city state travel singapore

I grew up in Singapore and have lived here all my life — here's my complete guide to visiting the island-state

• Growing up in Singapore, I experienced a melting pot of cultures, languages, and experiences.
• Here's my ultimate guide to everything to do, see, and try while visiting the unique island-state.
• Visit Insider's hub for travel guides, tips, and recommendations .

Before memes were a thing, there was a visual that floated around Singapore's digital space for a while. It read: "Dey, wǒ men paktor always makan at kopitiam one," which translates to "Hey, when we go on a date, we always eat at the coffee shop." If you're struggling to make sense of the original sentence, that's because it's pure Singlish — a unique blend of the languages and dialects spoken in Singapore. The same visual breaks it down: "dey" is Tamil; "wǒ men" is the Hanyu Pinyin for "我们, aka "we"; "paktor" is Cantonese; "makan" and "kopi" are Malay; and "tiam" is Hokkien/Hakka. That sums up Singapore and the experiences you can expect when you visit this unique island state.

I was born and grew up in Singapore, and have lived here all my life in various areas, from the heartlands of Toa Payoh to the country's only legal red-light district of Geylang. I've also spent many years of my professional life being a lifestyle writer dedicated to uncovering things to see, eat, and do in Singapore.

With four official languages and locals and transplants alike speaking many more, Singapore is a vibrant melting pot of culture. Growing up here as the product of a cross-cultural marriage, I celebrated most of the cultural events and festivals, from Chinese New Year to Deepavali and Christmas, and always had a variety of Chinese, Indian, Malay, and Eurasian dishes on my dining table.

Then there are the modern layers of bustling Singapore — for such a young nation, at just 57 years old, it's very technology-driven, so many of its systems, attractions, and buildings look futuristic. With intense tropical weather, the Lion City is also very green — Singapore's National Parks board estimated that in 2020, just under 50% of Singapore's land was covered in green space, with a tree-canopy cover of nearly 30% , making it one of the greenest cities in the world.

There's lots to see and do, from sampling food from across Asia to popping by unique ethnic quarters and meeting locals with a wonderful mix of backgrounds. Here's my complete guide as a local to all the best places to stay, eat, explore, and more for planning your Singapore itinerary. 

Explore Insider's guide to visiting Singapore.

→ How to get to Singapore by land, sea, or air, plus a local's tips for using public transit and taxi services

→ where to stay in singapore, recommended by a local — the best hotels, hostels, and more, → 10 of the best restaurants and places to eat authentic food in singapore, → 9 unique adventures and activities to do in singapore, from lush wetland hikes to a nighttime ghost tour, → what to know before traveling to singapore — the latest covid-19 regulations, weather advisories, and when to visit.

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Citystate Group is a diversified group established in Singapore since 1987. Our portfolio of leading brands is organised into five business segments.

Cosmopolis Holdings Pte Ltd operates three award-winning Japanese restaurants in Singapore for more than 30 years.

Citystate Travel Holdings Pte Ltd operates travel agencies in Singapore, China, Hong Kong & Malaysia.

Headquartered in Singapore with insurance underwriting and brokering services in Hong Kong, China, India & Indonesia.

International Shoppers Pte Ltd is the holding company for our food import & distribution, brand representation and central kitchen operations.

Julia Gabriel  Group currently operates pre-schools, kindergartens and speech, drama & literacy enrichment centres in Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia & China.

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Discover the REAL Singapore on our Historical Singapore route.Visit a typical residential town and watch the people go about their daily lives. Check out a market frequented by locals. Eat like a Singaporean; sample local snacks and drinks at a ‘coffeeshop’. See old and new HDB (public housing), as well as multi-million dollar riverfront ones.We […]

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Take the road less travelled and tell your friends, ‘I’ve been to Singapore.’The tour is curated along the line of a crafted story of Tan Ah Huat; his entrepreneur life, his friends, his passion, and his love. As we cycle through the Trail of Tan Ah Huat, visitors will get to understand the contrasts of the […]

Overnight cruising is the best way to experience Halong Bay. The most popular is a 2-day, 1-night cruise, which is just enough time for travellers to experience the beauty of the bay with a range of fascinating excursions. With a 3-day, 2- night cruise, guests travel deeper into the bay and visit more “off the […]

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Bible Land Tours

Experience the Bible, feel the Story 

Walk the path of Jesus Christ or feel the weight of history as you take in the splendour of churches built before the fall of Rome. 

Journey to where it all started with Citystate Travel Bible Land Tours.

Journey to where it all started with Citystate Travel: Bible Land Tours.

Our packages are flexible and customized to suit your budgets and your needs.

A Journey of Faith You Will Remember

Walk in the Footsteps of Jesus VISIT ISRAEL

7 Churches in Revelations VISIT TURKEY

Experience the Apostles’ Journey VISIT GREECE

testimonials

I want to give thanks to God for allowing and making it possible for a group of us to visit the Holy Land, Israel with the orderly running of the program by Citystate Travel.

LIGHTHOUSE EVANGELISM, TAMPINES

It is just so awesome seeing the Bible in real life. Now when I read the Bible, I can relate to it so much better. It is “a dream come true” for me to be able to visit Jerusalem and Bethlehem.

GRACE ASSEMBLY OF GOD

Shirley has been a great help to the pastors and pilgrims. She is meticulous and has ensured that all arrangements during the Pilgrimage are well organized.

You have a great asset in Shirley and I believe she will continue to be in the coming years.

PASTOR David Chng, Trinity Christian Centre

The trip to Israel in November was the best yet for me and my fellow pilgrims. An outstanding success which could not have been possible without you and Citystate Travel. I am blessed to have engaged your company for 3 trips to Israel and 1 to Turkey since 2008. Only fond memories remain with me. A company is gauged by its people and their competency, in planning and delivery. And in both areas, you excelled. More importantly, my people can relax and enjoy the tours and I can focus on the spiritual aspects. I look forward to many more years of ‘partnership’ with you and Citystate.

Elder Leong, Bethesda Cathedral

PASTOR DAVID CHNG, TRINITY CHRISTIAN CENTRE

ELDER LEONG, BETHESDA CATHEDRAL

Dive into the pages of bible history

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VISIT ISRAEL

Israel, Jordan & Egypt

16 Days / 13 Nights

PETRA Governorate, Jordan . It was named as one of the new 7 wonders of the Wolrd in 2007.

MOUNT NEBO. On this mountain in biblical Moab (Western Jordan), the LORD showed Moses the Promised Land (Deu 34:1-3)

Israel & Jordan

14 Days / 11 Nights

EIN GEDI. Prophesied to be one of the places by the Dead Sea where fishermen will cast their nets. (Eze 47:10)

DEAD SEA. The lowest point on earth at some 400m below sea level, it will one day support life! (Eze 47:10)

QUMRAN. The 2000-year-old Dead Sea scrolls were discovered in caves by a Bedouin boy in 1947.

BEIT SHEAN. One of the great Decapolis cities, where Jesus taught. (Mk 7:21)

VISIT TURKEY

Eastern Turkey

13 Days / 10 Nights

TARSUS. The romantic meeting between Cleopatra and Mark Anthony took place here.

EUPHRATES. Is the name of one of Eden's four river heads (Gen 2:14).

Seven Churches

PHILADELPHIA.  An important Christian centre during Byzantine times, it is another of the seven churches (Rev 3:7) named in the book Revelation.

SARDIS felt the influence of Christianity very early and is listed among the seven churches of Revelation (Rev 3:1). Its history dates back to 12th century BC.

VISIT GREECE

Greece (Land & Cruise)

12 Days / 9 Nights

PATMOS.  The island where Jesus revealed Himself to the apostle John in a vision. (Rev 1:9)

PORT OF RHODES.  Marvel at the breathtaking views of St. Paul’s bay, where the apostle cast anchor having sailed from Ephesus and Cos. (Acts 21:1)

The Most Underrated Things to Do in Singapore, Day or Night

Do you travel for food? Do you live for that perfect back-alley oyster omelette that is not only perfectly crispy but also tells the story of the Southeast Asian diaspora in one bite? How about ‘gramming a caviar-spiked short-rib whilst sipping a painstakingly made martini? You can do it all in Singapore. The Lion City is home to some of the world’s best street food—yet it's also an epicenter for some of the most boundary-pushing, high-end restaurants and innovative cocktail bars in the world.

Originally a small fishing village that gave way to British colonization, and later, large-scale Chinese and Indian immigration melding with the Indigenous Malay, Singapore’s growth and cultural flux can be taken in at every turn. From each neighborhood’s unique personality and architecture to the bustling coffee shops and boutique artisans, Singapore’s urban-density-to-rich-history ratio makes it the ultimate destination for those of us who just want to walk around and see where the city takes them.

Today, Singapore is taking bold steps to lead the way worldwide on conservation and sustainability . As an island with a population of over 5 million, where 90% of produce is imported along with much of the nation’s water, conservation isn't an abstract—it’s existential. Go to Singapore now to see the world’s urban future taking shape, seen most obviously in huge, eye-popping urban green spaces that run on solar-powered “Supertrees,” or a 130-foot indoor waterfall—the world’s largest—that uses recycled rainwater. But conservation is also at work on the ground level—rooftop farming, hotels with zero carbon footprint , and food waste inventively repurposed in cocktail bars.

Between the history, sustainability and innovation, and top-tier food, discovery never ends in Singapore. Below you’ll find all the best things to do, places to eat, and parks and neighborhoods to explore to make the most of your visit.

Best places for first timers to visit in Singapore

Spying Singapore’s unique architecture is one of those must-do tourist activities that even a local will gladly come along for. Head to Marina Bay and hit up the SkyPark Observation Deck to take in the sprawling views of the bay and Singapore’s city skyline, or get a seat on Singapore Flyer , one of the world’s largest ferris wheels at 550 feet.

Where to eat and drink like a local in Singapore

Have your breakfast singaporean style, eat your way through the famed hawker stalls.

Try Maxwell Food Centre in Chinatown, where stalls sling prepared foods that reflect Singapore’s Chinese influence. Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice is one of the most famous hawker dishes thanks to Michelin and Anthony Bourdain’s endorsement—but the line is often long, and since the original team is no longer intact thanks to a spat, many locals feel it’s lost its luster. Ignore the hype, skip the line, and head to the end of the row for Uncle Sky Singapore Hainanese Chicken Rice for a tastier, under-the-radar bowl of one of Singapore’s most iconic dishes. Plus, you’ll be supporting a great cause. While the stall itself is modest, once a week Uncle Sky provides free chicken rice to any elderly Singaporeans in need of a hot meal, and even uses a network of friends to deliver to those who are unable to leave their homes.

Another option is Tekka Centre in Little India for Whampoa prawn noodles, ice-cold chendol, and mee goreng. This is a mixture of purveyors and food stalls from Singapore’s Indian population, not to mention home to some of the best Mamak in the city: A unique style of cuisine born of the mixture of Muslim Indian and Malay that’s as Singaporean as it gets in the form of flaky roti canai, fish head curries, and fragrant mounds of banana leaf-wrapped rice.

Get fancy with fine-dining restaurants and world-class cocktail bars

Get to know Singapore’s famous cocktail culture at Native for tipples made with hyper-regional ingredients, go OG with Jigger & Pony , or feel like Gatsby at Atlas Bar . For more exploration, take a drive to Brass Lion Distillery , where you can make your own bottle of Singapore’s favorite spirit, gin.

Underrated Singapore neighborhoods you can’t miss

About 15% of Singaporeans are Muslims from South Asia (mostly Malaysian as well as Indonesian), and you’ll see that influence in the Arab Quarter, anchored by the impressive Masjid Sultan Mosque , which you can visit and tour. Just a block away, take a walk down Haji Lane for ultra-cool vintage shops and brightly colored murals. Vibrant, colorful, and historic—but also hip and newly energized by a younger crowd—the Arab Quarter is a great place to shop and rub shoulders with merchants who will be more than happy to draw you into conversation.

Little India is a showcase for Singapore’s ethnic Indian population—itself incredibly diverse, with a mix of languages, religions (Hindu being the largest portion), and classes represented. The aforementioned Tekka Centre is a main draw, but there is more to explore, including Hindu and Buddhist temples. Walk down Serangoon Road and take in the historic, colorful, Instagram-worthy markets and restaurants.

Outside of these three centers, Tiong Bahru may be Singapore’s trendiest ‘hood and is worth a stroll to find modern galleries, scenester vinyl stores, art deco tea houses, lust-worthy décor shops, and the hip bakery, Plain Vanilla .

History and culture in Singapore

Get lost in museums.

For something a bit more niche, check out the Peranakan Museum , where the history of this distinctly Singaporean community extends beyond food. The only museum dedicated to Peranakan culture in the world, this can't-miss institution houses artifacts related to the history of Peranakan identity, including fashion, furniture, and contemporary art.

Experience the Lion City at night

The Singapore Zoo lays claim to the world’s first nocturnal wildlife park, Night Safari . Sit in the comfort of a tram, or embark on a walking path and ogle at elephants and tigers in what looks like their natural habitat. Instead of using cages, the wildlife reserve makes use of naturalistic enclosures, so the only thing separating visitors from the animals are things like cattle grids and moats.

If you fancy a bit of theater, check out Wild Rice , an expansive performing arts theater located, funnily enough, inside Funan shopping center. The theater company puts on some of the most cutting-edge works, mainly written and performed by Singaporean artists. And for an unexpected hotspot of jazz music, pay a visit to Blue Jaz Cafe located in the ever-buzzing Arab quarter.

Spend a day at the... airport

Singapore hotels and other great places to stay, what to know before you go to singapore, best times of year to visit, singapore time zone, the weather and climate, how to get around, the currency, international adaptors you’ll need.

Hillary Eaton  is a food and travel writer based in Los Angeles. You can find her featured in  The New York Times  and  Stuff  or read her work at  Food & Wine ,  Bon Appetit ,  Playboy ,  Travel + Leisure ,  Los Angeles Times , and beyond. Follow along with her food and travel adventures on Instagram: @hilleaton

Jessica Sulima  is a staff writer on the Travel team at Thrillist. Follow her on  Twitter  and  Instagram .

Update April 12, 2024

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In Singapore, you may be taken in for questioning if you don’t have your passport with you. Travelers should be aware of the following penalties for certain crimes in Singapore:

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Singaporean authorities may arrest and convict any permanent residents of Singapore even if they have consumed illegal drugs outside of Singapore.

Singapore does not recognize dual nationality beyond the age of 22, and it strictly enforces universal national service for all male citizens and permanent residents. To determine if you have a national service obligation, contact the  Ministry of Defense.

Drunk and disorderly conduct can lead to a SG$1,000 fine or imprisonment. It is illegal to drink alcohol in a public place between 10:30 pm and 7:00 am. The areas of Geylang and Little India are designated as “Liquor Control Zones” where drinking in public places is prohibited all weekend, on public holidays, and on the eve of public holidays.

Public Demonstrations:  Public demonstrations are legal only at Speakers’ Corner in Hong Lim Park. Most outdoor public assemblies require a police permit. Singapore forbids foreign nationals who do not have permanent resident status from participating in or observing permitted public demonstrations, assemblies, and processions at Speakers’ Corner. Penalties may be severe, including large fines and/or imprisonment.

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LGBTI Travelers:  Singapore does not recognize same-sex unions. The Penal Code criminalizes any “act of gross indecency” between two men and prescribes a sentence not exceeding two years for those found guilty under this law. The Singaporean government has stated that it will not enforce this section of the Penal Code but it remains on the statute books. The government restricts foreigners from involvement in public events that champion LGBTI issues. LGBTI individuals may have difficulty gaining employment in certain sectors of the civil service. The  Ministry of Manpower  does not issue dependent passes (work permits) to partners in lesbian and gay relationships, even if legally married in another country.

See our  LGBTI Travel Information  page and section 6 of our  Human Rights report  for further details.

Travelers with Disabilities: The law in Singapore does not explicitly prohibit discrimination against persons with disabilities. Social acceptance of persons with disabilities in public is as prevalent as in the United States. The most common types of accessibility include accessible facilities, information, and access to services. Expect accessibility to be common in public transportation, lodging, communication/information, and general infrastructure.

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Criminal Penalties:  You are subject to local laws. If you violate local laws, even unknowingly, you may be expelled, arrested, imprisoned, or even caned. 

Furthermore, some laws are also prosecutable in the U.S., regardless of local law. For examples, see our website on  crimes against minors abroad  and the  Department of Justice  website.

• Possible arrest for jaywalking, littering, or spitting
• Mandatory caning (a form of corporal punishment) for certain vandalism offenses
• Possible imprisonment, caning, or fines for immigration violations
• Possible imprisonment, caning or fines for sex crimes or sexually inappropriate behavior. Lewd, unwanted behavior, including inappropriate comments, messages, or photography toward women who find it offensive may result in fines and imprisonment (“Insulting the modesty of woman”). If there is unwanted physical contact of any kind involved (“Outrage of modesty”, molestation), the laws are gender neutral and punishments generally more severe.
• Severe penalties for drug-related charges, including the death penalty or caning.
• Strict penalties for those who illegally possess or carry firearms, or who commit crimes with firearms

Singaporean authorities may conduct unannounced drug tests and property searches, including upon entry into the country, on foreign citizens who are suspected of consuming or possessing illegal drugs. Police may require you to provide a urine or blood sample on short notice. A positive finding or an unwillingness to participate can lead to a denial of entry into Singapore, detention and/or confiscation of your passport while under an investigation. Singaporean authorities may arrest and convict any permanent residents of Singapore even if they have consumed illegal drugs outside of Singapore.

Singapore does not recognize dual nationality beyond the age of 22, and it strictly enforces universal national service for all male citizens and permanent residents. To determine if you will have a national service obligation, you should contact the Ministry of Defense .

Drunk and disorderly conduct is treated seriously, and can lead to a fine or imprisonment. As of April 1, 2015, it is illegal to drink alcohol in a public place between 10:30 pm and 7:00 am. The areas of Geylang and Little India are designated as “Liquor Control Zones” where drinking in public places is prohibited all weekend, on public holidays, and on the eve of public holidays. Under the Liquor Control Act, you could be fined up to SG$1,000 for consuming alcohol in a public place during prohibited hours.

Public Demonstrations:  Public demonstrations are legal only at Speakers’ Corner in Hong Lim Park and most outdoor public assemblies require a police permit. Singapore amended its laws in April 2017 to forbid foreign nationals who are not permanent residents from observing permitted public demonstrations, assemblies, and processions at Speakers’ Corner. The law does not distinguish between participants and observers, so anyone at Speakers’ Corner could be considered part of an event. Penalties may be severe, including large fines and/or imprisonment.

Faith-Based Travelers:  The Singapore Convention of Jehovah’s Witness and the Unification Church continue to be banned by the Singapore government. All written materials published by the International Bible Students Association and the Watchtower Bible and Tract Society, publishing arms of the Jehovah’s Witnesses, remained banned by the government.

See our following webpages for additional Faith-based traveling details:

• International Religious Freedom Report  – see country reports

LGBTI Travelers:  Singapore does not recognize same-sex unions. The Penal Code criminalizes any “act of gross indecency” between two men and prescribes a sentence not exceeding two years for those found guilty under this law. The Singaporean government has stated that it will not enforce this section of the Penal Code but it remains on the statute books. The government issues permits for open air events that openly champion LGBTI issues on a limited basis but new regulations restrict foreign involvement. LGBTI individuals may have difficulty gaining employment in certain sectors of the civil service. The  Ministry of Manpower  does not issue dependent passes (work permits) to partners in lesbian and gay relationships, even if legally married in another country.

Travelers Who Require Accessibility Assistance:  Singapore has established a comprehensive code of standards for barrier-free accessibility, including facilities for persons with physical disabilities, in all new buildings and has mandated the progressive upgrading of older structures. The  Ministry of Social and Family Development (MSF) is responsible for protecting the rights of persons with disabilities and implementing programs and services in the disability sector.

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Good medical care is widely available in Singapore. Doctors and hospitals:

• expect immediate, up-front payment for health services by credit card or cash
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U.S. Embassy Singapore maintains information on doctors and hospitals here . We do not endorse or recommend any specific medical provider or clinic.

In certain circumstances, the Ministry of Health may access patient medical records without the consent of the patient, and in certain circumstances physicians may be required to report information relating to the diagnosis or treatment without the patient's consent.

Employment pass holders are subject to medical exams and may be denied or deported on medical grounds, including for HIV infection.

For emergency services in Singapore, dial 955.

Ambulance services are widely available. We do not pay medical bills. Be aware that U.S. Medicare does not apply overseas. Most hospitals and doctors overseas do not accept U.S. health insurance.

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Visit the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention for more information on type of insurance you should consider before you travel overseas. We strongly recommend supplemental insurance to cover medical evacuation.

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• Visit the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention website for more information about Adventure Travel .

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The following diseases are prevalent:

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Use the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention recommended mosquito repellents and sleep under insecticide-impregnated mosquito nets. Chemoprophylaxis is recommended for all travelers even for short stays.

Visit the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention website for more information about Resources for Travelers regarding specific issues in Singapore.

Mosquito-borne diseases: Dengue is active in Singapore and can be monitored at the  Singapore National Environmental Agency . In addition, most neighboring countries are Zika endemic.

Haze: Air pollution from forest fires in neighboring countries occurs intermittently, usually between July and October. Singapore’s National Environmental Agency’s  Haze  provides public updates on conditions.

Travel and Transportation

Road Conditions and Safety:  Singapore has a highly developed, well-maintained road and highway network. Be aware of motorcyclists, who often ignore lane markings.

The  Automobile Association (AA) of Singapore  provides roadside assistance, and the  Land Transport Authority  has rescue vehicles on the road at all hours. In addition, closed circuit cameras monitor all major roads.

Traffic Laws:  Driving is done on the left-hand side of the road. Laws involving traffic rules, vehicle registration, and liability in case of accident are strictly enforced and violations may result in criminal penalties.

Public Transportation:  Public transportation and taxis are abundant, inexpensive, and reliable. Bus stops and trains have panels indicating all routes and stops.

See our  Road Safety page  for more information. Visit the website of Singapore’s  national tourist office  and  national authority responsible for road safety .

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Singapore’s Foragers Find More Than Food in the Sidewalk Cracks

Foragers avoid cops and nosy neighbors to make dinner from Singapore’s flowering hillsides and teeming shorelines, all while challenging the city’s conception as a hypermodern nation

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Without understanding exactly how I’d gotten there, I straddled the side of a steep hill in downtown Singapore, stretching my arm into the branches of a belimbing buluh tree for plump yellow-green fruits. Tiled shophouses surrounded the hill, and beyond, the austere skyline loomed like a glittering tidal wave. I focused on a little cluster of fruit dancing just beyond my fingertips and went for the pluck.

From the base of the tree, MJ Teoh, head chef at Native , told me belimbing is a member of the starfruit family that produces small, powerfully sour fruit. From the restaurant’s air-conditioned dining room, she had tasked me with helping gather ingredients for the dinner menu. We also needed bunga kantan, known as torch ginger — a flower that grows like a pink flame and a key component for a local sweet-savory classic called rojak — and pepper leaves, flashy green leaves used as ground cover throughout Singapore that yield a sharp flavor, which the chef uses in a take on miang kham, a street food popular in Thailand.

We gathered what we needed and hustled back to the restaurant — before we attracted any unwanted attention. Foraging in some parts of Singapore is illegal, and perpetrators are subject to fines and jail time. While only a small portion of the 283-square-mile territory is technically protected and penalties are rarely enforced, the law represents a broader cultural prohibition on foraging that essentially applies to all public spaces. Even when foragers are safe from legal consequences, rampant social stigma and nosy neighbors are enough to keep people away from the bounty growing around the metropolis.

In a generation, Singapore transfigured from a nation of agriculture into a hypermodernized economic powerhouse with robust manufacturing and a massive international port, doing its best to clear any memory of humble subsistence farming along the way. But a dedicated minority of intrepid foragers maintain the practices that predate the modern country, gathering wild fruits in the shadows of skyscrapers, prying oysters from rocky shores, and hunting for gems among mangrove swamps. With my T-shirt full of belimbing fruit, I had joined them. It was not the last time I would be up on that hill.

The country’s rapid urbanization has made it easy to forget that Singapore was recently an island made up of small villages known as kampongs. After being expelled from Malaysia in 1965, Singapore’s first prime minister, Lee Kuan Yew, furiously pushed the country toward modernity and relocated residents into high-rise housing developments.

“Difficult adjustments were inevitable and there were comic, even absurd results,” Lee wrote in his autobiography. “Several pig farmers could not bear to part with their pigs and reared them in their high-rise apartments. One family ... brought a dozen chickens and ducks to rear in the kitchen.”

While the government was busy moving people into apartments, Lee was establishing green spaces that would beautify and cool the gleaming city. He saw urban greenery as a way to “achieve First World standards in a Third World region.” And he was fiercely protective of these green areas, railing against what he saw as lawless destruction.

“Perseverance and stamina were needed to fight old habits,” he wrote. “People walked over plants, trampled on grass, despoiled flowerbeds, pilfered saplings. And it was not just the poorer people who were the offenders. A doctor was caught removing from a central road divider a newly planted valuable Norfolk Island pine which he fancied for his garden.”

Today, his obsession is law. Under the Wildlife Act (established in 1965) and later the Parks and Trees Act , the National Parks Board of Singapore prevents residents from tampering with plants in protected spaces. Anti-foraging rules are rarely enforced, making the prohibition something like laws against jaywalking in New York. Authorities look the other way usually — but not always.

In 2018, a Bangladeshi migrant worker was slapped with a fine of $2,000 Singapore dollars (about $1,500 USD) for picking leaves from a kelat oil tree in the Singapore Botanic Gardens, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Singapore has a track record of heavily scrutinizing migrants, especially people from countries perceived as less developed. In the end, the man was let off with a warning, but for many in the foraging community, the incident was a wake-up call.

Even more than the cops, foragers have to watch out for their own neighbors. Lee’s words still echo among environmentally conscious NIMBY (“not in my backyard”) residents, who see foraging as destruction. Often, fear of public shaming is all it takes to deter foragers.

“It’s the Singaporean psyche,” says Rossman Ithnain, a retired Singaporean diplomat and an expert in local flora and fauna. “We are generally law-abiding. So in a sense it´s self-policing.” Recently, when a group of friends went foraging, he warned them, “Technically it is not a protected area, but you know there are many nature warriors who have a single-minded approach. Don’t get filmed!”

This conflict plays upon a generational divide. When given the chance, aged residents, rapt in nostalgia, will recall the wild flavors of old Singapore they enjoyed in their childhood. Younger to middle-aged Singaporeans — who grew up with grocery stores, air-conditioned hawker centers, and other conveniences — condemn foraging as a drain on Singapore’s extremely limited biodiversity.

This isn’t an accident. When Lee and his government set about redefining Singaporeans’ relationships with the natural world, they specifically targeted children, filling schools with new lessons about environmental protection.

Rossman invited me on several excursions, which always had a delightful air of serendipity; they weren’t explicitly for foraging, but there was always the possibility.

At the crack of dawn one morning in western Singapore, I met him and a group of friends outside of Bukit Panjang train station. We chatted in our sun hats as we made our way to the trail. Rossman dove toward papaya trees along the way as a few gardeners watched us with curiosity.

The trail had once been a large kampong. The only remaining evidence was the once-cultivated fruits and herbs now growing wild. Huge displays of bird’s nest ferns, radiating from notches of trees and flowering straight out of the ground, offered young shoots that could be eaten raw in salad. We spotted ulam raja, with its pink flowers and splaying fan-like leaves, the latter of which taste wonderfully of green mango and offer remarkable anti-diabetic properties . We wandered further, posing for photos in front of finds like rugged trophy hunters. At a giant daun buas-buas tree stretching out of a river, I was tasked with wading in to gather leaves, known for their antibacterial properties and culinary uses in soups and curries.

Until the 20th century, the country was part of Malaysia, where there’s a long history of herbal medicine. Knowledge of medicinal applications lingers in Singapore (augmented by immigrants who brought their own practices from India, Indonesia, Thailand, the Philippines, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, and Myanmar). But this expertise is seen as out of step with Singapore’s modern health care. The association with outmoded natural medicine is yet another strike against foraging.

Even when they’re not overt, though, medicinal practices underlie dishes like nasi ulam, which translates from Malay to “herbaceous rice.” It essentially consists of chopped herbs — laksa leaf, galangal, Thai basil, torch ginger, mint, ulam raja, lemongrass, turmeric, and wild betel leaf, each with its own impressive resume of benefits in traditional medicine — sometimes combined with dried fish, folded into steaming rice, and topped with bits of shallot and sambal chile. The dish is relatively rare, since it can include up to 19 different herbs, which must be diced into near subatomic size before incorporation.

“It’s a lot of work,” says Redha Faikah Binte Abdul Wahid, owner of the Little Red Hen stand at Amoy Street Food Centre in downtown Singapore, where she specializes in nasi ulam.

At one time, all the necessary herbs and leaves were local to Singapore, making it a highly foragable dish. Many ingredients can still be found within meters of the hawker center. Yet, instead of walking around the corner to pick whatever looks good, Wahid and her family rise around 4 a.m. each morning to buy them from a local market, where ingredients are trucked in from Malaysia.

This kind of international sourcing is par for the course. The country produces roughly 10 percent of its own sustenance and buys the rest from 172 different countries. Despite its complex relationship with homegrown ingredients, the Singaporean government has recognized the vulnerability of relying almost entirely on foreign markets, even before the COVID-19 pandemic impacted supply chains. In 2019, Singapore launched the 30 by 30 initiative to become 30 percent self-sufficient by 2030.

Though foragers would appear like prime advocates for building up Singapore’s native resources, overreliance on outside supply chains has only reinforced NIMBY residents’ scarcity mindset. Critics assume foragers take as much as they can, despite the fact most foragers express an ethos of taking “just enough.” With their intimate knowledge of the land and the plants living alongside them, foragers are uniquely qualified to understand the precarity of the resources they utilize.

The government isn’t only interested in developing green spaces, but any sort of land. Since its founding, the country has attempted to expand its territory through infilling. The reclamation effort off the city’s east coast began promptly in 1966, building out coastal areas with mixtures of sand, mountain soil, and cement. Singapore’s famous Changi International Airport, constructed in the late ’70s, is built entirely upon this kind of reclaimed land.

Not far from the airport, Changi Beach is one of the few original coastal areas that hasn’t been impacted directly by reclamation. One afternoon I joined Rossman there for a walk. Small crabs scuttled under neon hoods of kelp, razor clams flowered on the rocks, and bright pink sea cucumbers rolled aimlessly in the tide as we combed the shore. Nearby, a boy and his father put long, spear-like shells into a bag. I asked them what they had planned for the shells.

“Can eat,” said the boy with a shy smile.

We marveled at brown muscles, an invasive but edible species. Rossman gave a little cry when he spotted a noble volute, an edible species once abundant in Singapore that’s now considered highly vulnerable due to habitat loss.

The sheer amount of trash was also disquieting. Car tires lay beached in the sand. I poked at a red alarm clock studded with barnacles and bagged a sturdy plastic clothes hanger for my closet, ultimately our only foraged token of the day. Rossman was less interested in gathering ingredients than giving me a peek at the texture of Singapore’s waters before the reclamation effort totally reshapes every mile of coastline.

Though the conflict between foragers and NIMBYs does illuminate Singaporeans’ changing relationship with the natural world, it also distracts from the destruction officials continue to impose upon the landscape in the name of modernity. Locals largely do not have a voice to stop the government from chomping away at their forests and waters. What they do have are small acts of preservation, not of wild spaces but of practices that encourage respect for natural resources.

As we made our way off the beach, in the dying light I watched shadows moving in the tide, making calculated passes at little reef guppies with handheld nets. Rossman’s wife picked us up in their car, and we zipped off into the warm evening. I held my wet shoes in a plastic bag on my lap.

“So what did you find out there?” she asked.

The car was silent except for the air conditioner blasting away.

Jackson Kao is a writer and professor living in Bogotá, Colombia. He eats dark chocolate and prefers the mountains to the ocean.

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