kawasaki voyager rear tire removal

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Voyager tire removal info

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I am looking for a thread I ran across but can't seem to find again, it deals with changing the rear tire on the 1700 Voyager, it by passes all the Removal Crap called out in the service manual and simplify's the process, anyone know where I can find it?  

Is that a minivan?  

No Dork, its A full Bagger Kawasaki, you are on the Kawasaki forum page Click to expand...

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• Kawasaki Versys 650 Motorcycle Talk
• 🔧Technical Discussion - V-650

DIY - Front & Rear Wheel Removal How-To with Pics

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I know many of you here have removed your wheels before and this is second nature to you. But there are also lots of new owners here who may be unsure about doing their own maintenance / service to their machines. I’m a new motorcycle rider, this is my first bike, and it’s time for new tires. I wanted to remove my wheels myself, and I thought I would document with pictures the process in case anyone else might find this helpful. It took me less than an hour to remove the wheels, and that includes taking the pictures as well. The DIY thread on oil changes kind of prompted me to do this. I got most of this from this and other forums, but these are the first pics I’ve seen with the Versys (most pics were Ninjas). Hope you like it. Jack Tools needed: Rear/Front stand (NOTE: I didn’t have the triple-tree front stand adapter and didn’t need it). Torque wrench Cable ties or twine 22mm socket 27mm socket 12mm socket 6mm hex bit 14mm hex bit 12mm open end wrench Pliers High temp grease Torque specs: Rear axle = 80 ft/lb Rear brake caliper mounting bolts = 18 ft/lb Front axle = 80 ft/lb Front axle clamp bolt = 15 ft/lb Front axle caliper mounting bolts = 25 ft/lb Rear Wheel Removal: 1. Use the rear stand to raise the back end and remove the cotter pin in the rear axle. 2. Using the 6mm hex bit, remove the two bolts on the rear brake caliper. Tie the brakes up out of the way using cable ties or twine. BE SURE NOT TO PUSH THE BRAKE PEDAL! This will compress the brake pads and make it difficult to re-install. 3. Using the 12mm open-end wrench, loosen the chain adjuster bolt locknuts and then tighten the chain adjuster bolt. This will release any tension on the axle. 4. Remove the rear axle. This will require a 22mm socket on the right side and a 27mm socket on the left. A breaker bar will be helpful to loosen the axle. It’s helpful to use a piece of wood to support the weight of the wheel as you pull the axle bolt out. 5. Be sure to note the spacers on the wheel between the swingarm and the wheel. Remove them so they don’t get lost. These will need to be greased before reinstalling. Also the rear caliper mount will become loose. Set it to the side for reinstallation later. 6. Roll the wheel forward to loosen and remove the chain from the sprocket and remove the wheel. 7. Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to replace the caliper mount and adjust the chain to the proper tension. It’s helpful to snug the axle so that there is less free play and then fine tune the chain tension. Be sure to torque the axle to 80 ft/lb and re-insert the cotter pin. Reinstall the rear brake assembly and torque the caliper mounting bolts to 18 ft/lb. Front Wheel Removal: 1. While the bike is still on the rear stand (but before putting it on the front stand), loosen the front axle clamp bolt with a 6mm hex bit. You do not need to remove it fully, just be sure it’s loose. 2. Using the 14mm hex bit, loosen the front axle bolt. A breaker bar makes this step easier. Once it is loose you can go ahead and place the motorcycle on the front stand. 3. Using the 12mm socket, remove the front brake caliper mounting bolts. Once you have the brake off of the rotor, replace the bolts back in the caliper to prevent losing them. Hang the brake using cable ties or twine. BE SURE NOT TO PUSH THE BRAKE PEDAL! This will compress the brake pads and make it difficult to re-install. Repeat the process for the other side. 4. Once the brakes are tied off out of the way, finish removing the front axle bolt. It’s helpful to use some wood to support the wheel while removing the axle bolt. Be sure to note the spacers on the wheel between the forks and the wheel. Remove them so they don’t get lost. These will need to be greased before reinstalling. 5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to replace the calipers and torque them to 25 ft/lb. Once the front axle bolt has been torqued to 80 ft/lb, be sure to drop the front to the ground and bounce the front forks 4-5 times. This will seat the forks on the axle. Then you can tighten the front axle clamp bolt to 15 ft/lb. The last couple of pics are of the old & new tires I got. You can see why it’s time to replace the old ones, and that’s with only 6,000 miles. I definitely hope to get a few more miles out of the new ones. Hoped you found this helpful.  

Attachments

Thanks for the pics. Looks like your using the t-rex spools. Did yours come with aluminum spacers? I installed the screw into the spool, placed spacer onto the screw followed by the washer. I thought the spacers are for clearance purposes but from your picks I'm not sure if I should be using them. With the spacers the spools are out further about a quarter inch  

cdmoore74 said: Thanks for the pics. Looks like your using the t-rex spools. Did yours come with aluminum spacers? I installed the screw into the spool, placed spacer onto the screw followed by the washer. I thought the spacers are for clearance purposes but from your picks I'm not sure if I should be using them. With the spacers the spools are out further about a quarter inch Click to expand...

Thanks! Nice write up. My biggest challenge with the wheels was having to go by the right tools...but now I have them. I noticed your garage floor. Did you do it yourself? Was it from a kit? How is it holding up.  

sharrison56 said: Thanks! Nice write up. My biggest challenge with the wheels was having to go by the right tools...but now I have them. I noticed your garage floor. Did you do it yourself? Was it from a kit? How is it holding up. Click to expand...

I think I got the 14mm in a set of 4 from PEP Boys for about $8 .  

GOFASTR said: And regarding the tools, the only one that was a pain was finding a 1/2"-drive 14mm hex bit...I didn't want to buy a set of 4 bits at Sears for $45, so I went to the Lowe's tool rental shop. They didn't have one to rent, but the guy looked in their own toolbox, found what I needed, handed it to me and said to just bring it back when I was done. It's been in their shop for years and had never been used. Now I've got the time to find one for myself between now and the next time I have to pull the wheels off. Click to expand...

fasteddiecopeman said: I bought mine at Harbor Freight Tools. It's a set of allen wrench sockets, some are 3/8 drive and the bigger ones are 1/2" drive (including the 14mm). Ed Click to expand...

Very helpful, many thanks!  

Excellent write up, thanks for taking the time. +1 on Harborfreight, get all my tools there. Only been disappointed with one tool, my impact wrench, but that might be the fault of the HF compressor, one or other is to blame, the rest are great. On the reassemble, a suggestion. When putting the front wheel back on, before you torque everything down (but when all nuts and bolts are back in place hand tight), push down on the handle bars a couple of times to 'seat' the forks correctly. When taking off the brake caliper mounting bolts use a six sided socket. Mine were way over-torqued and I burred one over with a regular socket, before putting my six-sided on. Another good buy at HF is a set of six sided mm impact sockets. Machog  

Tank bag What kind of tank bag is that? Where can I get one? It looks like a great match! Thanks, VFV  

:clap::clap::clap: Great write up! I may tackle this myself now! I assume that you had a shop mount and balance the new tires? How much did you save over them doing it for you? Steve  

Another great how to post, somebody should compile these into a tech manual  

v for vendetta said: What kind of tank bag is that? Where can I get one? It looks like a great match! Thanks, VFV Click to expand...

Is there a special type of grease required for the axles and spacers? I ask because I have a tube of Honda Moly grease that's specified for the rear drive splines and wonder if I can use that. Thanks.  

Sticky please  

lonerockz said: :clap::clap::clap: Great write up! I may tackle this myself now! I assume that you had a shop mount and balance the new tires? How much did you save over them doing it for you? Steve Click to expand...

Bones said: Is there a special type of grease required for the axles and spacers? I ask because I have a tube of Honda Moly grease that's specified for the rear drive splines and wonder if I can use that. Thanks. Click to expand...

hacktracker said: Sticky please Click to expand...

Here is a tip for the rear wheel, mine seemed to have a tight tolerance. I struggled getting it back on but what I figured out is you need to "drop" in from the top. What I did was slide the rear wheel into the swingarm, put the chain on and lifted the wheel up so the axle hole was above the swing arm ends. The brake caliper mount was already in place. I then put the spacers in and worked the wheel downward into place. (You need to have the chain guard off to do this.)  

Awesome tutorial. I just replaced my original front at about 13,000. What I wonder is: I torqued everything on the front but should I have used loctite on the allen lock bolt or brake calipers?  

El Tig said: Awesome tutorial. I just replaced my original front at about 13,000. What I wonder is: I torqued everything on the front but should I have used loctite on the allen lock bolt or brake calipers? Click to expand...

Front caliper mounting bolts don't require locktite. Only 2 things do on the front and they are marked here with a L . Machog Wheels/Tires Front Axle 108 11.0 80 Front Axle Clamp Bolt 20 2.0 15 Rear Axle Nut 108 11.0 80 Final Drive Engine Sprocket Nut 125 12.7 92 MO Rear Axle Nut 108 11.0 80 Rear Sprocket Nuts 59 6.0 44 Speed Sensor Bolt 7.8 0.80 69 in·lb L Speed Sensor Bracket Bolts 9.8 1.0 87 in·lb Brakes Bleed Valve 7.8 0.80 69 in·lb Brake Hose Banjo Bolts 25 2.5 18 Brake Lever Pivot Bolt 1.0 0.10 9 in·lb Si Brake Lever Pivot Bolt Locknut 5.9 0.60 52 in·lb Front Brake Disc Mounting Bolts 27 2.8 20 L Front Brake Reservoir Cap Screws 1.5 0.15 13 in·lb Front Caliper Mounting Bolts 34 3.5 25 Front Master Cylinder Clamp Bolts 8.8 0.90 78 in·lb  

Thank you for the replies. I guess I just wanted a bit of reasurrance. This is a great site. I met a beemer rider saturday who also has a V with only about 1,000 miles on it and he felt the suspension was so harsh. I told him about how stiff it is set-up from the factory etc.. and recommended spending time on the site.  

Great piece--and pics! I'm in the market for a rear stand. What do you have, and do you like it? Can it be used on the front end, or do you need a special one for that? Thanks!  

jman said: Great piece--and pics! I'm in the market for a rear stand. What do you have, and do you like it? Can it be used on the front end, or do you need a special one for that? Thanks! Click to expand...

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Kawasaki ZG1200 Voyager (Voyager XII): review, history, specs

Class: tourer

Production: 1986-2003

Also called: Kawasaki Voyager 1200, Kawasaki Voyager XII

Predecessor: Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager XIII

Specifications

Kawasaki ZG1200 Voyager XII: specs.

Kawasaki ZG1200 Voyager XII: images, gallery.

Kawasaki ZG1200 Voyager XII: video.

Kawasaki ZG1200 Voyager XII: manuals, parts, microfiches.

• Kawasaki ZG1200 Voyager: Service Manual, 1986
• Kawasaki ZG1200 Voyager: Parts Catalog
• ↑ Motorcycle Consumer News (MCN) "Performance Index 2015" | Kawasaki Voyager XII (04/1999) | Average MPG
• ↑ Motorcycle Consumer News (MCN) "Performance Index 2015" | Kawasaki Voyager XII (04/1999) | 0-60 mph
• ↑ Motorcycle Consumer News (MCN) "Performance Index 2015" | Kawasaki Voyager XII (04/1999) | Top speed

How to Use the Voyager XII Center Stand

Color Codes & Colors for Motorcycles (Color-rite site)

Discharging Battery

Easier Battery Level Checking

Cassette Tapes Unwinding

Motorcycle Versus Auto Oils '94 M/C Consumer News

OEM Fuel Pump Point Reconditioning

Alternative Fuel Pump (2)

Sagging Rearview Mirrors

Alternate Way to Repair Sagging Mirrors

Broken Rear Speaker Mounts (Temp/Emergency Fix)

Broken Rear Speaker Mounts (More Permanent Fix)

Continental Tire Company Tips

Tire Safety

Winterizing Your Voyager

Alternator Rubber Dampener Inspection

CB/Radio Display Does Not Operate Correctly

Clarion Radio & CB Service Procedure

Alternate Voyager Radio & CB Service

Disconnecting Battery Sensor

Aftermarket Horn relay and wiring kit (Using Fiamm Freeway Blasters)

Intermittent headlight, gauges, other.

Brake Light Switches

Removing Voyager XII Radio (pdf file)

Typical Relay Layout

Relay Common Wiring

Changing the Spark Plugs

Temperature Gauge Fix

Air Filter Alternative

Balancer Gear Backlash

Carburetor Drain Screw and Idle Jet Locations

Carburetor Rebuild 101- Part 1 - Disassembly and Rebuild By Bill Overton

Carburetor Rebuild 101- Part 2 - Removal/ Installation of Carburetors By Bill Overton

Carburetor Rebuild 101- Part 3 - Synchronization of Carburetors By Bill Overton

Carburetor Remove & Install- Additional Items & Tips By Bruce Kauffman!

Carb - Enrichening the Needle Jet By Bruce Kauffman!

Carb - Adjusting the Pilot Jet By Bruce Kauffman!

Carb - Float Valve Replacement By Bruce Kauffman!

Recall: Clutch Back Torque Limiter (November 1999)

Starter Chain/Igniter

Oil Drain Plugs and Oil Filter Cover Locations 

Brakes- Spongy

Front Fork Oil

Installing Progressive Fork Springs

Kuryakyn Grip Install

Sticking, Dragging or Moaning Front Brake

Speedometer Error

SuperBrace Installation

Final Drive Vent Location

Sticking,  Dragging, or moaning Rear Brake (same as for Front Brake)

Rear Tire Change

Instrument Panel Light Dimmer Switch Thanks to Bruce Kaufman!

Rear Top Trunk Lens Paint Removal & Addl. Lighting Thanks to Bruce Kaufman!

Accents - Fairing and Saddlebags

Armrests- Passenger

Chrome Caliper Covers (Thanks to Gary Breeden)

Clarion/Kawasaki OEM CB Installation (Thanks to Bill Overton)

Drivers Backrest

Disc Cover Front

Fender Extension Front

Fender Extension Rear

Fender Trim Front w/light

Floorboard Cover Plates

Floorboards-Driver

Fork Leg Lights

License Plate Panel

Light Bar- Mount

Lighted Switch Assy.

Markland Hitch Installation Submitted by Bill Overton

Mudflap- Rear w/light

Radiator Dress-Up (Economical )

Installing Rivco© Air Horns

Rear View Mirror Chrome Visor Trim Submitted by Richard Miller

Saddlebag Lid Trim Rails

Saddlebag Rails

Saddlebag Trim Rails

Splash Guards

Trunk Lid Trim Rails

Trunk Pouch- Right

Trunk Rails

Trunk Rails Trim Light Submitted by Eugene Shields

Vent Accents- Fairing

Y-Cord Kawasaki/Clarion (will also work for J&M- diagram incl.)

Note: In order to view most of these files, you must have Adobe Acrobat Reader installed on your computer- don't have it?

Keeping Music Tapes Tight From AVA Member Archives By Ed Cones

     After a short while, cassette tapes will "unwind" in the Voyager tape storage compartment and have to be rewound before you play them or they could get fowled in the tape player. Ed submitted two methods for keeping his tapes tight enough to play without having to re-wind them after storage before playing.       "I've used foam earplugs in my tapes since I got the bike. They work well, Just roll 'em down like you're at the shooting range except stick  them in the tape." He also experimented during a long cycle trip and came up with the following: "If the tape is rewound completely or almost completely, looking at them from the rear of the bike, the large spool turns clockwise. So, I rewind my tapes before removing them from the player and place them in the storage compartment with the full spool down and the open side of the tape to the right or center of the bike. The clockwise movement of the large spool keeps them tight. This has worked great on my bike for 10,000 miles now."

Recall Notice Clutch Back Torque Limiter Warning Dated November 1999

     "Kawasaki Motors Corp., USA has determined that a defect which relates to motor vehicle safety exists in 1999 and 2000 model Ninja ZX-7R, Concours, and Voyager XII motorcycles. On eligible units, the back torque limiter in the clutch may malfunction and allow the clutch to slip, or not re-engage after a shift. This sudden non-engagement of the clutch might cause the rider to lose control of the vehicle, possibly resulting in an accident and personal injury."      This notice was probably delivered to all owners for the years and models mentioned above, but anyone purchasing a used cycle should check to verify that this safety defect was corrected. Owners previously unaware of the defect should contact the nearest Kawasaki dealer for further details.

Battery Sensor From the AVA Archives

     It seems as though quite a few times the question has been raised on how to disable the battery sensor on the VII so the battery light stays out. Some basic observations for the unknowing should first be considered:

The battery lights purpose is to indicate that the battery electrolyte or water level is low in the battery. This is handy so you don't need to check the level so many times during the riding season since it's not the quickest thing to do.

The battery light has nothing to do with the quality or life left of the battery, other than letting you know the water level is low. If the water level in a battery is left low, it will cause sulfation in the battery cells and lead to pre-mature battery failure.

Most manufacturers make at least two versions of a battery that will work for the Voyagers, one with, and one without the battery sensor. Some of the newest batteries such as the gel batteries, or a maintenance free battery, prevents you from adding water by design. If you would like the convenience of the battery sensor and want to use the standard non-maintenance free batteries, then buy the ones with a sensor. If you get a maintenance free battery, then you don't need to worry about that option and will probably just pay a higher price for the battery.

     So after you decide which battery you would like to use, and have decided on a gel, maintenance free, or simply one without a sensor hookup, then you probably will want to disable the sensor by simply connecting the sensor lead to a +12 volt source. This can be done by either using one of the spare leads under the fairing, or simply connecting it to the +12 volt terminal of your battery. Others have suggested to hook a 100 ohm resistor in line with the original wire going to the battery and terminate it at the positive battery terminal.

Changing the XII Spark Plugs By Ed Cones from AVA Archives

     Changing out or cleaning the spark plugs on the Voyager XII is not a slam dunk, easy job. It can be made easier, however, if the battery and battery tray are removed. The Voyager XII comes with a tool pack that contains a spark plug tool. Using the tool with an extension and a pair of long needle nose pliers to reach the plug wire caps makes the job a bit easier.      Please remember to clear the plug area with air pressure before removing the plugs. Each of the plug locations will collect bits of stone, dried bugs, and other debris. It must be cleared in order that the contaminants do not fall into the spark plug hole when the plugs are removed.

Temperature Gauge Fix From AVA Archives

     It has been reported that several have had problems with the Voyager XII water temperature gauge reading either low or not at all. It has been traced to an inadequate ground. The fix for this involves checking the grounding for this gauge. You can make a small ground wire to run from a thermostat housing (which contains the temperature sender) bolt up to a 6mm bolt in the frame just behind the steering head, or another good grounding point.

Intermittent Electrical Problem (headlight, gauges, brake and tail) From the AVA Archives By Denny Zion

Problem: Occasional loss of headlight, fuel and temperature gauge readings, as well as tachometer, brake and tail lights. Interruptions usually occur periodically. Loss could become more numerous as time goes on. Fuses appear or check out OK. Solution : More times than not, a problem exists with the large connector just after the fuse block. Possibly caused by excess water or dampness otherwise getting into this connection. The electrical connection within this connector (plug) becomes corroded to the point that it makes intermittent contact with it's opposite pin that powers these items. Disconnect this plug and thoroughly clean all the pins on both sides of the connector. A good electrical cleaner should do the trick (such as electrical contact cleaner at a electronics store, or comparable). After all contacts or pins are cleaned, a good application of electrical anti-corrosive grease (usually for aluminum cable- available at electrical contractor stores) should prevent this from happening again.

Brake Light Switches From the AVA Archives By BJ Reynolds

Problem: The front or rear brake switch fails to activate the brake light when the lever or foot brake is applied. Solution: Loose spade connector(s) may be the problem. A slight crimping of the connectors should take care of the problem. It is suggested that you frequently check both the lever and foot brakes to make sure they are activating the brake lights as they should.

Clarion Radio or CB Service Procedure

Clarion no longer services the Voyager XII radios or CB's.

However, there are still two outlets where service can still be obtained at this time. The first outlet we recommend is service and modifications provided by Peter Franchi. He can be contacted through his email by clicking here. He can also be contacted through his username (suzib6sw) on the AVA Message and Information forum here .

The other source of service is noted below.

Sierra Electronics does repair the radios and CB's from Voyagers XII's!

As of 2/17/09, they indicated that they had a 2-week turnaround from date of receipt of the radio or CB.  The typical cost for a repair on either component is $100.  When you send it in, they will go through it and when they have a firm price, they will contact you for a credit card to pay for the repairs.  If there is anything excessive, they will let you know BEFORE doing the work.

Their contact information is:

  Sierra Electronics   2080 Experiment Farm Road, Troy, OH  45373   800-338-6938  /  937-335-8939

  [email protected]

For more details on packaging the radio or to confirm turnaround time, contact them directly.

Easier Battery Level Checking By Chuck Tenwick From AVA Archives

Problem: Finding an easier way to check battery electrolyte level without having to remove battery to see level lines and associated having to disconnect battery leads etc. to do so. Solution: The normal level checking lines which are on the front of the battery are not easily read since they face the front of the motorcycle, therefore, Chuck suggests that the next time you have your battery out, to draw a line on the back side of the battery with a magic marker indicating where the full level line is for the electrolyte solution. This way, a quick look with the dummy tank off is all that is needed to know where your level is in the battery. He also mentions that he wads up a small piece of paper to stuff under the nuts for the terminal bolts. The wads act as springs to hold the nuts in place when starting the terminal bolts.

Broken Rear Speaker Mounts- Temporary/Emergency Fix By Tommy James From the AVA Archives

     If the problem is the metal plate separating from the rubber bushing, place a small drop of super glue type adhesive between the metal plate and rubber bushing. This fix will work just fine without any problems. Make sure the metal plate and mating surface of rubber bushing is clean- even of previously used super glue if broke before, then apply glue and lower bushing onto it. Weight of speaker should hold it firmly enough until cured. Allow at least several minutes before riding off to allow sufficient cure. Also, avoid any oversize packed touring bags placed on the luggage rack that may tend to spread apart the speakers.- Gary, Webmaster

Broken Rear Speaker Mounts- Permanent Fix Original Solution By Bob Hughes Rewritten and Photos added By Gary Schill and Lori Norris

Using Bob Hughes' original article for fixing broken speaker mounts more permanently, we have expanded the instructions and included photos.  Bob reports that this repair has proven successful for the last 60,000 miles and 6 years of terrible Michigan roads around the Detroit area.  

Another Alternative Fuel Pump Suggestion By David Randall

In case you cannot get the fuel pump that Jeff talks about above, NAPA does have an electric fuel pump that will work. It is part number 610-1051, Posi-Flo model. It comes with an add on filter that goes between tank and pump, and all the fittings, but not any extra fuel line. You will need a little extra to to locate the Voyager original fuel filter and to add a little between pump and tank. This pump is set 1.5-4 PSI two wire design, neat and small, will mount on the regular mounting bracket that the Voyager pump is now on (with just a little rigging). It also will let you relocate the fuel filter so you can change it easier. Instead of using the long fuel line adapter that goes in the outlet end, use an elbow first, then, the adapter. Use the info Jeff provides about wiring the pump. I used the red hot wire and ground Jeff talks about, but did not cut the original plug off. Be sure to mount the back as far as you can on the original mount so the rear brake reservoir will remount with no trouble. AFter installing the pump and before putting everything back in place, I checked to make sure that everything would fit back i place just like factory. Turn the key on, wait just a minute to let it prime up. Instant start and very little gas fumes. Down the street and back, using all the throttle I could, yielded very good throttle response and very smooth running at last. Total cost for pump and supplies are $60.00 (as of 11/18/07), much better than the OEM at $175 for a new pump.

Discharging Battery By Gary Schill

Problem: The battery seems to discharge over about a 2 to 3 week period just sitting in the garage until it won't start the motorcycle. "It seemed OK when I first parked it, but a few weeks later, it wouldn't turn the bike over". Solution: On the Voyagers, there is a constant drain on the battery even when sitting idle, this is because the memory in the radio, clock, and if so equipped, the CB take a little electric to maintain their settings. Even if your battery is fully charged when you park your bike for a extended idle time without riding much, the battery can easily become discharged enough to not start your machine in a couple or so weeks. This is normal. This constant discharge and then charging when you do ride your bike can cause sulfation of the battery plates, and eventually or prematurely your battery will die. To best combat this sulfation of the battery plates and keep your machine ready to ride, you should invest in a "smart" battery charger. The two most well known brands are the Battery Tender and the Battery Minder, although there are other brands manufactured. You can simply hook up the usually provided ring terminal battery cables to your bikes battery, and when you park your bike for any amount of time, just plug it in to the battery charger. You can leave the charger connected indefinitely until you are ready to ride again, then just disconnect the polarized connector, and you'll have a fully charged battery ready to go. The charger goes to maintenance or standby mode until the battery needs a charge to keep in top condition. This reduces drastically the sulfation problem, and you always have a fully charged battery ready to ride.

Starter Chain/Igniter By Charlie Sargent

Problem: The starter chain breaks. Solution: This problem was present in the Voyager XII model years of '86 and '87. It would usually occur when a discharged or failing battery was used to start the machine. If you own an '86 or '87 Voyager XII, it is recommended that you check to be sure you have the updated igniter to prevent this problem, replacement of the starter chain with the updated one may or may not be necessary.  Also, keep your battery (all year Voyagers too) fully charged and in good condition. The following information was provided by Charlie Sargent who experienced this problem and it's solution first hand- THANKS SARGE!!

"There have been 86's/87's that broke the starter chain tensioner and tossed a chunk of it through the engine cases. A few common traits among all the starter chain failures are, all were '86/87' models, which had the old starter chain (p/n 92057-1205). There was an update to a newer chain (p/n 92057-1276), 1986/1987 had the old-style igniter (p/n 21119-1179), which had problems with over-advancing the ignition timing. The new style igniter is (p/n 21119-1248) you can check which igniter you have by removing the tank cover and check the part number on the igniter box. All machines that experienced failures seemed to have had low batteries that cranked the machine over slowly sometimes and then turn over normal other times. (It put a lot of stress on the starter chain until it failed.)"

Installing Progressive Fork Springs By Gary Schill

OK, you've decided your front fork springs are sacked out, or would like the best performance and ride of the Progressive springs. You might think all you have to do is take the old OEM's out and replace with the Progressive's, but there is a difference in the springs that will require you to change the re-assembly process. The process of changing springs (as well as fork oil) is not all that hard, but is more difficult than changing either one on some other bikes. So here's the process:

The fork springs you need are Progressive Part No. 11-1102 for '87 thru '03, ( 1986 Voyager XII's use Progressive Part No. 11-1122), these are Progressive's numbers, it may be listed under a different part number depending on the dealer or distributors numbering system- check their listing for the Voyager XII. This spring ( Part No. 11-1102) also fits several other machines (some will require a spacer to adapt). Following is the machines that also take this spring:

* Note: 1986 Voyager XII's use different Progressive Springs since the stanchion tube diameter was different in the first year of Voyager XII production.

Process of spring installation:

Remove front brake calipers, speedometer cable from front wheel receiver.

Release all air from front suspension.

Remove front wheel, fork brace, and front fender.

Loosen top triple clamp bolt on one of the forks.

Completely remove the lowest bolt on the bottom triple clamp on the same fork with a wrench (box or open end).

Loosen the top bolt of the bottom triple clamp.

While holding the connecting pipe collar up, rotate the fork tube and begin lowering it in the triple clamps. (See photo 1)

Before you can remove the fork tube completely from the bottom triple clamp, you must first remove the retaining ring ( D in the photo), on the fork tube upper. This retaining ring will become visible after you lower the fork tube from the top triple clamp. You can remove it by using a slot screwdriver or other tool to expand the ring and lift it off the top of the upper fork tube- be careful you do not bend it.

After you remove this retaining ring, remove the fork tube from the motorcycle.

Remove the top black plastic fork tube cap.

Now the tricky part, it's best to have a vise and a friend to help you with this one, but can be done by yourself with a little patience, muscle, (and maybe some colorful "french").

Wrap a rag for good cushioning around the upper fork tube 3 or 4 inches from the top, or better yet, use about a 3 or 4 inch wide strip from an old rubber inner tube and long enough to make about 3 wraps around the fork upper tube, and carefully place it in the vise, only tighten the vise enough to securely hold the fork tube from slipping down when pressure is applied to the top plug of the fork tube, not so much as to even begin to collapse the fork tube ( make sure there enough cushioning to prevent any marking on the fork tube and do not over tighten the vise). Test to make sure the fork tube will not slip.

Then by yourself, or with a friend's help, press down on the top plug of the fork tube, and, then remove the retaining ring to allow the top plug to come out of the fork tube. (See photo below) Be careful to gradually release the downward pressure as the top plug will have spring pressure on it.

Remove top plug, oil filter, collar, and fork spring.

Remove fork assy. from the vise, remove the bottom drain plug on the fork assy. lower, and drain the fork oil by pumping the fork tube several times until oil is all out. (Observation: what color is the fork oil? Does it look like well used (black) engine oil? If so, you waited too long to change the fork oil!)

It is suggested that you clean out the fork internals before installing new oil. I did this by using clean paint thinner and continually flushing it until it came out clear (put some in, pump the fork several times, drain- repeat). Do not use gasoline, lacquer thinner, or other strong solvent (example: auto paint thinners).

When you are convinced that you have the fork internals clean, then you are ready for reassembly, make sure you have all of the paint thinner or equivalent drained from the fork.

Fully compress the fork and support it so it stands up straight. Before you install the new fork springs, you must add the required amount of oil. As mentioned under the tech tip "Front Fork Oil", the best way to bring the oil up to the required level for the Voyager is to measure from the top edge of the fork inner tube to the top of the oil level (it should measure 145mm for Progressive Springs, 140 for stock OEM springs). Use some kind of measuring tool or improvise to accomplish this, I used a heavy plastic zip tie, and put a piece of tape 145 mm from the tip of the tie. I lowered the straight zip tie into the fork inner tube till the tape lightly touched the fork tube. I then added oil till the fork oil just showed on the zip tie. Note: Progressive recommends 160mm ± 2mm of oil level. Carl Leo has determined that 145mm air gap works best for Progressive springs in the Voyager XII (1200). I had originally used the 160mm air gap level, and found that it was not enough oil. Use the 145mm air gap measurement .

Now, reinstall the fork assy. into the vise again like before, install the new Progressive springs. Now for the difference between the stock fork springs and the Progressives'. On the Voyager XII's, you DO NOT reinstall the collar or oil filter like it was when using the OEM springs. The Progressive springs are longer than OEMs and do not require these parts. All you'll be installing is the new fork springs followed by the top plug, then the retaining ring.

Now with an assistant's help (preferred), or if doing by yourself, you need to reinstall the top plug, hold the top plug down as before and reinstall the retaining clip.

Now reinstall the fork assy. back onto the motorcycle. After you get it through the bottom triple clamp, reinstall the retaining ring back onto the inner fork tube, See photo 1.

Next, by slightly rotating the inner fork tube back and forth, guide it back up through the Connecting pipe (air equalizing collar) and then up into the upper triple clamp. Tighten all triple clamp bolts. Reinstall black plastic fork tube caps.

Complete steps 4 thru 22 for the other fork assy.

Then reinstall the front fender, fork brace, front tire, speedometer cable, and brake calipers.

Your Done and ready to ride!!

Water Leak By John Stone MTSV

Problem: Water leak on the Voyager XII while in winter storage. This clears up once the riding season starts. The leak comes from one side of the horizontal pipe in front of engine (like a manifold) with two steel lines running into it coupled by a small length of hose with hose fittings on them. There are two possible answers: Solution: 1. Dealer suggests endure the first few leaky experiences into spring and ride it the rest of the summer once the leaks stop. Alternative is to replace seals that dry out in winter, costs about $100.00.   2. This comes from Alex Mistal in Redding CA: Same problem but his leak came from loose hose clamps. Most of the hose clamps can be tightened without removing any plastic, but the ones on the top can only be reached if you remove the false tank, battery, and battery case. Still a job that the average biker should be able to accomplish without too much difficulty.

Protecting Fork Seals By Chuck Hoefflin

  I had some difficulty with the fork seals on one of my BMW's due to hardened bugs that were stuck on the fork tubes and damaged the fork seals. I found a Yamaha sport bike that had a plastic protector that I could adapt. I used that arrangement for the rest of the time I owned the bike. When I bought my Voyager, the same problem exists. The fork tube is exposed. So I modified fork protectors from a Yamaha 4TX-2331G-00 to do the job. For reference, they are 3 5/8" high, plenty to protect the exposed surface of the fork tubes. I had to modify them for clearance around the stock fork brace- a five minute job. Cost: less than $5 per side.

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1700 Voyager easy shock removal

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There has been some concern on how to remove the rear shocks when it comes time to remove the rear tire. For all you DIY kinda guys/gals.... First thing.... disregard most of what the shop manual tells you to do... When you have everything off that needs to come off. Mufflers, saddlebags, axle nut removed, caliper removed including the bracket holding the hose, small jack under the tire. Remove the front and rear seat. Remove the phillips screw from under the seat, and the 3 4mm trim bolts. Pull on the trim and put a two or 3 inch block of wood at the end to hold it back. Now there is lots of room to get on that top 17mm shock acorn. Be mindful of the air valvw when wrenching. I place a small floor jack under the tire and raise it just enough to get the stress off the shocks. The yank them out. I then lower the tire down to where the swing arm bottoms out then raise it back up about an inch. Then pull the axle out, lower the jack all the way down, roll the tire forward where it rolls off the jack forward and that's it. The reason I take off that little wire bracket holding the caliper line is because sometimes when the tire rolls forward it yanks the caliper down with it and puts stress on the line if it was still attached. Slip belt to the LEFT side (as you are facing the tire sitting behind it) over the pulley. WIll have to roll it forward a little to do this. Remove tire. I slide and angle it out the pulley side. But either side will do. Remove the pulley and inspect the damper pads in place for wear or tear. Removed them too. Don't want to lose one transporting the wheel around. Thats it. This Voyager, is probably the easiest rear wheel removal on any scoot I have had, even inclusing removing the shocks...  

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Bubba in TX said: ..... When you have everything off that needs to come off. Mufflers, saddlebags, axle nut removed, caliper removed including the bracket holding the hose, small jack under the tire. Remove the front and rear seat. ... Click to expand...

Mine was for rear tire removal..... the axle nut needs to come off at some point.... mufflers to get to everything easier. Only takes a minute to take those off. Also when you have the tire removed and the swing arm goes down and stops.... because it hits the top of the emissions control box which is made of plastic. So be careful when you let that swing arm down. Don't just let it fall.  

Good write up! Thank you!  

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