizes.html , a listing of various bicycles, and the seatpost diameters that fit them.

Sheldon brown started compiling a list, and realizing that it was too large a project for one person, he solicited information from readers. john allen and harriet fell have received more reader-provided information but we will no longer update this file, except to correct errors. we recommend measuring, both because it is more reliable and because we can't possibly have information on every make and model of bicycle. so this article also describes how to take measurements, even if you don't have the "right" tools..

The size is usually stamped on the seatpost near the bottom. It will be near the minimum-insertion mark, not visible when the seatpost is installed on a bicycle.

On a related topic, we have an article (by Sheldon Brown, updated by John Allen) on Stuck Seatposts which may be of use to you.

This page is a continuation of https://www.sheldonbrown.com/seatpost-sizes.html .

Sheldon was previously listing people who had contributed data points to this list, but doing so more than doubles the time it takes to enter data, so he stopped doing it, and we hope everybody will forgive us for discontinuing this..

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2017 Trek 820

A 26″ steel frame hardtail crosscountry bike with mid-range components and rim brakes. Compare the full range

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How To Measure Seatpost Diameter: Seatpost Size Chart

There are a lot of things to think about when you want to buy a new seatpost . But how do you know how to measure the diameter of the post?

A good post makes your ride more comfortable and can make your bike faster. The seatpost is one of the most important bike parts . Installing an incorrect size can damage your frame, and it can also cause back pain.

But you don’t need to worry about this – we have written a step-by-step guide that will show you how to measure your seatpost so that it fits on your bike!

What Is the Ideal Seat Post Size?

You can check your existing or previous saddle post to figure out the seat post size. This is the simplest method to measure the size of your dropper. It may appear obvious, but it’s worth noting that you can determine the diameter of a seat post by looking at your current or old saddle post.

If you don’t know the length of your current seatpost, you should remove it and measure it. The most popular sizes are generally stamped, or laser etched near the end of the insertion line.

Because of age and friction, the marking may be rubbed away. So, how do you figure out how big your dropper is? This is when we get hands-on and take measurements. You can measure the size of the post with a digital caliper and metric calipers to see if the present seatpost’s diameter is correct.

If you have an old saddle-post that is securely fastened, measure its outer diameter for an accurate idea of what you’ll need to purchase. However, suppose the old seat-post is worn down, and you cannot make reasonable predictions from it. In that case, you must proceed to the next step, where we will show you how to measure the seat tube diameter.

Standard seatpost diameters

Seatpost diameters are usually a multiple of 0.2mm, but not always. If you measure something close to a number that is not a multiple of 0.2, the next higher size will most likely fit. For example, if you measure 25.5mm wide seatpost and find out that the next size is 27mm, it will most likely fit.

The right post is the one that slides in without being forced (other than by hand) and does so freely. The seatpost is likely too narrow if it drops in with play before the pinch bolt is tightened.

Table 2 summarizes the most popular seatpost diameters utilized on modern bicycles (from the mid-nineteenth century to now).

How to Measure Seat Tube Diameter: The Right Method

The seat tube is a structure that supports the seatpost. To put it another way, it’s where you attach the seat post. When measuring the seat tube, make sure to measure the inner diameter of the area where the seat post will be inserted. Do not measure the external diameter since this does not contribute to determining the size of the seatpost.

The diameter of the seat tube is measured using a  Vernier caliper . When measuring both external and internal elements, a Vernier caliper is extremely accurate. You may get digital readouts for calipers that you can switch between metric and inch at the press of a button.

External or Internal Routing

Internal or external cable routing of the seat-posts is a matter of personal preference. Internal cabling (also known as stealth) is the most popular type of mountain bike wiring. Internal cable routing connects the seatpost to the remote control at the shaft of the post. On the other hand, external cable routing entails routing cables on the outside of the seat tube, usually on top.

The size you get from your post will be determined by the routing of the cable. I recommend going for a seat post with the wire routed to the shaft rather than the head. This makes it less vulnerable to damage and looks great aesthetically.

Length of the Dropper

The length of the dropper is the next major aspect to consider when selecting a seat post. When the post is fully extended, the length of the dropper is always measured.

The comfort and efficiency of your ride will depend on the amount of “drop” you require. The vast majority of bikes come with a limit of 100 to 150 mm. It’s good to get as much travel as possible. This implies that you have complete control over your seat’s position and can decrease it for added comfort and fun.

Maximum Extension

To measure the seat post correctly, first figure out how high you want your seat to be when fully extended. To do so, measure the collar to the center of the seat rail. You don’t want a post to be too long because it might reduce power transmission and efficiency while cycling.

Minimum Insertion

What is the maximum depth you can put your seatpost into the frame? You may measure from the top of the saddle collar down to where you believe there is no more room. It’s critical to understand how deep it goes because it’ll keep you from focusing on extension numbers that might deceive you and make it difficult to lower your post.

Overall Length

When determining the dropper’s size, keep in mind that the overall length is crucial. Seatposts come in different lengths, so be sure you get one that suits your needs. A short post might be uncomfortable and ergonomically incorrect. The most common Seatpost length ranges between 75 millimeters and 400 millimeters.

The shortest seatpost are sometimes lightweight , but they are less adjustable. Longer seatposts are more flexible. Most mountain bikes feature longer seatposts that make it easier to change them for uphill and downhill surfaces, making them secure and allowing you to avoid harm.

To find the size of your seat post, you can use a rod. You put the rod inside the tube and match it to the diameter. The rods are different sizes, so you can stop when you meet one that fits. The correct reading is at the end of the tube.

What is Raleigh’s seatpost size?

Raleigh seatposts are usually made of aluminum, which is lightweight and strong. Raleigh seatposts come in different diameters. The standard diameter for the Raleigh seatpost is 27.2 millimeters.

Are all seat posts the same size?

No, seat posts vary in size and how much they can be dropped. The seat post diameter is not always how much it can be dropped and how long it is. You need to measure how deep the seat post goes down and how far down the seat post extends.

Seatpost diameters vary from 22 to 35 millimeters in 0.2 mm steps. The most popular size is 27.2 mm (1.07 inches), used on most bikes, especially high-quality versions. Larger diameters such as 30.9 mm are utilized in some modern bicycles with thicker aluminum or carbon tubing for strength.

Can I put a longer seatpost on my bike?

Sometimes you can. I installed a longer seat post on my mountain bike, but it did require some modifications to the bicycle frame. If you aren’t comfortable with doing this, make sure to get a seat post of appropriate length which will allow you to change how high your seat is positioned for comfort and efficiency.

What is a layback seatpost?

A layback seatpost is a type of bicycle part designed to replace the traditional howitzer-style seatpost. It is similar to howitzer posts, but it features a layback design, which means that the rider sits back on the bike instead of sitting upright. Layback seats are usually found on mountain bikes. They are most familiar with 26″ frames because this size is noticeably shorter than 29″ or 27.5″ bicycles.

What is trek bike seatpost size?

Trek bike seatposts come in two different sizes: 27.2mm x 300mm x 40mm and 31.6mm x 350mm x 40mm. The 27.2 mm seatpost is the most common size and is typically found on high-quality bicycles.

Are suspension seatposts any good?

Suspension seatposts can help you be more comfortable on your bike. They smooth out rough and bumpy roads and can even help prevent back injuries . Many contraptions have been created to help people be more comfortable on their bikes. Still, many of them were not as popular as suspension seatposts.

Final Words

The seatpost is one of the most overlooked bike components. Choosing the incorrect size not only damages the frame but can also lead to back pain.

We have prepared this how-to guide that will show you how to find out how deep it goes so you keep from focusing on extension numbers that might deceive you and make it difficult to lower your post.

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Plan restoring of Trek 820

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• seat post is Cromo 26mm. I removed it with penetrating oil and lubed it with assembly paste. so should be OK
• Handle bar is threaded and seems to be 22.2 mm so, I hope modern MTB controls work
• tires hold air
• Rear spacing is 133mm (135mm if i ush with my finger). But please verify i measured correctly since the rearhub is listed as 125mm . Maybe they have different versions
• Bearings ar crunchy, but look OK.
• BB is not sealed (haven't opened it yet). I have to see if it requires special tool...
• Rear hub actually is a cassette hub. this is great, however, HG driver seems too short for 11-speed cassette i tried on (I have an 11-speed SLX drivetrain I could use). See the picture with my fingers on the 11-speed cassette and how the lockring wouldn't fit. Also see my driver measurement pic.
• frame has no RD hanger. Can this even use an SLX 7000 RD? what are options in case the original one can't be restored?

Solid, basic bike. It will never be more, and it cannot be less. Thus, upgrading to 11 speed is an utter waste (kids don't notice gear count, just, the fun of riding), and putting any component on it that isn't used already, or has a retail price of more than $20/30, is pointless, especially for a kids bike destined to see short use. Keep it running for as little money as possible, should be the ethos, and even the game. Hit up a bike shop for used, plastic, take off pedals. Buy a $25, 7 speed cassette for it while you're there. Going to 8 or more requires a new wheel, which is an utter waste if that one is true and rolls. The money you save, will allow you to bank it for a better bike once they become a teen, growth slows a little, and they might actually take that one into early adulthood.  

I'd clean it, put slightly wider budget bars on it, better pedals (something like DMR V6s or Chester Rides) and new grips (and let her pick the colors of the pedals and grips), new cables if it needs them, and maybe a rack or a basket if you stumble into one cheap at a thrift store or craigslist. Then see how much it actually gets ridden before dropping more into it.  

TimTucker said: I've been there and went through the process of fixing up an old Trek 830. Also had issues with the shifting, so I decided to upgrade to 1x. That required a used wheelset off FB to fit an 8 speed cassette, a narrow wide ring from USA Made to work with the cranks, and Microshift Acolyte derailleur + shifter + cassette. The brake levers on mine were integrated with the shifters, so that also meant new levers. While I was replacing the levers, I also replaced the brakes with newer v-brakes. Along the way it got a lot of other upgrades... If I was doing it over, I'd consider starting off with something like this if she's at least 5' ($300 after 15% off coupon DONTGO15): 29" ABLE Bike Co. CORE It's Saturday morning, and you're ready to hit the local trails. With its size specific lightweight aluminum frame, powerful and easy to control disc brakes, and suspension fork to smooth out the bumps the RBL CORE is ready too. With easy-to-ride modern geometry and great stand over clearance... kent.bike Click to expand...

Sidney Porter said: If you are looking for ideas. This past winter I built a trek 800 for my son. I think this is a 96 or 97, yours looks older based upon the graphics. It's his gravel / neighborhood bike (he also has a MTB for trails and a road bike). We went drop bar conversion. With co-op and parts bin we are less than 200. 3x8 with micro shift brifters. one issue is the front derailleur will not shift to the largest chainring, we have a road derailleur which should fix this. Travel agents for the brakes to work with the different pull We went in this direction because I knew if I built it as a MTB it would not get ridden. He has has a modern MTB (plus a road bike). You mentioned that you have other modern bikes, I assume she also has others. You need to make this interesting enough to make it fun. This bike probably gets the most frequent usage, although they are shorter rides to his friends, pool etc. Click to expand...

MendonCycleSmith said: Solid, basic bike. It will never be more, and it cannot be less. Thus, upgrading to 11 speed is an utter waste (kids don't notice gear count, just, the fun of riding), and putting any component on it that isn't used already, or has a retail price of more than $20/30, is pointless, especially for a kids bike destined to see short use. Keep it running for as little money as possible, should be the ethos, and even the game. Hit up a bike shop for used, plastic, take off pedals. Buy a $25, 7 speed cassette for it while you're there. Going to 8 or more requires a new wheel, which is an utter waste if that one is true and rolls. The money you save, will allow you to bank it for a better bike once they become a teen, growth slows a little, and they might actually take that one into early adulthood. Click to expand...

• FD only goes into granny and middle ring (this actually may not matter, as she comes from 1x7)
• RD shifter does not work. I pull on cable, and no ratcheting works. I read an 8-speed shifter could work (obviously the stop screws need to limit the RD to not go into spokes). Is that universally true? 8-speed shifters may be more readily available and useful for later.
• The BB seems to have cup-cone. I read this can be converted to cartridge BB, or even external bearing. Is that true and can I verify before? I just want to know options before i open that thing.
• I read canti break mounting points are the very same as V-brake. I realize V-brake requires new levers. Is that universally true?
• With that RD hanger (or lack thereof), what limits for RD will i have? Is this what they call direct-mount? OR is it basically like a regular hanger?

I'd make it run and fit well and not replace anything that doesn't need replacing. Looks like you need a bottom bracket. Measure the length of the spindle and order a Shimano UN-BB300 ($15-$20) the same length. You'll probably also need a pair of crank fixing bolts. To get the fixed cup off the frame, do you have a bench vise at home? If so, clamp the fixed cup, and turn the frame (left-handed thread!) to get it off. There are right-side Shimano 7-speed brake/shift levers on ebay for about $15 (ST-EF500). That takes care of your broken shifter. It looks like the brake lever likely has adjustable pull because it says it can work with both cantilever and linear pull brakes. Keep in mind that your existing levers are combined brake and shift, and don't have separate mounting clamps to the handlebars. You can change that, but if you get new brake levers that aren't combined brake/shift, you'd need new shifters too, so getting that $15 7-speed brake/shift lever helps keep things budget. Replace the brake and shift cables and cable housings (unless the ones on there already feel nice and slick - unlikely). I wouldn't bother trying to convert to full-length housings. Make sure to do the job well, file down the cable housing ends so they are smooth/flat and square, have the runs smooth but not too long, etc. Measure the old chain with a ruler. When new, the pins are exactly 1/2" apart. Look at pins 12" apart. It shouldn't have worn longer to more than 12-1/8". If so, replace both the chain and cassette (a new chain on an old cassette skips). The front chainrings look like they are probably fine (steel?). There are cheap 7-speed Shimano cassettes on ebay. The reason your 11-speed cassette doesn't fit is because Shimano freehub bodies became longer between 7-speed and 8-speed and up. There is no point doing a freehub swap since you want to keep it low budget. I'd keep the cantilevers unless they prove to be bad with new cables and correct adjustment. Maybe put on a set of new pads (Koolstops are good). I dislike the variable mechanical advantage of Servo Wave levers (about to ditch the left on my bike to match the DiaCompe on my right) - it's less predictable in use. For a kid's bike, it also has a greater risk that she won't know to tell you that the levers are pulling to the bars after some pad wear. Maybe throw on a V-brake on the front if you aren't happy with the cantis after actually riding them. Existing pedals should be fine. But DMR V6s are cheap ($15-20) and good (as long as they aren't getting rock strikes to knock the plastic pins off). I'd put on some new grips and a wider handlebar. (Look on ebay for 25.4 handlebars.) Do an internet search for to see if there is a bike co-op where you live. If so, would be a great place to work on an old bike. They would have tools that you can use for cheap, and lots of old usable parts for cheap. It's nice especially for trying out different old stem lengths and bars.  

29" ABLE Bike Co. CORE

Unless it's had some aftermarket welding done to it, the bar and stem are seperate. The ends of the bar are 22mm, so modern grips and controls will fit, but the clamping area is 25.4mm. Since she's 12 she might be comfy on 560mm wide bars. But if she's not there are fine ones for <$20. Why do you care about the type of bb? As long as it goes around smoothly there's no need to replace it. Yes, v-brakes need different levers from cantis.  

• BB is super simple, just a straight bsa BB. Easy to swap in a cheap sealed cartridge BB like a shimano un-55. External bearing BBs would work too, but only really apply if you wanted to switch to something that uses a gxp or shimano 24mm spindle.
• v-brakes will work on the mounts but have a different lever pull ratio - some levers have adjustments to sort of work with both, but canti levers are short pull so you might not get enough movement to lock things up with v brakes
• The built in derailleur hanger on the frame is no big deal. Later bikes just separated that out as a sacrificial part. Much more of a big deal on aluminum or carbon frames than on a steel frame that's more tolerant of being bent back into shape if things get off

Based upon the use case I don't think you need as many upgrades as you think. BB- unless she is riding in a lot of bad weather I would replace the bearings and grease and be done with it. The benefit of the cartridges is lack of required maintenance. if you replace the bearings and repack what's the likelyhood that you will service the BB again in the couple years she will ride Canti vs V brakes- like you I like v brakes better. I have a harder time setting up canti. Some of that is lack of experience. That being said when my oldest son (not the one pictured) was that age he raced triathlons and cyclocross on a bike with canti he never had an issue. If you switch you will need new brake levers or travel agents. fD - only going to the middle ring.... That seems like an adjustment issue. That being said an atlus/tourney/acera FD is going to be less than $20 . (The issue I have is mixing road and MTB drive train parts, I actually knew this going in. I thought he could live w/o the largest chainring, he spins out going down hill, I told him to coast) rD- $20 gets you a new one Shifters- I would probably go new. I am pretty sure 7 and 8 speed are the same spacing (google will confirm). I would go with a set Microshift another $20. Chain$20, new cable set$20(cheap bell set), new tires $40. Grease and bearings$10, new brake pads $20 (Kool stop dual compound). So based upon my understand of the usage Grease and replace all bearings $10 New deraileurs $40 New shifters $20 New chain $20 Tires $40 New brake pads (but not new brakes) $20 So we are at $150 add 10% =$165 She will have a bike that is functionally new but not modern. It would be a better bike than what you can buy new for that price. You could find something on craigslist for $50-$150 but that may still need new parts. Will you enjoy doing the build?  

Solid bike IMO, and I had a similar steel Trek years ago that was lots of fun. I'd say clean, lube, replace the cables & housing & grips, then let her ride it. If it's a six speed, probably the rear was 130, but with steel it doesn't matter.  

Shifters just need to be cleaned and lubed and they will work again. Repaired 1000’s of these with WD40. Spray directly into the shifter and keep working the shifter up and down the gears, eventually it will grab the next gear, you can also pull on the cable as you click the shifter to help it free up. Keep doing this process, may take 5 minutes or 5 hours but it will star engaging again.  

Your thought of "pulling the plug" is the right answer. You'd have to be able to find a CL or FB garage queen for what even the minimum will be to make that bike presentable and reliable. An 820 was a low-end 'transportation' bike, and that particular one isn't even from a good era for 820s. 200Gs. Plastic-coated steel brakes and cranks. Ugh. I completely understand the appeal of refurbishing an old MTB. But you have to draw the line somewhere in order to make your investment in time, money, and brain cells worthwhile...  

That's a 7 speed, 130 spaced. If your kid is tall enough to fit that frame, go with wider handlebars even though it isn't period correct. Since you didn't know that it's 130 spaced, I'm guessing you don't know how to properly set up cantilever brakes. When they are a little off they are terrible, and when they are setup perfectly, they are only ok. Those pads are so old no matter what they look like, they are junk. You could get new pads, get those brakes setup right, go with a wider bar and better seat and pedals. Grease everything, replace anything junk with castoffs from people like me. You'll need tires, and that frame probably won't clear anything over 2.2. If it were me, I'd go crazy overboard and waste a ton of money on cheap better stuff that the kid won't care about. Vee brakes and used servo wave levers with the reach adjusted in, acolyte 8 speed cassette with a sprocket removed and the shifter setup for extra slack if the kid tries for a higher gear. $30 4x104 1x cranks, $20 chinese square taper TI bottom bracket, a good seat, rocbros or equivalent plastic pedals pedals. Ghetto tubeless of your choice and something like a rocket ron will go a long way towards the kid keeping up with you out there.  

Planning future builds around a 3x8, seems like a distraction. More than likely you will sell this on craigslist or give it away rather than moving the parts to another frame. unless you think rebuild old bikes is going to be a hobby. Yes a 6,7 and 8 speed chain are interchangable. The spacing is all the same. If you are trying to keep cost down. With the wide spacing you could also go with the friction sun race thumb shifters you can pick up a pair of them for $15-$20. Friction isn't bad up to 8 speeds. Some of this depends on where she rides and how precise she needs to be.  

Sidney Porter said: Planning future builds around a 3x8, seems like a distraction. More than likely you will sell this on craigslist or give it away rather than moving the parts to another frame. unless you think rebuild old bikes is going to be a hobby. Yes a 6,7 and 8 speed chain are interchangable. The spacing is all the same. If you are trying to keep cost down. With the wide spacing you could also go with the friction sun race thumb shifters you can pick up a pair of them for $15-$20. Friction isn't bad up to 8 speeds. Some of this depends on where she rides and how precise she needs to be. Click to expand...

You can get the BB cup out with a chisel and hammer, especially if it's not going back in. Put the chisel tangential (90 degrees to radial) at a low angle away from the surface. Strike the chisel with the hammer firmly. It will turn a little. Readjust your angle and use the same hole again. If it moved at all, should come right out with progressive tapping.  

rocwandrer said: Cheap metal vee brakes easily equal decently adjusted cantilevers. The lever pull of the cantilever levers you have isn't vee brake compatible, so you'll need new levers. They can be super cheap avid's or tektro's, but make sure they have reach adjusters for the kid's kid sized hands. I suggested old servo wave because setup right they have more leverage for the same pad clearance. Click to expand...

6-7-8 speed Shimano hg are the same sprocket thickness and spacing and derailleur cable pull per gear. You can take a sprocket and spacer out of an 8 speed cassette and it becomes 7 speed, compatible with $10 8 speed Shimano compatible shifters which are also compatible with your existing derailleur. With some thin spacers, you can use 9 of your 11 speeds on that hub and the 11 speed shifter. If it isn't on a spider, you can drop any but the 3 highest sprockets from the cassette. I used to build my own 6 speed evenly spaced 9 speed cassettes for chain clearance on my fat bike back when nobody knew what a fat bike was. If can give you some tips if you decide to go that way. I recommend a Chinese 8 speed 1x cassette and a goat link or equivalent if you want to go 1x and keep the present shifter and derailleur. I'd buy a $10 shifter before wasting more time on the present one.  

Cheap metal vee brakes easily equal decently adjusted cantilevers. The lever pull of the cantilever levers you have isn't vee brake compatible, so you'll need new levers. They can be super cheap avid's or tektro's, but make sure they have reach adjusters for the kid's kid sized hands. I suggested old servo wave because setup right they have more leverage for the same pad clearance.  

rocwandrer said: Cheap metal vee brakes easily equal decently adjusted cantilevers. Click to expand...

Servo wave is still around, it's just limited to hydraulic disk brakes above a certain level. On old cable levers, the benefit is reduced the more you have to adjust the reach in. How big are the kid's hands? It sounds like at the budget you have for this, you are better off buying a complete set of new low end vee brakes. Or maybe seeing if someone who rides in your area has a set sitting in a box they don't want to just throw away. If that bike really was missing a bearing from the factory, it's essentially never been ridden. You'd have a wear ring in the spindle on the NDS. I bet the ego of the person who put it back together wrongly is what took it out of service years ago.  

xcandrew said: I'd make it run and fit well and not replace anything that doesn't need replacing. Looks like you need a bottom bracket. Measure the length of the spindle and order a Shimano UN-BB300 ($15-$20) the same length. You'll probably also need a pair of crank fixing bolts. To get the fixed cup off the frame, do you have a bench vise at home? If so, clamp the fixed cup, and turn the frame (left-handed thread!) to get it off. There are right-side Shimano 7-speed brake/shift levers on ebay for about $15 (ST-EF500). That takes care of your broken shifter. It looks like the brake lever likely has adjustable pull because it says it can work with both cantilever and linear pull brakes. Keep in mind that your existing levers are combined brake and shift , and don't have separate mounting clamps to the handlebars. You can change that, but if you get new brake levers that aren't combined brake/shift, you'd need new shifters too, so getting that $15 7-speed brake/shift lever helps keep things budget. Replace the brake and shift cables and cable housings (unless the ones on there already feel nice and slick - unlikely). I wouldn't bother trying to convert to full-length housings. Make sure to do the job well, file down the cable housing ends so they are smooth/flat and square, have the runs smooth but not too long, etc. Measure the old chain with a ruler . When new, the pins are exactly 1/2" apart. Look at pins 12" apart. It shouldn't have worn longer to more than 12-1/8". If so, replace both the chain and cassette (a new chain on an old cassette skips). The front chainrings look like they are probably fine (steel?). There are cheap 7-speed Shimano cassettes on ebay. The reason your 11-speed cassette doesn't fit is because Shimano freehub bodies became longer between 7-speed and 8-speed and up. There is no point doing a freehub swap since you want to keep it low budget. I'd keep the cantilevers unless they prove to be bad with new cables and correct adjustment. Maybe put on a set of new pads (Koolstops are good). I dislike the variable mechanical advantage of Servo Wave levers (about to ditch the left on my bike to match the DiaCompe on my right) - it's less predictable in use. For a kid's bike, it also has a greater risk that she won't know to tell you that the levers are pulling to the bars after some pad wear. Maybe throw on a V-brake on the front if you aren't happy with the cantis after actually riding them. Existing pedals should be fine. But DMR V6s are cheap ($15-20) and good (as long as they aren't getting rock strikes to knock the plastic pins off). I'd put on some new grips and a wider handlebar. (Look on ebay for 25.4 handlebars.) Do an internet search for to see if there is a bike co-op where you live. If so, would be a great place to work on an old bike. They would have tools that you can use for cheap, and lots of old usable parts for cheap. It's nice especially for trying out different old stem lengths and bars. Click to expand...

My co-op is pretty good and well organized, but shifters and brakes are not their strong suit. They are organized but the pairs are separate. You also need to pay attention that all of the loose pieces are attached. They are affordable. The trek 800 drop bar conversion (pictured in this thread) has co-op parts: saddle, handlebar, rear wheel and cassette it totaled either $30-$35 (I paid them $50 as a donation, everything looked close to new)  

Sidney Porter said: My co-op is pretty good and well organized, but shifters and brakes are not their strong suit. They are organized but the pairs are separate. You also need to pay attention that all of the loose pieces are attached. They are affordable. The trek 800 drop bar conversion (pictured in this thread) has co-op parts: saddle, handlebar, rear wheel and cassette it totaled either $30-$35 (I paid them $50 as a donation, everything looked close to new) Click to expand...

surly357 said: From the perspective of a guy who was building and selling those BITD, and maintaining them for decades after that, it's funny to see your expectations on the old parts. I'm sure it's very common with the "younger generation". I'm NOT knocking it or putting you down, it's just interesting to see how far 'normal' has shifted. Thinking 200Gs brake levers would have a leverage adjustment for V-brakes, expecting a master link, stuff like that. The old "still in the business" me would be pounding on the 'rolleyes' emoji, but "glad to be out of the business" me just finds these threads entertaining. ;-) Click to expand...

From the perspective of a guy who was building and selling those BITD, and maintaining them for decades after that, it's funny to see your expectations on the old parts. I'm sure it's very common with the "younger generation". I'm NOT knocking it or putting you down, it's just interesting to see how far 'normal' has shifted. Thinking 200Gs brake levers would have a leverage adjustment for V-brakes, expecting a master link, stuff like that. The old "still in the business" me would be pounding on the 'rolleyes' emoji, but "glad to be out of the business" me just finds these threads entertaining. ;-)  

Personally I would not worry about crank length unless she is getting (and complaining) a lot of pedal strike.  

Kids this age don't really pay that much attention to these details unless they are really dialed in. I am basing this on working with kids starting out in NICA.  

Vintage Trek Bicycle Catalogs and Bike Brochures, Fisher, Klein LeMond

145-155 cranks is the sweet spot for a 4'11-5'2" person, based on my limited experiments. Ultra light ti bb's are available for pretty cheap. Find your local Facebook group and post your project. Someone like me might not be willing to ship, but might give you what you need for pickup, for the asking.  

Sorry for responding so late. I had to catch my daughter to measure here first. she is 4'10" now. So probably not more than 5'2"next year. Obviously hard to predict. but a 160mm crank may be a good compromise to serve her for more than just a year? Now I'm a bit concerned with using the old 170mm cranks. Yes, she can adapt...it my take the joy? Really not sure without trying.  

I've built up a couple of 1x7's with a wide range 7 spd cassette and ganhopper cranks (which come in different lengths), both available on Amazon. Fine for street duty, just gear it tall and let her work for it. That's six more gears than she needs anyway. Trust me your life will be easier if you can live with that for now. If you want an upgrade path get a friction shifter. I buy whatever the cheapest vintage Suntour thumb shifter I can find on ebay, pretty much can't go wrong there. Re cantis: third time's the charm. First coupla tries they won't feel quite right but once you get it, they are fine. The park tools vid helped me. Velo orange had their handlebars on sale recently. Check em out, VO pretty much exists to turn crappy old "mountain" bikes into lovely city bikes. Check out the "oldshovel" channel on YouTube, especially the heartwarming vids where he builds bikes with his kids. (Lots of good tips too)  

Not sure of the age of your bike, but confirm that the cranks are not included in this old Shimano crank recall: VOLUNTARY RECALL - FC-CT90, FC-M290, FC-MC12 CRANKS | SHIMANO INFORMATION & NEWS | SHIMANO BIKE-US Voluntary recall - FC-CT90, FC-M290, FC-MC12 Cranks. It's an old recall, but I had new cranks, BB, FD, and chain replaced at no charge a few months ago on an older Trek I had.  

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Fitting your bicycle

When your bike fits well (seat height, handlebar height, seat angle, etc.), you’ll have more fun riding. And when you have fun riding, you’ll ride more often – which is good for everybody. If you’re having trouble getting just the right fit, stop by a Trek bike shop for help. We want to make sure you love the way your bike feels. How you position yourself on your bike is largely a matter of personal preference—it’s a blend of comfort, efficiency, and balance. There’s no hard and fast rule for how to sit on a bicycle, and there are a number of different riding positions and preferences. For example, a more upright position is generally more comfortable for casual riding around town. For racing, an aerodynamic position bent deeply over the handlebars helps a rider increase speed. Regardless of the kind of riding you do, you should be comfortable. If you haven’t ridden a bicycle for some time, it’s normal to have a break-in period as you get used to the muscular demands of pedaling and to the pressure of pedals, handlebar, and saddle. But after this period, a bicycle should be comfortable and not cause aches, pains, or numbness. Check the sizing & fit charts at the bottom of each bicycle’s product page on trekbikes.com for detailed sizing and frame geometry specifics.

Handlebar height

Generally, most of a rider's weight should be on the saddle. The handlebar should be within a few inches higher or lower than the saddle. A lower handlebar position is better for speed, a higher one is better for comfort or balance.

Handlebar angle

Rotate the handlebar in the stem to change the angle of your hands and wrists. Your hands should be comfortable while you ride. You should be able to easily operate all controls (brakes, shifter, seat dropper, etc.) without needing to stretch, or having to move your hands too far from your normal riding position.

Seat height

There are two methods for finding the right seat height. Whichever you use, start with the pedal in the 6:00 position.

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⚠ WARNING — Extended riding with a poorly adjusted seat, or one that does not properly support your pelvic area, can cause injury to your nerves and blood vessels. If your seat causes pain or numbness, adjust the seat position. If after adjustment, your seat still causes pain or numbness, consult your bike shop about adjustments or replacing the seat with one that fits you better.

Seat fore-aft adjustment

Slide the seat on the seatpost or rails to adjust it fore and aft. This adjustment changes how far you have to reach to grasp your handlebars, and it shifts your weight distribution on the bicycle, both of which affect how your bike handles. As the seat position is changed, the angle of the hip rotation also changes. This may put more stress on your lower back.

Carbon seat rails

⚠ WARNING — Only use a Bontrager seatpost that has 7x10 rail clamps or has two seatclamp bolts. Non- approved rail clamps can cause the saddle rails to break, which could cause a loss of control resulting in serious injury or death.

Position of your feet on the pedals

The way you position your feet on your pedals determines the efficiency and power of your pedal stroke. Find a comfortable position with the ball of your foot directly over the pedal axle.

For more great bicycle information and sound advice, see our owners manuals

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Geographic coordinates of Elektrostal, Moscow Oblast, Russia

City coordinates

Coordinates of Elektrostal in decimal degrees

Coordinates of elektrostal in degrees and decimal minutes, utm coordinates of elektrostal, geographic coordinate systems.

WGS 84 coordinate reference system is the latest revision of the World Geodetic System, which is used in mapping and navigation, including GPS satellite navigation system (the Global Positioning System).

Geographic coordinates (latitude and longitude) define a position on the Earth’s surface. Coordinates are angular units. The canonical form of latitude and longitude representation uses degrees (°), minutes (′), and seconds (″). GPS systems widely use coordinates in degrees and decimal minutes, or in decimal degrees.

Latitude varies from −90° to 90°. The latitude of the Equator is 0°; the latitude of the South Pole is −90°; the latitude of the North Pole is 90°. Positive latitude values correspond to the geographic locations north of the Equator (abbrev. N). Negative latitude values correspond to the geographic locations south of the Equator (abbrev. S).

Longitude is counted from the prime meridian ( IERS Reference Meridian for WGS 84) and varies from −180° to 180°. Positive longitude values correspond to the geographic locations east of the prime meridian (abbrev. E). Negative longitude values correspond to the geographic locations west of the prime meridian (abbrev. W).

UTM or Universal Transverse Mercator coordinate system divides the Earth’s surface into 60 longitudinal zones. The coordinates of a location within each zone are defined as a planar coordinate pair related to the intersection of the equator and the zone’s central meridian, and measured in meters.

Elevation above sea level is a measure of a geographic location’s height. We are using the global digital elevation model GTOPO30 .

Elektrostal , Moscow Oblast, Russia

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Elektrostal

Elektrostal Localisation : Country Russia , Oblast Moscow Oblast . Available Information : Geographical coordinates , Population, Altitude, Area, Weather and Hotel . Nearby cities and villages : Noginsk , Pavlovsky Posad and Staraya Kupavna .

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Trek 820 Women's

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Weight / M - 15.15 kg / 33.39 lbs (with tubes)

At a glance

820 Women’s is an excellent entryway to a world of off-road adventures. It’s the most affordable mountain bike in our lineup and the ideal choice for women who are interested in the MTB life but also want a hybrid bike with a confidence-building stepthrough frame and a saddle made specifically for women.

Where To Buy

Specifications

• Frame Trek Custom Steel, rack mounts, 135x5mm QR
• Fork SR Suntour M-3030, coil spring, 100x5mm QR, 75mm travel
• Crank Shimano Tourney TY301, 42/34/24, 170mm length
• Bottom Bracket VP BC73, 68mm, threaded
• Front Derailleur Shimano Tourney TY500, 31.8mm clamp, top swing, dual pull
• Rear Derailleur Shimano Tourney TY300, long cage, 34T max cog
• Shifters Shimano Tourney EF41, 7 speed
• Brakeset Tektro alloy linear-pull
• Handlebar Size: XS, M Bontrager alloy, 31.8mm, 15mm rise, 660mm width Size: L Bontrager alloy, 31.8mm, 15mm rise, 690mm width
• Seatpost Size: XS, M Bontrager alloy, 29.2mm, 12mm offset, 300mm length Size: L Bontrager alloy, 29.2mm, 12mm offset, 330mm length
• Stem Size: XS Size: M
• Grips Bontrager SSR
• Headset 1-1/8'' threadless

Q: How much is a 2020 Trek 820 Women's?

A 2020 Trek 820 Women's is typically priced around $400 USD when new. Be sure to shop around for the best price, and also look to the used market for a great deal.

Q: Where to buy a 2020 Trek 820 Women's?

The 2020 Trek 820 Women's may be purchased directly from Trek .

Q: How much does a 2020 Trek 820 Women's weigh?

A 2020 Trek 820 Women's weights M - 15.15 kg / 33.39 lbs (with tubes).

Q: What size 2020 Trek 820 Women's should I get?

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