broadway travel cape verde

Image by Franck Guiziou / Getty Images

Jutting up from the Atlantic, some 311 miles (500km) west of Senegal, Cabo Verde is a stunning island chain with a captivating blend of mountains, beaches and peaceful seaside villages. On Santo Antão, craggy peaks hide piercing green valleys of flowers and sugar cane, ideal for epic hikes.

Attractions

Must-see attractions.

Pico do Fogo

Cabo Verde's highest peak (2829m/9382ft), the conical, cinder-clad Mt Fogo, rises dramatically out of the floor of an ancient crater known as Chã das…

Dja'r Fogo

A must-stop for visitors interested in history, culture and coffee, Dja'r Fogo is run by a local artist who splits his time between Lisbon, Paris and Fogo…

Tarrafal Concentration Camp

On the main highway about 1km before the centre of Tarrafal is the ominous former Tarrafal Concentration Camp. Here Portuguese authorities used to hold…

Pedra do Lume

A great attraction is this surreal, lunarlike crater of an ancient volcano, where seawater is transformed into shimmering salt beds. You can see the old…

Museu do Mar

Inside the Torre de Belém, Mindelo's most intriguing museum gives an overview of São Vicente's history, from the island's role in the triangular trade to…

Museu Municipal

Pop into this airy colonial mansion with two floors of exhibits, showcasing old photographs, traditional music instruments, sewing machines and sundry…

Sala-Museu Amilcar Cabral

This small museum and foundation is dedicated to preserving the memory of freedom fighter Amilcar Cabral (1924–73). Photographs and other memorabilia shed…

Praia de Estoril

A short stroll south of the Sal Rei town centre, this lovely beach has turquoise waters and white sands, making it a fine setting for a day out. A handful…

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Sustainable Travel

Nov 15, 2017 • 2 min read

The petite island archipelago nation of Cabo Verde (formerly Cape Verde), which floats almost 600km off the coast of Senegal in West Africa, has set an…

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A beginner's guide to Cape Verde

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written by Georgia Stephens

updated 12.02.2019

Eternally sun-soaked and sculpted by the elements, Cape Verde – almost 600km off the west coast of Africa – is far more than just a destination for reliable winter warmth. Its islands (Santo Antão, São Vicente, Santa Luzia, São Nicolau, Sal, Boa Vista, Maio, Santiago, Fogo and Brava) seem to go from one environmental extreme to another, offering visitors everything from undulating sand dunes to forest-swathed mountains and everything in between – even an active volcano. Here’s everything you need to know about exploring this utterly unique African archipelago.

Our guide to Cape Verde

(Continued below...)

Let’s start with the basics, as it’s safe to say that many would struggle to point to Cape Verde on a map. If you find yourself floundering, look for the Canary Islands and let your gaze drift southwest for 1,000km, or simply strike out into the Atlantic from Senegal and keep going west until you make landfall. It’s an isolated island chain, that’s for sure.

A brief history of the islands

Any visitor to the islands needs to know a little about Cape Verde’s fascinating – albeit tragic – history. For a long time, the islands were completely uninhabited, save perhaps for the turtles that arrive seasonally to nest. But in 1456, Cape Verde was discovered by Portuguese sailors who, realising its strategic position, quickly settled and built it into an outpost for the slave trade.

Over the years, the descendants of slavers and slaves developed a unique Creole culture on Cape Verde, not quite African, not quite European. The people who live here are still around seventy percent mixed race, speak a mixture of Portuguese and Creole, and use the Euro alongside the Cape Verdean Escudo.

Tarrafal beach on Santiago island in Cape Verde © Samuel Borges Photography/Shutterstock

Which islands should I visit?

Sal and boa vista.

A couple of islands over, Santiago is the largest in the archipelago and home to over half of Cape Verde’s population. It was the first island to be settled by the Portuguese and is considered the most African in culture. Don’t miss the lively market in the capital city of Praia, where you can buy all kinds of fish, spices and fresh produce.

Fogo , meanwhile, is instantly recognisable thanks to the simmering volcano at its heart, which last erupted in 2014. The local population, many of which are descended from the same promiscuous French nobleman, still live amid its lava flows and cinder cones, perched on steep slopes overlooking black sand beaches.

São Vicente

To the north, São Vicente is the islands’ cultural capital and home to Mindelo, Cape Verde’s prettiest and most sophisticated city. Over the years it’s been frequented by poets, free-thinkers and artistic types, including famous Cape Verdean singer Cesária Évora. The island is known for its vibrant nightlife, and every August it hosts the Baia das Gatas Festival, a three-day extravaganza of local music.

Santo Antão

Finally, Santo Antão is the remotest island in this remote island chain. It is the polar opposite of Sal and Boa Vista, characterised by towering peaks, terraced fields and thick forests full of banana palms and papaya trees. If you were wondering how Cabo Verde (literally “Cape Green”) earned its name, you’ll probably find some clues here.

Santo Antao, Cape Verde © Plrang Art/Shutterstock

What things shouldn’t I miss?

First off, the island of Sal takes its name from its historic salt production, and you can see how it was produced at Pedra de Lume on the island. Here, you’ll find a sea of shimmering salt lakes in the crater of an extinct volcano, alongside the crumbling machinery once used for salt extraction. Take a dip in the medicinal waters and, thanks to the salt, you’ll float like a cork.

You can pair this visit with a trip to Shark Bay , which is also on Sal. You can wade out into the ocean to join a school of lemon sharks, which cruise up and down this area hunting for fish. While the sharks aren’t a threat to people, it’s still exhilarating watching their fins slicing through the waves. Make sure you hire a pair of water shoes on the beach, as the rocks here can be sharp.

On Fogo, it’s possible to climb Pico do Fogo , Cape Verde’s only active volcano and highest peak (2829m). It's a three to six hour walk, depending on your fitness. The paths can shift with the movement of the knee-deep ash, so it’s worth hiring a guide to take you up to the crater. Some of the guides experienced the 2014 eruption first hand, and their tales make for fascinating, albeit unsettling, listening.

Over on Santiago, the highlight is the UNESCO-listed city of Cidade Velha (once known as Ribeira Grande), built by the Portuguese in 1462 as the first European settlement in the tropics. It was at one point Cape Verde’s capital, and you can still see the remains of its fortress, churches and town square, where disobedient slaves were punished. It only flourished until 1770, when sustained pirate attacks led the Portuguese to name nearby Praia Cape Verde’s capital instead.

Cidade Velha old fort on Santiago Island, Cape Verde © Samuel Borges Photography/Shutterstock

What about the food?

Unsurprisingly, Cape Verde is best known for its fresh seafood, which can go from ocean to plate in a matter of hours. You’ll find dorado, wahoo, snapper, scorpionfish and tuna alongside a multitude of other delicacies on menus across the islands, often served under the ubiquitous ‘fish of the day’ label with a side of chips or rice.

Alternatively, try the Cape Verdean speciality cachupa , a hearty stew simmered for hours with beans, herbs, cassava and sometimes meat. As it takes a long time to prepare, it’s usually only available for one or two days each week, so grab it when you see it. If you’re feeling brave, wash it down with a glass of grogue , a strong traditional tipple hailing from the maritime days made by a small, family-run distillery on Santo Antão.

Cachupa, a classic slow-cooked Cape Verdean dish © AS Food studio/Shutterstock

Anything else I need to know before I go?

Cape Verde is a year-round destination, with temperatures rarely dipping below 20°C, though it’s best to avoid the rainy season between July and October.

There are international airports on Sal, Santiago, Boa Vista and São Vicente. You can get around the islands cheaply by taking one of the ferries, but they are typically slow and unreliable, and the crossings can be rough. Instead, you can fly between most of the islands with Binter Cabo Verde .

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Visit all 10 Islands in the Amazing Archipelago of Cape Verde

My name’s Coumba and welcome to my travel guide on the amazing Cape Verde. I’m originally from Senegal. I moved to Niger with my family when I was 8 for my parents job. My travel adventures started from then on.

After 10 years in Niger, I went to study in France for a few years and then moved to the UK for a year abroad. I came back to France to finish my studies and travelled to Tahiti, French Polynesia for 6 months and to Johannesburg, South Africa for a further 6 months.

I even made it to Morocco for a year and a half. Now I am in Cape Verde. My love for travel really kicked off when I moved to the UK. It’s got to the point now where I feel like I can’t stay still. I’m always on the move, looking for new destinations to settle but only for a little while.

As for photography, I guess it came along the way while I was documenting my trips and sharing pictures on social media. It was just for fun and it still is. But now I really want to share my experiences, inspire people to discover new destinations and explore through my eyes.

The advantage of being an expat is that we can dig deeper into the different cultures and really get to understand them. My aim, with Amazing Passport, is also to show that despite my “weak passport” it is not that hard to discover the world and even be an expat.

Why Cape Verde should be on your Bucket List

Many people don’t know where Cape Verde is located on a map. They have never heard about it or think it’s located somewhere in the Caribbean. I didn’t know much about Cape Verde myself before moving here. I knew how to locate it on a map but not really what to expect.

As we say here, Cape Verde is “1 country, 10 destinations”. It’s an African archipelago in the Atlantic Ocean made up of 10 different islands. Each of these islands is totally unique and beautiful in its own way.

What I love about Cape Verde and Sal (where I live) is definitely the “vibe”. I guess it’s just “island life”. People are laid back, very nice and welcoming. The melting-pot of cultures is also another amazing part of Cape Verde. There’s African, Brazilian and Portuguese influences all mixed together.

Due to the country’s rich history, it has many different influences that can be found in everything from gastronomy to music and fashion.

Cape Verde Travel Guide: My Favourite Places

So far I haven’t visited all of the islands yet but I am eager to do it soon. I love Palmeira on Sal Island the most. It’s a small fisherman village with colourful houses, a nice atmosphere and music is always playing. You have the best fish in Africa here in a local restaurant by the pier.

I love Shark Bay too where one can paddle with lemon sharks. It’s such a cool feeling. In Boa Vista, my favourite area is Morro de Areia Nature Reserve. The landscape is incredible with sand dunes over the ocean. The scene is calm and peaceful (well at least by myself, there were no tourists).

10 Best Things To Do in Cape Verde

I recommend island hopping and discovering every single island when you visit Cape Verde. There are 10 islands that make up the archipelago. To be honest, I have heard so much about these places and I can’t wait to see them all myself. Let me introduce them to you below:

1. Visit Sal, The Beach-Lovers Paradise

Sal is where I currently live so if you visit Cape Verde make sure you come here first and say hi! This island is one the most popular islands for tourists due to the beaches. As I said, Palmeira fishing village is amazing and if you come in September be sure to check out the Santa Maria Music Festival.

2. Party in São Vicente, The Cultural Heart of Cape Verde

São Vicente is considered the cultural capital of the archipelago. Many artists come from this amazing island including the most famous Cape Verdean singer, Cesária Évora. It’s also home to many great restaurants, bars and nightclubs. Plus the colourful Mindelo Carnival is not to be missed for its spectacle of music, dance and parades.

3. Explore the Unspoilt São Nicolau Island

This gem of an island is yet to be spoilt by tourism. In fact, it may be the best kept secret in all of Cape Verde. The barren ranges of the island offer some spectacular views on hiking trips as well as horse riding adventure. Then the capital, Ribeira Brava is a colonial town well worth a visit.

4. Marvel at the “Island of the Flowers” – Brava

Another hidden gem of Cape Verde is the island known as Brava . This teeny-tiny island is home to some beautiful flora and fauna and towering lava cliffs that will take your breath away. The best way to experience the island is by going on long walks through its mountainous terrain.

5. Relax at the Spectacular Beaches of Maio

Maio has terrain that resembles much of Boa Vista and Sal, especially some of the beaches. Discover stretches of unspoilt coastline which are perfect for sunbathing, swimming and snorkelling. Another fantastic aspect about Maio is that there are only 4000 locals, making it a relaxing place to visit.

6. Immerse yourself in the History of Santiago

The largest island of Cape Verde is a place called Santiago . It’s home to the historic capital city, Praia and the country’s old capital, Cidade Velha. The latter was the first city to be built by Europeans in West Africa and today is recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

7. See Fogo with its Dramatic Volcanic Landscapes

Fogo is situated in the south-west of the archipelago and is famous for its dramatic volcanic landscapes. These incredible volcanoes should be included in every travel guide to Cape Verde. Pico do Fogo stands at an impressive 2,829 metres and dominates the island in a magnificent way.

8. Get Off-the-Beaten-Track at Santa Luzia

This island is one of the driest and most barren places on earth. For this reason, Santa Luzia remains uninhabited. Although you can still visit on a boat trip from São Vicent which takes roughly two hours. The beaches and sand dunes in the south are quite stunning and are fun to visit for the day.

9. Discover Pure Paradise at Boa Vista

Boa Vista is the very definition of paradise. The island is blessed with miles and miles of golden sand, crystal-clear waters and a chilled-out environment. Here you can relax at some of the best beaches in Cape Verde and get your adrenaline pumping with some fun water activities.

10. Take Epic Adventures at Santo Antão

Imagine an island where massive green peaks and fertile craters are just a stone’s throw away from towns that literally hang on the edge of cliffs. That’s Santo Antão. There are endless adventures to enjoy here such as epic coastal drives, long hiking trips and stunning camping spots.

Cape Verde Travel Guide: People, Culture and Food

Cape Verdeans are very hospitable people. The “morabeza” spirit is a real thing. It means gentleness and kindness, like a softer way of living.

What I like most about the culture of Cape Verde is the hospitality, the chill vibe and the “no stress” motto. What’s better than having a drink on the beach, music playing in the background and people playing volleyball or soccer or going for a kitesurf? Life is simple and amazing.

When it comes to food, the typical national dish is called Cachupa . It’s a stew with corn, beans, vegetables, meat and Cape Verdean chorizo. There are a few different types of this dish to enjoy. However, my favourite dish is fish and seafood straight from the pier. The octopus is really to die for!

Cape Verde Travel Guide: Best Places to Stay

Cape Verde is untouched and authentic. But tourism is booming and people are getting to know it more and more. Sal is the most touristic island in Cape Verde. There are several hotels, including international ones.

The archipelago is still seen as an all-inclusive destination, therefore there are quite a few of these huge resorts but also non all-inclusive hotels like Hilton. There is every type of accommodation here – luxury, budget, Airbnb, etc. Most hotels are in Sal and Boa Vista.

On the lesser visited islands, there are more guesthouses, lodges and small hotels. No matter your preference, you’ll find something perfect for you.

What you Need to Know Before you Go

My advice to anyone wanting to visit Cape Verde is always: don’t be afraid of the unknown, get out of your comfort zone and try to stay with locals. Not for the safety aspect, because Cape Verde is a safe country, but for the stories they have to share and for their expertise of the place.

Locals are the ones who can take you to the best places in Cape Verde. They can show you the surroundings off-the-beaten-track and turn your experience from an ordinary one into an extraordinary one.

Thanks for reading my travel guide on Cape Verde. I hope it has inspired you to visit one of the most remarkable and beautiful places on earth!

BY COUMBA IG: @AMAZINGPASSPORT

Author:  Coumba

Coumba is a blogger, Instagrammer, travel curator and hotelier who was born in Senegal but resides in the amazing Cape Verde. She loves travel, photography and adventures.

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How to get to Cape Verde?

Find out if your country flies to Cape Verde and in which airlines you can book the flight. If you’re already in Cape Verde find out all the domestic flights and respective airlines.

Explore Cabo Verde

Sun and beach, mountain trails, landscapes of a nature that so easily springs up everywhere and a wealth of customs and traditions that does not translate into any price: Cabo Verde is a paradise that rests by the sea .

With the morabeza of the people and the magic that is only found in Islands of sun and sea, this archipelago is a universe of experiences to discover.

Flavors, smells and colors permeate memories and here you can feel the warm breeze on the skin and the sweetness of life.

Sun & Beach in Cape Verde

Nature & Adventure in Cape Verde

Nautic Tourism in Cape Verde

Culture & Art in Cape Verde

Cruises in Cape Verde

Circuits in Cape Verde

Vacation for Couples in Cape Verde

Cabo Verde is an excellent destination for couples, thanks to its unique combination of natural beauty, paradise beaches, hot climate, year-round sunshine and a relaxed and romantic atmosphere.

The climate is consistently warm and tropical all year round with average temperatures ranging from 24°C to 30°C. This makes it the perfect escape for those seeking warmer climates and a break from more unpredictable weather elsewhere.

Vacation for Families in Cape Verde

Cabo Verde is known for having a hot and dry climate for most of the year, making it a perfect destination for families who want to enjoy the sun and beach. On the islands, some of the world's most beautiful beaches can be found, known for their crystal-clear waters and white sands, ideal for swimming, relaxing and practicing water activities.

Backpackers in Cape Verde

Year after year, Cabo Verde has been gaining prominence in the world tourism scene.

Apart from its mild temperature throughout the 12 months of the year, the archipelago offers a wide range of tourist opportunities, from beaches to culture, nautic tourism and magnificent landscapes.

From young to old, tourists from all corners of the world find in Cabo Verde a home ready to welcome them warmly.

With a cuisine rich in color and flavor, an exuberant culture and golden sand beaches that merge into vibrant blue seas, each of Cabo Verde's islands is a destination for unique experiences.

Vacation for Retirees in Cape Verde

With temperatures exceeding 20 degrees all year round, Cabo Verde has sun, sea, and beaches. But it also has culture, history, and art. It's this diversity that makes the island increasingly popular among those who bring more time in their suitcases.

The archipelago is like a family and a welcoming home to those who seek it out. Those who pass through discover rare beauty in both nature and the Cabo Verdean people. It's not just memories they take away but lifelong friends as well. Perhaps that's why many choose to put down roots here, making Cabo Verde their second home.

Nature Tourism in Cape Verde

Cape Verde is currently in the first steps of development towards becoming a globally recognized hiking destination.

It has a history of economic success, being an example for other sub-Saharan countries. The tourism industry is today the largest economic activity in terms of contribution to GDP, as is common in many island countries.

Internal conditions and external factors tell us that Cape Verde can become a world-class hiking destination and a reference in sustainable economic development using adventure travel as a tool.

Honeymoon in Cape Verde

With its paradisiacal beaches, breathtaking landscapes, and romantic atmosphere, the archipelago of Cape Verde is a true paradise for honeymooning couples seeking a special place to celebrate their love.

Its islands offer a unique mixture of natural beauty, beaches, history, and culture making them the perfect choice for newlyweds. From candlelit dinners under starry skies to dramatic mountains and warm beaches, Cabo Verde has all the ingredients for a romantic and unforgettable honeymoon.

CABO VERDE ALL YEAR AROUND

First International Nature Tourism Conference in Cabo Verde

Tesouros do Mar

Stand Up Comedy A Burr NEH !!!

Sete Sóis, Sete Luas

Morna Jazz Festival

Mini Festival Lagoa

Kriol Jazz Festival

Kavala Fresk Festival

Grito Rock Praia

São João Festival

Laginha Music Festival

Gâmboa Festival

Baía das Gatas Festival

Três Ritmos Festival

Praia de Tedja Festival

Festa dos 3 Homens

Festa de Nhô Filipe (Flag Festival)

Kolá San Jon Festival

FONARTES - Craftsmanship Forum

Art Exhibition for Women

Living Statue Exhibition

Batuku Batuku

Atlantic Music Expo

New Year's Eve

Travel Wise

Getting to know a new country is synonymous with new adventures. Each country is a country. It is a different culture, with its own laws, customs, tastes and peculiarities distinct from any other part of the world.

Preparing your trip in advance can save you some challenges.

Here you can find the most frequent questions of travelers and some tips so that you can get to know the country smoothly.

Covid-19 - SARS-CoV-2

Currency & Costs

Flights & Airports

Health care

Visa & Immigration

Remote Working

Looking for the perfect place for the next 6 months of your life, working on your remote projects? You’ve just found it: Cabo Verde! The archipelago of ten islands lies in the Atlantic Ocean and has everything you can wish for – the perfect amount of sunshine and some serious Wi-Fi coverage so you can get your work done while enjoying the natural beauty of the country.

Experience Cabo Verde: the morabeza islands an APP Awa

The VISIT CABO VERDE APP allows you to discover the islands, plan your trip and enjoy the best experiences we have to offer. Immerse yourself in the delicious flavors of gastronomy, venture into unusual nature, fall in love with the mystique of Creole culture, be enchanted by the magic of music, and much more.

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The Ultimate 7-Day Cape Verde Itinerary (& 7 Pro Tips)

When I embarked on a journey to the small, remote Cape (Cabo) Verde islands in the middle of the Atlantic, I did not know what to expect.

Would the islands, because of their deep importance with the Atlantic slave trade routes, remind me of my travels across Senegal ? Or instead, would they remind me of the Canary Islands or even the Azores?

What I experienced instead was totally unexpected – and far better.

Though I’m jealous of those who get to spend weeks on end in these enchanting islands, a week is just enough to get a good taste of Cape Verde. And perhaps little enough to make you want to come back for more.

The Ultimate 7-Day Cape Verde (Cabo Verde) Itinerary

This jam-packed 7-day expedition across Cape Verde is sure to maximize your exploration and enjoyment of these magnificent islands.

• Fly directly to Sal, Cape Verde (SID) and explore this magnificent desert-island: 2 days
• Hop on a local turboprop plane and ferry to Santo Antão for 3 days of ultimate hiking
• Ferry back to São Vicente for an incredible night in Mindelo
• Turboprop it down to Praia, Santiago Island and enjoy the most underrated island of Cape Verde: 2 days

Pro Tip : Book a multi-city ticket finishing your trip in Praia – where you can either fly directly to Europe and Africa, or connect in Sal for your onwards flight. This way you do a nice circuit tour of the islands.

Related: The 20 Ultimate Things to Do in Sal, Cape Verde [2023-2024]

What to do with 9 days in Cape (Cabo) Verde?

An additional adventure I wish I had done in Cabo Verde is exploring the nation’s only active volcano , on Fogo Island .

Some people only spend one full day in Fogo, as it is a small island. However, I recommend taking a full 2-day dose of this gem so you have time to hike and rest.

What you need to know before traveling to and around Cape Verde

Cape verde travel requirements.

As of May 2023, Cape Verde has removed all Covid-19 restrictions.

• Many flights are running to Sal and Praia from Europe and Africa, on airlines such as Air Senegal, TAP Air Portugal, Azores, Royal Air Maroc, and TUIFly.
• Restaurants are mostly open as pre-covid, with only a few restaurants that shut down during the pandemic.
• There is not currently a curfew or limitations on seating, indoors or out.

Pro Tip: iVisa is a great tool to assist with the any visa concerns you may have prior to entering Cape Verde. They offer free advice and information without needing to sign up for anything.

How to book flights within Cape Verde

The pre-covid airline that was running convenient flights between the Cape Verde islands, TICV, is out of business. Replacing that airline is BestFly – an Angolan airline that picked up TICV’s route structure, airplanes, and infrastructure.

In other words, you will basically have the same services as before.

I’ve had zero luck booking my flights on BestFly’s online website . The online payment always fails. However, the website is a great place to check schedules. And maybe you’ll have better luck booking than I did.

I’m told by locals that the BestFly website online works for bookings made a month or more ahead. I’m not even sure that’s true.

Since we were much more last-minute with our bookings, we were forced to visit a travel agency in Cape Verde to book our flights for a surcharge of about $11USD per booking. There are many tour agencies; Girassol (2 locations in Santiago), Polar (Praia, Santiago), Barracuda Tours (Sal), Morabitur and more.

Pro Tip : If you can’t book online with BestFly, contact a tour operator as early as possible; flights tend to fill up 3-10 days ahead, and there’s no way to book them once they’re full.

Best way to rent a car across Cape Verde

There’s an excellent, family owned, one-stop rental car company that covers almost all of the islands.

They’re called caboverde Rental Cars and they have top-rated partners around most of the airports and ferry terminals.

I mention them now because you can sort out all your bookings from one convenient website instead of having to crawl around searching for each one individually.

First Stop: Sal, Cape Verde (2 Days)

Sal is characterized as a typical beach destination for sunshine-seeking European holidayers looking to get some sun. But it can be fun too. In fact, I absolutely recommend reading about the 20 Ultimate Things You Can Do in Sal, Cape Verde .

What to do in Sal, Cape Verde

Our favorite activity in Sal was the diving at the Santa Maria Dive Center , which was much better than we ever expected.

• Dive crystal-clear warm waters beaming with sea life
• Rent an ATV Quad and hop along sand dunes
• Go for a swim and enjoy the beach or resort life

Take a kite surf lesson

• Enjoy Cape Verde’s finest cuisine

Dive Cape Verde’s splendid waters

Divers from abroad might be surprised to hear that the diving in Cape Verde is actually quite good . From large shipwrecks to underwater mountains and enormous drop offs, there’s something to see for everyone.

The infrastructure is actually pretty good too, with lines attached down to popular shipwrecks and well documented dive sites. Depths vary from 30 feet for some wrecks to 130+ feet on some of the walls.

Underwater wildlife includes giant turtles, manta and eagle rays, sharks of various sorts, and occasionally even whales!

Rent an ATV and explore salt and sand dunes

There’s no shortage of ATV / 4×4 rentals in Santa Maria, and the entire island is quite accessible.

You can reach the Dune of Sal from Santa Maria in about 10 minutes for a world of fun hopping around the dunes.

The combination of constant, strong trade winds and miles of pristine shoreline makes for a wonderful place to kite surf. There are dozens of outfits that have kite surf schools , including Mito & Djo Kite Surf School.

Relax at the beach

Looking to unwind and relax? I can’t blame you. After all, it’s likely you had a long journey to get here.

Sal offers miles and miles of unspoiled white sand beaches and clear, turquoise water.

Ponta Sino, the main beach just off of Santa Maria, is a wonderful place to relax. Afterwards, head to nearby Cape Fruit and grab a fresh fruit smoothie to rehydrate after a day of sun.

Best places to eat in Santa Maria

As a mega hub for European tourists, Sal has quite a few restaurants… and many of them are quite good!

Although we loved Cape Fruit for a quick snack and healthy food, we loved Soul Kitchen for its truly exceptional cuisine and prime beachfront location.

Another great spot is R estaurante Farolim, located on a jetty over the water. It’s probably the best-placed restaurant on the island.

Best places to stay in Santa Maria

There are plenty of places to stay in Santa Maria, Sal, for all kinds of budgets.

For those visiting Sal on a lower to average budget, we strongly recommend Casa Pau and Casa Blue . Both offer shared or private rooms, options of fantastic complimentary breakfast, and great service.

Those on a higher budget won’t struggle to find world-class resorts, such as the Hotel Riu Palace Santa Maria – with the absolute prime location of the island.

Next stop: the brilliant island of Santo Antão, Cape Verde (3 Days)

Wondering why this itinerary calls for 3 days in Santo Antão, unlike the other islands?

Here’s why;

Santo Antão is Cape Verde’s best island

If you’re planning on staying longer on any particular island, Santo Antão is the one you should choose.

In every single island we visited, I mean every island, the locals told us about their favorite island: Santo Antão.

And the second we arrived in Porto Novo, we understood why.

Santo Antão: also the most beautiful island of Cape Verde?

Without a doubt, Santo Antão takes the cake for most beautiful island not just in Cape Verde, but much of the world.

Extravagant valleys and jaw-droppingly massive volcanic mountains and cliffs make the island jut out of the Atlantic with incredible beauty.

The islands are raw nature at its finest, and there’s no other way to put it.

You can experience the beauty of Santo Antão on a plethora of amazing hikes located on all corners of the island.

How to get from Sal to Santo Antão, Cape Verde on the same day

Wondering how to get to Santo Antão?

It’s very easy from Sal or Santiago. All it takes is a flight to Sao Vicente and then a ferry ride to Santo Antão.

Getting from Sal to Santo Antão, all the way on the other end of the Cape Verde islands, may seem like a stretch – especially considering that Santo Antão does not have an active airport.

But it’s feasible, even easy.

You’ll need to book a flight on BestFly from SID-VXE (Sal to São Vicente). The flight should arrive in Sao Vicente before 1PM so you can make the 2PM ferry to Santo Antao.

As of November 2021, there is a 950AM or 1150AM flight (depending on the day) on BestFly from Sal to São Vicente. There are also two flights per day from Praia.

Getting from Sao Vicente Airport to the Ferry

The next step is getting to the ferry in São Vicente so you can head to Santo Antão.

Upon arrival, exit to the left and head to a taxi stand. Ask for the ferry. A one-way fare from São Vicente to the Mindelo Ferry Port costs 1000CVE ($10USD) and takes 15-20 minutes.

The ferry schedule, as of November 2021, is as follows:

The last departure to Santo Antão departs at 1400, which can be made with ease if you take any flight departing from Sal before noon.

Pro Tip : Make sure to book your ferry ticket ahead at CV Interhilas to skip the line and have an easier time.

The ferry from São Vicente to Santo Antão costs about 800CVE per person and takes just under an hour.

Renting a car from the ferry port in Santo Antão

You can rent a car directly from the ferry port in Porto Novo, Santo Antão.

We rented a lovely 4×4 Suzuki Jimmy for less than $50USD per day with Vale&Montanha . A representative from the rental agency had the car ready and waiting for us at the port.

He had us sign a few papers, leave a $200USD deposit (cash only) and then we were on our way. We had no hassles or issues with our rental.

The best hotel in all of Cape Verde. Surprise: it’s not expensive!

We spent hours going through all of the hotels on Santo Antão before we found this one. And even then, it took a couple phone calls and some patience before we confirmed our reservation for one night.

And what a night it was.

Quinta Cochete , located basically in the middle of the island, is such a gem of a hotel. It’s not expensive, at less than $100USD a night, but it should be.

The food here is at standards not found outside top chef restaurants in Europe, the views include 360 degrees of complete stupefaction, and if that’s not enough there’s a complete garden and animal farm to keep you company.

The owner is supremely friendly and the ambiance here is of utmost relaxation. You’ll be in a prime location to start some of the best hikes on the island and after eating to your hearts content and sleeping like sleeping beauty, you’ll be ready for them.

What to do in Santo Antão

The whole time we were in Santo Antão, we had one thought: “man, this place really gives Hawaii a run for its money”.

There’s just so much nature to enjoy here. Make sure to:

• Head up to Ponta do Sol for epic sunset and sunrise views.
• Hike along the north shore from Ponta do Sol through Fontainhas onto Corva and take a taxi back
• Visit Paul’s Cove and explore the area
• Get lost driving around the island in a 4×4 and enjoy the most epic views of your life

Third stop: Mindelo, São Vicente

Mindelo is a surprisingly large and densely populated city in São Vicente.

Here you’ll find sailboats moored on the gorgeous bay surrounded by jagged volcanic mountains with brightly colored houses and building adorning the hills of the city.

There are a number of great restaurants and hotels here, and Mindelo makes for a quite pleasant – but not totally necessary stop.

How to get from Santo Antão to São Vicente

You have the choice between a 9AM or 4PM ferry, either of which takes about an hour. We chose to take the 4PM ferry and spend a night exploring Mindelo, but you could take a 9AM ferry followed by a flight to your next destination.

Again, booked on CV Interhilas.

The Ultimate Night in Mindelo and What You Need to Know

After hopping off the ferry, take a taxi for 200CVE ($2USD) and head to the nicest viewpoint in Mindelo; the Casamarel.

Pro Tip : Avoid non-official taxis if you can. It’s pretty obvious when you see the car.

The Casamarel is a well-priced yet luxurious and not yet discovered restaurant/hotel with a lovely pool and even better views.

Stay and eat here for a wonderful evening of good food, great accommodations, and a view on the city and bay for sunset. Maybe with your bae. Up to you.

Walking around Mindelo is generally safe, but we were told to take taxis at night. We did not and had no issues; it’s up to you to decide. The locals probably know best.

What to do around Mindelo

• Perfect your negotiation skills at the Central Market
• Take a swim on the white-sand Praia de Laginha
• Rent a scooter and explore the island

Make sure not to miss the Central Market of Mindelo. It’s one of the more authentic ones I’ve seen.

There’s an incredible white-sand beach right in the heart of downtown called Praia de Laginha . It makes for a fun afternoon of jumping in and out of rough waves.

Pro Tip : For those looking to explore more of São Vicente, there’s a scooter rental called Zoom Zoom Mindelo. You’ll find decent prices and great scooters.

The island of São Vicente is very accessible and has generally exceptional roads.

Final/fourth stop: Santiago Island (2 Days)

Next up is Santiago island, a totally underrated gem. Praia , the capital of Cape Verde, is located here and people unfortunately tend to conflate it with the entire island of Santiago.

Praia isn’t the nicest city, but the rest of the island of Santiago provides absolutely magnificent mountain views combined with lovely coves and wonderful beaches.

How to get to Praia, Santiago

To get to Santiago, you’ll have to fly into Praia. Here’s how to get there from São Vicente.

From Mindelo, take a taxi to São Vicente airport (VXE). The ride lasts about 10 minutes and costs 1000CVE ($10).

BestFly generally runs two flights a day from São Vicente to Praia, Santiago.

Security is generally not an issue in São Vicente airport as there are hardly international flights.

Again, make sure to have your Covid-19 documents ready – with QR code.

Renting a car in Santiago: the struggle is real

There are several local agencies as well as a Hertz, though we were unable to get in contact with any of them.

Instead, our hotel arranged for us to rent from someone local for 5000CVE/day – about $50USD.

It is otherwise not terribly hard to get around the island by taxi or ‘alaguer’ – shared shuttles.

The only issue: taxis are expensive and alaguers wait to fill up before leaving, leaving you waiting. However, alaguers tend to be very cheap with fares as low as 300CVE to get all the way across the island.

Must-sees on Santiago island

Santiago has so much to offer, and honestly ended up being one of our favorite islands.

We had plenty of great food, wonderful accommodation at Dunas de Areia Preta, and were welcomed by so many lovely locals. And the sights are absolutely stunning.

Make sure not to miss:

• Piscina Natural de Cuba, a “natural swimming pool”/amazing oasis
• Silverbeach, a volcanic beach in Tarrafal
• Parque Nacional de Serra Malagueta, the most amazing mountain chain on the island

Bonus stop: Fogo Island

Literally translating to “Island of Fire”, Fogo is Cabo Verde’s only active volcanic island.

As the active volcanic island, Fogo provides for some incredible hikes up to the crater.

How to get to Fogo Island

• Fly on BestFly or take a ferry on CV Interilhas

On Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays, CV Interhilas runs a fast ferry from Praia, Santiago to Fogo island. It take approximately 3.5 hours and costs 3300CVE (about $34 USD) per person.

There are also flights to/from Fogo on BestFly, the local inter island airline. Watch out – these tend to fill up far in advance.

How to get around Fogo

Although we would rent a car, especially in a time crunch, it is possible to get all around Fogo by taxi or Alaguer.

What to do in Fogo

• Hiking Fogo National Park to the crater
• Enjoying a road trip around the island
• Hanging out with local fisherman and enjoying fresh seafood

The main attractions of course, is to hike the volcano of Fogo!

Many tour companies offer guided tours of the volcano, including equipment rental.

The ring road going around the island also provides epic views on the volcano and surrounding islands, especially around sunset and sunrise.

In summary, the ultimate 7-day itinerary in Cabo Verde includes:

• Flying to Sal from Europe or Africa
• Enjoying 2 days of ATVs, beaching, diving, relaxing, sunning, and kitesurfing
• Navigating from Sal to Santo Antão on the same day
• Exploring Cabo Verde’s most beautiful island, Santo Antão, for 2 days by hiking and road tripping
• Taking the local airline down to Praia, Santiago Island
• Dipping in a natural pool, walking on volcanic sand beaches, taking in the spectacular views of Santiago for 2 days
• Flying home, via Europe, Sal, or Africa

Theres an enormous amount to do and see in Cabo Verde, and hopefully this allows you to see the most on your 7-day trip.

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• 3 Other destinations
• 4.1 Climate
• 4.2 Holidays
• 4.3 Tourist information
• 6.1 Entry requirements
• 6.2.1 From Europe
• 6.2.2 From the Americas
• 6.2.3 From Africa
• 6.3 By boat
• 7.1 By plane
• 7.2 By ferry
• 7.3 By taxi and aluguer shared transport
• 12.1 Non-alcoholic drinks
• 12.2 Alcoholic drinks
• 16 Stay safe
• 17 Stay healthy
• 19.1 Mobile connectivity

Cape Verde or CV (Portuguese: Cabo Verde , Kriolu: Kabu Verdi ) is a country off the coast of West Africa . It is in a cluster of islands of the Atlantic Ocean , 570 km (350 mi) off the western coast of Senegal .

Regions [ edit ]

Cape Verde is formed by 10 main islands and about 8 islets. The main islands are (clockwise from northwest):

Cities [ edit ]

There are 24 cities in Cape Verde.

• 14.917719 -23.509156 1 Praia – the capital, on Santiago Island
• 16.891353 -24.987983 2 Mindelo – port city on São Vicente , probably the country's liveliest
• 14.916667 -23.604167 3 Cidade Velha (Ribeira Grande) – A historic town on Santiago
• 14.896599 -24.495499 7 São Filipe capital of island Fogo

Other destinations [ edit ]

Understand [ edit ].

Cape Verde (population 550,000 in 2019) is 500 km from the west coast of Africa. The previously uninhabited islands were discovered and colonized by the Portuguese in the 15th century; they subsequently became a trading centre for African slaves and later an important coaling and re-supply stop for whaling and transatlantic shipping. Independence was achieved in 1975.

Most Cape Verdeans have both African and Portuguese ancestors.

The government declared in 2013 that the country's official name would not be translated into foreign languages and the country is now the Republic of Cabo Verde or simply Cabo Verde , although only time will tell if this change will enter common usage.

Climate [ edit ]

Cape Verde’s climate is temperate, with a warm, dry summer. Precipitation is meagre and falls between June and February, peaking in September.

Some islands see almost no rain: these are Sal, Boavista and Maio. The islands with most rainfall are Santiago, Fogo and Santo Antao.

Holidays [ edit ]

The national holiday is 5 July, Independence Day.

Tourist information [ edit ]

• Visit Cabo Verde website

Talk [ edit ]

The official language is Portuguese , used in all official publications and announcements as well as in business, media and schools, but the local language is Cape Verdean Creole ( Kriolu kabuverdianu ), a Portuguese-based creole language with 90-95% of the words from Portuguese and the rest mainly from West African languages. It is divided into 9 dialects spoken on various parts of the country. Even though Kriolu is comprehensible to a skilled Portuguese-speaker, almost all people can also speak Portuguese as a second language. A considerable number of Cape Verdeans also speak English; basically, Kriolu is your first option, Portuguese second, English third.

It is a good idea to know some Kriolu or at least Portuguese, since even though young urban people are often quite proficient in English, this does not apply to old and rural people, and even those who can speak English will highly appreciate any attempt you do to speak Kriolu or Portuguese.

Get in [ edit ]

Entry requirements [ edit ].

Citizens of Angola , Benin , Burkina Faso , Côte d'Ivoire , Gambia , Ghana , Guinea-Bissau , Guinea , Hong Kong , Liberia , Macau , Mali , Mauritania , Mozambique , Niger , Nigeria , Senegal , Sierra Leone , Singapore , Timor-Leste and Togo do not require a visa to enter Cape Verde.

European Union citizens are also visa exempt, but have to pay an entry fee of approximately €30 . Pre-registration is possible at the EASE website of the Cabo Verde government for a faster entry through automated passport control (at least in the Nelson Mandela airport in Praia of Santiago as of July 2022).

Everybody else may obtain a visa on arrival at a cost of around €30 . The waiting queues for this option may be longer than for pre-registered visitors.

By plane [ edit ]

Cape Verde has four international airports:

• Amílcar Cabral International Airport on Sal Island (IATA SID).
• Nelson Mandela International Airport in Praia on Santiago (Cape Verde) (IATA RAI).
• Aristides Pereira International Airport on Boa Vista (Cape Verde) (IATA BVC)
• Cesária Évora Airport on São Vicente (IATA VXE)

These airports provide connections to Europe, Africa and the Americas. Not all the connections are visible to travel booking websites, it is usually worth checking with a travel agent.

From Europe [ edit ]

Cape Verde is serviced through two types of flight connections: scheduled flights and charter flights (mostly reserved for all-inclusive vacations to the islands of Sal and Boa Vista (Cape Verde) . There are regular flights from Amsterdam Schiphol , Lisbon (daily), Madrid Barajas , Milan , Munich Airport , and Oporto .

Some specific connections to Cabo Verde are:

• Cabo Verde Airlines . fly from Lisbon ( updated Aug 2022 )
• TAP Portugal . fly from Lisbon ( updated Aug 2022 )
• Royal Air Maroc . Fly from Casablanca ( updated Aug 2022 )
• Thomson Holidays . You can fly direct to Santa Maria on Sal from London Gatwick , Glasgow and Manchester Airport on Astraeus and also with Thomson Holidays from Birmingham , Manchester and Gatwick . ( updated Aug 2022 )

From the Americas [ edit ]

There are regular weekly flights from Fortaleza (Brazil) .

From Africa [ edit ]

West Africa is also served.

By boat [ edit ]

There are only infrequent, expensive connections to the mainland by ship. On the other hand the islands are commonly visited by yachts crossing the Atlantic (see Hitchhiking boats ).

Get around [ edit ]

Most road and sidewalk surfaces in Cabo Verde are made of large, rough, irregular, uneven and sharp cobblestones, which are often spaced wide apart and may protrude several centimetres from the ground. These surfaces are generally unsuitable for wheeled luggage, baby strollers, folding bicycles or anything with wheels smaller than those of a car or standard bicycle.

Transportation between islands is possible by plane and ferry. Plane tickets are more expensive than ferry tickets. If funds are not a constraint, Cabo Verdeans seem to prefer flights due to better reliability, shorter duration and lack of sea-sickness.

Timetables in Cape Verde are not to be taken too seriously - don't be too surprised if that boat departs ahead of schedule or if that flight suddenly gets postponed until tomorrow. This is important to consider if you decide to do some island-hopping. Due to weather and other conditions flights may be delayed or canceled. Carry your toothbrush with you and build in some buffer time to your planning especially if you need to meet an international connection.

As of July 2022, the COVID information website of the government claims that it is still required to pre-fill a health registration form to travel to Cabo Verde and from island to island. In practice, it seems that only vaccination certificates (triple dose required) or negative COVID test is required and checked.

As of July 2022, Best Fly Cabo Verde airlines has regular flights between the majority of the islands. Booking is possible through the website or local tourist agencies. Payments can be made via Credit Card when selecting the vinti4 payment options.

Tickets may be sold out days or weeks ahead - especially if there are more potential passengers when the ferry service is interrupted. Consider booking early, especially for critical connections. In case of emergency, some spaces of no-show passengers may be available. Go to the airport in the morning to be put on the waiting list to have the chance to gain such a space.

If you can afford to wait until you arrive, domestic tickets are cheaper if purchased in Cape Verde.

There are several fare categories as listed on the airline website . Flights can be rebooked for $2,000 ( escudos ) in some of the fare categories as listed on the tariff conditions in the website.

• Cabo Verde Express

By ferry [ edit ]

There are ferry services between the islands. As of July 2022, all ferries are operated by CV Interilhas . Schedules and ticket booking possibilities are available on the website. According to Cabo Verdean locals, ferries seem to have reliability issues so it is advisable to check the website before departure and to have a backup plan. For the journey, the sea conditions may cause sea sickness so it is advisable to take the same precautions as on any ferry journey.

By taxi and aluguer shared transport [ edit ]

Nice, new taxis are available in the major cities and are not metered.

By car [ edit ]

Cape Verde's road network is underdeveloped in places, and roads are often unpaved, especially on the smaller islands. The main roads are asphalted. Road lighting is poor, so particular care must be taken when driving in the dark. The local traffic culture is unruly by western standards. Traffic speeds can be high. Drunk driving is common.

See [ edit ]

• Cidade Velha , whose name translates to "Old City" was the first European city in the tropics and an UNESCO World Heritage Site .
• The Cova Valley on Santo Antão - located in a crater of an extinct volcano.
• The town hall, cathedral and Palace of Justice in the capital Praia .
• Fogo , an island of volcanoes, one of which erupted in 1995 and 2014/2015.

Do [ edit ]

The possibility on what to do differ strongly by the size and type of island (see pages for individual islands). Some activities available on particular islands include:

• Game fishing
• Kite surfing & wind surfing
• Jetskiing and other water sports
• Canyoning in Santo Antao

Buy [ edit ]

Money [ edit ]

Coins in Cape Verde are issued in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 250 escudos. Banknotes in Cape Verde are issued in denominations of 200, 500, 1,000, 2,000 and 5,000 escudos.

In the resort islands of Sal and Boa Vista, euros are commonly accepted, although you might receive change in escudos.

Money can be changed from all major currencies at the international airports at Sal and Praia. Bank branches at larger towns will also change money. Larger towns also have ATMs that will take Visa, MasterCard and Maestro.

High-end hotels will accept credit cards. Other hotels will expect cash although many mid-range ones will accept euros at a reasonably exchange rate (slightly worse than the banks). For everything else, expect to pay in escudos.

Costs [ edit ]

Since most goods are imported, the cost of living is moderate to high. On the island resorts of Boa Vista and Sal, the cost of living oftentimes can be compared to their Caribbean counterparts. The island of Santiago is reasonably the least expensive.

Eat [ edit ]

Cape Verde has fantastic fresh seafood. Tuna is common, as is Wahoo - a white fleshed fish with similar texture.

• Lagostada – a lobster dish
• Cachupa - the national dish made with maize and potato. Fish or chicken commonly added for flavor.
• Tosta mista - common toasted ham and cheese sandwich.

European food is common on all the islands. Italian is especially popular on Sal. Vegetarians can ask for omelets or salads.

Drink [ edit ]

Non-alcoholic drinks [ edit ].

Tap water may be contaminated due to incorrect storage (e.g. in containers on the roofs of buildings). Take the same precautions as in other regions with varying water quality. In case of doubt, bottled water is available in stores between $70 for a 1.5 l bottle to $400 for 10l Canisters.

Imported juices and soft drinks are available in these stores as well.

Alcoholic drinks [ edit ]

Local beer is a lager to drink ice cold, its name is Strela .

Red, white and rosé wines are grown and made in Fogo, e.g. under the Chã brand.

International beers and other drinks are available. These are imported from Portugal and other countries.

Sleep [ edit ]

There are plenty of hotels and guest houses throughout the archipelago. Though the largest hotels are based on the islands of Sal (Riu Funana and Garopa hotels--1000 rooms combined), and Boa Vista (Riu Touareg--881 rooms).

Learn [ edit ]

There are 10 universities including institutes in the country. The largest universities are: Jean Piaget University of Cape Verde and University of Cape Verde.

Work [ edit ]

The Cape Verdean economy is largely service-based, i.e., most Cape Verdeans work in industries, hospitals, transportation and tourism related activities.

Stay safe [ edit ]

Crime rates are relatively low. The emergency number is 132.

UK health authorities have classified Cape Verde as having a risk of Zika virus transmission.

The WHO declared that as of 2024, malaria has been eradicated in the entire country, with no cases reported for over three years.

Stay healthy [ edit ]

In the resorts, the tap water is usually desalinated and safe to drink. In other areas, bottled water is cheap and commonly available.

Respect [ edit ]

People are polite and friendly: they will try to sell you something and if you refuse, they will invent stories about the hardship of their families. It is good to buy something, but important to bargain .

Connect [ edit ]

The telephone system is effective and improving.

The country also has one Internet service provider.

Mobile connectivity [ edit ]

There is mobile phone coverage in all cities and most towns. As of July 2022, 4G coverage is common in some populated areas such as Santiago and Fogo. Check with your provider as to the roaming costs. Alternatively, local prepaid SIM cards branded CVMovel and Unitel T+ (Tmais) are available widespread. As of July 2022, these can be charged with around $1000 for approximately 7 GB of data, unlimited calls into the same provider network and 15 minutes of calls into the other provider. Ask the personnel to activate the SIM card for you and to activate the prepaid tariffs.

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What do the Cape Verde Islands offer for your holiday?

There are many possibilities open to you on a Cape Verde holiday. You don’t have to choose between swimming or hiking , but can easily combine both. Endless beaches, breathtaking mountains and high plateaus shrouded in mist form a unique liaison that combines relaxation and adventure. Follow the Creole motto “Cabo Verde – No Stress” and let yourself be carried away by the African joie de vivre.

Ideal for beach holidays on Cape Verde are the islands of Sal , Boa Vista and Maio . Here you can go kitesurfing, windsurfing, surfing, diving and fishing. You can then relax in one of the fantastic beach hotels and all-inclusive resorts along the kilometre-long beaches. If you prefer a individual hiking tour or an individual round trip , Santo Antão , Santiago and Fogo are ideal for your Cape Verde holiday. And since the Cape Verde Islands are a sunny holiday destination even in winter, you can enjoy your stay all year round – regardless of whether you want to visit just one of the islands or explore the entire archipelago by island hopping.

When is the best time to travel to Cape Verde?

Cape Verde is in season all year round. Look forward to 23 to 30 degrees Celsius during the day and around 24 degrees Celsius on summer nights or around 18 degrees Celsius on winter evenings. The water is also pleasantly warm at 22 degrees Celsius (February/March) to 27 degrees Celsius (September/October). In short, the Cape Verde Islands are ideal as a year-round destination. You should note the time of the winds (Tempo das brisas) from October to July, from which especially surfers and kite surfers benefit, and the rainy season (Tempo das chuvas) from August to September.

The mood is unmistakably  caboverdiana , the unique, united identity of a country with a big heart and a deep soul.  Aisling Irwin , Colum Wilson and  Murray Stewart , authors of Cape Verde: the Bradt Guide

Cape Verde survived a bout of being overhyped as the ‘new Caribbean’ a few years ago, but this diverse archipelago of nine inhabited and one uninhabited islands has settled back in to just being … itself. Discover for yourself the true Cape Verde – come for the music: mournful, frenetic or sexy in its various guises; come for the dazzling, white-sand beaches of Sal, Boavista or Maio; come for Fogo’s simmering volcano; come and hike the lush  ribeiras  and stunning, jagged peaks of Santo Antão or São Nicolau. Party hard at São Vicente’s boisterous carnival, enjoy a little bit of everything on Santiago – the ‘most African island’ – or escape from the world in tiny, rugged, isolated Brava.

If you’re stuck out in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, you need to be special to attract attention. Cape Verde  is  in the mid-Atlantic. Cape Verde  is  special and is, once again, attracting attention. Here, you’ll find a safe, welcoming and peaceful part of Africa that intriguingly defies any neat description.

At times, it doesn’t even feel African, a melting-pot of influences which draws on its Portuguese colonial days, a hint of Brazilian, a strong attachment to the United States and a dash of yes, the Caribbean.

But the mood is unmistakably caboverdiana , the unique, united identity of a country with a big heart and a deep soul. Cape Verde’s music is the key to unlock both: in a land where the language of the street is creole, with no written tradition, music is how Cape Verde expresses itself internally and impresses others internationally.

But don’t dwell too long on your reason for visiting Cape Verde; just make sure that you do visit, soon.

Food and drink in Cape Verde

Fish lovers will be in heaven on Cape Verde. The grilled lobster is superb, as are the fresh tuna, octopus and a multitude of other delicacies. The only disappointment sometimes is that no-one seems to have invented any exciting sauces or variations to liven up these freshly caught delights. Vegetarians may find only omelette on the menu but can always ask for a plate of rice and beans.

A Cape Verdean speciality is cachupa, a delicious, hearty dish that comes in two varieties: poor-man’s cachupa (boiled maize, beans, herbs, cassava, sweet potato) and rich-man’s cachupa (the same but with chicken and other meat). Cachupa takes a long time to prepare: some restaurants put a sign in their windows to indicate when they will next be serving it. Cachupa grelhada is perhaps the most palatable – everything available all fried up together, often for breakfast and recommended, especially when served with a fried egg on top.

An oddity of Cape Verdean restaurants is the apparent default setting of serving your chosen dish with rice and potatoes of some variety (chipped, boiled). For many, this is too much stodge, but you may have to be insistent to avoid it happening!

Another minor frustration can be the opening times. The situation has improved markedly, but there is still a fairly laid-back attitude to opening times, one which you may choose to adopt. Experience shows that some establishments do not publicise their opening times, or will not stick to them! On Sal and Boavista, this is less of a problem.

Local specialities are the jams (doce) and semi-dried fruits. These are often served as desserts along with fresh goat’s cheese, making a delicious end to the meal.

Most towns will have local eateries where huge platefuls of rice, chips, beans and fish, or of cachupa , are served up at lunchtimes for 300–600$, but these places may not be open all day. Look out for restaurants offering pratos do dia , often at lunchtime. These ‘dishes of the day’ give you a chance to fill up very cheaply, usually for around 400$ or less. Restaurant prices are defined in the rest of this book by the average cost of a main meat or fish dish.

In most places, these go for between 600$ and 1,200$. Lobster tends to be 1,800$ on some islands, but costs much more on Sal and Boavista. Tea is typically 100$ per cup; coffee the same, however, getting a decent tea or coffee can at times be difficult. Asking for tea can quite often bring an infusion of camomile or blackberry, so bringing a few of your favourite teabags from home is not a bad idea, if it’s important to you. Cha preta is black tea. The best coffee seems to be available from the larger airport cafés and ferry terminals, or from various Italian establishments on Sal and Boavista.

Food on the streets is fine, if unexciting. A good tip to finding it is to look near to the town’s market, if it has one. Th ere are many women with trays of sweets, monkey nuts, sugared peanuts and popcorn and tiny impromptu barbecues are also set up. Sometimes they will have little pastéis (fish pastries). The confectionery is very sugary, and flavours are mainly coconut, peanut and papaya. Here and there ladies fry moreia  – moray eel. Nice, but greasy – just spit the bones out; the dogs will get them.

Cheap picnic lunches can be bought from supermarkets, markets and from bakeries. These exist in every town but they can be hard to track down, due to a dearth of signage. Ask for the minimercado if you get stuck and don’t be too choosy: often they are more mini than mercado.

Outside the big towns, try to call in at your chosen restaurant about 2 hours in advance to order your meal or you may well be restricted to the dish of the day.

Many remote villages have no eating places, but somewhere there will be a shop – often hard to distinguish from an ordinary house. There you can buy biscuits and drinks.

Bottled water is widely available and in ordinary shops is cheap (80$ for a 1.5-litre bottle, less in supermarkets); prices are inflated at hotels (up to 180$). Some of the wine made on Fogo island is distinctive and very quaffable and can be found for sale around the archipelago. Other wines tend to be imported from Portugal or Italy. There are three principal beers. Strela is a domestic brand, brewed in Praia, and has a sub-brand, Strela Ego, which is a high-strength lager (8%). The two brands imported from Portugal are the maltier Superbock and the less-common Sagres. Costs are typically 100$ for local and Portuguese beer and 250$ for other imported brands. On Sal many more familiar brands of imported drink are available, but are usually quite expensive.

The drink that Cape Verdeans literally live and die for is grogue . It is locally produced and abundantly available – in any dwelling carrying a sign above its door prohibiting children under 18 from entering.

On quieter islands such as Maio and São Nicolau, food shops and restaurants may open erratically and only for short periods. To avoid hours of hunger, always have provisions with you.

Travel and visas in Cape Verde

Every non-Cape Verdean visitor needs a visa unless they are married to, or are the offspring of, a Cape Verdean citizen – in which case they need their marriage or birth certificate. If there is a Cape Verdean embassy in your country you can obtain the visa from there. The cost varies from country to country.

In the UK, where there is no embassy, you have options. Whoever books your air tickets in the UK will probably be able to arrange the visa for you, to be picked up at the airport on arrival. (For those on package holidays, the cost of the visa is usually included in the package cost, but do check. You simply have to provide the tour operator with all your details in advance and you will have no delays on arrival in Cape Verde.

For independent travellers from the UK who want to get their visa in advance of departure, you can contact the Honorary Consul in London. If you need your visa in a hurry, a personal appointment can be made and the visa issued on the spot. A cheaper option for independent travellers is to simply arrive without a visa and just buy one at your arrival airport in Cape Verde. This costs €25, so is usually cheaper than the other options and is a straightforward operation. Note that it is payable in euros, so make sure that you have enough handy to pay for it. You will generally be given a visa for 30 days as this is the norm, but make sure you ask for the length of time you need.

You can extend your visa at the Direção de Emigrantes e Fronteras during your stay (you will need a passport photo, proof of funds, copy of return flight ticket, occasionally a fair degree of persistence, patience and to pay around 2,500$) and it is much easier to do this before your visa expires. They have offices in Praia, Mindelo (notoriously difficult), Sal and Boavista and the local police will direct you to the office. Fines are often levied on departure if you have overstayed, and are around €100. Visas bought in advance are normally also valid for 30 days.

You are not usually required to show proof of a return ticket to purchase a visa on arrival or to arrange a visa in the UK, but some other consulates (such as the one in Italy) will insist on it. All incoming passengers have to complete an embarkation form which is handed out on the plane pre-arrival. The visa form itself is available at the arrival airport.

Getting there and away

Always bear in mind that the airline industry is a fluid one and the services detailed below may change, sometimes from month to month. There are international airports on Sal, Santiago, Boavista and São Vicente. Most international flights land at Sal; however, there is increasing traffic into the other airports. As internal flights are a little unreliable, it can be an advantage to fly to the airport closest to the island of your holiday destination. For example, travellers making for Santo Antão will have a much shorter onward journey if they fly directly to São Vicente, while those heading for Fogo should choose Santiago.

Scheduled airlines flying to Cape Verde include TAP Portugal, the national carrier TACV, Transavia, Bintercanarias, Senegal Airlines, Royal Air Maroc and TAAG Angola. TACV has been subject to an enormous amount of disruption and although its safety record is exemplary it cannot be recommended as an international link, because of its unreliability. You should, however, check whether the situation has improved. Charter flights come and go. Thomson and Thomas Cook (from the UK), TUIfly (from Germany),  TUI Nordic  (from Scandinavia) and Jetair (from Belgium) are some of those who operate charter flights to Cape Verde from Europe. Direct flights from Europe range from around 6 hours, from the north, to 3 hours from southern countries such as Portugal.

Note that a domestic airpass giving fixed prices on inter-island flights was previously available, but only to tour operators booking international flights to Cape Verde with TACV. It’s worth asking your tour operator in case it is revived.

Arriving by sea and watching the Atlantic crags materialise from the ocean is an unusual and uplifting way of reaching the islands. Some ships stay for 48 hours, which is plenty of time in which to get across from Mindelo to see the highlights of Santo Antão. An increasing number of cruises are stopping in Cape Verde, mostly in Mindelo. These include  Cunard   ,  P&O , and  Celebrity Cruises . Smaller cruise ships, such as the  Marco Polo , sometimes go to Fogo.  Noble Caledonia  are now offering cruises which involve ‘island-hopping’ tours to seven islands in the archipelago.

Getting around

The simplest, most convenient, most comfortable, as well as the most reliable way to travel between the islands, is to fly. Anyone with only two weeks in the archipelago should not consider taking a ferry, though there is no alternative to get to Santo Antão or Brava, neither of which has a functioning airport.

Since the demise a few years ago of their only competitor, Halcyonair, the only practical option for inter-island flights has been the national airline,  TACV . But in late 2016, after many rumours and regulatory hiccups, Bintercanarias launched inter-island flights in Cape Verde in competition to TACV. New, logo-ed offices have appeared in the airports in Sal, Praia and São Vicente, and a new website specific to the company’s Cape Verdean inter-island service has been created. It is certainly worth monitoring this site (www.binter.cv) as the company to São Vicente and Praia to São Vicente.

Flights with  TACV  cost from €30 per single journey for a short hop (from Sal to Boavista, for example) to more than double that for longer flights. Journeys take between 20 minutes and 50 minutes. Baggage allowance in economy class for internal flights is 20kg, hand luggage is limited to a stingy 5kg. Bintercanarias allow you 6kg of hand luggage and their flight prices are comparable on the routes they service.

If you are on a very tight schedule or know exactly what you want to do, it is better to book internal flights before you go. If you leave it until you arrive you may not get the flight of your choice although there may be other options if you are flexible. At certain times of the year (festivals or times when emigrants arrive for their holidays), fl ights get very busy – it may therefore be worth checking with a local travel agent. Flights are generally cheaper the further ahead you book and there are sometimes promotional fares.

Cabo Verde Express  operates charter day trips, in general from Sal and Boavista to Fogo. Unless you are planning to charter a whole plane (!), you will need to sign on to a group tour via one of the operators, who advertise everywhere in Sal. You can book a flight-only option if there is availability but this is only possible at the last minute.

These are not the Greek islands; we are in the middle of rough Atlantic waters with great distances between many centres. To reach airport-less Brava or Santo Antão, you have to take a ferry. For other inter-island journeys, ferry trips are difficult to recommend on grounds of comfort and even safety.

If you are hyper-adventurous, or even reckless, ferries do operate between many of the islands, although journey times on potentially rough seas are long and schedules are not always strictly adhered to, so it is essential to double-check the sailing times listed throughout the guide. This  website  keeps reasonably abreast of the ferry situations. In 2008, two ferries sank and before that, two newly introduced catamarans were withdrawn because they couldn’t cope with the rough seas. In 2015, there was a tragic ferry sinking off Fogo, with 11 lives lost. Single journeys cost between €8 and €40, depending on the distance. You are unlikely to find a ferry too full to take you, except at Christmas time, but boats can be delayed for days and journeys are long (up to 14 hours!). The services between Fogo and Brava, and between Mindelo on São Vicente and Porto Novo on Santo Antão, however, are more reliable and enjoy a much shorter journey-time, around 40 minutes and 1 hour respectively.

Cabo Verde Fast Ferry  (CV Fast Ferry started operations in 2011 with an initial route linking the southerly islands of Santiago, Fogo and Brava. The long-promised arrival of a second ferry has eventually materialised, but one or other vessel seems to be constantly under repair. These custom-built ferries are more modern and comfortable than the others and have improved the reliability of interisland travel. Single fares are around €14 between Fogo and Brava, and €35 between Santiago and Fogo. Their Facebook page also contains updates (cvfastferry). Always book in advance, as ferries do not sell tickets on board, and take your passport to the office when booking.

By yacht and catamaran

There are day trips from Sal to Boavista in various different craft. There are also yachts available for charter between the islands.

Outside of Praia and Mindelo (where city buses operate), hiace minibuses and open trucks with seating in the back (Hiluxes) constitute the public transport. They are recognisable by the sign ‘aluguer’ and on most islands that is what they are called, though on Santiago the preferred term is hiace (pronounced ‘yazz’). They are typical African transport, often overloaded with people, chickens and packages and trundling along to the sound of happy-go-lucky tinkling music.

Generally,  alugueres  converge at a point in a town or village which anyone can point out to you; often they drive around picking up passengers and few leave town before they are full. You shout (‘para!’ which means ‘stop!’) when you want to get off and you pay after disembarking. Alugueres can be flagged down anywhere along the roads. In Cape Verde, unusually for West Africa, many of these vehicles are in good condition and consequently most of their drivers are careful and reasonably slow.

The great disadvantage for visitors can be the timings of the alugueres. Often they seem to leave outlying villages at 05.00 or 06.00 to take people to town, much to the bewilderment of the visitor. They then leave town for the outlying villages between 11.00 and mid afternoon. Time and time again tourists pile into the 11.00 aluguer only to find they have no way of getting back to town in the evening without chartering a vehicle at ten times the price.

The term ‘taxi’ refers both to the cars with meters and taxi signs, found in towns, and to hiaces that have been chartered by an individual. Chartering costs about ten times the public fare and you may be forced to do it if you want to go somewhere at a different time of day from everyone else. Sometimes the fares for a charter can be bargained down and occasionally an opportunist will try to diddle you, but generally charter prices are fixed – they’re just comparatively high. Drivers in general love to be chartered by a tourist so watch out when they tell you there is no more public transport that day – hang around to check and insist that you want to travel colectivo, but also accept the possibility that they might actually be telling the truth! Tourists often get together to share a chartered minibus. Note that taxis after dark attract a premium of around 25%.

By car rental

This is possible through local chain firms on São Vicente, Sal and Santiago and there are tiny firms on some of the other islands. International firms have opened on Sal and Santiago. For contact details see the relevant island chapters. Book several days ahead if you can and don’t expect things to run smoothly – for example, the wrong car might arrive several hours late with no price reduction offered for the inconvenience. Car maintenance standards do not match those you might find in western Europe or North America.

Keen cyclists do take their bicycles to the archipelago and return having had a good time. Bicycles can be transported between the islands on the larger TACV 46-seater planes. You pay by weight, just as with other baggage, so carriage is free if it falls within your luggage allowance. Bicycles may also be hired on Sal, Boavista, Maio and Santo Antão.

When to visit Cape Verde

The islands are warm and sunny all year round so for many visitors without any special interests, it doesn’t really matter when they go. For windsurfers the best months are January and February while divers will find the calmest waters and peak visibility from June to December; beach lovers might wish to avoid the windy winter months. Fishermen after marlin should opt for May to October, while tuna fishing is at its best in August. For hikers, the mountainous islands are significantly more beautiful during and just after the rainy season of July to December, though flooding can impede some Santo Antão hikes. The heaviest rainfall is usually in August and September. For those concerned about the heat, the peak is in September (with an average daily temperature of 30°C), with the trough being in January (average 24°C).

For those who wish to see  n esting turtles the season is June to October, peaking in mid-July and August. Turtle hatchlings are born from mid-August until the end of November. Whale-watchers will find the best opportunities in March and April, particularly off Boavista. Photographers should avoid December to March when the harmattan winds dull the light, and leave deposits of sand. Party animals and music lovers might choose February for the São Vicente Carnival, or for that in São Nicolau; August for the São Vicente Baía das Gatas music festival; or May for the Gamboa music festival in Santiago. To coincide your visit with one of the more low-key festivals, consult the individual island chapters. Those on a tight budget will find hotels cheaper from April to June and in October, and should definitely avoid Christmas and Carnival time. Peace seekers might avoid July and August, when Cape Verde is full of both European holidaymakers and  emigrante  families taking their summer holidays back home. As well as Christmas and Carnival times, the whole period from November to March is high season.

Caught in the Sahel zone, Cape Verde is really a marine extension of the Sahara. The northeast tradewind is responsible for much of its climate. It blows down particularly strongly from December to April, carrying so little moisture that only peaks of 600m or more can tease out any rain. The high peaks, particularly on Fogo, Santo Antão and Brava, can spend much of the year with their heads in the clouds.

Added to that wind are two other atmospheric factors. First is the harmattan – dry, hot winds from the Sahara that arrive in a series of blasts from October to June, laden with brown dust which fills the air like smog. The second factor is the southwest monsoon, which brings the longed-for rains between August and October. Often half the year’s rainfall can tumble down in a single storm or series of storms. Unfortunately Cape Verde’s position is a little too far north for the rains to be guaranteed each year: it lies just above the doldrums, the place where the northeast and southwest tradewinds meet and where there is guaranteed rainfall.

What to see and do in Cape Verde

Brava is the most secret of the islands – a volcano crater hides its town, rough seas encircle it and the winds that buffet it are so strong that its airport has been closed for years. Brava lies only 20km from its big brother, Fogo, but many visitors to Cape Verde will merely glimpse it from the greater island’s western slopes.

Brava – or ‘wild’ island – appears at first to live up to the meaning of its name. Approaching by boat, the dark mass resolves itself into sheer cliffs with painted houses dotting the heights above. A few fishing hamlets huddle at sea level.

But its unpromising slopes hide a hinterland that is at times fertile and moist, filled with hibiscus flowers and cultivation. At least that is how it was: today, after years of drought, its flowers are less visible and its food more likely to be imported than grown.

This tiny, westerly island, dropping off the end of the archipelago into the Atlantic, seems to hide from its companions and look instead towards where the sun sets – it is dreaming of the wealth of the USA. Perhaps that is no surprise. For Brava is the island where the great 19th-century American whaling ships called to pick up crews and spirit hopeful young men away to new lives in another continent. The legacy is an island full of empty houses waiting for the return of the Americanos who have built them for their retirement.

Cidade Velha

This once-proud town, formerly known as Ribeira Grande, has had nearly 300 years to decay since the French robbed it of its wealth in 1712. Now there is just an ordinary village population living amongst the ruins of numerous churches, the great and useless fort watching over them from a hill behind. Its inhabitants are still poor but there have been efforts to develop some tourist potential in town and it is becoming a delightful place, with cafés on the shore, bright fishing boats in the harbour and a tourist information office, albeit one that is very shy about opening. It is magical to wander through the vegetation in the ribeira and in the surrounding hills to discover the ruins of what was once a pivot of the Portuguese Empire. It’s popular as a Sunday destination for city dwellers.

Maio was, and some would say still is, the forgotten island. Its quiet dunes and secret beaches have been overshadowed by the more boisterous Sal and beguiling Boavista. It has been waiting to be thrust into the tourist mainstream, and fleetingly it seemed that its time had come. But plans for a massive increase in accommodation have, at least for now, been thwarted and development projects stand gathering dust. How the transport and other infrastructure were ever intended to keep pace is unclear. For many, this is a blessing, as it leaves undisturbed this island backwater. With uncertainty over Maio’s future as a mass-market destination, restaurants and tourism-related businesses are susceptible to frequent changes of ownership and closure.

Visitor footfall is light. Those who live on Maio or visit it frequently justifiably claim that the island is overlooked in other ways. Flight times are often changed, cargo boats fail to materialise and as a consequence, the shops sometimes run short of supplies. But visitors may revel in the authentic feel that Maio possesses, the genuineness of the island and the seemingly gentle and welcome indifference of the inhabitants to grabbing hold of your hard-earned holiday spending money.

The wide streets, cobbled squares and 19th-century European architecture all contribute to the sense of colonial history in Mindelo. Most facilities lie not on the coastal road but on the next road back, which at the market end is called Rua de Santo António and, after being bisected by the Rua Libertadores d’Africa (also known as Rua de Lisboa), becomes Avenida 5 de Julho. Most road names in the centre of town have changed, but many of the old signs linger and firms vary  as to which street name they use. Like most towns in Cape Verde, street names are of limited use, and mentioning them when talking to locals will often draw a blank stare!

Monte Gordo National Park

Although there are 47 protected areas in Cape Verde, enshrined in law, all but Monte Gordo have an Achilles heel: their precise, mapped boundaries have not been legalised. This leaves them vulnerable. In Boavista, for example, there are several areas where land originally allocated for protection has been reallocated for tourism development instead.

In São Nicolau, however, the boundaries of its beautiful heart were officialised in 2007. Much work has been done and more is still underway to create a park that is pleasant for tourists and might enhance the prosperity of the people who live there.

It’s an important area ecologically because of its rich biodiversity. The unique conditions that have generated this interesting ecology set it apart, not just from the rest of the island but also from the rest of Cape Verde. At the heart of these differences is climate, which affects not just life in the area but also landscape. In the south and southeast there are humid and semi-humid regions. In the north and northwest it is arid.

A key aim of the park is to develop a thriving local economy predicated on conservation of the area: over 2,000 people live within the park boundaries. This is why a lot of thought has gone into training guides (who are salaried), and training local people to be useful to visitors, for example by making handicrafts. There is a good park office where you can get information and purchase handicrafts made exclusively on the island. The park certainly has potential, yet to be fulfilled.

Built on a tableland of rock, with the city overflowing on to the land below its steep cliffs, the centre of Praia – its Plateau – is attractive. It has a disorientating feel: it is indisputably African and yet Mediterranean as well.

Praia continues its rapid growth and the current estimated population is in excess of 130,000. Infrastructure – from sewage treatment to electricity generation – is finding it impossible to keep pace with this chaotic expansion. Journey to the outskirts of Palmarejo, where there is frenetic building, and you will see an entire hill being gradually, and illegally, hand-mined away. Some of the miners live in little caves in the hillside.

During the day, people of every shade of skin go about their business on the Plateau. At night, and on Sunday mornings, though, the Plateau is empty – life continues in the scattered regions beyond. To its south rises another level plain, the Achada Santo António, where the more affluent live in apartment blocks and where you’ll find the huge parliament building. Between the two lies Chã de Areia, and, in front of Achada, Prainha, where there are embassies, expensive hotels and nightclubs.

Ribeira do Paúl

A vast ribeira home to thousands of people and their agriculture – sugarcane, breadfruit and bananas – Paúl is renowned throughout the archipelago for its grogue , and one of its trapiches (sugarcanejuicing apparatus) is still driven by oxen. Highlights include Passagem, with its charming municipal park nestled among impressive almond trees and bougainvilleas. Beyond the villages of Lombinho and Cabo de Ribeira, up a steep incline, a panoramic view of the valley and ocean opens out. The road ends at Cabo de Ribeira, but a steep cobbled footpath continues to Cova, an impressive ancient crater now filled with verdant cultivation. Walk up or down, depending on your fitness and appetite for climbing; there are plenty of little shops and a few restaurants en route .

Santa Mónica Beach

This beach is well worth a visit, but do come prepared, particularly if you are walking. You will need food, suncream and loads of water. In a 4×4, follow the road through Povoação Velha. After 6km a very rough track deposits you on the beach, named after the famous Californian strand. The Boavistan version is undeniably magnificent but a good deal bleaker. Swimming is possible here because of its southern aspect.

Serra Malagueta

Situated in northern-central Santiago, Serra Malagueta is an important area ecologically and one of the last remaining forest resources on Santiago. It is the starting point for some classic Santiago hikes.

The heart of the area is now a natural park, which spans 774ha and reaches a height of 1,064m at the peak of Monte Malagueta. The park houses important threatened and endemic species. There is even one local endemic, the carqueja de Santiago , a small shrub that lives between 500m and 800m. The ecotourist facilities offered are not quite as well advanced as those in Fogo or São Nicolau but there is a newly relocated centre and the management has created a campsite and marked out (on a map and information boards) some suggested hikes covering in total 55km and with a wide range of difficulty and duration.

While hiking in the area, watch out for vervet monkeys and for the rare endemic Cape Verde purple heron or garça vermelha ( Ardea purpurea bournei ), which can be seen here in the trees near the Centro Ambiental. Santiago is its only home.

Tarrafal de Monte Trigo

This isolated spot on the west coast is hard to get to but definitely worth the effort. The road up, then down, from Porto Novo is spectacular, with breathtaking views over to São Vicente, Santa Luzia, São Nicolau and even Fogo, on a very clear day. It may not be passable in the rainy season, as bridges can be washed away. Your aluguer driver will probably stop if you want to take photos – and you undoubtedly will. The approach from the sea is also beautiful – a small spot of green colour amongst the brown-grey massifs of the mountains gradually resolves itself into the whites and pastels of this sleepy town. Around the black-sand shore – the longest stretch of beach in Santo Antão – fishermen relax, fierce games of oril click away under the trees, women wash clothes; and hens, pigs, goats and dogs go purposefully about their business.

Sea eagles are common here, so keep an eye open for them plucking their dinner from the ocean. This a great venue in which to do very little, a perfect place to relax at the beginning or end of a hiking holiday. Snorkelling and scuba diving are both possibilities, as is fishing with the locals. In the last few years, this sleepy backwater has begun to waken itself. Electricity is now available all day, mobile-phone coverage has arrived and Wi-Fi is available in some of the guesthouses. Further improvements to the infrastructure are underway, for better or worse.

Ponta Preta

A stunning beach with a single restaurant from which to appreciate it, Ponta Preta is a favourite of windsurfers and surfers. It is possible to reach the beach by walking for about an hour around the coast from Santa Maria. Alternatively, drive along the road that goes west from Santa Maria towards the resort hotels, turn right opposite Hotel Crioula and go straight ahead for approximately 2km. You will see, after a few minutes, the timber-built restaurant, and a minute after that you will find a rough track leading towards the water.

There is also a little wooden hut, where a man can be seen making handicrafts from fish bones and sandstone. (Some of his other products are imported from mainland West Africa.) Just north of Ponta Preta the Melia Group have a host of all-inclusive hotels on and around Algodoeiro Beach; the Melia Tortuga is home to Cabo Verde.

Related books

For more information, see our guide to Cape Verde :

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Cape Verde: a truly tasty melting pot

Author Murray Stewart talks about his time in Cape Verde and explains why it’s worth a visit.

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Dreamy beaches, lunar landscapes, and a melting pot of cultures await in Cape Verde.

Holidays in cape verde.

Nestled in the Atlantic Ocean off the coast of West Africa lies a hidden gem waiting to be explored – the Cape Verde Islands. With their pristine beaches, rugged landscapes, and vibrant culture, these volcanic islands offer a unique blend of natural beauty and cultural riches that captivate the hearts of travellers from around the world.

Just a six-hour flight from the UK, you’ll find the perfect mix of African, Brazilian, and Portuguese influences ready to be explored. From adventurous outdoor activities to immersive cultural experiences, whether you’re looking for a family holiday to remember or some romantic time in the sun- Cape Verde has it all.

Take your pick from luxury and family-friendly hotels to amazing facility-packed all-inclusive resorts with Hays Travel today. 

When is the best time to visit?: Cape Verde has a sub-tropical climate with average annual temperatures of between 24 and 30°C. With year-round sunshine mixed with cooling trade winds, the islands are perfect for beach breaks and lovers of sun. But typically, the best months to visit are in the late autumn or winter.

Where is the best place to stay in Dubai?: Sal is Cape Verde’s most popular island; combining an eye-catching, lunar landscape with colourful towns and perfect waters for water sports. On the south coast, Santa Maria has an eight-kilometre beach, traditional restaurants, and a café-lined square.

The island of Boa Vista is a favourite for beach lovers. This place lives up to its name ('beautiful view') with 55 kilometres of uninterrupted pristine-white sands bordering crystal-clear waters.

Travel guide

A new ‘kid on the block’ except with savvy holidaymakers, the former Portuguese territory of the Cape Verde islands is the perfect year-round destination for sun-filled holidays!

• Best time to visit: February-June
• Average temp: 25°C/77°F
• Average flight time: 6 Hours
• Most suited for: Couples
• Currency: Cape Verdean Escudo
• Time Difference: -1 hours

Immerse Yourself in Local Culture

The Cape Verde Islands are home to a rich and diverse cultural heritage shaped by centuries of history and influences from Africa, Europe, and the Americas. Explore the cobblestone streets and colonial architecture of the historic town of Cidade Velha on Santiago Island, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the oldest European settlements in the tropics. Experience the rhythms of traditional Cape Verdean music, such as morna and funaná, at lively festivals and street parties held throughout the islands. And don't miss the opportunity to sample the delicious local cuisine, which features fresh seafood, hearty stews, and tropical fruits bursting with flavour.

Explore the Beaches

With over 1,000 kilometres of coastline, the Cape Verde Islands boast some of the most breathtaking beaches in the world. From the powdery white sands of Santa Maria Beach on Sal Island to the dramatic cliffs and turquoise waters of Tarrafal Beach on Santiago Island, there's a beach for every traveller to enjoy. Activity fans will love water sports from windsurfing, kitesurfing, and scuba diving to surfing and sailing. Not forgetting horse-riding along beaches, quad biking, and ATV adventures. Whether you're seeking relaxation, water sports, or simply stunning views, the beaches of Cape Verde are not to be missed.

Hike the Volcanic Landscapes

The Cape Verde Islands are home to a rugged terrain of volcanic peaks, deep valleys, and rocky cliffs, making them a paradise for hikers and outdoor enthusiasts. Lace up your hiking boots and embark on a trek to the summit of Pico do Fogo on Fogo Island, where you'll be rewarded with panoramic views of the surrounding landscape and the crater of the island's active volcano. Or explore the lush valleys and mountain trails of Santo Antão, known as the "Island of Peaks," where you can encounter waterfalls, lush vegetation, and charming rural villages along the way.

Food & Drink

With an array of restaurants, bars, and cafes to choose from serving local and international fare, there’s plenty of choice when it comes to satisfying your hunger pangs or quenching your thirst on a Cape Verde holiday.

The local cuisine is influenced by Creole, Portuguese, Brazilian, and African flavours. No holiday to Cape Verde would be complete without trying Cachupa, Cachupa Rica, Cado de Peixe au Caiderado, Lagosta Suada, and Percebes with Doce de Papaya and Bol de Cus-Cus for dessert.

Average monthly temperature in Cape Verde (°C)

• Jan 23 °C
• Feb 23 °C
• Mar 23 °C
• Apr 23 °C
• May 23 °C
• Jun 24 °C
• Jul 26 °C
• Aug 27 °C
• Sep 27 °C
• Oct 27 °C
• Nov 26 °C
• Dec 25 °C

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