patek aquanaut travel time price

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Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time ref. 5164A

Here's all you need to know about Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time ref. 5164A

The Origins

Debuting in 1997, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut was released to engage with a new kind of clientele - a younger, sportier, and trendier watch collector that was newly minted on the back of the dot.com stock market explosion. Released under the same premise as the Nautilus when it was released in 1976 – a trendy sports watch for a new clientele, the Aquanaut raised suspicions from Patek’s traditional collectors with its position as the first Patek to feature a rubber strap – something collectors saw as a cheap design option at the time. Following on from its debut, the Aquanaut has grown into a rather diverse collection of iconic and sought-after timepieces, with the reference we have here standing as one of the most desirable, the Aquanaut Travel-time ref. 5164 .

Debuting as Patek Philippe’s second sports watch, the Aquanaut was built upon the foundations that the Nautilus had already laid twenty years prior, while also expanding into new territory that the Nautilus and Patek Philippe as a whole had never resided within before. Released in 1997, the Aquanaut updated the Nautilus’ sporty design so as to offer greater performance while also remaining trendy and stylish, so as to speak to a new younger clientele. Additionally, the Aquanaut boasted Patek Philippe’s renowned craftsmanship as Patek Philippe sought to appease their traditional customer base and maintain the standards that had earned them their place within the watchmaking hierarchy.

Sporting a tropical rubber strap – a first for Patek at the time, a softened octagonal bezel and an interestingly textured dial, the Aquanaut began life with a rather slow start, but eventually found its footing in the marketplace. With 120m of water resistance and its casual aesthetic, the Aquanaut forged its place within Patek’s catalogue, a place that it has today rightfully kept since the collection’s debut. As one might imagine, the Aquanaut has seen several references join its ranks, and one of the most complicated of them all is the Travel Time ref. 5164 that we are exploring today.

Released in 2011, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time has proven to be wildly successful as Patek broadened the scope of their sportiest model and filled it with features that are functional in the real-world. The very first Aquanaut to feature a complication beyond just a date display, the ref. 5164A houses a list of practical functions that have driven demand towards this incredibly casual and sporty exploration of Patek Philippe’s talents as a watchmaker.

The Case and Dial

Perhaps the Aquanaut’s most obvious link to the Nautilus is its case shape and construction. Famed for its soft octagonal shape, the Nautilus’ imprint on the Aquanaut is obvious, with the corners of the Aquanaut’s eight-sided bezel even softer than its sibling. Additionally, another link to the Nautilus’ case is the shape of the Aquanaut’s crown guards which resemble the porthole hinges that flank either side of the Nautilus’ case. Adding some individuality to the Aquanaut’s case are its lugs, which give the watch a more casual aesthetic than the Nautilus simply as it more closely resembles a typical watch that you might see every day directly as a result.

Following on from the introduction of the ref. 5167, its time and date-only sibling, the Aquanaut Travel Time ref. 5164 managed to stay within an unchanged case diameter of 40.8mm. However, its two pushers at 8 and 10 o’clock do mean the ref. 5164 wears slightly larger than its billed diameter of 40.8mm. Of course, with its greater complexity, one would rightfully assume that they ref. 5164 would be thicker than the ref. 5167, and it is – coming in at 13.4mm tall. While this is a big jump from the ref. 5167’s 8.3mm tall case, the greater functionality is worth the trade-off. Also, given that some collectors prefer their watches to feel hefty on their wrist, the ref. 5164 is by no means outside of the realm of normality for a lot of collectors.

Moving past its case brings us to what resides inside of it, the ref. 5164’s stunning sunburst grey dial. Slightly brighter in its centre than other black dial Aquanauts like the ref. 5167A, the color of the ref. 5164’s dial helps to differentiate it from its less complicated siblings, while still retaining a link to their design language. Boasting a pointer date subdial at 6 o’clock that is flanked by two AM/PM apertures at 3 and 9 o’clock, which correspond to the ref. 5164’s two hour hands, this dial is sleek and well-designed.

The Movement

Powering these complications such as its skeletonised second hour hand, twin AM/PM apertures and pointer date subdial is the ref. 5164’s cal. 324 S C FUS movement. The epitome of Patek's incredibly intuitive design the ref. 5164 can quickly provide its wearer with their local and home time at a glance, alongside their AM/PM status, while also being operable at the press of a pusher on the 9 o’clock side of the case, as mentioned. A stunningly symmetrical layout on one of Patek's most iconic modern designs, the ref. 5164 is perhaps the ultimate stainless steel Aquanaut thanks to its sports-orientated design and impressive utility as a functional watch for the jet-setters amongst us.

Of course, as a sports watch from Patek, the Aquanaut ref. 5164 has proven to be immensely popular with celebrities who favour it for its toned-down and casual presence on the wrist thanks to its rubber strap and softer lines than a watch like the Nautilus, making it an easier watch to wear when trying to fly under the radar. With its black on black colour combination and thicker case, it would be easy to miss a ref. 5164A on the wrist of a passer-by, and so it has become a darling of the rich and famous, with celebrities like Ellen DeGeneres, John Mayer, Virgil Van Dijk, Chris Paul and David Beckham’s son Romeo all seen sporting this wonderfully useful watch.

Market Performance

Like other sports watches from high-end brands like Patek Philippe, the Aquanaut is a truly sought-after watch across the board. Thanks to its rubber strap and stainless steel case, even the ref. 5164 comes in at a relatively affordable MSRP of $42580, which has driven demand for it from Patek Philippe’s authorized dealers. As a result of this demand, the ref. 5164A commands a market value of $82000, which is a price premium of 93% over its retail price.

However, towards the height of the market, the ref. 5164A was known to sell on the open market in excess of $100000, with Christies selling one example in April 2022 for HKD 819000, which was about $105000 at the time. While the ref. 5164A’s market value has softened along with the rest of the market’s overall performance, the ref. 5164A was discontinued at Watches & Wonders 2024, which has led to it seeing a 1.7% gain in the last 90 days, a trend that will likely continue as the only Aquanaut models offering travel time functionalities are now all precious metals such as rose gold and white gold.

Check out the live performance of Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time ref. 5164A at The Wristcheck Index

Review – Patek Philippe Advanced Research Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5650G (And History of the Advanced Research Program)

Earlier this year, Patek Philippe unveiled the limited-edition Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5650G, featuring the latest technology developed by its Advanced Research program. With its unusual aesthetics and impressive technological advances, it quickly became one of the most talked about watches at Baselworld. Today, we’re going hands-on with this incredible timepiece to learn more about what Patek Philippe is calling ‘ two important innovations in the field of horological design ’ and to see just how practical the watch is for everyday wear and use.

Patek Philippe Advanced Research

For many people, Patek Philippe is a prestigious but conservative watch brand, focused primarily on traditional designs and historic complications. And while there is some truth in that description, the Geneva-based watch manufacturer is also highly innovative, constantly seeking to develop new technologies and improve on existing ones. Throughout the course of its 178-year history, the Maison has developed dozens of complications, displays and technical solutions, including the Gyromax balance patented in 1949/1951, which allows for the inertia of the balance to be adjusted without changing the active length of the hair-spring, and of course the invention of the annual calendar in 1996. It was this same pioneering spirit that led to the establishment of the Patek Philippe Advanced Research project in the early 2000s.

The turn of the century was a very fruitful time in watchmaking, with new technologies, and more particularly, new materials being discovered and developed. One material which caused significant debate and which is now widely used and accepted, is silicon. Observing the growing importance of this material and of the manufacturing processes linked to it (such as LIGA and DRIE technology), Patek Philippe moved quickly to get involved. With its independence ever a priority, the company chose to focus on close cooperation with independent development facilities such as the CSEM research laboratory and the Ecole Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne (Swiss Federal Institute of Technology Lausanne) that operates world-leading micromechanical and electronics research institutes in Neuchâtel. The researchers at Patek Philippe also often collaborate with colleagues at other respected manufactures, but the primary focus is on creating proprietary innovations.

The Ref. 5250 Annual Calendar Patek Philippe Advanced Research

The goal of the manufacture in establishing this project was to launch an avant-garde innovation program that enriched traditional development activities with research in the domains of “new materials,” “new manufacturing technologies,” and “new conceptual fundamentals.” The first big development was Silinvar®, a patented material based on monocrystalling silicon, which was developed jointly by Patek Philippe, Rolex, and the Swatch Group together with the CSEM in Neuchâtel, and unveiled in 2005. In addition to being virtually unaffected by temperatures ranging between -10°C and +60°C, this new material was extremely lightweight (only a third of the mass of steel, whilst being twice as hard), required no lubrication, was corrosion resistant and antimagnetic.

In that same year, the first escape wheel made of Silinvar® was unveiled, housed in the limited-edition Ref. 5250 Annual Calendar Patek Philippe Advanced Research. Aesthetically the watch was very classic looking, however, the sapphire exhibition caseback of the Ref. 5250 revealed a magnifier over the escape wheel and a specific bridge formation to allow for unobstructed views of this innovative escape wheel.

Since then, several notable innovations have followed from the Advanced Research project, including the Spiromax® balance spring made of Silinvar® (2006), the Pulsomax® escapement made of Silinvar® (2008), and the Oscillomax® ensemble (Pulsomax® escapement with GyromaxSi® balance and Spiromax® balance spring) (2011). As with the original unveiling of the Silinvar® escape wheel, each time a new technology was introduced, the manufacture launched special limited-edition timepieces that were the first to be endowed with one of the state-of-the-art solutions developed by the Patek Philippe Advanced Research venture. Each model featured a distinctly classic design aesthetic on the dial – consistent with what we’re used to from Patek Philippe – and a sapphire exhibition caseback for displaying the latest innovation in the movement.

The Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5650 continues this proud tradition of showcasing the latest technology from the Patek Philippe Advanced Research team in a limited-edition timepiece, albeit with some notable differences. For a start, it’s the first Advanced Research model not to be presented in a round case. It’s also the first that doesn’t feature an annual or perpetual calendar. Lastly, and more obviously, one of the technical innovations being presented is displayed boldly on the dial side, resulting in a watch that is far more futuristic-looking than we’re used to seeing from Patek. Before we get side-tracked with the aesthetics – we’ll come back to that later – let’s talk some more about these two innovations.

Innovation. 1: A new Spiromax® balance spring with a patented terminal curve and an inner boss

It’s been just over a decade since Patek Philippe introduced the Spiromax® balance spring and ever since, the company has been working to make it even better. Following several years of R&D, the manufacture unveiled its new spring, which sees the original outer boss now paired with an inner boss. The outer boss, also referred to as the Patek Philippe terminal curve, improves the isochronism of the balance in all positions by assuring the adequately concentric expansion and contraction of the balance spring. Conversely, the inner boss offsets positional changes of the centre of gravity to assure the highest possible rate accuracy in vertical orientations. This means that the watch will not run slower or faster regardless of its orientation.

As a result of these new developments, Patek Philippe announced that watches fitted with this new balance spring could be adjusted with a mean rate of -1 to +2 seconds per 24 hours. The Patek Philippe Seal imposes very stringent requirements on all the manufacture’s mechanical watches. The mean rate of movements with a diameter of more than 20 mm must range within -3 to +2 seconds per day. For Patek Philippe tourbillon timepieces, the tolerance is a strict 3 seconds per 24 hours, which means that models fitted with the new Spiromax® balance spring can match the rate accuracy of a Patek Philippe movement with a tourbillon. The objective is to gradually integrate the balance spring with this geometry into the current production schedule, demonstrating that the role of the Advanced Research Project is to benefit the entire Patek production and of course the eventual owners of the watches.

Innovation. 2:  Time zone corrections with compliant (flexible) mechanism in steel

The second innovation, which is on display on the dial side of the watch, is a time zone correction system that uses a single flexible piece of steel to adjust the GMT indication forwards and backwards. The main part of this mechanism consists of four crossed leaf springs – two for each corrector button (one for the setting lever, one for the beak that advances the gear rim), each with defined pressure points. Each individual leaf spring is extremely thin, and they cross over each other at a distance of just 150 microns. Also manufactured in conventional horological steel, the development of the whole system required sophisticated computer simulations and over 500 hours of computer modelling. Cutting-edge, computer-programmable machines were then used to manufacture the components, which explains why this type of technological advancements using simple steel was not feasible before.

The result is really quite impressive. Before the development of this new part, the standard GMT mechanism was comprised of 37 individual parts. Now, it has been reduced down to just 12 parts, and perhaps more importantly, there are no gears or pivots. This means there is no mechanical play, no friction, and no arbor wear, which means completely lubricant-free functionality. It also means faster assembly – there are just 4 screws holding it all together – and a flatter silhouette (1.24 mm versus 1.45 mm). Excitingly, according to the brand, this first foray into “flexible mechanisms”, a new domain of research inspired by Professor Henein who holds a chair funded by Patek Philippe, has also opened-up totally new perspectives for numerous future applications in mechanical horology. In other words, watch this space.

The Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5650G

So, what about the Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5650G itself, what’s it like on the wrist? And what about the unusual decision by Patek Philippe to have a semi-open worked dial to display the new time-zone mechanism? Well, for starters, on the wrist it is very comfortable. Presented in a 18K white-gold case measuring 40.8 mm in diameter and 11 mm thick, it’s not quite as polarizing as the press photos might suggest once you have it on. Like the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Jumbo 5168G , which was also unveiled at Baselworld, it has a gorgeous navy blue gradient dial with contrasting applied Arabic numerals and indices in white. As with the other Travel Time watches in the Patek Philippe collection, it displays the local time and date as well as a second time-zone, and a day/night indicator for both time zones. The pushers on the left-hand side of the case can be used to advance the time forwards or backwards by one hour when you travel, which also updates the day/night indicators and date as necessary.

The big kicker of course, for hardcore Patek fan, in particular, is the partially open-worked dial, which puts the time-zone correction mechanism on full display. This was a bold decision by Patek as it’s a much more futuristic look from the brand than its buyers are used to but ultimately, I think it was the right one. Showcasing the technology in this way immediately allows the user to not only see it in action in real time but also to marvel at how apparently simple in construction it appears.

The other thing to keep in mind is that this Patek Philippe we’re talking about, which means that all the surfaces of the new mechanical setting have been carefully finished and decorated according to Geneva watchmaking traditions. The visible surfaces are precision ground, the invisible undersides carefully brushed, and the insides of the leaf springs sandblasted. All edges are meticulously chamfered and polished (except, for functional reasons, those of the leaf springs). The surfaces around the bores for the mounting screws are circular grained. Under the loupe the level of detail is astonishing but even just looking at it with the naked eye it is visually quite attractive, albeit somewhat unexpected at first.

Visible through the sapphire caseback is Patek’s automatic calibre 324 S C FUS, complete with the new Spiromax® balance spring. Measuring 31mm in diameter it beats at a steady 28,800vph and offers a max power reserve of 45 hours. Adorned with the Patek Philippe Seal, the movement is beautifully finished and is rated to -1/+2 seconds maximum daily rate deviation. Limited to just 500 pieces, the Patek Philippe Advanced Research Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5650G retails for 53,500 Euro . Aesthetically, it may not be to everyone’s taste but the importance of the technology it houses is undeniable. The big question, of course, is what’s coming next?  patek.com .

Technical Specifications – Patek Philippe Advanced Research Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5650

• Case : 40.8mm diameter x 11m thick – 18k white gold, polished and brushed – sapphire crystal on both sides – 120m water resistant
• Movement : Caliber 324 S C FUS, in-house – Patek Philippe Seal – automatic – Spiromax® balance spring with a patented terminal curve and an inner boss – 4Hz frequency – 45h power reserve – hours, minutes, seconds, date, second time-zone, day/night indicator
• Strap : Night blue composite strap embossed with same checkerboard pattern as dial – double-security fold-over clasp in 18K white gold
• Price : 53,500 Euro – Limited Edition of 500 pieces

5 responses

This looks appealing, unfortunately I have 1 more child to put through Uni 🙁

Would I love to own a Patek Phillipe of course I would, could I afford to buy one, no! (Unless someone’s willing to give me one?). That’s not going to happen. So I continue to buy lower priced watches, and you know, even they still work.

“The big kicker of course, for hardcore Patek fan, in particular, is the partially open-worked dial, which puts the time-zone correction mechanism on full display.”

The timepiece appears “undone” in a word. Appearance unbalanced. At first glance, a woman doesn’t display her inner self.

Great article! I am just getting interested in watches and there seem to be a ton of watches out there! I am considering buying a new watch but considering my very limited watch knowledge, I thought I’d ask you for some advise. A watch that caught my eye was this one: http://www.epoch.se/index.php?route=product/product&path=33&product_id=63 but I am not sure it’s good? So I thought I’d ask for your advise. What do you think? Thank you in advance Erica

Dial looks like half cyborg, the watch having part of it’s face missing.Not pretty, especially at the price. I’ll just have the regular Aquanaut please, Don’t understand why anyone would pay more for this.If I’m buying Patek I expect elegance not something that looks like it’s from Terminator 6 or whatever number they are up to. I’m sure it’s a fine watch but it’s definitely the ugly version.

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The 10 Best Sports Watches of 2024 (So Far)

Durable, waterproof, shock-resistant, legible and—above all else—stylish, these are the watches you're going to want to wear all day every day., allen farmelo, allen farmelo's most recent stories, iwc’s new n.y.c. boutique is an espresso bar that doubles as a high-tech watch atelier.

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We brought you the best dress watches of 2024 recently , and in that article we defined the dress watch. The sports watch is effectively the opposite of a dress watch. It must be waterproof, which often (though not always) makes sports watches thicker, wider, and heavier than dressers (except when crafted from ceramic and carbon, of course). A sports watch must be highly legible (unless diamond encrusted or otherwise prioritizing form over function). It must be durable, shock-resistant, scratch proof, and, above all else, a functional-yet-stylish watch you can wear 24/7/365.

The sports-watch category first emerged after World War II as profession-oriented tool watches—often developed for military use first (think pilots watch, or SCUBA watch)—became increasingly fashionable for civilians. The cultural impulse there is interesting: Some men, whose identities and adrenaline-cycles were wrapped up in having served as soldiers, began to chafe against their comfortable civilian roles in the suburban middle class. Khaki trousers, aviator sunglasses and bomber jackets—each a military staple—became a means for civilians to gain back some of that wartime masculinity.

In 1953, Marlon Brando took that look and attitude to extremes in The Wild One , and by the 1960s Steve McQueen and Paul Newman had become icons of a newly minted rugged, casual masculinity that called for tool watches. Look at how the commensurate Boomer Joe Biden dresses today—Ray-Ban aviators and Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 always on—and you get the idea.

By the 1970s, the sports watch went upmarket, with precious metals, diamonds, and price tags to match becoming the disco-ready norm. During that decade, the Gerald Genta-designed high-end sports watch with an integrated bracelet was born: first was Genta’s Royal Oak for Audemars Piguet (1972), then his Patek Philippe Nautilus and IWC Ingenieur SL (both 1976). After that, the elegant sports-watch category flourished across brands, and it flourished again starting around 2018 in an overwhelming demand for integrated bracelet watches .

2024 is shaping up to be yet another banner year for the sports watch, though with some of the bigger brands— and most notably Rolex — taking the bling down a few notches and returning to the toolish nature deep in the genre’s DNA. Personally, I find this a refreshing break from the look-at-me aesthetics of the previous few years, and I’m pleased to present the following timepieces as the very best of 2024’s sports watches.

Rolex GMT Master II

Thank you, Rolex, for acting like Rolex again . This is the GMT Master II that was missing from the modern catalog for far too long. The gray and black bezel is borrowed from the solid gold and two-tone versions of the GMT Master II. Without the gilded contrast, however, this monochromatic bezel merges into the Oystersteel (904L) case, allowing the Rolex-green GMT hand and single line of text to—I won’t say pop—but sit in the design with sublime understatement that’s becoming of a proper Rolex Professional model. Sometimes it’s best not to try so hard, to return to basics, and let the timelessness of a great design do the talking. However, it may be much more difficult to get one at retail than it was back in the good old days.

Size: 40 mm Water resistance: 100 meters Movement: Caliber 3285 with date and 24-hour GMT hand Price: $10,900 on Jubilee, $10,700 on Oyster bracelet

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar ‘John Mayer’

John, well done, man. Let’s get to the guts, which are what Audemars Piguet claims are the very last of the venerable caliber 5134 self-winding perpetual calendar movements, something of a legendary machine. Only 200 of these John Mayer Royal Oaks will be offered to select clients, and apparently that’s the end of caliber 5134—which I confess bums me out a little. Now, let’s talk about water resistance, which is only 20 meters here, making this watch fall somewhat short of the sports-watch requirements I’ve laid out above. However, in the spirit of elevating the sports watch, Audemars Piguet has managed to offer a self-winding perpetual calendar—one of the most densely packed movements in the world—in a white gold case that’s only 41 mm across and a mere 9.5 mm tall. Damn, those are sexy dimensions, and no one is going SCUBA diving with this thing anyways, right John? The “Crystal Blue” seems to set the sub-dials into a galaxy of horological awesomeness.

Size: 41 mm x 9.5 mm Water resistance: 30 meters Movement: caliber 5134 self-winding perpetual calendar Price: Upon request (limited to 200 pieces)

Patek Philippe Reference 5164G Aquanaut Travel Time

I am not alone among the watch aficionados here at Robb Report in finding the denim straps Patek Philippe attached to far too many of its 2024 models a bit uncool. Was this a bid for a youthful audience? Maybe that denim strap just doesn’t fly for us Americans who invented Levi’s and have strong opinions about which shade of denim is acceptable and which parts of the body denim belongs on (i.e., not wrists). With that complaint aired, I did find the blue dials Patek Philippe offered this year gorgeous, and when the brand puts a proper rubber strap on the new white gold Aquanaut Travel Time, it’s like drinking a cool glass of water from a pristine Alps-fed Swiss lake. The movement is one of the best going, with dual-hour hands for tracking home and local time zones, plus subtle indicators of a.m./p.m. for both home and local time. So smart, so chic, so unsuited to light blue denim.

Size:  40.8 mm x 10.2 mm Water resistance:  120 meters Movement: Caliber 26-330 S C FUS  Price:  $63,043

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor

I’m a sucker for a salmon dial —and perhaps we should use the proper term here, which is “gilded dial.” If you like these dials, too, then you’ll be in for a treat considering the dressiest-of-dressy dials housed inside a super cool stainless steel case providing a full 100 meters of water resistance. “Every element of this timepiece reflects our vision of discreet and timeless refinement,” says Parmigiani CEO Guido Terreni. The lack of complication here—very much unlike the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar above—allows Parmigiani to scale this one down to just 7.8 mm thick. That’s nuts, really, and super sexy on the wrist. Like all movements from the maison in Fleurier, Switzerland, the Parmigiani caliber PF703 is finished to a level on par with Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, which are known for the art. The micro-rotor is effective and fun to watch through the rear window.

Size:  40 mm x 7.8 mm Water resistance: 100 meters Movement: Caliber PF703 Price:  $25,300

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time in Pink Gold With Green Dial

If you’ve never tried on a Vacheron Constantin Overseas, you’re just not getting the full picture of how incredible these watches are. I’ve personally watched two reasonable men who held reservations about both the brand and the model become instant converts when slipping an Overseas onto their wrist. One of them bought one within a week. Why so good? It’s the size, first; this watch wears like every other 40 mm watch, despite being 42.5 mm across. Then there’s the finishing, which is off the chart—truly unsurpassed, in my opinion (the movement wears the Geneva Seal ). But the star of the show may be the bracelet, which is gorgeous, super comfortable, and easily swapped out in under 30 seconds for the included rubber or leather options, both of which are best in class. Pink gold? Green dial? Move over Rolex, there’s a new king of the verdant shades in town.

Size: 41 mm x 12 mm Water resistance: 150 meters Movement: Caliber 5110 DT/2 dual-time with auto-winding system Price:  $75,500

Girard-Perregaux Laureto 42 mm in Rose Gold With Green Dial

Look familiar? Some mistake these for Royal Oaks, and obviously this model matches Vacheron’s offering into the category for 2024, as seen above. However, we can’t say that Vacheron Constantin started the green dial trend, nor can we say that Vacheron is as up to the minute as Girard-Perregaux with this lovely sage green clous de Paris dial —that term referring to the tiny pyramids that make up this dial’s engraving pattern. During the integrated-bracelet craze of a few years ago , GP came to the rescue of those desperate to have a great Swiss sportster on their wrists, and the Laureto has pretty much joined the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Patek Philippe Nautilus, and Vacheron Overseas as a must-have for enthusiasts and collectors—as it should, having been born in 1975, just before the Genta-designed Patek and IWC offerings in the category. It’s slim, robust, drop-dead gorgeous and you have a shot at buying one at retail. What else do you want?

Size: 42 mm x 10.68 mm Water resistance: 50 meters Movement: Caliber GP01800 auto-winding mechanical in-house movement with pink gold oscillating weight Price: $51,900

Blancpain 42 mm Fifty Fathoms in Titanium

There’s a rose gold version of this watch that is just beautiful. However, when a dear old friend of mine wandered into the Blancpain boutique on Madison Avenue earlier this week, he tried on the new titanium 42 mm Fifty Fathoms and—I kid you not—promptly said to the gentleman, “Ring me up, Pete!” Why titanium over the gorgeous solid gold? Because on the full titanium bracelet he still didn’t feel like he was wearing much of anything, and because the Fifty Fathoms was, upon its release in 1953, a military-derived tool for civilians. The vibes of the titanium model are 100 percent in keeping with those important post-World War II historical roots. As for the size, Blancpain is responding to requests for a more reasonably proportioned Fifty Fathoms, which the 45 mm is not for those of smaller build. Also, the movement is beautiful, with a solid-gold rotor (for a-magnetism, in fact) plated in dark-gray rhodium to preserve the toolish look of this amazing dive watch. It’s available on rubber, NATO nylon, sailcloth or titanium bracelet—but go for the bracelet, as my buddy so wisely did.

Size: 42 mm x 14.2 mm Water resistance: 300 meters Movement: Caliber 1315 with date complication and 5-day power reserve Price: $19,300 on bracelet

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional With White Lacquer Dial

I’m not really a “Speedy guy,” but when I tried this one on recently it blew my proverbial hair back. For me, it’s all about that gorgeous white lacquered dial, a first for the Speedmaster, and hopefully not the last. The touches of red, Omega insists, are meant to help this chronograph resemble the astronaut suits of the early NASA era, and while that may not reign among the most important features of this highly technical timepiece, it may be those little red bits that set this watch apart from the otherwise mostly monochromatic Speedmaster Moonwatches, of which there seem to be a dizzying number on offer. Omega has truly sorted out its Speedmaster bracelets, and the Co-Axial escapement inside the caliber 3861 movement is among the many high-tech features on view through the crystal caseback. I don’t often condone a clear caseback on a tool watch, but this one is totally appropriate.

Size: 42 mm x 13.2 mm Water resistance: 50 meters Movement: Caliber 3861 manually wound chronograph with Co-Axial escapement Price: $8,100

Singer Reimagined Divetrack

I didn’t think the dive watch could be improved upon, expanded in functionality or even designed differently, and perhaps the last company on Earth I’d have imagined doing just that was Singer, the custom builder of Porsche 911 platforms into million-dollar four-wheel masterpieces . And yet here it all is: the Divetrack. I don’t want to go too far into it, or you’ll never finish reading this article, but know that this watch is a chronograph that times not only your dives on the ultra-legible minute track, but also your surface intervals on the central 24-hour timing scale, which extends for hours until it’s safe for you to fly again after diving. If you want to tell the time of day, you’ll be looking at the side of the case against your wrist where this secondary info is relegated to a compelling ultra-wide aperture. It’s a huge watch, but titanium, and therefore light. This is really a mechanical dive computer, so I can roll with the girth, for sure. There will only be 25 made.

Size: 49 mm x 19.67 mm Water resistance: 300 meters Movement: AgenGraph 24-hour auto-winding chronograph Price: $93,800

Tudor Black Bay 58 18K on Bracelet

I know, it’s another green and gold sport watch. Call it a trend! For some die-hard Rolex fans, Tudor has no business flying north of the mid-$5,000 price point, but Tudor disagrees. At $32,000, Rolex’s little sibling is starting to punch up and hard with the new Black Bay 58 with a solid, yellow-gold bracelet. I wish this watch photographed (or 3-D-modelled) better, because in person that green is magical—not as mossy as it seems, but, yes, mossy, and not as loud as it seems, but not totally subdued either. It’s like one of those 1970s Mercedes greens that seems like five different colors at once. But what really sets this watch apart is the abundance of brushed gold, which downplays this timepiece in the best possible way. For those who don’t know, Tudor’s T-Clasp expansion system for the folding clasp is widely considered to be nearly as good as—perhaps better than—Rolex’s brilliant Glidelock system. Further enhancing this yellow gold bracelet is Tudor removing the polarizing faux rivets from the links, which smooths things out in the most satisfying way. Now if we can just get the brand to do that to all the Black Bays. 

Size: 39 mm x 12.7 mm Water resistance: 200 meters Movement: Caliber MT5400 COSC auto-winding mechanical (no date) Price: $32,000

Allen is Robb Report's digital watch editor. His writing and photography have appeared in Fortune, Hodinkee, WatchTime, International Watch and many others. When he's not obsessing over vintage…

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Pre-Owned Picks A Rolex 'Polar' Explorer II With Patina, A Patek Philippe Aquanaut, And A TAG Heuer Monaco

Plus a two-tone cartier roadster, and an iwc portuguese chronograph in green..

Each week, we present a selection of our favorite watches from the pre-owned side of our collection. We photograph each one so that you get a closer look at what makes these watches so special. This week, we have a Rolex "Polar" Explorer II, a Patek Philippe Aquanaut, a TAG Heuer Monaco, a Cartier Roadster, and an IWC Portuguese Chronograph.

The Rolex Explorer II almost needs no introduction. As the evolution of the original Explorer (and then this being the evolution of that evolution), the 40mm neo-vintage darling brings '90s charm to a tried and tested dual-time recipe. Where we consider the GMT-Master to be a GMT, the Explorer II was crafted as a true explorer's timepiece that allows for AM/PM differentiation which was designed for cave diving. Nowadays it works just fine as a GMT.

This particular example has aged beautifully with patina on the markers which play against the stark white, polar dial. Key aestehtic callouts here are the black surrounds on the markers, the red GMT hand, and the satin steel bezel with a 24-hour readout. These neo-vintage Explorer II models are certainly having their moment.

You often hear folks talking about their love for the Patek Philippe Nautilus – how they wish they could get their hands on one, how it's their grail watch. Well, in the past few years, another Patek has snuck into grail territory and has become just as much unobtanium as the Nautilus. Today we are featuring that very watch: The Aquanaut.

Consider this the sequel to the Nautilus with a different sort of sporty feel, a highly legible dial with applied Arabic numerals and that iconic rubber strap. This watch is, in some ways, Patek's take on an absolute, do anything, go anywhere, everyday watch. Oh, and we love it.

We have just come off the Grand Prix Historique in Monaco, so what better time to talk about the watch called Monaco? It's the watch made famous by Steve McQueen known best for its unique square shape and oh so '70s look and feel. This year the model range was updated but today are looking at an example that pays homage to the original.

What we have is the classic blue dial iteration in a stunning sunray execution. The balance of the blue with the red flourishes against the sub-seconds counters creates an automatic chronograph steeped in history with enough modern touches to make it feel fresh along with the use of the Calibre 12.

Speaking of watches on the tips of everyone's tongues, when it comes to Cartier it's undoubtedly the Tank and the Santos. We rarely look to the Roadster with its unique case shape that houses all the design codes we know and love from the brand.

Today's Roadster comes in a two-tone configuration and has an ornate dial layout with Roman numerals. It comes affixed to a matching two-tone bracelet with a hidden clasp and boasts a magnified date window that flows seamlessly into the crown. This is Art Deco design at its finest.

We have written about the IWC Portuguese Chronograph countless times here on Hodinkee and for good reason. Outside of the normal boundaries of sports chronographs, this watch has established itself as a true icon in the realm of horology that blends sport and dress. It's a watch with a particular style that is decidedly, and entirely, its own thing.

Today we have a green dial iteration which is a color variation we do not often see. The deep sunray green finish to the dial nicely compliments the Arabic numerals circumventing the large surface area of this 42mm chrono. It comes affixed to a leather strap and stands out as a unique offering within the Portuguese line.

For more, visit the Hodinkee Shop.

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