Rocket cyclist logo.

Bicycle Dropouts: What You Need To Know

What is a bike dropout.

A bike dropout is the part of a bicycle frame or fork where the bicycle’s wheel is attached.

Definition and function of a bike dropout

Bike dropouts  are a key component that forms part of the bike frame. It basically serves as slots where the wheels are placed. They typically house the axle of the wheel, providing a receiver for the axle to secure wheels in place and align them correctly.

trek sliding dropouts

Types of bike dropouts:

  • Horizontal Dropouts:  These are classic dropouts design that allows the wheel to be moved back and forth to adjust the bike’s chain tension.
  • Vertical Dropouts:  This design allows for easier wheel removal and installation, as they simply allow the wheel to drop down and out.
  • Through Axle:  A modern design that allows the axle to pass directly through the dropout and frame, providing increased stiffness and durability.

Importance of bike dropouts in bicycle design

In the world of bicycle design,  bike dropouts  play an important role in how the bicycle rides and handles. They affect the bike’s wheelbase, the distance between the wheels, as well as its chain tension. Having a well-designed dropout can help improve the overall performance and reliability of the bike.

In conclusion, bike dropouts might not be the most glamorous part of your bike, but they play a crucial part in how your bike functions. Without them, we wouldn’t be able to securely attach the wheels to our bikes.

Types of Bike Dropouts

A bike dropout is the part of a bicycle frame where the front and rear wheels attach. Depending on how a cyclist intends to use their bike, there are four main types of dropouts to consider:

Horizontal dropouts

Horizontal dropouts  were a common sight on older bikes and are still used by some manufacturers today. The advantages of this style are that it offers the cyclist flexibility in terms of gear ratio adjustments and chain tensioning. They’re perfect for single-speed or fixed gear conversions.

Vertical dropouts

The  vertical dropouts  are the most common style in modern road, mountain, and hybrid bikes. They allow for quick release of the wheel and ensure that the wheel is correctly aligned each time it’s installed. One possible downside is that they don’t allow for chain tension adjustment.

Sliding dropouts

Sliding dropouts  are a type of adjustable dropout found on some bikes, offering the ability to adjust chain tension by moving the position of the rear axle back or forward. This makes them suitable for fixed gear, single speed and internally geared hub systems.

Adjustable dropouts

An adjustment freedom is the main feature for the  adjustable dropouts  as they allow changing geometry and fit of the bike, so you can fine-tune your ride based on personal preferences and riding conditions.

To sum up, the type of bike dropouts you choose depends on your cycling needs. Whether it is for road racing, mountain biking, freestyle or urban commuting, there’s a suitable dropout style out there for everyone.

Pros and Cons of Different Bike Dropout Types

A close up of a bicycle chain and chainring.

Bike dropouts play a crucial role in handling and performance depending on the type of ride, whether it be road biking, mountain biking, or any cycling style. Their chief purpose is to hold the wheel in place and maintain alignment.

There are different types of dropouts to cater to the cyclists’ diverse needs like horizontal, vertical, sliding, and adjustable. The following comparisons will guide you in picking the apt one based on your needs.

Advantages and disadvantages of horizontal dropouts

Horizontal Dropouts , from the golden age of cycling, are loved by fixie and single-speed riders. The most evident benefit is the freedom to adjust the chain’s tension. However, there can be difficulty aligning the wheel correctly, and inadequate skewer pressure can cause the wheel to move under heavy load.

• Pros: Adjustability for chain tension, ideal for single speed or fixed gear bikes .

• Cons: Difficult to align the wheel, possible wheel slippage.

Advantages and disadvantages of vertical dropouts

Modern bicycles predominantly feature  Vertical Dropouts . They allow easy wheel removal and replacement without worries about wheel alignment. It’s a great convenience for riders with derailleurs, but these dropouts do not permit any adjustability in wheelbase or chain tension.

• Pros: Easy wheel removal and installation, ensures accurate wheel alignment.

• Cons: Lack of adjustability in wheelbase or chain tension.

Advantages and disadvantages of sliding dropouts

Sliding Dropouts  are a perfect blend of the vertical and horizontal types. They offer easy wheel installation, alignment assurance, and chain tension adjustability. But, they are heavier and more complex in design, which may require professional assistance for adjustments or replacements.

• Pros: Chain tension adjustability, accurate wheel alignment.

• Cons: Heavier, complex design.

Advantages and disadvantages of adjustable dropouts

Adjustable Dropouts  are a highly flexible choice, offering both axle positioning and geometric adjustments. This ability to tune the bike’s characteristics is invaluable for experimentative cyclists, but additional parts can add to its weight and complexity.

• Pros: Highly adjustable, can change the bike’s geometry.

• Cons: Can be heavy and complex.

Choosing the right type of bike dropout ultimately comes down to your specific biking requirements and style preference. Understanding these advantages and disadvantages can help you make an informed decision.

Factors to Consider When Choosing a Bike Dropout

A close up of a blue bicycle with gears.

When procuring a bike dropout, several components demand careful consideration to ensure optimal performance. Here are a few important features to contemplate before making your selection:

Frame compatibility

The bike dropout you choose must be compatible with your bike frame. This is critical because the dropout is designed to fit a specific frame – the connection point for vital components such as your rear wheel, brake, and derailleur. Cross-checking the manufactures’ recommendations can aid in ensuring proper fit.

Wheel size and axle spacing

Wheel size and axle spacing  are additional factors that affect dropout choice. Larger wheels may require wider dropouts to accommodate the increased size, while different axle types (quick release, thru-axle, etc.) demand corresponding dropout designs. Consider the size and type of your wheel for an appropriate fit.

Single speed vs. multi-speed compatibility

The kind of drivetrain your bike has can also influence your dropout choice. For bikes with a single-speed setting, a dropout that allows tensioning the chain, like a horizontal or sliding dropout, is beneficial. In contrast, bikes with multi-speed or gear settings typically require vertical dropouts, which contend well with the tension provided by the derailleur.

To sum up, take into account the following aspects while selecting the bike dropout:

  • Compatibility with your bike frame
  • Wheel size and axle type
  • Compatibility with your bike’s speed settings

By considering these factors, you ensure that the bike dropout you choose contributes positively to your bike’s performance and longevity.

Popular Bike Dropout Brands and Models

A close up of an orange bicycle with gears.

If you are an enthusiast cyclist or a professional mountain biker, the term ‘dropout’ significantly impacts your cycling experience . With the increasing number of brands and models in bike manufacturing, finding a reliable bike dropout could be overwhelming. We present a quick list of notable dropout brands and bicycle frames renowned for their trustworthy dropout systems:

Notable bike dropout brands in the market

•  Paragon Machine Works:  Known for their premium quality, Paragon Machine Works offer a range of versatile and durable bike dropouts. Their precision parts for cycling enthusiasts and bike builders alike have consistently exhibited top-tier performance.

•  Shimano:  A brand that needs no introduction, Shimano also produces bike dropout systems. Their commitment to quality is evident in their meticulously crafted dropouts that ensure the bike gears shift smoothly and provide a seamless riding experience.

•  Surly:  Surly is another reliable name when it comes to bike dropout systems. Its robust designs ensure the wheel is held precisely where it should be, guaranteeing a safe and efficient ride.

Top bike frames with reliable dropouts

•  Cervelo R5:  The Cervelo R5 frame is admired for its lightweight design and superior dropout system that offers precise gear alignments and smooth transitions.

•  Giant TCR:  Known for its excellent stiffness-to-weight ratio, the Giant TCR frame has a reliable dropout system that firmly holds the wheel in place for safe and efficient biking .

•  Trek Madone:  The Trek Madone frames are well-regarded due to their aero-design and high-quality dropout systems that ensure optimal wheel alignment and smooth gear shifting .

Remember, different dropout designs can significantly affect the handling, gear shifting, and overall performance of the bicycle. So, ensure you are selecting a bike or a dropout system that is most suitable for your biking needs and preferences.

Bike Dropout Maintenance and Repair

A man working on a bicycle in a shop.

Proper bike dropout maintenance and repair are crucial for ensuring your bike’s longevity and performance. This section will cover two main aspects: cleaning and lubricating the dropouts and replacing a damaged dropout.

Cleaning and Lubricating Bike Dropouts

Regularly cleaning and lubricating bike dropouts  is essential to maintain the bike’s overall performance. Here’s a simple step-by-step process:

  • Start by removing the rear wheel.
  • Use a clean, soft cloth to wipe away any dirt or grime from the dropouts.
  • Apply a quality bike lubricant on the dropout and the quick-release mechanism.
  • Attach the rear wheel back and ensure it’s secure.

Remember, proper lubrication prevents rust and ensures smooth operation of the quick-release mechanism.

Replacing a Damaged Dropout

Replacing a damaged dropout  can be more complex and sometimes requires professional help. However, if you feel comfortable doing it yourself, follow these steps:

  • Begin by removing the rear wheel and the derailleur.
  • Take out the screws holding the dropout in place.
  • Install a new dropout and secure it with screws.
  • Attach the rear derailleur and wheel back onto the bike.

In conclusion, maintaining your bike dropout will help ensure a smoother ride and prolong the life of your bike. However, when replacement becomes necessary, don’t hesitate to seek professional help if needed. Regular inspection will prevent small dropout issues from developing into significant problems.

Upgrades and Accessories for Bike Dropouts

Stepping up your cycling game requires not just a good bike, but also the right accessories and upgrades. Among the most overlooked parts of a bicycle, yet carrying a significant impact on bike safety and performance, are the bike dropouts. Here, we explore some upgrades and accessories that can enhance your bike dropouts.

Dropout Alternatives like Thru-Axles and Bolt-On Systems

Thru-axles  and  bolt-on systems  are major alternatives to the traditional dropouts. Thru-axles enhance stability and control by securely connecting the wheel to the bicycle frame. These are especially common in mountain bikes.

Bolt-on systems, meanwhile, provide an added level of security. These systems do not offer quick-release features, making them a solid choice for cyclists concerned about wheel-theft.

Upgrading from a quick-release skewer to a thru-axle or bolt-on system can enhance both performance and security.

Dropout Adapters and Conversion Kits for Different Axle Standards

Dropout adapters  and  conversion kits  can assist in aligning your bicycle to different axle standards . These are especially useful when upgrading a bicycle’s wheelset or moving components between bikes with varying axle dimensions.

These accessories can make a significant difference in how your bike performs and fits you, which can be a game-changer for cycling enthusiasts. Choosing the right one requires an understanding of your riding style and the conditions in which you ride.

Investing in dropout upgrades and accessories is a move towards not just better bike performance but also a safer and more enjoyable cycling experience.

As we come towards the end of this engaging exploration of dropouts in 2023, let’s shift our gears and discuss the importance of choosing the right bike dropout for your cycling needs.

Choosing the right bike dropout for your needs

Selecting the right bike dropout is a crucial factor to consider, especially if you’re into cycling, whether you’re a professional cyclist or a biking enthusiast. The type of bike dropout not only impacts the bike’s performance but also influences the comfort, durability, and versatility of your cycling experience . Some dropouts provide better wheel alignment, while others provide scope for derailleur installation or easy wheel removal.

Let’s consider a few key aspects to be mindful of:

  • Fixed or Replaceable Dropouts : Fixed dropouts are integral to the bike frame, offering durability and stiffness, whereas replaceable dropouts let you switch between single-speed and geared setups.
  • Vertical or Horizontal Dropouts : The vertical dropouts support quick and smooth wheel removal and fitting, perfect for road bikes. However, horizontal dropouts provide improved wheel adjustment and suit single-speed or fixed gear bikes.
  • Through-Axle or Quick-Release : The through-axle systems offer increased rigidity and strength, fitting for mountain bikes or disc brakes. On the other hand, quick-release systems are lighter and easier to use, apt for road or city bikes.

Choosing the right dropout requires considering your bike’s usage, desired performance, and specific wheel-setup preferences. In conclusion, the world of bike dropouts is vast, and investing some time in understanding their intricacies can significantly enhance your cycling experience.

About The Author

trek sliding dropouts

Vinson Lozano

Related posts.

A man with a bike on a set of stairs.

Gravel Bike as a Commuter? Here’s What You Need to Know

A bike leaning against a river.

Can Gravel Bikes Go on Trails? Yes, it does!

Leave a comment cancel reply.

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

trek sliding dropouts

  • Search forums
  • XC / cross country

Trek Rig sliding dropout issues

  • Thread starter RDH
  • Start date Apr 17, 2012

RDH

G'day Not sure if this belongs here or in the tech section but I figure I will more likely find a Rig rider around these parts so here goes... I bought a 2011 Trek Rig ~1 year ago and have forever had problems with it. Specifically: 1) Chain loses tension 2) Back wheel falls out of the frame Re: chain tension - This is something I can live with. It is by no means a deal-breaker, just an inconvenience really. However, I feel that the chain tension issues are intrinsically linked to... Back wheel falls out of frame - This concerns me greatly. As you can all imagine, having a major part of your bike - perhaps the most major of major parts - fail so significantly is pretty fkn concerning. The first couple of times it happened, I chalked it up to user error as I had just replaced the stock Bontrager wheels with some crankies and the cobalts have those split qr levers. It has happened many, many times since though and I am now convinced there is a design fault that is, if not causing it, then at least contributing significantly. I took the bike to my LBS Trek dealer and they 'warrantied' it through Trek which has not really fixed the problem unfortunately. So I did some internet trawling for others in my shoes and came across a handful of threads on MTBR which describe my experience quite nicely: http://forums.mtbr.com/trek/trek-rig-rear-wheel-falling-out-diagnosis-solution-757794.html http://forums.mtbr.com/trek/2011-2012-trek-fisher-rig-748924.html http://forums.mtbr.com/singlespeed/2011-2012-trek-fisher-rig-748922.html http://forums.mtbr.com/trek/2012-trek-rig-warrantee-outcome-754111.html Of the solutions suggested, I have tried: - Trek warranty - as stated earlier, not satisfactory - Stronger bolts - I went to Bunnings and a specialty metal shop to get some high strength/tensile (apparently there is a difference) replacements but neither really had what I needed - the trek bolts are threaded all the way up to the hex-cup and all the high-strength bolts at the metal store were only threaded for about 20mm of the length of the bolt. The metal shop also said that custom jobs would run $40+ for each bolt. So at least there is that, if it comes to that. I have not tried: - Filing the qr cup down so it fits flush with the frame. Not sure this is actually a problem for me, though. If money wasn't so tight at the moment, I would sell it and upgrade to something better. Or just throw the fkn thing off the side of a mountain and be done with it for good. But, alas, I am poor now and for the foreseeable future so I need some more less-expensive solutions. And re: solutions, I am not specifically asking for new solutions here - although I am more than willing to provide some pictures and/or more detailed information for anyone who is curious as the specific nature of my problem - as the MTBR forums pretty much cover it. No, I am hoping to connect with other Rig riders who are/were in the same boat as me and have either a tried and tested solution or some other strategy to deal with the problem, e.g: Were you able to locate some stronger bolts? If so where? Did you have a satisfactory outcome with Trek? If so, what was it? Have you filed the qr cup down? If so, did this make a difference? Anyway, that's about it. Thanks for reading. Ryan  

mtb101

Likes Bikes and Dirt

Refreshinglygood.

mtb101 said: would be interested to see a picture might be able to give you some advice. oh I see, looking a mtbr pics. Click to expand...
Refreshinglygood said: As far as the wheel falling out, i would say that has more to do with the wheel than it does with the dropout. For ssing, your better of using a bolt on axle. You will get a more rigid rear end. Again, depending on your weight, a quick release axle actually increases the chance of cracking the rear triangle. Click to expand...

trek sliding dropouts

mtb101 said: have a look at these pictures ...... fail - not good enough, no safe. View attachment 232488 View attachment 232489 Click to expand...

leftieant

Yep, better (longer) QR or bolt up the way to go. Essentially you need more clamping force. As a quick-ish solution, maybe try one of the BBB track axles. They are similar to a QR, but instead you use a hex tool to tighten. Not sure if they're available in 135mm, but have used them on SS road conversions. No gaurantee of success, but may be worth an attempt.  

Did the bike have this issue with the original wheel and QR? I am guessing that it may be that the Crank Brother's (and XT, like in the linked thread) had a head that is larger than the bontrager QR and is causing many of the problems. Also, the set screws need to be loctited. As you wind them back and forward, the loctite wears off. You need to reapply. Every Single speed I ever owned had minor issues with the chain tensioning system.  

Big JD

Wheel size expert

change axle those split QR are useless, change to a 10mm bolt through axle like Superstar, Hadley, Azonic and others. It must be a through bolt not just a bolt that screws into the hub (like Kings). QR on sliding dropouts is not ideal - you need to increase the clamping area - bigger nuts (cant believe i said that). I found in the past that standard Shimano QR (cam action) are considerably stiffer. Trek may not warranty if you have changed wheelsets but should have looked after you with the original wheels - shame on you trek  

i wonder if you might need to take off any paint/grease/contaminates on the sliders. Even DT Swiss ratchet steel ones are better.  

John Desmarchelier said: i wonder if you might need to take off any paint/grease/contaminates on . Click to expand...

G'day again folks Thanks for the responses so far. To address some of them directly: (sorry, don't know how do that quote bubble thingy for multiple posts so this may get a little confusing) bolt wise for the slider, I would be increasing the diameter of the bolt using high tensile type - Increase the bolt diameter? not sure what you mean here. Surely that would mean the bolt would not fit in the current threaded hole(s) in the frame. Unless you are referring to the larger of the bolts in the 2 MTBR pics that were posted - if you are, then these are 6mm bolts and there is a 6ish mm hold in the sliding dropout and a cupon the obverse of the slider in which the complimentary nut for the 6mm bolt sits. I guess what I am saying is that I am stuck with the original sizes. On the plus side, I was able to locate some high tensile bolts and have since replaced all of the orignals. If your abig rider you will have to adjust the tension more often than a smaller rider. I had to adjust my sliding drop out bikes on average every 5 or more rides I had more or less come to terms with having to tension the chain more often than not. And yes, I am a large rider - 100+kg and with a background in power-based sports. For ssing, your better of using a bolt on axle. You will get a more rigid rear end. Again, depending on your weight, a quick release axle actually increases the chance of cracking the rear triangle. Can you please define 'bolt on axle' for me? Are you referring to 135/142x12? Or QRs with hex 'nuts'? have a look at these pictures ...... fail - not good enough, no safe. and Yep. I see the problem. If your going to continue to use a QR then you will have to get a longer QR axle. You will then need to get some spacers that fit the drop out depth. I actually bit the bullet and filed down one edge of the Bontrager QR lever cup so that it fits flush with the frame. I know that this lessens the clamping surface area but it was a case of less clamping area vs crooked axles. I went with the surface area. Also, I am quite surprise how easily the edge filed off. Disturbing. As a quick-ish solution, maybe try one of the BBB track axles. They are similar to a QR, but instead you use a hex tool to tighten I was once informed that a QR lever can actually generate more clamping force than one of these hex-based track axles. Although I was actually on the cusp of buying some bolt up axles when I decided to take the bike back to Trek. From what I could soo on chain, they are not too exy so maybe it could be a good investment. QR on sliding dropouts is not ideal - you need to increase the clamping area - bigger nuts (cant believe i said that). Heh heh i bigger nuts... But seriously, I am not sure that increasing the clamping area is possible to the lack of space for the QR cups now. Did the bike have this issue with the original wheel and QR? I am guessing that it may be that the Crank Brother's (and XT, like in the linked thread) had a head that is larger than the bontrager QR and is causing many of the problems. Actually no the bike did not have any problems with the original Bontragers. Although I switched them out for the Cobalts quite quickly. And now that I thin aboot it, the first such incident of this problem happened on my first ride on the Crankies - just inside the gate at Stromlo. Went arse up in front of everyone. Not at all embarrassing... But it seems that the constant failures of the whole thing have wreaked havoc on the rear Cobalt and it it suffering (either that or my so called 'service' has broken it). In any case, I am now back to running the original Bontrager at the rear. Cobalt on the front though. Also, the set screws need to be loctited Yes, I went and purchased some today and put it on this evening. Any advice on what strength to use? I chose medium (blue) but have been advised that high (red) is ok to use. Thoughts? i wonder if you might need to take off any paint/grease/contaminates on the sliders. and That's a good point. I took a file to the surface of my sliding dropout frames. I took the paint of, and then roughed up the surface a little. I then painted some locktite on the surface to make the interface between the sliding droput and the frame a little stickier. It made a differnce, but it wasn't a permanant fix. Hmm, loctite the frame surface. Didn't do that. Rats. But as for the frame paint, I have tightened the bolts so much in so many different positions that not only is there little to no paint left there, there are grooves and permanent impressions where I have probably overtightened. I am half expecting to punch through the gap one day. Although I have employed some washers to increase the clamping surface in that respect. So much for keeping the bike cherry so I can sell it... I had a realisation today though, and a good one at that - this whole ordeal has taught me a very valuable lesson: scrutinise the design of any bike you're looking to purchase to within an inch of is life before putting money down. Oh well. Ok, that's it for now. Thanks again for the suggestions. Maybe I should test them all out by riding every event at the ACT champs on the weekend - DS and DH on an XL-frame 29er singlespeed? What could possibly go wrong? Thanks Ryan  

don't file paint off or "paint" loctite on the frame. That's a stupid suggestion. Blue and red loctites are thread locks, green is bearing retainer, there are other for high temperature and high pressure applications too that are mostly only needed if you are rebuilding a Porsche engine or an aeroplane. Don't use red, it is pretty much glue. I painted surface will have better grip than raw metal, and taking tools to your frame is a good way to void your warranty.  

C Dunlop said: don't file paint off or "paint" loctite on the frame. That's a stupid suggestion. Blue and red loctites are thread locks, green is bearing retainer, there are other for high temperature and high pressure applications too that are mostly only needed if you are rebuilding a Porsche engine or an aeroplane. Don't use red, it is pretty much glue. I painted surface will have better grip than raw metal, and taking tools to your frame is a good way to void your warranty. Click to expand...
RDH said: For ssing, your better of using a bolt on axle. You will get a more rigid rear end. Again, depending on your weight, a quick release axle actually increases the chance of cracking the rear triangle. Can you please define 'bolt on axle' for me? Are you referring to 135/142x12? Or QRs with hex 'nuts'? Click to expand...

Looking at the pic linked above, does the dropout pivot or slide? That is, is there only the one bolt holding it, or does it have one just out of shot that it pivots about? If - and this is an if - it pivots, then lengthening the chain line a bit should mean that the dropout moves further away from the frame - giving you more clamping area. Once your chain line is set, maybe look at some sort of spacer / washer on the bolt (two nuts on the bolt outside of the frame, locked together, or a piece of alloy tube) to stop it from sliding, and pushing the QR away from the frame. If I've got it wrong about the dropout, post up a pic. A couple of people have suggested the RWS or Hope bolt up axles as well - these will give you a lot more clamping force, but may not solve the chainline slipping problem. Al..  

99_FGT said: Looking at the pic linked above, does the dropout pivot or slide? That is, is there only the one bolt holding it, or does it have one just out of shot that it pivots about? Click to expand...

So is there enough clearance on the dropouts (the pic linked above showed the single bolt one, which I am assuming is the brake side) for the QR to clamp properly when it is pivoted further back? And on the drive side? Will solving the moving sliding dropout issue solve the axle clamping problem? Mine has horizontal dropouts, and with the QR would slide under load. I've used a chainring bolt to space mine before, but ordered a set of "surly monkey nuts" and that has solved the problem. Al..  

rearviewmirror

rearviewmirror

Refreshinglygood said: One of the biggest problems with single speed specific frames is that sliding drop outs, nor eccentric BB's actually sit still permamnantl;y. You will always have to re adjust the tension of the chain. SSers are put under a great deal of torque strain, sliders tend to slide. I have never met a sliding slider that actually keeps tension consistent. Click to expand...

trek sliding dropouts

rearviewmirror said: Not true, Paragon sliders do not move, ever. Cheap OEM sliders are shit, Paragon or Paragon-Style first perfected by Moots do not move, ever. Not just barfing interwebs garbage either, I own and ride an SS with Paragon sliders, they have never moved. View attachment 233611 Click to expand...
  • This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more…

SORT CONTENT BY LOCATION

CLICK TO DRILL DOWN BY COUNTRY/PROVINCE

Your browser is ancient! Upgrade to a different browser or install Google Chrome Frame to experience this site.

Inspiration

  • Bikepacking 101
  • Join/Support

Bikepacking.com

  • View Latest/All
  • Bikepacking Videos
  • Your Stories
  • Rider's Lens
  • Field Trips

Popular Tags

  • #bikerafting
  • #Tour-Divide
  • #family-bikepacking
  • #winter-bikepacking
  • #1Q5V (1 Question 5 Voices)

Gear/Reviews

  • Bikepacking Bags
  • Camping Gear
  • Accessories
  • #Editors-Dozen (Our Favorite Gear)
  • #Gear-of-the-Year
  • #MYOBG (DIY)
  • #Decade-in-Review (Best of All Time)

The Gear Index

Latest indexes.

  • Mini Panniers
  • Saddlebags & Top Openers
  • Cargo Cages & Anything Bags
  • Gravel Bars
  • Drop Bar 29ers

Bikepacking Bikes

  • Rigid & Plus Bikes
  • Drop-bar & Gravel
  • Full Suspension

Rigs & Roundups

  • Rider & Rig
  • Race/Event Rig Roundups
  • Worthy Builds
  • Handbuilt Bikes
  • #29+ (29-plus)
  • #vintage-mountain-bikes
  • #cargo-bikes
  • Readers' Rigs (Dispatch)
  • New Bikes (Dispatch)

Plan Your Trip

  • Bikepacking Guides
  • Bikepacking Food
  • Gear & Pack Lists
  • Bike Photography

Essential Reading

  • Leave No Trace (for Bikepackers)
  • Guide To Bikepacking Bags
  • Bikepacking Gear That Lasts
  • #Bikepacking-Awards
  • Power Of An Overnighter
  • Advice For New Bikepackers
  • Our Favorite Bikepacking Routes
  •     

Where to Begin

We have over 300 original and curated bikepacking routes in our global network spanning nearly 50 countries.

trek sliding dropouts

Start at our worldwide routes map to dig into our detailed guides with GPS maps and inspiring photography.

By Location

  • The United States
  • Latin America
  • Middle East

Singletrack Bikepacking Icon

By Length (days)

  • Overnighters & S24O
  • Weekend Routes (2-4)
  • Week-long Routes (5-10)
  • Odyssey Routes (11-30)
  • "Freakouts" (31+)

Local Overnighters

The Local Overnighters Project is a unified effort to document and map one-night bikepacking routes all over the world—by locals, in their own backyards.

The Bikepacking Journal is our biannual printed publication. Each issue features a collection of inspiring writing and beautiful photography. Find details on the three most recent issues below, join the Bikepacking Collective to get it in the mail (anywhere in the world), or click here to find a collection of selected stories in digital format.

Bikepacking Story

The special edition 10th issue of The Bikepacking Journal is one you won’t want to miss! It features 25% more pages with extra stories, bonus art and maps, and much more...

Bikepacking Story

Issue 09 takes readers on trips through time—one to the early days of bicycles—and offers several reminders to be grateful for supportive friends and family, and strangers we meet along the way...

Bikepacking Journal

For Issue 08, we invited several contributors to return and pick up where earlier trips and ideas left off and also feature a handful of first-timers whose perspectives we’ve long been eager to share...

bikepacking.com - Bikepacking Gear and Routes

Trek 1120 Review: Footsteps of Giants

trek sliding dropouts

The Trek 1120 follows in the same 29+ tracks that many bikepacking-specific rigs forged ahead of it, but this bike cuts its own trail with an innovative front rack, a thoughtfully designed rear harness system, and surprising trail prowess… all at a lighter weight than we expected. We’ve been quietly testing one over the last few months; here’s the full review.

trek sliding dropouts

With additional photos and insight by Ryan Sigsbey

With multiple companies creating bikepacking-specific bikes around the 29+ platform, it’s as if bikepacking has an official tire size. Bear in mind, big wagon wheels aren’t for everyone, and there are plenty of 27.5+ bikepacking rigs too, but it’s no surprise that this legacy continues to thrive… for plenty of reasons we’ve already covered within this site. It all started with the Krampus in 2012, and then came the Surly ECR , which was sort of the first big-tired purpose built bikepacking bike. It was only a matter of time before others created variations on the theme: The Chumba Ursa 29+ , the Carver Gnarvester , Salsa’s Deadwood and Woodsmoke , the Bombtrack Beyond ADV , and the Why Wayward . There are a few others as well, and probably more to come.

Trek 1120 review, Racks

  • Frame/Fork: Aluminum/Carbon
  • Seatpost: 31.6mm
  • Bottom Bracket: PressFit 92
  • Hub specs: 148 x 12mm (R); 110x15mm (F)
  • Max tire: 29×3″
  • Weight (L w/racks): 29.4 lbs (13.3 kg)
  • Price: $2,499

Following suit, the 1120 was a natural progression for Trek. The Wisconsin based titan has a longstanding history of making bikes in the adventure travel and touring category. First the 520 and 720 touring bikes became classics back in the early 80s. Then Trek found success with its more recent gravel and dirt-drop tourer, the Trek 920 . It only made sense to add a couple hundred to the naming schema for a big-tired bikepacking rig. And this they did with a bang, creating a 29+ rig that is quite a departure from all the rest, even their own Stache .

Before we dig in, let me clarify the nature of this review. I’ve had this bike since August, but an injury/surgery/recovery kept me off of it for a couple of months. Then I got about a dozen rides in with it and had a bit of a relapse… from which I am still recovering. So, I enlisted the help of Ryan Sigsbey , a friend, photographer, bikepacker, and creator of the Trans-WNC . Ryan took it for a week or so, gave it a few rides and took it on a bikepacking trip to add his perspective. As such, this isn’t a long term review. Instead you’ll find an in depth analysis and a couple different perspectives regarding our experiences using it, comparisons, technical details… and, as usual, plenty of photos (don’t miss the new carousel galleries).

Trek 1120 Review, Bikepacking

Newfangled Racks

There’s a lot to talk about with this bike, so let’s start with the 1120’s two most prominent features, the bright orange tangles of metal at its fore and aft. These proprietary aluminum racks provide a very stable platform for strapping all sorts of gear. They also eliminate the need for a standard seat pack and handlebar roll by offering innovative means of attaching equipment and drybags to the bike. In general, they allow the bike to carry more stuff than with a standard bikepacking setup.

The Front ‘Cradle’ Rack

Load capacity 7.03kg/15.5 lbs | Weight 441g The Trek 1120’s unique fork-mounted front rack is designed to cradle a large dry bag or an assortment of other cylindrical objects — think tents, fishing rod tubes, sleeping mats, etc. This places the load just a scoach lower than a conventional handlebar roll, which, in theory, lowers the center of gravity and increases stability. The rack is incredibly user-friendly, very stable, and does a great job preventing bag and cable interference, which is its biggest innovation. It also eliminates the need for handlebar straps, which frees up valuable real estate on the bars. All the same, the chunky aluminum rack adds about 441 grams that wouldn’t be there with a handlebar mounted bag.

Trek 1120 review, front Rack

The Trek 1120 front rack is heftier and sturdier feeling than I expected. Constructed from heavy duty aluminum tubing welded to a thick mounting plate, the rack attaches to the Carbon Adventure Fork with four beefy hex bolts in a unique trapezoidal pattern. When attached it feels rock solid. After initial use and inspection, I would certainly trust it on a big trip. One of its most interesting features are the protruding columns on the underside and back of the rack (these are also present on the rear rack). These rounded pegs serve as strap guides that work really well at keeping the straps from sliding and the load in place.

Ryan and I stumbled upon what we think is the ideal system for this rack. The main bag, as shown, is the large dry bag from a Salsa Anything Cradle Kit. It’s a pretty big bag that can hold up to 15 liters, according to Salsa. The Revelate Salty Roll would work equally as well. To cinch it down we used two 32” Voile Straps which provided a very secure and tight fit. Honestly, this is probably the most stable feeling system I’ve ever tried on the front of a bike. That being said, the options really are endless with this rack. I could even see wrapping up a Hyperlite day pack and using that as the roll, or a combination of items such as a tent and another roll bag.

Ryan: The front rack is very straightforward, and with the use of a dry bag and a couple Voile straps, lashing down your load couldn’t get any easier. There are some nice details on the rack to keep the straps right where you want them. The rack is pretty beefy, and maybe a little overkill for most loads, however it provides a very solid platform.

The Carbon Adventure Fork

Rake 51mm | Axle-to-crown 510mm The suspension corrected fork is called the Trek 1120 Adventure HCM Carbon Fork. It is made up of a carbon fork and crown with a bonded alloy steerer tube. The fork features 110mm BOOST spacing as well as triple accessory bosses on either side and rack mounts just above the dropout.
 A lot of people have been asking about this fork… specifically whether it will be available to purchase on its own. Right now the ‘Trek Carbon Adventure Fork’ is the only carbon fork being made with triple bottle mounts and 110mm BOOST spacing. Apparently the fork is available through Trek dealers as a crash replacement. But, it’s not going to be marketed, meaning that it is not likely there will be too much stock available at any given moment. The suggested retail prices are $399.99 for the fork and $131.99 for the rack. Specs are as follows: rake is 51mm, axle-to-crown is 510mm. Part numbers are 561208 for the fork and 560997 for the front rack.

Trek 1120 review, Carbon Adventure Fork

As far as performance, the fork is stiff as expected. It’s not as bump absorbent as the noodly MTB carbon forks of old or many of the modern gravel forks. However, I would expect this from an expedition worthy MTB fork. And, it does soak up some of the chatter.

One thing Trek missed in their design is the addition of dynamo wire routing. However, the fork has two tiny drain holes, one on each side, that could perhaps be drilled out to allow routing through the fork with a top-cap charger such as the Sinewave Reactor. Of course, this would void the warranty, and I have no idea if it is definitely possible. Otherwise, the carbon fork has all the right features, including triple mount bosses, rack mounts above the dropout, and there is even a threaded hole at the back of the fork crown to mount a fender.

Trek 1120 review, Rear Rack

Rear Rack and Harness System

Load Capacity 12Kg/25lbs | Weight 695g (Rack), 271g (per harness) The rear rack is quite interesting as well. Unlike most rear carriers, it only mounts to the upper portion of the 1120’s seat stays via four bolts, two welded bolt mounts that are threaded perpendicular to the stays and two long bolts that screw directly into mounts on the stays. Overall the rack feels solid and generally secure. One might assume that the upper bolt mounts would be subject to stress, but it seems like the longer bolts do more of the work. Two long bolts came loose during Ryan’s bikepack, but we think they might not have been torqued properly to begin with. He was able to easily tighten the screws and everything stayed secure.

Trek 1120 review, Rear Rack

The 1120 comes with two drybag harnesses designed in tandem with the rear rack. Each one secures to the rack with two wide velcro straps and four compression webbing straps that also serve to batten down the load. The harnesses seem very well made from what appears to be hypalon with a plastic hard backer and barstitched webbing with metal compression buckles. Each fits a dry bag ranging from 5 to 10 liters in volume (8L recommended). The setup is similar to having two small rear panniers — albeit far more taut and secure — and allows a bit more packing space than that of a traditional seat pack. This concept was developed to clear the space between the seat and the top of the rack, facilitating the use of a dropper seat post… or for smaller riders who simply can’t fit a large bag between the saddle and the top of a 29+ wheel/tire. It also lowers the weight that would normally be carried in a large cantilevered seat pack. When the real estate atop the rack is included, this system can double the load potential of a more “traditional” seatpack setup. However, with the rack and harnesses weighing in at 1237g/2.7lbs, it more than doubles the weight of a seat pack such as the Revelate Terrapin (539 grams).

Trek 1120 review, Rear Rack

As mentioned, the rear rack also provides an angled upper platform that’s useful for strapping down cylindrical items such as a tent or sleeping pad, without interfering with the 1120’s 125mm Bontranger dropper seatpost. Ryan lashed on a 5 liter Sea To Summit Big River Dry Bag containing spare warm clothes and such, and I tried it with my Big Agnes Fly Creek UL1 .

Ryan: The rear harness system was a little finicky at first and wasn’t nearly as easy as the front. The harnesses velcro to the sides of the rack to keep them temporarily in place. Then, once you stuff a dry bag in the harness, you have to loop the webbing around the rack and hook the buckle in. Do this to the other 3 straps and then your all set. It takes a little bit to get used to, but after unloading and reloading a few times I got the hang of it. I was using 6 and 8 liter dry bags and they seemed to fit pretty well. Anything bigger might be a squeeze. There’s extra space to attach a tent, sleeping pad or an additional dry bag to the top of the rack as well.

Trek 1120 Review, Bikepacking

While Out Bikepacking

Although I wasn’t able to take the 1120 out on a multi-day bikepacking trip (for reasons mentioned earlier), I did set it up in various configurations and even rode it partially loaded a couple of times. The first thing that stood out to me is how tight, solid and stable the luggage systems are. The front rack is clutch. There would be little love lost if I could use it in lieu of all other handlebar harnesses or rolls from here on out. It’s nice to not worry about handlebar straps, or interference with cables and other such accessories. That said, with the proprietary mounts, this rack isn’t an option with a suspension fork, or any other fork for that matter. It’s also pretty specific to roll-style bags or cylindrical items that can’t be opened on the go.

The rear rack and harness system is also quite sturdy. It is probably one of the most movement/rattle/wag free systems I’ve used, the closest being the Porcelain Rocket Mr. Fusion . It’s clear that Trek’s engineers did their homework and focussed on creating a system that moves the weight down, while still maintaining the bike’s agility, maneuverability, and dexterity on tight and twisty singletrack.

Ryan: Since the racks are mounted much lower on the bike than a normal seat pack or front roll bag it really brings the center of gravity down and provides a more stable ride. That coupled with the dropper post means you can really lean into turns and keep up speed. These features also help to keep the bike rubber side down on steep descents. In addition, the solid rear rack eliminates any tail wag that can sometimes be experienced with standard seat bags. Generally that isn’t a big deal, but with this setup it’s removed altogether.

Trek 1120 review

Trek 1120 vs Surly ECR

When I saw early photos of the 1120, I immediately wondered whether it has a similar geometry and feel to the Surly ECR, the original 29+ bikepacking beast. The answer is yes, to some extent… but it’s also quite different. Comparing the large ECR with the 19.5” 1120, the ECR is shorter in both directions. The 1120’s stack height and reach are a little bigger — 642/451mm respectively — than the ECR at 633/420. But, the Trek is also steeper overall with a seat tube angle of 73.5° and the head tube at 70.3°, whereas the ECR’s angles are 72.5 and 70°. Minor differences, but I was generally happy that the seat tube angle is steeper on the 1120. This, in effect, lengthens the 1120. So even with a 21mm shorter chainstay (425mm when the wheel is slid forward in the Stranglehold dropouts), at 112.7cm, the Trek’s overall wheelbase is still 1.6cm longer than that of the ECR. Otherwise, they have matching effective top tube lengths, and the BB drop on the 1120 is 5mm higher than the ECR’s at 80mm. This is a welcome difference, as the ECR is generally limited to 3” tires due its unusually low BB.

Honestly, I thought the 1120 felt similar to the ECR as far as its stance. However, it does seem a bit more nimble and spritely on the trail… probably owed to its lighter weight (approximately 2-3 pounds lighter, with racks) and shorter chainstay (and that was at the long setting for the dropout).

Trek 1120 vs The Stache

The trek 1120 as a trail bike.

Trek bills the 1120 as a touring bike. But judging by its the dropper seat post, short chainstay, and hydro brakes, they also want it to be able to double as a trail bike. Pondering the Trek 1120 as a dedicated trail bike will probably not be relevant to a lot of folks. If you can’t imagine slinging a rigid bike around on your favorite trails, then that’s that. However, a lot of people are looking for one bike to do it all, and the 1120 will likely be tasked as such. I could even envision some folks swapping the fork for a suspension fork until a big bikepacking trip is in order.

Trek 1120 review, bikepacking

When considering 1120 as a quiver killer, the main thing that it has going for it is its relatively steep seat tube, low BB, big cushy tires, and of course, the short chainstay. As mentioned, at 425mm it’s only a hair longer than that of the Stache. However, the relatively steep head tube doesn’t exactly match. I personally would have preferred it a little slacker than 70°. That said, even with the Stranglehold dropout in the back position, the bike felt surprisingly stable during the few occasions I took it rack-free down local descents, such as the Black Mountain Trail and Ridgeline. The 1120 felt generally comfortable and capable for a rigid bike, which usually means slowing things down anyways. I don’t think this is a do-it-all bike for mountain bikers who have a discerning palate when it comes to trail geometry, but it’s certainly capable. It’s also worth noting that if you were planning on swapping a suspension fork when not in bikepacking mode, you could theoretically employ a Cane Creek Angleset to make that HTA a little slacker.

As far as the frame material, the Trek 1120 frame is welded from Trek’s own Alpha Platinum Aluminum. As Skyler found with the Kona Big Honzo , it’s hard to pinpoint the difference between aluminum and steel when there are 3” tires separating the frame from the bumps. The bike is stiff. And it’s also very light. The combination of these two traits makes it feel pretty responsive for a 29+ bike.

One thing I’ve always hated about aluminum is that ‘tink’ sound that randomly happens when a seatpost or something else is loose. Steel is far more dull and less obtrusive, and carbon just sounds like something is creaking. Aluminum can kind of be unnerving, IMO. I noticed the tink a couple of times on the 1120. Not sure exactly where it was coming from, but it went away after a while. With aluminum, it always helps to keep bolts and fittings greased and tight.

Trek 1120 review

Ryan: As a newcomer to the plus tire world, I was amazed at how the tires absorb much of the small trail chatter. Cruising over small roots and rocks was a breeze and as long as I kept up momentum, the bike felt as if it would roll over most anything.

The more upright position, rigid fork and backswept handlebars are certainly features that lean more towards an off-road adventure bike than a trail slaying ninja like it’s bigger brother, the Stache. The bike does have a more nimble feel than I expected and handled a smorgasbord of terrain with a fair amount of ease.

The 20mm longer chainstays [while in the back position as we kept it] and the almost 2 degree steepened head tube angle in comparison to the Stache give the bike a much more stable feel, one that also provides more comfort on longer days in the saddle.

Trek 1120 Review, Bikepacking

A few other frame highlights include a tapered head tube, internal derailleur and dropper post routing, and Trek’s own Stranglehold dropouts which allows the chain stay length to be fine tuned from 525-540mm. According to Trek, this also means that you could run a compatible 12 x 142 Rohloff hub.

The Trek 1120’s build, as expected, has a selection of Bontranger components. However, Trek made some nice choices in the bike’s bombproof drivetrain featuring mostly Shimano SLX components with a wide-range 11-46 11spd cassette paired with a RaceFace 30t chainring. This provides a granny gear with about 19.9 gear inches for loaded travel even with the voluminous 29×3″ Chupacabra tires.

There were a couple components I didn’t like. First off the Bontrager Crivitz handlebars… Unlike a lot of folks, I am just not a comfort/sweep bar convert. Even if I were, at 690mm, these bars aren’t wide enough. I am also not sold on the Sun Ringle Rims/Chupacabra combo. Both are fine while riding. While they came set up tubeless, I broke the seal when testing the new Wolf Tooth tire lever tool. It was not easy to reset the bead, to say the least. That leads me to think the tolerance isn’t quite tight enough on the rim, or the Chupa is off. If anyone has any thoughts on this, please leave a comment.

The spec also might be a little confusing to some. On one hand, with an innovative rack system, sweep bars, distance-oriented geometry, and loads of mounts, this bike is without a doubt a dirt-road touring machine that on the outset screams for big adventure in far off places. However, I would argue that the out of the box components don’t speak the same language. The dropper post, 28-spoke wheels, PF bottom bracket, and hydraulic brakes are odd choices for such endeavors. The latter is not much of a concern these days (especially for weeks or month long trips), and the other two can be remedied (if the PF BB is a concern, check out Wheels’ threaded options ). On the flipside, with a short chainstay, hydro brakes, and a dropper post, the 1120 has several ingredients that make it look like a trail bike. But, the steep head tube angle and comfort handlebars don’t quite seal the deal. Nevertheless, despite the 70° headtube, I was pleasantly surprised how well the 1120 did when unloaded on the trail. So in essence, in some ways, the parts match the bike, and in others they don’t.

Here is the full build list.

  • Front Hub Bontrager sealed bearing, alloy axle, Boost110
  • Rear Hub Bontrager alloy, Boost148
  • Rims SUNringle Duroc 50 SL 28-hole
  • Tires Bontrager Chupacabra, Tubeless Ready, Inner Strength sidewalls, aramid bead, 29×3.00″
  • Shifters Shimano SLX M7000, 11 speed
  • Rear derailleur Shimano SLX M7000, Shadow Plus
  • Crank Race Face Aeffect, 30T Direct Mount Narrow Wide
  • Bottom bracket PF92
  • Cassette Shimano SLX M7000, 11-46, 11 speed
  • Chain Shimano HG-601
  • Saddle Bontrager Montrose Comp
  • Seatpost Bontrager Drop Line 125, internal routing, 31.6mm (15.5: Drop Line 100)
  • Handlebar Bontrager Crivitz, 31.8mm
  • Grips Bontrager Race Lite, lock-on
  • Stem Bontrager Elite, 31.8mm, 7 degree, w/computer & light mounts
  • Headset Integrated, cartridge bearing, sealed, 1-1/8” top, 1.5” bottom
  • Brakes SRAM Level T hydraulic disc

Trek 1120 review, bikepacking

  • The front rack and fork are unparallelled and offer several major advantages over typical handlebar mounted bags. Plus the fork is quite nice with two sets of triple bosses.
  • With racks, this size large Trek 1120 — set up tubeless — weighs 29.4lbs… incredible for a big-footed bike with two chunky, well built racks.
  • A well conceived geometry leaning more toward distance dirt tourer.
  • Good choice of drivetrain components for bikepacking and dirt touring.
  • Rear rack and harness system are a nice way to add a little more volume compared to a typical seat pack… all while slightly lowering the center of gravity. And it’s rock solid.
  • The PressFit bottom bracket will likely be one of the biggest gripes about this bike. But, as mentioned in the Norco Search XR review, there are ways around this being a risky (or squeaky) affair.
  • Playing the devil’s advocate, the aluminum frame will likely be the second con. While it’s not as vibration dampening and repairable as steel, it’s certainly lightweight.
  • The frame triangle doesn’t quite jive with size large universal fit frame bags. The best bet is a custom bag if you want a frame pack.
  • I would prefer a rigid seatpost and a price closer to $2k. But, considering you get two racks, the harnesses, and don’t necessarily need any bikepacking bags, it’s actually not a bad deal.
  • If it were up to me, the front-end would be a little slacker.
  • Size Tested Large (19.5″)
  • Weight (as tested with tacks) 29.41lbs (13.34kg)
  • Rider Height/Weight 6’0″/170lbs (1.83m/77kg)
  • Place of Manufacture Taiwan
  • Price $2499.00
  • Manufacturer’s Details Trek

Ryan: The Trek 1120 is a great bike for off-road excursions and anywhere you could use a little extra float, think sandy desert arroyos or loose trails. It’s comfortable, stable and provides a solid platform for strapping gear and a low center of gravity to keep you in control. I’m not sure this is the do-all bike that Trek states on the website, however it does provide a very stable off road touring option that can take you off the beaten path without having to invest in a plethora of specific bikepacking bags.

As Ryan mentioned, I’m not sold on the idea that this is a perfect do-all bike. Although Trek doesn’t necessarily claim it as such, they certainly based the build kit and spec around the idea that it’s both a dirt-road expedition bike and a modern trail bike. But, I’m afraid this approach makes the 1120 fall short at the extreme definition of each. That being said, with a few minor tweaks the 1120 can be adjusted to serve either purpose.

Ultimately, Trek’s rack systems are very smart and well executed. This is what will sell this bike. The front rack and fork is spot on. And as some riders can’t quite get their pack list down to the standard kit, or others need bigger kits or space for more water, or smaller riders need an alternative packing option, the 1120’s harness system and rear rack provides a very innovative, functional and solid solution.

When I started testing this bike the first thing that came to mind was The Baja Divide… or other such long-distance, sandy, water-starved bikepacking routes. For such trips 29+ tires are the perfect choice. And having all the gear you need on the two racks frees up five bottle mounts for water storage. The Trek 1120 begs for such pursuits. Out of the four bikes I currently have at my disposal, if I were to head out on the Baja Divide tomorrow, I’d happily swap the handlebars, saddle and seatpost, and set out with the 1120.

FILED IN (CATEGORIES & TAGS)

Rigid & plus bike reviews.

Please keep the conversation civil, constructive, and inclusive, or your comment will be removed.

Rad Companies that Support Bikepacking

7mesh

You need to be logged in to use these features. Click here to login , or start an account if you’re not yet a member of the Bikepacking Collective…

Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner

  • Forum Listing
  • Marketplace
  • Advanced Search

Fat bikes with sliding dropouts?

  • Add to quote

What brands/models have sliding dropouts, other than the obvious, Salsa and Surly? I also know about the Trek Farley, because I have one. (I converted it to SS and my girlfriend decided she likes it, so I need to buy/build something else.) Don't bother with small, custom brands because this needs to be a fairly budget-minded build (and I prefer used). Oh, I forgot about Kona (Woo? but they are never available used and cheap). So... Salsa (multiple) Surly (multiple) Trek - Farley Kona - Woo  

desertwheelsltd

Rad mayor and sergeant (well sergeant isn't true fat bike but apparently will run 27.5x4)  

Good call; I wasn't sure about RSD. 4" tires are all the wider I usually ride, anyway.  

Guy.Ford

Giant.  

Plus bike... Jamis Dragonslayer (26+, so 3" tires)  

nitrousjunky

Salsa Mukluk, Pivot Les Fat, Kona WoZo, Kona Woo, Wyatt Maverick, and Trek Farley.  

BansheeRune

Mayor V4 and for a mid-fat, Sergeant V3.  

9:zero:7 - Slider (although they aren't made anymore)  

Fatback - Rhino  

My KHS 4 Season 1000 has sliding drop outs.  

RickBullottaPA

Why not just pick the best overall bike and a put a chain tensioner on it?  

I don't like tensioners. You're right in that it would make the search easier, but I'd rather a frame with sliding dropouts.  

Trek Farley Stranglehold Dropout. It is rock solid.  

Yep, I already have a Farley.  

majack

Carver Ti O`beast has sliding drops  

rth009

Ventana El Gordo. Ive been on one since April 2015 and love it. I think they still make a 170 rear version, which may be ok for you since you only want to run 4" tires.  

  • ?            
  • 15.4M posts
  • 515.5K members

Top Contributors this Month

Sparticus

Trek Bicycle Santa Clarita | Trek Bicycle Santa Clarita

  • Store address
  • 26625 Bouquet Canyon Rd
  • Santa Clarita, California, 91350  United States
  • Get directions

Google reviews

We're here for you.

Welcome to Trek

Trek Bicycle Santa Clarita is your destination for the latest products from Trek and Bontrager, service and tune-ups for bikes of any brand, and a great place to reserve a rental bike for your next two-wheeled adventure. We’re lucky to be near some awesome places to ride, like Tapia Canyon, Golden Valley Ranch, and the Trek Santa Clarita Bike Park. Our store is also proud to be the only shop in the world that’s attached to a mountain bike Suspension Lab where you can watch Trek engineers in action. Whatever your experience level and however you like to ride, we welcome you to stop by our bike shop, meet the team, and see what we have to offer. We can’t wait to ride with you!

  • — the Trek Santa Clarita team

Ask us about

Trade-in, trade up.

Trade in your old Trek bike with Red Barn Refresh and get in-store credit toward the purchase of a new one.

Ride now, pay later

Trek Financing powered by Citizens Pay lets you buy what you need, when you need it. Spread your payments over time with convenient, stress-free plans starting at 0% APR.

Drop it off today. Pick it up tomorrow.

We offer 24-hour service turnaround on bikes of any brand (excluding certain e-bike models). Our fast, friendly service team will have you rolling again in no time.

What is an electric bike?

Check out our electric bike buyer's guide to learn about the benefits of e-bikes, how to choose the right one for your riding style, and the best maintenance tips and tricks.

The best e-bike for you

Not sure which e-bike is right for you? Plug your ideal terrain and pedal assist preferences into our handy tool to find your perfect fit.

Trek e-bike collection

Amplify your pedaling power with electric bikes for city, mountain, and road riding.

Bike repair and service made simple Regular bicycle maintenance is key to keeping your trusty steed running smoothly ride after ride. That's why we offer 24-hour service turnaround on bikes of any brand* — no appointment needed. Stop by today and our expert in-store technicians will have your ride rolling like new in no time at all. *Excludes certain e-bike models. Call or visit your local retailer for more information. Here’s how we’ll do it:

We want to know about your concerns, learn about your riding habits, and understand your goals. That way, we can provide exactly what you need to get the most out of your bike.

One of our service advisors will put your bike in the stand and run it through our professional inspection process. They’ll describe what they’re noticing and address any concerns.

From there, we'll discuss how we can get your bike back up to speed with a service package, on-the-spot adjustments, or replacement parts. We’ll also create an itemized receipt to make sure you’re comfortable with repair costs before we get to work.

Get to fixin’

Leave your bike with us, and we'll do the rest! You'll receive an email and/or text when your repairs have been completed, and we'll be sure to give you a call if anything pops up along the way. Plus, if our turnaround time exceeds 24 hours, we'll set you up with a complimentary demo bike.

Our service packages

Want to learn more about what a bike tune-up includes? Explore our different service packages below.

  • Find out about Suspension Service

Everyday you fight your sliding doors. You don't have to. It's that simple.

Call 1-800-491-5654 Serving The San Francisco Bay Area

Stop Fighting Your Sliding Doors!

A1 On Track is your best choice when you need a specialist for repair or replacement of your sliding doors. We fix and have fixed more sliding doors than anyone.

Our promise to you is that we are:

  • Polite and Professional - Highly trained staff.
  • Punctual - Our appointments are scheduled with a one hour window.
  • Prepared - Our mobile service vans carry a full range of replacement parts. Most jobs are completed in a single visit.
  • Best guarentees in the industry - We stand behind our work.

We provide cost effective solutions for eliminating your sliding door problems. We have been serving the San Francisco Bay area for over 18 years.

In addition to sliding doors we install and repair secruity doors, swinging screen doors, tub and shower doors, pet doors, pocket doors, accordion doors, and sliding screens.

For more information about our products please click here.

<More Information>

For a free consultation call now

Serving the San Francisco Bay Area

A1 On Track Sliding Door Repair and Installation 1550 Dell Avenue Campbell, CA 95008 Phone: 1-800-491-5654 E-mail: [email protected]

Shop in-store for even more deals!

Shop in store for even more deals we can't advertise!

Bike Service

Mountain Bike Suspension Service

Mountain Bike Suspension Service

Trade In Your Bike

Trade in your bike

  • Base Layers
  • Mountain Bike Shorts
  • Bibs, Tights + Knickers
  • Mountain Bike Shoes

SAFETY GEAR

  • Adult Helmets
  • Youth Helmets
  • Road Helmets
  • Casual Wear
  • Road Bike Shorts
  • Bibs, Tights & Knickers
  • Road Bike Shoes
  • Accessories/Parts

Safety Gear

  • Women's Helmets
  • Road Bike Helmets
  • Mountain Bike Helmets

WHEELS & TIRES

  • Road Wheels
  • Mountain Bike Wheels
  • Mountain Bike Tires
  • Wheels Accessories and Parts
  • Derailleurs
  • Chains & Cassettes
  • Cranks and Chainrings
  • Bottom Brackets
  • Cables and Housing
  • Power Meters

BRAKES & PEDALS

  • Clipless Pedals
  • Flat Pedals
  • Mountain Bike Brake Sets
  • Mountain Bike Brake Pads
  • Road Bike Brakes and Pads
  • All Brakes/Levers/Pads

Forks & Cockpit

  • Grips and Bar Tape
  • Rigid Forks
  • Suspension Forks

Accessories

  • Car Rack Accessories
  • Electronics
  • Front Lights
  • Tail Lights
  • Locks/Security
  • Media/Resources
  • Bicycle Mounted Racks
  • Pumps/Inflation
  • Tools/Maintenance
  • Trailers/Strollers
  • Trainers/Rollers
  • Travel/Storage
  • Water Bottles & Cages

Brand Guides

Bike buyer's guides, gear guides, new bike releases, summit bicycles online (855) 245-3663 [email protected] email, burlingame (650) 343-8483 [email protected] email, summit outfitters (408) 878-3252 [email protected] email, los gatos (408) 399-9142 [email protected] email, san jose (408) 264-2453 [email protected] email, palo alto (650) 304-0035 [email protected] email, summit bicycles mobile we'll come to you schedule mobile service today, (855) bike-one - for online orders and rental inquiries.

  • Account Account
  • Subtotal : $ 0.00 Checkout Cart

Availability

  • In Stock 104
  • Mountain (124)
  • Comfort (6)
  • Fitness (25)
  • Hybrid (21)
  • Commuter/Urban (22)
  • Children's Bikes (19)
  • Not Designated 1
  • 15.5-inch 1
  • 21.5-inch 2
  • Show More Sizes
  • Medium/Large 86
  • X-Large 119
  • XX-Large 25
  • Show Fewer Sizes
  • Up to $10 3
  • $200 to $499.99 21
  • $500 to $749.99 19
  • $750 to $999.99 15
  • $1000 to $1999.99 37
  • $2000 to $3499.99 43
  • $3500 to $5999.99 72
  • $6000 to $100000 42
  • On Sale 100
  • & up 59
  • & up 78
  • & up 86
  • & up 87
  • & up 91

Trek Bicycles

  • Bicycling Catalog

Shop Trek Bikes

  • Shop All Trek Bikes
  • Trek Mountain Bikes
  • Trek Road Bikes
  • Trek Electric Bikes
  • Trek City Bikes
  • Trek Kids Bikes

Trek Bikes Buyer Guides

  • All Trek Bikes Guide
  • Trek FX fitness Bikes Guide
  • 2022 Trek Rail Guide
  • 2022 Trek Checkpoint Guide
  • 2022 Trek E-Caliber Guide

Trek is one of the biggest players in the cycling industry. As leaders in technology and innovation, Trek is able to provide high-quality bikes for riders at every level and in every style. Whether you are just starting out riding road , mountain, or commuter bikes, Trek has options for everyone to match their goals and abilities. Take a look at our huge selection of Trek bikes for sale and find a new ride today.

Trek Emonda SL Frameset

: Alert : More

Memberships & Passes

Community is so much more than membership.

It’s about doing something together. From climbing partners to group fitness & yoga classes, at our gyms, every interaction is an opportunity to connect.

Membership Benefits

Unlimited climbing

Access to ALL locations

Free climbing clinics

Not-to-be-missed events

Free guest passes

Discounts on workshops

Unlimited yoga classes

Discounts on climbing classes

Unlimited fitness classes

Discounts on gear and apparel

IMAGES

  1. What is Trek's Horizontal Sliding Dropout?

    trek sliding dropouts

  2. Trek MTB Horizontal Sliding Dropout Kit

    trek sliding dropouts

  3. Trek CX Horizontal Sliding Dropout Kit

    trek sliding dropouts

  4. Fisher CX Sliding Dropouts and Hangers

    trek sliding dropouts

  5. Setting up sliding dropouts : bikewrench

    trek sliding dropouts

  6. Trek MTB Horizontal Sliding Dropout Kit

    trek sliding dropouts

VIDEO

  1. Star Trek Sliding Door and Turbolift Sound FX Movie Versions

COMMENTS

  1. Trek CX/Gravel Horizontal Sliding Dropout Kit

    Trek CX/Gravel Horizontal Sliding Dropout Kit. Be the first to write a review! $73.99. Model 547959. Retailer prices may vary. Original equipment replacement rear derailleur hanger kit. Compare. Color / Black. Select a color.

  2. How To: Adjust Horizontal Sliding Dropout

    From a gear bike to a single-speed or stable riding to quick handling, Trek's Horizontal Sliding Dropout provides a fast and easy way for you to convert your...

  3. I decided to take advantage of my sliding dropouts and turn my ...

    64 votes, 15 comments. 26K subscribers in the TrekBikes community. Ride bikes, have fun, feel good. The official community of Trek bike riders around…

  4. Bicycle Dropouts: What You Need To Know

    Sliding dropouts are a type of adjustable dropout found on some bikes, offering the ability to adjust chain tension by moving the position of the rear axle back or forward. This makes them suitable for fixed gear, single speed and internally geared hub systems. ... • Trek Madone: The Trek Madone frames are well-regarded due to their aero ...

  5. How to Set up and Adjust Sliding Dropouts

    #shortsIf you are new to sliding dropouts, they may be confusing at first, but it is a pretty simple design. The chain is tensioned by tightening two bolts ...

  6. Trek Farley fatty stranglehold horizontal Dropout adjustment for

    In this video, we go over adjusting the dropouts on a Trek Farley Fat bike. The process works for many other trek bikes and is similar for many other bike br...

  7. What is Trek's Horizontal Sliding Dropout?

    From a gear bike to a single-speed or stable riding to quick handling, Trek Horizontal Sliding Dropout provides a fast and easy way for you to convert your b...

  8. New Sliding Drop out issue

    New Sliding Drop out issue. Jump to Latest Follow ... Hey all I have a 2011 Rig with the new trek sliding drop outs, same as on the Superfly and on the Sawyer. I can't seem to get good tension with them. I get the tension set with the adjuster bolts, then when I try and tighten the big locking bolts they pull the entire drop out back, over ...

  9. Trek Rig sliding dropout issues

    trek need to recall this and remake design .i.e. maxle which would fix the wheel drop out issue - (or) you could have the slider remade or modified to suit a maxle type axle. bolt wise for the slider, I would be increasing the diameter of the bolt using high tensile type.

  10. Advice on single speed CX bikes, specifically the dropouts and ...

    The current iteration of the nature cross does this with a different version of the ebb. Older versions of the nature boy used a horizontal dropout with a sliding disc brake mount (the 853 I have is like that). Another ebay/used option would be the older trek crockett framesets that have the stranglehold sliding dropout.

  11. Trek 1120 Review

    These rounded pegs serve as strap guides that work really well at keeping the straps from sliding and the load in place. ... with racks) and shorter chainstay (and that was at the long setting for the dropout). Trek 1120 vs The Stache. The Stache is Trek's flagship 29+ hardtail. The 1120 borrows a lot from the Stache in terms of overall look ...

  12. Fat bikes with sliding dropouts?

    295 posts · Joined 2009. #1 · Dec 23, 2019. What brands/models have sliding dropouts, other than the obvious, Salsa and Surly? I also know about the Trek Farley, because I have one. (I converted it to SS and my girlfriend decided she likes it, so I need to buy/build something else.) Don't bother with small, custom brands because this needs to ...

  13. Rear Dropouts Adjustable-slider

    VGS STEEL 1" / 25.4 FLANGED SLIDER DROP OUT - 12MM THRU AXLE -POST MOUNT - 30MM HANGER - USA CNC MACHINED. $140.00 Sold Out. VGS STEEL FLANGED SLIDER DROP OUT - 12MM THRU AXLE -POST MOUNT - NO HANGER - USA CNC MACHINED. $140.00 Bicycle Fabrication Supply. Phoenix AZ 85044, USA. 602-561-3763 [email protected].

  14. Trek Bicycle Santa Clarita

    Trek Bicycle Santa Clarita is your destination for the latest products from Trek and Bontrager, service and tune-ups for bikes of any brand, and a great place to reserve a rental bike for your next two-wheeled adventure. We're lucky to be near some awesome places to ride, like Tapia Canyon, Golden Valley Ranch, and the Trek Santa Clarita Bike ...

  15. A1 On Track Sliding Door Installation and Repair

    Licensed & Bonded License # 747284. A1 On Track Sliding Door. Repair and Installation. 1550 Dell Avenue. Campbell, CA 95008. Phone: 1-800-491-5654. E-mail: A1 On Track Sliding Door Repair and Installation, Campbell, CA - Whatever your sliding door needs, new installation or repair, please call us. If it slides, we make it glide.

  16. Trek Road, Mountain, Hybrid & Electric Bikes for Sale

    Trek is one of the biggest players in the cycling industry. As leaders in technology and innovation, Trek is able to provide high-quality bikes for riders at every level and in every style. Whether you are just starting out riding road, mountain, or commuter bikes, Trek has options for everyone to match their goals and abilities. Take a look at ...

  17. Memberships & Passes

    Movement offers household memberships for two members ages 13 and older. Members can be added or removed.*. There can be a max of two adults (18+) on a single membership account and any additional children of theirs, 17 and under. *If the primary member is removed/cancelled, the entire household membership is cancelled.