amtrak california zephyr travel tips

Train Travel Guide

The Ultimate California Zephyr Guide

by TTG | Feb 26, 2022 | Amtrak , California Zephyr , Overnight Trains | 0 comments

Many say the Califronia Zephyr is North America’s most scenic train.

On its two night and three day journey the Zephyr passes through mountain ranges and deserts. It crosses the Mississippi, snakes alongside the Colorado through the Rockies and traverses the Sierra Nevada mountain ranges in California.

Such accolades have the California Zephyr in great company with other North American train journeys. High on the list would be Amtrak’s Empire Builder , Via Rail’s Canadian and Jasper to Prince Rupert trains and of course the luxurious Rocky Mountaineer .  

California Zephyr at a Glance

• The California Zephyr is an overnight Amtrak train from Chicago to San Francisco
• The journey takes approximately 52 hours , or two nights and three days
• The train crosses California, Nevada, Utah, Colorado, Nebraska, Iowa and Illinois
• Key city stops are Chicago, Omaha, Denver, Salt Lake City, Reno, Sacramento and San Francisco
• The train is scheduled to operate daily in each direction and travels overnight
• Coach and sleeper accommodations are available
• Prices on this train vary according to demand
• A traditional dining car is available for sleeper passengers, with three meals a day included
• A sightseer lounge car is available as a shared space to meet fellow passengers, read a book or watch the world go by
• A cafe is available in the sightseer lounge for all passengers to purchase food and drinks
• Checked baggage is available at some, but not all stations
• There is baggage storage onboard
• There is no WiFi on this train
• The train travels through remote areas where phone reception isn’t available

California Zephyr Route Highlights

A trip on the Zephyr covers 2400 miles or 3900km, about twice the distance from Florida to New York City.

With its breathtaking year round scenery you can be sure the 52-hour, two night and three day end-to-end adventure between San Francisco and Chicago is a journey you won’t regret taking. 

It’s an impressive journey that passes through California, Nevada, Utah, Colorado, Nebraska, Iowa, and Illinois. Along the way there are some 33 scheduled stops, including Omaha, Denver, Winter Park, Salt Lake City, Reno and Sacremento , the Californian capital.  

This train however, is best known for its journey through the Rocky Mountains on day two.

Rocky Mountains on Day two

Most of the Zephyr’s well-deserved reputation comes from the time traversing the rails in Colorado between Denver and Grand Junction on day two. This section is always during daylight hours, regardless of which direction you travel.

Westbound : When heading west, the train climbs into the Rocky Mountains after leaving Denver. The most scenic views will be to the left hand side in the direction of travel. Following the climb is the Moffat tunnel, where the Zephyr crosses the Continental Divide through the 6.2 mile (10km) tunnel that was opened in 1927. From here, it’s time to settle in near a window. For the rest of the day natures best remains on display as the Zephyr follows the Colorado River through to Grand Junction.

Eastbound: On the eastbound journey the day happens in reverse. Here, the main scenery starts just after Grand Junction in the morning and the most scenic views will be to the right in the direction of travel. The train follows the Colorado River for the day, descending into Denver from the mountains in the evening. The descent into Denver makes for a great finale to an epic day of sightseeing, and is ideally timed for a hotel check-in if you choose to break the trip here.

Other Highlights

While the mountain scenery is a clear winner there’s other point of interest to keep an eye out for.

Along the way the Zephyr crosses the Mississippi River at Burlington on the state border of Illinois and Iowa, traverses through through Ruby Canyon in Colorado and passes by Utah’s impressive Book Cliffs! Also not to be missed is California’s Sierra Nevada Mountain Range.

In short, with this variety of scenery you’ll never be without an amazing view out the window.

Which direction should I travel on the California Zephyr?

Seasoned rail travelers recommend this trip in either direction. That said, there is a slight preference for the westbound trip.

This is because during the deep winter months on the eastbound trip the descent from the Rocky Mountains into Denver often occurs after sunset. The train is scheduled to arrive into Denver at 6:30pm. By most accounts though, even when this happens the approaching city lights on the descent are impressive too. 

Which direction for stopovers?

If you are looking to take a journey on the Zephyr with stopovers along the way, the direction matters. After all, you don’t want to be stepping off the train at 3am!

Westbound: this service is well timed for breaking the trip at stops in Illinois, Iowa, Colorado and California. It’s not well placed for stops in Nebraska and parts of Nevada, where it passes through in the early hours of the morning.  

Eastbound: this service is ideal for stop-overs at destinations in California, Nevada, Colorado and Iowa . It’s not well timed for stops at Utah.

See also: California Zephyr Schedule See Also: California Zephyr Stopovers

California Zephyr Train 5 – Westbound (departs Chicago)

Westbound – day one.

The westbound Zephyr leaves daily from Chicago’s downtown Union Station at 2pm.

The Chicago Union Station building is best summed up on the stations website: a grand building worthy of the city’s status as a national railroad hub . Allow a little time to admire the impressive architecture as they don’t build stations like this anymore. A point that Emeryville at the other end of the line goes some way to proving. 

Sleeper car passengers can avail themselves of the Metropolitan Lounge where light refreshments, comfortable seating and showers are available. Coach passengers can buy a lounge pass for $35 (February 2022 pricing).

For lunch nearby before departure consider Vapiano Riverside Chicago . Alternatively, throughout the station there are many fast food style dining options. For those onboard snacks a Walgreens and CVS can be found nearby.

After departure the train makes nine stops between Chicago and Omaha, where it’s scheduled to arrive at 11pm. Passing through Nebraska overnight the Zephyr crosses into Colorado early in the early morning hours with an intended arrival in Denver at 7am. 

Westbound: Day Two

That famous Zephyr scenery starts after Denver, making this a popular boarding point. 

Seasoned travelers recommend getting a seat in the sightseer car prior to arrival in Denver for the best views as the day starts. If the train is busy, staff may ask folks to limit time in the sightseer lounge to give everyone an opportunity to take in the immersive views the extra-large windows offer. 

After a day of epic scenery in Colorado the train passes into Utah in the evening where the last stop of day two is Salt Lake City, at around 11pm. Even though 11pm is late, if you’re looking for a stopover at Salt Lake the westbound service is best. It’s preferable to the 3am arrival on the eastbound service!

Westbound: Day Three

On the morning of day three the Zephyr aims to arrive at Reno around half-eight and continues on to the Californian capital of Sacramento for an arrival of just after two in the afternoon.

For the finale, the Zephyr travels alongside the waters of San Francisco bay, ending the journey at Emeryville, Oakland with a intended arrival of around 4pm.

Amtrak offers a guaranteed coach connection to Salesforce Plaza in the heart of San Francisco – be sure to book your destination as San Francisco rather than Emeryville to include the connection on your ticket. 

California Zephyr Train 6 – Eastbound (departs Emeryville)

Eastbound: day one.

The Eastbound Zephyr departs just after 9am daily from Oakland’s Emeryville station.

Emeryville station is just across the Bay Bridge from down-town San Francisco. Amtrak offers a connecting coach service that links Emeryville with Salesforce Plaza in the heart of San Francisco for a nominal fee. For this guaranteed connection select San Francisco as your departure destination when booking. 

Emeryville station is a modern although no-frills affair. There is no lounge for sleeper passengers nor food and beverage options within the station aside from vending machines. While there are places to eat nearby, it’s best to have breakfast and stock up on those on train snacks before arriving.  

On day one the Zephyr is scheduled to pass through Sacramento at around 11am. It’s then onto Reno at 4pm before crossing the remainder of Nevada in the evening and Utah overnight.

Eastbound: Day Two

On day two, the day with the Zephyr’s famous scenery, the train is scheduled for its first stop in Colorado at Grand Junction just after ten before. Be sure to head to the sightseer lounge early in the day, although keep in mind Amtrak staff may ask passengers to limit time in the lounge car if the train is busy. Day two ends in Denver, around half-six in the evening.

Eastbound: Day Three

On day three for the early risers the train passes through Omaha, Nebraska just after 5am.

Beyond Omaha, the service is well timed for all stops in Iowa and Illinois before the scheduled arrival into Chicago around 3pm. Perfect timing for a hotel check-in!

California Zephyr Ticket Types and Prices

As of February 2022 we checked the booking engine for various dates up to 12 months ahead. The following prices are a guide :

Sleeper Roomette

Sleeper bedroom suite, sleeper family / accessible bedroom.

Similar to airlines, Amtrak uses variable pricing which means prices fluctuate according to a range of factors. Outside of a sale, the prices above are unlikely to go lower than the minimum we found. Be aware they could certainly go higher than the upper range we found, especially as the train fills up.

This train is very popular in the summer months, making it likely to be more expensive at that time of year. Consider a winter trip on the Zephyr, the scenery is just as spectacular. In fact, many would argue a trip in the fall or winter are the ideal times for travelling on the Zephyr.

Travel Tip: If you book a roomette it’s not possible to guarantee which side of the train this is on. Economy cars are always joined to the train with the seats facing the direction of travel, although sleeper cars can be attached either way. If you’re traveling as a group of two and want the best scenery consider booking two roomettes – upstairs and across the corridor from each other. To get the room assignments locked in you’ll need to book over the phone rather than online. 

To book travel on the California Zephyr start at amtrak.com

California Zephyr Onboard Service

The California Zephyr uses two-level Amtrak Superliner cars. A typical Zephyr train has sleeper cars, coach cars, a dining car and sightseer lounge car.

Sightseer Lounge: The sightseer lounge car is a key space on the train. Upstairs there are large windows where the seating faces outward. It’s a relaxed atmosphere to meet other travellers over a coffee, read a book or listen to a podcast as the world passes by. Downstairs in the sightseer car you’ll find a cafe with light meals and refreshments for purchase accompanied by a seating area.

Sleeper Service: Sleeper tickets have the highest level of onboard service. Sleeper tickets include main meals – breakfast, lunch and dinner in the dining car. The first alcoholic beverage at dinner is included. Additional alcoholic beverages in the dining car, or items purchased from the café between meals must be purchased separately.

Each sleeper car has an attendant who completes an evening turn down service to convert the room to night mode, and the reverse in the morning. Sleeper cars guests also have access to showers, with towels and soap supplied onboard. These showers are shared in the case of roomettes and family/accessible bedrooms. The Sleeper bedroom suites have an in-room shower.

Coach Service: Amtrak coach class is known for its generous leg room and recline. Unfortunately, beyond this, there are few additional inclusions for coach passengers. Coach passengers don’t have access to showers or the dining car. In coach meals can only be purchased from the cafe or at stations along the way. Normally, coach passengers would have access to the dining car on a paid basis. This access is currently suspended due to COVID-19 related service adjustments. 

California Zephyr FAQ’s

The California Zephyr takes approximately 52 hours from end to end. The journey is two nights and three days.

Daily (everyday) in each direction.

Either direction will provide the same amazing scenery at key parts of the trip. Seasoned travellers often have a slight preference for the Westbound trip departing Chicago.

The views to the south are considered the best on main day of scenery (day 2) in Colorado. When booking a sleeper cabin the side you’ll be facing cannot be guaranteed.

Illinois : Chicago, Naperville, Princeton, Galesburg Iowa : Burlington, Mount Pleasant, Ottumwa, Osceola (Des Moines), Creston Nebraska : Omaha, Lincoln, Hastings, Holdrege, McCook Colorado : Fort Morgan, Denver, Fraser-Winter Park, Granby, Glenwood Springs, Grand Junction Utah : Green River, Helper, Provo, Salt Lake City Nevada : Elki, Winnemucca, Reno California : Truckee, Colfax, Roseville, Sacramento, Davis, Martinez, Richmond, Emeryville

Checked baggage may be available depending on which station you board at and where you disembark. If checked bags aren’t available there are luggage storage spaces available on board at the ends of each car to store bags.

The train has several “smoke stops” along the way where you can step off the train for short periods. These are announced onboard and subject to variations depending on circumstances on the day. Don’t venture too far – the train will leave without you! If you want to break up a trip you need to book a ticket for each segment – just like an airline.

California Zephyr Bottom Line

The California Zephyr is a 52-hour, 2 night and 3 day train journey across America offering spectacular and varied scenery. It’s a journey seasoned rail travelers highly recommend in either direction in any season, passing through many iconic mid-west cities.

Like many of the world’s great train journeys if you ever get the opportunity, take this train more than once. Each season brings a dramatic change in scenery that will make it feel like a new adventure each time.

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Amtrak California Zephyr Review: Is this 52 hour train ride worth it?

The Amtrak California Zephyr train ride is on the bucket list for many of us!  It is a 52 hour ride from Emeryville, California to Chicago, Illinois.  It is often called the most beautiful train trip in the US. The route has stops in Reno, Salt Lake City, Denver, and Omaha (along with 30+ other stops).  This route is one of the most diverse in the US, particularly the views of California’s Sierra Nevada Mountains, the Colorado Rocky Mountains and the Great Plains.

Read on for my raw honest observations, tips and warnings! I will let you know if the California Zephyr is worth it!

The scenery is the number one reason to make this journey!  It was truly wonderous going across America’s vast open spaces and seeing of all variety of landscapes.  Each landscape type beautiful in its own way. Simply amazing seeing places I would never otherwise see, and thinking of all the people who worked digging through mountains and in all sorts of dangerous conditions to lay those train tracks!

One of my favorite parts of the trip was staring out the window at the scenery, listening to Simon and Garfunkel! Somehow their music (especially their song “America”) just seemed to match the changing scenery perfectly!

There is a sightseer lounge on the train which offers spectacular scenery! It fills up quickly though so sometimes it was hard to find a seat.

Please note that my pictures below don’t accurately represent how beautiful the sights were! Also I missed getting pictures of many more incredible sights!

Accommodations

I stayed in a “Roomette”. As a solo traveller this seemed the best option to be able to have privacy and my own bed. At about $1200 this was more affordable than the next step up, a bedroom at about $2000. Coach seats are around $350. When you book a Roomette or bedroom it includes all of your meals, by the way. Coach does not.

My roomette during the day on the left, and the right shows the chairs folded down to a bed. If you have 2 people in the roomette there is a top bunk they can pull down. Maybe for one night 2 very close people would be ok in a roomette.  But any longer would be a trial I think!

• The chairs and bed were pretty comfortable. Dimensions of the roomette is 3’6′ X 6’6. Length of the bed worked fine for me at 5’7″, but might be cramped for someone taller.
• Windows are very large, perfect for seeing the amazing sights!
• The sleeper cars each have their own attendant. Ours was excellent! Very friendly, happy to help with any questions or needs. There is a call button in the room whenever you need her. She made up the bed and put it back to chairs each evening/ morning. She also had a little coffee bar set up and you could help yourself at any time.

• There is a place to hang a couple of items. This came in more handy than I’d expected. The storage space is very limited. You’ll do lots of planning of what to keep out of your suitcase, then how to Tetris-style arrange what you have out.  Also, the main storage is on the 2 steps for the upper bunk.  If someone was actually using the upper bunk and needed those steps there’s nearly zero storage. (You can check your larger luggage or there is a shelving area near the bathrooms where larger luggage can go. I had my small carry on in my roomette with me).
• There is a small built in garbage can!
• There are curtains on the door and windows of the roomette for privacy, and you can lock the door from the inside. You cannot lock it from the outside though, so you need to bring valuables with you when you leave, hide them and/ or trust your fellow train people! I did all three at various points.
• Bathrooms are tiny!  I think smaller than airplane bathrooms.  They are kept pretty clean by the car’s attendant.  One negative was the water pressure coming out of the sink faucet.. it was like trying to wash your hands with a power washer!  No matter how lightly I tried to press the lever for the faucet, water bounced off my hands and the sink, onto the mirror, counter, floor and me!
• Showers have just enough room to do what you need to do:  A small “dressing area” with a bench and hooks, and the shower with a plastic curtain.  Small individual bars of soap, shampoo and conditioner are provided, as are wash clothes and towels.  Water pressure was OK and plenty hot!

*Late breaking news! In the last hour of my trip the bathrooms in my car stopped working for some reason and we had to use the bathrooms in the sleeper car next door. I was shocked to see that that car had much more modern bathroom and shower fixtures and they were bigger! The car I was in was 631, so you can try to avoid that one! 😀

• My roomette was too hot!  Be sure to bring a small fan!! I had read this suggestion before my trip, but figured it would probably be ok. IT WASN’T! I had to sleep with my door open, I was so hot at night.
• Roomettes have only one electric outlet.  Be sure to bring a powerstrip so you can plug in more than one thing. I did this, but my outlet was finicky. I never quite figured out the right position to wiggle the plug into. I’d get a charge connecting and try not to jostle anything.
• Speaking of jostling… trying to sleep with all of the noise and movement was very difficult! I don’t think of myself as a particularly sensitive sleeper. I thought the train sounds and slight rocking would be fine. Unfortunately it was much noisier and rockier than I’d imagined. For noise, there is the train horn which sometimes goes off constantly depending on where we were, I guess. Also, when we’d go past another train, it was so sudden and so loud it scared me to death! I think the shaking, violent jolts and shuddering were what made sleep near impossible for me though. Think of the worst airplane turbulence you’ve been through, plus the worst earthquake you’ve experienced and you will start to get my drift! I’m only sort of kidding! I was on the lower level (room 11), and I’ve since read that the upper level rooms are quieter, so there’s another tip for you when booking!
• Don’t expect “newness”.  Bring cleaning wipes for your table and surfaces.  Though I think the crew does a great job, it did make me feel better to know I’d disinfected everything ( and I’m not usually particularly concerned about stuff like that).
• The roomette has lots of nooks and crannies to lose things in!  Be careful with small items.  There are many cracks where a phone or earbud can slip down, and it will take tearing the whole roomette apart to find the lost item!  My earbuds, in their case, fell down behind the seat after my bed was turned down.  I tried, but there was no way to get them (or even try to look for them) without disassembling the entire bed/chairs.  It took the room attendant and I quite a while the next morning trying to take the chair apart to find them.

The food was pretty good!  I’d say a few notches above pretty good airplane food! Dinner included a starter, main course, dessert and beverage.

You can have any meal delivered to your room if you don’t want to go to the dining car. You just tell your car attendant.

You are seated when you enter the dining room, and are placed with other diners to fill up each table to 4 people.  It was fun getting to know some people on the train to have someone to say hi to and chit chat with when you’d run into them during the trip. I met some very nice people.

The Cafe Car host makes you sit with other passengers! One breakfast I came up quite bleary eyed and catatonic after a bad night of little sleep. I asked the host if I coud sit on my own because I was really tired and would be terrible company.  He said (in front of all) “No, we can’t accommodate separate seating!”  The dining room was about 1/4 occupied.  There were many open tables. Annoying and embarrassing! 

I ended up having quite a few meals in my room. As I said, I did enjoy meeting some other folks on the train, but going through the same getting to know each other chit chat with different people 3x a day was just too much for me.

It didn’t occur to me before booking this trip, but the Amtrak California Zephyr runs the gamut as far as altitude goes! Sea level to over 9,000ft and back down within 2 days. I definitely felt it, getting a little headachy. So prepare yourself for that.

Though the train stops over 30 times you cannot get off the train for most of them. There are maybe 10 stops where you can get off for 5 to 10 minutes for fresh air (or to smoke!)

At Reno we had a 10 minute stop and my brother challenged me to gamble during the stop! So I ran into the station, up 3 flights of stairs to the station lobby trying to find a slot machine. There isn’t one. When I turned to run back to board the train I was faced with the hoards of people (and all their luggage) who had disembarked in Reno, coming up those 3 flights of stairs! I had to fight my way through them back to the train. Luckily I made it in time! So there’s something for you to try! It gets your heart rate up. I challenge you! 😀

The other exciting stop on the trip was in Grand Junction Colorado. The conductor announced that we could get off the train for 15 minutes and there was a little shop at the train station which donates its proceeds back to Amtrak. A bunch of us excitedly flooded out to the shop! It turned out to just sell what they have in the onboard snack shop…drinks, snacks, some sundries. I bought a cookie just because it was exciting to buy something from someplace else!

As you walk between cars you can open the doors with your hand OR foot! It took me a little bit to realize this and it made life much easier to use my foot!

List of stuff to bring

• Cash to tip the dining car servers and your room attendant
• Snacks (I brought Kind Bars)
• Disinfectant wipes for your roomette/seat surfaces
• Motion sickness pills (I ended up taking them to help me sleep)
• Coffee mug (only small paper cups are available on board)
• Sweats/clothes to sleep in since you need to go out “in public” to use the bathroom
• Flip flops for the shower
• Power strip so you can plug in more than one thing at a time
• Small electric fan

California Zephyr Route Map

I am really glad that I went on the California Zephyr! The chance to see that sort of scenery was just amazing. If I was to do it over again, I would certainly bring a small fan to make sure that I didn’t get too hot while trying to sleep. I would also bring some sort of a sleep aid medication or just Benadryl to help me fall asleep easier. Please let me know what you thought of the California Zephyr or let me know if you have any questions! Thanks for reading!

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16 Comments

Love your review. So helpful. Traveling soon. Will post how it went to you after.

Thank you! I hope you have a great trip and look forward to hearing how it went 🙂

Great review! I just read another Pin about 37 train rides in US., which stated that the Cal Zephyr does not have WiFi.

Thank you! It’s true that the train itself does not have WiFi, but you can catch it on and off as you travel. I would not try to stream a movie, but overall I didn’t have trouble texting or using the internet.

Thanks for the great review. I just finished a fantastic trip on the CZ from Emeryville to Chicago. Your description of the roomette experience mirrored mine, and prepared me for the minor inconveniences which were easily resolved. Your suggestions for items to bring were on point. I’m going to follow your blog for future adventures.

Thank you so much for your kind words and for taking the time to leave a comment! You made my day knowing I was able to help out!

I just completed a trip on the CZ from Emeryville to Chicago. It was a fantastic experience! Your review was extremely helpful and accurate. I too was a single traveler in a roomette, and every suggestion you made to prep for the trip was on point. Thanks for taking the time to publish this guide.

I love your review! My husband and I only rode the Zephyr from Denver to Glenwood Springs, so we didn’t get a chance to experience the sleeper portion. Good that you noted that dining is only included with sleeper accommodations. There is a small cafe available.

Great description. Thank you. There is a lot of value in getting a real persons pov!

Hi. Thanks for your commentary. I have taken the CZ from Chicago to Emeryville, stayed overnight at the hotel across the Emeryville track, and then gotten right back on the same train with the same crew and come home. I’ve done that 7 times. It’s a wonderful trip. Some of the irritations you speak of are resolved in other cars I think. The train attendant can do some things with the temperature. Again, thanks. I enjoyed the pictures and can’t wait to do the trip again next year. (It’s my traincation. I do it every year now.)

Being seated with other passengers in the dining car is a time-honored tradition. It’s a great way to meet other passengers. One has to accept this.

Love your descriptive commentary. This trip is on “my list” also.

Tremendous. Wonderful. U very much cteated a sensation of the you are there experience. Cant wait to take a train trip. Thanks a mil!!!

Sounds fun! I have driven across country round trip solo twice i wanna di this the stay in Chicago and explore drive a rental to Pittsburgh see my daughter have her drive me to Arlington VA to see her sister my oldest then fly home. Thats a trip!!!!

Fascinating and well written review! I hate being too hot and trying to sleep! I wonder if one was to upgrade rooms if there would be AC?! Great pictures! You provide a nice easy to read review. Keep em coming!

Wonderful and helpful review of your train ride. Such a pleasure to read and view the photos.

Amtrak Guide

By train travelers for train travelers, 10 best stops on the california zephyr route.

Connecting the Midwest with the West Coast, the California Zephyr route is one of the longest in the United States. The scenery from the train is stunning, plus you can get off the train at any of the stations on the route for a night (or longer) to explore different parts of America. To start planning your trip, our favorite California Zephyr stops are listed below with nearby hotels and things to do.

Note that you will need to buy separate one-way tickets for each leg of your trip or use the multi-city ticket option if you choose to get off and back on the train. We also may make a small commission if you book a hotel through the links below.

This website is reader supported and not affiliated with Amtrak. We may earn a small commission from links on this page .

Chicago is either the start or end of the California Zephyr route depending on the direction of travel. Train layovers are also common here, more reason to get out and explore or stay a night in order to see more sights.

If you’re in the city in the spring, summer or fall, you can get on the water taxi near Union Station for a ride to the Riverwalk and the Magnificent Mile . World-class museums , beaches , Navy Pier , Wrigley Field and Willis Tower are some of the other popular attractions to visit. Music-lovers should also check out one of the many live music venues , and don’t miss the pizza and steak .

Closest Hotel : Holiday Inn & Suites Chicago-Downtown (5-minute walk from train station)

It’s a night or very early morning stop in Omaha , but if the unique attractions appeal to you, it might be worth dealing with train schedule. A short walk away from the Amtrak station is the Durham Museum , which is in the 1931 Union Pacific train station (pictured above). The building is gorgeous, and you can explore local history and train cars from the 1940s and 1950s. Before or after, you can visit the Old Market district, which has restaurants, shops, galleries, live music and events.

Other top attractions include the Henry Doorly Zoo and Aquarium , Lauritzen Gardens , and the Joslyn Art Museum . And if you love railroad history, have a meal in Little Italy , where many railroad workers lived. Union Pacific railroad construction began in Omaha in 1863, and Union Pacific is headquartered in the city still today.

Closest Hotel : Embassy Suites by Hilton Omaha Downtown Old Market (11-minute walk from the train station)

There are many museums , breweries and activities to explore in and around Denver . The historic Union Station is in a walkable area near Coors Field and many restaurants . With a rental car or tour package , you can also visit Rocky Mountain National Park , Vail and Boulder .

Rail fans may also want to check out the Colorado Railroad Museum , which is about 25 minutes away from the Amtrak station by car. The museum has seasonal train rides, exhibits, and historic engines and rail cars.

Closest Hotels : Kimpton Hotel Born and The Crawford Hotel (2-minute walk from the train station)

Fraser/Winter Park

In the Colorado Rocky Mountains, the Fraser/Winter Park stop is must-do if you like winter sports and outdoor activities. A free shuttle at the Amtrak station will take you to downtown Winter Park , the Winter Park Resort and Granby . In the summer, mountain biking and hiking are top activities — skiing and snowboarding are popular in the winter. There are also year-round events and a large number of breweries to check out.

Closest Hotel : Holiday Inn Express & Suites Fraser – Winter Park Area (10-minute walk from the train station)

Glenwood Springs

Glenwood Springs has activities for people of all ages and interests. It can be a relaxing or exciting stop. Choose from hot springs , spas , a theme park , trails , rafting and tubing , and a variety of snow sports . As a bonus, the Amtrak station is in walking distance of hotels, restaurants and the year-round Glenwood Hot Springs pool (pictured above).

Closest Hotel : Hotel Denver (1-minute walk from the train station)

Grand Junction

For beautiful scenery, wineries , unique shops and art galleries , consider getting off the train in Grand Junction . The Colorado National Monument is the top nearby attraction. A rental car is best for driving through the area and reaching hiking trails . You can walk eight minutes from the train station to Enterprise or arrange for a pick-up (requires a rental reservation).

The Amtrak station is in a walkable area, so you don’t have to rent a car to explore downtown . Main Street is about three blocks away, and in the opposite direction you can walk to the Colorado River.

Closest Hotel : Tru by Hilton Grand Junction (6-minute walk from the train station)

Salt Lake City

Full of cultural and outdoor attractions, Salt Lake City is the home of the Salt Lake Temple (pictured above) and The Tabernacle . A top attraction is the Natural History Museum of Utah , which has a great dinosaur collection, or check out Clark Planetarium to view exhibits and IMAX films.

For outdoor fun, head to Red Butte Garden , a large botanical garden with hiking trails at the edge of the city, or to Big Cottonwood Canyon , which is less than a 20-minute drive from downtown. Additionally, you can drive to many ski resorts in less than an hour.

If you are willing to drive a few hours, you can also visit several national parks , including Arches National Park. Multiple rental car companies are near the train station if you want to rent a car.

Closest Hotel : Homewood Suites by Hilton Salt Lake City-Downtown (10-minute walk from the train station)

“The Biggest Little City in the World,” Reno is a fun place to exit the train if you like casinos and gambling . But there is more to the city than that. There are several museums (including the National Automobile Museum), a riverwalk , wildlife sanctuary and a ski resort worth visiting.

It’s easy to get around once you arrive. The area around the Reno Amtrak Station is very walkable, plus you can get rides from Uber and Lyft, or rent a car at the nearby Enterprise .

Closest Hotels : Reno Suites and Whitney Peak Hotel (3-minute walk from the train station, and several other hotels are a short walk away)

Truckee is a small mountain town near Lake Tahoe with a surprising amount of restaurants . Donner Memorial State Park (pictured above) and the Northstar California Resort are top attractions — there are many outdoor activities to enjoy year-round, and history buffs should stop by the park’s visitor center to view exhibits on the Donner Party and Sierra Nevada railroad construction.

Lyft and Uber are options for getting around. The ride to the state park is only 10 minutes from the Amtrak station, the Northstar California Resort is less than 20 minutes away, and the north side of Lake Tahoe is over 30 minutes away, with Tahoe Vista and Kings Beach the closest places to stay near the water. You can also rent a car at the Truckee Tahoe Airport .

Closest Hotel : Tahoe Star Hotel (4-minute walk from the train station – also check Airbnb and VRBO for a larger variety of accommodations near Amtrak and Lake Tahoe)

The capital of California, Sacramento is the home of the California State Fair , California Automobile Museum and the California State Railroad Museum , which features excursion train rides and a custom 1948 private rail car. There’s more history and fun to explore in the Old Sacramento Waterfront historic district . There are restaurants, nightclubs, bars, boat rides and locally-owned shops, not to mention a Ferris wheel and a carousel.

Another unique thing to do is visit one of the area’s farmers markets . Sacramento is near large agricultural areas that produce crops for the entire country. Kids and animal-lovers will also enjoy the Sacramento Zoo .

Closest Hotel : Hyatt Regency Sacramento (5-minute walk from the train station)

More Information

• Amtrak travel: 5 things to know
• Amtrak’s 15 long-distance routes
• 10 best Amtrak routes to ride in winter
• Amtrak trips out West: 7 amazing vacations

Top photo credit: Patrick aka DebateLord/Wikipedia (Winter Park, Colorado)

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California Zephyr Best Time of Year and Side of Train

The Amtrak California Zephyr is a once in a lifetime experience, so riding it at the best time of year and being on the best side of the train are critical. We’ve taken this train trip in all seasons and the best time of year to be on the California Zephyr is the fall. The best side of the California Zephyr to be on is the south side of the train. If you are heading west that is the left side in the direction of travel and if you are heading east it is the right side in the direction of travel.

• 1 Best Months to Ride the California Zephyr
• 2 California Zephyr In The Fall
• 3 California Zephyr in Winter
• 4 California Zephyr in Spring
• 5 California Zephyr in Summer
• 6.1 California Zephyr in Sleeper Cars
• 6.2 California Zephyr in Coach
• 7 California Zephyr Scenery

Best Months to Ride the California Zephyr

California zephyr in the fall.

The prettiest time to ride the California Zephyr is from mid September to late September when the fall colors are beautiful in the gorges of Colorado.

The Colorado section of the trip is the highlight, so plan your trip around the weather in that area only. Most years the fall colors peak between mid September and early October in Colorado.

If you wait too long into the fall, such as late October and early November, you’ll miss the fall colors and be too early for the best snow scenery as well. November is the worst month to ride the California Zephyr as you’ll be dealing with colder temperatures and probably not have the best scenery.

California Zephyr in Winter

Riding the California Zephyr in winter is a delight. You’ll see snow covered mountains and gorges that will amaze you. Make sure you’ve given enough time for a decent snow fall before your trip. The early winter months of November and December are not ideal as there isn’t enough snow on the ground. February is the best winter month to ride the California Zephyr due to the heavy amounts of snow falling in the area. March is also good.

The views in winter are simply wonderful. It is an incredible feeling to see the snow capped Rocky Mountains outside your windows as you ride through Colorado.

California Zephyr in Spring

In Spring the snow melts and gives way to green vistas again. As with other seasons you want to be careful to not be on board between seasons, when the snow is gone, but the new growth has not happened yet. Spring is not our favorite time to be on the California Zephyr, but May is a good choice due to lower crowds if you need to visit in this time frame.

California Zephyr in Summer

The worst season to ride the California Zephyr is the summer. You’ll be riding with more passengers and miss out on both fall colors and snow. The positive aspect of this time frame is that you’ll have more light in the day and should have good weather. This is our least favorite time to ride the train.

California Zephyr Best Side Of The Train

The views are best from the south side of the California Zephyr . You’ll see the absolute best views and gorges during the Colorado section if you are on the south side of the train during this section.

If you are facing the north side you’ll also see great views, but not the most stunning parts of the canyon. As you get into California, and near the Donner Pass area, the views are better to the north.

The best thing you can do is get to the observation car before the canyon section of the trip and you’ll be able to see out both sides. During summer months we have seen trains limit the amount of time passengers can spend in the observation car due to crowding. This is less of a problem during the winter.

If you are wanting to take photographs of the canyons from the train, follow these Amtrak train photography tips .

California Zephyr in Sleeper Cars

If you are riding in a sleeper car, you cannot guarantee which side of the train you’ll be on. The cars are often put on in different orders and directions so on some trips a car may be facing the opposite direction. When you board, check which side you are on and make a plan to get to observation car, or dining car to see what you want to see.

You’ll have traditional dining on the California Zephyr, which is a long meal. You can ask your dining car attendant to be on a specific side of the train and enjoy the views from whichever side you want. Eat your meal slow and soak up the views as this is one of the best train experiences you can have anywhere in the world.

California Zephyr in Coach

If you are in Coach Class you’ll likely have more options for getting the seat you want. Sometimes you’ll be assigned a seat ahead of time and other times it will be open seating, where you can pick a seat when you board and then that is your seat for the entire trip. If that is the case just pick a seat on the side you want and you’ll be all set. If you end up on the wrong side of the train, just ask a conductor if you can switch sides to your preferred side, and they will usually accommodate you.

California Zephyr Scenery

If you’d like to see the actual scenery you’ll be seeing on the trip, we made a ride along video during a late September trip of just the views from the train.

The California Zephyr is the prettiest rail route in the United States so it is important to get your timing right on this vacation. With some planning ahead of time you should be able to see the best sights at the right time of year and from the best side of the train.

Robert Marmion

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This 2,438-mile Train Trip From California to Chicago Offers Views of the Rockies and Sierra Mountains Like You've Never Seen Before

The 51-hour California Zephyr train journey also stops in Salt Lake City, Denver, and Omaha.

With a reputation for being one of the most beautiful train routes in North America, Amtrak’s California Zephyr travels daily between Chicago and the San Francisco Bay Area on a 51-hour, 20-minute trip traversing 2,437 miles.

"The California Zephyr passes through two mountain ranges that are gorgeous ," Amtrak spokesperson Marc Magliari told Travel + Leisur e, referring to the Rocky Mountains and Sierra Nevadas. "In some places, you can see views that can't be seen from the road because a lot of the railroad tracks were there well before cars were invented and roads were paved."

Passengers can take any portion of the route during its daily journeys through Illinois, Iowa, Nebraska, Colorado, Utah, Nevada, and California, which include stops in major cities like Chicago, Omaha, Denver , Grand Junction, Salt Lake City, and Reno, as well as Naperville, Lincoln, Fraser, Glenwood Springs, Davis, and Truckee. Although the Bay Area stop is on the East Bay in Emeryville, connections to both Oakland and San Francisco are available on the Thruway bus service.

Courtesy of Amtrak

Throughout the journey, there are plenty of stunning viewpoints. "Climbing out of Denver, you can look down from the train and be above the Mile High City as you first make your way through a whole series of tunnels that bring you up to a place called Fraser and Winter Park," Magliari said. "The train continues on winding its way through the mountain. You pass through Salt Lake City in darkness, but pop out in time to be through Reno when you're in the Sierras."

During this stretch, he said the charm comes in riding on the hand-built railroad between Reno and Sacramento, which is "part of the original transcontinental railroad route built during the Civil War to unite the country." That’s not the only historical aspect of the route — the name California Zephyr also dates back to the train that ran from 1949 to 1970 , before Amtrak even began.

Joe Raedle/Getty Images

Amtrak Train 5 leaves Chicago’s Union Station at 2 p.m. each day and pulls into Emeryville at 4:10 p.m. two days later, while Train 6 departs Emeryville daily at 9:10 a.m. and arrives in Chicago at 2:50 p.m. two days later. Both have lunch and dinner service the first day, three meals the middle day, and breakfast and lunch the third. 

Travelers can choose from a variety of accommodations aboard the train, from coach seats to bedroom suites. Five types of Superliner rooms are available across two levels, starting with the Roomette , measuring between six-foot-six to six-foot-eight in length and three-foot-six wide. It has two seats by day that are transformed into an upper and lower bed at night, with access to a shared restroom and shower in the car. 

Those craving more space and a private bathroom can upgrade to the Bedroom with twice as much space, at seven-foot-one to seven-foot-six long by six-foot-six to six-foot-eight wide. Sleeping two adults, this space has a sofa and separate chair that turn into an upper and lower bed at night, as well as an in-room sink, restroom, and shower.

Families can even go twice as big with the Bedroom Suite , which can sleep up to four adults. This is basically two Bedrooms attached, offering two of everything in the standard size. There’s also a Family Room , designed for two adults and two children, with seating for four during the day and two upper beds and two lower beds at night, plus a private restroom and shower. Passengers with disabilities can book the Accessible Bedroom , which can sleep two adults in an upper and lower bed. These accommodations have accessible features in the private restroom, as well as more space, with rooms as long as nine-foot-five and wide as six-foot-nine. 

Across all the Superliner rooms, the beds have newly upgraded bedding, pillows, towels, and linens, and customers also have a dedicated first-class attendant, lounge access, and priority boarding. 

For those who prefer more standard seating, Amtrak’s coach class is available, with reclining seats that have tray tables, reading lights, and electric outlets — and with two-by-two seating, there are no middle seats. 

Those staying in private rooms also get all meals included in the dining room, with seasonal menus featuring a variety of entrees, like omelets and quesadillas for breakfast and burgers and salads for lunch. The three-course dinners, which include wine, come with appetizers like caprese skewers and coconut shrimp, entrees like flat-iron steak and Atlantic salmon, and dessert like chocolate toffee mousse and lemon cake. Depending on availability, coach passengers may also be able to purchase dining car access once on board. Guests can choose to have the meals in their rooms, too.

All passengers have access to the cafe , which offers food a la carte, from breakfast items to burgers, tamales, and hot dogs throughout the day.

The California Zephyr also offers checked baggage service and trainside checked bicycles , and allows small cats and dogs on board (check for restrictions). 

No matter what portion of the route you take, the California Zephyr offers a way to experience America's landscape like no other, especially through some of the nation’s greatest mountain ranges, making it a glorious experience. Magliari said, "The difference between the California Zephyr and some of the other Western routes is simply more miles in the mountains."

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Amtrak Review: Riding Amtrak’s California Zephyr

Overnight trains? We love them! We’ve ridden a lot of them in Europe and Asia, but we’ve never tried an overnight train in the states. This is surprising, because they’ve saved us the cost of a hotel, the stress of airports, and they’re typically far more comfortable than flying.

Check out our video on our train trip on the California Zephyr!

When we wanted a weekend away, we decided it was time to see how US rail travel on Amtrak compares to what we’ve experienced internationally . We booked a night on Amtrak’s California Zephyr from Salt Lake City, Utah (our home base) to Emeryville, California (right outside of San Francisco). This journey would be about 730 miles.

Booking on Amtrak.com

Amtrak has a great website and booking tickets is simple. If you’ve ever booked a flight online, this process is pretty much the same. Stick in your dates, your departing city and destination, pick your seats and that’s pretty much it.

Booking through Amtrak’s website took about fifteen minutes. They also have a pretty well built mobile app you can use.

Amtrak Cost

Our total cost was $338 for two one-way tickets in a Superliner Roomette. We opted not to get Amtrak’s trip insurance (reflected in the price difference between the two images above: $34). We also booked a one way flight from Oakland to get back to SLC fairly last minute. The price for the last-minute flight home was close to the cost of our one-way train tickets.

Travel Time

The total travel time on the train was stated at 14 hours with a scheduled departure time of 11:30 PM. We figured we would be able to sleep through the vast nothingness of Nevada and wake up before making our way through the Sierra Nevada mountains, where we’d be glued to the windows. As our train didn’t experience significant delays AFTER it picked us up (continue reading for more info on those delays), our journey took close to the estimated time.

Amtrak Rooms and Seating

Amtrak offers four different seating options on their overnight trains. Viewliner options can only be found on East Coast trains.

• Coach: Spacious seats that recline a bit more than typical airline seats. You’ll have to purchase meals on the train, or pack a picnic.

• Superliner Trains (our train): 3 feet 6 inches by 6 feet 6 inches. Two seats that face each other next to a single window. The two seats fold down to make the lower bed while another bed folds down from the ceiling for the top bunk. Several shared bathrooms in each car.
• Viewliner Trains (trains to and from NYC): 3 feet 6 inches by 6 feet 8 inches. In-room toilet, two windows, and two seats that face each other. One folds down into a bed while another folds down from the ceiling to make a bunk.
• Superliner Trains: 6 feet 6 inches by 7 feet 6 inches. In-room toilet, sink, shower, and reclining chair. One window. The lower sofa converts into a bed while a 2nd bed folds down from the ceiling.
• Viewliner Trains (trains to and from NYC): 6 feet 8 inches by 7 feet one inch. Two windows. The lower sofa converts into a bed while a 2nd bed folds down from the ceiling.
• Superliner Family Bedroom: Meals included – 5 feet 2 inches by 9 feet 5 inches. Two windows on either side of the room. Two adult beds, two child beds. No in-room toilet.
• Viewliner Bedroom Suite (trains to and from NYC): Meals included – This is just two Viewliner bedrooms with an adjoining door.

Departure and Boarding

On the days running up to departure, we kept an eye on the handy Amtrak app and saw that the train was consistently late. Our departure day was no different. Twelve hours prior to our scheduled time to leave, the app showed our train was over two hours late.

We had no idea how accurate the reported times were, so we got to the Salt Lake City Amtrak station- which is essentially just a relocatable building- at midnight. At this point, the Amtrak app was saying our train was three hours late. When we arrived there were already quite a few people waiting around, and we joined them.

It was a warm July night, so sitting on a bench outside wasn’t a big deal. We can’t imagine what a three hour delay might be like in the early morning hours of January here in Salt Lake City. There’s no way everyone waiting for our train would have fit inside the tiny Amtrak “station” building.

As a side note, the Salt Lake City station is pretty dinky and the bathrooms were a bit dirty and barely lit. However, it appears that many stations in other cities are much nicer.

At about 2:30 AM people began lining up. Amtrak workers were checking tickets and providing passengers with pieces of paper showing which room/seat they’d be in.

Finally, just before 3:00 AM, the California Zephyr rolled into the station. Employees held all of the boarding passengers back while other passengers disembarked. We were reminded that it was “quiet time” on the train and we should try to get to our seats quickly and quietly. We made it on board by 3:15 AM and the train departed about 10 minutes later.

Our Superliner Roomette was 50% turned down when we got on. The bottom bed was made up, but the top bed was not pulled down. This was an easy process to do ourselves by simply pulling the top bunk down. There’s a safety net for the top bed that we originally laughed at, but it actually saved Amy from falling out in the wee hours of the morning when the train swayed hard around a turn.

Once tucked into our bunk, we looked forward to sleeping through much of the morning while the train rocked along the desolate Nevada countryside. Amtrak had something else in store as “quiet time” was apparently over at 7 AM when breakfast was to be served in the dining car, no matter what time you boarded the train.

We were in for a big surprise when the dining car hostess began making announcements through the entire train. There was no way to mute them in your room. Everyone needed to know that breakfast was being served, the dining car was now full, that you should come get your name on the waiting list, names of people whose table was now ready, the dining car was not full, the dining car was full again… These announcements happened consistently, 1-2 minutes apart, for the first several daylight hours. That was the end of our sleep.

What’s Breakfast Like?

After getting our wits about us and watching miles of sagebrush go by the window, we made our way to the dining car about 30 minutes before the end of breakfast. We knew this because they were counting it down over the PA system constantly. We were seated with a quiet girl who didn’t seem to be up for conversation, but she was pleasant enough.

I had a breakfast quesadilla, which was basically scrambled eggs and onions in between two fried tortillas, with some salsa verde on top. It was good, not great, but still better than most economy class airline food.

Amy had a more traditional breakfast of a veggie omelette, potatoes, and a croissant. Her meal was better than mine.

After breakfast we went back to our room. Our room attendant had put away the beds and we plopped down on the two chairs for some more window watching. There was no wifi on this train, which was fine. We were able to work offline, mess around with a new camera, and just enjoy the train ambling along. While our train did not offer wifi, there are quite a few that do .

We were able to get off the train for a few minutes in Winnemucca and Reno, Nevada. It was nice to be able to get some fresh air and stretch our legs. Amtrak passengers must be heavy smokers, because each station was announced as either “enough time to smoke” or “not enough time to smoke.”

After Reno, we grabbed some snacks to take back to our room from the well-stocked lounge car and were excited to kick back and watch as we made our way through the Sierra Nevada Mountains.

We headed back to the dining car for lunch just as we were passing Donner Lake, just north of Lake Tahoe in California. Lunch was much better than breakfast. I opted for a cheeseburger and Amy had a veggie burger. Both of these meals were great, and we were seated with a nice mother-son pair who had great stories of riding Amtrak extensively around the country.

The Final Stretch

We spent the last few hours of the train ride relaxing in our room and the viewing car. The final hour and half ran along the east side of San Pablo Bay, with the sun glinting just above it. A stunning view to close out the train ride. We arrived into Emeryville at about 7:20 PM, three hours after we were scheduled.

We then made caught the (free!) Emery Go-Round Bus to the Bart station to make our way into San Francisco.

Final Thoughts on Our Amtrak Journey

It was a train and, in our opinion, trains are awesome! Trains are a completely different experience to flying or driving. We enjoy spending the time without being in a hurry to get to our destination, enjoying the scenery, eating decent food, and meeting interesting people.

Amtrak’s rail offering is different than those that we’ve had in Europe and Asia and obviously more targeted for those that just enjoy traveling by rail. We understand that Amtrak is used quite a bit for commuters on the East Coast, but that isn’t really a great option for West Coast destinations.

This was not the longest train journey we have been on in terms of distance, but it was the longest in terms of time. A flight to San Francisco or Oakland would have been about an hour and a half and if we were pressed for time, we would have opted to fly. Since time wasn’t an issue, taking the train was definitely a positive experience and we would absolutely travel on Amtrak again.

The staff onboard were extremely kind and we really enjoyed the guy working the lounge car. He was full of personality and very welcoming.

Amtrak Complaints

Our number one complaint is not fully the fault of Amtrak. Being delayed three hours when your scheduled departure time is 11:30 PM is not ideal. Spending the early morning hours in the Salt Lake City Amtrak station isn’t luxurious by any stretch of the word and we can’t imagine what the experience would be like in the middle of winter or if there was a storm. However, the delays are not completely the fault of Amtrak, as they share the rails with freight companies and if a coal train breaks down on the tracks, Amtrak must wait. They also travel a long distance and if there’s bad weather anywhere along the journey, they’ll get behind schedule.

Our second complaint is mostly dependent on the above delay. What is with all of the announcements?! The voice blasting through the speakers at 7 AM wouldn’t have been so bad had we been on the train and gotten to sleep around midnight. Having only had about three and a half hours of sleep before they started up was frustrating. A simple switch to turn off the PA system in sleepers would be a nice touch- perhaps a way for Amtrak to only announce very critical information for those who wish to sleep, and keep the dining and lounge car announcements out of the room?

Additionally, Amtrak needs to get the staff some personal radios or something. The PA was not only for announcements, but also used for staff to ask and answer questions between themselves that had nothing to do with the passengers.

Amtrak Q&A

How much was the train ticket? We had a Superliner Roomette, from Salt Lake City, UT to Emeryville CA and paid $338 for two people. This also included meals. Occasionally Amtrak will offer a great sale, so if you’re thinking of taking the trip, keep your eyes open. They also offer a Rail Pass . These are typically cheaper than booking a straight ticket and will let you ride for a specific number of days on any train (though you will still need to make reservations for each train).

How was the food? Breakfast was ok, arguably better than what you would find on an airplane. Lunch was much better. See the Breakfast and Lunch sections above.

Is there Wifi? The California Zephyr does not have wifi. Other Amtrak trains do have wifi, here is a list of those trains .

How were the beds? The beds are narrow, with the bottom bed on our train being 2’ 4” wide and the top bunk was just two feet wide. The cushion on both of them were fine. They obviously aren’t luxury mattresses, but I’ve slept in motels with worse beds. We are tall people and didn’t have any problems with the length.

Why do people take a sleeper train with Amtrak and not just fly? We understand why you would take the train in Europe as opposed to flying, as they are efficient and can save you paying for a hotel room when you’re traveling between cities.

To answer the question of why someone would take Amtrak in the US instead of flying is exactly why we took this journey. If you’ve been on a train and enjoyed it, if you think you’d like riding a train, or when your trip is as much about the journey as the destination, Amtrak is a great option. You’ll see parts of the country you’d never have the opportunity to see otherwise.

We met several people on this train and I asked them all, “why Amtrak?” Many of them just love trains and a surprising amount of people had booked Amtrak Rail Passes for a month or longer to travel from coast to coast and back, just to see the United States.

Have you ridden Amtrak? Have more questions for us? Leave a comment below!

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The World Through a Lens

Sharing Stories, and a View, Aboard the California Zephyr

A photographer traveled across America on one of Amtrak’s long-distance train routes. Here’s what she saw.

Glenwood Canyon in western Colorado, as seen from the observation car. Credit...

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Photographs and Text by Marta Giaccone

• July 18, 2022

I woke up around 5 a.m. to a low but incessant rumbling. Faint hints of daylight had appeared over my fellow passengers’ heads, most of which were still bent in rest. Some people yawned; others stared intently out the window at the valley. I had been aboard the train for about 40 hours, and there was still a long way to go before our scheduled arrival in the San Francisco Bay area.

Riding westbound, I walked to the back of the train to see the rising sun reflected on the tracks. We were passing through Nevada. A few minutes later we stopped in the city of Winnemucca, Nev., right in front of the Martin Hotel, which, at the end of the 19th century, catered to the Basque immigrants who’d moved there to work as shepherds.

Amtrak’s California Zephyr, considered by many rail enthusiasts to be among the most scenic long-distance train routes in the United States, operates between Chicago and Emeryville, Calif., near Oakland. The entire route takes some 52 hours and includes 33 stops. In 2018, while traveling through the United States on a three-month photography project, I completed a majority of the trip, departing from Mount Pleasant, Iowa, on a sweltering mid-August day.

I boarded the train at 5:59 p.m. in the golden light of a perfectly clear day, glancing outward at the first of a long series of soy and corn fields, and small-town backyards that are so often overlooked.

At 10:55 p.m. the 12 silver carriages of the Zephyr slowed and stopped in Omaha. Connie, another passenger, got on and sat next to me. At 72, she had short gray hair, a sun-kissed face and kind eyes. It was too late to start a conversation, so we both just tried to get some sleep. (Neither of us fully succeeded.)

In the early morning, while the yellow hills of Nebraska and Colorado rolled all around us, Connie told me she’d been visiting her daughter in Omaha and would be getting off that afternoon at Glenwood Springs, Colo., to meet her husband.

Eventually I started wandering through the cars, shyly but restlessly, wanting to meet and talk to everyone. It felt like the first day of summer camp. Small groups of people were mingling here and there, exchanging a few words. Others preferred to keep to themselves in their roomettes , or sat alone in their coach seats reading or napping.

The present-day California Zephyr began service in 1983, though an earlier iteration of the train — sharing the same name, but operated privately on a slightly different route — ran between 1949 and 1970.

In the 1970s, long-distance passenger trains like the Zephyr were unreliable and unprofitable and couldn’t compete with airplanes or the booming interstate highway system. But in the early ’80s, the reality reversed: Air travel worsened (fares skyrocketed, carriers abandoned marginal routes, competition intensified), and some Americans turned again to their network of trains. Short-distance train travel was often cheaper and more convenient, and the routes, conveniently, began and ended in city centers. In 1979, Amtrak added new Superliners — bi-level intercity railroad passenger cars — on its Western routes, and some people rediscovered a long-lost commodity.

As Henry Kisor describes in “Zephyr: Tracking a Dream Across America,” published in 1994: “The Zephyr represented a new conception of rail travel: the train as tourist cruise ship through a sea of scenery, not merely as a means of transportation from city to city.”

And the train’s schedule, as Mr. Kisor points out, encouraged passengers to sleep while the less exciting scenery rolled by — the Great Plains, and the arid landscapes of Utah and Nevada — and enjoy dramatic alpine views during daylight hours.

I spent most of my first full day in the observation car, also known as the Sightseer Lounge (and previously called the Vista Dome). The car’s floor-to-ceiling windows offered the best possible views across the Rocky Mountains, the Colorado River Valley, the Continental Divide, the Sierra Nevada and the green forests of Northern California. The soft blue chairs grant riders a bit of privacy, but the tables for four are where most of the socializing happens. Sitting across from Connie, I made friends with nearly everyone around us.

For a majority of people I met, traveling on the California Zephyr wasn’t about getting somewhere. Instead the trip was a reward — a slow and much-anticipated few days carved out of a busy lifestyle.

I met Joe, 33, and Mo, 38, a newlywed couple from England who had crossed the Atlantic on the Queen Mary II, gotten married and then boarded the California Zephyr in Chicago, planning to ride all the way to Emeryville. This was their honeymoon.

Then there were John, 33, and Emma, 27, two Amish parents from Pennsylvania who were headed to Grand Junction, Colo., for a specialist doctor’s appointment. Emma was crocheting a beautiful centerpiece on what was her very first train ride.

Rose, 18, Jenna, 23, two cousins donning neck pillows, were traveling home to San Francisco.

At the very end of the train, by the back window, I met Robert, 40, and his 2-year-old daughter, Madeline, who was napping in his arms. They were on a birthday trip, along with Madeline’s mother and grandmother. They had hopped on in Denver and would detrain at the end of the line.

Sitting next to Connie and me were Tyler, 10, and his grandfather, Bruce, 66. They had boarded the train in Iowa. Their plan: to tour Arches National Park and the Grand Canyon. They decided to both wear flashy T-shirts so as not to lose sight of each other.

Seated behind me was a group of florally clad Mennonites from Michigan. They were on their way to Glenwood Springs, and were talking animatedly about something they had spotted outside the window.

Aside from the observation car, the train’s other social hub is the dining car. I missed breakfast the first morning, so, on my second full day, I headed straight there. An attendant was busy setting the tables. The car’s booths sit four people, and all the meals are communal — meaning that, if you aren’t part of a group of four, then you’ll likely be seated with other passengers.

Fifty years ago, having a meal in the dining car was an elegant affair — think linen tablecloths, fine china, silverware. The waiters would dress in white jackets and blue bow ties, with long white aprons and towels over their arms. Now, they wear light blue shirts, red ties and blue aprons. The china and silverware are still there, but, based on old photographs I’ve seen, they look cheaper. There’s no linen in sight; it’s been replaced by large sheets of white paper.

Whenever I’m on a long-distance bus trip — I’ve traveled extensively around the United States on the Greyhound network — I get the feeling that passengers are there not because they choose to be but rather because they have to be, because the bus is either the only available or the cheapest option. (This was always true for me, anyway.)

When traveling by train, though, the atmosphere is completely different. There was a sense of community aboard the California Zephyr. After all, there aren’t many places where Mennonites, a Japanese student, smiley newlyweds, parents with their kids and grandkids in tow and retirees are all bundled together for such a long period of time, sharing their life stories.

And that, as Henry Kisor wrote, is part of the appeal for long-distance train passengers — “the joy of encountering humankind in its endless variety.”

Marta Giaccone is a photographer based in Tallinn, Estonia. You can follow her work on Instagram .

Follow New York Times Travel on Instagram , Twitter and Facebook . And sign up for our weekly Travel Dispatch newsletter to receive expert tips on traveling smarter and inspiration for your next vacation. Dreaming up a future getaway or just armchair traveling? Check out our 52 Places list for 2022 .

An earlier version of three picture captions with this essay misstated the locations shown. The lead image shows Glenwood Canyon, not Byers Canyon; the trackside scenery is in Arvada, Colo., not Nebraska; and the railroad crossing is in Fort Morgan, Colo., not Iowa.

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D enver: The city is undergoing a rebirth , with a newly refreshed Union Station and the gradual reopening of the mile-long, pedestrian-friendly 16th Street Mall to go along with views of the snow-capped Front Range.

Amtrak’s Empire Builder Route :  Most people who take the 4,000-mile journey from Chicago to Seattle will just watch the heartland whiz by. Our writer hopped off to explore six places you might otherwise miss .

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8 Best Stops on the California Zephyr with Rail Pass

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The Amtrak USA Rail Pass allows you to hop off up to ten times on two lines. I chose the California Zephyr as one of the train lines, and I was looking for the best places to stop using my Amtrak USA Rail Pass. I couldn’t find much info, so I had to find the best places to stop myself while riding the California Zephyr roundtrip.

If you’re reading this post to decide whether you should use your Rail Pass to ride the California Zephyr, let me tell you without a doubt that you should do it!

And if you’re debating on riding coach, the  8 places I found to stop on the California Zephyr all have accommodation, making it possible to take a break from sleeping on the train every night. You’ll still have to sleep on the train, but never two nights in a row!

(P.S. You’ll find my suggested itinerary later on, which is designed to give you lots of breaks from sitting on the train.)

Going east to west, here are 8 stops that I thought were worth to stop on the California Zephyr and use one of your USA Rail Pass segments on.

[This post contains affiliate links.]

Table of Contents

8 Places to Stop Along the California Zephyr

1. chicago, il.

Many Amtrak train lines start and finish in Chicago, and the California Zephyr is no different.

Chicago has a long history as the hub of the country, connecting the USA by rail. Its importance for the nation’s growth means that Chicago is a place where you can experience history and culture. Whether you start or stop here, make sure you explore Chicago during your California Zephyr trip, because it’s one of the best places to get off on the train. (Disclaimer: I’m from Chicago, so I’m biased.)

Points of Interest in Chicago

Skydeck at the Sears (Willis) Tower

Once called the Sears Tower (and I refuse to call it anything else), it was at one point the tallest building in the world. It’s still the tallest in Chicago, so head up to the glass boxes at the Skydeck to get a view of the city.

Signature Room in the Hancock Building

For another great view of the city, the bar located at the top of the Hancock Building (one of the tallest in Chicago) is a great option.

Insider tip: If you go to the bar, you don’t’ have to pay for entry like you would at the observation deck. You’ll have to buy a drink, but better to pay for a drink and a view than just a view!

Lake Michigan

So many activities on this gigantic lake, from walking/biking along the Lakefront Trail, to hanging out on a beach or going on a boat ride.

Millennium Park

The “frontyard” of Chicago, this is a place you can’t miss. From the Bean (Cloud Gate), to concerts at the Pritzker Pavilion, to great views from the Lurie Garden, you’ll find this park to be a great refuge from the city.

A bit (okay, a lot) touristy, but definitely a place to go on your first time in Chicago. Take a boat tour from here, or ride the Ferris wheel in the city where the first one was revealed to the world!

For more things to do in Chicago during the summer, check out my guide here .

Museums in Chicago

Art Institute of Chicago (world class art museum)

Field Museum (natural history museum)

Adler Planetarium (for space lovers)

Chicago History Museum (located near the free zoo)

Museum of Science and History (located on the grounds of the 1893 World Fair)

American Writers Museum (the only of its kind)

Are you a writer? Find the best places to write in Chicago .

Public Transportation in Chicago

The CTA has both rail and bus options, and you’ll be able to travel most of the city this way. You can also use the Divvy bikes found throughout the city to travel from one place to another.

Where to Stay in Chicago

Located just a few blocks away from Chicago Union Station, W Chicago is also right in the Loop, one of the best neighborhoods to stay in Chicago if you want to visit all the tourist attractions.

2. Denver, CO

Denver is another city that gained wealth thanks to the rail industry. Although it was once industrial, in recent years it turned into a tourist hot spot. The downtown area rebranded itself with a youthful, trendy vibe, and there is so much to do in the Mile High City!

Points of Interest in Denver

Union Station

The train station itself is an attraction in Denver, and probably my favorite in the US. It was restored to its former glory and then some, with comfy and trendy seating in the big hall where you can relax before checking in to wherever you’re staying the night. There are also restaurants, a café, ice cream parlor, bookstore and more!

Larimer Square

This historic square is a nice place to go shopping or eat out a restaurant. It’s especially cute at night with the lights!

I can’t suggest just one, because there are so many options! I went to Great Divide Brewing, which is by the hostel I stayed (see below), and Jagged Mountain Craft Brewery is right next to the hostel too. A popular one is Wynkoop Brewing Company, located across the street from the train station.

Commons Park

If you’re anything like me, what you’ll want most after a night on the train (besides to sleep on a real bed) is to stretch your legs and get fresh air. The best place in downtown Denver is probably the Commons Park area. Here you can walk along the South Platter River Trail and cross the river for some great restaurants and cafes to fuel up at.

Colorado State Capitol

A beautiful building, and you can also visit the inside for tours and exhibits about Colorado history.

Museums in Denver

American Museum of Western Art (paintings of the American West from 1800s to present)

History Colorado Center (interactive state history museum)

Public Transportation in Denver

Buses and trams are available in the downtown area. You can also use bike and scooter sharing services like Lift and Lime.

Where to Stay in Denver

Hostel Fish is the cheapest option within walking distance of the Denver Union Station. I really enjoyed the artsy interior as well as the fact that it had a kitchen, bar and common areas to chat with other guests. The train arrives before check in time, but I was able to safely store my bags at reception to explore the city.

If you’re not the hostel type of person, and want somewhere closer to the station, you can’t get closer than The Crawford Hotel . It’s located right in the station! If you have the budget for it, there’s no better place to stay.

3. Glenwood Springs, CO

I spent my childhood coming here, and while it has tons to do for kids, it also has a lot to do for adults too! From hiking to relaxing, it’s no wonder why Glenwood Springs is such a popular stop on the California Zephyr line—definitely one of the best towns to use a segment of your rail pass on!

Points of Interest in Glenwood Springs

Glenwood Caverns Adventure Park

This mountaintop theme park has something for everyone, with great mountain views, a zip line, alpine coaster and cave tours.

Hot Springs

Glenwood Hot Springs Pool is best for kids, as it’s more like a public pool, complete with slides, diving board and other fun pool activities. Parents can enjoy the spa.

Iron Mountains is the one I chose while stopping here on the California Zephyr. It’s a bit more for adults in that you can buy alcohol here, but it also has a pool where kids can play. The quiet zone is made up of many tiny pools, each with different temperatures. I’d recommend going in the evening to watch sunset here over the Colorado River.

The Yampah Spa is great if you really want to relax and be pampered. Take a mineral bath in the hot springs, get a massage/ spa treatment, or spend time relaxing in the vapor caves. After so many hours on the train, you will be so deserving of a few hours spent here!

I’d recommend doing the Scout Trail, which will take you to great views of both Glenwood Springs and the Glenwood Canyon.

For a shorter hike, head up the Doc Holliday’s grave at the Linwood Cemetery. You can do both in a loop, but I didn’t have time due to a train delay, cutting how much time I had on this stop.

Glenwood Springs, although being small, has a ton of diverse dining options. They’re mostly all located near the train station.

Museums in Glenwood Springs

The Doc Holliday Museum (a famous gunslinger who died in Glenwood Springs)

Frontier Historical Museum (a small museum on the local history)

Public Transportation in Glenwood Springs

None that I’m aware of, but it’s not needed. It’s a small town and very walkable!

Where to Stay in Glenwood Springs

I stayed at Starlight Lodge . It’s the most budget option I found that was within walking distance from the station. Good location, pleasant owners, and although a bit outdated, the room was really clean.

If you want something nicer and a bit closer to the station, just across the river from the station is Hotel Colorado . Nice if you want a spa treatment right in your hotel!

4. Green River, UT

I passed by Green River on my first trip aboard the California Zephyr, and I knew I wanted to stop on the way back. Not because it looked like there was a lot to do, but rather that there didn’t look like a lot to do.

I wanted to get off somewhere that was “middle of nowhere” because those places are often fascinating. Green River didn’t disappoint, and that’s why I think it’s one of the most underrated places to stop on the California Zephyr, and definitely worth one of your Rail Pass segments if you want to see some history and slow down.

Points of Interest in Green River

White Water Rafting

Green River is a starting point for white water rafting on the Green and Colorado rivers, so book ahead to get a trip! Here’s a 1-day trip I found with a roundtrip transportation from Green River included.

Largest Watermelon

It’s not a real watermelon, but a wooden one, and worth stopping for a picture. It’s located right next to the Powell Museum, so don’t forget to see it when you’re there!

A Pile of Big Rocks

It’s really just, well…a pile of big rocks. This sculpture is quite random, perhaps more so than the Largest Watermelon (since the town does have ties to melon farming), but it’s still kind of cool! It was fun posing with a rock sculpture pretty much in the middle of the desert.

Athena Mountain Bike Trail

You probably won’t have a mountain bike if you’re traveling by train, but you can walk here! If you do decide to do this, go either in the early morning when the sun isn’t too hot. And be prepared with enough energy, water, snacks and sun protection. It’s about 3 miles to get to one way, so be prepared for several hours (6 miles roundtrip to get to the trail, then 5.5 miles loop on the trail).  The trail isn’t spectacular, but if you’re not used to desert landscape like me, it’s an interesting walk!

I actually didn’t do the trail (was SO hot!) but I did enjoy the walk there. You pass by some farms, which is an odd contrast considering that you’re in the middle of a desert. It’s quite a secluded walk, so don’t push yourself past your limits, especially when you go in high noon during the summer like I did.

Oh, and use my favorite map app, Maps Me , because Google Maps isn’t much help when you’re off road.

Wander Main Street

I-70 runs next to Green River, so I suspect most people stop by here only on their way other nearby attractions, like Arches National Park. What I loved about arriving by train is that I wasn’t tempted to see the nearby famous points of interest. I was forced to stay in this “middle of nowhere” town, which made me see things others passing by probably didn’t. So take a walk and see what you can find in this desert town.

What I found interesting (and sad) was how many closed down motels, restaurants and gas stations were scattered through the town. I’d even say there was a closed business for every open business. Maybe if more people travel by train to this little desert town, we can help the town return to its former glory, and preserve its history?

Museums in Green River

John Wesley Powell River History Museum (a museum mostly on Powell’s expeditions of the Colorado River basin and also local history; I learned a lot!)

Public Transportation in Green River

None. Not even taxi services that I’m aware of. It’s a very small place though. As I’ll mention below, my motel was on the other side of town from the station, and a nice local lady gave me a ride when she saw me walking along the road! That’s the sort of place Green River is. Many people might not enjoy it, but as you can probably tell, I loved it.

Where to Stay in Green River

I stayed at the Motel 6 . While it was nice (clean room, I was allowed to check in early, and it had nice views), it was farther from the train station than I thought. But if you don’t mind walking about 30 minutes (remember to account for the desert heat) to the station, it’s a great location. It’s right across the street from the Powell Museum and next to the Tamarisk, which I thought was the best restaurant in town.

But if you don’t want to walk so far with your bags, Budget Inn is also a cheap option and closer to the station. Or for something nicer (I think the only hotel in town; the rest are motels) there is a new Holiday Inn near the station too.

5. Helper, UT

Helper is the stop after Green River, and they’re only about an hour apart. I found this town to be so charming, and exactly what you might think of a historic wild west town. It’s busier than Green River, but still a very cute, small town.

Points of Interest in Helper

Historic CONOCO Gas Station

Step back in time and check out this piece of history! It’s super well preserved and makes for a great photo op!

Helper River Walk

There’s a great little river walk running along Price River, and it’s the perfect place to stretch your legs after being on the train. Helper has a labyrinth made with local stones, and you’ll find it along the river walk.

Like with Green River, this a great place to wander along the town’s main street. You’ll find that it’s better preserved and livelier than the one in Green River. It’s definitely a better choice if you want to do some shopping or dining, as it has more and better options.

Museums in Helper

Western Mining and Railroad Museum (local history & especially interesting given that you’ll arrive by rail yourself!)

Public Transportation in Helper

Also none. But also very small, so needed.

The only option I found was at Castle Gate RV Park . It’s a bit out of town, but walkable from the train station. It’s a campsite/RV park, but they do have cabins available too. It’s a nice place to stay, since you won’t find many campsites near train stations elsewhere on the California Zephyr. (I checked; I had originally thought of bringing a tent with me on this train trip, but it’s not ideal without a car to drive to campsites).

6. Salt Lake City, UT

If you’re stopping here, I’d recommend stopping when you’re traveling east to west (Chicago to Emeryville). The train arrives at about midnight on the east to west route, but 3 a.m. going west to east.

I think midnight is a better time (you’re gambling on no delays, though), but neither time is ideal, so definitely get a hotel near the station (see below).

Points of Interest in Salt Lake City

There are several places you can hike from the city, with many different trailheads. For a shorter hike with great views, I think hiking up to Living Room is a pretty good option.

Temple Square

Salt Lake City was built by Mormons, and you can see its ties to the Mormon church at this plaza, which is owned by the church. You’ll find tours and exhibits here, so it’s worth visiting.

Great Salt Lake Tour

Since you won’t be able to drive to the Great Salt Lake (unless you rent a car), you can take a tour instead! This one was the best option I found.

Museums in Salt Lake City

Natural History Museum of Utah (earth science & Utah’s native cultures)

The Leonardo (science, technology & art museum)

Utah Museum of Contemporary Art (featuring both local & national artists)

Pioneer Memorial Museum (artifacts & information about Utah’s founders)

Church History Museum (learn about Mormon history)

Public Transportation in Salt Lake City

Lots of bus and even rail options with the UTA, depending on where you want to go.

Where to Stay in Salt Lake City

Residence Inn by Marriot has decent prices and is near the train station, so ideal for late-night arrivals. Front desk is 24-hours, so no worries with a late check-in, and the hotel also offers bike rentals (great for exploring the area), breakfast and has a pool. And the rooms have kitchens, so it’s a great place to stay if you want a break from eating out.

7. Truckee, CA

This is probably my personal favorite place to stop on the California Zephyr, and I probably wouldn’t have stopped here if it weren’t for the Rail Pass. I didn’t even realize it was an option (since it’s so small) until I read the entire California Zephyr schedule. Most people might get out at Reno to explore Lake Tahoe, but let me show you why Truckee is better. (Hint: nicer, closer and more beautiful!)

Points of Interest in Truckee

Donner Lake & Museum

If you’ve never heard of the infamous Donner party, you won’t forget about them once you do. Due to several fatal mistakes, this pioneer party heading west on the wagon trail met a terrifying end: half froze and starved to death, and the other half ate the dead.

This cannibalistic part of US history draws many visitors, and beyond that, it’s a beautiful place! At least it was in the summer, with lots of people on boats and swimming in the lake, camping and hiking.

The real draw of area, however, is the beautiful Lake Tahoe. It’s one of the deepest lakes in the world, and it’s massive. Take a free bus from Truckee to explore the lake. I’d recommend going to Kings Beach . The beaches there are sandy and nice, and there are several places to eat and get ice cream here. You can swim in the lake, and growing up swimming in Lake Michigan, I didn’t think the water near the shore was too cold. Some people did though, so be prepared.

I’d also recommend hiking a bit of the Lake Tahoe Rim Trail ! I did a bit of it to Picnic Rock , but do be aware that you’ll have to walk a bit along the side of a busy road to get there (bus won’t stop at trailhead, so get off at the first stop possible in Kings Beach). There is a trail leading to the trail, which you can find using Maps Me (I’d literally be lost without it haha), so you don’t have to walk along 267 the whole way up.

For a shorter hike, get off the bus at Crystal Bay (past Kings Beach) and walk up to the Historic Stateline Fire Lookout . Nice views of the lake and Crystal Bay, and beautiful pines.

Legacy Trail

For a walk closer to Truckee, the Legacy Trail, running along the Truckee River, was a nice place to stretch my legs for a bit before getting back on the train. Nothing too special, but a great place within walking distance of Truckee to get fresh air.

Historic Downtown Truckee

Walk along Donner Pass Road to find cute boutique shops and restaurants in the historic buildings.

Museums in Truckee

Truckee Railroad Museum

Possibly the smallest museum I’ve ever been to, since it’s just one old rail car, but it holds lots of information! I learned a lot about the history of the railroads in the area before the California Zephyr even existed, and it made me appreciate the journey even more.

If you stop at only one museum during a Rail Pass stop along the California Zephyr, this one, although maybe the smallest, just might the best! (Also, the volunteer running it was really helpful and nice.)

Old Jail Museum (a preserved 19 th century jailhouse)

Public Transportation in Truckee

Not only does it exist, but it’s free! The TART bus lines take you everywhere worth going nearby, including several spots along Lake Tahoe, two ski resorts and Donner Lake.

Where to Stay in Truckee

I stayed at Redlight in a dorm room, and I loved it. Lots of people backpacking the Pacific Crest Trail stayed there, and there’s a quirky bar on the ground floor. In the back, you’ll find a kitchen and common area that’s nice for relaxing.

If that doesn’t sound like something for you, Springhill Suites by Marriott is beautiful, with a pool and free breakfast, and it’s within walking distance of the train station too.

8. (Emeryville) San Francisco, CA

So, technically, the California Zephyr stops at Emeryville. However, it’s just a short ride over the bridge to San Francisco. There is actually an Amtrak bus that will transfer you to SF, and you can use one of your Rail Pass segments on this transfer. (But if you want to stop at a lot of places, you can also just pay for the bus to not waste a segment, as it’s only a few dollars.) Alternatively, you can take public transportation on your own or a ride sharing service (Lyft or Uber).

I don’t think I need to convince you much on visiting San Francisco. Perhaps the most famous place on this list of best places to stop on the California Zephyr, it also lives up to its hype.

Points of Interest in San Francisco

Golden Gate Bridge

Probably the most iconic landmark in San Francisco, and very worth visiting. Ride a bike or walk over it, and if your legs aren’t too tired yet, hike a bit at Marin Headlands on the other side of the bridge: great views!

Lands End Lookout

Such a beautiful place to watch the sunset! I highly recommend, and I hope you don’t get a foggy day!

I loved wandering this neighborhood, and it made me feel a bit like I was back in Asia. Grab a treat from Eastern Bakery, see the Dragon’s Gate and eat some Chinese food. You’ll find also lots of great street art and at the edge of Chinatown are my favorite places (City Lights Booksellers and Vesuvio Café: frequented by the Beat writers).

There are many piers in San Francisco, and many are worth visiting. Go to Pier 39 to see the sea lions and Pier 45 to see WWII ships and the Musée Mécanique (antique arcade games).

Museums in San Francisco

The Beat Museum (honoring writers of the Beat Generation)

Maritime Museum (local maritime history)

Exploratorium (science & art museum)

San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (seven floors of world-class exhibitions)

Public Transportation in San Francisco

So many options. Muni, BART and Golden Gate Transit. There are also bike and scooter rentals available throughout the city (like Lime, Lyft, Bird, etc.).

Where to Stay in San Francisco

Adelaide Hostel is where I stayed, and it’s great on a budget. I made several friends during breakfast time there. Even though most hostel/hostels don’t offer free breakfast during Covid, this was the only one I found that did. Although they weren’t allowed to make breakfast for you, you can make it yourself using the eggs, pancake mix, fruit and other ingredients they offered every morning.

For a non-hostel option, yet still affordable, try Axiom Hotel . It’s in a great location, right by a station that will take you to Emeryville’s train station.

Chicago to Emeryville Roundtrip Itinerary

My suggested round trip itinerary for the California Zephyr, including all my favorite places to stop:

Segment 1: Chicago to Denver

Segment 2: Denver to Green River

Segment 3: Green River to Salt Lake City

Segment 4: Salt Lake City to San Francisco

Segment 5: San Francisco to Truckee

Segment 6: Truckee to Helper

Segment 7: Helper to Glenwood Springs

Segment 8: Glenwood Springs to Chicago

Of course, feel free to spend however much time in each place as you’d like (example: spend 1-3 nights, depending on how fast you want to do this trip).

Emeryville to Chicago Roundtrip Itinerary  

And if you’re doing it reverse (i.e., starting in California), then your trip would look like this:

Segment 1: San Francisco to Truckee

Segment 2: Truckee to Helper

Segment 3: Helper to Glenwood Springs

Segment 4: Glenwood Springs to Chicago

Segment 5: Chicago to Denver

Segment 6: Denver to Green River

Segment 7: Green River to Salt Lake City

Segment 8: Salt Lake City to San Francisco

Alternatively, you can do the train line one way, picking and choosing which stops to get off at.

Final Verdict: My Favorite Places to Stop on the California Zephyr…

Best place for hiking.

Truckee, CA

Best “Middle of Nowhere” Desert Town

Green River, UT or Helper, UT

Best Place for Museums

Chicago, IL

Best Place for Brewery Hopping

Best place to relax.

Glenwood Springs, CO

Best Place to Spend the Most Time

San Francisco, CA

Additional FAQ

Is it possible to sleep in a hotel every night if i get off at all these stops.

Not really. You’ll have to spend roughly two nights sleeping on the California Zephyr train (since some of these segments are overnight journeys), but if you sprinkle in lots of hotel nights at these best places to stop, it won’t be so bad!

Coach seats are really big and have SO MUCH leg room, so it’s definitely more comfortable than sleeping on a plane or bus!

What should I bring on the California Zephyr?

Bring lots of drinks and snacks. If you’re upgrading you Rail Pass to a sleeper car, you’ll get meals included in that upgrade, but if you’re riding in coach, you’ll have to pay for the food. And it’s not cheap. And not too great either.

Also, especially if you’re riding coach, bring warm clothes and a blanket! A few of the cars I slept in were freezing (I traveled in the summer, so A/C was on), and a blanket would have made the night easier. If you have the space for it, also bring a pillow, or at least a neck pillow like this one.

For passing the time, bring games or books. I’d recommend bringing along audiobooks because you can listen to them while still being able to look at the scenery. If you don’t have Audible yet, now is the time to get it !

Read my guide on surviving the night on Amtrak trains for more info.

Is there an observation car on the California Zephyr?

Yes! And it’s super nice to have. Not only do the big windows give you great view, but it gives you a place to walk to and stretch your legs. It’s also a great place to meet people, and if you want to talk or make noise during quiet hours (after 10 p.m.), you can do that there.

Is there a bathroom on the California Zephyr train?

Yep! Several per each car. Because there are so many, I never had to wait in line. Some cars even have a dressing room where you can get changed too, which was so helpful if you’re riding coach and don’t have a private room.

Can I drink alcohol on the California Zephyr?

If you buy from the cafe car, yes. You can’t drink your own alcohol in coach, though.

How long does the California Zephyr take to ride on?

If you don’t get off at all (pretty brutal if you’re riding coach, which is why I recommend you hop off on some of the best stops on the line), the California Zephyr is about 51 hours one way. This assumes that there won’t be any delays. Which, if my experience was standard, there will be.

Are there lots delays on the California Zephyr?

You should assume that there will be delays. I had a delay on almost all 10 of my segments on Amtrak, but that’s mostly because there were wild fires that blocked other rail lines so there was more traffic on the Zephyr. However, since Amtrak doesn’t own the rail lines, freight trains get priority, so be prepared for stops while those trains pass.

Are there more places to stop on the California Zephyr?

Sure! These are just the stops I personally thought were the best on the California Zephyr, and I didn’t have anymore segments left to use. (I used the other 2 segments going to Washington, DC and Pittsburgh, PA on the Capital Limited line.)

Is there Wi-Fi on the California Zephyr?

No. And you won’t always have phone signal either. Make sure you download  audiobooks , music and things to watch. I believe I had signal at every stop on the California Zephyr, but there were usually hours and hours between the stations.

I didn’t get much work done on the California Zephyr, but I did write a lot since Word doesn’t require internet connection. (P.S., if you’re a writer who travels too, make sure to check out my resources for writers who travel !)

So, there you have it! All my expertise on the California Zephyr and the best places to stop along it if you have the Amtrak USA Rail Pass.

Are you thinking of riding the California Zephyr with the USA Rail Pass and looking for the best places to stop? Let me know if you have any other questions!

And comment below if you’ve been to any of these places to stop along the California Zephyr ! I’d love to know what you think of these spots!

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21 Comments

Wow, there are certainly a lot of great cities you can stop at! I would really enjoy travelling across the states on a train like this and seeing some of the places you’ve mentioned.

It’s not that popular of a way to explore the US, but I was pleasantly surprised by how much I loved it!

i have been wanting to do this train trip for some time now…. and after reading this blog, i’m even more inspired! i’d love to check out Helper, UT, and like you, was surprisingly wowed by Truckee, CA, when i stopped there on a visit to Lake Tahoe a few years back… so i’d love to visit again.

You should do it!! Even if you don’t get off a lot, the train ride itself is gorgeous. And yes, Truckee is such a cute town 🙂 The free buses to Lake Tahoe were just the icing on the cake 😉

This is such a detailed post, Natalie. I didn’t realise that there were so many beautiful places that one could hop off during this train trip. I haven’t been to that side of the world as of yet, so I am definitely saving this for later!

If you decide to do a train trip in the US, I’m pretty sure the California Zephyr is the most scenic one 🙂 I hope you can make it to this side of the world sometime soon! I’m certainly itching to explore your side of the world 😉

Okay so basically one of my dreams trips – I’m obsessed with the idea of rail travel.

Lately I’ve gotten so into it! I think it’s my favorite mode of transportation now 🙂

Wow, this looks like such a beautiful place to explore!! I would love to visit when Covid ends!

Great post! I love travelling through the US on the Amtrak trains. A few years ago I spent a month in the US just travelling by train, saw so many places and met some great people. It’s such a great way to travel!

Wow that sounds amazing! I met lots of people on the trains too, and I think that’s what makes traveling by train so great 🙂

This is an awesome post! I always forget that America has trains too? The idea of the California Zephyr sounds so fun – especially if you’re trying to get away from Wifi? Sometimes the idea of that actually sounds pretty amazing.

It really was!

What a great idea for a vacation! I love traveling by train!

It’s a great way to travel if you have the time 🙂

Had always thought renting a car was the best and kind of the only way to explore the West. This shatters that notion and was a joy to read!

So did I! I’m really glad I gave it a try 🙂

In the hostels, would a senior citizen be acceptable to stay or is it only for youth?

It depends on the specific hostel’s rules, but most don’t have an age limit.

From which stop to another do you have to sleep on the train?

Oh gosh, that’s a hard one to answer. Because the trains are sometimes delayed by hours, it can affect what time of night you’ll reach certain stops. It also depends which direction you’re going in. Going from Chicago, I slept at some point going from Chicago to Denver (pretty much all through Nebraska), then slept a night in a hotel in Denver, then got off at Glenwood Springs and spent a night there, then slept on the train somewhere around Utah (we were meant to arrive in Salt Lake City just before midnight but got there around 3 am I think) and arrived in Emeryville/San Francisco in the afternoon the next day.

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Videos & Photos Photos Photo Galleries California Zephyr: Amtrak’s legendary passenger train

California Zephyr: Amtrak’s legendary passenger train

| Last updated on November 12, 2021

This train’s scenic Chicago-California route runs through two mountain ranges

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California Zephyr introduction

The line used by today’s California Zephyr includes the last direct North American transcontinental rail link to be built. It wasn’t completed until 1934, when the Denver & Rio Grande Western finished a 40-mile section east of Glenwood Springs, Colo. The “Dotsero cutoff” connected tracks through the 6.2-mile Moffat Tunnel, completed six years earlier, with the railroad’s original Denver-Salt Lake City route. The combination eliminated 175 circuitous miles through Colorado Springs, Pueblo, and the Royal Gorge of the Colorado River.

In 1939, Rio Grande teamed up with Western Pacific and Chicago, Burlington & Quincy to launch the Chicago-San Francisco Exposition Flyer, named for the Golden Gate Exposition of that year. It took almost a day longer to make the trip than the City of San Francisco streamliner, operated on a two-night, one-day schedule by the Union Pacific and its partners.

The faster City missed both Denver and Salt Lake City on the route of the first transcontinental railroad. It also passed through California’s mountains in darkness because it was originally timed for business travel when rail was the only viable option. Following World War II, the Burlington recognized the popularity of dome cars and other stainless-steel equipment built by the Budd Co., the carbuilder that created the railroad’s first Zephyr trainset the same year the Dotsero cutoff was completed. Seeing a chance to create a scenery-friendly schedule, the three railroads commissioned Budd to build six sets of sleeping, coach, dining, and lounge cars that became the distinctive California Zephyr , which replaced the Exposition Flyer in 1949.

Amtrak takeover

By 1970, heavy federal investment in the Interstate Highway System and aviation technology had strained many railroads’ ability to privately fund passenger trains. The Zephyr made its last run in March of that year when the Western Pacific dropped out of the partnership. The Burlington chose to stay in the game, however, by providing a “California Service” connection from its Chicago-Omaha, Neb., day train to the Rio Grande’s renamed, but now triweekly, Rio Grande Zephyr . The train connected at Ogden, Utah, with the City of San Francisco, which by then offered daytime views of the mountains west of Reno, Nev., but no through cars were exchanged at Ogden.

This is the route Amtrak sought to duplicate when it took over U.S. intercity passenger service on May 1, 1971, but the Rio Grande decided it didn’t want to run a daily train, so it declined to join Amtrak and its Zephyr continued to run between Denver and Ogden. Amtrak was forced to choose Union Pacific’s Overland Route; it named the train the San Francisco Zephyr . The arrangement lasted until the Rio Grande agreed to join Amtrak in April 1983; that’s when the California Zephyr name reappeared, ironically, at the same time its legacy domes and observation car made their last runs.

California Zephyr travel tips

Today’s train offers spacious coach seating and private roomettes, bedrooms, and family rooms; sleeper passengers’ meals are included in the price of the fare and are served in the dining car. Train reservations can be made by calling the 800-872-7245 or at www.amtrak.com.

All travelers are welcome in the Sightseer Lounge , which also has a snack bar on the lower level. The glass-topped, big-windowed car doesn’t permit forward views or the intimacy with the outside landscape that the original Zephyr ’s dome cars provided, but it offers a spacious onboard environment with both comfortable lounge chairs and booths.

Every seat in the lounge is usually taken when the train climbs out of or descends into Denver and is usually busy between the Mile High City and Glenwood Springs, Colo., as it snakes through dozens of tunnels and a series of Colorado River canyons.

Scenic highlights continue farther west as the train passes the red rocks of Ruby Canyon and over Soldier Summit east of Provo, Utah. Highlights between Reno, Nev., and Sacramento, Calif., on the transcontinental railroad’s route, include Donner Lake and a brief stop at Truckee, Calif., bypassed on the California Zephyr ’s original Western Pacific tracks through the Feather River Canyon.

The train offers opportunities for passengers to stretch their legs on the three-day, two-night journey. Most of the 33 intermediate stops are brief, but travelers can usually get some fresh air on station platforms at Ottumwa, Iowa; Omaha and Lincoln in Nebraska; Denver, Glenwood Springs, and Grand Junction in Colorado; Salt Lake City, Utah; Reno, Nev.; and Sacramento, Calif.

The Amtrak app can provide accurate train status, but there is no onboard Wi-Fi and cellphone service is spotty. Amtrak no longer provides printed or downloadable timetables. The Rail Passengers Association offers one on its website; the latest version shows the train running only three days a week , but it has been operating daily on this schedule since June 2021.

Similarly, Amtrak hasn’t supplied a route guide in recent years, but a map showing principal points of interest along the way is available from a guide produced in 2004 .

Demand to ride the California Zephyr is high all year, Sellouts in both sleeping cars and coaches in Colorado and Illinois are frequent, so it’s best to make reservations as far in advance as possible.

4 thoughts on “ California Zephyr: Amtrak’s legendary passenger train ”

“This train’s scenic Chicago-California route runs through two mountain ranges“

It runs through 3 mountain ranges, does it not? Rocky, Wasatch & Sierra Nevada?

“Amtrak no longer provides printed or downloadable timetables.” Also noted that Amtrak no longer provides route maps or guides.

Admittedly printed costs money. But not including relevant planning information on their website makes it sound as though Amtrak doesn’t want more than commuter business.

Minor correction: the Royal Gorge of the Arkansas River not the Colorado River. Also the California Zephyr in the 1950’s was only 7 hours longer the the Union Pacific City of San Francisco.

I have ridden the California Zephyr three time: twice from Denver to Emeryville and once from Emeryville to Denver. The best trip was in the winter. The snow scenes were spectacular.

Having ridden over most of Amtrak’s system, this is the best of Amtrak’s long-distance routes. But it is costly. In 2020 the Zephyr had an operating loss of $75.2 million and an average operating subsidy per passenger of $303.84. In 2019 the operating loss was $56.6 million with an average operating subsidy per passenger of $137.78.

As is true for most of Amtrak’s long-distance trains, passengers on the Zephyr should build lots of wiggle room into their arrival and departure planning. The on time percentages at the end points for the train were 54.2% in 2020 and 44.4% in 2019.

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