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Travel guides to Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Honest Travel Guide to Sabah

Signature food of Sabah / Malaysia. from left to right: Tuaran fried Noodle, Satay, Pork Noodle (Sang Yuk Mee), Ngiu Chap soup noodle, Hinava and Bak Kut Teh

Every year about 4 millions tourists visit Sabah because of her nature wonder, which is completed with islands & beaches, hills & mountains, pristine rainforest, abundant marine and Borneo wildlife, and colorful cultures, all suitable for a leisure vacation and softcore adventures. We have Sipadan Island , one of world’s top 5 dive sites, Danum Valley , a Borneo virgin rainforest older than Amazon and Mount Kinabalu , the highest mountain of Malaysia.

Where is Sabah?

Sabah is one of the 13 states of Malaysia, a country in the centre of South East Asia. Sabah is at the northern part of Borneo, the third largest island in the world, shared by three countries, namely, Malaysia (Sabah and Sarawak), Brunei, and Indonesia (Kalimantan). Sabah is the second largest state of Malaysia, and also a mountainous state with 59% of her land covered by forest.

Location map of Sabah and its major roads

The capital of Sabah State is Kota Kinabalu city (KK in short). With a population of over 244,000, KK is located in west coast and the 13th largest city in Malaysia. Most tourists who visit Sabah will land in KK by air. KK is voted as one of the best cities for retirement in the world .

Sabah is 8 hours ahead of GMT (GMT+8), same time zone as Kuala Lumpur and Shanghai.

Current local time in Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia

Malaysia is a tropical country with warm and humid climate (Humidity: 85-95%) throughout the year, so is Sabah, the temperatures are fairly constant, ranging from 32°C (90°F) in lowland to 21°C (70°F) in highland . Temperature can reach near freezing point in higher altitude of Mt. Kinabalu. The wettest months of Sabah are from December to January , with heavy rain from Northeast Monsoon. The dry months are from March to September. The most comfortable clothing are lightweight and quick-dry T-shirt, shorts and sandal. Only in highland such as Kundasang, Ranau, Tenom and Tambunan you would need more clothing like jacket to stay warm. To locals, our weather only has 3 modes: sunny, cloudy or rainy.

Tour package to Mataking

Natural Disasters

Sabah is also known as The Land below the Wind because we are just below Typhoon belt of Philippines and not hit by typhoon. However, the tail of typhoon would brings rainstorm (happens occasionally between Apr and Nov), strong wind and rough waves that affect outdoor activities. During heavy rain season, flood and landslide occurs in some areas. It’s advisable not to visit Kinabalu Park on the same day you leave Sabah, just in case the way home is blocked by landslide.

No Tsunami (tidal wave) threat presents in Sabah. There was a magnitude 6.0 earthquake in 2015, but no life-threatening earthquake thereafter. Week-long haze may or may not occur between Jun and Sep, the time neighbouring Kalimantan clear the land by open burning.

What’s the Best Time to Visit Sabah?

Actually anytime is fine. Due to global warming, the weather is not so predictable.

  • Dry Months : March to September (ideal for outdoor activities)
  • Diving : April to June (best visibility and calmest waters), February to March (whale shark season)
  • Turtle Nesting: July to August
  • Stargazing: April to September

Worst Months to visit:

  • Chinese New Year (between late Jan and mid-Feb) and Puasa (Muslim fasting month), the time when many shops / restaurants are closed.
  • Wet Months : Nov-Jan (Northeast Monsoon)
  • Peak Season (Travel): Nov-Jan and Jun-Aug. Book flight and hotel earlier if you will visit Sabah in these months.

Events & Festivals

You won’t regret to add the following grand cultural events into your itinerary.

  • 30 & 31 May: Kaamatan Celebration (Harvest Festival)
  • April: Lepa-Lepa Water Festival *
  • October: Tamu Besar *

*date is subject to change

Electricity

Electricity is on the 240 Volts AC/ 50-Cycle system. Malaysia uses standard British three-pin rectangular blade plug (Type G) and sockets. You can buy the travel universal plug in our shopping malls.

Type G British three-pin rectangular electrical plug used by Malaysia

Units of Measurement

British Imperial System. We use Kilometre (KM), Metre (M) and Centimetre (CM) to measure distance and length, Kilogram (Kg) and Gram (G) for weight measurement.

Money and Payment

The international currency code of Malaysian Ringgit is MYR. But you see Ringgit is more commonly labelled as RM on price tags here. Both MYR and RM are the same thing (e.g. RM20 = MYR20). Banknotes are divided into the following denominations: 1, 5, 10, 20, 50 and 100.

Malaysia Ringgit Banknotes in RM1, RM5, RM10, RM20, RM50 and RM100

Cash is King , so always have at least one or two hundred Ringgit cash with you, though e-Wallet such as Boost is getting very popular. Small eatery, bus and national parks usually expect you to use cash. Credit Cards such as MasterCard and Visa are widely accepted by hotels, restaurants and larger shops. Some shops may require you to spend a minimum amount of money like MYR30 or MYR50 to allow payment by credit card.

Currency Exchange

Kota Kinabalu International Airport has a few money changers where you can exchange your currency to Ringgit. You may exchange a small amount of money, then convert the rest with Licensed Money Changers in the shopping malls, which offers better rate. Most major hotels charge a nominal fee for currency conversion. You can use the form below to check the latest exchange rate of your currency to Malaysian Ringgit (MYR).

There are a lot of licensed money changers in shopping malls of city. Make sure your notes are in near-perfect condition as notes with any torn or stains would not be accepted by money changers. Commonly accepted currencies are US Dollar, Australian Dollar, British Pound, China RMB, Indonesia Rupiah, Philippines PESO, Thailand Baht, etc. You may convert your money to one of these currencies above in your country first to bring to Sabah. Be vigilant of people around you when you leave the counter with your money.

Internet WiFi & Phone

Sabah has 4G coverage in populated area. You can get a local SIM card and register a prepaid phone line (with Internet data plan) at Kota Kinabalu International Airport, if you arrive in normal working hours. Our big 3 cellphone service providers are Celcom , Maxis (HotLink), and Digi .

Tourist SIM Cards of Malaysia

Maxis has great Internet speed in city and suburban areas. Celcom has the widest coverage but fairly slow line. Digi is somewhere in between. You and your travel mates can use different providers to backup each other. You can browse the Traveller SIM Cards by Celcom , Maxis , and Digi .

There are many phone shops in city that can help you to register a line or reload credit. By law you need a passport to register. The country code of Malaysia is 60. If you get a mobile phone number like 012-3456789. Your overseas friends and relatives can call you at +60 123456789. Anyway, you can use Whatsapp and Facetime. Set your phone to airplane mode when you are in remote places that have no connection, or the busy network search would drain your battery.

WiFi service is available in most hotels (some may charge a fee). Many restaurants and cafes in town also have free WiFi access. Kota Kinabalu City centre has free WiFi but the connection is quite patchy (no every street is in the range).

Travellers can buy almost every necessities in Sabah, so you can cut the weight of you check-in luggage. Shopping malls generally open daily from 10am to 9:30pm. They are air-conditioned and good place for grocery shopping, phone service, local food, money changers, clothing, and movie time. Toilet inside shopping mall collects an entry fee of MYR0.20 to MYR0.50. Besides shopping malls, you can find drug store / pharmacy, supermarkets, and 24×7 convenience stores around town area.

Things to Buy

Sabah Tea, Tenom Coffee, White Coffee, Orangutan / Proboscis Monkey plush toy, handicraft (bead necklace / bracelet, baskets), hand woven tapestries, colourful serdang box, Sabah batik, durian chocolate, mango candy, dried seafood, frozen seafood, scarf with Sabah motif, and sting-less bee honey are popular buy, besides the ordinary keychain, fridge magnet and I♥Sabah T-shirt. You may check out my guide on 10 best souvenirs to buy in Sabah .

Souvenir of Sabah

Good places to shop and bargain for these souvenirs are Gaya Street shoplot and its Sunday Market (7am-12pm) in KK City Centre. Filipino Market next to KK Central Market is also a good spot. KadaiKu has the best line of authentic Sabah products (higher prices).

Popular Tours

Most tourists travel in Sabah for 5 days and majority of them visit or do the following:

  • Climbing Mount Kinabalu *: the highest mountain of Malaysia
  • Kinabalu Park : staycation in the cooling highland and tour around the UNESCO World Heritage Site and Geopark
  • Kinabatangan River ( Corridor of Life ): river cruise to see Orangutan, Proboscis Monkey and Pygmy Elephant
  • Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre Orphanage and “school” of baby orangutan
  • Tunku Abdul Rahman Park : beautiful islands (e.g. Sapi , Manukan ) 15 minutes away from KK
  • Mantanani : Mermaid Island
  • Mari-Mari Cultural Village : experience lifestyle of 5 native tribes
  • River Cruise at Klias , Weston , Kawa-Kawa : Wetland, Sunset and Proboscis Monkey
  • Poring Hot Springs : natural hot springs, tree canopy walk, rafflesia flower
  • Tip of Borneo : scenic beach and seascape
  • Islands of Semporna (part of Coral Triangle): Sipadan *, Mataking Island , Mabul Island , Bohey Dulang Island
  • Padas / Kiulu River Rafting
  • Danum Valley : 130-million-year old primary rainforest
  • Turtle Islands Park (Selingan) *: turtle nesting and hatchery

*Need to book 6 months in advance as they are always fully booked, even in non-peak seasons.

Sabah has many more wonderful attractions, please explore them in this travel blog MySabah.com (shameless self-promotion). Not all destination accepts walk-in tourist, some requires you to go by tour.

People and Culture

There are 42 ethnic groups living in harmony in Sabah. In Sabah population of over 3.5 millions, Kadazandusun people are the largest indigenous group and occupy 30% of population, followed by Bajau (21%), Malay (20%) and Murut (5%). 12% of Sabah population is Chinese and most of them live in cities. Interracial marriage is very common, so don’t be surprised if a native can speak Chinese.

Indigenous people of Sabah (Kadazandusun, Bajau, Murut and Sea Bajau)

Generally, Sabah people are gentle, friendly and more tolerant. Though we are Malaysians, we like to call ourselves as Sabahans . Sabahans are very laid back, we might look like slow loris to those from fast-paced modern cities LOL.

Interesting Facts

  • The iconic dance of Sabah is Sumazau of Kadazandusun people, which mimic the movement of bird in flight.
  • Murut was once the headhunter of Borneo. Their bamboo dance (named Magunatip ) is to welcome the return of headhunters.
  • Bajau is the Cowboys of the East because of their excellent horse-riding skill.
  • Sea Bajau in East Coast is also known as Sea Gypsies , sea nomads who spend their lives (cooking, giving birth, sleeping) on the boat.
  • Most Sabah Chinese are the descendants of Chinese labours immigrated from China in 19th century. Hakka, Hokkien and Cantonese are the most common Chinese dialects.

Islam is the official religion of Malaysia and 65% of Sabah people are Muslim, followed by Catholics, Christians and Buddhists. Many destinations have Surau room for Muslim to pray. In hotel room, look for the Qibla compass on the ceiling that points to Makkah. Malaysia is rated as a top Muslim-friendly holiday destination , in terms of Islam-compliant on food, services, prayer facilities and accommodation.

About 80 languages are spoken in Sabah. Malay is the national language, English is our second language and widely spoken, especially in urban and business environment. English is used in shop signage and even food menu. Chinese is also common in cities. Tourists have very little language barrier in Sabah. Most Sabahans are multilingual and can converse in 2 or more languages such as Malay, English, Chinese (Mandarin), Hakka and Cantonese.

Yes we know English but… it’s not our mother tongue. If we have problem to understand you, you may need to speak slowly and clearly using simple words. Avoid using slang from your region.

Useful Phrases

Sabahans do understand basic English phrases such as “How are you?” and “Thank you.” You can travel comfortably in Sabah without learning any local words. The only reason you learn is for ice-breaking with your cute pronunciation. If you really want to impress the locals, say “ Boleh Bah Kalau Kau ” (meaning: Can / Sure if this is for you / Of Course!) or Bah (meaning OK or Yes).

Anyway, here are some useful words for you to read local signage: Tandas (Toilet), Lelaki (Male), Perempuan (Female), Tutup (Closed), Jalan / Jln. (Road / Street), Kampung / Kg. (Village), Taman (Park), Masuk (Entrance), Keluar (Exit), Kedai (Shop), Bas (Bus), Teksi (Taxi), Air (Water).

Local Etiquette

Sabahans are really diversified. Even if one group accepts certain interaction, the same thing can be awkward to others. Don’t worry. Sabahans are highly-tolerant. But good to be respectful and sensitive.

  • Take off your shoes before entering house, mosque and (some) temple.
  • Don’t handshake with left hand. A handshake should only be initiated by ladies.
  • In places of worship, visitors are required to dress modestly. Lady is required to wear scarf and long skirt to cover their hair and exposed skin in mosque.
  • Muslim takes no pork & liquor, do not offer them.
  • Pointing at people with index finger is rude, you may use your thumb to point at something (still better not pointing at any person).
  • No nude / topless sunbathing on beach (I have no complaint but many think boobs are evil).
  • Holding hand and hugging with your spouse in public is romantic. Long wet kiss is probably too much here.
  • Guys, don’t touch the shoulder of female.

Just to list a few examples of misbehaved tourists: going nude on Mount Kinabalu and Sibuan , walking in city with bikini , hot dance at mosque . Sabah is not Miami.

Food and Dining

The staple food of Sabahans are rice, noodles and bread. As a multicultural and food loving society, we have many options to spoil you. The most common place locals going for a meal is Kopitiam or Kedai Kopi (Coffee Shop), an open air shop which sells common food items such as mixed rice ( nasi campur ), chicken rice and fried noodles. A proper meal costs about MYR6 to MYR8 (without drink) in city. Japanese food, Western food and fast food are common as well in city. Fun Fact: All small towns have KFC Fried Chicken.

Recommended Food

Tuaran Mee (Tuaran Fried Noodle), Ngiu Chap (Beef Noodle), Sang Yuk Mee (Pork Noodle), Tamparuli Mee , Fish Noodles , Seafood , Kon Lou Mee (Dry Noodle), Nasi Lemak, Bak Kut Teh , Satay, Laksa, Rojak, Soto (Malay Noodle Soup), and Hinava (Local Fish Salad).

Signature food of Sabah / Malaysia. from left to right: Tuaran fried Noodle, Satay, Pork Noodle (Sang Yuk Mee), Ngiu Chap soup noodle, Hinava and Bak Kut Teh

Dining Guide

If this is your first time visit Sabah, below are some guidelines:

  • No smoking in any eatery.
  • Some restaurants say they “Serve No Pork” but that doesn’t mean they are certified halal. Look for halal logo when in doubt.
  • Most Sabah hotels are compliant with Halal.
  • Malay and Indian Kopitiams serve Halal (Muslim) food. Non-Muslims are also welcome to eat there.
  • You may see a small pot on table of Malay Kopitiam, the water is for washing hands. Don’t drink it.
  • Some kopitiam are self-service. You need to get your utensils and condiment at one corner.
  • Food spoils fairly quick in warm temperature of Malaysia. Don’t eat wet food that is left overnight in room temperature. You would suffer food poisoning.
  • Although Malaysia is an Islamic country, Beer & liquor are sold in many shops but at higher price (due to tax). Or you can try our Tapai or Lihing (local rice wine)
  • KFC and McDonald in Malaysia serve halal food. Don’t ask for pork burger.
  • Tipping is not obligatory but appreciated. If you see 10% service charges on your bill, you have contributed some.

Common drink you can order in Sabah Coffee Shop. From left to right: Teh-C, Teh-C Ping, Kopi-O, Teh Tarik, Kit Chai Ping, Lemon Tea

Feel free to order drink like a local with the following names:

  • Kopi-O (Hot Coffee)
  • Kopi-C (Hot Milk Coffee)
  • Teh-C (Hot Milk Tea)
  • Teh-O Ping (Ice Milk Tea)
  • Kit Chai Ping (Iced Kasturi Juice)
  • Teh Tarik (Pulled Tea)

(Kopi = Coffee, Teh = Tea, O = No Milk, C = Milk, Ping = Cold) So Ice Milk Tea is “Teh-C Ping”.

Entering Sabah

Malaysian citizens from Peninsular Malaysia can enter Sabah with MyKad (passport not required). Foreigner need a passport or Visa to visit Sabah. Your Passport must have a validity of at least 6 months upon entry. Visa is not required for some countries such as Australia, USA, UK and Japan. You can check if your nationality is Visa-free online .

If your country is eligible (e.g. China, India) to apply Visa (eVISA) online, you may submit your application here . You can request your travel agent to do it for you.

Goods Exempted

Individual may bring these items into Malaysia without paying customs duty:

  • Wine / spirit / malt / liquor not exceeding 1 Liter in all;
  • Tobacco not exceeding 225 Grams (equal to 200 sticks of cigarettes).
  • Wearing apparels not exceeding 3 pieces and footwear not exceeding one pair.
  • Portable electrical or battery operated appliances for personal care and hygiene not exceeding 1 unit each.
  • See the complete list in Royal Malaysian Customs Department website

Warning about import of animal products to Sabah at the airport

WARNING: Smuggling illicit drugs such as Marijuana, Cocaine and Heroin is a VERY SERIOUS offense in Malaysia and can result in DEATH penalty. Pornography materials and firearm (even the fake one like BB Gun) are prohibited items to bring in.

Fly to Sabah

Sabah has many direct international flight connection to major cities of East Asia and Australia. You can use Google Flights to look for direct flight and bargain tickets to fly to Sabah. If no direct flight to KK, you can fly to other cities (e.g. Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Brunei, Taipei, Seoul, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Manila) which have direct flight to Sabah . To move around major towns / cities of Sabah, book a domestic flight with Air Asia or MASwings

Kota Kinabalu International Airport (KKIA)

KKIA is the second busiest airport in Malaysia and 7.5 KM away from Kota Kinabalu city. Most international flights to Sabah will land there. Locals and tourists also mainly rely on domestic flight to travel between east and west coast of Sabah.

Once you arrive Sabah, there are a few things you can do in KKIA:

  • Get a airport taxi / bus, or call a Grab driver to pick you up
  • Exchange a small amount of Malaysian currency.
  • Register a local mobile phone line, which includes Internet data plan.
  • Visit Tourism Malaysia information booth to get more information about your trip.
  • You can even book tour package and accommodation, or rent a car there.

Car rental and money changer in KKIA

Note: Most businesses there open during normal working hours and some open until 10pm. McDonald’s McCafe in KKIA opens 24×7.

Public Transport

Our public transportation system is a joke. It is inconvenient to move around Sabah without a car. You can get a taxi or Grab driver easily in city, hotels, shopping malls and popular tourist spots. Though the taxi has the label that says “Teksi Bermeter” (Meter Taxi), they seldom use the meter. Haggle for the price before getting into the taxi. Mobile apps such as Waze, Google Map and Grab will help you a lot.

Renting a Car

Car rental is available in cities of Sabah. You can even book a car online, then collect it at the airport upon your arrival. You need a Malaysia or International Driver License to rent a car. A good place to rent car in Kota Kinabalu is Wisma Sabah.

The rental fee starts from MYR40/day for Motorbike, MYR150/day for Sedan, MYR500/day for 4-wheel Drive and MYR400/day for a Van. In Malaysia we drive at left side of the road (driver seat is at the right). The car should remain on left lane if not overtaking. Driver and passengers must fasten their seat belt or get fined heavily.

Boat Transfer

If you want to visit the islands ( Sapi , Manukan , Mamutik , Sepanggar , Mengalum ) off Kota Kinabalu city, you can depart from Jesselton Point, Sutera Harbour or Star Marina, which operates between 7am to 4:30pm. Please read my guide about these 3 boat terminals .

To visit islands of Semporna, you can book with travel agent. Most of them sells island-hopping day trip. Island resorts will provide boat transfer if you will stay on their islands. It’s NOT safe to use the unlicensed boat service, they usually wander nearby the terminal (e.g. KK fish market, Wisma Merdeka) and offer you cheaper deals.

Long Distance Bus

There are two long-distance bus terminals in Kota Kinabalu that connects to major cities / towns (e.g. Sandakan, Tawau, Lahad Datu, Semporna, Kudat) of Sabah regularly. The long distance bus is known as Bas Ekpress (Express Bus). Route to one location is usually operated by a few companies and depart in different time from 6:30am to 8:30pm.

  • Inanam Bus Terminal (North) ( see Location Map ): (from KK) to Kundasang / Kinabalu Park (92 KM), Sandakan (332 KM), Semporna (530 KM), Lahad Datu (403 KM), Kunak, Tenom, etc. ( Online Ticketing available)
  • Padang Merdeka Field ( see Location Map ): KK to Kota Belud (68 KM), Kudat (179 KM), Kundasang, Ranau, Tambunan, Keningau, Tenom
  • KK Sentral (South) ( see Location Map ): KK to Beaufort, Kuala Penyu, Brunei, Sipitang, Bongawan, Membakut

Inanam Bus Terminal and ticket counters

To save time, you should consider domestic flight over buses. For example, travel from KK to Tawau by bus takes 10 hours but only 45 minutes by flight.

Accommodation

Sabah has over 500 hotels, and with range of choices from 5-star hotels to budget hostels. Nowadays you can book accommodation at attractive rate with feature-rich online booking site like Booking.com and Agoda . You can check the location with interactive map, photo gallery and reviews. AirBnB also offers you some decent choices. Most of them offers pick-up at airport.

However, if you ask for my advice, the following hotels and resorts are my personal recommendation based on reviews by tourists. Please note the prices can vary considerably depend on the (sea) view, room size, package, length of stay, etc. The fee would be higher during peak season such as Chinese New Year. Foreign tourist (non-Malaysian) needs to pay Tourism Tax (or TTx) of MYR10 per room per night for staying in hotels or registered private accommodations.

Recommended Accommodations

5-star hotels.

Price Range: MYR500-MYR1,870

  • Kota Kinabalu: Shangri-La’s Tanjung Aru Resort & Spa (STAR) , The Magellan Sutera Resort , Hyatt Regency Kinabalu *, Hotel Le Meridien *, Hilton Kota Kinabalu *, Hyatt Centric Kota Kinabalu *
  • Tuaran: Shangri-La’s Rasa Ria Resort & Spa

4-Star Hotels

Price Range: MYR250-MYR560

  • Kota Kinabalu: Hotel Grandis *, Mercure Kota Kinabalu City Centre *, Horizon Hotel *, Promenade Hotel *

3-Star Hotels

Price Range: MYR125-MYR350

  • Kota Kinabalu: Hotel Sixty3 *, Gaya Centre Hotel *, The Jesselton Hotel* , Dreamtel *

*located in City Centre of Kota Kinabalu

Island Resorts

Price Range: MYR950-MYR3,700

  • Kota Kinabalu: Gaya Island Resort , Gayana Marine Resort , Bunga Raya Island Resort , Manukan Island
  • Semporna: Sipadan Water Village Resort , Sipadan Mabul Resort (SMART) , Kapalai Dive Resort , Mataking Island Resort
  • Sandakan: Lankayan Resort

If you want something different, go for our homestay or camping . Here are some special accommodation:

  • Rungus Longhouse
  • Misompuru Homestay
  • Glamping on Libaran Island
  • Seaventures (Dive Resort)
  • Camping at Tegudon Tourism Village
  • Farmstay: Kiulu Farmstay , Sabah Tea Garden

Health and Hygiene

  • Government hospitals, clinics and pharmacies are available in all towns / cities.
  • Treated pipe water is available in most urban and sub-urban areas. Tap water must be boiled before drinking.
  • Due to hot weather, you need to prevent dehydration, sunburn, & heat stroke , by applying sunscreen and drink a lot of water.
  • You will sweat a lot. Bath every day or you will stink.
  • Mosquito is most active during dusk and dawn. Have an insect repellent next to you.
  • Sandfly is present near mangrove swamp in evening. Its bite is itchy. Don’t scratch or it will get worse.
  • Beware of jellyfish. The sting of box jellyfish can be fatal to child.
  • Food poisoning bacteria multiply fast in our warm weather. Eat the food while it is still hot / fresh.
  • You always can find Pharmacy / Drug Store such as Watson and Guardian nearby.
  • Most public toilet are wet and smelly but bearable. Bring toilet seat wipes if you want extra clean.
  • Toilet paper is not provided in most toilet (except your hotels). Bring your own or you can experiment the water “bum gun”.

Things to Bring

  • Clothing (for tropical climate): shirts, shorts, jean, pants, skirt, underwear, socks, pajamas, etc.
  • Comfortable walking shoes and sandal
  • Visa (if required)
  • Credit card
  • Sunscreen lotion / spray
  • Sunglasses, Contact Lenses
  • Phone, cable, charger & power bank
  • Camera, battery and charger
  • Travel plug adapter
  • Toiletries: toilet paper, tooth brush & paste, soap / body wash, shampoo & conditioner, face wash, hairbrush / comb, razor & shaving cream, dental floss, mouthwash, cotton buds
  • Backpack (best if come with rain cover)
  • Reusable water bottle
  • Personal Medicine & Supplement
  • Raincoat / Poncho
  • For lady: makeup, lip balm with SPF, moisturiser, facial mask, body lotion, perfume, hair ties and clips, makeup remover, cotton pads, sanitary items
  • Optional items for outdoor activities: hiking shoes, insect repellent, swimwear, bikini, rash guard, hat, dry bag, beach towel, walking stick, flashlight, anti-leech socks
  • International / Malaysia Driver License (if you rent a car)
  • Books? Really?

You don’t need to bring any snorkeling and diving gears, which are available for rent here.

Safety & Advice

  • Always book your tour with a licensed travel agent / operator. To check if a tour company is legitimate, you can refer to the member list by MATTA (Malaysian Association of Tour and Travel Agents) .
  • Practice COMMON SENSE to avoid becoming an easy target of petty crime such as pickpocket and snatch thief.
  • NEVER, EVER leave your bag unattended on car seat.
  • Don’t flash your money in public.
  • While dining in public places, don’t leave valuable belonging such as phone and handbag on the desk.
  • Though some countries issue advisory against travelling in east coast of Sabah, security is good after more garrison are deployed to islands.
  • While crossing road, watch out for motorbike speeding between cars.
  • Never trust pedestrian / zebra crossing. Keep an eye on approaching car.
  • Only book your tour with licensed travel agents. Illegal tour agents don’t care about your safety and you are not insured.
  • Any headhunter? No. Borneo is used to be the land of headhunters, but it’s history.
  • Photocopy your National Identity Card, Passport (Photo ID page) and Credit Card, and store them separately
  • Look up the contact of your embassy in KK and save it on your phone.
  • Drone is forbidden in some islands and restricted zones. Ask before you fly one, and study our regulations .

(Boring) History in Brief

Sabah was part of Brunei in the 16th century. In year 1658, Brunei Sultan (King) ceded the northern and eastern part of Borneo to the Sultan of Sulu (Philippines). By 1881, Sabah was granted to British government and administered by British North Borneo Chartered Company . Sabah became a protectorate of the United Kingdom in 1888 and named as North Borneo (Kota Kinabalu was called Jesselton during that period). Except 1942-1945 under the hand of Japanese during World War II, Sabah was controlled by British until Sabah (North Borneo) gains total independence and form Malaysia with Sarawak, Malaya and Singapore on 16 September 1963.

Useful Apps

  • Grab : e-hailing service, similar to Uber
  • WhatsApp : almost every person and company in Sabah use this messaging apps
  • Google Maps : to get around and look for restaurants and accommodation
  • Waze : very useful navigation apps if you drive on your own
  • Foodpanda : food delivery to deliver local food to you without walking out of your room
  • Boost and Alipay: e-Wallet
  • MySejahtera: for update and tracking on COVID-19 status

Useful Numbers & Contact

  • Kota Kinabalu International Airport (KKIA): +6088325555
  • Tourist Information Center (Sabah Tourism Board) : +60 88-212121 (E-mail: [email protected] )
  • Police / Ambulance: 999
  • Custom Department (Sabah): +60 88-348100
  • Immigration Department (Sabah): +60 88-413657
  • Queen Elizabeth Hospital I: +60 88-517555
  • Queen Elizabeth Hospital II: +60 88-324600
  • List of Consulates / Embassy in Kota Kinabalu City

Thanks for reading this far. Please e-mail me if you find anything incorrect (even a typo) or incomplete. Please note this is not a sponsored page . No company pays me to get recommended here.

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Ultimate Guide to Sabah, Borneo: Top Places & Itineraries

Sabah is one of the most diverse places we have ever visited. It is located in Malaysia , on the northern half of the island of Borneo. We were enticed to go to Sabah to see orangutans and proboscis monkeys in their natural habitat. There are very few places in the world to see these creatures in the wild. 

Orangutans are on the critically endangered list and can only be seen in the wild in Sumatra and Borneo. Reminding me of the creepy dude at the bar, proboscis monkeys are endemic to Borneo. These unique monkeys are so amazing to see in real life. However, due to palm plantation deforestation, they are losing their homes at alarming rates.

Sabah also has so much more to offer. It is teeming with exotic wildlife, beautiful beaches, an epic mountain hike, and world-class scuba diving. Sabah is perfect as part of a bigger Malaysia trip or for a Borneo wildlife holiday! Whether you plan to come for a family vacation or a backpacking trip, Sabah is a wonderful destination nestled in Southeast Asia.

Check out this guide to Sabah as it covers all the best places to visit to help you plan your trip!

Content and photographs provided by Yana Kogan and Timon .

Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. If you make a purchase or booking through one of our links we may earn a small commission (don’t worry, it’s at no extra cost to you).

Best Time to Visit Sabah, Borneo

Travel to Sabah: Mount Kinabalu

The best time to visit Sabah is not as cut and dry as most places. There are different rainy seasons for the east and west of Sabah. When one has more rain, the other is drier. Overall though, March through October is the driest part of the year. Most of Sabah is rainforest, so it is possible for rain at any time of the year.

Currency in Sabah, Borneo

The Malaysian Ringgit (RM) is the national currency in Malaysia and Sabah. As of April 2022, the Ringgit is worth:

  • $1 USD = 4.35 RM
  • €1 = 4.60 RM

Religion and Language in Sabah, Borneo

Visit Sabah: Male Monkey

Sabah is not as conservative as West Malaysia, such as the Kuala Lumpur area. The majority of people are Muslim, but there are also small pockets of practicing Christians. Malay is the official language of Malaysia. However, English is widely spoken in Kota Kinabalu and the majority of tourism and hospitality businesses around the island.

As always, a few phrases in the native language are good to learn. We found that just saying “thank you” in Malay brings a very friendly response.

  • Hello – Helo
  • Good morning – Selamat pagi
  • Good evening – Selamat petang
  • How are you? – Apa khabar
  • Thank you – Terima kasih
  • I am – Saya
  • Your welcome – Sama-sama

Food in Sabah, Borneo

There are typically three types of food you can find in Sabah – traditional Malay, Indian/Bangladeshi, and Chinese. Many of the dishes in Sabah are heavily influenced by Chinese cuisine. Most of the population and places to visit are on the coast, so seafood is widely available.

Malay food is not the best for vegetarians. However, roti canai, similar to a flaky naan beard, was our lifesaver and so delicious. We ate it every day, typically for breakfast and snacking. Also make sure to try teh tarik, a frothy delicious tea.

Some common dishes in Malaysia with typical prices:

  • Roti canai – traditional bread with dipping sauces 4 RM – 6 RM
  • Telur mata – sunny side eggs 4 RM – 6 RM
  • Telur dadar – omelette 8 RM – 10 RM
  • Thosai – similar to Indian dosa 12 RM
  • Mee goreng – fried noodles 12 RM – 20 RM
  • Nasi goreng – fried rice 12 RM – 20 RM
  • Teh Tarik – Black tea with condensed milk (frothy) – 4 RM – 6 RM
  • Teh “O” – tea with sugar – 4 RM – 6 RM
  • Kopi – coffee 4 RM – 6 RM

A few useful words on food/drinks in Malay

  • Panas / Sejuk – Hot/Cold for drinks
  • Sayur – vegetables
  • Tidak ayam – no chicken

Accommodation in Sabah, Borneo

Sabah Trip: Female Orangutan

The accommodation is expensive relative to the rest of Southeast Asia. Budget hostels and dorms start from 20 RM to 36 RM ($5 – $8 USD) depending on the area. Basic private double rooms start from 70 RM ($16 USD) per night. A budget room in Sabah also typically means really poor standards. Not all hotels charge it, but legally, hotels and guesthouses are required to charge a tourist tax of 10 RM per night.

One thing we noticed was that prices were ALWAYS higher as a walk-in. We would book ahead, or walk in to check out the room, and if we decided to stay, book the room online. The best prices typically were on  Booking.com .

Transportation in Sabah, Borneo

Sabah, Borneo Travel Itinerary: Mabul Island

Getting to Sabah is best with AirAsia, a budget airline based in Kuala Lumpur. They have cheap flights to Sabah from different airports in Asia. A flight from Kuala Lumpur to Sabah is 120 RM ($30 USD) when booking 4+ weeks in advance.

Bus Transport  in Sabah is available between all major cities. Bus departures typically leave from Kota Kinabalu each hour to destinations, such as Sandakan, Semporna, or Tawau. There are several bus companies with similar fares. At the time of writing, the fares were as follows:

  • Kota Kinabalu to Mount Kinabalu 25 RM
  • Kota Kinabalu to Sandakan 45 RM
  • Sandakan to Semporna 45 RM
  • Semporna to Tawau 20 RM

Motorbikes  are available for rent in Kota Kinabalu for 45 RM/day.

Car hire companies  are located near the airport in Kota Kinabalu. The price for a small car, such as a Viva, is around 100 RM/day, or a larger Toyota SUV for 200 RM/day.

Grab Car  is excellent and available in all cities in Sabah. When traveling with multiple people, it is often the same price or cheaper than the bus. For example, a Grab Car from Kota Kinabalu to Mount Kinabalu for 80 RM, or from Semporna to Tawau for 65 RM.

Top Places to Visit in Sabah, Borneo

1. what to do in kota kinabalu.

Travel to Sabah: Chili's Night Market

The main city in Sabah – Kota Kinabalu – is filled with hotels, restaurants, and lively night markets. The Filipino market and night market, both centrally located by the waterfront, have local produce, meat, fish, and freshly prepared dinners. There are local BBQ restaurants that cook fresh seafood. Make sure to negotiate.

Gaya street has many bars and Chinese and Malay restaurants. Definitely stop by Yee Fung Laksa on Gaya Street for the best Laksa in all of Malaysia. For 19RM, you get a steaming hot bowl of the good stuff. Trust us on this one! It is worth a stop outside of town to the Kota Kinabalu City Mosque. The reflection of the mosque on the moat is a really awesome photo opportunity.

Visit Sabah: Filipino Night Market

High-End Stay:   Shangri-La Tanjung Aru Resort  is located near the city and with a private beach. Rooms start at 800 RM ($190).

2. The Best Beaches in Sabah at the Tip of Borneo

Sabah, Borneo Travel Itinerary: Tip of Borneo

The Tip of Borneo is a picturesque spot on the northernmost point of Borneo. The rocky shoreline is a perfect backdrop for sunset. Some of the best beaches on mainland Borneo are located just south of the tip. The large Kalampunian Beach has several beach cottages and a few restaurants, although a bit rundown. We preferred a smaller more private beach and tent camping at the Secret Place.

Travel to Sabah: Kudat Beaches

High-End Stay:   Kudat Riviera Beach Villas  is located at private beaches with three stunning villas to choose from starting at 1380 RM ($330).

3. Hiking Mount Kinabalu 

Sabah Trip: Mount Kinabalu

Mount Kinabalu is the tallest mountain in Malaysia and one of the highest in Southeast Asia. The hike is expensive at $350 – $400 per person and with limited permits. However, the views from the summit are some of the best of any mountain in SE Asia. Mount Kinabalu is a strenuous hike ascending over 2,200 meters (7,300 feet) and was one of our highlights in Sabah.

Check out our full post on  hiking Mount Kinabalu  for more information.

Sabah, Borneo Travel Itinerary: Mount Kinabalu Summit

High-End Stay:   Sutera Sanctuary Lodges Kinabalu Park  is located in the national park with rooms starting at 200 RM ($50 USD).

4. Borneo Wildlife in Sepilok & Sandakan

Visit Sabah: Pregnant Orangutan

Sandakan is the gateway to visiting several attractions in the area. We found the waterfront to be quite dirty and pretty smelly. Sepilok is popular for animal sanctuaries to visit. The well-known Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Center should not be missed.

The orangutan nursery is just too cute and the twice-daily feeding is a great way to get up and close to adult orangutans. The feedings are at 10 AM and 3 PM, the latter of which is less crowded. Located next door is the Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Center. Sun Bears are the smallest bears in the world and are threatened by deforestation and illegal hunting. This center is home to 42 sun bears and is open between 10 AM and 3 PM.

There is a proboscis monkey sanctuary in Labuk Bay. However, we do not recommend visiting this attraction. The owner of this “sanctuary” owns the palm plantation surrounding the park, which displaced the monkeys in the first place. Proboscis monkeys can easily be seen in the wild elsewhere in Sabah (see  Kinabatangan River ). From Sandakan, it is possible to visit Turtle Island to see nesting turtles in June.

Sabah Trip: Playful Orangutan

Entrance Costs:  The entry to the Orangutan and Sun Bear conservation are both 30 RM.

High-End Stay:   Sepilok Forest Edge Resort  is located next to the sanctuaries and has chalets starting from 290 RM ($70 USD).

5. Borneo Rainforest Tours at the Kinabatangan River

Travel to Sabah: Female Monkey

Borneo is known for its superb wildlife. The Kinabatangan River is one of the best places in Borneo to see wildlife due to its easy accessibility. Here you can easily see proboscis monkeys, orangutans, pygmy elephants, crocodiles, snakes, exotic birds, and many more in just a couple of days.

Most homestays and resorts are located near Sukau, a village upriver next to palm plantations. There are a few resorts located downriver that are more remote. While staying on the Kinabatangan, resorts usually have an all-inclusive package rate that includes meals, river cruises, and jungle walks. There are a few budget backpackers and homestays on the Kinabatangan, and there are several high-end resorts, leaving few options in between.

Visit Sabah: Grey Monkey

Mid-Range Stay :  Borneo Natural Sukau Bilit Resort  has all-inclusive packages for two people at one of their cottages for 1,060 RM ($250 USD/room).

6. Stunning Beaches and Views at Bohey Dulang

Sabah, Borneo Travel Itinerary: Bohey Dulang

An amazing day trip to the beautiful Bohey Dulang island is definitely worth it. The views are incredible and the beaches are some of the best in Sabah. You can arrange a trip from the port town of Semporna, which is the gateway to Bohey Dulang and Sipadan.

However, if it weren’t for these two things, there is absolutely no reason for anyone to ever visit Semporna. It is a filthy city with no redeeming qualities. Streets are littered with trash and an absurd amount of pollution/plastics in the water. I would avoid the cheapest backpackers here, they are truly horrible. Semporna is the necessary evil to get to some amazing places, so get in and out as fast as possible!

Travel to Sabah: Bohey Dulang

Mid-Range Stay :  The Village  is a new and modern hotel with private rooms for 180 RM ($40 USD).

7. Scuba Diving at Sipadan

Visit Sabah: Scuba Diving

Sipadan is one of the best dive sites in the world. Doesn’t it seem like you hear that in so many countries? With over 150 combined dives in some incredible places, we can attest to it being one of our favorites! With stringent laws for the protection of the marine environment, there are now only 120 daily permits for diving at Sipadan.

Sipadan is known for its incredible marine diversity. The island is an inactive volcano, with a sloping wall that has a drop-off of 600 meters (2,000 feet) to the seabed. It is home to green and hawksbill turtles, massive schools of barracuda and big-eye trevally, manta rays, reef sharks (white tip/blacktip/grey), as well as an occasional spotting of whale sharks and hammerhead sharks.

Several websites state it is cheaper to stay in Semporna, and maybe it is, but we recommend staying on Mabul Island. Mabul Island has diving as well, which is subpar relative to Sipadan, but it’s inexpensive and has tons of massive turtles.

Sabah Trip: Scuba Diving

Mid-Range Stay :  Billabong Scuba  has overwater chalets for 150 RM per person including all meals (price for divers) ($35 USD).

One-Week Itinerary for Sabah, Borneo

Visit Sabah: Mount Kinabalu

Day 1  – Arrive in Kota Kinabalu and check out the Filipino night market and nearby KK night market.

Day 2  – Take a bus to Mount Kinabalu, enjoy views of the park and pick one of the nine shorter hikes near the base of Mount Kinabalu.

Day 3  – Transport to Sandakan/Sepilok, and check out the sun bear conservation and afternoon orangutan sanctuary feeding.

Day 4  – Transport to Semporna.

Day 5  – Bohey Dulang day tour.

Day 6  – Scuba diving at the world-famous Sipadan (permits required).

Day 7  – Return to Semporna and take a flight from Tawau to Kota Kinabalu to finish your one-week trip!

Two-Week Itinerary for Sabah, Borneo

Sabah Trip: Borneo Sunset

Day 2  – Stop at the Kota Kinabalu City Mosque on the way to Kudat. Spend the afternoon at the beach, and watch the sunset at the tip of Borneo.

Day 3  – Beach day.

Day 4  – Travel to Mount Kinabalu.

Day 5  – Hiking day one up to Labuan Rata Guesthouse  (permits required) .

Day 6  – Summit Mount Kinabalu and descend the mountain, staying the night in Ranau.

Day 7  – Travel day from Ranau to Sandakan. Go to the sun bear conservation and the 3:30 pm feeding at the Orangutan Sanctuary.

Day 8  – Travel day from Sandakan to Semporna.

Day 9  – Boat to Mabul Island, scuba diving at Mabul Island.

Day 10  – Scuba diving at Mabul Island.

Day 11  – Scuba diving at the world-famous Sipadan (permits required).

Day 12  – Return to Semporna.

Day 13  – Day trip to Bohey Dulang, afternoon transport to Tawau, flight to Kota Kinabalu.

Day 14  – End your two-week holiday in Sabah!

That’s it – we hope you enjoy exploring Sabah, Borneo!

Planning a trip to Malaysia? Check out our favorite books and travel guides!

About the Author:

Yana and Timon

Yana & Timon met at college in Boston, Massachusetts. After graduating, they started their professional careers. They moved to San Francisco in 2010, a city they loved living in for nearly six years. After working and saving up money for several years, they quit their jobs and set off on an adventure of a lifetime. They started living a nomadic lifestyle in December 2015 and have not looked back since.

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Bornean Orangutan female baby hanging

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Sabah occupies a relatively small chunk of the world’s third-largest island, Borneo, yet what a punch it packs: the treasure of turquoise-fringed desert islands with coral reefs swarming with marine biodiversity; trekkers' paradise Mt Kinabalu reaching 13435ft (4095m) into the clouds; and jungles pulsing with a menagerie of bug-eyed tarsiers, gibbons, pythons, clouded leopards and huge crocs. Around 55% of Sabah is forest, and protected areas such as the Maliau Basin and the Danum Valley Conservation Area are more accessible than ever.

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Until European powers gained a foothold at the northern tip of Borneo in the nineteenth century, the tribal peoples of Sabah had only minimal contact with the outside world. Since then – and particularly since joining the Malaysian Federation in 1963 – these groups have largely exchanged traditional ways for a collective Malaysian identity. As Sabah’s cultural landscape has changed, so has its environment: the logging industry has been allowed to exploit huge swathes of the rainforests, with cleared regions used to plant oil palm – a monoculture that makes a poor habitat for wildlife. On the other hand, many locals would argue, this agro-industry provides work for thousands, and generates much-needed income into the state coffers.

Brief history

The people of sabah.

  • Sabah's Interior

Kinabalu National Park Travel Guide

From lahad datu to the maliau basin, maliau basin, north of kk, poring hot springs, pulau labuan, southwest of kk, sungai kinabatangan, day-trips from kk, kota kinabalu, the markets, sabah state museum, day-trips from kota kinabalu.

While arguments rage between campaigners, corporations and politicians, tourists continue to enjoy the remaining natural riches of “the land below the wind” (so called because Sabah’s 72,500 square kilometres lie just south of the typhoon belt). The terrain ranges from wild, swampy, mangrove-tangled coastal areas, through the dazzling greens of paddy fields and pristine rainforests, to the dizzy heights of the Crocker mountain range – home to the highest peak between the Himalayas and New Guinea, Gunung Kinabalu (Mount Kinabalu). Although habitats for Sabah’s indigenous animals have shrunk dramatically, the remaining forests still offer some of the best wildlife-watching opportunities in Malaysia. Offshore, damaging fishing practices have as elsewhere in the region taken their toll, but marine parks protect areas of magnificent coral – most famously around Sipadan – and the attendant sea life.

Sabah’s urban centres are not especially attractive or historically rich, thanks to World War II bombs and hurried urban redevelopment. While places like KK (Kota Kinabalu) and Sandakan lack notable buildings, however, they abound in atmosphere and energy, plus good places to eat and sleep. That said, Sabah’s remarkable natural attractions are the major draw for most visitors.

The Klias Peninsula south of KK offers activity-based day-trips such as whitewater rafting or firefly cruises, while with more time you could visit the island of Pulau Tiga; you may also need to transit through duty-free Labuan on the way to Brunei. North of KK lie the beaches and coconut groves of the Kudat Peninsula, where it’s possible to visit longhouses belonging to the Rungus tribe; the northernmost point, the Tip of Borneo, features windy shorelines and splendid isolation.

Heading east from KK, things get truly exciting. Dominating the landscape are the huge granite shelves of the awesome Gunung Kinabalu, a major attraction as getting up and down involves spending just one night on the mountain. Further east is Sandakan, a rapidly modernizing town with offshore attractions including the Turtle Islands National Park. Back on the mainland, at the nearby Sepilok Orang-utan Rehabilitation Centre and Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary, you can get a ringside view of animals at feeding times.

Deeper into the oil-palm plantations of east Sabah lies the protected Kinabatangan River, where visitors can take boat trips to see wild proboscis monkeys, elephants and orang-utans. Further south, the Danum Valley Conservation Area offers a spectacular canopy walkway, with the choice of staying at a luxury lodge or a humbler research centre. Alternatively try the more affordable Tabin Wildlife Reserve, with a mud volcano and an elephant colony. In the deep south, accessible via the boom town of Tawau, nestles the untouched forest sector of the Maliau Basin, now open for challenging trekking.

For divers, the offshore islands near the southern town of Semporna are the jewel in Sabah’s crown. Sipadan offers world-class diving off coral walls, while its neighbour Mabul is known for its fabulous macro (small-scale) marine life. These two are simply the best known, and the area can keep divers and snorkellers enchanted for days.

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Little is known of Sabah’s early history, though archeological finds in limestone caves indicate that the northern tip of Borneo has been inhabited for well over ten thousand years. Chinese merchants were trading with local settlements by 700 AD, and by the fourteenth century the area was under the sway of the sultans of Brunei and Sulu.

Colonialism

Europe’s superpowers first arrived in 1521, when the ships of Portuguese navigator Ferdinand Magellan stopped off at Brunei before sailing northwards. Almost 250 years later, in 1763, colonial settlement began when one Captain Cowley established a short-lived trading post on Pulau Balambangan, an island north of Kudat, on behalf of the British East India Company. Further colonial involvement came in 1846, when Pulau Labuan (at the mouth of Brunei Bay) was ceded to the British by the Sultan of Brunei. By 1881 the British North Borneo Chartered Company had full sovereignty over northern Borneo.

First steps were then taken towards making the territory pay its way: rubber, tobacco and, after 1885, timber were commercially harvested. By 1905 a rail line linked the coastal town of Jesselton (later Kota Kinabalu) with the resource-rich interior. When the company introduced taxes, the locals were understandably displeased and some resisted; Mat Salleh, the son of a Bajau chief, and his followers sacked the company’s settlement on Pulau Gaya in 1897. Another uprising, in Rundum in 1915, resulted in the slaughter of hundreds of Murut tribespeople by British forces.

World War II

On New Year’s Day 1942, Japanese imperial forces invaded Pulau Labuan; Sandakan fell less than three weeks later. By the time the Japanese surrendered on September 9, 1945, almost nothing of Jesselton and Sandakan remained standing (although the worst structural damage was inflicted by Allied bombing). Even worse were the hardships endured by civilians and captured Allied troops, the most notorious of which were the Death Marches of 1945.

Towards independence

Unable to finance the postwar rebuilding of North Borneo, the Chartered Company sold the territory to the British Crown in 1946, and Jesselton was declared the new capital of the Crown Colony of North Borneo. Within fifteen years, however, plans had been laid for an independent federation consisting of Malaya, Singapore, Sarawak, North Borneo and (it was intended) Brunei. The Federation was proclaimed at midnight on September 15, 1963, with North Borneo renamed Sabah.

Modern politics

Relations with federal Kuala Lumpur have seldom been smooth, but differences had seemed to narrow until, in 1985, the opposition Parti Bersatu Sabah (PBS), led by the Christian Joseph Pairin Kitingan, was returned to office in the state elections. This was the first time a non-Muslim had attained power in a Malaysian state. Anti-federal feelings were worsened by much of the profits from Sabah’s flourishing crude oil exports being siphoned off to KL.

Nowadays, with PBS having joined the country’s ruling BN coalition, central government is following a policy of patching up long-running, cross-state disunity to realize a vision of a multi-ethnic – but Muslim-dominated – nation.

Although many traditions have died out, Sabah’s three-million-plus population includes more than a dozen recognized ethnic groups, and numerous dialects are still in use. The peoples of the Kadazan/Dusun tribes constitute the largest indigenous group; then there are the Murut of the southwest, and Sabah’s so-called “sea gypsies”, the Bajau. In recent years, Sabah has also seen an influx of Filipino and Indonesian immigrants, particularly on its east coast.

Town and village tamus (markets), usually held weekly, are a wonderful opportunity for visitors to take in the colourful mixture of cultures. Large tamus include those held on Sundays in the state capital Kota Kinabalu (KK) and in the small town of Kota Belud, two hours north by bus. The biggest annual festival is the Pesta Kaamatan, a harvest festival celebrated in May by the Kadazan/Dusun.

While the west may have majestic Gunung Kinabalu, East Sabah is the destination of choice for animal encounters. Around former capital Sandakan alone, visitors can see orang-utans in Sepilok, proboscis monkeys at Labuk Bay – and there are no prizes for guessing the attraction at the Turtle Islands National Park.

Next stop on the itinerary is the Kinabatangan River, where lodges arrange longboat journeys to see pygmy elephants, orang-utans and more in the wild. Further into the interior, there is the option of visiting Danum Valley, a primary rainforest area with a majestic canopy walkway, or the equally appealing Tabin Wildlife Reserve.

Back on the coast, divers especially are pulled to Semporna, the jumping-off point for the myriad flora and fauna hidden in the waters surrounding Palau Sipadan, Palau Mabul and numerous other islands. Serious trekkers keen to explore the Maliau Basin, referred to by some as “Sabah’s Lost World”, set off by 4WD from the frontier boom town Tawau.

Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary

Set amid mangrove forest and reached via a track through an oil-palm plantation, Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary functions as a companion to the more famous orang-utan sanctuary at Sepilok. Most visitors come on a day-trip from Sandakan or Sepilok, which is significantly closer, but it’s also possible to stay overnight.

Two large observation platforms, each with two feeding times, offer perfect vantage points from which to view the long-nosed proboscis monkeys; at the same time you can also see silverleaf monkeys scavenge fruit left behind, and there’s some fantastic birdlife including hornbills. On a day-trip you could see all four feedings if you like, or even leave after just one, but it’s more usual to see one from each platform.

Other activities

If you make arrangements in advance then it’s possible to combine watching the monkey feeding with other activities. These include a short jungle trek or a bird-watching walk (each 1hr; RM30) or a boat trip (2hr; RM250/boat) to a fishing village. If you’re staying the night then you can also sign up for a firefly walk (45min; RM20) and a morning birdwatching walk (1hr; RM30).

The town of Sepilok, 25km west of Sandakan, is best known for its Orang-utan Rehabilitation Centre. That’s not the only attraction, though, as the Rainforest Discovery Centre is worth visiting for its canopy walkway. There are also plans to open a conservation centre for Malayan sun bears, the world’s smallest bear species. See wsunbears.wildlifedirect.org for the latest news.

Set up in 1964 and occupying a 43-square-kilometre patch of lowland rainforest, the Sepilok Orang-utan Rehabilitation Centre is one of only a few such sanctuaries. It’s also among Sabah’s most popular tourist sites, with over two hundred people crowding onto the viewing platform during feeding hours on most days. In general it’s best to go for the afternoon session, as most tour buses come in the morning.

Leave valuables in the free lockers, along with food, drink and insect repellent (which can be harmful to the orang-utans if they ingest it). There’s little shade on the viewing platform, so bring a hat. You’ll find a café near the information centre.

The feeding station is a ten-minute walk from the entrance, so arrive with plenty of time. There are usually at least a couple of orang-utans waiting for their meal, often the very young ones, and they immediately cluster round the warden as he sets out the fruit. Others may soon come along, swinging, shimmying and strolling towards their breakfast or lunch, jealously watched by gangs of macaques that loiter around for scraps.

If you have time, stick around after feeding time and take one of several trails through the forest; you’ll need to register at reception. Besides the pleasure of the walk, there’s a chance you may see one or more orang-utans.

Orang-utans at Sepilok

Orang-utans – tail-less, red-haired apes (their name means “man of the forest” in Malay) – can reach a height of around 1.65m, and can live to over thirty years old. Solitary but not aggressively territorial, these primates live a largely arboreal existence, eating fruit, leaves, bark and the occasional insect.

Most of the orang-utans at the Sepilok centre are victims of forest clearance; many have been orphaned, injured and traumatized in the process. Some have also been kept as pets, something now prohibited by law, which means that their survival instincts remain undeveloped. Orang-utans are trained at Sepilok to fend for themselves in the wild. Although not always successful, the training process has seen many animals reintroduced to their natural habitat.

Turtle Islands National Park

Peeping out of the Sulu Sea 40km north of Sandakan, three tiny islands comprise the TURTLE ISLANDS NATIONAL PARK. They are favoured egg-laying sites of green and hawksbill turtles, which haul themselves laboriously above the high-tide mark to bury their clutches of eggs almost every night of the year. Although all three islands – Pulau Selingan, Pulau Bakungan Kecil and Pulau Gulisan – hold hatcheries, tourists can only visit Selingan.

All the action is at night. As well as seeing a mother turtle laying her eggs, you can watch as the park wardens release newly hatched turtles that waddle, Chaplin-like, into the sea to face an uncertain future. Before dark there’s plenty of time – arguably too much time, given the lack of facilities – for swimming, snorkelling (equipment rental RM25) and sunbathing. Take precautions against sandflies, which can be voracious especially when it rains.

Sabah's Interior

The highway southeast out of KK claws its way up onto the ridges of the Crocker mountain range, passing Gunung Alab (1964m). The mountains separate the state’s west coast and the swampy Klias Peninsula from the area christened the interior in the days of the Chartered Company. The former isolation of this sparsely populated region ended at the start of the twentieth century, when a rail line was built between Jesselton (modern-day KK) and Tenom to transport the raw materials being produced by the region’s thriving rubber industry.

Today, oil-palm cultivation takes precedence, though the Kadazan/Dusun and Murut peoples still cultivate rice, maize and cocoa.

Sabah holds no more impressive sight than Gunung Kinabalu (Mount Kinabalu), 85km northeast of KK and plainly visible from the west coast. Revered as “aki nabalu” (home of the spirits of the dead) by the Kadazan/Dusun, it’s 4095m high and dominates the 750 square kilometres of KINABALU NATIONAL PARK, a World Heritage Site renowned for its ecology, flora and geology. Although there are other hikes within the park, the prospect of reaching the summit fires the imagination of Malaysian and foreign tourists alike.

Gunung Kinabulu: the climb

Conquering Gunung Kinabalu today is far easier than it was in 1858, when Spenser St John, British consul-general to the native states of Borneo, found his progress blocked by Kadazan “shaking their spears and giving us other hostile signs”. Hugh Low, then British colonial secretary on Pulau Labuan, had made the first recorded ascent of the mountain seven years earlier, though he baulked at climbing its highest peak, considering it “inaccessible to any but winged animals”. The peak – subsequently named after Low – was finally conquered in 1888 by John Whitehead.

Here we detail the Timpohon trail to the top as it is by far the most popular, although a longer and quieter route up, the Mesilau trail, starts 17km east of the park HQ, and offers a greater chance of spotting wildlife.

The first day

The summit route begins with an optional but time-saving minibus ride (25min; RM16.50/vehicle) to the start of the Timpohon trail. The day’s climb to the mountain huts at Laban Rata takes between five and seven hours, depending on your fitness and trail conditions. Roots and stones along the trail serve as steps, with wooden “ladders” laid up the muddier stretches. There are regular rest shelters with toilets along the path.

To Layang Layang

The air gets progressively cooler as you climb, but the walk is still hard and sweaty, and you’ll be glad of the water tanks and rest point at Layang Layang (2621m), three hours into the climb. Around this point, if the weather is kind, incredible views of the hills, sea and clouds start to unfold below you.

To Laban Rata

At just above 3000m, a detour to the left brings hikers to Pondok Paka, a large overhanging rock that was the site of overnight camps on early expeditions. It’s a further 6km to Laban Rata, which lies at 3272m. The final 2km, dominated by large boulders and steep slippery rock surfaces, are demanding even for the fittest, particularly considering the lower oxygen levels. The rewards are the view of the mighty granite slopes of the Panar Laban rock face, plus the promise of reaching your accommodation.

The second day

Most climbers get up at 2.30am for the final ascent, although those who are particularly fit might leave slightly later to avoid getting to the summit too long before sunrise.

To the summit

The trail crosses the sheer Panar Laban rock face, past the Sayat Sayat hut and onwards to the summit at Low’s Peak. Although ropes, handrails and wooden steps help in places, it’s a stiff climb at the very least. You’ll also be doing it in pitch darkness so headlamps are an advantage and a powerful torch a must. Climbers should also be aware of the symptoms of altitude sickness.

After the final push, the beautiful spectacle of sunrise at Low’s Peak will rob you of any remaining breath. Remember that it’ll be bitingly cold, so bring very warm clothing for that brief photo stop at the summit.

Descending from the mountain

After all that toil, it’s back to Laban Rata for a hearty breakfast – prepare to be shocked when you see the sharp drops along the trail, which were not visible in the dark. Then it’s time to head back down to park HQ, which usually takes three to five hours. As your leg muscles ache from the relentless downhill trudge – which is likely to get worse the next day – take a moment to reflect on the fact that the record time for the annual Kinabalu Climbathon is just over two and a half hours. That’s up and down.

Preparing to climb Gunung Kinabulu

Climbing the mountain has become a must-do in Borneo itineraries. For the thousands of people who come here annually to haul themselves up, the process is made easier by a well-defined, 8.5-kilometre-long path that weaves up through jungle on the southern side to the bare granite of the summit.

Despite its popularity, it’s a very tough trek and not to be undertaken lightly. Even given perfect weather conditions, there’s a remorseless, freezing, final pre-dawn ascent to contend with and it’s quite possible to suffer from altitude sickness and not get to the top. Bad weather can also scupper an ascent, or at least make it a pretty miserable experience.

Don’t undertake the challenge unless you are fully prepared with suitable clothing and in good general health. If you suffer from vertigo then you shouldn’t have a problem on the route up to Laban Rata (where there’s foliage to hide any drops), or even for the summit ascent (since it’s in the dark), but the way down from the summit may cause you problems.

Booking ahead

If you want to do the climb in just one day – an option only available from tour operators based in KK – then you can substantially cut costs. This does, however, mean an exceptionally long and tiring day on the mountain, while the view from the top will almost certainly be obscured by clouds by the time you get there. Getting a permit for a day-trip can also be difficult. All in all, it isn’t really worth it.

For the vast majority of visitors, therefore, ascending and descending Gunung Kinabalu takes two days. The standard route begins at the park HQ, two hours from KK and 1588m up. It’s possible to arrive on the morning of the climb, but spending the previous night in the area is a good idea; it gives time to acclimatize and means you can make an earlier start in the morning. Climbers then have to spend a night two-thirds of the way up the mountain in huts at Laban Rata, allowing for a final dawn ascent.

The accommodation on the mountain is often booked up long in advance, although tour operators in KK may be able to offer a package at short notice for an additional fee; you can also call direct in the hope of a cancellation. Avoid booking packages with overseas tour operators, which can work out a lot more expensive.

What to bring

Essential items to carry with you include a torch (preferably a headlamp), headache tablets, suntan lotion, energy boosters (such as nuts, fruit and muesli bars), and a water bottle (there’s unfiltered but drinkable water along the trail). Wear waterproof shoes or hiking boots with a good tread, and bring a few layers of warm clothing for the summit; the Laban Rata resthouse has a few jackets for rent, but you need to call ahead to reserve one. Most guides do not carry first-aid kits, so it’s best to bring your own.

The morning of the climb

Get to the park HQ as early as possible: the last group usually sets off by 11am, but ideally you should be here by 9am, in order to reach Laban Rata before the hot water runs out in the showers. Call in at the Sutera Sanctuary Lodges reception to confirm your place at Laban Rata, then go next door to the Sabah Parks office to pay the various fees.

Besides the climbing permit, conservation fee and insurance, you must pay for a guide. All those charges are mandatory; some climbers also opt to pay for a porter (maximum load 10kg). If you’re alone, ask whether you can join another group for company and to save on the guide fee. Lockers and a safe room are available at the HQ to deposit valuables or even your pack.

Kinabalu flora and fauna

If you dash headlong up and down Gunung Kinabalu and then depart, as many visitors do, you’ll miss out on many of the national park’s riches. Its diverse terrains have spawned an incredible variety of plants and animals, and you are far more likely to appreciate them by walking some of the lower trails (see Around the park headquarters) at a leisurely pace.

Around a third of the park’s area is covered by lowland dipterocarp forest, characterized by massive, buttressed trees and allowing only sparse growth at ground level. The world’s largest flower, the parasitic – and elusive – Rafflesia, occasionally blooms in the lowland forest. Between 900m and 1800m, you’ll come across the oaks, chestnuts, ferns and mosses (including the Dawsonia – the world’s tallest moss) of the montane forest.

Higher up (1800–2600m), the cloudforest supports a huge range of flowering plants: around a thousand orchids and 26 varieties of rhododendron have been identified, including Low’s rhododendron with its enormous yellow flowers. The hanging lichen that drapes across branches of stunted trees lends a magical feel to the landscape at this height. It’s at this altitude, too, that you’re most likely to see the park’s most famous plants – its nine species of insectivorous pitcher plants (Nepenthes) whose cups secrete a nectar that first attracts insects and then drowns them, as they are unable to escape up the slippery sides of the pitcher.

Higher still, above 2600m, only the most tenacious plantlife can survive – like the agonizingly gnarled sayat-sayat tree, and the heath rhododendron found only on Mount Kinabalu – while beyond 3300m, soil gives way to granite. Here, grasses, sedges and the elegant blooms of Low’s buttercup are all that flourish.

Although orang-utans, Bornean gibbons and tarsiers are among mammals that dwell in the park, you’re unlikely to see anything more exotic than squirrels, rats and tree shrews, or conceivably a mouse deer or a bearded pig if you’re lucky. The higher reaches of Gunung Kinabalu boast two types of birds seen nowhere else in the world – the Kinabalu friendly warbler and Kinabalu mountain blackbird. Lower down, look out for hornbills and eagles, as well as the Malaysian tree pie, identifiable by its foot-long tail. You’re bound to see plenty of insects: butterflies and moths flit through the trees, while the forest floor is home to creatures like the trilobite beetle, whose orange-and-black armour-plating lends it a fearsome aspect.

Mountain Torq

If merely walking up to the summit isn’t enough of a challenge, then Asia’s first via ferrata – pathways of rungs, ropes, rails and planks running along sheer cliffsides – may provide the adrenaline rush you are looking for. It’s exhilarating stuff with some incredible views, yet it’s safe because you’re always clipped onto something. Of the two routes, one is suitable for anyone over ten years old, the other has a minimum age of seventeen.

Located close to Laban Rata, the Mountain Torq centre also runs climbing and abseiling courses. Participants can arrange to stay at the Pendant Hut instead of at Laban Rata.

Ten kilometres along the road from Poring to Ranau, KUNDASANG is little more than a junction where simple stalls sell fruit and vegetables. It is, however, worth a stop for those interested in the World War II history of Borneo.

Kundasang War Memorial

The Kundasang war memorial commemorates the victims of the Sandakan Death Marches of 1945, when Japanese troops force-marched POWs from Sandakan to Ranau. No soldiers are buried here.

The site has been extensively renovated, and now includes an information centre that shows an Australian documentary about the death marches, plus three peaceful and well-tended memorial gardens (Australian, British and Bornean).

Sabah’s main trunk road continues southeast from Sandakan and the Sungai Kinabatangan to Lahad Datu. This unenthralling town offers access to two excellent rainforest areas: Danum Valley Conservation Area and Tabin Wildlife Reserve. Further south, Semporna draws scuba divers headed for the world-renowned Pulau Sipadan. It’s possible to stay in town or in an island resort; the latter range from backpacker shacks to luxurious retreats.

The main road around Sabah stops at the busy, noisy town of Tawau, from which ferries depart for Indonesian Kalimantan. Also from Tawau, 4WDs head daily for Keningau along rough routes that complete a ring road of sorts. This is also the way to the Maliau Basin, a magnet for trekkers although only accessible within expensive tour packages.

Danum Valley Conservation Area

Spanning 438 square kilometres, over ninety percent of its primary dipterocarp rainforest, the Danum Valley Conservation Area (DVCA) is contained within a sprawling logging concession. Wildlife includes bearded pigs, orang-utans, proboscis monkeys, clouded leopards and elephants, as well as reptiles, fish, insects and more than 320 bird species. Short hiking trails are limited to the eastern side, where the tourist accommodation is located. The remainder is pristine forest, out of bounds to all but researchers.

Travellers usually only visit the chaotic, traffic-clogged town of SEMPORNA because they plan to scuba dive and snorkel off nearby islands such as Sipadan, Mabul and Kapalai. While some divers base themselves on the islands, particularly Mabul, a backpacker scene has developed in Semporna since staying inexpensively can release funds for an extra dive or two. It also gives access to the more northerly islands, not usually visited from Mabul.

Semporna broadly consists of three sections: downtown, the commercial centre where buses and minivans stop; Semporna Seafront, home to dive operators (there are yet more out in the resorts themselves) and most tourist accommodation (plus an ATM in front of the Giant supermarket); and the jetty-lined Jalan Kastam, which holds more dive kiosks, a few cafés and the business-oriented Seafest Hotel.

The sea gypsies

Generations of Muslim Bajau and Suluk peoples have farmed the Celebes and Sulu seas for fish, sea cucumbers, shells and other marine products. Often dubbed sea gypsies, these people were originally nomads who lived aboard intricately carved wooden boats called lepa-lepa. Most are now settled in Semporna or on the islands around it, but their love of (and dependence upon) the sea remains strong, and the traditional red and yellow sails of the Bajau boats can sometimes still be seen billowing in the breeze. Every April, the Regatta Lepa Semporna (wetawau.com/Semporna/LEPA/LEPA.htm) sees the boats converge on the town for two days. Amid traditional singing and dancing, as well as sea sports and competitions, awards are given for the best lepa-lepa.

Islands around Semporna

Visitors come to Semporna not to hang out in town, but to explore the magnificent islands offshore. The prime destination for divers is Pulau Sipadan, but nearby Pulau Mabul and Pulau Kapalai are also renowned for marine life, and the latter in particular offers great snorkelling.

These well-known islands are, however, just the beginning. Sibuan, for example, on the edge of the chain and just over 45 minutes by boat from Semporna, has a breathtaking beach and shallow coral reefs. On Mantubuan there’s amazing pristine coral and very good visibility – a popular dive is to a section of very rare black coral (actually white), where you swim through a forest of what resemble underwater Christmas trees.

Pulau Sipadan

Acclaimed by Jacques Cousteau as “an untouched piece of art”, Sipadan is a cornucopia of marine life, its waters teeming with turtles, moray eels, sharks, barracuda, vast schools of colourful tropical fish, and a diversity of coral comparable to that at Australia’s Great Barrier Reef.

There is no accommodation on the island and thanks to Sipadan’s popularity, a permit system limits the number of divers each day. As a result, dive shops and resorts will typically require you to dive with them at other islands for three or four days before you get a day at Sipadan; you should also book well in advance. Dive shops regularly take less experienced divers, but you are likely to enjoy your time here more if you have some experience and preferably Advanced Open Water certification – there can be fairly strong drifts and some of the best dives go below 20m. At the very least you should be sure that you have enough buoyancy control to avoid damaging the coral.

You can also use the same permit to snorkel in Sipadan, but it’s hard to justify the huge premium over snorkelling trips to the other islands.

Most of the dozen-plus commonly visited dive sites around Sipadan offer the chance to see abundant turtles and white-tip sharks. The most popular, Barracuda Point, is a drift dive where divers hold onto rocks while shoals of barracuda pass by. Another great site is the Drop-off, close to the jetty, where you often find large schools of barracuda, bump-head parrot fish and Napoleon wrasse. Close to here is the entrance to Turtle Cave, a watery grave for the skeletal remains of turtles that have strayed in and become lost; fatal accidents have occurred when divers have gone in without proper guidance.

Pulau Mabul

Mabul, the chain’s largest island, holds the lion’s share of accommodation. It’s evenly split between posh resorts and affordable guesthouses; many of the latter are on the western side of the island, also home to a lively stilt-village inhabited by Bajau fisherfolk. Although there’s a beach on the eastern side, development means that this is not a very picturesque island and non-divers are not likely to find much to do (other than, perhaps, laze around the more upmarket resorts). Litter is also a major problem on the western side.

Visibility in the water can be 20m or more but it’s much less reliable than at Sipadan, particularly from July to September. Actually, though, the muck diving – seeking out creatures in the sediment – is famous here. Divemasters tend to prefer Mabul to Sipadan: while the latter has the big-ticket attractions like sharks and turtles, Mabul rewards patience. Among the marine life close to the island are seahorses – including the rare pygmy seahorse – frog fish, cuttlefish, mimic octopus, lion fish, stone fish, ribbon eels, mandarin fish and crocodile fish.

Pulau Kapalai

Little more than a sand bar, tiny Kapalai is exquisite and other-wordly. It has room only for one resort and an expensive one at that, although its reef is enjoyed by many visitors who are staying on Mabul. Again, the main attractions are the macro life: divers go looking for pygmy seahorses, harlequin ghost pipefish, frog fish and mandarin fish.

Pulau Pom Pom

The diving at Pom Pom Island itself is not the best in the area, but the island is lovely and a real desert-island escape which even has a relatively affordable resort. You also have access to plenty of other islands if diving is your passion.

Pulau Mataking

This great little island had only a single resort at the time of research, though another was under construction. Dive boats come here sometimes, as Mataking is renowned for turtles and magnificent rays, as well as interesting hammerhead nudibranchs.

Tabin Wildlife Reserve

Tabin Wildlife Reserve, a government-owned tract of land twice the size of Singapore, holds a single resort managed by a private company. It’s around 44km northeast of Lahad Datu airport, where the reserve office is based, of which the last 25km is unsurfaced. Although just eleven percent primary dipterocarp forest, Tabin offers excellent opportunities to see wildlife. Indeed, charismatic manager Fernando argues that Tabin’s strength as a habitat is in its combination of primary forest, secondary forest and plantation (which is rich in fruit for animals to eat).

Both hiking and night drives offer opportunities to come across pygmy elephants, macaques or wild boar as they cross the tracks from the forest to the plantations in search of food; orang-utans can also be spotted, and even the rare clouded leopard. Birdwatchers can look out for such endemic species as the Bornean bristlehead, blue-headed pitta and all eight local species of hornbills.

A visit to Tabin will typically include a walk to a mud volcano, used by animals as a mineral lick; a nearby tower allows guests to observe the scene and you can even sleep there by arrangement. Serious trekkers can explore the virgin forest of the Core Area, although this is not part of the normal schedule.

Sabah’s last true wilderness, and one of the world’s oldest rainforests, the MALIAU BASIN CONSERVATION AREA (wborneoforestheritage.org.my) remains barely explored; most visitors are scientists or researchers. Featuring various types of forest including lower montane, heath and dipterocarp, the basin is home to an impressive range of large mammals, notably the Borneo pygmy elephant, clouded leopard, Malayan sun bear and banteng (wild cattle), while birds include rare species found otherwise only at Gunung Kinabalu and Gunung Trus Madi.

To visit you must be on a tour, for which Borneo Nature Tours (wborneonaturetours.com) are the sole providers. The standard five-day itinerary starts at Tawau, a five-hour drive from the park, and includes long and strenuous hikes suitable only for the fit. You’ll need a doctor’s certificate to prove this, plus insurance that covers helicopter evacuation. The itinerary follows a circular route, spending the first and last night in dorms at the spartan Agathis Camp close to the park entrance, and the rest at the similarly basic Nepenthes (aka Camel Trophy) Camp, six hours’ walk deeper. Also included are night drives and a side-trip to the Maliau Falls.

Sabah’s trunk highway hurries through the northern suburbs of KK to the more pastoral environs of Tuaran. From here, the atap houses of the Bajau water villages, Mengkabong and Penimbawan, are only a stone’s throw away. Just outside Tuaran, the main road forks, with the eastern branch heading towards Gunung Kinabalu National Park and Ranau, then onwards to Sandakan.

Continuing north instead, the main road arrives at bustling Kota Belud, where a weekly tamu attracts tribespeople from all over the region. Beyond, the landscape becomes more colourful: jewel-bright paddy fields and stilted wooden houses line the road for much of the way up to the Kudat Peninsula, with Gunung Kinabalu dominating the far distance.

On the way to Kudat, the first administrative capital of the East India Company, it’s possible to stay at a Rungus longhouse in Kampung Bavanggazo. North of town the area known as the Tip of Borneo has quiet beaches and a few guesthouses. Remote islands reached from the peninsula include Pulau Banggi and Pulau Mantanani.

Kampung Bavanggazo

Although the shift to modern housing means that few traditional Rungus longhouses survive, a couple have been constructed in KAMPUNG BAVANGGAZO, 98km north of KK, to give tourists a chance to spend the night. In addition to room-only prices, it’s possible to book a package including dinner, breakfast and a tribal dance performance – call a couple of days ahead, to make sure that a performance is scheduled. Other activities include an early-morning jungle trek.

For six days of the week, KOTA BELUD, 75km northeast of KK, is a busy but undistinguished town; arriving tourists usually head straight to the jetty for Pulau Mantanani. Early on Sunday, however, the town springs to life as hordes of villagers congregate at Sabah’s largest weekly tamu. Fulfilling a social as well as commercial role, the market draws Rungus, Kadazan/Dusun and Bajau indigenous groups.

Though the market’s popularity among KK’s tour operators means there are always a few tourists, you won’t see many souvenirs for sale: instead you’re far more likely to come across dried fish, chains of yeast beads (used to make rice wine), buffalo, betel nut and tudung saji (colourful food covers used to keep flies at bay). Arrive early – if you’re coming from KK, set off by 8am at the latest.

Kota Belud’s annual tamu besar, or “big market”, usually held in October, sees cultural performances, traditional horseback games and handicraft demonstrations in addition to the more typical stalls.

Overlooking Marudu Bay, Kudat is a friendly town centred on the intersection of Jalan Ibrahim Arshad and Jalan Lo Thien Chock. The latter, the main street, holds some of Sabah’s oldest wooden shophouses and a Standard Chartered Bank. During a visit, leave time to peek at the central, orange-hued Chinese temple close to the Ria Hotel, plus the stilt village and the harbour, now significantly quieter than in the days when Kudat had an active fishing industry.

The Kudat Peninsula is home to the Rungus people, members of the wider Kadazan/Dusun ethnic group. Like most, the Rungus have gradually modernized, but many still hold their traditions dear. Older people in the kampungs still dress in black, and only two generations ago some Rungus wore coils of brass and copper on their bodies.

The architectural style of the traditional longhouse is distinctive too, built with outwards leaning walls and decorated with motifs and imagery from farming and nature. Today though, most dwellings are made from sheets of corrugated zinc, whose durability makes it preferable to the traditional materials like timber, tree bark, rattan and nipah leaves.

Pulau Banggi

The island of Pulau Banggi, 40km north of Kudat and accessible by daily ferry, is the largest in Sabah. It’s mostly flat but has lovely beaches, including one close to the jetty at the main settlement Karakit, and is worth a visit just for the boat ride and an amble on the beach. There are few tourist facilities; to dive the reefs here, for example, you’d need to make arrangements with a tour company in KK.

Pulau Mantanani

Popular with KK tour operators as a day-trip destination, Pulau Mantanani is actually a collection of three tiny islands 40km off the coast from Kota Belud (from where you can take a boat) that also holds a few resorts. It’s a lot of travel for a single day, but a lovely place to stay for a night or two; snorkelling, kayaking and scuba diving are available by arrangement.

The Tip of Borneo

Promoted as a tourist attraction in recent years, the thin promontory known as the Tip of Borneo (Tanjung Simpang Mengayau) has seen limited development but retains a great deal of charm. It’s easy to see what keeps visitors coming: cliffs drop away to steep, forested hills and waves crash onto the golden sandy beaches. While it’s well worth a visit – or, better, a night or two – if you’re in the vicinity, whether it’s worth a special journey all the way from KK is more debatable.

At the tip itself, Sabah Tourism has built a car park where steps lead down to a viewing area and a monumental globe. It’s busiest at the weekend, when local families visit; no buses or minivans come this way, so you’ll need to use your own transport, or a taxi.

The Poring Hot Springs were developed during World War II by the Japanese, who installed wooden tubs that have been replaced by tiled versions. Don’t come expecting natural pools, luxury or solitude, but it can be a good place to relax aching muscles after descending from Mount Kinabalu.

There are also a few other attractions within the site, including an orchid garden, a butterfly farm, a canopy walkway and a few walking trails. Outside the gates you’ll see signs advertising places to see Rafflesia flowers but these are best avoided: the plants have often been dug up and brought to Poring from more remote areas.

Accommodation in the Sabah hot springs area

The official accommodation within the hot springs area is run by Sutera Sanctuary Lodges and is very expensive. Luckily a handful of more affordable (if unexceptional) lodges lie just outside the entrance, with a great option in the jungle nearby.

A short distance west of the Klias Peninsula, PULAU LABUAN is not strictly part of Sabah, being Federal Territory governed directly from KL. Labuan town holds few tourist attractions, but its centre has decent eating, good mid-range accommodation and a lively nightlife. Some worthwhile sights lie beyond the town, while scuba divers are attracted by the chance to dive four wrecks. You might also want to take advantage of the island’s duty-free prices while passing through.

While there’s little reason to spend time in the undistinguished town of Ranau, it’s the main hub for travelling between Kinabalu National Park and eastern Sabah. The first day of each month sees a large and lively tamu (market), 1km out of town towards Sandakan; there’s also a smaller tamu every Saturday.

Sabah Tea Garden

The Sabah Tea Garden is a well-run organic tea plantation that makes a great place to stay for a night or two, but may also be worth a daytime visit if you’re passing through. Contact them in advance to arrange hikes and factory tours, as it’s very popular with groups and gets busy. Ask also about visiting the fish massage place nearby, where surprisingly large river fish nibble at customers’ dead skin.

Following the coast southwest of KK, the highway passes through Kinarut and Papar before reaching Beaufort, the main access point for the Klias Peninsula. This is prime country for day-trips organized by tour operators in KK, whether for whitewater rafting, proboscis-monkey watching or firefly tours. Offshore is Pulau Tiga, the setting for the first series of the TV show Survivor.

Named after Leicester P. Beaufort, an early governor of British North Borneo, BEAUFORT is a quiet, uneventful town whose commercial significance has declined since the sealed road from KK into the interior lessened the importance of its rail link with Tenom. The town’s position on the banks of the Padas leaves it prone to flooding, which explains why its shophouses are raised on steps.

It’s also the river that attracts most of the tourists who visit the town – Beaufort is the starting point for many whitewater rafting trips. Otherwise, once you’ve poked around in the market, inspected angular St Paul’s Church at the top of town and taken a walk past the stilt houses on the riverbank, you’ve exhausted its sights.

The Klias Peninsula

Thirty kilometres west of Beaufort, and served by regular minivans from the centre of town, the Klias Peninsula is an area of flat marshland that’s popular with KK-based tour operators for proboscis monkey or firefly tours.

The most westerly settlement on the Klias Peninsula, tiny MENUMBOK has no accommodation. It’s notable only for the jetty that links it to Labuan; a couple of cafés here may be useful when waiting for a boat.

Around an hour northeast of Beaufort, or 45 minutes from Menumbok, at the northern point of the peninsula, KUALA PENYU is the departure point for Pulau Tiga National Park. It’s a simple grid of streets with little more than a few stores, filled with basic supplies, and a couple of kedai kopis.

Pulau Tiga National Park

In the South China Sea, 12km north of Kuala Penyu, Pulau Tiga National Park once consisted of three islands, but wave erosion has reduced one to a mere sand bar. Of the remaining two, Tiga and Kalampunian Damit, only the former holds any accommodation. It acquired a degree of fame in 2001 as the location of the first series of the American reality-TV show Survivor.

Most visitors today content themselves with relaxing on the sandy beaches and snorkelling or diving in the azure sea, but it’s possible to hike right around the island in six hours. An easy twenty-minute walk to the centre of Pulau Tiga leads to a couple of (lukewarm) mud volcanoes. Slip and slide around there, then walk 1.2km further to clean up at lovely Pagong-Pagong beach. Be warned, though, that walking can be hard going if your feet and flip-flops are muddy.

Just 1km northeast of Pulau Tiga, Kalampunian Damit is also known locally as Pulau Ular (Snake Island), because it attracts a species of venomous sea snake called the yellow-lipped sea krait. The island is normally visited as part of a morning trip from Pulau Tiga Resort, combined with some snorkelling. It used to be possible to see dozens of snakes on a good day, but now they seem to be much more scarce and some visitors come away disappointed.

Southeast of Sandakan Bay, Sabah’s longest river – the 560km Sungai Kinabatangan – ends its journey to the Sulu Sea. Whereas logging has had an adverse impact on the river’s ecology upstream, the creation of the Lower Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary has kept its lower reaches largely free of development. This is the largest forested flood plain in Malaysia, laden with oxbow lakes, mangrove and grass swamps, and distinctive vegetation including massive fig trees overhanging the water’s edge.

The sanctuary offers some of Sabah’s best opportunities for seeing wildlife. Although some tour operators offer day-trips from Sandakan, it’s much better to stay overnight given the travel time; the ideal is a two-night stay. Although there are a few exceptions, most lodges are located either in or around the villages of Sukau or Bilit. From November to April, the rainy season can lead to flooding at some lodges – at its worst in January – and even force their closure.

Gomantong Caves

The Gomantong Caves are vast limestone cavities inhabited by swiftlets whose nests are harvested twice a year (normally Feb–April and July–Sept) for the bird’s-nest-soup trade. The caves are also home to a huge number of bats, and the enormous piles of guano (droppings) give them a distinctive acrid smell.

There are two main caves. The black cave, smaller but only a ten-minute walk from the ticket office, mostly contains black nests, a combination of twigs and bird saliva. The white cave is rarely visited by tourists as it’s another hour away, but nest collectors go there for the more valuable white nests, made from pure saliva. Note that the guano attracts a huge number of cockroaches, so don’t wear flip-flops or sandals.

There’s nowhere to stay or eat in and around Gomantong, so plan to leave the caves well before dark if you are not on a tour.

Lower Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary

Despite Sabah’s rather haphazard approach to making the most of its superb natural resources, the designation of the Lower Kinabatangan as a wildlife sanctuary in 2005 was a commendable move. That said, sanctuary status is one level below that of a national park, so villages and agricultural development have been allowed to crisscross the protected sections. Furthermore, only the area immediately alongside the river is protected; as animals have lost their habitats when the surrounding areas have been converted into palm-oil plantations, they have effectively been pushed into the narrow protected corridor.

This means that it is highly likely that, over a number of boat rides and short treks, you will see elephants (if they are in the area), orang-utans, proboscis monkeys, macaques and gibbons. The resident birdlife is equally impressive. With luck, visitors get glimpses of hornbills, brahminy kites, crested serpent eagles, egrets, exquisite blue-banded and stork-billed kingfishers, and oriental darters, which dive underwater to find food and then sit on the shore, their wings stretched out to dry. The river itself holds freshwater sharks, crocodiles and rays, and a great variety of fish species.

Sukau and Bilit

The first tourist lodges on the Sungai Kinabatangan opened around the kampung of Sukau, 134km from Sandakan by road or 87km by boat. Still the easiest place to reach, it’s particularly popular with independent travellers as it’s possible to stay in the village itself on a B&B basis then charter boats as needed. Most of the all-inclusive lodges are on the riverbanks close to the village.

Many would argue, however, that Sukau is a victim of over-development. In July and August in particular, dozens of boats converge along the same narrow tributaries at the same times and shatter any sense of peace. Although many boats now use quieter electric motors when the current allows, some still do not.

Once tourism became well established in Sukau, a few operators decided to open lodges further upriver around the kampung of Bilit. Although not the undeveloped spot it once was, Bilit remains quieter than Sukau partly because there’s no public transport to the village – it’s upstream of Sukau and reached via a lower-quality road.

Good day-trip options from KK include Mari Mari Cultural Village and Monsopiad Cultural Village for anyone interested in local culture, or taking a ride south on the North Borneo Railway if you fancy a taste of colonial Sabah. Also south of KK is the Tambunan Rafflesia Reserve , where you may be able to see the world’s largest flowering plant. The most popular attraction of all, however, are the beaches of Tunku Abdul Rahman Park just offshore.

Mari Mari Cultural Village

A newer alternative to the similar Monsopiad Cultural Village, with rather more of a theme park feel but also more interaction right from the start: groups have to assign a leader who will introduce them to the costumed “tribal leader” at the village entrance. Inside, visitors are taken on a whistle-stop tour through the longhouses and customs of Sabah’s various tribes.

Activities and demonstrations include rice wine tasting, beekeeping for honey and glue production, starting a fire using bamboo, bouncing on a trampoline, making sweets and using a blowpipe. Towards the end there’s a dance show, followed by a buffet meal. It may all feel a little phoney but, taken in the right spirit, it is also great fun and you come away both entertained and educated.

Monsopiad Cultural Village

Based around the tale of a legendary head-hunter, Monsopiad Cultural Village provides an introduction to the history and traditions of the Kadazan people. Tours are led by knowledgeable guides who take visitors to a hut where Monsopiad’s grisly harvest of 42 skulls is displayed, and then explain traditions such as the rituals practised by the bobohizan (priestess). Next comes the chance to taste lihing (rice wine) and test your accuracy with a blowpipe and sling. Finally there’s a dance show with scope for a little audience participation.

Although the exhibits and activities are interesting, the entrance price is high and the slightly dated approach has stiff competition from the newer Mari Mari Cultural Village. That said, it has an advantage in that it deals with people from a single tribe – and in the place where they lived – rather than taking a scattergun approach to tribal culture.

North Borneo Railway

You don’t have to be a railway buff to appreciate the romance of taking a steam train along the 36km of the colonial-era North Borneo Railway from Tanjung Aru station to the small town of Papar. The locomotive is a wood-burning British Vulcan, while the five carriages were built to a 1900s-style design in the 1970s.

Tambunan Rafflesia Reserve

If you feel you really must see a Rafflesia in flower while you are in Sabah, then the prospects at the Tambunan Rafflesia Reserve , often visited as a day-trip from KK, are good. As each bloom lasts for only a few days, however, it’s essential to check ahead. Assuming that one is flowering, expect a walk of up to two hours in total.

Tunku Abdul Rahman Park

Named after Malaysia’s first prime minister, and just a short boat trip away from KK, the five islands of Tunku Abdul Rahman Park (TAR Park) represent the most westerly ripples of the Crocker mountain range. The islands’ forests, beaches and coral reefs lie within 8km of the city, with park territory as close as 3km off the mainland. The three most often visited are Manukan , Mamutik and Sapi , and it’s easy to book a day’s island hopping. Try to avoid weekends and public holidays when facilities are often overstretched; don’t expect desert island solitude at any time.

Snorkelling is popular around the islands. Although careless tourists have damaged much of the coral, there’s enough marine life around to make it worthwhile. Scuba divers will find the best conditions from January to March, although visibility is still typically just 5m.

The site of the British North Borneo Chartered Company’s first outpost in the region, Pulau Gaya is the closest of the islands to KK and also the largest. It doesn’t feature on standard island-hopping routes; tourists can only visit by chartering a boat, staying at one of the island’s resorts, or booking a tour with an operator such as Tanjung Aru Tours & Travel ( w go2borneo.com ).

If you do make it over, you’ll find idyllic stretches of sand such as Polis Beach as well as lovely hiking trails; Downbelow ( t 012 866 1935, w divedownbelow.com ) runs a dive shop. The eastern end is taken up by a stilt village inhabited by Filipino immigrants.

Though far smaller than its neighbour Gaya, Pulau Sapi also has trails and is home to macaques and hornbills; with the best beaches of any of the islands, it’s popular with swimmers, snorkellers and picnickers. Sapi has simple facilities including toilets, a small café (daily 8am–4pm) and changing rooms. There’s also a dive shop, 50 Bar (daily 9am–1pm; t 013 854 5567), charging a steep RM250 per dive.

The park HQ is situated on crescent-shaped Pulau Manukan , site of a former stone quarry and now the most developed island. Indeed Manukan has become something of a victim of its own success, drawing hundreds of visitors on a busy day. That said, the beach is attractive, watersports are good and there’s a café serving a buffet (RM95) or à la carte meals – nasi lemak or curry laksa cost RM18. To escape the crowds, take the thirty-minute walk to Sunset Point.

Across a narrow channel from Manukan, tiny Pulau Mamutik is a snorkeller’s delight. The island is surrounded by coral gardens with the best stretch off the beach at the southwest, towards the back of where the boat drops you, but it’s necessary either to clamber over rocks or to swim right round.

Borneo Divers ( w borneodivers.info ) have a small dive shop, offering better prices to walk-in customers than you’ll get by booking ahead. Head out on the first boats of the day if that’s your plan; it’s much more cost-effective to do two or three dives than just one.

The last island of the group, Pulau Sulug , is the most remote and consequently the quietest, though its lovely coral makes it popular with divers. It has no facilities, and few boats visit.

It’s possible to camp on the three main islands for just RM5; tents can be rented for RM30, but don’t rely too much on availability.

While first impressions of KOTA KINABALU, which everyone calls KK, may be of a rather utilitarian concrete sprawl, many visitors end up charmed by its lively buzz and the friendliness of its citizens. As well as good places to eat, it also has excellent transport links and is the headquarters of most of the main tour operators.

The best of the city’s few specific sights are its markets, the Sabah Museum and the Mari Mari Cultural Village. A further highlight lies offshore in the Tunku Abdul Rahman Park, whose popular islands are just a short trip away by boat.

Modern-day KK can trace its history back to 1882, when the British North Borneo Chartered Company established an outpost on nearby Pulau Gaya. After followers of the Bajau rebel, Mat Salleh, burned that down in 1897, the Company chose a mainland site – a fishing village called Api-Api – to develop as a new town. Renamed Jesselton after Sir Charles Jessel, the vice-chairman of the Chartered Company, the town prospered. By 1905 the Trans-Borneo Railway reached from Jesselton to Beaufort, allowing rubber to be transported efficiently from the interior to the coast.

The Japanese invasion of North Borneo in 1942 marked the start of three and a half years of military occupation; little of old Jesselton survived the resultant Allied bombing. In 1968 the name was changed to Kota Kinabalu and city planners set about expanding outwards into the sea. Interconnecting concrete buildings have been constructed on the reclaimed land – the Sinsuran and Segama complexes and Asia City in particular have developed their own identities. Progress has been startling, and today, with a population of over a quarter of a million, KK is a beehive of activity once again.

A lively street market is held along Jalan Gaya every Sunday morning, with stalls selling items as disparate as herbal teas, handicrafts, orchids and rabbits. In addition, a huddle of markets on the waterfront are open daily, and together form one of the city’s highlights. Approaching from the northeast, you first reach the labyrinthine Central Market, which includes a fish market that’s at its best very early in the morning. Next comes the Handicraft Market, also known as the Filipino Market thanks to the ethnicity of many of its stallholders. Around sundown, the area west of here becomes a gargantuan night food market; further west still is the waterfront parade of bars and restaurants.

Styled after Murut and Rungus longhouses, the buildings of the Sabah State Museum are set in grounds that also hold several splendid steam engines. The botanical garden in front of the museum is bordered by finely crafted traditional houses, representing all Sabah’s major tribes and known as the Heritage Village (Kampung Warisan).

The other highlight of the complex, the ethnographic collection in the main building, includes human skulls dating from Sabah’s head-hunting days, and a sininggazanak, a totemic wooden figurine placed in the field of a Kadazan man who died without heirs. Photographs in the history gallery depict the city when Jalan Gaya still constituted the waterfront, lined with lean-tos thatched with nipah-palm leaves.

Exhibits on oil drilling in the Science and Technology Centre next door are less than gripping; head instead to the Art Gallery upstairs, where the centrepiece is a giant string of Rungus beads, created by Chee Sing Teck, hanging from the ceiling.

Good day-trip options from KK include Mari Mari Cultural Village and Monsopiad Cultural Village for anyone interested in local culture, or taking a ride south on the North Borneo Railway if you fancy a taste of colonial Sabah. Also south of KK is the Tambunan Rafflesia Reserve, where you may be able to see the world’s largest flowering plant. The most popular attraction of all, however, are the beaches of Tunku Abdul Rahman Park just offshore.

If you feel you really must see a Rafflesia in flower while you are in Sabah, then the prospects at the Tambunan Rafflesia Reserve, often visited as a day-trip from KK, are good. As each bloom lasts for only a few days, however, it’s essential to check ahead. Assuming that one is flowering, expect a walk of up to two hours in total.

Named after Malaysia’s first prime minister, and just a short boat trip away from KK, the five islands of Tunku Abdul Rahman Park (TAR Park) represent the most westerly ripples of the Crocker mountain range. The islands’ forests, beaches and coral reefs lie within 8km of the city, with park territory as close as 3km off the mainland. The three most often visited are Manukan, Mamutik and Sapi, and it’s easy to book a day’s island hopping. Try to avoid weekends and public holidays when facilities are often overstretched; don’t expect desert island solitude at any time.

The site of the British North Borneo Chartered Company’s first outpost in the region, Pulau Gaya is the closest of the islands to KK and also the largest. It doesn’t feature on standard island-hopping routes; tourists can only visit by chartering a boat, staying at one of the island’s resorts, or booking a tour with an operator such as Tanjung Aru Tours & Travel (wgo2borneo.com).

If you do make it over, you’ll find idyllic stretches of sand such as Polis Beach as well as lovely hiking trails; Downbelow (t012 866 1935, wdivedownbelow.com) runs a dive shop. The eastern end is taken up by a stilt village inhabited by Filipino immigrants.

Though far smaller than its neighbour Gaya, Pulau Sapi also has trails and is home to macaques and hornbills; with the best beaches of any of the islands, it’s popular with swimmers, snorkellers and picnickers. Sapi has simple facilities including toilets, a small café (daily 8am–4pm) and changing rooms. There’s also a dive shop, 50 Bar (daily 9am–1pm; t013 854 5567), charging a steep RM250 per dive.

The park HQ is situated on crescent-shaped Pulau Manukan, site of a former stone quarry and now the most developed island. Indeed Manukan has become something of a victim of its own success, drawing hundreds of visitors on a busy day. That said, the beach is attractive, watersports are good and there’s a café serving a buffet (RM95) or à la carte meals – nasi lemak or curry laksa cost RM18. To escape the crowds, take the thirty-minute walk to Sunset Point.

Borneo Divers (wborneodivers.info) have a small dive shop, offering better prices to walk-in customers than you’ll get by booking ahead. Head out on the first boats of the day if that’s your plan; it’s much more cost-effective to do two or three dives than just one.

The last island of the group, Pulau Sulug, is the most remote and consequently the quietest, though its lovely coral makes it popular with divers. It has no facilities, and few boats visit.

Accommodation in Tunku Abdul Rahman Park

A lively street market is held along Jalan Gaya every Sunday morning, with stalls selling items as disparate as herbal teas, handicrafts, orchids and rabbits. In addition, a huddle of markets on the waterfront are open daily, and together form one of the city’s highlights. Approaching from the northeast, you first reach the labyrinthine Central Market , which includes a fish market that’s at its best very early in the morning. Next comes the Handicraft Market , also known as the Filipino Market thanks to the ethnicity of many of its stallholders. Around sundown, the area west of here becomes a gargantuan night food market ; further west still is the waterfront parade of bars and restaurants.

The other highlight of the complex, the ethnographic collection in the main building, includes human skulls dating from Sabah’s head-hunting days, and a sininggazanak , a totemic wooden figurine placed in the field of a Kadazan man who died without heirs. Photographs in the history gallery depict the city when Jalan Gaya still constituted the waterfront, lined with lean-tos thatched with nipah-palm leaves.

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Home » Travel Guides » Malaysia » 25 best things to do in Sabah (Malaysia)

25 best things to do in Sabah (Malaysia)

Sabah combines protected jungles with tropical islands spread in the South China, Sulu and Celebes Sea.

Jungle retreats, hundreds of kilometers of coastline and some of the world’s best diving spots feature in the East Malaysian state too. Throw in the chance to see wild orangutans, fireflies and carnivorous flowers.

Sabah is the pearl of Borneo with countless ecotourism activities and beach retreats. Visitors encounter unmatched biodiversity along jungle trails and have the chance to scale Malaysia’s tallest mountain.

Crazy Tourist explores the 25 best things to do in Sabah for nature, beaches and islands.

1. Mount Kinabalu: Malaysia’s granite beast

Mount Kinabalu

Sabah’s Mount Kinabalu (Gunung Kinabalu in Bahasa) is Borneo’s and Malaysia’s tallest peak.

Soaring to 4,095 meters (13,435 feet), it’s the highest point between the Himalayas and Papua New Guinea.

Travelers to Sabah immediately notice Kinabalu featuring on the state flag. It holds both deep ties to local Kazadan-Dusun indigenous people and ancient paganism.

Climbing Mount Kinabalu is a two-day affair. Day one involves hiking 3,272 meters (10,735 feet) to a hostel in Laban Rata. The second day starts at 2:00am to reach the summit in time for the sunrise.

Keep your eyes open for the changing landscapes, flowers and wildlife. Bring warm clothes for the higher altitudes.

Mount Kinabalu only permits a limited number of climbers each day. Places sell out months in advance.  Climbing Kinabalu in Sabah needs preparation to guarantee a spot.

2. Malaysia’s first Heritage Site: Kinabalu Park

Kinabalu Park

Kinabalu Park became Malaysia’s first UNESCO World Heritage site in 2000.

Covering an area of 754 square kilometers, the national park surrounds Mount Kinabalu in northwest Sabah. The tropical park is a biodiversity melting pot forming thousands of habitats.

More than 5,000 plants grow inside its borders including the carnivorous pitcher plants and colorful orchids. Kinabalu Park also houses the Rothschild slipper orchid ( Paphiopedilum rothschildianum ). This stripy flower is among the world’s rarest and most expensive orchids.

Over 300 birds, 100 species of mammals and several species of monkeys call Kinabalu Park home.

When combined, this makes the area one of the most important ecological zones on Earth.

3. Kota Kinabalu: A city on the sea

Kota Kinabalu Mosque

Kota Kinabalu, literally City of Kinabalu, is Sabah’s capital along the South China Sea.

Regular flights connect with Kuala Lumpur and other parts of Malaysian Borneo including Lahad Datu and Sandakan on the east coast.

For a capital city, Kota Kinabalu (KK for short) is tiny. But it packs a punch.

Travelers can visit the almost mirage-like Floating Mosque and stroll along the 5 kilometers (3.1 miles) Likas Bay. Or head to Signal Hill Observatory Platform for stunning views over KK.

Most visitors spend their time around Gaya Street, the city’s main stretch. Dozens of restaurants and a handful of bars fill the bustling street after dark.

Tourists often spend two or three days in KK before heading off to other parts of the state. Download the Grab Car App (Southeast Asia’s Uber) for convenient transport in the city.

4. The world famous Bornean sunset

Tanjung Aru Sunset

Borneo has a reputation for jungles, beaches and an almost guaranteed spectacular sunset.

As the sun dips, the horizon lights up with a blend of reds, oranges and purples. Watching on the beach is even more mesmerizing.

Kota Kinabalu’s Tanjung Aru is a short drive from the city center near the airport. The copper-orange sanded beach stretches against a border of bendy palm trees. Islands dominate the horizon.

Local families and tourists head down around 6:00pm.

5. Beaches, snorkeling and hiking on Kota Kinabalu’s islands

Manukan Island

Visiting Kota Kinabalu and skipping Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park is like missing the Petronas Towers in Kuala Lumpur.

Five islands (Gaya, Manukan, Mamutik, Sapi and Sulug) form the chain off the coast of Kota Kinabalu.

If you want beaches and snorkeling, head to the most popular Manukan Island. For light jungle trekking and to explore a floating village, visit Gaya.

The other three are more secluded with fewer tourists.

Regular speedboats connect Kota Kinabalu’s Jesselton Point with the marine park. Island-hopping trips are available too.

6. Zipline from one island to another

Coral Flyer Zipline

Ziplining has established itself as a favorite not-too-intense thrill-seeking activity.

Coral Flyer Zipline provides an experience found only in Sabah.

The zipline stretches 250 meters (820 feet) from Gaya Island to Sapi in Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park.

Strap yourself in and soar from one island to the next over the gentle azure South China Sea.

Apart from a shot of adrenaline, expect stunning views of the tiny archipelago and Sabah’s shoreline.

Remember to charge the Go Pro to capture Borneo’s longest zipline on film.

7. Sabah’s original Survivor Island

Pulau Tiga

TV series Survivor has become a household name covering 37 seasons since it first aired in 2000.

Season One took place on Sabah’s Pulau Tiga.

The island near Kota Kinabalu is just close enough to the mainland for easy access and far enough to feel like a desert island.

Since featuring on Survivor, Pulau Tiga (translating to ‘Three Islands’) allures the adventurous. Join a day tour and visit its mysterious mud volcanoes and sunbath on forgotten beaches.

Splash out for a night in either the ultra-luxurious Pulau Tiga Resort or Gaya Island Resort for a private beach getaway.

8. Cooler temperatures in Sabah’s highlands

Ranau Sabah

Ranau is Sabah’s version of West Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands.

The mountainous town sits at 1,176 meters (3,858 feet) a stone’s throw from Mount Kinabalu.

Locals flock for the cooler temperatures, fresher mountain air and to wake up with stunning views of Kinabalu.

Surrounding tea plantations form a sea of green. Stop by the cafés for a hot drink or high-tea with a view.

Dozens of trails penetrate the forests ranging from easy 30 minute hikes to several hour treks.

Ranau provides easy access to Kinabalu Park.

History fans can visit a memorial marking the final destination of WW2’s infamous Sandakan to Ranau Death March. More than 2,500 Australian and British prisoners of war lost their lives during three punishing marches.

9. The only place in Sabah where you’ll need a sweater

Kundasang

Kundasang holds the title as Sabah’s coldest town.

With an altitude of almost 2,000 meters (6,562 feet), temperatures regularly dip below 20°C.

Sabahans living the stifling lowlands make the two-hour journey from Kota Kinabalu for a mini-retreat. A few resorts cater to their needs.

Travelers often stop by for convenient access to Kinabalu Park which is just 6 kilometers (3.7 miles) from the town. Other highlights include fresh produce markets, views of Kinabalu and easy access to hiking trails.

10. Soak in Ranau’s natural spa

Hot Springs Ranau

Poring Hot Springs consist of a series of natural sulfuric pools near Ranau.

Hikers often stop by for a recuperating soak after climbing Mount Kinabalu. Others spend their time inside the spa-like complex.

But it’s not just about relaxation.

The family-friendly Butterfly Park is a highlight. Or hike to see the world’s largest (and smelliest) flower: Rafflesia.

Poring Hot Springs takes approximately 45 minutes by car to reach from Mount Kinabalu. The journey back to Kota Kinabalu is about two and a half hours.

11. The northernmost point of the world’s third largest island

Tip of Borneo

Borneo is the world’s third largest island. Visiting the northernmost point is a favorite day trip from Kota Kinabalu.

The ‘Tip of Borneo’ sits approximately 180 kilometers (112 miles) northeast of the capital in Kudat Town. Expect a three-hour drive through lush scenery, deserted shorelines and winding mountain roads.

In Kudat, a path leads to the northernmost point of Borneo. This is the spot where the South China Sea and the Sulu Sea meet.

Rocky outcrops form dramatic structures in the rough waters. Empty beaches are a short walk from Kudat Town.

12. Proboscis monkeys and fireflies

Kota Belud Monkeys

Kota Belud, a small town 70 kilometers (43 miles) from Kota Kinabalu, provides a glimpse into rural Sabah. Colorful bungalows sit next to two-storied traditional wooden houses.

The river meanders through the villages and hosts two other remarkable attractions.

Boats cruise along the river to find the rare proboscis monkeys. Others take passengers to watch the dancing fireflies after dark.

While seeing the primates isn’t a guarantee, holding a bright firefly in your hands almost certainly is.

13. Whitewater rafting in the jungle

Whitewater rafting Sabah

Sabah’s rugged landscapes burst with fast-flowing rivers and almost secret rapids.

This gives rise to adventure activities in the rainforest including white water rafting. Thrill-seeking travelers can attempt the rapids through the dense jungle landscapes.

Monkeys perch in the tree branches watching the rafters with curiosity. Sambar deer occasionally peak out of the foliage while hornbills soar above.

Tamparuli’s Kiulu River, less than an hour from Kota Kinabalu, has a 15-kilometre (9.3-mile) set of class I and II rapids. Beaufort’s Padas River caters towards the more experienced.

14. Proboscis monkeys and crocodiles on the Kinabatangan River

Kinabatangan River Crocodiles

River cruises along the 560 kilometer (348 miles) Kinabatangan River in East Sabah provide the chance to see Proboscis monkeys.

The unusual pot-bellied primates lurk with both their arms and legs spread in the mangrove branches. Certain parts of the Kinabatangan house Sabah’s largest population of these rare endemic species.

Most travelers spend the night in the riverside bungalows and chalets.

Join a river cruise in the afternoon for monkeys. Head out again after dark for crocodiles and the occasional pygmy elephant.

15. Meet orphaned orangutans at Sepilok Rehabilitation Center

Sepilok Rehabilitation Center

Borneo Island, along with Indonesian Sumatera, are the world’s only habitats for wild orangutans.

Sadly, deforestation and hunting threaten our orange-haired cousins.

Sepilok near Sandakan opened in 1964 becoming the world’s first orangutan rehabilitation center. The semi-wild enclosure adopts and nurtures the young and orphaned in a protected environment.

A boardwalk leads to a viewing platform. Feeding time at both 10:00am and 3:00pm entice the 75 resident orangutans out into the open.

Sepilok provides an almost guaranteed chance to see orangutans in their natural habitat.

16. Sabah’s first colonial capital

Sandakan

Sandakan in East Sabah became the capital of British North Borneo in 1879.

In 1946 after suffering destruction during WW2, the capital moved to present day Kota Kinabalu.

Because of the devastation, Sandakan lost most of its colonial architecture. But the little-visited city acts as a convenient point to visit Sepilok, Gomantong Cave and Selingan Turtle Island.

Sandakan itself has colorful Chinese temples, colonial-like churches and an English Tea House. The stilted Buli Sim Sim Water Village on the outskirts of the city is a favorite side trip.

17. Danum Valley: Sabah’s most biodiverse jungle

Danum Valley

Borneo’s globally acclaimed reputation for biodiversity can be attributed to Danum Valley in East Sabah.

Danum Valley Field Center is both a world-class conservation facility and ecotourism haven.

Located two hours into the 130-million-year-old rainforest from the nearest town Lahad Datu, the protected area has remained free of human settlements. This means the jungle is still the same today as it was millions of years ago.

Visitors can follow jungle trails with expert guides, climb up to canopy walks and join night safaris. Orangutans live near the Field Centre. Pygmy elephants sometimes roam nearby.

Those looking to splurge can stay in the eco-friendly bungalows. Prince William and Kate Middleton stayed in these when they visited Danum Valley in 2012.

Hostel beds and camping facilities cater towards the more budget conscious.

18. Explore where few people have explored at Maliau Basin

Maliau Basin

Maliau Basin in the heart of Sabah is among the least explored parts of the planet.

Most of the region remains unmapped.

The Maliau River flows through a basin, which rises 1,675 meters (5,495 feet). The geography and lack of human activity create an almost self-contained ecosystem.

Getting here takes time and patience. Those who do usually combine Maliau Basin with a trip to Danum Valley.

Hike to the summit, search for wildlife and swim in natural pools.

Only a handful of privileged souls have walked along the same trails before.

19. Sea Nomad villages at Semporna

Nomad villages at Semporna

East Sabah’s Semporna acts as a gateway to Tun Sakaran Marine Park and Sipadan Island.

Few international travelers make it this far unless they’re heading to the islands.

But Semporna provides a window into one of Southeast Asia’s most mysterious indigenous peoples: The Bajau.

Seafaring Bajau live on the water earning the nickname ‘Sea Nomads’ or ‘Sea Gypsies’.  With an uncanny ability to dive without equipment to the seabed, they’re an enigmatic part of Sabah.

Bajau floating villages, rickety wooden houses forming a neighborhood, line Semporna’s coast.

Take a water taxi and explore the mini-town above the water complete with shops, mosques and schools.

20. Sabah’s best diving on Sipidan Island

Sipidan Island

Sipadan Island upholds an international reputation with acclaimed divers.

The island near Semporna in East Sabah consistently gets voted among the world’s best diving spots. Tours ferry scuba fans to dozens of sites which houses countless species of marine life.

After a day in the sea, return to Sipadan’s tropical paradise. White beaches line the sandy atoll’s shores as jungle dominates its interior.

Because of Sipadan’s protected status, the marine park issues only 120 diving permits each day. Plan your trip and secure a placement at least three months in advance.

21. The most beautiful spot in Sabah

Bohey Dulang

Bohey Dulang on Bodhgaya Island in East Sabah’s Celebes Sea has a stunning sapphire-blue lagoon.

According to visitors, the small mountainous island is the Sabah’s most beautiful spot.

White-beaches line the coastlines with a thick jungle spreading over the center. Hike to its peak at 353 meters (1,158 feet) for the best views of the lagoon.

Bodgaya belongs to the Tun Sakaran Marine Park approximately 23 kilometers (14.3 miles) from Semporna Island.

22. A luxurious retreat on Lankayan Island

Lankayan Island

Lankayan Island offers a taste of Maldivian-style luxury in East Sabah.

The Lankayan Island Dive Resort is the island’s only resort inside the protected marine park. Overwater bungalows line the empty beaches offering guests a private section of sand and sea.

Visitors can relax on the beach, snorkel outside their bungalow or take diving trips to deeper waters.

Travel between June and September and witness turtles laying their eggs in the sand. Shortly afterwards, the babies escape the shells and scuttle across the sand towards the sea.

Lankayan Island is approximately 90 minutes from Sandakan by speedboat.

23. World-class diving on Mantanani

Mantanani

Mantanani Island in West Sabah has more than 20 relatively unexplored diving sites.

PADI-Certified travelers can join a tour which visits four or five sites as part of a day trip. Some burst with hundreds of colorful fish above the corals. Others lead to shipwrecks.

Apart from the underwater world, dugongs (sea cows) often swim in the warm tropical waters.

Either visit Mantanani Islands on a day trip from Kota Kinabalu. Or arrange a diving trip from one of the tour companies in the city.

24. Hiking in the jungle

Rainforest Sabah Hikers

Sabah’s biggest appeal is its easy access to the rainforest.

Visitors won’t face the same lengthy expeditions into the jungle as they would in the Amazon. Instead, it’s often possible to have a taste of the landscapes on a day trip.

Several hiking trails penetrate the forests near Kota Kinabalu. Longer ones lead around the jungle in Kinabalu Park.

Either join a tour from Kota Kinabalu. Or search online and hike with an informal group of locals.

25. Search for carnivorous plants

Rafflesia Flower

Sabah houses two unusual species of plants which resemble something out of a sci-fi movie.

Both Rafflesia and Pitcher Plants use sophisticated biology to entice insects towards them. When the bugs step inside, the flowers start to digest and absorb their flesh.

The carnivorous flowers are endemic to Borneo and Sabah.

Rafflesia, often called the Rotting Flesh Flower, is both the world’s largest and smelliest. The red giant releases a disgusting odor to mimic the smell of decomposing meat to attract insects.

Pitcher plants hang like an upside-down bell and allure their victims with a sweet scent.

Both are spectacular sights. Travelers can visit these weird lifeforms with the help of a guide.

25 best things to do in Sabah (Malaysia):

  • Mount Kinabalu: Malaysia’s granite beast
  • Malaysia’s first Heritage Site: Kinabalu Park
  • Kota Kinabalu: A city on the sea
  • The world famous Bornean sunset
  • Beaches, snorkeling and hiking on Kota Kinabalu’s islands
  • Zipline from one island to another
  • Sabah’s original Survivor Island
  • Cooler temperatures in Sabah’s highlands
  • The only place in Sabah where you’ll need a sweater
  • Soak in Ranau’s natural spa
  • The northernmost point of the world’s third largest island
  • Proboscis monkeys and fireflies
  • Whitewater rafting in the jungle
  • Proboscis monkeys and crocodiles on the Kinabatangan River
  • Meet orphaned orangutans at Sepilok Rehabilitation Center
  • Sabah’s first colonial capital
  • Danum Valley: Sabah’s most biodiverse jungle
  • Explore where few people have explored at Maliau Basin
  • Sea Nomad villages at Semporna
  • Sabah’s best diving on Sipidan Island
  • The most beautiful spot in Sabah
  • A luxurious retreat on Lankayan Island
  • World-class diving on Mantanani
  • Hiking in the jungle
  • Search for carnivorous plants

Tourist Map of Sabah

All destinations in sabah.

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sabah tourist map

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15 INCREDIBLE PLACES TO VISIT IN SABAH

Sabah is home of a myriad of wildlife, such as the orangutan, proboscis monkeys, macaques, and pygmy elephants. From climbing Mount Kinabalu, which is the tallest mountain in Malaysia, that sits in a UNESCO World Heritage site, to soaking in the natural hot springs of the Ranau Highlands, Sabah is full of natural wonders.

A trip to Sabah should include visits to the capital, Kota Kinabalu, and Sandakan, as there are some interesting places to visit in Sabah to attract history lovers. In 1879, Sandakan became the capital of British North Borneo and these days you can visit Chinese temples, churches and English tea. There are memorials dedicated to the brave Australian and British soldiers who lost their lives in Sandakan. Step back into history at Sandakan Memorial Park and the Kundasang War Memorial in Ranau to pay homage to the men who served during World War II.

Here are some other activities that you can expect on your trip to Sabah!

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Chill out on Mari Mari Sepangar Island, which is one of the best places to visit in in Sabah to enjoy a few hours downtime or to stay for a few days if time permits.

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Try your hand on a stand-up paddleboard (SUP) or dive the deeper ocean with the island’s experienced divemasters.

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Visit the Sabah Tea Gardens and take a tour around the mountain-based plantation.

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Try a fish foot massage and spa at Kampung Luanti, which is just a 2km drive from Sabah Tea Plantation.

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5 day sabah itinerary – full guide 2024 .

Island hopping in Kota Kinabalu drone beach

Table of Contents

This 5 day Sabah itinerary is a step-by-step guide for everything to do in Sabah in 2024. If you only have 5 short days in Sabah you will be surprised by how much you can see and do in this time. 

Sabah is packed with wildlife, beauty and adventure. This 5 day Sabah itinerary – starts in Kota Kinabalu and travels to Sandakan via the mountains. This itinerary finishes in Sandakan. From here you can either return to Kota Kinabalu by air, by land or travel elsewhere. 

We have included prices, locations and booking information to help you plan your trip independently and on a budget. Following a pre-booked tour that offers an itinerary like this would be super expensive. 

Follow our itinerary and you will save money and have an amazing trip. If you are planning to visit Sabah please read this itinerary carefully. In some cases we have included things that you really need to know before you go.

Got more time? You may be interested in our 10 day itinerary for Sabah

Summary – 5 day Sabah Itinerary

Day 1 cultural village, sabah state museum and a seafood market.

Day 2 Island hopping (Tunku Abdul Rahman Park)

Day 3 Outdoor adventure center, the Desa Dairy farm and mountain homestay

Day 4 hot springs, canopy walkway and rafflesia and travel to sandakan.

Day 5 Sandakan Orangutans, sunbears, proboscis monkeys and seafood 

MAP – Sabah Itinerary

sabah itinerary mari mari cultural village

This 5 day Sabah itinerary starts with some activities in Kota Kinabalu. Visit the Mari Mari Cultural Village. This is a great way to dip into the rich tribal heritage of Sabah. The Mari Mari cultural Village has traditional Sabah clothing, tribal art and jungle houses. They do performances showcasing traditional dance, games and music. 

sabah itinerary mari mari cultural village

The Mari Mari Cultural village is located approximately 18km to the east of Kota Kinabalu. The best way to get here from Kota Kinabalu is to take a taxi. You can book taxis using the Grab taxi app. This is likely to cost around RM30 each way.  Work out a price for your driver to wait or return to pick you up later. Don’t miss our Full and in-depth guide to using the Grab app in Malaysia .

The Mari Mari cultural village offer sessions daily at 10am and 2pm

  • Adults RM170 (or RM100 on offer)
  • Children RM 155 (or RM90 on offer)

After visiting the Mari Mari cultural village head back into Kota Kinabalu and take a visit to the Sabah State Museum. This is a great way to learn more about the culture, history and heritage of Sabah and much more. This is genuinely an interesting attraction to visit in Kota Kinabalu.

sabah tourist map

The Sabah State Museum is also relatively cheap to visit. Open daily from 9am – 5pm. As a foreigner you have to pay RM15 for a ticket. Malaysian tickets cost RM2. This is also a great activity in Kota Kinabalu for families with kids.

sabah tourist map

When you return to Kota Kinabalu try the Seafood market along the seafront. This market sells fresh seafood dishes and is a great way to experience some of the Sabah seafood. There are various places to get seafood along the sea front.

things to do in Sabah Kota Kinabalu seafood market

Food in Kota Kinabalu is relatively cheap. Most dishes cost around RM10. However seafood is a little more expensive. You generally pay be weight. Expect to pay around RM20 – RM50 for a typical seafood dish in Kota Kinabalu.

Day 2 Island hopping 

On day 2 we recommend an island hopping day trip from Kota Kinabalu . The island hopping trip visits some of the beautiful islands in the Tunku Abdul Rahman Park. This is a great way to enjoy some of the beautiful beaches near Kota Kinabalu. You can take island hopping trips that visit one, two, three or four islands in a single day. We recommend the three Island trip as it allows you to see plenty of beautiful islands at a good pace. 

Island hopping in Kota Kinabalu island hopping boat

An island hopping trip is likely to be between RM35 (roughly £7 or $10) to RM65 (roughly £13 or $15) depending how many islands you wish to visit. 

  • 1 island: Adult RM35 Child RM30
  • 2 island: Adult RM45 Child RM40
  • 3 island: Adult RM55 Child RM50
  • 4 island: Adult RM65 Child RM60

At the jetty there are ticket counters where you can buy tickets and rent masks, snorkels and fins. To organize an island hopping trip, turn up at the jetty between 8:00 a.m. and 10:00 a.m. 

Gaya island Kota Kinabalu Sabah

Rental of snorkel and fins should cost around RM10 and can also be arranged at the jetty. You also need to pay an island conservation fee of RM20. Keep the ticket as this can be presented at each island. Bring plenty of water and sun protection. On some of the islands you can buy simple food. However, there is not a lot of choice so we recommend bringing your own food along with you. The island hopping trip generally returns to Kota Kinabalu between 3pm – 5pm.

On day three of this Sabah itinerary you will travel to Kundasang which is a beautiful town in the mountains not too far from Kinabalu. 

Zip Borneo Adventure Centre

Zip borneo Sabah itinerary

If you love a good adrenaline rush head over to Zip Borneo – which is on the way to Kundasang. What’s more, if you have your own car it is pretty easy to get to the Zip Borneo Adventure center. This is roughly on route to Kundasang – you will need to take a short detour. Zip Borneo has a climbing wall, an obstacle course, high rope course and a zipline. Contact Zip Borneo Adventure Center in advance to arrange the activities. 

Desa Dairy farm

things to do in Sabah Desa Dairy farm

After Zip Borneo, continue your journey to Kundasang. Kundasang is a beautiful mountain town located near Mount Kinabalu. 

The journey from Kota Kinabalu to Kundasang is likely to take around 2 or 3 hours by road. In Kundasang visit the Desa Dairy farm , which is situated in the hills around 5km north of Kundasang. At the Desa Dairy farm you can enjoy amazing views of the mountains. Don’t miss the amazing Desa Dairy ice cream. Here are some things to do at the Desa dairy farm:

  • See the milking bay
  • Agro feeding pen activity
  • See the cattle barns
  • Learn about milk processing and packaging
  • Food kiosk and cafe

Entrance tickets for the Desa Dairy farm cost RM5 for adults, RM4 for children (7-12 years old), and it is FREE for children 6 years old and below.  The Desa dairy farm is open daily 8:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. 

Tickets are only available in advance and must be booked through their official ticket website .

Other things to do in Kundasang

BW bus restaurant Kundasang

After visiting the Desa dairy farm you can visit a local fruit and veg market located in Kundasang. They sell a range of fresh fruits and vegetables, a great way to experience the beautiful rural mountain culture. Also don’t miss the BW Bus Restaurant Kundasang. The bus restaurant offers scenic dining in converted buses with tables and chairs inside. 

We also recommend taking a homestay in the area. The Pogimpaan Homestay is our top pick with breathtaking views of Kinabalu and the surrounding hills. It is also great value for money. Don’t miss our FULL review of Pogimpaan Homestay .

Alternatively check out Zen Garden . 

things to do in Tioman raflessia

Day 4 of the Sabah itinerary is an action packed and adventurous day. Check out of your accommodation and do the epic activities in the morning. Travel on to Sandakan in the afternoon. 

Rafflesia gardens

Find out more about how to see the remarkable rafflesia flowers in Malaysia

Viana Rafflesia Garden Poring Sabah

The activities are all in a small town called Poring. On the road that leads to the hot springs there are a couple of Rafflesia gardens. If they do have flowers in bloom you can normally see them for around RM20. This is a very special experience as Rafflesia are very rare and only bloom for around 5 days. 

Hot springs

Poring hotsprings Sabah

After stopping at the Rafflesia Gardens, continue up the road to the Poring hot spring . At the top there are some pools that are almost too hot to touch (take care!) You can also see the source of the geothermal water. Lower down there are small hot spring baths that can be filled up using a tap, and some larger hot spring pools. There is a hot spring pool that is big enough to swim in close to the bottom.

The Poring hot springs are open daily from 8am – 3pm. Once you have paid for entry you can stay for the whole day: 

  • Adults RM15
  • Children (7 – 17 years old) RM10 
  • Children 6 years and below are FREE

Canopy walkway

sabah tourist map

You may also be interested in the canopy walkway . This impressive Poring canopy walkway is a series of rope bridges suspended high in the jungle canopy. Be aware it is high and pretty scary. 

You need to buy an additional ticket for the canopy walkway. Adult entry tickets RM5 and Children RM2.50 (under 18 years old) . Opening hours: 9am – 4pm (closed on mondays) 

Canopy walkway poring sabah

To get to the canopy walkway just walk to the top of the hot springs and look out for signs. It is only around 1 minute walk from the hot spring. From the ticket office you then need to hike up a steep jungle trail for around 10 minutes to get to the start of the course. 

In the afternoon, travel to Sandakan. Be prepared for an early start to head over to the Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary.  

This day is a lot easier if you have your own vehicle. If you do not have access to your own vehicle you will need to make the journey to Poring by taxi and arrange a bus to Sandakan in the afternoon. 

Day 5 Sandakan Orangutans, sunbears and seafood 

Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary Sandakan

On the last day of this 5 day Sabah itinerary visit the Sepilok orangutan rehabilitation center . At Sepilok there are around 60-80 orangutans living across 43 square kilometers of jungle. Sepilok has a wooden platform that leads through the jungle. There are no cages, fences or bars separating you from the jungle where the orangutans live. 

Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary cute baby orangutan

You can visit this center independently and do not need to pro-book any tickets. If you visit at feeding time there’s a good chance of seeing around 5 – 10 orangutans at the feeding platform. Sepilok has two daily feeding times and the orangutans gather at the feeding platform during these times: 10am and 3pm. We recommend arriving at least 30 minutes early as the orangutans also like to arrive early for their food. The platforms can be quite crowded at feeding time. If possible avoid weekends and public holidays. 

Large male orangutan sepilok Sandakan

Sometimes it is possible to see orangutans close up when they climb onto the walkway. There is also an orangutan nursery where you can see orphaned orangutans. 

Sepilok prices and details

  • RM30 Adults
  • RM15 Children (2 – 17 year olds)
  • RM10 camera fee (phone cameras FREE of charge). 

You can buy your entry tickets from the ticket office when you arrive. If you are planning to visit on a weekend or public holiday, arrive early to avoid waiting.

The Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary is open daily from 8.45am – 4pm (closed for lunch from 12pm – 2pm). 

Best place to see orangutans in Malaysia Sepilok

If you want to see an orangutan close up, arrive around 2pm. They can sometimes be found strolling around the wooden walkway waiting for food. There is a section of walkway where you may see orangutans arriving for feeding. This section of walkway is just past the viewing deck for the feeding platform. After seeing the orangutans you can also visit the Malaysian Sun Bear conservation project (it is right next to the orangutan sanctuary at Sepilok). 

Sepilok Sun bear conservation centre

Next get yourself over to the Labuk Bay Proboscis monkey sanctuary for one of their feeding times. Proboscis monkeys are seriously unique and fascinating. Best known for their long noses, these large primates live in the mangrove forests of Borneo.

proboscis monkey borneo sabah malaysia

If you plan to visit the Labuk Bay proboscis monkey sanctuary plan your visit carefully and visit during one of the feeding times. They have different feeding times at each of the platforms. The area is large and therefore you will need to make sure you have transport to get all of the way to the feeding platform. 

see proboscis monkeys baby female

The feeding times at Labuk Bay are as follows:

  • 9.30am and 2.30 pm at Platform A
  • 11.30 am and 4.30 pm at Platform B

If you arrive a little early you will probably see the proboscis monkeys gathering before feeding time.

  • RM60 for adult non-Malaysians
  • RM30 for non Malaysian children (12 years and below)
  • RM15 for Malaysian adults
  • RM5 for Malaysian children
  • Under 3 years old FREE

TOP TIP: You are not allowed to bring any bags into the Sepilok orangutan sanctuary. There is however a free locker area available to leave bags.

Sabah seafood

sabah itinerary sim sim 88 Sandakan

You may also be interested in a visit to Sim Sim 88. This is a beautiful seafood restaurant located on the coast in Sandakan. They have a range of fresh seafood dishes. The food here is expensive but very good. Many dishes cost in the range of RM50 – RM100 or more. 

A few things that aren’t on this 5 day Sabah itinerary 

There are also a few places we have not included on this 5 day Sabah itinerary. SO if you have longer or you want to change this itinerary – here are some other things to do in Sabah: 

Kinabatangan

Sabah itinerary Kinabatagan river

If you have more time you may be interested in a Kinabatangan River cruise. These beautiful River Cruises allow you to spot Wildlife along the banks of this wild river. There is a very good chance of seeing proboscis monkeys and if you’re lucky you may also be able to see wild orangutans. If you have more time in Sabah we recommend looking into doing one of these river cruises.

Danum valley

Large tree Malaysia national park

We have missed out the Danum Valley conservation area. Although this is a very beautiful area, it is a little bit out of the way and we don’t think it adds a sufficient amount to this itinerary to include it. However, if you do have more time this would be a great place to visit.

Semporna and Marbul

sea turtle marbul snorkeling diving

We have also skipped Semporna and Mabul. This is a stunning area for snorkeling and diving. However, traveling over to Semporna and Mabul adds too much time to make this viable in 5 days. However, if you’re determined to see this beautiful area you could just ignore our itinerary and focus on this area instead. Alternatively plan a little longer in Sabah and make some time to visit Semporna and Mabul. 

THE BEST places to stay for this 5 day Sabah itinerary

Kota kinabalu (day 1 and day 2).

Le Meridien hotel Kota Kinabalu

If you’re on a budget book a bunk bed at Escape Backpackers – super cheap, simple and well located. You can find Escape Backpackers on Agoda and on Booking.com . Alternatively, consider the Horizon Hotel for a great mid-range option. Horizon are also on Agoda AND booking.com . If you’re looking to splash out for something really special check out Le Meridien. Watch out for amazing deals and discounts at Le Meridien on Agoda . Alternatively you can book Le Meridien on Booking.com too.

Kundasang (day 3)

Kundasang homestay

Our top pick in Kundasang is the beautiful and very affordable Pogimpaan Homestay – very simple and beautiful. Find Pogimpaan on Agoda or Reserve Pogimpaan on Booking.com . Also Zen Garden is a nice option in the area. Zen Garden are also on Agoda and booking.com .

Sandakan (day 4 and day 5)

sabah tourist map

If you’re traveling on a budget check out the Sandakan Backpackers Hostel. Sandakan backpackers are on Agoda . Check prices for Sandakan Backpackers on Booking.com . If you have a bigger budget and want to stay near the Orangutan Rehabilitation Center check out the Sepilok Forest Edge Resort. Keep an eye out for deals at Forest Edge on Agoda . Also check the latest prices at Forest Edge on Booking.com .

How do you get around in Sabah?

Sabah itinerary long distance bus

This 5 day Sabah itinerary crosses some big distances. So it’s important to plan how you will get around in Sabah.

The most convenient way to get around in Sabah is to use your own vehicle. If you are able to rent a car for a reasonable price this will make the itinerary straightforward to follow. Expect to pay around RM80 – RM150 per day for car rental in Sabah. 

CHECK SKYSCANNER for great car rental deals…

There are also long distance buses around Sabah. Long distance buses are reasonably comfortable and very affordable. Most long distance bus Journeys around Sabah cost around RM20 to RM50 depending on the bus company and the length of the journey. Also, be aware that long distance buses in Malaysia do not generally have toilets on board although there are a few exceptions.

If you are planning to get around by long distance buses, you will need to use taxis for local journeys. When you are planning your budget be aware that this could add up and be more expensive than car rental.

Don’t miss our FULL GUIDE on THE BEST things to do in Sabah

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Life loving, adventure chasing, Mum of 3 who loves travel. Over 10 years of travel writing experience. Emma now loves to give the best tips to help other travel loving parents plan adventures with their kids. Whether you need to find the best accommodation or just need to know how to pack your bag Emma is that travelling mum who love to help you.

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12 Top Tourist Attractions in Kota Kinabalu

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Lying on the northwest coast of Borneo, the Malaysian city of Kota Kinabalu is an increasingly popular tourist destination, and it is easy to see why. Besides its scenic waterfront that borders the South China Sea and bustles with life, visitors can delve into its thriving arts and culture scene or explore its excellent market.

Although it is one of the fastest-growing cities in the country, with new developments seeming to pop up every day, it still retains much of its considerable charm, with plenty of interesting historical sights and old buildings on show.

While the city center has a lot for you to see and do, KK (as it is commonly known) also boasts a wealth of astounding natural tourist attractions, with beautiful beaches, verdant rainforest, and idyllic tropical islands all found nearby. Now much more than just the administrative, industrial, and commercial capital of the region, Kota Kinabalu is a destination in its own right and the gateway to untold riches.

12. Atkinson Clock Tower

atkinson clock tower

As it was remarkably one of only two structures to survive the violent bombing of Kota Kinabalu that took place during World War II, Atkinson Clock Tower is one of the city’s most important and oldest landmarks. Built all the way back in 1902, the dazzlingly bright white clock tower is named after Francis George Atkinson. This man was the first District Officer of Jesselton – KK’s colonial name – who sadly died at just twenty-eight years of age after having helped establish the city.

Set in a picturesque spot upon a hilltop overlooking the waterfront, the clock tower has some great views out over the sea for you to enjoy; Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park can be spotted in the distance.

11. Signal Hill Observatory Platform

Signal Hill Observatory Platform

Lying just a short walk away from the Atkinson Clock Tower, the distinctive-looking Signal Hill Observatory Platform is a great place to head to if you’re looking for a spectacular view out over Kota Kinabalu. Nestled amongst the forest that coats the hillside, the observatory’s two white circular roofs certainly stand out against the foliage.

From its viewing platform, you have uninterrupted views out over the city below. The best yet busiest time of day to visit is at sunset, when the islands and sea sparkle in the light of the setting sun.

10. Kota Kinabalu Waterfront

Kota Kinabalu Waterfront

Dotted with bars and restaurants, nightclubs and cafes, Kota Kinabalu Waterfront is one of the liveliest parts of the city and is busy at any time of day. With shopping malls and hotels also located along the KK Waterfront, it is a microcosm of the city itself, as it has everything you could ever want right there.

As night falls, people descend en masse to the waterfront to enjoy some delicious local food, live music, or cocktails. The lively atmosphere is intoxicating. Many of its establishments have brilliant views out over the sea and are a great place to watch the sunset.

9. Sabah State Museum

Sabah State Museum

A fascinating place to explore, the Sabah State Museum has a lot of interesting artifacts and collections that look at various aspects of the rich history, heritage, and culture of Sabah – the state in which Kota Kinabalu is located.

As the fantastic Sabah Art Gallery and brilliant Science and Technology Museum are also found at the site, the museum complex has something for everyone to enjoy and is particularly ideal for families.

With galleries on Islamic civilization and archaeology alongside ethnographic and zoological displays, the Sabah State Museum provides a comprehensive look at everything to do with Sabah and the city of Kota Kinabalu.

8. North Borneo Railway

North Borneo Railway

Running from Tanjung Aru Station to Papar Town, the North Borneo Railway is a delight to ride along. The historic route takes you through some beautiful steamy jungle scenery, with stupendous views out over the coast popping up from time to time.

Originally founded in 1896 to ferry tobacco around the state, the scenic ride now makes for a popular day out, and the service runs twice a week on Wednesdays and Saturdays. While basking in the marvelous views, visitors can sit back and relax in one of the old carriages that trundle along behind the steam engine and enjoy the delicious ‘tiffin’ colonial lunch that is served aboard the train.

7. Night Market

Night Market

Great fun to wander around, Kota Kinabalu’s lively night market is not to be missed as it has some of the best seafood and street food around. The multitude of stalls that line the waterfront are laden with stacks of fish, meat, and local delicacies for you to try out. The enticing aromas swirling through the air will make your mouth water.

Once you’ve made the hard choice of what to eat, take a seat at one of the many tables that lie beneath the row of gazebos and wait for your food to appear. As loads of locals come here for dinner, the night market is a great place to immerse yourself in local life and enjoy the chaotic ambiance.

6. Kota Kinabalu City Mosque

Kota Kinabalu City Mosque

As it is set on Likas Bay with water partially surrounding it, Kota Kinabalu City Mosque is often referred to as the ‘Floating Mosque’ due to the illusion that it is bobbing peacefully on the surface. Reflected in the glassy waters that lie around it, the mosque looks incredible, and it’s no wonder that people flock to take pictures of it.

While its stunning setting is one of its main draws, the architecture is equally delightful, with four elegant minarets rising above its blue and gold dome. The largest and most beautiful mosque in the city, Kota Kinabalu City Mosque is also well worth visiting at night, when the lights that illuminate it are magnificently reflected in the waters around it.

5. Gaya Street Sunday Market

Gaya Street Sunday Market

Kota Kinabalu’s Gaya Street is where the city’s Chinatown is located. It is here on Sundays that a fun and festive street market is held. The ramshackle collection of stands and stalls is a great place to pick up souvenirs. Vendors sell local handicrafts, antiques, and accessories, with jewelry and clothes particularly popular purchases.

As the market finishes at 1 PM, it’s a good idea to head to Gaya Street quite early on; many of the stalls are there from as early as 6.30 AM. Afterward, you can always head to one of the surrounding Chinese restaurants and coffee shops to admire your buys and grab a bite to eat.

4. Tanjung Aru Beach

Tanjung Aru Beach

Lying around a 20-minute drive from the city center, Tanjung Aru Beach is a delightful place to kick back and unwind. Its golden sands look out over the South China Sea, with Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park lying in the distance. Here you can go swimming, enjoy some fantastic water sports, or simply sunbathe to your heart’s content.

As it is the most popular beach in Kota Kinabalu among locals, it can get quite crowded during the weekend, when people come to have a picnic or barbecue as the sun sets over the sea. With loads of bars and food stalls lining Tanjung Aru Beach, you can easily spend the whole day here, and there is lots of delicious local food and snacks to be had.

3. Mari Mari Cultural Village

Mari Mari Cultural Village

For people interested in learning more about the rich history and culture of the state of Sabah’s many indigenous groups, no visit to Kota Kinabalu is complete without stopping by the Mari Mari Cultural Village. Located in the lush jungle that lies the northeast of the city, the themed village has five tribal areas for you to explore; these provide a look at how different groups once lived as hunters, fishers, and rice farmers.

As well as showing you their various lifestyles, traditions, and customs, you can also learn how to cook some of their meals and make some of their local handicrafts. At the end of the tour around the Mari Mari Cultural Village, there is a 30-minute cultural dance performance for you to enjoy.

2. Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park

Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park

Established in 1974, Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park is home to five of the most idyllic islands imaginable. It is justifiably one of the most popular tourist attractions in Kota Kinabalu and the state at large. Lying just a short boat trip away from KK, the marine park has a myriad of fantastic outdoor activities for you to enjoy, with snorkeling and scuba diving being the most popular.

Besides exploring its underwater wonders, visitors can go on a hike through the dense jungle that blankets the islands, or relax and lounge on one of its many gorgeous sandy beaches.

Each of the islands has its own unique appeal, so while Sulug is popular with people looking for an untouched island paradise, it is better to head to Manukan or Sapi if you want amenities, hotels, and restaurants. A biodiversity hotspot both above and below water, Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park is not to be missed out on for all the amazing scenery and waters sports it has to offer.

1. Mount Kinabalu

Mount Kinabalu

Surrounded by a wild and rugged national park of the same name, Mount Kinabalu stretches dramatically towards the heavens from amid the enormous Crocker Range that dominates Borneo’s skyline. Standing at 4,095 meters, the Malay Archipelago’s highest mountain is very popular with both hikers and rock climbers. It is said to be one of the easiest mountains in the world to summit, as no climbing equipment or special skills are required.

While it is just about doable in a day from Kota Kinabalu, most people camp overnight at Laban Rata to acclimatize, then continue on their way to the top the next day. On the way, you pass through a variety of different landscapes ranging from grasslands and forest to alpine meadows and bare rock.

Mount Kinabalu is one of the most biodiverse places on Earth. With around 6,000 plant species and over 300 types of bird for you to catch a glimpse of, there is always something new for you to see along the hike.

Once you finally make it to the top, you’ll be greeted by one of the most stunning views imaginable as the whole of Borneo stretches away before you. Well worth the effort, hiking to the top of Mount Kinabalu certainly makes for a memorable experience.

Best Time to Visit Kota Kinabalu

While Kota Kinabalu remains hot and humid the whole year, its setting by the sea backed by steamy tropical rainforest means its climate is rarely unbearable. Both frequent sea breezes and rain showers cool things down with January to April being the driest period.

As it rains a lot less, this is one of the most popular times to visit. Many sunbathe, swim and scuba dive or go white water rafting and hiking in its jungles or up to Mount Kinabalu. These months are more expensive and crowded with fun events like Chinese New Year and the KK Jazz Festival also taking place.

December is KK’s absolute peak season despite the weather being rainy and unpredictable. Prices are at their highest due to the holidays with its hotels and beaches all packed. A lively atmosphere reigns over everywhere.

As May to November is the rainy season, the number of visitors drops considerably. July and August are exceptions due to the school holidays and National Day festivities. Temperatures remain at 30 or 31°C (86 to 88°F) but downpours make sightseeing less pleasant. Just bring an umbrella and you’ll be fine. Tourists also head here for the Sabah Festival in May and for Diwali in autumn.

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Malaysia Airlines cancels Sabah, Sarawak flights due to Mt Ruang eruption

  • Sabah & Sarawak

Thursday, 18 Apr 2024

Related News

Sabah celebrates Aidilfitri Madani

Sabah celebrates Aidilfitri Madani

Aidilfitri madani 2024 celebration takes centre stage in sabah, over 10 names submitted for sabah pkr chief post, says anwar.

PETALING JAYA: Flights from Kuala Lumpur to destinations in Sabah and Sarawak have been cancelled due to the eruption of Mount Ruang in Indonesia, says Malaysia Airlines (MAB).

It said this in a post on its official Facebook page, in which it gave a list of all flights affected. These flights are;

To/from Sabah

  • MH7420 (KUL-TWU)
  • MH7421 (TWU-KUL)
  • MH2612 (KUL-BKI)
  • MH2621 (BKI-KUL)
  • MH2710 (KUL-SDK)
  • MH2711 (SDK-KUL)
  • MH2610 (KUL-BKI)
  • MH2611 (BKI-KUL)
  • MH7404 (KUL-BKI)
  • MH7405 (BKI-KUL)
  • MH2613 (BKI-KUL)

To/from Sarawak

  • MH2520 (KUL-KCH)
  • MH2513 (KCH-KUL)
  • MH2542 (KUL-KCH)
  • MH2543 (KCH-KUL)
  • MH2574 (KUL-MYY)
  • MH2575 (MYY-KUL)
  • MH2742 (KUL-BTU)
  • MH2473 (BTU-KUL)

"Concurrently, the airline is working to accommodate passengers affected by the cancellation of flights on alternative flights once the situation progressively improves," added MAB.

It said that it is continuing to closely monitor developments and will issue further updates on flight cancellations on its social media pages along with communicating information directly to affected customers.

"Passengers are urged to update their contact details via My Booking on Malaysia Airlines’ website to receive timely updates from time to time via email and SMS.

The safety of our passengers and crew remains of utmost importance to Malaysia Airlines," it said.

Related stories:

Tags / Keywords: Flights , Flight cancellations , Malaysia Airlines , Sabah , Sarawak , Volcano eruption , Destinations , Alert , Mount Ruang

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