edinburgh travel guardian

Edinburgh beyond the fringe: the best day trips from the city by train

There’s a lot to see just a short rail journey from Edinburgh. Don’t miss out on these stunning Scottish countryside delights – including one of Attenborough’s ‘wonders of the world’

• Share on Facebook
• Share on Twitter
• Share via Email

Of the half million annual visitors to the Edinburgh International Festival (running from 4-28 August this year), the vast majority don’t leave the city. Which is understandable given the cultural smörgåsbord on offer, and that it takes place in (arguably) the UK’s most attractive city. But it’s also a wasted opportunity given that this is the capital of one of the most beautiful countries in the world, with a wealth of stunning scenery on its doorstep.

The really epic stuff is up in the Highlands, several hours away, but you can get a taste of Scotland’s unique wild beauty on a day trip from Edinburgh. Here are three suggestions easily reached by public transport that take in a hill walk, amazing wildlife and a famous loch.

Beaches and birdlife: the North Berwick coast

Fastest train from Edinburgh to North Berwick : 24 minutes

The scenic southern shores of the Firth of Forth in East Lothian make for a perfect day at the coast. North Berwick, which a became popular resort in the 19th century, is a quintessential Scottish seaside town, with two vast golden sandy beaches to play on, rock pools to explore and great seafood and fish and chips – try the Lobster Shack in the harbour.

Three miles and a bumpy boat ride from North Berwick is Bass Rock , which David Attenborough has called “one of the wildlife wonders of the world”. In summer, this extinct volcano is home to up to 150,000 nesting gannets, as well as guillemots, razorbills, cormorants, puffins and numerous gulls.

Almost every square foot of the vertiginous rock, as well as the air around it, is thick with gannets. The sight, sound and stench of these huge, noisy birds as they divebomb into the sea for fish is an almost overwhelming assault on the senses. The boat ride also takes in a smaller island populated by thousands of puffins – the kids on board our boat preferred these cute, slightly comedic birds to the manic gannets.

Back on dry land, the interactive Scottish Seabird Centre , built at the turn of the millennium as an observation point for Bass Rock, is an impressively hands-on visitor centre, with zoom-in cameras and telescopes giving closeup views of the birds.

A short bus ride east from North Berwick is the semi-ruined Tantallon Castle (open but some access restrictions currently in place), a red sandstone fortress built in the 14th century high on a cliff edge. We arrived early and for an hour were the only visitors taking in the fine views out to the Firth of Forth and the castle’s bloody history (it was besieged several times, the last being by Oliver Cromwell’s army).

If you play golf, East Lothian is home to some of the world’s best links courses, including North Berwick’s West Links, Muirfield and Gullane. Booking essential at all courses.

History and hiking: Stirling and Dumyat hill

Fastest train from Edinburgh: 40 minutes to Stirling (or 52 minutes to Bridge of Allan)

Northern Scotland’s heavenly mountain-walking country is out of range for a day trip, but you can get a wee taste of the Highlands around Stirling, which sits between the Lowlands and the Highlands. Although it is only 418 metres high, Dumyat (Dùn Mhèad in Gaelic) on the western edge of the Ochil Hills, is a handsome and distinctive hill that offers lovely views for relatively little effort.

There is a good path to the summit which avoids the steep southern slopes, so on a good day it is ideal for beginners and families (although in this part of the world it is always a good idea to wear walking shoes and take wet weather gear). The route is dotted with sheepfolds and offers views of the other Ochils, Fife, Stirling Castle, the Wallace Monument (also worth a visit) and bigger hills beyond.

From Stirling station, take a taxi to Pendreich forest car park for the easier and more popular route up to the two summits of Dumyat hill and Castle Law (where there are remains of an ancient hill fort that gave Dumyat its name). For the steeper, shorter and less busy route go to Blairlogie Orchard car park. (And to avoid taking a taxi to the start, stay on the train to Bridge of Allan station, though this will add two miles walking each way).

Stirling is also worth exploring. The charming medieval town is full of cobbled streets and historic buildings, and its magnificent Renaissance architecture castle rivals Edinburgh’s – and has fewer visitors. And kids will love the gruesome digitally recreated events at the Battle of Bannockburn Experience , a decisive moment in Scottish history. The immersive 3D technology gives young Robert the Bruces the chance to command a virtual battlefield and send medieval warriors, archers and knights into battle to defeat the English invaders.

• Full details of the Dumyat walk at walkhighlands.co.uk

City and cycling: Glasgow and Loch Lomond

Fastest train from Edinburgh to Glasgow Queen Street : 44 minutes . From Balloch back to Glasgow : 53 minutes

Scotland’s two great, but very different cities are less than an hour apart by train, and Loch Lomond is a flat and easy cycle ride from Glasgow, though perhaps best done on an ebike as this is a long day out. I rented one in Edinburgh ( cyclescotland.co.uk , £50 a day) and took it on the train to Glasgow. To find the cycle path to Loch Lomond, come out of either Queen Street or Glasgow Central station and drop down to the River Clyde, a few minutes south, and then simply head west and keep going. The cycle trail is excellently signposted (although the distances indicated are less accurate) and follows the Clyde, the Forth and Clyde Canal through post-industrial Glasgow before reaching the lovely scenery of the Vale of Leven.

The small town of Balloch is the gateway to the gorgeous shores of Loch Lomond, Scotland’s largest lake, and the Highlands. Here, I took a two-hour boat trip to small islands which sit on the Highland Boundary Fault, which divides the Highlands from the Lowlands. Sitting on the loch looking up at the vast rugged landscape, I’d found what I was looking for: “This is proper Scotland,” I thought.

You could spend a couple of days exploring Glasgow but a highlight this month is the inaugural UCI Cycling world championships taking place in the city and across Scotland from 3-13 August. This landmark event brings together various disciplines (track, BMX, road and mountain biking) together for the first time and promises to be the world’s biggest-ever cycling event. Highlights for spectators include racing in the velodome in Glasgow’s and BMX in Glentress Forest, 25 miles south of Edinburgh. The men’s elite road race begins in Edinburgh on Sunday 6 August, starting in the shadow of Arthur’s Seat before heading up the Royal Mile to the Old Town and Edinburgh Castle.

• The trip was provided by Visit Scotland . Accommodation was provided by cottages.com . The UCI Championships are taking place in Glasgow with the Para-Cycling Road events in Dumfries & Galloway (3 August to 13 August), tickets start from £5 , cyclingworldchamps.com .

{{topLeft}}

{{bottomLeft}}

{{topRight}}

{{bottomRight}}

{{heading}}

• Scotland holidays
• Edinburgh holidays
• Edinburgh festival
• United Kingdom holidays
• Share on LinkedIn
• Share on WhatsApp
• Share on Messenger

{{#isVideo}} {{/isVideo}}{{#isGallery}} {{/isGallery}}{{#isAudio}} {{/isAudio}} {{#isComment}} {{/isComment}} {{headline}}

• {{ title }}
• Sign in / Register

Switch edition

• {{ displayName }}

Europe Chevron

United Kingdom Chevron

Scotland Chevron

Edinburgh Chevron

Edinburgh Travel Guide

There used to be a down season in Edinburgh, when Scotland's capital city—with its beautiful Gothic buildings, cobblestoned Royal Mile, and 12th-century castle keeping watch on a hilltop—caught a slight breather from tourists. But no longer. The crowds keep coming, all year long, because they've caught onto why this city generally is the first stop on a trip to Scotland. Edinburgh is most famous for its wild arts and performance festival, which takes place every year for the full month of August—when the days are longer, and the weather warmer. But the Scottish capital is a romantic spot for a winter-city break, too. With a buzzing dining scene, not to mention an expanded emphasis on drinks beyond suds and whisky, this is a city that artfully balances the (very) old with the new. Dive into our guide to find out why this might be Europe's hottest capital right now.

Plan Your Edinburgh Trip

By Rick Jordan

By Mark Ellwood

By Steve King

By Jordi Lippe-McGraw

By Paul Rubio

By Krystin Arneson

Editor Hotel Recommendations

The Best Things to Do in Edinburgh

By Freya Herring

By Danielle Bernabe

Editor Recommendations

By Sarah Khan

The Best Places to Eat & Drink in Edinburgh

By Caroline Eden

By Karen Gardiner

Editor Restaurant and Bar Recommendations

More from Edinburgh

By Ross Kenneth Urken

By Olivia Morelli

By Andrew Sessa

By Meredith Carey

By Juliana Shallcross

By Lilit Marcus

More Destinations

By CNT Editors

Edinburgh Travel Stories

Mar 16, 2022 • 7 min read

Edinburgh may be famed for its historic castle but the city is a hotbed of modern creativity. Here's a guide to the city's best architecture and design.

Feb 17, 2022 • 6 min read

Here are the must-see museums in Scotland’s capital, from national treasures to where to go time traveling.

Feb 6, 2022 • 11 min read

Edinburgh is famously one of the UK's most expensive cities, but that doesn’t mean it has to cost you a pretty penny to visit.

Jan 17, 2022 • 7 min read

Edinburgh is famed for its hills, but the city has a fine collection of cycle-paths and mountain bike trails. Here's everything cyclists need to know.

Jan 3, 2022 • 8 min read

Here’s what you need to know before you dive into Edinburgh: When to go, what to pack, the slang, the smells, the banknotes and more.

Dec 11, 2021 • 7 min read

Edinburgh has plenty of great day trips from historical castles to uninhabited islands, and in the depths of winter you'll have many of these to yourself.

Sep 27, 2021 • 8 min read

It might be Scotland’s most expensive city but there is a wealth of free things to do in Edinburgh for those on a budget.

Sep 27, 2021 • 6 min read

Atmospheric and minus the crowds in winter, or buzzing with festivals in summer: we explore the best time to visit Edinburgh, Scotland’s artsiest city.

Sep 22, 2021 • 5 min read

Edinburgh is one of Britain’s greenest cities. Here are just a few of the city's biggest and best parks.

Sep 17, 2021 • 9 min read

One of the world's most gorgeous cities, Edinburgh is big enough to house national galleries and museums but small enough to get around by foot.

Sep 15, 2021 • 6 min read

Perfect your trip to Edinburgh with a trip to one of these seven top beaches in and around the Scottish capital.

Sep 15, 2021 • 7 min read

If you’re visiting the Scottish capital sometime soon, discover the best ways to get around Edinburgh and its surrounding suburbs.

Sep 14, 2021 • 5 min read

From the Old Town to the beach in Portobello, here's a helpful guide to Edinburgh’s best neighborhoods.

Feb 6, 2020 • 5 min read

The Beltane Fire Festival marks the dawn of summer and thousands of years of ritual, magic and rebirth with drumming, dancing, acrobatics and more.

Oct 22, 2019 • 4 min read

Edinburgh's restaurants form a varied and burgeoning food scene. Here's our guide on the best places to eat in Scotland's capital city.

Jun 12, 2019 • 5 min read

It’s the biggest arts fest on the planet, in one of the world’s most beautiful cities. Throughout summer world-class music, theatre, comedy, dance,…

Apr 16, 2019 • 5 min read

'Piled deep and massy, close and high; mine own romantic town.' So wrote Sir Walter Scott of Edinburgh, the city of his birth, and the first in the world…

Feb 28, 2019 • 4 min read

Edinburgh in springtime is beautiful, even if the weather at this time of year can still be a touch temperamental. The city’s world-class parks and…

Jan 24, 2019 • 5 min read

Edinburgh is an unbeatable city, steeped in history, culture, nature, architecture and constantly shifting northern light. From royal ships and ancient…

Sep 10, 2018 • 5 min read

Edinburgh is the perfect city for a weekend break – compact, easily navigable, and packed with iconic landmarks, staggering views, and an unparalleled mix…

Jul 23, 2018 • 5 min read

Lonely Planet Local Chitra Ramaswamy has lived in Edinburgh for more than a decade. Based in the north of the city in Leith, named one of the UK’s top…

Sep 1, 2017 • 7 min read

Travel in the UK can be a bargain experience if you do it right. Museums and galleries are often free, historic cities and parks offer plenty of options…

Day Trips From Edinburgh

Top Things to Do

Best Museums

Visiting Edinburgh Castle

Guide to Arthur's Seat

Best Restaurants

Nightlife Guide

Best Time to Visit

Edinburgh Airport Guide

Public Transportation

48-Hour Itinerary

48 Hours in Edinburgh: The Ultimate Itinerary

Chris Hepburn / Getty Images

Scottish history and culture are at the forefront of a visit to Edinburgh, one of the country's most popular destinations. The capital city, located on the east coast of Scotland , is easily accessible from London , but can also make for its own perfect weekend away. Whether you're interested in exploring one of Edinburgh's many museums or touring its famed castle, there's a lot to uncover during a stay in Edinburgh. That means you'll want to plan ahead and pick out the best possible highlights, including some of the city's favorite restaurants and bars.

Day 1: Morning

TripSavvy / Jess Macdonald

10 a.m.: After arriving in Edinburgh, head to your hotel for an early check-in. We recommend choosing a hotel that's centrally located in the Royal Mile, the main area of Edinburgh's Old Town, which is within walking distance from most of the popular sights and attractions. One of the city's most famous and historic hotels is The Balmoral , a five-star property that's hosted celebrities and royalty over the years. If you're feeling extravagant, opt for a Castle View Suite , which showcases impressive views of Edinburgh Castle. Those on a budget can still get a great location without all the fuss. The three-star Grassmarket Hotel , a quick walk from the Royal Mile, has a youthful, cool vibe and inexpensive rooms.

Noon: For your debut meal in Edinburgh, head to The Forth Floor Restaurant at posh department store Harvey Nichols, which serves modern cuisine with views overlooking the city of Edinburgh on one side and the Firth of Forth on the other. For something more casual, stroll to Bell’s Diner near Stockbridge Market for a burger in a homey, warm atmosphere. On the way, look for the famed Scott Monument, built for Sir Walter Scott.

Day 1: Afternoon

1 p.m.: Your first afternoon in Edinburgh should involve all the sight-seeing you can handle. Start with the obvious: Edinburgh Castle . Tickets to the centuries-old castle can be booked in advance online and visitors should plan to either walk up the hill to reach the castle or book a taxi. A tour of the castles includes visiting the Great Hall, St. Margaret’s Chapel, and the One O'Clock Gun, and there are various itineraries guests can follow depending on what they want to see. Be sure to rent an audio guide, which features the voice of actress Saoirse Ronan, to get all the history.

3 p.m.: After your tour of Edinburgh Castle, pay a visit to the Palace of Holyroodhouse , the Queen's official residence in Scotland. The former apartments of Mary, Queen of Scots and the State Apartments are open to the public throughout the year when the royal family is not in residence. The complimentary multimedia guide lasts one hour and is available in multiple languages. Nearby, look for the ruins of Saint Anthony's Chapel Ruins in Holyrood Park.

4:30 p.m.: For your final stop of the afternoon, go back in time at The Writers' Museum , a small museum that celebrates Scottish literary greats Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson. The museum is free and caters to every type of visitor, even those who aren't that familiar with the writers' work. It's a nice place to end your historical tour of Edinburgh and can be found in Lady Stair’s Close off the Royal Mile.

Day 1: Evening

Courtesy of The Kitchin

7 p.m.: Reserve a table at Michelin-starred eatery The Kitchin , run by chef Tom Kitchin. The restaurant, opened in 2006, is located on the Edinburgh waterfront and serves seasonal, local dishes that highlight the best of Scotland. The overarching philosophy is "from nature to plate," which means you can expect especially memorable meat and seafood. Select the "Surprise Tasting Menu" to go on a true culinary journey.

9 p.m.: After dinner, pull up a stool at Bramble Bar & Lounge , an award-winning cocktail bar on Queen Street. The bar is open Thursday through Sunday and reservations, which can be made via email, are recommended, especially on busy weekend nights. The menu includes chic modern takes on cocktails and you can't go wrong with any order. Ask the bartender for a recommendation if you're stumped. If you want to bar hop, try Hoot The Redeemer or The Devil's Advocate once you're finished at Bramble.

Day 2: Morning

TripSavvy / Michela Sieman

7 a.m.: Wake up early and start your day by hiking to Arthur's Seat, an extinct volcano that marks the highest peak in Holyrood Park. There are several ways to reach the summit, which offers amazing views of Edinburgh and its surroundings (as well as the sunrise, if you're early enough). The most scenic route is a hiking trail that follows the Salisbury Crags, although it's quite steep and involves some stone steps. However, there are easier, more gradual climbs available. Wear a sturdy pair of shoes and bring along some water. If you want to see the views but a hike isn't accessible, hop in a taxi or rental car and head up along the Queen’s Drive, which passes by Dunsapie Loch and the Salisbury Crags.

9 a.m.: For breakfast, settle in at The Pantry , a popular morning spot with two locations. Select between egg dishes, avocado toast, and waffles, or go for a full fry-up, which is popular in Scotland. There are no reservations, so plan to wait if you are dining on a weekend morning. It's perfect for vegetarians, as there are several veggie options available.

11 a.m.: Edinburgh boasts a selection of great museums, but you likely won't have time to explore all of them. Pick between the National Museum of Scotland , which showcases a vast array of exhibits on everything from the natural world to art and design, and the Scottish National Gallery , which focuses on art. Those who prefer something more contemporary will find innovative exhibits and works of art at the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art , which emphasizes its family activities and sculpture gardens. Whichever museum you choose will offer a glimpse of Scotland's history and culture.

Day 2: Afternoon

Courtesy of The Scotch Whisky Experience

1 p.m.: After lunch at Dishoom , one of the U.K.'s favorite Indian restaurants, take a stroll around Grassmarket. There you'll find dozens of shops and boutiques along cobbled streets, with an emphasis on local shops and artisans. Look for the Knight's Vault, which has replica jewelry and swords from "Outlander , " and Armchair Books, an incredible second-hand book shop.

3 p.m.: You can't visit Scotland without learning more about Scottish whisky, also known as scotch. To immerse yourself in the spirit's history, make a reservation at the Scotch Whisky Experience , which offers tours and tastings. Most of the tours last between an hour and 90 minutes and include a miniature or two to bring home as a souvenir.

5 p.m.: Carry on your newfound love of scotch at the Albanach, a welcoming pub on the Royal Mile. There are more than 220 Scottish malt whiskys on the menu, so ask the bartender for some help selecting a pre-dinner drink. If it's warm, grab a table outside to watch the passersby on the busy street.

Day 2: Evening

6 p.m.: Dine early so you can enjoy one of Edinburgh's prime theater experiences. Many of the restaurants offer pre-theater menus and are located close to the main theaters. Mamma Roma Restaurant , found near the Edinburgh Playhouse, is one of the city's most popular casual eateries for dinner. If you prefer something slightly more upscale, beloved steakhouse Hawksmoor has a pre-theater set menu (as well as a post-theater option for night owls).

7:30 p.m.: Home to the annual Fringe Festival, Edinburgh is well-known for its theater scene, as well as its many historic and contemporary playhouses. Be sure to check the upcoming shows in advance of your trip and reserve tickets for a play or musical to celebrate your final night in town. Some of the most renowned theaters include the Edinburgh Playhouse, Festival Theatre, Bedlam Theatre, New Town Theatre, and C cubed. If you're winging at the last minute, several of the theaters tend to have a few seats left if you visit the box office. The Traverse Theatre offers discounted tickets to people under 30, making it a great option for travelers on a budget.

Your Trip to Edinburgh: The Complete Guide

Nightlife in Edinburgh: Best Bars, Clubs, & More

One Week in Scotland: The Perfect Itinerary

The 10 Best Day Trips From Glasgow

The Top 20 Things to Do in Edinburgh

The Best 15 Restaurants in Edinburgh

Edinburgh Walk - One Day on and Around the Royal Mile

The 10 Best Day Trips From Edinburgh

The Top 15 Places to Visit in Scotland

Top 10 Castles to Visit in Scotland

The 16 Most Beautiful Natural Features in the UK

The Best Time to Visit Scotland

Best Time to Visit Edinburgh

The 12 Best Road Trips in Scotland

12 "Must-See" Places in England, Scotland and Wales

Nomadic Matt's Travel Site

Travel Better, Cheaper, Longer

Edinburgh Travel Guide

Last Updated: September 1, 2023

As the capital of Scotland since the 15th century, Edinburgh has a rich history (especially literary history; the city was designated a UNESCO City of Literature in 2004). Both the Old Town and New Town are also UNESCO World Heritage sites and there are centuries of myths and legends about the spooky underbelly of the city ( which you can learn about on a haunted ghost tour .

As the second-most visited city in the UK, there are tons of things to see and do here no matter what your interests are. There are beautiful walks, historic buildings, lively pubs, huge festivals (such as the Edinburgh Fringe Festival and Hogmanay), a castle, Harry Potter tours, and much, much more.

This travel guide to Edinburgh can help you plan your trip, save money, and make the most of your visit to this historic and picturesque city!

Table of Contents

• Things to See and Do
• Typical Costs
• Suggested Budget
• Money-Saving Tips
• Where to Stay
• How to Get Around
• How to Stay Safe
• Best Places to Book Your Trip
• Related Blogs on Edinburgh

Top 5 Things to See and Do in Edinburgh

1. Visit Edinburgh Castle

Built in the 12th century, Edinburgh Castle sits on a hill overlooking the city’s Old Town. It’s the most besieged place in Great Britain and you can easily spend hours here exploring and learning the castle’s history (the Crown Jewel exhibit is worth the price alone). Admission is 15.50 GBP.

2. Hike to Arthur’s Seat

Arthur’s Seat is an extinct volcano on the outskirts of Edinburgh. With a height of 251 meters (823 feet), it provides hikers with a picturesque panorama of the city. The hike takes an hour each way. If the weather is nice, bring a picnic and spend an afternoon looking out over the city.

3. Walk the Royal Mile

This pedestrian road is lined with pubs, restaurants, and shops. While touristy (it can get crowded in the summer), it’s also incredibly beautiful and historic. There are many historical monuments and buildings to check out nearby, such as the medieval St. Giles’ Cathedral.

4. Tour Rosslyn Chapel

Founded in 1446, this historic chapel near Edinburgh was made famous in The Da Vinci Code . The chapel is ripe with intricate artwork and symbolism that has spawned many conspiracy theories. Located just an hour from Edinburgh, admission is 9.50 GBP.

5. See the Scott Monument

Other things to see and do in edinburgh, 1. take a free walking tour.

The best way to get the lay of the land is to take a walking tour. You get a feel for the city and get to see the main sights while also having a local expert on hand to answer your questions. I always take a free walking tour when I arrive at a new destination. It’s the best way to get situated. New Europe has a great free tour that lasts a couple of hours — just be sure to tip your guide at the end!

2. Hang out in Calton Hill

Calton Hill is a quiet place to escape the noise of the city and admire the view. Take a hike to the top of the hill where you can sit and relax in a peaceful park-like setting. The National Monument of Scotland (a memorial to the soldiers who fought in the Napoleonic Wars between 1803-1815) and the Nelson Monument, dedicated to Horatio Nelson (a famous 18th-century British Admiral) are located here.

3. Explore Princes Street Gardens

For another free outing, spend an afternoon at Princes Street Gardens, which boasts a beautiful view of Edinburgh Castle. The garden is composed of two main parks and dates to the 1770s, when Edinburgh’s largest lake, Nor Loch, was drained to create the park. Today, the park is beloved by tourists and visitors alike, with vendors selling food and souvenirs here. At Christmas, the Garden turns into a German-style winter fair, full of stalls selling food, mulled wine, toys, and rides (the Christmas markets usually open mid-November).

4. Tour the Museum of Edinburgh

This museum is in the 16th-century Huntly House (one of the historic buildings on the Royal Mile) and offers insight into the city and its past. The museum is home to the National Covenant (an important Scottish Presbyterian document from 1638) as well as some original city plans and a miniature of the Old Town. There are also works of art, silverware, weapons, and more. The museum is free.

5. Visit the National Gallery of Scotland

This impressive gallery is home to works by Monet, Rembrandt, Degas, Vermeer, and Van Gogh, as well as works by famous Scottish painters like Allan Ramsay, David Wilkie, and William McTaggart. Opened in 1859, the gallery was designed in the Neoclassical style to look like an ancient Greek temple. Works span the centuries from the Renaissance to the 20th century and the gallery is free to enter (some temporary exhibits have a fee).

6. Attend a summer festival

During the summer, Edinburgh is home to several huge festivals. The most popular is the Edinburgh Fringe Festival. Held in August, this festival brings in performers and entertainers of all kinds — actors, musicians, buskers, and more. The festival lasts three weeks and is the biggest festival of its kind in the world. Keep in mind that during this time, accommodation prices skyrocket and the city floods with people. If you plan to attend, make sure you book your accommodation in advance. The Edinburgh International Film Festival in June and the Edinburgh Jazz Festival in July are two other big festivals worth attending in the summer.

7. Take a ghost tour

Edinburgh has a spooky history and there are many tours that illuminate the city’s eerie past by taking you around to graveyards and through underground tunnels. Even if you don’t believe in ghosts, the tours take you to some old and interesting parts of Edinburgh. Don’t miss the Ghost Bus tour as well as a tour of the Vaults (the underground tunnels below the city) — both of which you do at night!

8. Drink some scotch

Learn how scotch is made by touring the Scotch Whisky Experience. It’s part museum, part interactive attraction (there’s even a barrel ride where you sit in a fake barrel and learn about the whisky-making process). There are also exhibits to show you the history of Scotland’s famous drink and how it came to hold such a revered place in the culture. Prices vary depending on what type of tour you want but begin at 17 GBP.

9. Celebrate Hogmanay

Hogmanay is one of the world’s biggest and most famous New Year’s Eve celebrations . Tens of thousands of people gather in the city streets to celebrate with torchlight processions, concerts, and fireworks. Prepare yourself for lots of drinking, holiday festivities, live music, and huge crowds. Book your accommodation far in advance as tens of thousands of people attend the festival.

10. Have fun at Camera Obscura

Founded in 1835, Camera Obscura is a fun and educational interactive museum. It’s home to over 100 exhibits that use light, mirrors, and technology to create stunning optical illusions. It’s located right in the heart of the Old Town making it easily accessible for anyone traveling with kids (or anyone who wants to indulge their inner child). It’s part science, part illusion, and all fun. Admission is 18 GBP.

11. Take a Harry Potter tour

If you’re a fan of J.K. Rowling’s epic fantasy series, be sure to book a spot on The Potter Trail, Edinburgh’s original Harry Potter tour. Tours are held daily and cover all the main sites in the city that relate to the books. The tour lasts 90 minutes and is accessible for both casual enthusiasts as well as die-hard fans. The tour is free, though make sure to tip your guides as well.

12. Visit St. Giles’ Cathedral

Also known as the High Kirk of Edinburgh, St. Giles’ Cathedral is located on the Royal Mile and was originally built in the 12th century. The current building dates to the 14th century and was formerly a Roman Catholic Cathedral (St. Giles is now part of the Church of Scotland). In addition to the beautiful and austere interior, the cathedral is home to some noteworthy monuments, including one to famed Scottish author Robert Louis Stevenson, who wrote Treasure Island and The Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde . Admission is free. Remember that this is a place of worship, so dress respectfully.

  For more information on other cities in Scotland, check out these guides:

• Glasgow Travel Guide

Edinburgh Travel Costs

Hostel prices – Most 4-8-bed dorms cost 16-22 GBP, while a bed in a dorm with 10 or more beds costs 12-14 GBP per night. Prices tend to rise a few pounds in the summer and drop a few in the winter. Private double rooms cost 50-75 GBP per night.

Free Wi-Fi and lockers are standard and most hostels also have self-catering facilities. Free breakfast is rare, but a few hostels in the city do offer it. Be sure to book those hostels in advance if it’s a priority.

Budget hotel prices – Budget hotels cost around 50-65 GBP per night. These usually include free Wi-Fi and some offer free breakfast.

A private Airbnb room costs 30 GBP per night while entire homes/apartments start at 55 GBP per night (though most cost 70 GBP per night or more).

For those traveling with a tent, camping is another option here — especially if you head out to the nearby Loch Lomond National Park. Expect to pay around 17 GBP per night for a basic plot (which is just a flat space for a tent; electricity is generally not included). Most parks close for the winter, so availability is limited come late October/early November. If you’re in a car or campervan, you can use the app ‘park4night’ to find paid overnight parking, free overnight parking, and campgrounds.

Food – Scottish food is hearty, heavy, and filling. Seafood is abundant, and popular traditional dishes include blood pudding, minced beef, fish and chips, smoked herring, neeps and tatties (turnips and potatoes), and of course haggis (a dish composed of minced sheep’s organs and spices inside a sheep’s stomach casing). Porridge is a common breakfast choice, though a larger breakfast of sausage, eggs, beans, and bread is not uncommon either. Sticky toffee pudding is a favorite dessert, and of course, you can’t visit Scotland without sampling some scotch.

Expect to pay around 10-12 GBP for a basic meal like a Scottish breakfast or haggis. For pub food like fish and chips or a burger, prices are usually between 15-25 GBP. For a full three-course meal at a mid-range restaurant, prices begin around 30 GBP.

A pint of beer is 4 GBP while a glass of wine is around 5.50 GBP. A latte or cappuccino is around 2.70 GBP.

A classic fish and chips from a no-frills takeaway spot is around 6 GBP. Chinese takeout is around 8-10 GBP, while a basic fast food combo meal (think McDonald’s) costs around 6 GBP. Street food (like from a food truck) costs around 6-8 GBP.

The Mosque Kitchen is one of the cheapest restaurants in the entire city. You can get an excellent meal there for 6-8 GBP.

For a week’s worth of groceries, expect to pay 40-60 GBP. This covers basic staples like pasta, rice, seasonal produce, and some meat. The cheapest supermarkets to look out for are Aldi, Lidl, Asda, and Tesco.

Backpacking Edinburgh Suggested Budgets

On a backpacker budget, you can visit Edinburgh for about 55 GBP per day. This means staying in a dorm room or camping, cooking all of your meals, limiting your drinking, sticking to mostly free activities like hiking and free walking tours, and using public transportation to get around.

On a mid-range budget of about 100 GBP per day, you can stay in a private Airbnb room, eat out for most of your meals (sticking to a lot of pub foods), do more paid activities like visiting museums or galleries, enjoying a couple of drinks at the bar, and taking the occasional taxi to get around. You’re not going to live large, but you can get by without worrying too much about your spending.

On a “luxury” budget of 200 GBP or more per day, you can stay in a hotel, eat out for every meal, drink what you want, and visit as many museums and attractions as you’d like, take taxis, and do whatever else you want. This is just the ground floor for luxury though — you can easily spend more if you really want to splash out!

You can use the chart below to get some idea of how much you need to budget daily, depending on your travel style. Keep in mind these are daily averages — some days you’ll spend more, some days you’ll spend less (you might spend less every day). We just want to give you a general idea of how to make your budget. Prices are in GBP.

Edinburgh Travel Guide: Money-Saving Tips

Like the rest of the UK, Edinburgh can be expensive. Fortunately, there are lots of ways to lower your costs and save money here. Here are some quick tips to help you save money in Edinburgh:

• Get the Edinburgh City Pass – If you’re planning to explore Edinburgh, get the City Pass. For 45 GBP, you’ll get access to 22 attractions as well as free transportation to and from the airport. There is also a two-day pass for 55 GBP and a three-day pass for 65 GBP. It’s a good choice for anyone planning to see a lot.
• Eat in a pub – The best food is often in the pubs and at a fraction of the price when compared to a sit-down restaurant. If you’re going to eat out, eat here.
• Eat during lunch – Many cafes, bakeries, nd chains offer lunch deals for as little as 3-5 GBP.
• Use apps to get discounted food – The app Too Good to Go, (on which participating eateries sell severely discounted meals/groceries/baked goods at the end of the day) has good coverage all across Scotland, particularly in Edinburgh. For discounts on takeout try the app Secret Takeaways which supports local restaurants by cutting out the delivery app middlemen (and their high fees).
• Visit the free museums – The public museums in Scotland are free — so take advantage! Free attractions include The National Museum of Scotland, Scottish National Gallery, St. Giles Cathedral, the Royal Botanic Garden, and the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art.
• Avoid eating and shopping in the city centers – Edinburgh is significantly more expensive the closer you get to the city center/Old Town. There are plenty of good restaurants and quirky shops outside of the center, so go for those. Trust me, you won’t be disappointed.
• Stay with a local – Couchsurfing is the best way to save on accommodation as it’s free! You’ll not only save money but have access to a knowledgeable local who can help point you to some of the city’s hidden gems.
• Take a free walking tour – If you want to learn more about the history, architecture, and people of Scotland then be sure to take a free walking tour. They usually last a couple of hours and are a great introduction to the city.
• Cook your own meals – Food in the UK isn’t cheap. Save yourself some money and cook a few meals for yourself. It may not be as fancy as eating out, but your wallet will thank you!
• Use discount websites – Groupon, Wowcher and Living Social have good deals on accommodation, attractions, and dining out.
• Bring a water bottle – The tap water here is safe to drink so bring a reusable water bottle to save money and reduce your plastic use. LifeStraw is my go-to brand as their bottles have built-in filters to ensure your water is always clean and safe.

Where to Stay in Edinburgh

Edinburgh has plenty of hostels and they’re all pretty comfortable and sociable. These are my favorite places to stay in Edinburgh:

• Castle Rock
• Edinburgh Backpackers
• A&O Edinburgh
• Kick Ass Grassmarket

How to Get Around Edinburgh

Public transportation – Buses and trams are the most common forms of public transportation in the city. A single ticket costs 1.80 GBP and goes up from there depending on how far you go. Buses take only exact change so you may want to download the “Transport for Edinburgh” app to pay for tickets on your phone instead. You can even use it to buy tram tickets to/from the airport.

Day passes can be purchased for 4.40 GBP and a one-week ticket costs 20 GBP (does include the airport).

The Airlink bus to the airport costs 4.50 GBP for the 30-minute journey, while the tram costs 6 GBP.

Taxi – Taxis aren’t cheap here so I would avoid them as much as possible. Rates start at 3 GBP and go up by 1.40 GBP per kilometer. Stick to public transportation if you’re on a budget unless you are splitting the ride with someone.

Gett and Free Now are the two most common platforms used for taxis (they are linked to the Google Maps app so you can use that to get price estimates if you’re comparing modes of transportation). That being said, Edinburgh has safe and reliable public transportation, so I’d avoid taxis and ridesharing unless you have no other options.

Ridesharing – Uber is available in Edinburgh, but it’s not always cheaper than taxis.

Car rental – Scotland is a great road trip destination, though I would only rent a car if you’re leaving the city (or if you need it for a specific reason in the city). Getting around the city is easier without a vehicle as public transportation is reliable. I would avoid renting a car unless you’re leaving the city.

You can find rentals for 25 GBP per day and campers for as little as 30 GBP per day. Just remember that traffic flows on the left. Most vehicles are manual transmissions as well.

When to Go to Edinburgh

Summer is the most popular time to visit Edinburgh. In July and August, there’s warm weather and minimal rain, with temperatures reaching highs of around 20°C (68°F). This is also the busiest time of the year, so expect crowds in the cities and lots of people out enjoying the nearby national parks. The Edinburgh Fringe Festival takes place in August, which is a huge multi-week festival. Be sure to book your accommodation in advance if you’re visiting during this time.

September is a rather wet month, though October offers incredible fall foliage. It’s a good month for road trips — especially if you plan on renting a car or camper and heading into the Cairngorms (Scotland’s biggest national park, which is only a couple of hours from the city). Seasonal businesses and accommodations start to close in mid-October so be sure to keep that in mind when planning. Expect October temperatures to hover around 12°C (55°F) during the day.

The spring is a great time to visit, with April and May offering minimal rain and no crowds. There’s snow and cool temperatures in the highlands, but the city is lively without being crowded.

Winters in Scotland are cold and dark. December is relatively dry but the temperatures dip close to 0°C (32°F). It’s nevertheless a popular time to visit, with many tourists coming to Edinburgh for the huge Hogmanay New Year’s Eve celebration (one of the biggest New Year’s festivals in the world).

By February, snow is common so keep that in mind if you plan on renting a vehicle. Unless you’re coming to engage in winter sports, I’d avoid a winter visit unless you don’t mind the grim and grey atmosphere of the country.

How to Stay Safe in Edinburgh

Scotland is a safe country, and you won’t need to worry about crime while you’re here. Edinburgh is safe for solo travelers — including female travelers — though women should take the standard precautions when traveling alone at night (don’t travel alone intoxicated, keep an eye on your drink, etc.).

As in all cities, stay vigilant when you’re in crowded tourist areas and on public transportation as that is when pickpockets usually strike. Always keep your valuables secure and out of reach just to be safe.

If you are hiking nearby (for example, in the Cairngorms a few hours north) make sure you have the appropriate equipment and that you notify your accommodation of your plans just in case. And if you’re hiking Arthur’s Seat, expect windy conditions at the summit.

While scams here are rare, you can read about common travel scams to avoid here if you’re concerned.

If you experience an emergency, dial 999 for assistance.

The most important piece of advice I can offer is to purchase good travel insurance. Travel insurance protects you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. It’s comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong. I never go on a trip without it as I’ve had to use it many times in the past. You can use the widget below to find the policy right for you:

Edinburgh Travel Guide: The Best Booking Resources

These are my favorite companies to use when I travel. They consistently have the best deals, offer world-class customer service and great value, and overall, are better than their competitors. They are the companies I use the most and are always the starting point in my search for travel deals.

• Skyscanner – Skyscanner is my favorite flight search engine. They search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites tend to miss. They are hands down the number one place to start.
• Hostelworld – This is the best hostel accommodation site out there with the largest inventory, best search interface, and widest availability.
• Booking.com – The best all around booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation. In all my tests, they’ve always had the cheapest rates out of all the booking websites.
• Get Your Guide – Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions. They have tons of tour options available in cities all around the world, including everything from cooking classes, walking tours, street art lessons, and more!
• SafetyWing – Safety Wing offers convenient and affordable plans tailored to digital nomads and long-term travelers. They have cheap monthly plans, great customer service, and an easy-to-use claims process that makes it perfect for those on the road.
• LifeStraw – My go-to company for reusable water bottles with built-in filters so you can ensure your drinking water is always clean and safe.
• Unbound Merino – They make lightweight, durable, easy-to-clean travel clothing.
• Top Travel Credit Cards – Points are the best way to cut down travel expenses. Here’s my favorite point earning credit cards so you can get free travel!
• BlaBlaCar – BlaBlaCar is a ridesharing website that lets you share rides with vetted local drivers by pitching in for gas. You simply request a seat, they approve, and off you go! It’s a cheaper and more interesting way to travel than by bus or train!

Edinburgh Travel Guide: Related Articles

Want more info? Check out all the articles I’ve written on backpacking/traveling Scotland and continue planning your trip:

The 6 Best Hotels in Edinburgh

The Best Walking Tours in Edinburgh

Where to Stay in Edinburgh: The Best Neighborhoods for Your Visit

The Best Ghost Tours in Edinburgh

A Complete Visitor’s Guide to Rosslyn Chapel

Searching for the Perfect Dram on Islay

Get my best stuff sent straight to you, pin it on pinterest.

• Where To Stay
• Transportation
• Booking Resources
• Related Blogs

• Work With Us
• Blogging Bootcamp

• Van Conversion Academy
• Campervan Shop
• Campervan Rentals
• Plan a Trip
• Itineraries
• Destinations
• Responsible Travel
• Family Travel
• Budget Travel
• Scuba Diving
• Travel Credit Cards
• Digital Nomad
• Teach English Abroad
• Blogging Resources
• Income Reports
• Travel Shop
• Meet Katie & Ben
• About Two Wandering Soles
• Personal Stuff
• Portfolio & Press

40 Insanely Fun Things to do in Edinburgh

Home » Blog » Europe » United Kingdom » 40 Insanely Fun Things to do in Edinburgh

A lovely blend of old and new, renowned for its gastronomic scene, historical sights and high culture, Edinburgh truly has something for everyone. We’ve curated this list of the best things to do in Edinburgh to help you plan your trip. 

Edinburgh is one of those cities that is just easy to fall in love with . 

Steeped with history and oozing with charm, Edinburgh has a lovely blend of old and new . Medieval architecture plays host to world class restaurants, and cozy shops are nestled in centuries-old alleyways. And perched above it all, Edinburgh’s majestic castle overlooks the entire city.

As the kids say these days, this place is a vibe.  

Edinburgh is touristy, yes, but for good reason. It is utterly magical; and we’d be surprised if you didn’t fall in love, too.

There are so many things to do in Edinburgh that you could easily spend a week in this historic city and still not get around to everything. From off-the-beaten-path gems, to the top views in town, to memorable foodie experiences, Edinburgh truly has something for every type of traveler.

We’ve curated a list of the very best things to do in Edinburgh, including free and cheap activities for travelers on a budget, kid-friendly experiences, and unique things to do that’ll make you feel more like a local than a tourist. 

This guide is not only packed with the best things to do, but we’re also sharing top places to eat in Edinburgh as well as where to stay to ensure you have the best possible stay.  

If you’re planning a trip to Edinburgh, this article has everything you need to have an unforgettable visit.

Good to know: We visited Scotland with a baby (9 months old at the time) and in our opinion, Edinburgh is the best city to visit in Europe for families. So throughout this article, you’ll also find tips for traveling in Edinburgh with kids. That said, this guide will have tons of information even if you aren’t traveling as a family.

Edinburgh Travel Guide

For more tips and advice for planning your trip to Edinburgh, jump to the following sections (or just keep scrolling to see it all!).

Best time to visit Edinburgh

• How to get around
• Where to eat
• Where to stay
• What to pack

Psst! If you have time to discover more of the country, don’t miss these epic places to visit in Scotland .

Top things to do in Edinburgh

Scotland’s capital city is packed full of culture, history and adventure. There are so many things to do in Edinburgh, you could easily spend a month exploring the city’s nooks and crannies.

If you’re looking for the very best things to do in Edinburgh, here are our top  recommendations. 

• Experience Scottish cuisine on a food tour
• Hike to Arthur’s Seat
• Cheers at Scotland’s oldest pub (& play a historic game!)
• Check out Victoria Street
• Wander the streets of Dean Village
• Get fancy at afternoon tea
• See sunset at Calton Hill
• Go on a free walking tour

Keep reading for more detailed information on each of these things and more ideas of fun things to do in Edinburgh. 

1. Experience Scottish cuisine on a Food Tour

If you’ve been following this blog for any amount of time (we see you!), you probably know we LOVE food. 

Yes, that is all caps for a reason. 

One of our very favorite parts about traveling is being able to experience the cuisine in the places we visit because you can truly learn so much about the people, culture and history through the food.

And there’s no better way to do that than by taking a food tour. 

We took a food tour in Glasgow (which was our 11th around the world!), and it was truly wonderful. 

On our food tour, we had five food stops and drinks paired with most of them. We got to try traditional Scottish dishes in some really cool spots. 

Plus, we spent the afternoon with a local, so we could pick her brain with questions we had as well as local recommendations.

Insider Tip: Book your tickets early! Originally, we wanted to take a food tour in Edinburgh , but all tour companies were completely booked up during our travel dates, so be sure to reserve your spots well in advance.

Best food tours in Edinburgh:

• 3-Hour Guided Secret Food Tour : This guided tour through Edinburgh’s Old Town will take you to 6 different places to sample traditional Scottish fare and learn the culinary history and culture of the city. 
• A Wee Taste unique Scottish food experience : This Scottish food journey, led by a qualified history teacher, is an opportunity to taste all kinds of Scottish bites and drinks while learning about the history. (Find out more about the venue in #29 on this list!)
• Chocolatarium Tour, Tasting & Chocolate Making : Calling all chocoholics! This hands-on tasting tour of Edinburgh’s Chocolatarium lets you follow the journey of chocolate from the jungles of South America to Scottish chocolate makers and the finished chocolate bar.

Good to know: Most food tours in Edinburgh will accommodate dietary restrictions, so be sure to contact them.

Want to save time and energy on planning?

We traveled in Scotland for about 2 weeks and were able to visit most of the highlights of the country, including most of the top places to visit.

We took our 2-week travels and created the perfect Scotland road trip itinerary.  We’ll send you our complete 2-week itinerary, filled with tips and advice. Just click below to get your  2-week Scotland road trip itinerary  today!

2. Hike to Arthur’s Seat

Looming on the horizon just beyond the city center, is an extinct volcano known as Arthur’s Seat.

Hiking to the top is one of the most popular things to do in Edinburgh, as you will be rewarded with some of the most spectacular views over the city! 

If you have good weather while in Edinburgh and are up for a bit of a hike, definitely add this to your itinerary.

Be prepared! Wear sturdy shoes (some of the rocky parts near the top can get slippery, especially if it has rained recently). I can get quite windy at the top, so bring layers and rain gear. And if you’re anything like me, you’ll definitely want to pack a snack to enjoy at the top!

Fun Fact: Like Rome, Edinburgh was built on 7 hills. And Arthur’s Seat is one of them! 

Arthur’s Seat Hike

• Distance: 2.4 miles (3.8 km)
• Elevation gain: 853 feet (260m)
• Difficulty: Moderate
• Type: There are different loops you can take, as well as doing an out and back path

We have a complete guide to hiking Arthur’s Seat in Edinburgh, including all the information you need to plan your hike.

What time of day is best to hike to Arthur’s Seat?

Any time is good! Some people love coming up here at sunset to witness the sky change colors over the city. Personally, we’d recommend hiking Calton Hill for sunset (#20 on this list), as it’s a much shorter walk and won’t require you to bring a headlamp for the return hike.

3. Cheers at Scotland’s oldest pub (& play a historic game)

Nestled in a quaint village at the south end of Holyrood Park, the Sheep Heid Inn is said to be the oldest surviving pub in Scotland. 

While in Edinburgh, make the trek to this pub for a pint and a glimpse into history! 

Grab a pint or cocktail (I had two really great cocktails with gin), and make a toast to making it to Edinburgh’s oldest pub. 

Well, we think…

Sheep Heid Inn History

While there is some debate on this, it is said that there has been an inn on this site since 1360 . If this is in fact correct, this would make it the oldest pub not only in Edinburgh, but in the whole of Scotland. 

In addition to its longstanding history, it has drawn famous patrons over the years, including Mary, Queen of Scots and Queen Elizabeth II.

Now I’m about to burst your bubble… the core of the structure that you will actually visit has only been around since the 18th century, with even more recent additions and restorations. 

Today, the Sheep Heid Inn has a thoughtfully curated blend of old and new . Historic relics and woodwork work alongside plush seating and stylish modern touches, giving the whole place an undeniable charm. 

Play the historic game of Skittles

While at the Sheep Heid Inn, be sure to check out the skittles alley, which is located in the back of the restaurant and is arguably the most unique feature of this establishment .

Similar to bowling , this alley has two lanes where players roll a ball (much smaller than a bowling ball) to knock down a set of pins. There’s even a set of rules on the wall, so you can play the game as it was intended. 

Make a bet with your travel companion, and the loser can buy the next round of drinks!

While you’re in the skittles alley, be sure to check out the old photographs on the wall of people playing this game in centuries past. It’s pretty cool knowing you’re standing where they stood all those years ago.

Do it yourself: You can make reservations for the skittles alley here , which costs £20 per hour for up to 6 guests. Alternatively, you can show up and see if it’s available. We asked the bartender, and there was nobody using it so he told us to head back there and play. He didn’t charge us to play since it was empty.

Transportation to and from the Sheep Heid Inn

This historic inn is quite a trek from the city center (about a 50-minute walk each way!), but in our opinion is worth the effort getting there. 

If you’re not in the mood to walk, there are other options:

• Uber: From the city center, you should be able to get an Uber to the Sheep Heid Inn. However, the return trip is a different story. Since it is located in a very small village outside of town, Ubers can be very hard to find. We learned this the hard way! 
• Bus: Taking a bus will be the cheapest option (other than walking).
• Taxi: You can have the host at the Sheep Heid Inn call you a taxi to get you to your next destination.

Our advice: Visit the Sheep Heid Inn after hiking Arthur’s Seat

If you don’t mind a nice walk, we’d recommend visiting this pub after completing the hike to Arthur’s Seat (#3 on this list), as they are in the same general(ish) area of the city. Plus, grabbing a pint makes a great reward after completing your hike! 

Good to know: It is a 25-minute walk from the bottom of Arthur’s Seat to the Sheep’s Heid Inn. You will not want to return down the mountain the same way you climbed up. Instead, you’ll want to take the trail to the southwest and end near the Innocent Railway Tunnel , as this will be the quickest way to get to the pub.

4. Check out stunning Victoria Street

There are few places in Edinburgh more iconic and picturesque than Victoria Street. 

With a gentle slope and curve, photographers love this little corner of the city, and it’s easy to see why.

Colorful shop fronts represent all colors of the rainbow, from cheery orange to pastel pink to eye-popping blue. Overhead, brightly colored flags sometimes hang, billowing in the breeze.

Postcard perfection.

And as diverse as the color of their facades, a variety of businesses occupy these spaces. Pop into a cheesemonger selling artisan goods, browse an independent bookstore, grab a pint in a cozy pub, and shop for souvenirs in a wizard-themed gift store.

Speaking of wizards, it is rumored that J.K. Rowling gleaned inspiration from Harry Potter’s magical Diagon Alley from this very street. Even though Rowling denies the connection, Potterheads will still want to wander this street and imagine they’re collecting supplies for an upcoming year at Hogwarts.

Oh, and don’t think you need to be a Harry Potter fan to appreciate Victoria Street. It is truly one of the most beautiful (and most photographed) places in Edinburgh.

Feeling hungry?

While you’re on Victoria Street, grab a famous hog roast sandwich at Oink . It is quick, cheap and sure to satisfy the appetite you’ve worked up while wandering the city. Their menu is pretty simple: Choose the size, the bread, one topping and one sauce.

Our recommendations: pulled pork + haggis + homemade chili jam or pulled pork + sage & onion stuffing + apple. We split one of each, and they were both great.

Sit-down meals

If you’re looking for more of a sit-down meal, there are plenty more great options on Victoria Street:

• Bertie’s Proper Fish & Chips : Casual and sleek fish & chips joint featuring cocktails and desserts
• The Bow Bar : Cozy locale with a variety of whiskeys and pub fare
• The Grain Store : Upscale Scottish dining in an intimate venue

Located on the west end of the sprawling grassy park known as The Meadows, A Wee Taste makes a perfect place to stop for an afternoon nosh. 

Self-described as a “wine and grazing board bar”, you can count me in!

Choose from shareable cheese, meat, and dessert platters… or maybe a combination of all of the above! They also offer small bites, like olives, Scotch eggs, and baked camembert.

And you can’t forget a glass of vino! With a selection of wines from around the world, as well as gin and whiskey, you’ll have no problem finding the perfect pairing for your “grazing board”.

5. Wander the streets of Dean Village

Nestled along the banks of the River Leith just northwest of the city center, Dean Village is a quaint neighborhood that feels a world away from the bustling Royal Mile. 

Exploring the cobblestone streets of this bucolic village will make you feel as if you’ve been transported into centuries past.

Do it yourself

We created a guide to visiting Dean Village so you know exactly how to get there and what to expect.

6. Get fancy at afternoon tea

Afternoon tea is so much more than just a pot of steaming British Breakfast. 

Enjoy your own 3-tiered feast of tiny delights:

• Scones with clotted cream and jam. Of course.
• Savory finger sandwiches of all varieties. 
• Decadent desserts that look too pretty to eat. Almost.

Around the UK, afternoon tea is a thing ; and like I said, it’s much more than just tea.

Do yourself a favor and make a reservation during your time in Edinburgh.  

Our recommendation

Boasting the self-proclaimed “best afternoon tea in Edinburgh”, our top pick for afternoon tea would be at The Colonnades in the Signet Library. It’s a sophisticated venue offering unique and elevated flavors. It’s also widely popular, and for good reason, so you’ll have to make your reservation well in advance.

There are many places around the city for afternoon tea, so we created a guide to help you choose the best place to book your afternoon tea in Edinburgh . 

Read the descriptions, compare prices and availability ( many of these places book out in advance ) before choosing.

7. See sunset at Calton Hill

If you get one view of Edinburgh, let it be this one. Calton Hill is the spot to see the city from.

Calton Hill is an extinct volcano that straddles Old Town and New Town, and it offers unrivaled panoramic views of Edinburgh. Getting there requires just a quick and easy 5-minute walk up a short staircase.

We walked up here on our first morning in Edinburgh, and I got goosebumps at the view. From this vantage point, you can see the city, but you still feel like you’re in it , if that makes sense. 

I loved the view so much that we came back for a second time because I just had to see what it looked like at sunset. Admittedly, we came just a bit too late for the best lighting, but if you get up to this viewpoint for “golden hour”, you’ll have prime conditions.

By the way: The acropolis structure that sits on the top of the hill and looks as if it belongs in Greece instead of Edinburgh is the unfinished National Monument of Scotland.

8. Go on a free walking tour

We usually plan on taking a free walking tour on our first day in a new city. It is the best way to orient yourself and learn insider tips, all on a budget .

We’ve taken dozens of free walking tours all around the world (too many to count at this point!), and the tour in Edinburgh stands out as one of the best. Our guide, Groeme, is an Edinburgh native and did a fabulous job of introducing our large group to his hometown. 

By the end of this tour, we had seen many of the major Old Town Edinburgh attractions, learned a bit about the history and gleaned some local advice for how to spend the rest of our time in Edinburgh. 

The tour is free to book, but you must make a reservation in advance .

Important note on Free Walking Tours: This is a popular model for walking tours all around the world, and they all operate in the same way: While you don’t pay anything to book your spot on a tour, the guides work for tips. It is expected that you pay what you think the tour is worth. Keep this in mind as you’re planning.

9. Explore Edinburgh Castle

Touring Edinburgh Castle is one of the top attractions in the city and it is likely the most famous castle in Scotland .

On the grounds, be sure to stop inside St. Margaret’s Chapel. While it’s very small and not necessarily the most impressive building, at 900 years old, it is the oldest structure in Edinburgh.

You can also tour the exhibits of Prisoners of War and the Great Hall, as well as many others.

Insider Tip: We’d recommend getting an audio guide (£3.50) so you can explore the castle at your own pace but still soak in the information.

10. Get the best view of the Edinburgh Castle

Visiting the castle is cool indeed, but the best views of the iconic Edinburgh Castle are from outside the castle grounds. 

Whether you’re a budding photographer or just like a pretty viewpoint, the three stops below should be on your list of must-visit places in Edinburgh.

Princes Street Gardens (Ross Fountain)

For a real glimpse of how the castle towers over everything else in town, head to Princes Street Gardens where you’ll get a cool perspective looking up at the castle from down below. 

Photo tip: You can play around with different compositions, as there are trees and fountains that you can photograph with the castle looming behind. My personal favorite view of the castle from Princes Street Gardens is from Ross Fountain .

Perhaps the most iconic yet hidden vista, the Vennel viewpoint offers a unique view, with a narrow staircase in the foreground and the castle towering in the back. This spot is stunning rain or shine! 

Grassmarket

In the Grassmarket area, just in front of Cold Town House , look up and you’ll see a lovely view of the castle.

11. Visit the Palace of Holyroodhouse

Located on the east end of the Royal Mile, Holyroodhouse is the King’s official residence in Edinburgh . Visitors can explore inside the Royal family’s Scottish residence, and see both history and modern Royal life at the same time. 

Check ticket prices and make reservations here.

Holyrood or Edinburgh Castle?

If you only have time to see one, which should you choose? Well, it is entirely subjective, as they are quite different. 

We were in Scotland during the Queen’s funeral, and Holyrood Palace was closed indefinitely at the time. Since we were only able to visit Edinburgh Castle so we can’t personally speak to both.

However, a friend of mine who studied abroad in Scotland put it this way: 

• Edinburgh Castle is best for history buffs , as it is mostly ruins and wartime exhibits.
• Holyrood, on the other hand, is best for people who are interested in the Royal family and current goings-on , as it is a working palace where the Royals still spend time.

12. Wander the Royal Mile

The Royal Mile refers to streets that lead from the Edinburgh Castle in the west of town to Holyrood Palace in the east.

The distance between the two landmarks is roughly 1.81km, a measurement that was once known as a “Scots mile”. While it’s a bit longer than what we know as a mile today, the name still sticks.

The Royal Mile is the most crowded part of Edinburgh, but for good reason. 

Many of the city’s most famous landmarks can be found along this stretch of road :

• Edinburgh Castle
• St. Giles Cathedral
• Mary King’s Close
• Museum of Edinburgh
• Holyrood Palace

In addition to the iconic sights listed above, you’ll find all sorts of other places to check out. Excellent restaurants as well as overly touristy eateries; and cute boutiques as well as cheap souvenir shops. 

Even though it would take just 20 minutes to walk from one end to the other, you’ll definitely want to spend a fair amount of time wandering the Royal Mile.

If it is your first time in Edinburgh, we’d recommend staying near this area, as it will put you in close proximity to many of the top things to see and do. 

Our top hotel pick: This is the hotel we stayed at just off the Royal Mile and we couldn’t recommend it more! 

Fun Story: Our time in Edinburgh just happened to align with the Queen’s funeral (total coincidence!). Our hotel was just a half a block from the Royal Mile, which was closed to cars during this time. It turned out to be a once-in-a-lifetime experience, seeing the procession of the Queen’s coffin from Holyrood Palace to St. Giles Cathedral.

13. Explore the Closes

Wandering around the streets of Edinburgh, you’ll see all sorts of signs that have “close” in the name… 

So what is a close? 

That’s a great question (one we had too).

At first glance, they appear to be alleyways, but they are actually more than that.

On our Free Walking Tour of Edinburgh, our guide gave us the following analogy and we thought it was pretty spot on:

The Royal Mile is like the spine of Edinburgh , and the closes are like the arteries .

The closes are narrow pathways that lead off the main streets , and they often open up into small courtyards. The Royal Mile is crowded at all times, but if you walk into a close, you’ll escape all the people and feel a world away.

You won’t have to look far to see a close. Royal Mile itself has about 80 of them. 

Some of them have hidden cafes and others have small community gardens. You never know what you might find!

So go ahead and wander! 

14. Walk through Greyfriars Kirkyard

Wandering through this graveyard is one of the top things to do in Edinburgh , as it holds some interesting pieces of history.

Just so you know: Kirk is the Scottish word for church . It’s helpful to know this, as you’ll see the word everywhere in Scotland. 

The first burial in the cemetery took place in 1562, and today there are between 500,000 and 1 million bodies buried here. 

How is there such a large range? Well, during the Plague, people were dying so quickly that they were often buried together, without tombstones. So there is no way of knowing an exact count today.

Regardless of the exact count, it is one of the largest burial mounds on the planet.

Our recommendation is to go on a Free Walking Tour of Edinburgh (#7 on this list) so you can get all the interesting details, but here are a few notable sights:

Pay homage to the statue of Bobby the dog

Near Greyfriars Church stands a small statue of a dog and it is surrounded by flowers. It is one of the top sights in Greyfriars Kirkyard and often has a small crowd gathered nearby. 

If you plan on taking a free walking tour, I’ll leave it up to your guide to share the beautiful story with you. However, if you’d rather explore on your own, be sure to read up on the story behind this statue .

Find the “Harry Potter graves”

In this graveyard, fans of the series will recognize names on some of the tombstones, like Moodie, McGonagall and Tom Riddle. 

It can be a fun scavenger hunt to try to spot them. Or you can jump to #23 on this list to get the exact locations of each.

Fun Fact: Our tour guide told us that it is tradition amongst authors in Edinburgh to take names from gravestones to inspire characters in their novels. In a way, this sort of allows the people to live on. You’ll find a John Watson in this graveyard. And there was once a headstone for a man named Ebenezer Scroggie in Canongate Kirkyard (the headstone was removed during development, but it is said this is where Charles Dickens got the name.)

15. Experience the haunted side of Edinburgh

Being that it is such an old city with a storied past (oh, and there was that Bubonic Plague thing that came through) , it should come as no surprise that Edinburgh has its fair share of ghost stories.

From the real life Jekyll and Hyde to public hangings to a body snatching epidemic, there are a lot of tales to be told.

Taking a ghost tour is undoubtedly one of the best things to do in Edinburgh at night .

If you’re into spooky things, there are a few interesting tours that will give you a peek into Edinburgh’s dark side…

Free Ghost Tour

Budget travelers will be happy to hear that there is a Free Ghost Tour . This is the one we personally did. It was through City Explorers, which is the same company we booked our general walking tour through (which was fantastic). 

In truth, the ghost tour was just alright. It was mostly because we didn’t love the guide. The stories were quite interesting and it was fun wandering around the city with a local (and other travelers) at night, hearing spooky tales along the way. And oh man does Edinburgh have a lot of them!

Invisible Cities Crime & Punishment Tour

Not only will you learn about crime, hangings and jail, but by taking a tour with Invisible Cities , you will be supporting a very cool social enterprise. 

The tour guides of these walking tours are people who have experienced homelessness. Showing you around their city not only empowers them to build a new future for themselves, but it shows you a different perspective of the city as well.

Explore Edinburgh’s Underground Vaults

This popular tour brings guests into the mysterious Blair Street underground vaults where they will hear tales of torture and infamous murderers.

Take the infamous Mary King’s Close tour

​​Go beneath the Royal Mile to the city’s only street preserved just as it looked in the 17th century. On this infamous tour, Edinburgh’s darkest secrets will be revealed to you.

16. DIY Harry Potter tour

Calling all Potterheads!

While in Edinburgh, there are quite a few sights you’ll want to see. Call it an HP Pilgrimage, if you will.

But one thing I should mention first is that the Harry Potter movies were not filmed in Edinburgh, so there are no filming locations in the city. That said, there are still some very interesting things to see…

Guided Harry Potter Tour

• Option #1: This guided Harry Potter tour earns consistent rave reviews and is led by an animated guide who will bring the magic of Edinburgh alive.
• Option #2: If you’re traveling to Edinburgh on a budget, you’ll be happy to know that “The Potter Trail” tour is totally free! Reserve your spot here. Remember, that while the tour is free, it is expected you tip your guide if you enjoy the tour.

DIY Harry Potter Tour

However, if you want to see the sights on your own time, we’ve put together a DIY Harry Potter tour just for you!

• Victoria Street : Often referred to as the “real life Diagon Alley”, this street is downright beautiful. Take a stroll and pretend you’re shopping for a new wand! 
• Tom Riddle’s Grave
• William McGonagall Grave
• Elizabeth Moodie Grave
• FYI there was a fire here in the summer of 2022, so it has been boarded up during renovations. Be sure to check and see if it is open if you do in fact want to dine inside. 

Ready to have more magical fun?

While not exactly related to Harry Potter per se, these magical activities are perfect to carry on your wizarding fun throughout the evening!

• Make your own (drinkable!) potions at The Cauldron . After brewing up the perfect molecular cocktail using fire, smoke and dry ice, toast with your fellow witches and wizards to the perfect night in Edinburgh! 
• Challenge yourself at a magic-themed escape room. The Department of Magic is located in the heart of Old Town and has different puzzles you can solve in groups with as few as two people. They also have an attached magical cocktail bar. We’re huge escape room fans and think this would be a super fun way to spend part of an evening in Edinburgh!

17. Try Haggis with Neeps ‘n Tatties

There’s no Scottish food more famous than haggis.

But I’ll be the first to say that haggis doesn’t sound very appetizing.

If you type the phrase “what is haggis?” into Google, you’ll get the following description from Wikipedia:

“…savory pudding containing sheep’s pluck (heart, liver, and lungs), minced with onion, oatmeal, suet, spices, and salt […] and cooked while traditionally encased in the animal’s stomach…”

Yep. It’s enough to make one gag and vow to never, ever try haggis. 

But that would be a mistake, because it truly is delicious.  

First off, today haggis is not usually encased in the stomach. So don’t worry about that part. In fact, if you order haggis at a restaurant, it won’t come in any type of casing. Instead, it will appear similar to a ground and crumbly sausage, like chorizo.

So what does haggis taste like?

I’ll start by putting your fears to rest. 

Personally, I don’t care for organ meat, gamey flavors or chewy texture, and I actually really enjoyed haggis.

It tastes similar to regular ground sausage, with a rich, peppery flavor. The oats give it a thicker consistency and an almost nutty taste. And you might detect the same underlying flavors as liver paté.

It’ll typically be served atop “ neeps and tatties”, which is Scottish lingo for mashed turnips and potatoes. And you may have the option to add a whiskey gravy or mustard sauce.

Truly, it is pretty delicious, and if you can get past the ingredients, we’d highly encourage you to give it a taste!

Best haggis in Edinburgh

• Arcade Bar Haggis & Whisky House : We were told by a local that this is his favorite haggis in all of Edinburgh. (FYI Kids are not allowed so we were turned away.)
• The Haggis Box : Touristy? Yes. Convenient and quick way to try haggis? Also, yes. Allows children? Yup.

Best vegan haggis in Edinburgh

That’s right, vegetarians and vegans can try haggis too! Well, sort of…

It’s not haggis in the traditional sense, but there are vegetarian versions at restaurants all around the city.

• The Auld Hoose
• The Haggis Shop
• The Baked Potato Shop

18. Try a super unique ice cream flavor

My life motto is, “There’s always room for ice cream. Even if you’re full, it fills in all the cracks!”. So you better believe we got a scoop while in Edinburgh!

If you’ve got a craving only ice cream can satisfy, there are a couple of places in the city you’ll want to keep in mind. 

Both of these shops specialize in super high quality gelato, featuring inventive flavors you’ve probably never tried anywhere else.

Moo Pie Gelato

This teensy hole in the wall shop has just a few inventive flavors at a time – think Earl Grey shortbread, carrot cake and roasted banana. 

While it’s a small menu, what they make, they do well. They had a sesame cookie flavor while we were visiting and it was fantastic. 

They weren’t serving ice cream sandwiches on the day we visited, but we’ve heard they’re fab, as well as their hot chocolate with toasted marshmallow fluff.

Mary’s Milk Bar

This popular spot in Grassmarket often has a line and serves up top notch gelato, made fresh daily as well as hot chocolate. 

They have a variety of ever-changing flavors, highlighting unique combos, like pear & gorgonzola and rose & rhubarb sorbet. 

19. Do a Scotch whisky tasting

Scottish whisky, or simply Scotch , is a big deal in these parts. And if you’re a fan, you’ll certainly want to carve out some time to get your Scotch on !

Many pubs in Edinburgh – and all over Scotland, for that matter – offer whiskey tastings. Just ask!

Fun fact: In American English it is spelled whiskey (with an “e”). However, the British/Scottish spelling is whisky. So you’ll find both spellings in this article!

Sometimes there’s a set menu of different types of try. Other times, you can talk with the bartender and they can curate a tasting based on your preferences.

Enjoy a few drams of Scotch and see if you can find your favorite.

Good to know: A dram is the Scottish lingo for a swig or a shot of whiskey. 

If you’d rather go to an establishment that has a more educational approach (rather than just bellying up to the bar at a pub), here are some places to check out:

The Scotch Whisky Experience Tour & Tasting

Known for the World’s Largest Collection of Scotch Whisky , this tour is both educational and fun. You can select a couple of different tour options (each with a different number of tastings included). 

Insider Tip: Booking at the link below is the same price as tickets at the door, but you can skip the line!

Johnnie Walker

If you’re a fan of this label, plan to visit their spot on Princes Street for a whiskey-tasting experience.

The Scotch Malt Whisky Society

Staff at the Scotch Malt Whisky Society have a wealth of knowledge and they have some really good whiskey. Their tasting bar is open to non-members who want to experience Scotch in a laid back setting. No tours or tickets required.

Taste whiskey with a local

This “whisky and folklore” tour (through Airbnb Experiences) looks ahhhmazing. For one, it has nearly 2,000 5-star reviews. It’s affordable. You get to hang out with a local. And it takes place in a cozy pub we passed by at least 10 times; each time saying to ourselves, “ this place looks super cute – if only we weren’t traveling with a baby!”

Want to tour a distillery?

If you’re taking a road trip around Scotland , you can save your whiskey experience for later on your trip. There are plenty of distilleries to choose from, especially in the Highlands and the Isles, where you can learn about the production process.

20. Do a gin tasting

Raise your hand if you love a good G&T!

Heyyy! I know you can’t see me right now, but I have a hand in the air, too!

Well my friend, Scotland is a hotspot for our favorite spirit, and it’s the perfect place to do a wee tasting.

Many restaurants and bars throughout Scotland will have an extensive gin list, and they typically serve tonic in a bottle on the side so you can sip the spirit straight before blending to your desired taste.

But if you want a proper tasting experience, read on…

Tour a gin distillery

Summerhall Distillery has a long history producing Pickering Gin. It is the first gin exclusively distilled in Edinburgh – for more than 150 years. Their tour is said to be wonderful, and of course, includes a tasting.

Fun Fact: The current distillery was once part of a veterinary school.

The Edinburgh Gin Distillery is a perfect place to learn about the process of making this spirit, and to try some too, of course! 

Enjoy gin cocktails

• Heads & Tales is a bar specializing in gin cocktails, and not surprisingly, it is connected to the Edinburgh Gin Distillery. It feels like a hidden gem and the cocktails are truly top notch.
• Juniper is a cocktail bar with more than just a cool name (our daughter’s name is Juniper, so we’re biased!). They have all spirits, but they have an especially large list of gins from across Scotland. Enjoy a couple of cocktails paired with food for a fun evening in Edinburgh. 

Good to know: They also have whiskey flights here, so it’s a good spot for parties that have both a gin and a whiskey fan.

21. Make your own magical cocktail 

Fancy yourself a witch or wizard? 

Make your dreams come true at a magic-themed cocktail bar where you can conjure up a potion that tastes as good as it looks!

At The Cauldron, you can book a potion making experience during which you’ll be able to create two molecular cocktails from scratch.

Don your own wizard’s cloak and grasp a magic wand in hand, and watch as your potions bubble and smoke and steam in front of your eyes. 

Fire, dry ice and smoke, along with a technology-filled wand, all work together to make fantasy come to life , as The Cauldron’s tagline proudly boasts .   

If you want the magic without the work, you can simply book a table and order a cocktail from their whimsical menu, like the Bubbling Shot of Death or the Dragon’s Breath. 

Cocktails not your thing? The Cauldron has a magical afternoon tea experience that might be a little more up your alley! Plus, they have the option to make mocktails, which would be perfect if you’re traveling with children.

22. Experience Edinburgh’s lively nightlife scene

Edinburgh has a wide range of nightlife – from nightly live music to hidden speakeasies to DJ dance parties, the city really has it all. 

Let’s go over some of the best places to get a taste of Edinburgh’s nightlife scene:

• Stramash : Live music in a restored church.
• The Ensign Ewart : Cozy pub dating back to 1690 is a cool place to grab drinks and food in a historic setting.
• Whistlebinkies : Down-to-earth atmosphere with nightly live music, cask ales and whiskey. (Monday is open mic night.)
• Dragonfly : This classy cocktail bar features live plants and DJs on the weekends.
• Never Really Here : This intimate speakeasy style bar is known for its creative cocktail offerings. 
• The Three Sisters : Lively beer garden with indoor and outdoor space and a lively atmosphere during sporting events.
• Paradise Palms : Funky, tropical atmosphere with fun cocktails, vegetarian soul food and DJs. 

23. Walk through the Meadows with a hot chocolate in hand

This is one of the more laid back, yet still quintessential things to do in Edinburgh. 

Step 1. Grab a hot chocolate 

Brace yourself because I’m about to tell you where to get the best hot chocolate of your life. 

Yes, your life .

Start your morning at a small stand called Uplands Roast , located at the north end of The Meadows. Being that it’s located adjacent from the University of Edinburgh’s library, you’ll likely be standing in line amongst clusters of students waiting to get their caffeine (or sugar!) fix, but the line goes pretty quickly. 

The stars on the menu are their Vietnamese coffee (their beans are even sourced from Vietnam), and their hot chocolate. I’m not usually someone to order hot chocolate, but I couldn’t turn this one down. 

Once the hot chocolate is made, it is topped with chocolate shavings and marshmallows, which are then heated with a torch to get the perfect amount of toasted. 

I have to say that this ranks in the top 3 hot chocolates of my life, matching up only to true drinking chocolate I’ve sipped in Italy and Argentina.

Insider Tips: 

• If you want a little caffeine kick, add a shot of espresso to your cocoa, like we did. Highly recommend the buzzy boost.
• If you’re hungry, there’s a sausage roll stand right next to this booth, and it is delish!

Step 2. Walk through The Meadows

Now that you’ve successfully completed step 1 (aka you’ve got your hot chocolate in hand), wander through The Meadows. This wide grassy expanse is a popular hangout for University of Edinburgh students.

Walk past discussion groups and hacky sack circles (yes, they’re back, folks!), and take a moment to imagine yourself as a student here…

Quick story: I was actually pretty close to enrolling in a masters program at the University of Edinburgh in sustainable tourism. So wandering about The Meadows amongst all the students really made me wonder what could have been. Le sigh…

24. Take a bike tour of Edinburgh

If you want to really pack in as much as possible during a short trip to Edinburgh, you may want to skip the walking tour and opt instead for a bike tour. This way, you can cover far more ground than you can on foot.

This bike tour , from A Wee Pedal, earns rave reviews, with guests saying, 

“Bikes were excellent quality and well maintained. Leanne we very friendly and interested in our small group, happy to ride at our pace and make recommendations for nice local treats at a quaint cafe near the beach. The kids rated this as number one experience of the weeks holiday in Edinburgh, I kid you not! We will defo be back! Thanks Leanne for a great day.”

The tour brings you from the oldest pub in Scotland (see #4) all the way to the coast at Portobello beach. You’ll stop at many other top attractions in Edinburgh along the way, making it a perfect way to see a lot in a short amount of time.

25. Catch a film in the Scotsman Picturehouse

If you happen to be in Edinburgh on a rainy day – and let’s be real, the chances of this happening are quite high – we’ve got a pretty cool idea for you…

See a movie at the Scotsman Picturehouse! Located inside the iconic Scotsman Hotel between Old Town and New Town, if you’re looking for things to do in Edinburgh on a rainy day, this is a great option !

Now before you roll your eyes, this theater isn’t like your typical cinema. With just 48 seats – or to be more specific, red leather arm chairs – this intimate venue is AMC’s fancy step sister. Or maybe there is no relation at all because she bougie. 

On either side of each seat is a dimly-lit lamp, and the room itself is handsomely appointed with crown molding and an intricate ceiling. Instead of sticky floors and questionable seats of a normal movie theater, the Scotsman Picturehouse oozes charm and opulence, making viewers feel as if they’ve been transported back to the time when going to the cinema was a luxe affair. 

Oh, and you can enjoy the big screen with a cocktail in hand.

Like we said, not your typical movie theater experience.

The picturehouse has a diverse screening schedule. From classic films, like Breakfast at Tiffany’s, to modern hits, independent productions, and cultural showcases such as ballets and opera, there’s sure to be something for everyone.

Search your travel dates and see what films are playing . You can make your reservation online (£1.50 booking fee) to ensure you have a seat. Remember there are just 48 seats available, so they do book up in advance. 

Cost: Standard ticket is £16, and a sofa ticket is £32 (and includes two seats). There are also student discounts.

Good to know: Unlike typical movie theaters, the Scotsman Picturehouse doesn’t show a seemingly endless array of trailers before the feature film begins. For this reason, it’s important to actually arrive on time. Or 15 minutes early, as they recommend. We’d advise getting there even a bit earlier if possible so you can grab a drink in their adjoining bar so you can truly get the whole experience.

Unfortunately for those traveling with kiddos, this is an adults-only movie theater. I know, I know, we were bummed too.

26. Enjoy traditional Scottish folk music in a pub

There’s truly no better way to spend a night in Edinburgh than with a pint and live music.

That’s what the Scots would call “a good craic”. Aka a good time.

So where do you go to catch live music? Just about any pub. Wander around near your hotel and pop into the coziest pub you see. Chances are they’ll have traditional music late in the evening, and there’s no doubt they’ll have beer and whiskey.

Want some ideas of where to start?

• The Waverly Bar : We walked past this place a bunch, as it was near our hotel and it looked like a really fun place to grab a pint. 
• Dirty Dick’s Pub : Yikes, that name! But it does look like a good time!

27. Eat Indian food

When in Scotland, do as the Scots do, right?

Well, then dining on Indian food should be part of your Edinburgh itinerary. 

Indian is one of the favorite cuisines in Scotland (and in the UK in general). The country has a longstanding love affair with dishes from this former British colony. In fact, Indian is the most popular type of takeaway food in Scotland ( it’s true! ).

While you’ll find excellent Indian food all around the country, Edinburgh has its fair share of gems.

Often making the lists of the best restaurants in Edinburgh, Dishoom is an elevated dining experience featuring shareable dishes, a large vegan menu, and handcrafted cocktails. 

Known for their haggis pokhara, which is a distinctly Scottish twist on an Indian favorite, Pakora Bar has a cozy atmosphere and reasonably priced food.

* Currently closed as they are moving locations

Mother India’s Cafe

A buzzy restaurant serving Indian classics such as curries, samosas and lassis. We ordered takeout from Mother India’s Cafe during our time in Edinburgh, and it was excellent.

28. Go vegan for a day

When you think of Scottish cuisine, haggis, fish ’n chips, and shepherd’s pies all come to mind in all their carnivore glory. But we were surprised to find that amongst all the meat-centric menus in town, there is actually a burgeoning vegan scene.

Whether you’re fully veg or you’re just looking for some lighter fare to balance out all that haggis, you’re sure to find what it is your vegetable-loving heart is searching for.

Oh, and while we’re on the topic, there are many places around the city to try a vegan version of haggis (see #15 on this list)!

• Our experience: Their breakfast sandwiches sound like what you’d find at any bakery — “eggs” and “bacon”, but they are fully vegan. They are also delish and big enough to split. They have a variety of scrumptious vegan baked goods. We loved the cookie butter cruffin (I still dream about it, so if it’s in the bakery case I’d highly recommend grabbing one, or two!).
• Soul Vegan : Vegan Malaysian dishes, including rave-worthy laksa. 
• Holy Cow Cafe : Cozy eatery featuring vegan burgers, sandwiches and bowls.
• Novapizza : Vegan Italian fare with a focus on pizzas and pastas.
• David Bann Restaurant : Eclectic vegetarian fine dining.
• Paradise Palms : Vibrant vegetarian and vegan soul food served in a funky, tropical atmosphere. This doubles as a cocktail bar and often has a DJ later in the evening.
• Seeds for the Soul : Healthy bowls and wraps as well as decadent vegan desserts
• Hendersons : Sleek vegetarian restaurant serving upscale meals. This is known to be one of the best spots in the city to try vegan haggis.

Good to know: In addition to restaurants that are totally vegetarian or vegan, many places around town have a vegan menu in addition to their regular offerings. So whether you’re a vegetarian or a carnivore, you’ll have no problem eating well in Edinburgh!

29. Graze on a charcuterie platter almost too beautiful to eat

30. Cozy up with a drink in these Secret Domes

These secret domes look so freaking cool! 

Perched on the rooftop of Cask Smugglers , these transparent domes provide guests with sweeping views atop the city, with the Edinburgh Castle front and center. 

Sip an Old Fashioned or a Bramble (gin, lemon and black currant) and take in the views as you graze on a beautifully-curated charcuterie board.

Does this sound like the perfect evening to anyone else?!

I was stoked to sip a cocktail with a view of the city in a cozy little snow globe-thing (one of the only cool things to come out of the “Covid era”), but alas, they do not allow anyone under 18 in their globes. 

Womp, womp. (But I get it.)

If you are traveling sans kids, do me a favor and order a gin and tonic here for me! Bonus points if you send me a pic!

Be sure to make a reservation here , as the domes do fill up. Note that you will need to provide your credit card to hold your spot. If possible, try to time your visit around the sunset hour so you can enjoy Mother Nature’s nightly show of colors.

You’ll need to select whether you’ll be enjoying only drinks (cocktails, wines and beer) or ordering from their small, but nice, food menu as well (think charcuterie boards, and small bites, like olives and bread). Check out the menu here . 

Good to know: There is an hour and a half time limit, so other guests can enjoy the domes. 

31. Discover the dark secrets of Mary King’s Close

Discover Edinburgh’s hidden history on this fully-guided tour of the preserved 17th century street beneath the Royal Mile, known as Mary King’s Close. Step back in time and find out how the Close, which used to be a bustling trading street open to the skies, came to be underground. 

Voted Scotland’s Best Heritage Tourism Experience, you’ll learn some of the intriguing stories of Edinburgh’s past residents, from a deadly plague to famous royal visitors. 

What you need to know

• Duration: 1 hour
• Price: $25.33 USD per person
• Meeting point
• Not suitable for children under 5 or those that suffer from claustrophobia, and wheelchair inaccessible

What guests are saying:

“Fantastic, and surprising. I’ve been on a few tours now and this one was NOT hokey like some of the others! […] As a history graduate, I was awed to see this part of Edinburgh’s underground history, which can’t be accessed on your own due to the need for preservation. To walk this hidden Close, to see these amazingly preserved areas and to hear the true history – not the myth we’ve all been told – was a privilege. Would definitely recommend.” – Claire, New Zealand (September, 2022)

32. Walk to Cramond Island at low tide

If you’re looking for a free and unique thing to do in Edinburgh, exploring this tidal island will be right up your alley. 

At low tide a paved walkway is revealed, leading adventurous explorers to this interesting island that holds more than one role in history.

From a Roman defense location, to an area for sheep to graze, to a farmstead to a strategic place in both World War I and II, Cramond Island has known many purposes.

Cramond Island Walk

The pathway to get to this island is roughly 1 mile (1.6 km) long, but if you plan to explore the island, it’ll nearly double the distance one way. 

Distance: roughly 3.7 miles (6km), round trip walk, including exploring the island itself

Cramond Island Trail Notes

During high tide, several feet of seawater cover the walkway, rendering it uncrossable; so planning your timing accordingly is key. 

Cone-shaped concrete structures line the walkway, and are the most photographable feature of this path. Fun Fact: These were installed during World War II as a submarine defense.

To get to the island using public transport, you can take bus 41 from Princes Street toward Cramond. The bus stops just outside Cramond Kirk Hall (church), and from there it’s just a short walk to the causeway.

True Story: We have a good friend who got stranded on the island when the tide came in and she had to call the Coast Guard! So learn from her and be sure you check the tides before you go .

Insider Tip: If you have more time to explore after your visit to Cramond Island, head south of the water toward Cramond Falls . Continue on River Almond Walkway for a tranquil path that few tourists ever see.

33. Explore Leith

This up-and-coming city is a historic port on the north shore of Edinburgh known for its booming dining and art scene. The neighborhood has undergone some serious change in the last 10 years and is now described as one of the coolest ‘hoods in Edinburgh. 

Be sure to check out The Shore, a highlight of the neighborhood with an abundance of water-front restaurants, Leith Walk, which is the main shopping area, and the historic port on the Firth of Forth. 

How to get there: 

You can easily walk to this area via the Leith Walk, a mile-long stretch of road connecting to the east end of Princes Street in Old Town. 

If you don’t feel like walking, it’s a short Uber ride away. The two bus lines that take you to Leith are 33 or 35. There is also a tram connecting the center of the town to Newhaven, via Leith Walk, that will be available in the near future. 

34. Have a mini picnic at St. Bernard’s Well 

Along the Water of Leith, there is a path through lush foliage that leads to a small structure known as St. Bernard’s Well. Inside the historic well is a statue of the Greek goddess of health, Hygeia, which is a nod to the spring waters that were rumored to have healing properties.

While the well is interesting to see, the main draw is that this portion of the river feels like a tranquil oasis from the city streets. 

Take a seat on one of the many benches that dot the path. Take a few moments to rest your feet and find a few moments of zen. Enjoy a book or just sit and people-watch, as this is a popular running trail and place for locals to walk their dogs.

Make it a picnic

If you’re a lover of cheese (hello, bestie!), we’ve got the perfect idea for you…

On your way to St. Bernard’s Well, stop at this cheesemonger shop and sample a few local artisan cheeses. Choose your favorite and do as the Scots do by grabbing a package of oatcakes to pair with it. To really round it out, we’d recommend also picking up a chutney or marmalade (we’re big fans of onion jam). 

If you want something more, grab one (or two!) of their hand pies. We had the turmeric cauliflower pie and it was fantastic. I would go back again just for that! They also have Scotch eggs and a handful of other small bites that are perfect for carrying with you to enjoy near St. Bernard’s Well.

You’ll thank us later!

Pair a visit to St. Bernard’s Well with a stroll around Dean Village (see #5) for the perfect afternoon!

35. Walk through a mural-covered tunnel

The Colinton Station & Tunnel is a bit of a ways from the city center, but for travelers who like to get well off the beaten path, walking through this mural-covered tunnel will be a highlight of your time in Edinburgh. 

This tunnel is a popular place for locals to go running or walk their dogs, but not many tourists every see this piece of art.

Once a Victorian railway tunnel, the Colinton Mural Project began in 2016 as a way to bring new life into a scary, dark and dingy tunnel. 

And what a transformation it was!

The tunnel is now well-lit and covered completely in colorful, uplifting artwork and draws people from all over the city. 

How to get there: Take Bus 16 toward Colinton. From the final stop it is just a short walk to the entrance of the tunnel.

36. Laugh the night away at a Comedy show

One thing we love checking out in big cities around the world is comedy clubs. It can be a really fun and unique way to spend an evening on the town amongst locals and other travelers. 

And Edinburgh may just be one of the best places in the world to check out a comedy show because it is known for its legendary venues and unrivaled funny bone.

Here are two of the best-known venues in Edinburgh to see a comedy show:

In some circles, The Stand is regarded as one of the top venues for comedy in the world, playing host to well-known comedians touring the world as well as local hopefuls that get up on stage during frequent open mic nights.

There are shoes nearly every night, so you should be able to catch one during your time in Edinburgh. 

Tickets range depending on the type of show, from just £5 for shows featuring new comedians to £20+. 

Check out what shows will be on during the time of your trip to Edinburgh and grab tickets here . (They do sell out in advance, so get your seats if you really want to see a show.) 

Monkey Barrel

Monkey Barrel earns rave reviews, earning it the title of Edinburgh’s top-rated comedy club. A couple of times a month (on Mondays), the Monkey Barrel hosts a “free for all” open mic night, where there are no tickets and you can come and go as you please.

They also host larger shows requiring tickets. Check out their lineup here to see if you’re able to catch a show while you’re in town. We’d recommend booking tickets in advance, as they do sell out.

37. Go museum hopping (for FREE!)

What do you think all of the museums below have in common…?

• The Scottish National Gallery
• National Museum of Scotland
• Writer’s Museum
• Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art

Would you believe me if I told you they are all totally FREE to visit? 

They’ll cost you nothing. 

Zip. Nada. 

And actually, that’s not even the full list of free museums. Most in the country are free to visit. Get the full list here .

38. Attend one of Edinburgh’s famous festivals

Edinburgh claims to be the “world’s leading festival city” , boasting unique and exciting festivals all year long. 

But the king of them all – the crème de la crème – is the Fringe Festival , which takes place for nearly the entire month of August each year. 

Fringe claims to be “the single greatest celebration of arts and culture on the planet” , drawing performers and visitors from around the globe. 

Since 1947, Fringe Festival has been a place for people to share their talents and love of theater, comedy, music, art and all types of performance. 

One thing that makes this festival especially unique is that it is an open-access format, meaning anyone can be a performer. 

During Fringe, hundreds of stages are set up throughout the city with thousands of performers – from big names to, well, anyone looking to share their passion.  

We first heard about this world-renowned festival from a couple we met while hiking to Everest Base Camp . They went each year to share their own talents, and they sure piqued our interest! However, when we looked into visiting during Fringe Festival, we realized booking during this ultra popular time of the year had its own challenges (and cost!). 

More on that below…

Something to consider about Fringe Festival 

Depending on your travel style, you may want to plan your visit around this festival or avoid it at all costs. The population of Edinburgh nearly doubles during the month of August each year, meaning that it gets incredibly crowded and you’ll be paying peak prices for just about everything. 

We heard from more than one local that they hate the entire month of August because, and I quote: “the city feels like Disney World”. But if the crowds don’t deter you, you’ll be able to experience a world-class festival in one of the world’s coolest cities.

39. Eat at one of Edinburgh’s Michelin Star restaurants

Renowned for its thriving food scene, it’s no surprise that Edinburgh is home to multiple restaurants with the top accolades of Michelin Stars. In fact, the city has 4 in total!

Whether you’re looking for elevated Scottish fare or something new and exciting, these restaurants have you covered. 

• Number One : One of the highest-rated restaurants in all of Edinburgh, this classic fine dining establishment is serving up sophisticated Scottish fare. 
• Condita : With just 6 tables, this contemporary hidden gem serves up seasonal ingredients on their ever-changing surprise tasting menu. 
• The Kitchin : With the namesake of its famed chef, Tim Kitchin, this contemporary restaurant celebrates Scottish food with seasonal ingredients and French techniques. 
• Restaurant Martin Wishart : The multi-award winning chef heads up this fine dining establishment in Leith, known as one of the best restaurants in Edinburgh. 

40. Shop the Edinburgh Farmers Market

If you’re visiting Edinburgh on a Saturday, why not pop into the Edinburgh Farmers Market. The lively outdoor market is a great place to find locally sourced produce, meats, cheeses, baked goods and even beer! 

Make your way around the 35+ stalls as you nibble on samples and load up on goodies. 

The market is open year-round, every Saturday from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. on the Castle Terrace, right next to Edinburgh Castle. 

• Official website
• Exact location

There really is no wrong time of year to plan a visit to Edinburgh. In terms of weather, it never really gets super hot or super cold, so most things to do in Edinburgh are available year-round.

It is important to note that summer is the rainiest season in Scotland (including Edinburgh), whereas spring and fall are the driest. 

In our opinion, visiting Edinburgh in May or September would be best, so you have the best chance of warmer, drier weather and fewer crowds. 

Summer in Edinburgh brings warmer temperatures and of course there’s the famed Edinburgh Fringe Festival each August that draws a huge crowd (accommodation books up months in advance and prices will be sky-high!). 

We’d advise you to avoid visiting Edinburgh during the month of August unless you’re planning to attend The Fringe and can plan your trip well in advance. 

Psst! For an in-depth guide on the seasonal weather patterns and other factors, check out our complete guide on the best time to visit Scotland .

Getting around Edinburgh

The very best way to get around Edinburgh is by walking!

Edinburgh’s Old Town truly is very walkable (if you don’t mind putting on 10,000+ steps in a day!). 

That said, you’ll likely want to venture outside this area at some point. Below are the best ways to get around.

From Old Town, getting an Uber isn’t too difficult. That said, outside of this area, it can be a bit tricky, which we were not expecting. 

Even at the airport, we were waiting to “get connected to a driver”. It eventually worked, but we were a little worried. 

When we were on the outskirts of town a couple of times, Uber just never connected us to a driver. The wheel kept spinning until we realized it just wasn’t gonna happen and got our booties into a bus!

The bus system in Edinburgh is actually pretty good. You may have to do a bit of walking to get to and from the stops, but it’s affordable, punctual and reliable. 

Self-driving 

If you’re planning to rent a car in Scotland , we’d recommend waiting until after your time in Edinburgh. It wouldn’t be very fun driving the city, and parking can be tricky to find (not to mention, expensive!). Our advice is to save your rental car for when you leave the city to go on an epic Scottish road trip ! 

From the airport to the city

Tram: 

Taking the tram from the airport to Edinburgh city center is the easiest and most convenient way to arrive. Trams run every 7 minutes from the hours of 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. and every 15 minutes outside of those hours. 

The airport tram stop is right outside the main terminal next to the plaza and Edinburgh sign.

Services run between the airport and York Place in the Edinburgh city center and make 15 stops along the way. A one-way adult ticket is just £6.50 and can be purchased at the ticket machines at every stop. 

The Airline 100 Bus also runs between Edinburgh Airport and the city center. Departures from the airport are every 30 minutes from 1:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m., then every 10 minutes from 4:00 p.m. to 12:10 a.m. The journey is about 25 minutes (depending on traffic). A ticket costs £4.50 and can be paid to the driver as you board.

Uber also works in Edinburgh, but is a much more expensive option. You can expect to pay around £17-24 for a one way ride to the city center. 

Best places to eat in Edinburgh

Edinburgh has a plethora of amazing restaurants – from cozy cafes to hole-in-the-wall pubs to fine dining, there’s truly something for everyone.

Insider Tip: If you’re walking around and you get hungry, open Google Maps and read reviews of the surrounding restaurants to choose a good one. This is what we always do when we’re planning a trip .

You should have no problem finding fantastic places to eat in Edinburgh, but if you want a few key restaurant recommendations, here ya go! (FYI most of these places are in the Old Town area.)

• The Edinburgh Larder : Cute cafe and adjoining coffee shop that serves excellent breakfast and brunch offerings as well as top-notch coffee. This was just next to our hotel (which we highly recommend!), and we loved grabbing breakfast here!
• Rocksalt Cafe : Excellent coffee and baked items at reasonable prices. 
• Oink : With three locations in Edinburgh (we recommend stopping while you’re on Victoria Street!), this pulled pork sandwich shop has a very small menu, but what they do have, they do well. Choose your bread, your sandwich size, your sauce and your topping: haggis or sage & onion stuffing. 
• The Banh Mi Bar : For a quick lunch, this place has excellent Vietnamese street fare, and is conveniently located in the city center.
• Guajira Café & Coffee : For something totally different, this pocket-sized Caribbean cafe serves delicious sandwiches and smoothies and the owner is very friendly.
• The Haggis Box : Located inside the Scottish Storytelling Center, this small haggis shop is a casual and convenient place to try this national dish.

Scottish Pubs

• Arcade Bar Haggis & Whisky House : We were told by a local that this is his favorite haggis in all of Edinburgh. Plus, it makes a great place to sample local whiskeys in a cozy pub atmosphere. (FYI Kids are not allowed.)
• Cafe Royal : This historic pub has beautiful architecture and stained glass windows, and they serve a variety of whiskies and are known for their seafood specials.
• The Bow Bar : Cozy pub on Victoria Street serving pub fare.
• Under the Stairs : Hidden-feeling gastropub with fantastic drinks and food.
• The Standing Order : Former bank converted into a bustling pub with an all-day menu.
• Amber Restaurant : Connected with the Scottish Whisky Experience, this is no doubt a touristy restaurant, but it is actually a good one. With traditional Scottish cuisine and the option to do a 3-course meal with whisky pairings, the food, service and atmosphere all earn rave reviews.

International

• The Pakora Bar : Famed for their haggis pakoras, this Indian joint has a welcoming and eclectic atmosphere and serves classic Indian dishes.
• Dishoom : Often making the lists of the best restaurants in Edinburgh, Dishoom is an elevated dining experience featuring shareable dishes, a large vegan menu, and handcrafted cocktails. 

Fine Dining

Where to stay in edinburgh.

If you are visiting Edinburgh for the first time, we’d 100% recommend staying in Old Town (and we’ve got a top hotel rec for ya !). 

Old Town is defined as the area between the Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace, between which stretches the Royal Mile.

If you stay in this area, you’ll be within walking distance to most of the major attractions in Edinburgh. If you stay outside of Old Town, you will need to rely on taxis and public transportation if you plan to see most of the top sights.

Budget recommendation

Castle Rock Hostel : Consistently rated the best hostel in Edinburgh, Castle Rock has a mix of accommodation offerings ranging in price, from private rooms to gender-separated dormitories. The central location is unbeatable and we love that the property is carbon neutral and encourages environment-friendly practices. 

Mid-range budget / couples stays

Linton Blackfriars Lofts : We stayed at Blackfriars Loft and couldn’t recommend it highly enough. The location is absolutely perfect as a base for exploring the city, and the space is super comfortable. 10/10 from us!

Destiny Scotland – Royal Mile Residence : With a prime location, right on the Royal Mile, these modern, serviced apartments offer a range of different accommodations from single to 3 room apartments. 

Cheval Old Town Chambers : These modern luxury apartments are in a super central location, just a 2 minute walk from the Waverley Train Station in Old Town. The beautifully decorated apartments are available in 1, 2, and 3 bedroom plans. 

Psst! If hotel stays aren’t your thing, we have a curated list of the best Edinburgh Airbnbs for you to browse!

Splurge stay

The Balmoral : As the number one luxury hotel in Edinburgh, The Balmoral is somewhat of an icon. Located on Princes Street, you’ll have views of Edinburgh Castle and Old Town from nearly every room. The elegant hotel is home of the Michelin-starred Number One, an onsite spa and stocked whiskey bar.

What to pack for Edinburgh

With variable weather conditions, excellent hiking opportunities, and plenty of city life, there are a few things you definitely don’t want to forget when you’re packing for your trip to Edinburgh.

Check out the  exact items we recommend  for traveling in Scotland. 

• rain jacket (make sure it’s waterproof, not just water resistant)
• travel umbrella
• dry bag : to keep your valuables from getting wet on a hike
• Lots of layers
• Comfortable walking shoes
• A couple nicer outfits for eating out
• Camera and  lightweight tripod  (optional)

Be sure to download our  complete packing list for Scotland !  It’s packed with good suggestions and  insider tips  to help plan your Scotland trip. And it’s completely  FREE , so why not!?

Round up of the best things to do in Edinburgh

Here’s a recap of all the best things to do in Edinburgh so you can see everything in one place.

• Scottish food tour
• Arthur’s Seat
• Sheep Heid Inn
• Victoria Street
• Dean Village
• Afternoon tea
• Calton Hill
• Free Walking Tour
• Views of Edinburgh Castle
• Palace of Holyroodhouse
• Greyfriars Kirkyard
• Haunted Edinburgh tour
• DIY Harry Potter tour
• Haggis with  Neeps ‘n Tatties
• Scotch whisky tasting
• Scottish gin
• Magical cocktail making experience
• The Meadows
• Bike tour of Edinburgh
• Scotsman Picturehouse
• Scottish folk music
• Indian food
• A Wee Taste charcuterie
• Secret Domes
• Cramond Island
• St. Bernard’s Well 
• Colinton Station & Tunnel
• Comedy show
• Michelin star dining
• Edinburgh Farmers Market

Are you planning a trip to Scotland?

We have lots of resources on travel in Scotland and destinations throughout the country. Check out our  Scotland Travel Homepage  for everything you need to know, or read some of our favorite articles below.

• How to Get From London to Edinburgh
• Dean Village: Edinburgh Cutest Neighborhood
• Best Airbnbs in Edinburgh
• How to Get From Edinburgh to Glasgow

Save this article on Pinterest for later!

We want to hear from you!

Which of these fun things to do in Edinburgh has made its way to the top of your list? Are there any experiences you think we are missing? Leave your comment below and let us know!

Comments (5) on “ 40 Insanely Fun Things to do in Edinburgh ”

Absolutely amazing blog, thank you so much for your detailed post! It really helped me plan for my upcoming trip in December!

Quite honestly, I have never felt the need to leave a comment on a blog until now. I’m travelling to Scotland in some time and have almost no time to plan. This blog gave me EVERYTHING. I love it – thankyou so much!

Great blog! Heading to Edinburgh with a 1 year old soon. Any special recommendations for to see and do with that age group? Will definitely be doing an afternoon tea with her!

Fantastic post – chock full of information and great links. Thank you!

You are very welcome, Greg! Glad you liked the article. When are you planning on traveling to Edinburgh?

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

The home of inspiring holidays

Open up a world of unique experiences on your next holiday. See a new side to some of the world’s most beautiful destinations and discover the culture, history and people that make them so captivating.

Explore our stunning city breaks, relaxing family holidays, intimate small group adventures, inspiring cruises - and travel packages for the independently minded. We only work with the highest quality tour operators - to ensure that every moment of your holiday is second to none.

what's booking

Adventure holidays

River cruise holidays

UK cottage breaks

UK holidays

Uk holidays.

Wimbledon Tennis Break - Three days (including coach transfers)

Wimbledon Tennis & London Break - Two Days (make your own way)

Wimbledon tennis & london break - three days (make your own way).

Belfast & the Titanic Experience

Edinburgh Christmas Markets

Belfast & the titanic experience - 5 days.

Self-guided

Keswick: Lake District centre based walking

Keswick is a bustling market town established in 1276 located in the north of the English Lake District and dubbed the...

Highlights of the Great Glen Way

Experience the highlights of the Scottish Highlands as you follow the Great Glen Way from Fort Augustus to Inverness....

Flight free

Highlights of the Cornish Coast

Experience three of Cornwall’s most charming seaside resorts on this relaxing holiday by train. Your first stop is the...

escorted tours

Dubrovnik, Montenegro & the Dalmatian Coast

from £1,149

Medieval buildings, romantic squares, pretty canals, world-class art; Bruges is a lavish feast for the eyes. This being...

Paris was, is and always will be, something rather special. So if you have an anniversary to celebrate, a family get...

Spirit of Krakow

Rivalling Prague’s beauty, the home of Copernicus and Pope Jean-Paul II, 6,000 historic buildings, one of Europe’s finest...

Andre Rieu New Year's Concert in Amsterdam

On Safari in Kruger National Park

Small group adventures.

Small group

Georgia: Land of Myths and Mountains

from £1,780

Georgia’s beauty is legendary and takes many forms. From the cobbled streets and hidden squares of old Tbilisi to the...

Save £100pp

Mt Toubkal Long Weekend

Mount Toubkal, known locally as Jebel Toubkal, stands 13,671ft (4,167m) above sea level and commands superb panoramic...

Marrakech & the Sahara

from £1,049

Experience the grandeur of the Sahara as we journey from Marrakech across the High Atlas Mountains to the palm groves of...

Walking in North Cyprus

from £1,249

North Cyprus: Unknown to many, yet decorated with countless historic treasures. This walking adventure uncovers a land...

Sierra de Aitana Trek

from £1,449

Although close to the Costa Blanca, the dramatic massif of Sierra de Aitana has remained a secret from all but a few...

Walking the Picos de Europa

from £1,495

The Picos de Europa, the third-highest mountain range in Spain, is a region of dramatic limestone peaks and lush valleys....

Walking the Island of Madeira

from £1,499

Discover the wild and varied scenery of Madeira, from gentle strolls along flower-lined levadas (centuries-old waterways)...

Highlights of Morocco

from £1,545

Experience the very best of Morocco, from mazey medinas and lively souks to the broad-shouldered Atlas Mountains and...

Walking in Northern Albania - Into the Accursed Mountains

Extending across vistas liberally scattered with deep river valleys, alpine lakes and national parks, the towering...

river cruise holidays

Amsterdam, Kinderdijk and the Dutch Bulbfields River Cruise - MS Emily Brontë

The Danube's Imperial Cities and Yuletide Markets River Cruise - MS William Wordsworth

from £1,199

Enjoy a guided tour of the fascinating Hungarian capital Budapest, imperial city of two halves straddling the mighty...

Danube Christmas Markets

from £1,438

The Danube's Imperial Cities and Yuletide Markets River Cruise - MS Thomas Hardy

Solo travel

Amsterdam, Kinderdijk and the Dutch Bulbfields River Cruise for solo travellers - MS Geoffrey Chaucer

from £1,549

Experience historic maritime cities, where innovation meets the traditions of the past, plus the authenticity of iconic...

Rhine Christmas Markets

from £1,578

Douro, Porto and Salamanca River Cruise - MS Douro Elegance

from £1,599

One of Europe’s best kept secrets in one of its most undiscovered corners, explore the sleepy villages and medieval towns...

Rhine and Moselle River Cruise - MS Emily Brontë

from £1,614

Explore the historic cities of the mighty Rhine and the quintessential half-timbered wine villages of the serene Moselle,...

Burgundy, the River Rhône and Provence River Cruise - MS Lord Byron

from £1,699

Last Minute Holiday Deals

If you are looking for a holiday last minute, then we've got you covered. We offer affordable last minute holidays from  cruise deals , to cottages , rail journeys , Eurostar breaks  and more.

• Skip to main content
• Skip to primary sidebar
• Skip to footer

The Top 14 Things To Do in Edinburgh in 2024

Fey Arberk Bozoglu Last Updated: October 26, 2023

If you are planning to visit the beautiful city of Edinburgh, we’ve got you covered for fun activities to do. This list comprises not only the top things to do in Edinburgh, but also the cultural gems located here. From the Edinburgh Castle to the Scotch Whiskey Experience, this list will provide you with the full Edinburgh experience.

Pro Tip: Bookmark this article if you plan on visiting Edinburgh or want to see the top things to do here! Also, if you’re craving food here don’t forget to check out our recommendations for the best restaurants in Edinburgh .

14 Best Things To Do, Eat, and Explore in Edinburgh

Edinburgh has one of the most interesting and historical atmospheres in the British Isles. Our list aims to shine light on the top things to do in Edinburgh with 14 distinct attractions. Certainly, visit these places and experience them! You won’t be disappointed because each place is marvellous in their own way, whether it’s enjoying nature or learning the history of Scotland.

You can explore and tour many places, for example: Edinburgh Castle, Forth Bridge, the Royal Botanic Garden, and on and on. There is an extensive amount of things to do here, which makes it difficult to reduce our list. In other words, you’ll find plenty of fun, free, and interesting things to do in Edinburgh.

Our Partnership with Booking.com.  If you like our content, please book by clicking on our Booking.com links. The price is the same for you, and we get a small commission that helps support our blog. We’ve partnered with Booking.com because they have the most options, great prices, and a solid loyalty program. Just about every hotel is on Booking so our recommendations are not incentivized.

14) Visit The Royal Botanic Garden

The Royal Botanic Garden is an essential place to visit in Edinburgh, because it dates back to 17 th century. This attraction is both a tourist and local favourite. Carrying the beauties of the city, the Royal Botanic Garden is also a world-renowned scientific centre for plants.

You can expect many interesting and beautiful things to see at the Botanic garden. For instance, you can walk through the Arboretum which is filled with lush trees, the Chinese Hillside which is made up of rare and colourful plants, explore tropical plants, and more.  

The Garden is open daily and the entry is free. There are two entrances to get here which are: the West Gate (EH3 5NZ) and East Gate (EH3 5LP). Buses are available for both gate entrances and you can also find bicycles at each gate to use. However, if you will come by car, you can only access the Garden’s West Gate.

Address: Arboretum PI, Edinburgh

13) Eat At The Kitchin

One of the most interesting things about Edinburgh and Scotland is the multicultural environment. This multiculturalism is also reflected with the many tasty culinary options in Edinburgh. For instance, the Kitchin intertwines French methods to Scottish food which transcends your taste buds to a new level.

However, the Kitchin is great for many other reasons. The Kitchin has held Michelin status since 2006 alongside with many other prestigious awards. This top restaurant is also special for its motto of “from nature to plate” which shows its freshness and daily selections.

If you visit the Kitchin you must try Wagyu which is formed of Highland Wagyu beef, truffle, and egg. This culinary experience goes well with wine and there are selections of must try wine pairings.

Address: 78, Commercial Quay, Leith, Edinburgh

12) Get a Room with an Historical Essence: 23 Mayfield Hotel

If you seek a hotel with an historical ambience and a comfy and relaxing atmosphere, 23 Mayfield is for you. This hotel is highly recommended as the best place to stay, because it embraces Edinburgh’s history with its Victorian style.

Built in 1868, 23 Mayfield has the perfect central location if you want to stay in the City Centre. It’s really close to Castle and Princes Street.

Scottish hospitality is very famous and is indeed present at 23 Mayfield with its family-run concept. You’ll love the hand-carved mahogany furniture in each room too. For overseas visitors, remember that a twin room means two single beds and a double means one double bed to share!

Additionally, the breakfast here is award-winning and has many selections from champagne breakfast to steam porridge and more. But, you must try the “Eggcup Award Winning” for a scrumptious traditional Scottish breakfast.

Location, photo, and booking

11) Take a Creepy Tour of The Real Mary King’s Close

Edinburgh is famous for its underground tours with fascinating and entertaining experiences. The Real Mary King’s Close is a top place to visit in Edinburgh as an underground tour located under the buildings of the Royal Mile. The Real Mary King’s Close is the best tour of all our underground tours.

If you love a haunted and paranormal experience this attraction will knock your socks off! You can follow in the footsteps of former residents which make this experience ever so exciting.

For a historical and fun time, you can choose to tour with costumed guides. Some costumed guides are: the Plague Doctor, the Poet, and the Maid. After this fun and creepy tour, head to the gift shop and coffee shop that has locally sourced options to try.

Address: Warriston’s Close, 2, High St, Edinburgh

Visiting Edinburgh soon? We’ve put together a list of where to stay in Edinburgh plus the best Harry Potter stops in Edinburgh!

10) stay in the hotel where harry potter came to life.

Certainly, Edinburgh is famous for the Harry Potter experience and a closer look into the world of J.K. Rowling. There are many attractions that encapsulate this experience in Scotland; however, the Balmoral Hotel is one of the most unique.

Why? Well, the infamous J.K. Rowling completed the Harry Potter series here, and there is a J.K. Rowling suite available for Harry Potter fans to stay in.

However, there are other reasons you should stay here too. For instance, the Balmoral Hotel is a five-star hotel and has a Michelin-starred restaurant. Also, many of the rooms in this hotel have the view of the Castle and Old Town. Don’t miss out on this luxurious and charming stay.

Location, photos, and booking

9) Explore the Wonders of Calton Hill

Scotland and Edinburgh is formed of marvellous hills and Calton Hill is one of them. In fact, the whole of Calton Hill is composed of major landmarks, commercial areas, and peaceful streets. For instance, there is the National Monument, the Collective Gallery, and more great spots. You can also walk through Calton Hill to have a free, fun, and healthy activity while viewing its marvellous wonders.  

Most importantly, Carton Hill has panoramic views that are majestic and are great to take photos for Instagram memories at sunset. It’s no wonder that Carton Hill is labelled as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, because of all the distinct areas and vistas it has.

Also, when at Calton Hill you can experience the Athenian acropolis architecture (the National Monument) while climbing the hill. You’ll wonder if you stepped into Greece! If you’re here in August don’t miss out the Edinburgh festival shows. Some of these festivals are about art, films, and books, which will appeal to many travellers.

Address: Edinburgh EH7 5AA, Edinburgh

8) Walk through Princes Street

Do you love shopping or walking through a luscious green garden? Then, certainly a walk through Princes Street is the perfect thing to do for you. This street is formed of many shops, hotels (for example: The Balmoral Hotel), transportation, green parks, and more.

Princes Street is most importantly an icon of Edinburgh where many films have used this street for iconic Edinburgh scene. This street is indeed busy due to its fame and beauty.

Here are a few must-see attractions on Princes Street: Princes Street Garden filled with a lush green atmosphere and the Scottish National Gallery with amazing art selections. For some essential things to do here: shop at the National Scottish shops filled with whiskey options and cute souvenirs, then eat at any local café.

Also, don’t miss out on the seasonal markets present at Princes Street Garden such as Edinburgh’s Farmers Market.

Address: Princes St, EH2 2AN, Edinburgh

7) Indulge in The Scotch Whiskey Experience

What is the national drink of Scotland you might ask? As a matter of fact, the preferred drink of Edinburgh and Scotland as a whole is whiskey. So why not experience this marvellous drink in the lands from which it was created!

The Scotch Whiskey Experience is a perfect way to tour, explore, taste, and learn about the wonders of whiskey. You can also be a part of the whiskey-making process and gulp on some delicious Scotch whiskies on the way.

Additionally, the Scotch Whiskey Experience provides a variety of tours, from Tasting Tales to The Taste of Scotland and more. The Scotch Whiskey Experience also is home to the World’s Largest Collection of Scotch Whiskey, so there is an option for everyone who loves to booze their way through a city.

Address: The Royal Mile, 354 Castlehill, Edinburgh

6) Teatime at The Signet Library

How about an afternoon of tea and other brilliant drinks and desserts in a unique setting with Georgian architecture? If that sounds fun, then head to the Signet Library to feel posh, luxurious, and pampered. The Signet Library has a deep historical essence stemming from Edinburgh’s Golden Age. This iconic place has been home for ideas and knowledge to prosper.

Afternoon tea is a staple in Scotland, especially Edinburgh. As such, you must try afternoon tea at the Signet Library, because the tea is refreshing, lovely, and served with champagne.

The Signet Library is for everyone, but it has a secret: the TV show Outlanders featured the tea here. You don’t have to be an Outlanders fan to taste this sensation. It’s definitely worth it for anyone!

Address: The Signet Library, Parliament Square, Edinburgh

5) Visit The Forth Bridge

Located in Queensferry (North and South), Edinburgh, and dating back to 1890, this bridge is beautiful at any time of the day. Similar to Calton Hill, the Forth Bridge is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site with a strong historical background. Additionally, the Forth Bridge is both a local and tourist symbol and is featured on the Banknotes of Scotland.

What makes the Forth Bridge historical and important is because of its length. It had the world’s longest bridge span of 541 meters (1,774 feet) when it opened in1890. Also, this bridge was the world’s first major steel structure with intertwined cantilever designs.

Additionally, this bridge is fun to enjoy with local shops and cafes surrounding the bridge when you’re ready for a quick bite or a cup of tea. Don’t forget to take a photo and sit on the benches near the bridge where you can enjoy fresh sea air and a great view of sunrise or sunset.

Address: Forth Bridge, South Queensferry, Edinburgh

4) Taste True Scottish Cuisine

The Witchery is one of the top places to eat in Edinburgh, especially for a luxurious experience or fancy date night. The cuisine is delicious Scottish-based food from Scottish lobster to beef or lamb to haggis. However, you must try the pudding menu too. From cheese selections to ice cream, all of the choices are delicious here.

The Witchery by the Castle has a deep historical background too. In fact, the Witchery gets its name from the hundreds of people burned to death due to the belief that they were witches. This fine dining restaurant is available everyday where you can eat its award-winning a la carte menu with a warm, rich Scottish ambiance.

If you want to experience the full on Scottish foods in a single, tasty, filling bite either try: the Lamb Wellington or the Witchery Haggis. These foods will make you feel the Scottish culture and delicious fresh meat options found in Edinburgh and beyond the city boundaries.

Address: 352 Castlehill, Edinburgh

3) Climb an Extinct Volcano: Arthur’s Seat

Legend has it that Arthur’s Seat is named after King Arthur, and it might be one of the locations for Camelot in Edinburgh. When climbing and walking through this hill you can feel the mysterious atmosphere present here.

Arthur’s Seat is Edinburgh’s highest hill – an extinct volcano – and is part of Holyrood Park. This exceptional attraction is located in the heart of the city and is just a short walk from Edinburgh’s Royal Mile. Arthur’s Seat is also free, but I highly recommend a tour because the history of this place is both immersive and intriguing.

In short, you must climb Arthur’s Seat for many reasons. However, one core reason is to see a 360-degree view of Edinburgh. If you plan to climb or walk here, don’t forget to wear your comfy walking shoes!

Address: Edinburgh EH16 5HX, Edinburgh

2) Visit Historic Edinburgh Castle

Edinburgh Castle is both a local and tourist attraction for many people and ties together the long history of Edinburgh and England. In fact, this castle is one of the oldest places still standing in the British Isles – initially built in the 11th century and added upon later. The castle was originally a royal residence, military garrison, prison, and strategic fortress and is still considered the most besieged fortress in Britain.

What also makes this castle a fantastic attraction is that it symbolises not only Edinburgh, but also Scotland with its legendary past by displaying its national identity, Scottish history, and power. It is no wonder that the Edinburgh Castle is the most visited place in Edinburgh, because it ties the symbolism, heritage, and the wonders of Edinburgh together.

If you are here during August, you must see the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo which is made up of a series of military bands who put forth an amazing performance. Also, the castle is located at the Royal Mile close to Old Town which makes it really central.

Here there are many things to do and see, for instance: eat at the castle, follow an itinerary like the Lang Stairs and Portcullis Gate, and visit the Great Hall. Use our helpful guide to visit the Edinburgh Castle .

Address: Castlehill, Edinburgh

Admission Fee: Adult £15.50, Concession £12.40, Child £9.30, and also family tickets are available

1) Explore the National Museum of Scotland

The National Museum of Scotland is without doubt a wonderful place to be in whether with family, friends, or by yourself. The entry is free and open daily from 10 am to 5 pm, which is perfect for families on a budget.

Moreover, this Museum intertwines Scottish antiques, culture, and history and is both fun and informative to explore. You’ll enjoy exploring different periods of Scottish history, the marvels of space, natural wonders, clothing and fashion, and exhibits from around the world. Kids will enjoy seeing the T. Rex skeleton and Moby the whale’s skull, while adults will appreciate the history of the royals like Mary Queen of Scots.

You can easily get to the museum by car, train, or bus since it’s centrally located on Chambers Street which is easy to locate. When at the museum don’t forget to eat at the Balcony Café if you get hungry, then visit the gift shop to find lovely souvenirs. 

Address: Chambers St, EH1 1JF, Edinburgh

Where to Stay in Edinburgh

Get to know the best areas to stay in Edinburgh. We’ve recommended our favorite hotels for those who love to stay in the busy city or out along the coast for more peaceful views of the sea.

About Fey Arberk Bozoglu

Fey loves travelling, researching, and writing about culture, food, art, and history. She also enjoys sharing her experiences and knowledge with her readers. Her expertise covers a wide range of topics such as music, food, art history, and more.

Reader Interactions

Leave a comment cancel reply.

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

• Travel Guide
• In The Press

POLICY & TERMS

• Cancellation Policy
• Terms & Conditions
• Privacy Policy

Accessibility Links

Edinburgh travel guide

What to do, where to stay and why you’ll love it.

Y ou won’t find anywhere else in the United Kingdom where medieval castles, royal residences and steampunk steeples stand alongside an ancient volcano. Mind-boggling is the word for the gothic storybook capital, and its atmosphere and appearance have long made it one of the world’s great cities.

It’s a wellspring of culture and architecture: there’s the Fringe, the world’s largest arts festival; scintillating views of spires and an Athenian acropolis from Calton Hill, the city’s favoured sunset spot; and the cobbled streets off the Royal Mile, forever set against the backdrop of Edinburgh Castle.

It’s also the greenest city in the UK, and with a royal botanic garden, sprawling parklands and a regal estate, it’s a delight to get lost in.

This article contains links from which we may earn revenue. These links are signposted with an asterisk. More information here .

Ask the average Scot what they know about Edinburgh and there’s a good chance they will list the castle* , Scottish Parliament and Arthur’s Seat, the capital’s indecently pretty volcanic plug. It has a great deal more going for it than that.

Advertisement

Start at the nation-defining Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art or National Museum of Scotland , followed by a potter along the Water of Leith to Dean Village. Or go for a stroll in Greyfriars Kirkyard, the graveyard where Edinburgh resident JK Rowling recycled some of the names for Harry Potter characters.

The crowds descend on Princes Street — to Edinburgh what Oxford Street is to London — but far better is a browse through the independent boutiques of Stockbridge or Bruntsfield, followed by a pint in a beer garden. The Cumberland Bar in the New Town or the Blackbird in Tollcross are always a sound bet.

Where to stay

This is a city filled with choice in hotels , whether you’d plump for a Highland-style country lodge or a Georgian-era townhouse hotel. In the city centre, and mostly on or overlooking Princes Street, you’ll find the destination addresses — in particular the Balmoral channels the vibe of a tarted-up Brigadoon.

There are plenty of candlelit, wonky townhouses around the Grassmarket, Cowgate and Old Town, but if it’s romance and roll-top tubs you want, look no further than either the Witchery* or House of Gods* . Both hide a hybrid of extravagant decor and gothic flight of fancy. The coolest neighbourhood is Leith, but with few landmark hotels, the bolt holes in the New Town, Stockbridge or the West End are better and have all the restaurants, boutiques and cocktail bars you will need.

Food and drink

Edinburgh’s much-heralded food scene* is largely tucked to the north and east of the Old Town. The Michelin-star restaurants and those tugging at the coattails of the inspectors are mostly found in Leith, particularly around the Shore, Leith Walk and Broughton Street. Seafood, from hand-dived shellfish to boat-to-table Newhaven fish, is particularly good at city stalwarts Ondine, Fishers, the White Horse, and the Fish Market. The bistros in the West End, Bruntsfield and Stockbridge have a deeply rooted, family-friendly vibe. And for street food* or markets, Stockbridge’s weekend get-together and the Pitt in Leith can’t be beaten.

Edinburgh is also the most fashionable place to drink whisky these days. In the past few years the city has gone gaga for the grain spirit, with one new distillery opening (Holyrood), one in the pipeline (Port of Leith) and the latest arrival being the mammoth Johnnie Walker Princes Street visitor experience. Combine that with the city’s brewing legacy, newfangled gin distillers and plenty of creaky taverns, and you can see why Scots are never out of the pub.

The rush between that castle and that palace often bypasses some of the city’s most alluring sights. A guided tour of the rooftop of St Giles’ Cathedral unpicks 900 years of history and will give you much better sense of the city. Likewise, Real Mary King’s Close* is a time-stopped warren of once plague-ridden streets hidden beneath today’s cobbles — how it hid underground and in secret for so long is as much of an eye-opener.

Away from the Royal Mile, parts of Edinburgh can still feel as though they’re waiting to be discovered: Craigmillar Castle brims with nooks and crannies and was once a haven for Mary, Queen of Scots; Blackford Hill gets you above the turrets; and, further afield, Jupiter Artland is a forest-set sculpture park with a tip of the hat to Wonderland.

Tear up the guidebook and immerse yourself in the Edinburgh that so few visitors see. Dodge the Harry Potter walking tours and visit the tucked-away Writers’ Museum; pedal along the Innocent Railway Path, the United Kingdom’s first underground train line turned cycleway; or a trip from the city centre to Lauriston Castle (yes, Edinburgh has three history-rich bastions).

Know before you go

Bear in mind that Scottish banknotes are different from those in England — you can use both. Visit Edinburgh in spring or autumn and you’ll have lots of breathing space and a great choice of top tables and splurge-worthy rooms. But come unprepared in August (at the height of the Fringe), or in winter (during the Christmas markets and Hogmanay) and you could be disappointed. Accommodation is hard to come by and the city centre gets rammed. Book well in advance.

Take me there

Inspired to visit Edinburgh but yet to book your trip? Here are the best hotels from Booking.com* and Hotels.com* . These are the best tours of Edinburgh from our trusted partners* .

Sign up for the Times Travel Newsletter here .

The Edinburgh Minute

Welcome to The Edinburgh Minute newsletter

Join more than 9,000 locals who receive a quick, free, daily 7am round-up of edinburgh's essential news, events and links. hand-curated by me, a real human, in a 60-seconds-ish summary..

It’s January 2023, more than decade since The Guardian closed its hyperlocal 'experiment' that I worked on… Now Substack feels like the platform for me to refresh some of the formats people loved on Guardian Edinburgh , which I ran 2010-2011. So now I’m launching The Edinburgh Minute newsletter. More on that in a min… First, WHY?

Local news is more fractured than ever

But local folks’ need to know hasn’t gone away. Edinburgh has so many useful news sources. It’s just hard to keep up. Some outlets are professional and prolific. Others are run as hobbies or done anonymously and the stuff of local legend ( New Town Flaneur , I’m looking at you and your red trews). But staying across everything is tough, especially with certain problematic social media platforms making life harder. I’m not sure that billionaires or artificial intelligence should decide how much local news you get to see. So I’m volunteering to pick up the baton again as a curator. And you’re invited.

Here are four reasons why I’ve re-started this:

1. People still send me stuff

It only lasted one year but people tell me they really appreciated that blog back in 2010/11. Sadly most of the videos, audio stories and photos were lost when the Guardian did some digital spring cleaning. The text is all still there. Nearly a thousand posts by myself and a cast of wonderful contributors. That’s what made it great: the community. We all had reasons to come together in one place, to share and learn about Edinburgh. I made some of my best friends through it. And they still send me things in case I can find a home or audience for them. Some readers wanted to keep the blog alive via a Crowdfunder when it closed in 2011. But the tech, the timing and my confidence were not in a good place. More than a decade on, I’ve got a lot more experience under my belt and Substack is here, so I’m giving it a bash. And you can help.

2. Why Substack?

I recently heard a podcast about how local and hyperlocal news was growing on this platform. It convinced me that Substack has all the technology that our Guardian Edinburgh blog had, and more. While I don’t plan to break much news here (those days are behind me and others do it better), I would like to invite anyone who has something to share to help me curate the city’s most interesting links. I’ll start things off, but in the long run I’d love us to become a network of curators and contributors. That’s where Substack’s tools become really powerful. More on that to follow. We’ll keep it simple for now with…

3. The Edinburgh Minute ⏰

Kicking things off is a daily links post landing in your inbox at 7am. Every morning, for free. I’ve been curating these in stealth mode for a month or so, to get a feel for the format again. The posts you receive across the week will be based on sources I find useful and that others sent me. The Edinburgh Minute will have other strands/threads/series, but at launch today and for the coming weeks you’ll receive a single daily short format newsletter. Depending on how it goes, I’ll build things up, sending you Sunday long reads, guest posts and maybe even a podcast. Ahh, exciting.

4. Why Edinburgh?

In short, Edinburgh is brilliant. It’s not perfect ( aye it is, naw it’s no ), but there are many smart people doing cool, interesting and wonderful things here. So a short daily curated list of links to those things is my first commitment: to give your day an informed start.

Thanks for reading and please share this newsletter with your friends.

Michael MacLeod Founder and constant curator

Thanks for reading The Edinburgh Minute. Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support this work.

Ready for more?

32 Edinburgh Travel Tips for First Timers & Must Knows Before You Go

Last Updated: October 19, 2023

*FYI - this post may contain affiliate links, which means we earn a commission at no extra cost to you if you purchase from them. Also, as an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Check out our Privacy Policy and Disclosure. for more info.

Steeped in magic, museums, and deep fried pizza, Edinburgh is the dreamy capital of Scotland that stars in many a Pinterest board and book nerd daydream.

The reasons why are numerous. Not only is Edinburgh an aesthetic wonderland (with a main road flanked by royal digs on each end), it’s also rich in culture, history and a gloomy charm that’s pure Kryptonite for nerds. Check out my full list of things to do in Edinburgh to see what I mean.

Little wonder why I (chief nerd) recently spent a month there, gallivanting through its mysterious stone streets, soaking up as much of its glory as possible… while taking meticulous notes (as all nerds do) on the must-knows about travelling there for the first time.

So, in this post, I’ll be sharing all my best Edinburgh travel tips and must-knows, from dodge-worthy tourist traps to confusing quirks that trip up most visitors. I hope you find it all helpful!

If not, maybe I have to go back for further research (oh noooo…)

Save this list of Edinburgh Travel Tips for Later!

You’ll be very glad you did.

1. Learn how to properly pronounce ‘Edinburgh’

First thing’s first, we have to tackle the pronunciation of “Edinburgh” because an agonizing number of first time visitors get it wrong. 

Just to test: how do YOU think it’s pronounced?

If you said any variation of Edin-burg or Edin-borrow, unfortunately you’d fall into the large club of people who get it wrong.

To the surprise of many – the city known as Edinburgh is actually pronounced Ed-in- bruh.

So, keep that pronunciation in mind as you scroll through the rest of my (very lengthy) Edin-bruh tips.

2. Book ahead

Perhaps more shocking even than Edinburgh’s proper pronunciation is its prices.

Accommodation in Edinburgh (for both locals and tourists alike) can be incredibly expensive, especially so during peak periods, so your best defense against sky high prices is simply booking early.

You might find my step by step guide on how to book the best accommodation every time helpful for this.

On that note, it’s helpful to…

3. Know when peak seasons are 

As I mention in my general Scotland travel tips post, peak season in Edinburgh coincides with the city’s festival seasons so you can expect crowds to be at their most suffocating in August and around Christmas/New Year.

August is an especially busy time because Edinburgh hosts a bunch of different festivals, including the Edinburgh Festival Fringe which is the largest performing arts festival in the entire world. 

During this time, it’s not uncommon for prices to skyrocket, and for performers to be sharing dorm rooms, camping out, and squeezing ten people into tiny spaces. So needless to say, supply for accommodation is very very limited.

Now if you’re really interested in experiencing in the chaos of festival season, I can highly recommend it, it’s so much fun, but planning ahead and booking something far in advance really is key. 

On the other hand if you’re not too bothered with attending any of these events, then I would really plan my trip for shoulder seasons like Spring and Fall to avoid the crowds.

If my gentle warning wasn’t sufficient, here’s a look at the Royal Mile on an average August day:

4. Don’t feel pressured to stay in the very city centre

Compared to many other European capitals, Edinburgh is fairly compact and small, as well as VERY well connected with public transport, so staying anywhere within city limits will mean being relatively close (i.e within 30 minutes) to the main sights.

So, when looking for accommodation I would say staying somewhere right in the centre is somewhat less important than in other cities, so if you find something that’s a really good deal with the main drawback being location, don’t worry too much so long as there’s a bus or tram stop near by.

During my month in Edinburgh, I lived in an apartment that by many standards was “really far out” from the centre (by the local prison, if I’m being honest) but it was only a 15 minute bus ride to reach the Princes Street Gardens and all the main sights around it, so not too shabby at all.

5. Beware of staying in Old Town unless you like hills

Of course, if your budget allows for it, staying in the city centre would be ideal, but just take note that Old Town is very very hilly with a surplus of leg-melting steps and puzzling turns, so staying here might mean a lot of huffing and puffing to get home at the end of the day.

Now let’s move onto Edinburgh transport tips and how to get around.

6. Know that there’s two train stations in Edinburgh

In Edinburgh, you’ll find two main train stations: Waverley and Haymarket.

Waverley is the larger one right in the middle of the city, with 20 platforms and connections to places all across Scotland.

It’s also connected to a shopping centre so definitely arrive well in advance because it can be tough for a first timer to actually find where the train station bit is.

Haymarket is a lot more manageable and small but it’s slightly southwest of Waverley and the city centre, so depending on where you’re staying that might be a good option to book for. 

In any case, keep in mind that there’s two stations so always book the one closer to where you’re staying.

7. Take advantage of Edinburgh’s excellent public transport

In terms of getting around the city, your main options are buses, trams and taxis. 

With the bus system, you should know that there are a few different bus companies in Edinburgh, all of which have their own tickets routes and fares.

Hop on hop off buses are also common in Edinburgh, but honestly the local buses are way cheaper and more efficient. The only time I would do the hop on/hop off is if it came included with some kind of sightseeing pass, but more on that later.

8. Use contactless cards for easy travel on Edinburgh buses

With the local bus network, buses run 24 hours a day, with Lothian being the most popular operator, boasting 50+ routes across the city. First is also a big one you’ll see a lot.

These different companies run buses on the same routes but with different bus numbers and tickets.

This can seem confusing but it’s easy to simplify, because the main way to pay now is by contactless card, so you can just walk on the bus, tap in and you’re automatically charged without you needing to worry about which ticket you’re buying.

These bus companies also have daily and weekly caps in place when you make contactless payments.

Lothian for instance has a program called TapTapCap and ensures you won’t pay more than £4.80 per day and £22 per week. First has Tap&Cap as well. 

But to take advantage of these caps, you need to make sure you’re using the same card each time and also sticking to one company once you tap in.

An easy way to do this is just searching bus times on that company’s website rather than on Google Maps where they show you all the potential buses from across companies.

I would really recommend paying for buses with contactless cards just for the ease of it, but just know that you can also pay with cash on board, but it has to be the exact amount as they don’t give change.

I noticed with some companies like East Coast Buses as well that you have to tell the driver where you’re going before you pay because that can affect your rate.

In any case, bus drivers in Edinburgh tend to be super nice (at least in my experience) so when in doubt, ask.

9. Buy tickets in advance for trams and don’t forget to validate them

Trams in Edinburgh are a bit more complicated.

Unlike buses, they only run from around 5:30am until 11:30pm, and the ticketing system is less straightforward.

With Edinburgh trams, you need to buy a ticket in advance either through machines at the platforms, online or through their app and THEN you need to validate the ticket once you’re on board.

Ticket prices depend on whether you’re buying a single or roundtrip and also how far you’re going.

So overall it is a bit more confusing, but the benefit is you don’t get stuck in traffic, so it does have its upsides!

10. Know that Day Tickets & Ridacard Are Valid on Both Lothian Buses & Edinburgh Trams

Lastly on the transport front, if you plan to combine bus and tram travel during your time in Edinburgh, know that you can get day tickets or 4 week Ridacard passes which work for both Edinburgh Trams, Lothian buses & a few other companies.

So to summarize: if you’re taking buses, just use a contactless card to tap in and you’re good, making sure to stay loyal to one card and one bus company to automatically get the best deal.

If you’re taking trams, get tickets in advance and validate them.

If you plan to take both, consider getting a day ticket which will cover both Lothian buses and trams.

11. But be sure to prioritize travelling on foot within the city centre

All that said, once you’re in the centre, I find the best way to get around is on foot. 

Edinburgh is mindbogglingly pretty, and the best way to take it all in is by strolling around at your own pace, romanticizing every cobblestone.

On a practical note, sometimes it’s even faster to walk vs. taking the bus or taxi because of traffic, so yes, get those steps in!

12. Plan your walks strategically to avoid too many hills

If you plan to do a lot of walking though, here is a pro Edinburgh tip: be mindful that some parts of the city (e.g Old Town) can be shockingly hilly, with lots of stairs and little lanes, so do plan your walking route to minimize going up and down too much, because it can get pretty exhausting. 

To minimize the physical labour and turmoil, I would recommend taking public transport as high up as you can, then making your way downhill. 

13. Always book attraction tickets ahead of time

These days, you can buy admission tickets for almost every major Edinburgh attraction online, which saves you from wasting time lining up on the day of.

If you’re visiting during peak season like August, it’s also important you book big sights well in advance, as spots like Edinburgh Castle tend to sell out.

Here are some quick booking links:

• Edinburgh Castle: Buy Skip the Line Tickets + a Tour
• Palace of Holyroofhouse: Buy Tickets
• Johnnie Walker Experience: Buy Tickets
• Scottish Whisky Experience: Buy Tickets

14. Be realistic about your interests and plan your itinerary around them

The truth is, Edinburgh is filled with many different attractions and if you just sightsee according to what the big sights are meant to be, then you’re not likely to have a good time. 

Edinburgh Castle for instance CAN be boring for some people if they’re not at all interested in history or anything military-related, as many of the on-site attractions relate to war history.

I for instance thought it was quite boring the first time, but I enjoyed it a lot more on my second visit after I learned more about the castle’s history and context. (Check out my full Edinburgh Castle guide if you need help with this!)

So, yes, definitely prioritize sights according to what YOU personally enjoy and don’t worry about skipping “major attractions” if they just don’t interest you, especially since many of them can be quite expensive.

15. Beware that not all Edinburgh sightseeing passes are made equal

When it comes to trying to save money on Edinburgh attractions, make sure you do proper research on sightseeing passes rather than assume they’ll automatically save you money.

The Edinburgh City Pass for instance doesn’t include any of the main sights like Edinburgh Castle or Holyrood Palace.

Instead, if you’re hoping to hit up the trio of Edinburgh’s royal attractions, meaning Edinburgh Castle, Holyrood Palace & the Royal Yacht Britannia, then the ticket to get would be either…

• The Edinburgh Pass: Includes all three main sights, plus 10% discounts on others
• The Royal Edinburgh Ticket: Includes all three, plus a hop on/hop off bus tour

This would honestly only be worth it if you wanted to do all three of those attractions and a bus tour, otherwise you’d be better off just booking the one or two things you wanted to see.

16. Take advantage of Edinburgh’s many free attractions

Now, while Edinburgh’s main attractions can be pricey, the city does make up for it with a wealth of free museums and attractions.

Some of my favourites include…

• The Scottish National Museum which is a beautiful museum home to a lovely terrace view and a huge collection of interesting items including Dolly the Sheep
• The Scottish National Portrait Gallery which is housed in a stunning building and includes portraits and write-ups on prominent historical figures from Scotland’s history 

There’s also the Scottish Parliament, which is a controversial building that you can book free tours of so long as you do some well in advance.

Some parts of the building (like the debating chamber and exhibition space) are also open to the general public without a tour booking so long as the facilities aren’t in use.

There was a really amazing press photography exhibition during our visit, so I would definitely recommend stopping by.

… the cafe is also a hidden gem of super affordable and tasty items.

Besides those main sights, there are also some smaller museums run by the City of Edinburgh Council which might be worth looking into if you’re interested in those particular topics.

I’ll be honest, these museums are pretty dated and not super exciting compared to some of the other attractions in the city but they are free and many are close together so if you’re interested in the topics, go for it.

For example, there’s …

• The Museum of Edinburgh, which is about the history of the city 
• The Writer’s Museum, which chronicles the stories of Edinburgh’s most famous writers
• The People’ Story Museum, which showcases city history through the lens of its people and 
• The Museum of Childhood which a museum dedicated entirely to the idea of childhood

17. Prioritize uniquely Edinburgh attractions

That said, another important attractions related must know is when you are planning your itinerary, do make an effort to prioritize uniquely Edinburgh attractions.

There’s so much to see here and I think it’d be a shame to spend time doing things you could be doing in any other city, so for that reason I wouldn’t necessarily prioritize attractions like the Camera Obscura, Dynamic Earth or Chocolatarium, unless of course you’re travelling with kids, or those things particularly interest you.

18. Don’t rub Greyfriar Bobby’s nose

The story of Greyfriars Bobby is one of Edinburgh’s most moving tales… but unfortunately, rubbing the statue erected in his honour is actually considered a faux pas by many locals.

Despite most travel guides advising to do it, rubbing Bobby’s nose is actually frowned upon these days by locals who believe the act is ruining the statue.

So, take note and go for the air pat instead.

19. Beware of “Harry Potter attractions” in Edinburgh

Now, let’s a have a brief chat about all things Harry Potter.

If you’ve been on this blog before, you’ll know that I’m no stranger to HP locations. I’ve written about all the Harry Potter filming locations you can visit in real life, all the best Harry Potter things to do in London , where to find Hogwarts , and all the little links between HP and Gloucester Cathedral , Durham Cathedral , and Lacock .

So when I see all the ‘Harry Potter walking tours’ and shops in Edinburgh, I get irrationally irate.

Just to clear things up then: Harry Potter never filmed in Edinburgh so there are no filming locations to visit.

And while JK Rowling did live in Edinburgh while she wrote the books, a lot of the connections shared on walking tours have been debunked by the author herself. For instance that Victoria St inspired Diagon Alley , or that the Elephant House is the official birthplace of Harry Potter.

So, take what you hear with a grain of salt, and know that there is a LOT more to Edinburgh than just Harry Potter stuff. Although those vaguely magic-themed gift shops are definitely taking over the city, for better or for worse…

20. Make sure you’re prepared before going up to Arthur’s Seat

Now another important Edinburgh must-know is that despite being considered one of THE top must-dos in Edinburgh, Arthur’s Seat is a pretty steep uphill hike so if you’re short on time or don’t really like hiking, I would skip this one.

The view is incredible but I saw many unprepared tourists who had to turn back because they didn’t realize what a big hike it’d be, so just keep that in mind to save your legs and lungs.

If you do end up doing it though, I propose walking down and heading southeast instead of going back to the city centre because then you reward yourself with a visit to the Sheep Heid Inn, a super cozy spot considered one of the oldest pubs in Scotland.

21. Explore beyond the very city centre

Lastly on the Edinburgh sightseeing front, don’t be afraid to expand your tourist exploits beyond the central core of Old Town and New Town.

There are many lovely areas to explore in Edinburgh, like Stockbridge for instance which is densely packed with cute boutiques, cafes and bookshops.

Or, for a different vibe, you can check out Leith, which was historically a rougher part of town but today has a few pockets of really cool food and drink spots.

22. Enjoy Edinburgh’s diverse food scene

Speaking of food and drink, let’s now talk about Edinburgh food and drink tips!

First – know that the Edinburgh food scene is very diverse. On the Scottish front, you have everything from chippys selling deep fried pizza and Mars Bars all the way to refined spots with mouthwatering seafood. On the international front, you have lots of culturally diverse spots serving up mouthwatering eats from around the world.

So definitely make the most of exploring the food scene while you’re here.

23. Try some Scottish classics

At some point during your trip of course, you should make sure to enjoy some Scottish classics like Haggis with Neeps and Tatties and Cullen Skink which is a creamy fish soup.

There are a number of pubs serving these if you’re looking for a more causal experience, but as I mentioned, there’s more elevated places to try them too if that’s more your speed.

24. Find recommendations from local Edinburgh creators

If you’re looking for Edinburgh food recommendations, I would definitely seek out local Edinburgh foodie blogs or social media pages.

Why? Quite simply, people who live there will be able to give you better tips than random gremlins like me who just lunged at a select few spots during my short stay.

So, some pages I really liked while I was in Edinburgh were…

• @fedinburgh
• @topscottishscran
• @hannahscranz

25. Book ahead for restaurants

One Edinburgh food tip I CAN give you though is to book ahead whenever possible.

Some of the most popular spots in Edinburgh can book out far in advance so if there are any places you have your heart set on, then make sure you make a reservation. 

NOTE: If you are visiting during a busy period like festival season though, beware that many restaurants won’t take bookings during this time and instead enforce a first come/first serve policy.

26. Make sure to try a whisky experience of some kind

While in Edinburgh, I would also highly recommend booking some kind of whisky experience as well, because frankly, it just feels wrong not to.

For those new to whisky, I would recommend booking an experience over a tasting because then you can learn more about how to appreciate whisky before you’re thrown into the deep end.

In Edinburgh, there are two main whisky experiences that are both quite popular, the Scottish Whisky Experience right by Edinburgh Castle and the Johnnie Walker Experience on Princes Street.

I opted to try the latter and it was cheesy, but I loved it. As someone who didn’t know much about whisky, I found it to be a fun, dynamic and engaging introduction. I definitely walked out of there a brainwashed Johnnie Walker enthusiast.

But if you want something more low key, there are tons of tastings and tours you can book as well, like…

• Tour a distillery: Holyrood Distillery is a really popular one
• Do a tasting tour: This one includes history and storytelling

27. Or enjoy a gin experience

There’s more to the local booze scene than just whisky though – gin around here is also very good. 

You can even book distillery tours and gin experiences if that’s more your line of thing, like…

• This distillery and tasting tour
• This distillation workshop and tasting
• This underground gin tasting
• This guided tasting

28. Learn how to pronounce commonly mispronounced place names

As we near the end of this list of Edinburgh travel tips, I’d like to revisit the whole pronunciation thing, because it’s not just “Edinburgh” that first timers struggle with.

So, in case you need to ask for directions or think you may be saying these names out loud, here are some other commonly mispronounced names in Edinburgh:

• Holyrood = Holly-rude
• Cockburn = Co burn
• Leith = Leeth (rhymes with teeth)
• Lothian = LOW-thee-in

There are also common words you might across that are unfamiliar, like for instance…

• Kirk = church 
• Aye = yes 
• Scran = food
• Tattie = potato 
• Dram = a small portion of strong alcohol, often whisky

And my personal favourite, coo which is cow.

29. Know that jaywalking is very widespread

There’s a common joke that you can tell how local someone is to Edinburgh based on how impatient they are at crosswalks.

… and this couldn’t be more true.

Jaywalking isn’t illegal in Scotland, so most locals will just wait until there’s a clear path to cross, and just go at their own leisure regardless of what the little red man says.

So I say, when in doubt, follow people who know what they’re doing. 

30. Always have a rain/windproof jacket

Ah, Edinburgh weather.

The ever-present gloom makes for wonderfully dramatic photos. It does not however make for a stress-free packing experience.

The truth is, Edinburgh weather can be annoyingly random – sun one second, rain the next, and then random bouts of wind throughout.

So, to ensure you’re properly prepared, make sure you bring a good rain/windproof jacket, and have it with you whenever you head out.

NOTE: A waterproof hooded jacket is more important than an umbrella because that Edinburgh wind is no joke. Your umbrella will definitely be struggling.

31. Pack comfortable shoes

Aside from a good jacket, another thing you should pack for your Edinburgh trip is comfy shoes.

As I’ve mentioned ad nauseum, you’ll be walking a LOT during your time in Edinburgh, so ditch the heels and make sure you have comfortable stomping shoes.

32. Support independent makers over cheap souvenir shops

Lastly, when shopping for souvenirs, be wary of the big tourist shops on the Royal Mile. Often these shops are selling cheaper quality goods, with polyester Tartan wear for instance that’s made to look like the real deal.

Instead, you should find local independent makers to support, like at the Tron Kirk market (conveniently also located on the Royal Mile).

I hope you enjoyed those Edinburgh travel tips! 

Let me know in the comments if you have any more Edinburgh must-knows to add. Safe and happy travels! 🙂

My Go-To Travel Favourites:

🧳 Eagle Creek: My favourite packing cubes

💳 Wise: For FREE travel friendly credit cards

🍯 Airalo: My go-to eSIM

🏨 Booking.com: For searching hotels

📷 Sony A7IV: My (amazing) camera

✈️ Google Flights : For finding flight deals

🌎 WorldNomads: For travel insurance

🎉 GetYourGuide: For booking activities

Leave a Comment Cancel reply

By using this form you agree with the storage and handling of your data by this website. *

At this Edinburgh gallery, visitors can curate an interactive art exhibition

Who hasn't dreamed, when strolling around a museum, of curating their own art exhibition someday? Visitors to the Edinburgh Printmakers gallery in Scotland's capital will be able to do just that, as part of a new interactive exhibition opening soon.

Edinburgh Printmakers is inviting visitors to its next exhibition to try their hand at being an art curator.

(Copyright: SeventyFour / Shutterstock)

This participatory exhibition is entitled "Castle Mills Then & Now: Whose Gallery is it Anyway?" Edinburgh Printmakers describes it as "a real-time, in-person interactive experience" through which each visitor can learn more about the visual arts "in a friendly and welcoming environment."

With this in mind, members of the public won't just be passive. They'll be invited, if they wish, to exhibit their own creations, including prints, drawings, textiles and sculptures. They can also take on the role of curator and arrange the selected works as they see fit. "As the public continuously modifies the exhibition, it will never remain exactly the same, prompting a reflection on printmaking and the visual arts that goes beyond a single curator’s selection," Edinburgh Printmakers explainsin a news release.

Through the "Castle Mills Then & Now: Whose Gallery is it Anyway?" exhibit, the Edinburgh Printmakers gallery hopes to encourage its visitors to questionthe role of art institutions in society. In recent decades, the face and spirit of art venues have undergone profound change, with a move towards greater diversity and inclusivity. Museum and gallery directors are seeking to innovate in order to attract new audiences, at a time when the average age of visitors is rising steadily and the least privileged social categories are turning away from cultural venues.

The art world will have to wait until April 19, when "Castle Mills Then & Now: Whose Gallery is it Anyway?" opens, to see how Edinburgh Printmakers' idea plays out. In any case, this exhibition lands just a few weeks after an employee of Munich's Pinakothek der Moderne hit the headlines after hanging one of his own paintings in the museum's galleries without permission. The amateur artist had hoped to make a name for himself and break into the art world. He was eventually dismissed and banned from the museum, according toThe Guardian.

"Castle Mills Then & Now: Whose Gallery is it Anyway?" runs from April 19 to June 30 at Edinburgh Printmakers, Scotland.

© Copyright 2024 ETX Studio

• International edition
• Australia edition
• Europe edition

James V: Katherine review – romance and religion in the court of a volatile manchild

Festival theatre studio, Edinburgh Catriona Faint’s witty performance as a pragmatist caught up in fanatical times is the heart of the latest historical drama from Rona Munro’s James Plays series

A nyone with half an eye on today’s global politics will know bad things happen when religious zealots come face to face. The same is true in our own history, as Rona Munro reminds us in the latest instalment of her James Play saga about Scotland’s Stewart kings.

Compared with the ambitious blockbusters with which she began the series 10 years ago , this episode feels more like a slight if diverting extension of the James Play universe. We have reached 1528 and, reacting to the early stirrings of the Scottish reformation, the Roman Catholic church is treating any opposition as heresy. The first to be burned at the stake is Patrick Hamilton (Benjamin Osugo) in punishment for his Lutheran preaching against the priesthood.

Meanwhile, the infant king James V is reaching maturity, if maturity is what you can call the brattish mix of brains and brutality that characterises him here. Played by a pugnacious Sean Connor, he is a manchild indulged enough to expect obedience, but intelligent enough to realise actions have consequences. His volatility is scary.

Certainly, he is the closest Catriona Faint comes to a match in her role as Katherine Hamilton, sister of the martyred Patrick and a distant cousin of the king. The heart of Munro’s play, she is a pragmatist who cannot fail to be impressed by her brother’s resolve. When suspicion turns on her, she refuses to commit to the church, less out of conviction than a belief in freedom of thought.

Played by Faint with wit and attack, Katherine is a slippery opponent in the ecclesiastical court; certainly more troublesome than Osugo’s Patrick, who is described as a “stubborn, arrogant arse” but comes across as merely dreamy. Directed by Orla O’Loughlin on Becky Minto’s candle-strewn set, the play sets up a fundamentalist battle between an intolerant church and a young woman with a rather modern sense of independence.

It would end as badly as any of today’s conflicts were it not offset by the romance between Katherine and her childhood friend Jenny. Played with plain-speaking honesty by Alyth Ross, she provides Katherine with an escape route to a happy ending that suggests, in case it needs pointing out, that compassion is a better bet than fanaticism.

Comments (…)

Most viewed.