domus aurea tour

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Domus Aurea Tour (Nero’s Golden House)

Explore Nero's incredible Golden House and relive the excesses of the ancient emperor

Price 69 €

(95 Reviews)

• tour overview
• tour description
• tour reviews

duration 2 hours

group size Max. 22

Tour Overview

Descend into the lost world of ancient Rome and relive the opulent life of antiquity’s most notorious emperor on our exclusive tour of Nero’s Golden House. The emperor’s vast palace - known as the Domus Aurea because its every surface glittered with gold – was ancient Rome’s most spectacular building, and scarcely believable highlights included a rotating dining room open to the starry night sky and a massive artificial lake. Nero’s immense party pad was bulldozed and buried to make way for the Colosseum shortly after his suicide, but on this tour you’ll have the unique opportunity to wander its soaring halls again accompanied by an expert archaeologist. We’ll be able to envisage the palace in all its original glory just as it was in the time of Nero himself - keep your eyes peeled and you might just catch a glimpse of his ghost roaming the abandoned halls! *** All participants 18 and over must book as adults, there is no older student discount available for this itinerary, and due to new regulations for Domus tickets, all participants must provide full names immediately upon booking ***

• Exclusive access to the Domus Aurea
• Tickets and reservation fees
• Expert English-speaking archaeologist guide

• Stunning ancient frescoes
• The Octagonal room
• The Room of Achilles and Skyros
• The Room of Hector and Andromache

Tour Description

Discover ancient rome's best kept secret.

Your tour begins immediately after a brief introduction to the site's historical context provided by our archaeologist. Don your hard hat and you are ready to start your journey! 

We offer two special experiences on this tour: an incredible exploration of the colossal spaces of Emperor Nero’s villa, the famous Domus Aurea (Golden House), recently reopened to the public in a remarkable state of conservation, that gives you the chance to relive the splendour of the palace's rooms, gardens and incredible porticos. 

We only offer this tour of Nero’s Golden House on Friday, Saturday and Sunday.

The Fascinating History of Nero's Golden House

The Domus Aurea was an enormous complex of buildings, courtyards and gardens that extended from the Palatine Hill to the Esquiline Hill in Rome, covering the whole of the Oppian Hill - that’s an area of over 90 hectares!

Nero's main residence was on the Palatine, and from there an incredible number of buildings branched off which are still connected today via giant underground arcades (such as Nero’s Cryptoporticus, still accessible today and part of his Domus Transitoria on the Palatine Hill, which was destroyed by fire in 64 AD). Much more than a house (domus in Latin), it was a city within a city that unfolded around a vast artificial lake, the Stagnus Neronis (where the Colosseum would later be built). The buildings were surrounded by cultivated land, vineyards, pastures and forests filled with all manner of domestic and wild animals. In the main courtyard of the Domus stood a colossal statue, representing Nero as the Sun God. The pavilions on the Oppian Hill alone consisted of 200 rooms, many of them rediscovered by archaeologists, and which you will explore on our visit to Rome's most exclusive site. 

The huge complex of the Domus Aurea was designed for the emperor’s enjoyment in his free time. There he could stroll and feast with guests whilst enjoying beautiful works of art. The Golden House itself is a wonder in terms of architectural elegance and was filled with prized paintings and sculptures, many of which were collected or confiscated by the emperor in various provinces of the Roman empire. Probably among these were the original bronze of the Dying Gaul and the Galatian Suicide, taken from the Acropolis of Pergamon, and the famous statue of the Laocoon, which was found during the Renaissance and today can be found in the Octagonal courtyard of the Vatican Museums. If you want to learn more about this magnificent statue and see it for yourself, check out our  Immersive Vatican Museums tour.

Nero undertook the creation of The Domus Aurea after the terrible fire of July 64 AD, which blazed for nine days and destroyed as many as 10 of the 14 districts into which the city was divided. The damage was extensive, and many perished. According to legend, Nero enjoyed the spectacle of Rome in flames, which reminded him of the destruction of Troy. However nothing could be further from the truth - his own Domus Transitoria was badly damaged and historical sources tell us that the emperor returned quickly from Anzio to Rome - about 70 km away - to coordinate relief efforts. Nevertheless, his enemies spread the word that Nero himself had started the fire in the Circus Maximus and from there it was simply unstoppable. Most likely to create a scapegoat for himself, Nero blamed the Christians and instigated one of the most famous and bloody persecutions in history. Among the murdered Christians, the apostle Peter was crucified; centuries later, the site of his burial would become St. Peter’s Basilica. 

Incredible Architecture and Jaw-Dropping Frescoes

Nero entrusted the project of his Golden House to his renowned architects, Severus and Celer. The works were completed at an incredible speed, with many of the contructions being completed in just 4 years. The remarkable life of Nero came to an end in 68 AD, when Nero committed suicide before the army and the Senate could find him to sentence him to death for killing his mother, Agrippina, and his wife. Despite Nero’s immensely controversial life, he was proud of the achievement of the Domus: the ancient historian Suetonius cited him as saying: "Good, now I can at last begin to live like a human being. He died shortly after, aged just 31.

Suetonius described the rooms as follows: parts of the house were overlaid with gold and studded with precious stones and mother of pearl. All the dining rooms had ceilings of fretted ivory, the panels of which could slide back and let a rain of flowers, or of perfume from hidden sprinklers, fall on his guests. The main dining room was circular, and its roof revolved slowly, day and night, in time with the sky. Seawater, or sulfur water, was always on tap in the baths.

Suetonius coined the name of the Domus Aurea (Golden House) because "everything was covered with gold and covered with precious stones and shells." The most impressive spaces of the Domus Aurea are unquestionably the various rooms and courtyards, many of which have been completely restored and are part of our unique tour. 

Wander through the incredible halls of Nero's pleasure palace

Our Domus Aurea tour starts in what was a huge porch with columns; we then move on to a grotto containing a large bath with a small waterfall - even though the space is covered, it is anything but dark. Light enters from the side windows of the porch: accentuated in the changing reflections of the water, it bounces off alabaster walls and ceilings and creates a wondrous light, much like a spotlight on a river. Here we're close to the original pentagonal courtyard, which is remarkable in terms of size and structure, and just a stone’s throw from the lush gardens. From here the tour continues to the east wing of the Golden House, where the architects Severus and Celer reached the pinnacle of their trade in the Octagonal Room, the architectural heart of the complex. We'll pause for a moment before admiring the two adjacent rooms: the Room of Achilles and Skyros and that of Hector and Andromache, absolute treasure-troves of brilliantly preserved frescoes.

Next, we proceed to admire the most exclusive of all the spaces: the Octagonal Hall itself, where the magnificence of Nero’s palace never fails to leave us stunned. Our gaze is automatically drawn to the ceiling which is perforated by the form of an open eye that would have revealed an infinite expanse of space filled with stars. From this romantic and ingenious viewpoint, Nero’s fortunate guests would lie on couches and feast whilst admiring the cosmos and the works of art in the centre of the room. This incredibly ambitious structure was a unique innovation in Roman architecture, and it is no coincidence that it became a model to be emulated - such as in the majestic Pantheon.

Read more on our blog:  Nero's House of Gold and his eccentric life

Buried, Forgotten and Rediscovered: The Domus Aurea after Nero

After the death of Nero, a time of political instability followed. The emperor Vespasian firmly took hold of the reins of empire, and headed in a new direction with his government. The gardens of the Domus Aurea, disliked by the people and the senators as a symbol of Nero’s clear abuses of power and waste of money, were returned to the Romans. In just ten years the site of the original artificial lake of the Domus was transformed into a huge amphitheatre, inaugurated by Vespasian's son and new emperor Titus in the year 80 AD to host gladiator battles, which by then were very popular throughout the empire. The giant statue of Nero, created in the image of the Sun God, was moved near the entrance of the amphitheatre using 24 elephants! It was from this colossal likeness that the adjacent amphitheatre took its name - the Colosseum.

Over the coming decades the emperor Trajan successfully inflicted lasting damage to the posthumous memory of Nero, damning his name and ordering the destruction of any artifact bearing his name or image. The Domus Aurea was buried by the majestic Baths of Trajan; the Domus Aurea, a kingdom of light, was scattered and cast into the shadows where it became a kingdom of darkness.

It was only in the early 1500s that interest in the Domus was reawakened, thanks to the irrepressible passion for ancient texts and remnants that animated the culture of the Renaissance. Renaissance artists often braved dangerous conditions and ventured on nocturnal expeditions into these damp tunnels, looking for evidence of Rome's past. The most noble among these expeditioners was the Umbrian painter Pinturicchio, handsomely rewarded by the Borgia pope Alexander VI for decorating his apartments in the Vatican palace. Torch in hand, he ventured into the Domus' caves accompanied by Raphael and his assistants, where they studied and sketched the strange tangled forms and bizarre figures they saw in its frescoes. Inspired by these underground journeys, he reproduced what he saw in many of the Renaissance palaces he was hired to decorate. The artists' signatures are still engraved on the ancient ruins, and our archaeologist will help you to locate them and appreciate their meaning.

Amazing 3-D Animations on our Domus Aurea Tour

What we offer on this guided tour is a real Roman journey to discover the city's ancient splendour - a voyage into both the palace's physical remains and virtual recreations of what has been lost, bridging the gap between modern times and the days of Nero. Thanks to today’s technology, we can superimpose a virtual reality of the past onto the incredible ruins of the Domus Aurea - thick walls traversed by light flooding in from arcades, and beautiful fountains tinkling merrily in porches beyond. Even the palace's fragmentary frescoes are recreated in their entirety, and in their splendidly vivid colours we can admire the famous "grotesque" style that captivated the Renaissance artists who ventured into its dark tunnels, at first with no idea of where they were. Thanks to these virtual recreations, today we can appreciate Nero's love of art and the striking works housed within his Domus Aurea as never before - indeed, as only the emperor Nero himself and a few select guests enjoyed it in the past. For Nero’s palace was designed for the pleasure of only one man: himself. Once a palace of light before it was cast into centuries of darkness, today it is again illuminated, throwing its rays onto porches and windows, onto marbles and precious gems that endlessly fragment and disperse their light. You will see what Nero saw as you stroll unnoticed through his great palace. As you do you can almost feel a foreboding presence, threatening and lost in distant steps that echo down the centuries.

After your two hour tour you will have a new knowledge of Ancient Rome, taking home not only beautiful photos but also great memories of a truly unique experience.

Tour Reviews

5.0 (95 reviews)

Our guide Valentina was exceptional, we were met right on time at the meeting point and provided with all of the information we needed. Her narrative was fascinating and informative. I would highly recommend this tour.

Anne - Oct 11, 2023

My third time visiting Rome and finally booked this tour, in my opinion the most interesting in Rome. The tour takes place underground, our guide was incredibly knowledgeable, I loved the frescos and multimedia experience. Highly recommended!

Suzanne - Sep 23, 2023

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• Rome Attractions
• Domus Aurea Guided Tour

Archeological Site

Nero's Domus Aurea, Guided Tour in English

An extraordinary experience to explore the sumptuous home built at the behest of Emperor Nero a short way from the Colosseum ! This special guided tour is the only way to visit what remains of the Domus Aurea and learn about its history led by an official guide.

about 75 minutes

The ticket includes booking to skip the line at the entrance. 

The route is partially wheelchair accessible. Not suggested for visitors with motor disabilities.

Weekend. Multiple tour start times are available at the visitor's choice.

We recommend wearing comfortable shoes and windbreakers. Underground path with high humidity and rough terrain.

Description of your booking

This booking lets you tour Domus Aurea an official in-house guide. The tour includes a guided tour in English on foot where the majestic residence of the emperor Nero had been built. 
 Because it is a guided tour for up to 46 people, the archaeological site of the Domus Aurea can only be accessed by the public by booking this guided tour. 
 Once the mandatory protective helmet is on, visitors enter the imperial residence to see the frescoed rooms which recent restoration have brought back to light. Because this archaeological area is still under restoration, the tour is aided by the use of 3D viewers. 
 Visitors can sit and watch a film for about 20 minutes that recreates the appearance of how the residence looked at the peak of its glory. The viewers faithfully recreate the majesty of the Roman emperor's palace in ancient times.

What is included

- One admission to the Domus Aurea
 - Guided tour 
 - Helmet
 - 3D viewer for multimedia visits (about 20 minutes) - Paper digital guide of the archaelogical site in English and map

What is not included

- Admission to other sites

The tour's start time and other useful information which will be printed on the confirmation voucher. As there is high demand and limited ticket availability, the time and date of this reservation may be changed. Our staff will contact you if that should happen to suggest alternatives. We will use the contact details you provided when you booked. PLEASE NOTE!!! There are very limited places for this tour. Sending an order and receiving a copy of your order by email is not a BOOKING CONFIRMATION; it is just a booking request. The booking will be confirmed only when you receive the VOUCHER. If the time and date are not available, we will contact you promptly to suggest alternatives or refund your payment if already made.

Price for this package includes entrance ticket with guided tour and a digital guide in pdf format of the archaelogical site with map.

European Citizens 18-24 years old. Price for this package includes entrance ticket with guided tour and a digital guide in pdf format of the archaelogical site with map.

Children 0-17 years old. Price for this package includes entrance ticket (0.00 euros), guided tour and a digital guide in pdf format of the archaelogical site with map.

Temporary exhibition extra charges are added automatically to the on line ticket price. Italy Travels is not responsible for any partial closure of rooms, itinerary changes, cancellations or delays in entry due to force meajure, adverse weather, personnel strikes, or decisions made by the management of the museum or the Superintendency. OFFICIAL TARIFFS OF THE TOUR TICKET Adult - 23,00 euros (from Monday to Thursday 18,00 euros) Reduced - 19,00 euros (from Monday to Thursday 14,00 euros) Under 5 years old: 0,00 euros

Cancellation policy

Entry tickets to the Domus Aurea, once booked,  may not be changed in any way or canceled . Visitors who come after the time printed on the voucher or are no-shows will not have access to the site and will receive no refund, even partial. Once booked, these tickets cannot be changed. We, therefore, suggest you pay very close attention during the online booking process when choosing the date, time, and type of tickets.

When you can visit Nero's Domus Aurea

Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Multiple tour start times are available at the visitor's choice. - 10:00 AM - 11:45 AM - 03:45 PM

Where is located the Nero's Domus Aurea

Meeting point with the guide:  Viale della Domus Aurea, 20 minutes before the tour starting time written on your voucher.

Useful info

The interior is particularly damp. All visitors will be provided with a special helmet to comply with safety regulations. We recommend wearing comfortable shoes and windbreakers. The route is partially wheelchair accessible. For security reasons, this site may be closed even without notice, on the recommendation of the Superintendent. In this case the price paid will be refunded and no further compensation can be requested for the cancellation of the tour even if communicated on the day of the visit.

Nero's Domus Aurea in Rome

The vestibule of the house was so big it contained a colossal statue 120 feet high, the image of Nero; and it was so extensive that it had three colonnades a mile long. There was a lake too, in fact, a sea, surrounded with buildings as big as cities. Behind it were villas with fields, vineyards and pastures, woods filled with all kinds of wild and domestic animals. In the rest of the house everything was coated with gold and adorned with gems and shells. The dining-rooms had fretted ceilings made of ivory, with panels that turned and shed flowers and perfumes on those below. The main banquet hall was circular and constantly revolved day and night, like the heavens. The baths were supplied with both sea water and sulfurous spa water. When Nero inaugurated the house at the end of the works, he showed himself satisfied, and said 'Finally I begin to live in a house worthy of a man.'" (Suetonius)

The history of the Domus Aurea

In the early years of his reign, Nerone had built the "Domus Transitional" designed to connect its possessions. During the terrible fire of 64 A.D. the palace burned completely and therefore it was necessary to build a new imperial residence, the Domus Aurea. The name comes from the Latin, "house of gold". It took this name because of the extensive gold claddings and the ceiling embellished with semi-precious stones and ivory plates requested by the emperator. The villa extended for about 250 hectares, most of the area was occupied by gardens with pavilions destined to parties. At the center of the gardens which included forests and entire vines, there was a pond in part artificial, in which then arose the Colosseum.

Nerone also commissioned a great big bronze statue of about thirty meters reproducing himself, dressed with the old dress of the Roman sun god, Apollo. The statue was placed at the main entrance of the building, overlooking the Palatine Hill. The statue had been adapted over the years with the heads of the various successors of Nerone, before Adriano decided to demolish it, to build the Flavian Amphitheatre, commonly called Colosseum. The “Domus Aurea” was essentially a villa for the holidays with approximately three hundred rooms and none of them used as sleeping rooms. The halls were finely coated in fine polychrome marble or richly frescoed. On each floor there were pools and in the hallways fountains.. The fine mosaics were mainly employed for covering floors, but then Nerone decided to decorate mosaic ceilings of some rooms anticipating one of the main issues of Christian art. Today visitors can admire only few fragments of these old mosaics. It seems that the architects Severus and Celer, designers of the Domus, had created an innovative and ingenious mechanism to ensure the ceiling movement and rotation like the stars in to the sky. After the Nerone’s death, the palace was stripped of its precious coverings. On the plot of the domus Aurea were built the Baths of Titus, the Temple of Venus in Rome and the Coliseum. In forty years, the Domus Aurea was totally buried under these new constructions. The burial helped the paintings to survive as sand worked as the volcanic ash of Pompeii, protecting them from moisture. Towards the end of the XVth century, a young Roman accidentally fell into a cave. The cave was covered with painted figures. Soon the word spread and the young Roman artists lowered themselves down inside the cave to admire the beautiful ancient frescoes. Today the frescoes are faded, but were studied during the Renaissance artists such as Michelangelo and Raphael. Raphael even took inspiration from the frescoes of the Domus Aurea for the making of the Vatican Loggia. Thanks to the discovery of these paintings, the artistic term "grotesque" was created

The Domus Aurea was the subject of a long restoration, the reopening was scheduled for January 2007, but the great monument continued to suffer from the presence of the traffic of the Capital and to the roots of the trees that infiltrated into the ground, creating further instability. For these reasons the restoration is gone very slowly. On the 30 of March ,2010 collapsed the domus’ entrance vault. This prolonged the long period of closure to the public of the archaeological site, until the year 2015.

Nero's Domus Aurea Tour

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Domus Aurea Tour, The Golden House of Nero

• All Fees and Taxes
• Exclusive access to the Domus Aurea
• Expert, English-speaking archaeologist guide
• Tickets and reservation fees
• Virtual Reality Experience
• Entry/Admission - Domus Aurea
• Transportation to and from the meeting and end point
• Gratuities (optional)
• Oppio Caffè, Via delle Terme di Tito, 72, 00184 Roma RM, Italy Your guide will be on the corner of Via Nicola Salvi and Via delle Terme di Tito, in front of Oppio Caffe. If you are using GPS or GoogleMaps, the exact address is Via delle Terme di Tito 72. Your guide will have a Through Eternity sign or flag.
• Via della Domus Aurea, 00184 Roma RM, Italy
• Not wheelchair accessible
• Near public transportation
• Confirmation will be received at time of booking
• Most travelers can participate
• As this is a walking tour with steps, staircases and uneven surfaces, comfortable shoes and a bottle of water are strongly recommended.
• Please advise during the booking process if any travelers have mobility concerns so that we can best accommodate you.
• This is an inside archaeological site and even in the summer it can be cold, so you are advised to wear suitable clothing for this tour.
• The full names of all participants joining the tour are required in order to purchase tickets. Please provide the full names of all participants and please ensure to bring a government issued photo ID with you on the day of the tour. Should you not provide the names of the participants joining the tour as written on your governement issued photo-ID, you will not be able to enter the site.
• This tour/activity will have a maximum of 22 travelers
• All sales are final and incur 100% cancellation penalties.
• Domus Aurea

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Domus Aurea

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DOMUS AUREA: All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go (with Photos)

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Domus Aurea: Nero's Golden House Guided Tour

Go into the Domus Aurea , or Golden House, created totally for pleasure by Emperor Nero, a man well-known for jaw-dropping acts of indulgence.

Join an expert guide to discover the Domus Aurea, or the Golden House, designed purely for the pleasure of Emperor Nero, and find out about the history of the site and its remaining riches on a walking tour.

After meeting the guide at the meeting point and exchanging your voucher for your entrance tickets, you can start discovering the Domus Aurea which must have been one of the most aesthetically breathtaking buildings ever constructed.

It is home to several decorative artworks such as mosaics, marble furnishings, and even a rotating dining room. You can listen to the tales about the richness in a house where everything was coated with gold and adorned with gems, shells, and ivory. As you walk, you can also learn about the extravagance of Nero during the construction of the Golden House, which included a 120-foot colossal statue of Nero in the vestibule.

Alongside the architecture, you can visit the peaceful lake, fields, vineyards, pastures, and woods filled with all kinds of wild and domestic animals, as well. At the end of the tour, you’ll understand why Nero was so charmed with the house that he declared “Finally, I begin to live in a house worthy of a man.”

• Visit Nero’s Golden House, or the Domus Aurea, and see the marvels on site,
• Get the most out of your experience on a guided walking tour,
• Learn about the site’s luxurious history and the excavations currently taking place there,
• See the remains of the spectacular adornments including intricate frescos and marble walls,
• Find out about the site’s underground lakes, spa baths, and rotating dining room.

Free cancellation (up to 24 hours)

We shall never know for certain whether Nero caused the fire that devastated Rome in ad 64 or simply profited from it to seize 160ha (400 acres) of the gutted city to build himself the most luxurious residence ever seen in Rome.

All we can say is that the legend about Nero fiddling while Rome burned is apocryphal, and that no other European monarch has ever carved himself out a larger slice of his capital for his private use. Apart from the facade covered in solid gold, the Emperor’s pleasure palace had such refinements as baths with hot and cold running water either sea or fresh or fed from sulphur springs, hidden perfume sprays piped into the reception rooms, and a mechanical device for showering flower petals upon his banquet guests.

The gloomy chambers of the ruins of Nero’s palace are mostly underground today. Trajan built his public baths on top of the ruined Golden House when it too was destroyed by fire in ad 104.

Thirteen centuries later some of the rooms in the palace were rediscovered and the painted decorations caused an artistic sensation – it was the first time in over a thousand years that anyone had cast their eyes on the style that later became known as ‘Pompeian’ . Raphael used the decorations as his model in the Vatican Loggie without knowing he had been copying wall paintings from Nero’s Palace.

As you walk through the cavernous cryptoporticus and through the octagonal hall a powerful pocket lamp will be invaluable in identifying the now much faded paintings. The famous Greek sculpture of Laocoon now in the Vatican museums was discovered here in pieces in 1506. It most likely formed part of Nero’s splendid art collection.

from €18.00 EUR Closest Date: May 20 Validity:  24-hour  Seller: Parco archeologico del Colosseo

from €1200.00 EUR Duration:  3.5 Hours  Organized by: Enjoy Rome

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Domus aurea the golden house.

The Domus Aurea was once the huge and ostentatious palace of Emperor Nero. The only way to get a glimpse of this ancient complex for yourself is to book onto a guided tour.

Note: Domus Aurea is closed until 1 March 2024.

The positives:

It’s never too crowded (the number of tickets is limited). The tour is really high-tech throughout (hello video projections and VR glasses), so you can imagine what the imperial palace would have looked like in all its pomp and splendour all those centuries ago.

The negatives:

The lighting could be better at times – it’s hard to take a decent photo. During the summer, you have to book your tickets well in advance. There’s no free time to explore the complex on your own after the guided tour.

Wear something with long sleeves or take layers to wrap up in – it can get a bit cold down in the underground passages. Make sure you buy your ticket in advance!

Last Modified: 12.03.2024 | Céline & Susi

Domus Aurea Tickets

Guided tour.

Admission, Guided Tour in EN/IT, Duration: 1,5 hour

Guided Tour + VR

Admission, Guided Tour in EN/IT, Duration: 1,5 hour + VR experience

Alternative from

Catacombs of Rome

The details at a glance

Opening hours.

Monday to Sunday: 9.45 a.m. – 4.45 p.m. Only with a Guided Tour

EUR 19 for adults EUR 14 for young people aged 6 – 12 years EUR 1 for kids under the age of 6 years

incl. EUR 1 Reservation fee on the official website

Information

Entrance from Via della Domus Aurea and exit from Via di Serapide.

Bring something with long sleeves – it can be chilly in the underground passages!

Via della Domus Aurea, 1 00184 Roma

Guided Tours

Is mandatory Duration: 1 hour 15 minutes

Domus Aurea Photo Gallery

What is there to see.

What comes to mind when you hear “Domus Aurea” or “Golden House”? I’m guessing you imagine a house adorned with glittering gold?

Well, it’s actually just the name given to the huge palace of Emperor Nero. Calling it an imperial palace just doesn’t do justice to the sheer size of the complex. In fact, it once covered the whole area between Palatine Hill and Esquiline Hill (Oppian Hill). It even had its own artificial lake. All that’s left of it now, though, is an underground excavation site. The remnants of windowless corridors and rooms that have been plunged almost fully into darkness and don’t have any of their original marble opulence left. Luckily, what does remain of the painted walls, mouldings and mosaics is enough to give you an idea of how elegant and palatial the Domus Aurea once was.

Not many people have heard of the Domus Aurea. Even though, it played an important part in the history of Rome’s top tourist attraction – the incredible Colosseum. Nero died long before the Colosseum was built. But it was built on the site of the lake in the grounds of the Domus Aurea after it was filled in.

Something else not many people realise is that Rome’s famous landmark was originally called the Flavian Amphitheatre. It only became known as the Colosseum thanks to the gigantic bronze Colossus of Nero at the entrance to the Domus Aurea. The emperor could never have imagined his legacy in his wildest dreams when he was still alive…

People seem to think that you have to head for Palatine Hill if you want to visit the Golden House. In actual fact, it’s Oppian Hill to the east of the Colosseum you need. You have to join a guided tour, and you have to wear a helmet.

When you arrive at the entrance to the Domus Aurea, you might think you’ve come to the wrong place. The walls don’t look like anything special at all. But just take two or three steps down and you’ll be hit with the grandeur of Ancient Rome. High ceilings, long corridors and painted walls. Sure, it’s all a bit dark, but you can still make out the patterns and colours on the walls.

The tour starts with a video projected onto a wall. This provides a general introduction to Emperor Nero, the Great Fire of Rome and the history and architecture of the building itself. A bit later on, virtual reality glasses will allow you to see through the walls and explore the palace grounds. Wow! Look at all the bright colours, the gold and the size of the complex. You can easily lose track of where you are and what time it is.

Emperor Nero may have been around thousands of years ago, but he still had flowing water, bathrooms and dining rooms in his palace. You can actually still see one of his banquet halls – the Octagonal Hall. It originally had a dome over it to let sunlight flood into the room, but you can just see a hole in the ceiling now. Without a tour guide, it would probably be very easy to get lost in the many, many passages. How did Nero manage to find his way around here? And how long did it take him to get from one room to the next?

You can still see scaffolding – that’s being used for the ongoing excavation work. Did you know that ‘ Laocoön and His Sons’was discovered when digging for a vineyard on Oppian Hill was underway in the 16th century? The sculpture is currently on display at the Vatican Museums .

Domus Aurea A bit of history

In the summer of the year 64 A.D., the Great Fire of Rome broke out near Circus Maximus and took seven days to extinguish. Emperor Nero was blamed for starting the fire (even though we now know that he wasn’t even in Rome at the time). How come? Because he built his imperial palace – the Domus Aurea or Golden House – on the land that had been cleared by the fire.

The words “house” and “palace” really don’t do any justice to the sheer size of the complex, which spanned around 80 hectares in total. That’s the same as 115 football pitches! The Domus Aurea complex had its own vineyards, villas, fields, forests, avenues, statues, balconies, steps, bronze balustrades, pools and baths. And, of course, an artificial lake!

The Golden House was built with huge brick walls covered with gold leaf and opulent marble. Mouldings studded with colourful stones, gemstones and seashells added decoration to the ceilings.

We don’t often know the names of the architects from the days of Ancient Rome, but in this case we do know that Celere and Severo designed at least two of the main dining rooms under Nero’s supervision. Those dining rooms had ceilings with ivory plates that could be moved so that perfume and rose petals could be dropped down onto guests.

The Domus Aurea was built within a short space of time and used by the emperor for an even shorter space of time before being destroyed. Nero’s delusions of grandeur ended when he committed suicide in 68 A.D., after all.

Just 40 short years later, the Domus Aurea had been buried completely under new buildings. Many of the frescos on the wall were destroyed by rubble and damp soil. And yet buried sand saved the “grotesques” (decorations on the wall in the form of delicate, plant-like figures as well as people, animals and hybrid creatures) by protecting them against destructive moisture – much like the volcanic ash in Pompeii.

It was completely by chance that the rooms and corridors were discovered during the 15th century, when someone fell through a cleft in the hillside. The whole complex was buried way underground at this point. But artists like Raphael, Ghirlandaio and Giulio Romano loved these underground passages and would use torches to light up the walls and draw inspiration from the artwork on them. Basically, this was the birth of the grotesque painting of the Renaissance. This genre became even more popular in the 16th century, shedding new light on the themes at the heart of the wall decorations from Ancient Rome.

The site was left alone for a few centuries after that. It wasn’t until the frescos were discovered in Pompeii (at the end of the 18th century) that the academic interest in the grotesques was reignited. The excavation work on the Domus Aurea was resumed at this point.

Around 50 rooms were dug up in the first half of the 19th century. The Oppian Hill Park – home to the ruins of the Baths of Trajan and its gardens – was created at the start of the 20th century, but the structures underneath it were left alone.

Excavation work on the Domus Aurea was stopped until 1939 and 1954, respectively. In 1969, archaeologists in Rome explored the upper floor and made the vault watertight. The Golden House was opened to the public in the 21st century, and the restoration work is still ongoing.

Official website of Domus Aurea (EN): parcocolosseo.it Text and image rights: © ​Céline Mülich, 2020 – 2024 With the support of Susanne Vukan.

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My 7 Favorite Walking Tours In Rome And Why They’re Great For Solo Travelers

A nyone who has read Eat Pray Love will understand the mystique of Rome. There’s the appeal of the food, the history, the “dolce vita” lifestyle, and of course, the beauty of the people and the country. Like the author of the book, I ventured to Italy on my own but to a yoga retreat instead of an Italian language immersion. Not far from Rome in the tiny medieval town of Pitigliano, I enjoyed the camaraderie of a small group of like-minded “friends,” all eager to explore Tuscany’s small towns and venture to the thermal waters of Terme di Montecatini to slather in mud as part of the wellness experience.

This wonderful week left me refreshed and ready to travel sans a group. Spending a few days in Rome before I flew home was what I had my heart set on. I booked a room at the beautiful and centrally located Hotel Locarno and set out on my adventure. To make the most of my time and profit from the knowledge of local experts, I signed up for a range of walking tours that provided a safe, educational, and welcoming experience for solo travelers like me.

Here are my seven favorite walking tours that I took in Rome:

Walks Of Italy

1. welcome to rome twilight city & gelato tasting .

I’m a strong believer in getting the lay of the land before setting off on your own. You’ll see the “footprint” of a place, glean knowledge about its history, and profit from the experience of locals who can share their insights and answer questions. Then, you’re free to efficiently explore in more depth those places that have piqued your curiosity. This type of tour also builds confidence, especially if you’re not used to traveling by yourself. You’ll visit well-known sites like Piazza del Popolo, Piazza Navona, the Spanish Steps, the Roman Forum, and the Colosseum — all giving you good reason to return for a deeper dive on your own, at your own speed.

The tour that I took with Walks of Italy was my first introduction to Rome as a solo traveler. I picked the “Welcome to Rome: Twilight City Stroll & Gelato Tasting,” as the 6:30 p.m. start best fit with my hotel check-in time and I knew that the tour would show me some good eats as well as great sites.

There’s a magic to experiencing an ancient city like Rome in the dusk hours when there are fewer cars and fewer people in the streets. You can almost imagine what it was like during Nero’s days or during the building of the Colosseum and the Roman Forum. When darkness falls and lights come on, and fountains and buildings are illuminated with a romantic glow, you can truly bond with the city. The Trevi Fountain was enchanting at this hour, as was the Pantheon, while breaks for pizza and ice cream added to the almost spiritual feeling.

2. Pristine Sistine

No trip to Rome is complete without a visit to the Vatican, an independent state within the city. But as everyone knows, the crowds there can be overwhelming. Lines queue up for hours to enter the Vatican Museum and view sacred rooms and Leonardo da Vinci’s Sistine Chapel. If you arrive pretty much any time during the day, no matter what the weather, you’ll find that you need a huge dose of patience.

My suggestion to avoid this is to take a very-early private tour to unlock the doors. The number of entrants is limited and you’ll find you have the Sistine Chapel largely to yourself, as remarkable as that sounds. 

Led by Walks of Italy , I met my guide at an entrance marked ingresso gruppi at 7:15 a.m. for a “Pristine Sistine” small group tour. I was able to experience the Vatican in near silence before most people were even awake. A stiff espresso or two will motivate you to rise at the early hour required for this tour. But, even I, a committed night owl, found that the reward was worth it. I appreciated the one-on-one attention, the unhurried explanations of what was inside, and the quiet while in the chapel. After climbing the 551 stairs to the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica, I happily walked past the long lines that had formed during my time indoors. 

Pro Tip: There is an elevator to the rooftop of St. Peter’s Basilica that will save you 330 steps. However, you will still need to climb the rest to the top. To avoid crowds here as well, plan a separate visit and arrive at the dome before 8 a.m. 

3. VIP Colosseum Underground Tour 

The Colosseum is a must-visit when in Rome. And now that the lower level is open for tourists, there’s even more of a demand to spend time at this well-preserved Roman amphitheater.

Again, I chose a small group, early-hour tour where I had personalized attention and no crowding. All of my questions — I had many as a travel writer — were answered without hesitation. With Walks of Italy’s skip-the-lines “VIP Colosseum Underground Tour,” I was able to roam freely, photograph without pushing people out of my way, and quietly absorb the incredible feat of construction that is the Colosseum. Starting at 8 a.m., the tour met outside the Colosseum and then continued to the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill. If you’re on a tight schedule, there’s a solo Colosseum-focused tour that will get you in and out with time to make an afternoon or evening flight.

Eating Europe

4. twilight trastevere timeless traditions.

Everyone knows that Italian cuisine is fabulous. But do you really understand the nuances of its preparation? Or the history behind some of the dishes? And have you met the people who put their heart and soul into the cooking? To truly appreciate this, I scheduled a “Twilight Trastevere Timeless Traditions” walking tour with Eating Europe . 

Trastevere, a medieval neighborhood across the Tiber River, has a history as a Jewish enclave and offers a blend of tradition and experimentation. This tour offered peeks into local bar favorites, street foods, and a variety of stops for snacks and bigger bites. We stuffed ourselves with prosciutto and melon, biscotti dipped in chocolate, porchetta, and suppli (traditional rice croquettes filled with mozzarella) before indulging in a pasta amatriciana and cacio e pepe dinner at a cozy trattoria. Beverages included wine (of course) at an extensive tasting in a cellar, birra, and limoncello, with a gelato stop to end. I was thankful that we were walking!

After this delicious introduction to Trastevere, I took the advice of my guide and confidently returned the next day to explore further on my own. In the Jewish Ghetto (also known as the Ghetto of Rome), I delved into the area’s culinary heritage, feasting on carciofi alla giudia at the small trattoria Nonna Betta , recommended by Anthony Bourdain in No Reservations . I also toured the Great Synagogue and wandered through the Sant’Angelo (rione of Rome) where I discovered intriguing shops selling religious and secular knickknacks. 

Archeological Tours

5. domus aurea .

I was so enamored with the magnitude of history surrounding me that I signed up for (and highly recommend) two in-progress excavations. The Domus Aurea exploration required me to wear a hard hat and took me to an active archeological dig at the site where a huge domed residence once stood across from the Colosseum. Called the “Golden House,” Domus Aurea was built by Nero to revitalize Rome after the fire of 64 A.D. 

Pro Tip: Advance reservations (including the Raphael art exhibit) are essential as the tours are only available on weekends.

6. Le Domus Romane Di Palazzo Valentini 

The fascinating story of Le Domus Romane di Palazzo Valentini came to light because of Rome’s strict regulations regarding excavation and preservation. Whenever construction is contemplated, careful consideration of the location’s potential historical significance must be taken. And, indeed, that was the case here. While cleaning up an area designated for present-day use, the remains of ancient homes were discovered beneath Palazzo Valentini; a self-guided tour is now offered. Opposite Trajan’s Column, this underground site sheds light on the lives of several generations of inhabitants dating from the days of Emperor Hadrian.

Pro Tip: If you’re claustrophobic, the archeological tours may not be for you. Both involve being underground amid crumbling ruins and semi-darkness. Also, Domus Aurea is a bit tricky to find, so allow extra time if you go.

7. Borghese Gallery 

A look at some of the works from the country’s famous artists and sculptors is di rigore when visiting Rome. I opted for a self-guided tour of the famous Borghese Gallery where I had the opportunity to admire Bernini and Canova sculptures as well as paintings by Caravaggio and Raphael. As I was short on time and this was my last night in Rome, I reserved an evening entrance when the crowds were less intense, with a chance to also stroll through the villa gardens. Guided tours are available for those who prefer a more structured visit.

When you choose to travel solo, it helps to be somewhere where it’s considered “normal.” In Rome, I felt comfortable; comfortable enough that I could ask directions, dine by myself, and join small group tours without feeling lost in the crowd. It didn’t hurt that the shopping, dining, and overall magic of this historic city was enticing around every turn, nor that my efforts to speak Italian were appreciated.

Related Reading:

• 5 Tips For Visiting Rome’s Iconic Trevi Fountain
• Why This Unique Tour In Rome Was My Favorite Way To Explore The City
• 7 Best Places To Indulge In Dolce Far Niente While Visiting Rome

This article originally appeared on TravelAwaits