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A culinary tour of Ticino, the Swiss canton with Italian influences

The Swiss canton on the Italian border blends Mediterranean and mountain cuisine with charcuterie, honey-sweet panettone and floral wines serves against a towering Alpine backdrop.

Switzerland’s Gotthard Base Tunnel is the longest and deepest railway tunnel in the world. Trains burrow for 35 miles beneath snow-capped Alpine peaks, plunging to depths known mostly to miners and single-celled organisms. Board a train to journey through it, and you can bear witness to this feat of engineering, and with a window seat you also see how this tunnel divides two different worlds.

North of the Gotthard, you’re in Switzerland, among meadows where cowbells clang and kitchens serve stew and strudel. When the train re-emerges into sunshine, south of the tunnel, palms begin to displace conifers trackside and the hiss of espresso machines can be heard in station cafes. And when the balmy breath of the distant Mediterranean drifts in through an open carriage window, you understand that, in traversing the tunnel, you’ve made the journey from Northern to Southern Europe.

Specifically, you’ve arrived in Ticino, the Italian-speaking canton of Switzerland that in many ways resembles Italy. Here, Vespas stop for you at zebra crossings and statues of William Tell cohabit with those of Dante Alighieri in the elegant town squares. And although food is treated with the same reverence as in that peninsula to the south, it’s   tempered by Swiss precision. There’s certainly much to look forward to when locals glance at their expensive watches and realise it is lunchtime.

It’s noon when I disembark the train in Ticino’s biggest town, Lugano, perched where green foothills meet the vast blue lake of the same name. I’m met by guide Anna Bezzola and taken to a local deli — Gabbani — for my initiation into the rites of Ticinese cuisine. Sausages the size of artillery pieces dangle from the ceiling. Jars of porcini are stacked in pyramids. Fruit panettone hint at the influence of Milan, which is just over an hour away by rail.

Formaggio d'alpe ticinese is a semi-hard cheese, produced upon the mountains of Ticino.

Wandering around Gabbani, the aromas of Ticino’s prize produce hits the nostrils: the semi-hard Alpine cheeses that are often produced in remote mountain farmhouses using recipes guarded by jealous custodians and the high ranges that enclose them. Gabbani’s Alpine cheeses are like ancient stones — their exteriors coarse and craggy — until the slice of a knife discloses their young, buttery core. We try a few, including sweet piora and the slightly nuttier alpe manegorio. Anna explains that the pastures the cheeses are named after shape their flavours — cows on south-facing meadows graze on different flora to those on north-facing ones. “Environment is everything,” she explains. “Sometimes you can almost taste the barn.”

Beneath the pastures lies the literal and metaphorical bedrock of Ticinese cuisine. The next day we drive north into the valley of Vallemaggia. Here, Ticino’s topography is steep and high: snowy mountaintops mingle with passing clouds; waterfalls slip through chestnut forests to a valley floor pungent with wild garlic. All around is the detritus of rockfalls dispatched from the summits — and hidden beneath them Ticino’s famed grottoes.

Put simply, a Ticinese grotto is a natural subterranean space dedicated to storing produce — meats, cheeses and wines — a relic of an age before electric refrigerators. You see   them across Ticino — from the outside, they can resemble hobbit houses, with their tiny doors and bits of brickwork. They stay warm in winter and cool in summer — and it’s often summer when their padlocks are unlocked and their contents uncorked or unpacked to be shared at granite tables outside   in the sunshine.

“The grotto is where people congregate,” explains Anna as we explore a complex of them in the village of Cevio. “It’s where cuisine connects to geology.”

Inside their crypt-like spaces is a deep, damp silence that whispers of cheeses and   wines growing venerable. In more recent   times, the concept of the grotto has evolved: some serve charcuterie to passersby,   others offer hot food. In a wider sense, the word   ‘grotto’ has been applied to any restaurant serving hearty mountain dishes and wine in   tiny china mugs emblazoned with the flag of Ticino. At a   grotto, you find a Mediterranean spirit of   epicureanism. But there’s also a pragmatism   characteristic of mountain folk, stashing their bounty through the seasons, patiently waiting until the day the little door creaks open again.

An hour south, in the village of Arogno near Lugano’s south shores, Gabriele Bianchi has a technique for avoiding bee stings. “You have to pretend to be an astronaut,” he says, moving through a swarm with deliberate, zero-gravity movements. “You should go slowly — and don’t be afraid: they can sense fear on you.”

Gabriele is harvesting some of the first honey of the season at his farm in the hillside village. With a nervously outstretched finger I scoop some from his hive: it tastes richly floral with the tang of false acacia (whose nectar the bees have plundered of late). Soon, Gabriele says, the honey will have a flavour of chestnut, as those trees, in turn, begin to flower.

Beehives are characteristic of Ticino and a mainstay of Gabriele’s organic farm, Azienda Agricola Bianchi. Just 25 years old, the farm takes inspiration from a more distant era, when self-sufficient smallholdings rather than corporate monocultures defined the Swiss hills. The principle, Gabriele insists, is that everything works together — his wildflower meadows support the bees, a flock of geese munch bothersome weeds, while herbs thrive in the shade beneath vines. In ages past, such an approach was necessary for farmers inhabiting heights far beyond the reach of tarmac roads. Today the emphasis is on sustainability.

Sitting under a pergola in late-afternoon sunshine, we savour some of Gabriele’s wines — made with johanniter and solaris grapes, common varieties in Switzerland. This being Ticino, we toast in French, German and Italian before sipping and savouring the view. Above us, bursts of cultivated edelweiss; beside us, young olive trees imported from Lake Como’s shores. They’re ambassadors from separate ecological worlds — and the farm is poised to make the most of both.

“It’s about picking the fruits of the land,” says Gabriele. “And doing it with knowledge inherited through generations.”

Only a few generations ago, Ticino’s uplands were much busier. Throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, mountain communities emptied out as people sought new lives in France or the US sooner than suffer another hard winter of Swiss snowdrifts.

Not so long ago there were 400 residents in the highland hamlet of Vergeletto. Today, that figure is closer to 40 — one of whom took it upon himself to revive an ancient culinary tradition, and thus revive the fortunes of the village.

Ilario Garbani restored Vergeletto's watermill in order to produce farina bóna, a sweet-flavoured flour once widely eaten across Ticino.

Balancing a straw hat on his head, Ilario   Garbani shimmies down a timber beam   to open a sluice gate. With a creak, his restored watermill chunters slowly into life. Outside, a mountain stream crashes about the paddles, while inside a millstone whirrs, casting off a fine powder. This so-called ‘good flour’, farina bóna — made from roasted corn — was once eaten widely across Ticino but later partly displaced by more versatile maize and all but forgotten in the 1960s after the last miller passed away.

Ilario, a former teacher, interviewed elderly residents about their memories of the mill, and rebuilt its mechanisms from scratch. His sweet-flavoured flour has found its way into everything from craft beer to ice cream and pasta dishes — in its smoky notes you can almost taste ancient winters by the fireside in a mountain hut. It’s coveted by local restaurants, and visitors make their way to Vergeletto to seek it out.

“It’s about food,” Ilario tells me. “But it’s also about the past: experiencing the same flavours as our forebears.”

There’s something hypnotic in watching the flurries of farina bóna floating from the millstone — like parmesan being grated over pasta, or snowfall on a Swiss mountaintop. Soon after, a bag of farina bóna drifts into the Gotthard Tunnel — stashed in my luggage on a northbound train, along with Alpine cheese and a bottle of Ticinese wine.

Where to eat in Ticino:

La Tinèra Located in Lugano’s old town, La Tinèra serves old-school Ticinese food in a rustic setting. Mains are hearty and wholesome. Try specialities like traditional Luganega sausage on a bed of risotto, or a Milanese classic, osso bucco (braised veal shanks) with polenta. Two courses from 45 CHF (£39) without wine.

La Fontana Ristorante

You can expect imaginative cooking served at this superlative hilltop spot overlooking Locarno. Seasonal antipasti might include asparagus with toasted almond flakes and ginger sour cream; pastas include raviolini with vallemaggia cheese fondue. Veal mains come wrapped in local prosciutto ham. From 70 CHF (£61).

Ristorante Fiorentina Situated in Locarno’s backstreets, Ristorante Fiorentina has linen-clad tables set beneath vaulted ceilings, and a creative menu. Go for a starter of crispy polenta bruschetta with vegetable ragout, and perhaps a warming main of casarecce pasta with rabbit and truffle. Finish with farina bóna (a corn flour) mousse with brownies. From 40 CHF (£35).

Grotto San Michele Set in the ancient Castles of Bellinzona, this grotto comes with a sunny terrace offering views of vineyards and Alpine ranges. Ticinese charcuterie is served with pickles, while primi include farina bóna gnocchi. A secondi of blue cheese polenta is a must if you can manage it. From 70 CHF (£61).

Related Topics

• FOOD CULTURE
• FOOD TOURISM
• FOOD AND THE ENVIRONMENT

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Vallarta Eats Food Tours

Tacos after Dark

Our tacos after dark tour is essential for anyone looking for full taco immersion. stroll the streets of vallarta and taste a selection of tacos carefully curated to leave you with a well rounded exposure to the beloved taco..

When the sun sets, the beaches empty, and night falls over Puerto Vallarta, the city comes alive with the sights, sounds, and smells of Vallarta’s vibrant food scene. Join our foodie guides as you stroll the historic streets of Vallarta’s oldest neighborhoods and sample a variety of tacos and sweet treats from the family-run carts and restaurants that helped build our city’s long standing reputation for great food. 

The Tacos After Dark Tour is offered daily at 6 and 6:30 pm and is limited to 8-10 guests to keep our curated tours intimate and engaging.

You can plan on 5 savory food stops tasting 6 to 8 (depending on how adventurous you are) tacos/foods on your tour. You will also stop for fresh churros and hand made ice cream. Tour routes change depending on partner operating days, but here is a sample of some of the foods and tacos you may find on your tour: arrachera, traditional pastor, shrimp taco, cabeza, pork rib taco, enmolada, tacos dorados, adobada, ice cream, and churros.

Keep in mind, past guests tell us the best time to take our tours is the beginning of your stay in Puerto Vallarta  —  y ou’ll be able to return to your newly found favorites throughout the rest of your visit!

Departs Daily at 6 and 6:30 pm

Please check the FAQs for additional info regarding food allergies or other dietary modifications before booking this tour. For Vegetarians, we recommend booking “Tacos after Dark” as it has the most flexibility for substitutions.  None of Vallarta Eats food tours are suitable for Vegan or Plant-Based lifestyles.

Vallarta Eats Tours Operate Rain or Shine. In the summer months please check the forecast and come prepared. Please read the terms of our cancellation policy before scheduling a tour.

The Details

Fees, registration, and payment details.

• The Tacos After Dark Tour is $65 USD for adults, $45 USD 6 – 11yrs, and $5 USD 0-5yrs
• Need to reserve for more than six or eight people? Call or email us today! Use the “Book Now” button above to secure your space on the Tacos After Dark Tour! We strongly suggest that you make your reservation early — space is limited and times can get snapped up without warning! Book Now to secure your spot!

What's Included

• Included:  All predetermined food, bottled water, and traditional agua fresca.
• Excluded:  Alcohol, food to take to your hotel or vacation rental.

Where to meet and when

Departs Daily  at 6 & 6:30 pm

Pickup/Departure The Tacos After Dark Puerto Vallarta tour begins next to the River Cafe Restaurant (Isla Rio Cuale 4, Zona Romántica, Centro, 48300 Puerto Vallarta, Jal).  Your Vallarta Eats Foodie Guide can be identified by the Vallarta Eats shirt she/he will be wearing. If you are driving please allow time to find parking. This location is easy to find and many bus routes will take you there. Also, any taxi will know this location. Make sure to check our FAQ for driving times from nearby hotels and resorts. Information on driving times given to you by your hotel concierge may be based on old traffic patterns, and we are unable to wait for late guests.

Ending Point Your Vallarta Eats Foodie Guide will assist you by providing instructions for returning to your hotel or vacation rental via foot, bus or taxi.

What to Bring

• Cash for any desired purchases and don’t forget your camera.
• Please wear comfortable shoes and bring your sunscreen, remember, this is a walking tour.
• If you enjoyed your time on the tour, please be sure to take care of your Foodie Guide. In the tourism industry, standard gratuity is 15% to 20% of the retail price of the tour ($8 – $11 USD or $144 – $198 MXN per guest). Gracias!

Cancellation Policy

Tours or individual tickets cancelled more than 48 hours in advance of scheduled tour time will receive a full refund. Tours canceled less than 48 hours can be rescheduled with a $20 rebooking fee, but are not eligible for refund. Tours that are rebooked cannot be refunded even prior to the 48 hour cancelation window. Guests who are “No-Shows” — guests who do not show up for their scheduled tour time or are not present when the tour leaves the starting point (10 minutes after the tour’s scheduled start time) are not eligible for refund, rescheduling, or credit.

Gift Cards and Gift Certificates are non-refundable.

Booking insurance is available for purchases of a $9.99 flat fee made through the website and covers cancelations made between 24 and 48 hours prior to tour start time.

Custom tours are subject to cancellation policies as agreed upon between client and Vallarta Eats.

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• Private Experiences
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• Agave Spirits Experience

For Street Foodies And Taco Lovers!

Some Of The Best Food In Vallarta Is Only Served At Night.  The street is the best way to find the best local tacos  is always something exciting to do in Vallarta as our city really comes alive at night. Save your appetite because this evening food tour takes you to the street food stands that are only open late in the day.

O ur local taco lover takes you around Vallarta on a night tour to eat and drink at seven classic taquerías, from established places to street stalls and modern locations. Enjoy the delightful variety of tacos that Vallarta has to offer.

A mix of taco stands, and seat down small eateries will make this an unforgettable night filled with flavors, aromas, and textures that will leave you wanting more!

• This 3.5-hour guided food tour kicks off in the heart of downtown Vallarta.
• Come hungry as we will walk a little over 1 mile and take a quick 10-minute bus ride to dine at 8 authentic restaurants and street food stands.
• Tacos include carne asada, al pastor, seafood, marlin and cabeza. Also include is regional tasting of agave spirit Racilla!
• Eat and drink your way through the fun and vibrant neighborhood of Old town with your new friend and local guide.
• This walking tour allows you to really learn your way around the streets and feel like a local of the neighborhood
• Visit popular places among locals.
• Enjoy one of kind tacos  in the classic style: standing elbow to elbow in stands packed with locals!

Departs at 5:00pm

10 people 1 tour guide

Tour takes place rain or shine

WHAT TO WEAR:

Comfortable clothing and shoes

Suitable for most ages and fitness levels

Transportation:

Tour includes:.

7 food tastings, racilla tasting and cocktail, expert tour guide, tasting map with insiders recommendations

START LOCATION:

Gueros restaurant(Thur-Tues) On Wednesday Lazaro Cardenas Park

TRIP ADVISOR:

#1 tour company with over 4500 reviews

Delicious sopes

Beef Cheek Taco

MARLIN TACOS

Steak Tostada

What to expect from this tour.

More Than Just Street Tacos –  We’re foodies too and we understand your craving for street tacos, but for a truly authentic experience we have added a few other regional dishes to our list of tasting locations. We promise you won’t be disappointed.

Behind The Food –  We share the story behind each dish you taste and a bit about each street food stand. We point out the landmarks we pass along the way and share a bit about Vallarta’s rich history and culture.

Trusted   Experts-  Vallarta Food Tours is over 10 years old and is the #1 Tour on Trip Advisor with 3200 5 star reviews. Our fun loving guides know food and they know PV like only a local resident can!

A Foodie Experience –  Our tour guides are local foodies who are eager to introduce you to authentic regional food and drinks. From delicious dishes to elevated cocktails you will be sure to return to your favorite spots before you leave PV.

A Culinary Tour With A Bit Of History –  We share the story behind the food, including the history of each restaurant and regional Mexican dish. We also share some of the highlights of Vallarta’s rich local culture.

Discover Hidden Gems -Uncover where the locals really eat, drink and shop in Old Town 

Insider Scoop - Insider look at 7 local vendors and entertaining stories of Vallarta rich history and culture!

Becoming a local in 3 Hours -Our goal is to give you a taste of local life from a local’s perspective! Food tours give you enough authenticity to feel like you’ve discovered something new, combined with a carefully planned itinerary to ensure the experience is safe and fun

Good things come in small packages -Enjoy the intimacy of a small group

Food Heroes -Our restaurants are local legends, family-owned and often specialize in only one dish, which means the quality is high and the flavor is even better.

Why take this tour?

• So Many Street Tacos So Little Time.  If you are only in Vallarta for a day, a weekend, or a week you don’t want to waste your time at a street food stand that is subpar. We make it easy by taking you to the best street food vendors in Vallarta.  
• Vallarta Comes Alive At Night . Enjoy the sights, sounds and undeniable energy of PV’s culinary scene. This tour is the perfect way to start your trip, learn your way around, and find a few restaurants to frequent during your stay.
• Small Group Tour. Our foodie excursions are for tourists and snowbirds alike. We keep our groups small to ensure that everyone has a great time and enjoys an immersive experience. You are sure to make a few foodie friends along the way!
• The Best Of Vallarta. Our small group tours introduce you to the hidden gems that make our culinary scene so unique. This goes beyond the popular tourist spots to the local favorites you might not find on your own.
• #1 Tour in Vallarta out of 400 tours in TripAdvisor- We are the #1 ranked attraction on Google and TripAdvisor with a 5-star average with 4,000+ reviews and over 10 years of experience.
• Memories - Create unique memories that will last a lifetime.  
• Foodie Fun.  If you love to eat this is the tour for you. Take your tour early in your vacation so that you can return to the spots you enjoyed most. Make a few new foodie friends along the way!  
• Experience Authentic Mexico.  With over 1,000 restaurants to choose from in Bay it can be overwhelming to decide where to eat. We introduce you to the local gems serving the best regional cuisine our city has to offer.
• Learn through Food- You will learn the distinct and unique tastes of each of these regional dishes, native spirits, as well as learn about the process of how they are made and the importance to the Mexican Culture.
• Discover new favorites -Experience iconic foods and hidden gems of Versalles during your visit
• Total Immersion -Immerse Yourself in food, cocktails, history and culture in 4 hours!

Tour highlights include:

Ride a city bus and learn how to do like a local

Meet and talk to local food heroes

Explore hidden spots

Eat where the local eat!

Discover a new world of taco!

Best churros in Vallarta

STRESS FREE POLICY

Tour bookings can be changed to any date, different tour or turned into a gift certificate to use on a future date with no expirations or 100% refunded 48 hours before the tours starts. A change of plans is no problem!

Frequently Asked Questions

Anyone interested in having fun and learning more about Denver- from its unique past to its current buzzing culinary scene!

Still have questions? Visit our FAQ page.

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