shetland tourist brochure

The Ultimate Guide To Planning A Trip To Shetland

Categories Orkney & Shetland , Scotland , Scottish Islands

For this mini-guide, Shetlander and writer, Laurie Goodlad, shares more about these fascinating islands, and how best to plan and enjoy your time there. Laurie is a full-time travel blogger and tour guide who has been sharing her island home with visitors since 2018. Born to the islands, she can trace her ancestry back hundreds of years and is passionate about Shetland.

Table of Contents

Shetland has so much to offer visitors; from the rugged scenery, to the history and wildlife, there is something for everyone to enjoy.

Made up of over 100 islands, Shetland is an archipelago in the middle of the North Atlantic; where the North Sea meets the North Atlantic, and Scotland meets Scandinavia, Shetland enjoys a distinct and unique culture.

Lying at 60° North, the latitude line passes through the sweeping South Mainland, metaphorically slicing Shetland in half. Being so far north means that the days of summer are very long and light – or, as in winter, are very short and dark.

In summer, Shetland enjoys up to 19 hours of daylight but, in the winter, can expect to see only six hours of light. Put simply, Shetland is closer to the Arctic Circle to the north (400 miles/643 km) than it is to the UK’s urban powerhouse, London (600 miles/962 km), to the south.

Its rugged coastline of almost 1,000 miles (1,700km) has been carved and shaped by the unbridled power of the North Atlantic on the west while, while, on the east coast, the North Sea challenges the ever-changing coastline. Of these 100 or so islands, 16 are inhabited.

Including Fair Isle to the south, and Out Stack in the north, Shetland is about 100 miles (160 kilometres) long and, at its widest, is 7 miles (11 km), but in places like Mavis Grind , it’s no more than about 70 metres wide. Mainland is the largest of the islands, at 55 miles (88 km) long it has links by inter-island ferry, plane and road bridge to those that are inhabited.

Geographically, Shetland resembles a jigsaw puzzle, formed by a range of ancient hills standing on the continental shelf and partly drowned when the last period of glaciation retreated 10,000 to 12,000 years ago.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Laurie writes the travel blog, Shetland With Laurie and has worked as author for Lonely Planet on their latest Scotland guidebooks. Here, Laurie shares her insights, tips and favourite places.

How To Get To Shetland

Getting to Shetland is easy; you can fly or take the overnight ferry.

Shetland by air

Flights are operated by Loganair and depart from most Scottish airports, including: Aberdeen , Glasgow , Edinburgh , Inverness , Kirkwall and Dundee (seasonal). There are also flights from London and Bergen throughout the summer.

Shetland by sea

NorthLink Ferries operates the lifeline service to the isles, with two ferries running on the route between Lerwick and Aberdeen .

The ferry calls in at Kirkwall , Orkney on alternate evenings, and the sailing time is between 12 and 14 hours.

Cars can be brought on the ferry and there are various accommodation options, including cabins and sleeping pods. The boat also offers pet-friendly accommodation in some of its cabins.

Exploring Shetland

Shetland by car

Shetland is best enjoyed with a car; you can either bring your own vehicle on the overnight ferry or hire a car from one of the car hire companies.

● Bolts Car Hire ● Grantfield Garage ● Star Rent a Car

Oil money has meant that Shetland has a good road network, and the subsidised inter-island travel means lower fares. Most rural roads are single-track, with passing places that are easy to navigate.

Cycle Shetland

Taking a bike on the ferry to Shetland is cheaper than a car, and allows you to slow down and enjoy the islands at a leisurely pace (but bear in mind that there are no dedicated cycle lanes!)

Shetland’s roads are in very good condition and are a pleasure to cycle, although main roads can be quite fast and the gradients tiring. It is worth taking account of the fact that the weather is changeable and a strong head-wind can make for a challenging cycle.

Inter-island travel

Nine inter-island ferries operate throughout Shetland, linking Yell , Unst , Fetlar , Whalsay , Skerries , Bressay , Papa Stour , Fair Isle and Foula . Ferries to the North Isles , Whalsay and Bressay operate daily, with multiple sailings.

Ferries to Skerries , Papa Stour , Fair Isle and Foula are less frequent, and booking is required. All except the Fair Isle and Foula ferries are ro-ro car ferries .

Fair Isle and Foula have air links to Tingwall Airport (6.5 miles from Lerwick). There are several flights a week but it is advised to plan trips to Fair Isle and Foula at the start of your holiday as flights can often be delayed or cancelled due to weather, particularly fog. Allowing flexibility in your schedule is recommended if you are planning to visit Fair Isle and Foula.

Public transport

Shetland has excellent public transport provision, allowing you to explore all corners of the islands. Buses provide links to all corners of Shetland, but note that the bus stop may still be several miles from that beauty spot you want to visit.

Bus timetables and up-to-date information are available on the free ZetTrans Travel App, available on both Apple and Android devices and does not need a mobile phone signal to be used.

Zetrans and Traveline Scotland provide useful information about travelling around Shetland.

Guided tours

Shetland has lots of private guides who can help you unlock the magic of the isles, here are a few to check out:

• Shetland with Laurie
• Shetland Nature
• Adventure Shetland
• Island Trails
• Shetland Minibus Tours

Things to do in Shetland

As a Shetlander, I’m always asked what my favourite things to do in Shetland, and it’s just so difficult to pick!

However, we all have a few favourite places, and here are some of mine which I feel will give you the best taste of Shetland’s landscape, culture and heritage.

Lerwick’s old town

Explore the picturesque port of Lerwick – the UK’s most northerly town and one of the country’s leading fishing ports.

Walk through Lerwick’s old town, exploring the fascinating 18th-century lanes and lodberries with their stone foundations proudly built into the sea, defying time and tide.

Head to South Commercial Street to find the fictional home of enigmatic TV star Jimmy Perez from the hit TV show Shetland , or dip your toes in the water at Bain’s Beach and search for a piece of sea-worn pottery.

Throughout the summer, Laurie offers Walking Tours of Lerwick’s old town, exploring the fascinating history of the town.

Deepdale, West Mainland

Hike out to Deepdale in Shetland’s West Mainland for a slice of paradise and enjoy the setting sun on a summer’s night. The walk is around 5 miles (8km) and can be challenging in parts.

Park at the Voe of Dale (Dale of Walls beach) and follow the coast north towards Sandness (OS Explorer 467). This piece of coastline, with views across to the most westerly island of Foula , is awe-inspiring. The cliffs are dramatic and rugged, hewn out by the powerful forces of the North Atlantic.

A day in Skerries

For those who really want to get away from it all and enjoy a leisurely day hiking the coastline, the island of Skerries is ideal.

Out Skerries, known locally as Da Skerries or just Skerries , are a small low-lying trio of islands – Housay , Bruray and Grunay – that lies 13 miles off Shetland’s east coast and four miles northeast of Whalsay .

The island is home to around 30 people who largely depend on the fishing industry, and small enough to be walked in a day trip.

Tresta Beach, Fetlar

The smallest of the North Isles, Fetlar , known as the Garden of Shetland, is a beautiful island to explore.

One of the best places to experience is the beach at Tresta with its glistening sand that sparkles in the summer sun. This is the perfect place to enjoy a picnic – or even try a little wild swimming at 60 North!

Getting to Tresta is easy; from the ferry, take the B9088 for two miles, and follow the signs for Tresta. The beach is unmissable!

No trip to Shetland would be complete without a visit to the uninhabited island of Mousa.

World- famous for the 2,000-year-old Iron Age broch which is the best surviving example of a broch anywhere in the world. The island is also famous for its breeding colony of storm petrels and other wildlife.

Mousa Boat operates day trips from April to mid-September and evening tours to see the storm petrels around midsummer.

St Ninian’s Isle, South Mainland

St Ninian’s Isle is probably Shetland’s best-known beach. Its iconic image is found in most brochures and internet searches for places to visit in Shetland, and rightly so.

St Ninian’s Isle is a picture-postcard pristine white sand tombolo spanning some 500 metres from the Shetland Mainland, across to the uninhabited St Ninian’s Isle, where the 9th century St Ninina’s Isle treasure hoard was discovered.

Hike to a broch

So much of Shetland’s archaeology is away from the trappings of visitor centres, and remain quiet and hidden away from the crowds.

Here are a few of my favourites to hike to:

• Culswick Broch Walk
• Levenwick Broch
• Burraness Broch
• Burland Broch

Sands o Breckon, Yell

Yell is the largest of Shetland’s trio of North Isles, often overlooked by visitors as they head north to Uunst.

The beach at Sands of Breckon is worth a visit; with stunning golden sands and turquoise seas. Besides the beach, the area provides a fascinating glimpse into Shetland’s archaeological past.

This secluded site has had almost continual occupation from prehistoric times, and the remains of past people can be seen all around the area. To get here, follow the A968 north through Yell and, just before the Gutcher Ferry Terminal, turn left towards Cullivoe.

Follow this road (B9083) for several miles – look out for the ‘brown’ tourist sign marked ‘Breckon Sands’. Follow this road for ⅓ of a mile and park responsibly at the end of the road and follow the path to the beach.

Click here for more on things to do in Yell.

Quendale Beach, South Mainland

Shetland’s not short of beautiful beaches, particularly in the sweeping South Mainland, and the sand at Quendale is no exception.

Quendale beach is Shetland’s longest stretch of sandy beach at just short of a mile. This area has changed significantly as shifting sands alter the landscape, and the unique dune system stretches far inland. Testament to the changes brought to this area is found in the excavations at Broo – an abandoned township buried under sand some 300 years ago.

The best way to reach Quendale Beach is to follow the A970 south until you almost reach Sumburgh. Follow the road signs for ‘Toab/Hestingott’, heading west, follow this road for about two miles until the road ends at some garages and the double carriageway gives way to a dirt track. Park responsibly and follow the track down to the beach.

Eshaness, Northmavine

The rugged cliffs at Eshaness are breathtakingly beautiful. Formed by fire and ice almost 400 million years ago, this is a landscape of drama and rugged beauty.

Walk the Eshaness circular and marvel at the incredible volcanic formations in the landscape, including the Grind o da Naavir, Hols o Scraada and the Kirn o Slettans.

Eshaness is an hour’s drive from Lerwick following the A970 north towards Hillswick , then follow the signs for Eshaness.

Heylor, Northmavine

Under the shadow of Ronas Hill , Shetland’s highest point, Heylor is a beautiful ‘out of the way’ spot sitting on the shores of Ronas Voe , an impressive fjord-like inlet of seawater that stretches far inland along the side of Ronas Hill and its red granite heights.

Follow the A970 north towards Hillswick . At Urafirth , turn right towards Heylor and Swinister and follow the road for around half a mile before veering left towards Heylor.

Westerwick, West Mainland

Enjoy a coastal walk between Westerwick and Silwick and enjoy the dramatic scenery and red granite cliffs. To find Westerwick, follow the A971 west, then take the B907 towards Skeld.

In Skeld, follow the signs towards Wester Skeld – follow this road for several miles, passing the school and graveyard before turning left at the end of the road towards Silwick and Westerwick .

Follow this road before turning right towards Westerwick . Park at the end of the road for walking routes.

Jarlshof Prehistoric Site, South Mainland

The site is a must-see for anyone visiting Shetland; laid out chronologically and spanning 5,000 years of human history, visitors weave their way through the ages of Shetland’s human history.

From the first farmers of the Neolithic, through the Bronze Age, Iron Age, Broch period and the arrival of the Vikings.

Following a period of Norse rule, Shetland becomes part of Scotland, and we see an era dominated by the Scottish Lairds.

Visitors conclude their walk through time with the now ruinous, but once grand, Laird’s house of 1600. Jarlshof is unmissable!

Fethaland, Northmavine

For the most northerly point of Mainland Shetland, head to the historic 19th-century fishing station at Fethaland in the North Mainland. The walk out to the now ruinous buildings will take a few hours, so you might want to pack a picnic and OS Explorer No 469 . Park responsibly at the end of the Isbister road – bearing in mind that the farmer requires access to the farm road.

Tips for planning a trip to Shetland

• Book well in advance! Accommodation can book up a year in advance, so you will need to get planning well ahead of travel. Shetland has a dedicated accommodation website that you can find. This is a good place to look for accommodation and these are some accommodation reviews that I have done.
• Pack for all weathers ; Shetland is in the far north and, even in summer, weather can be cool and often cold! Pack plenty of layers, a sturdy pair of boots and a good waterproof outer layer.
• Plan your days around different areas; South Mainland, West Mainland, North Mainland, Unst, for example.
• Book a boat trip with the Mousa Boat or the Noss Boat.
• Book meals in advance if you are travelling in the summer as restaurants book up quickly and it can be difficult to get a last-minute table.

Where to eat

• No 88, Commercial Street, Lerwick
• The Dowry, Commercial Street & Hay’s Dock, Lerwick
• Fjara, Lerwick
• Da Steak Hoose, Mounthooly Street, Lerwick
• Peerie Shop Cafe, Lerwick
• The Cornerstone, Scalloway
• Braewick Cafe, Eshaness (seasonal opening)
• Busta House Hotel, Brae
• Frankie’s Fish & Chips, Brae

Recommended accommodation

• Shetland Seawinds , Lerwick
• Ingrid’s Self Catering , Scalloway
• Scalloway Hotel
• Busta House Hotel , Brae
• Westshore , West Mainland
• The Taing , Reawick
• Shorehaven and The Boatman’s House , Unst
• Da Peerie Neuk , Unst

Related posts

• Scottish Isles

The Shetland Islands in Scotland are the most northerly point of Scotland and a stunning place to spend your holiday! The archipelago of islands that make up the Shetland’s islands is an incredible destination to travel to, and you’ll be surprised to discover the sheer number of things to do in Shetland while you’re here.

The Shetland Islands have a fascinating and detailed history, from their Iron and Bronze Age ruins, prosperous Norse settlements inhabited by Vikings that travelled from Denmark to the proud Scottish heritage that populates all corners of Shetland.

One of the biggest attractions of the Shetland Islands is their remote isolation from the rest of the bustling cities of Scotland. In fact, the Shetland economy is built primarily on fishing and maritime produce! But rest assured, there is an excellent selection of Shetland accommodation that allows you to experience the tranquil coast and islands of the region without sacrificing comfort.

So, when you’re planning to travel to Scotland, make sure to turn your attention north of the Scottish Mainland and consider checking out these unique and fascinating islands – you’ll be surprised at the sheer amount of things to do on the Shetland Islands.

In This Post

Things to do in Shetland

The Shetland Islands are stocked full of activities, events, and amazing sights to see. You won’t go a day without making a memory at one of Shetland’s attractions that will stay with you for the rest of your life.

The many islands that make up Shetland are gorgeous, and the fans of the Shetland TV series will realise that many of the stunning attractions look far better in person! You can fill your whole holiday with exciting and spectacular sights, from the beautiful coast and surprisingly accessible historical sites that detail Shetland’s history to the cultural events that show the blend of Shetland and Norse cultures.

We’re sure that a holiday to the Shetland Islands will be one of your favourite places to visit, so don’t hold back and book yourself a ticket as soon as you can! See our list for the top things to do in Shetland!

Enjoy a visit to Shetland’s Islands

Many islands make up the wondrous Shetland, and each contains a special and unique opportunity for your next holiday destination. The largest island is known as Mainland Shetland and includes most of the region’s population.

The Mainland of Shetland holds many beautiful natural landscapes, including a UNESCO global geopark, and can provide accommodation and local amenities for your travel. Shetland’s smaller islands contain hidden gems that you cannot miss out on seeing.

We’ve detailed our favourite choices that you should undoubtedly consider while exploring Shetland and its islands.

Fair Isle is a jewel of an island found on the southern tip of Shetland. It’s famous for its many natural attractions and wildlife.

You can enjoy bird spotting a wide variety of seabirds that make their home on this quaint Isle, most common around the island’s fishing village of Stonybrek. There is also an abundance of shipwrecks you can see around the coast of Fair Isle, which is the perfect addition to any hiking trail.

Start your visit off to the Shetland Islands with a trip to the lovely Fair Isle and get a taste of how beautiful Scotland can be.

Isle of Noss

The Isle of Noss holds a fantastic reserve isolated by the narrow Sound of Ness and is an incredible attraction for those who came to the Shetland Islands for its picturesque wildlife.

The Isle’s cliffs tower a staggering 180-metres above the sea and are like skyscrapers for the immense density of bird species you can find here. You can even spot distant whales and porpoises that breach the waves while walking along the coastline, with jaw-dropping views from these high vantage points.

The Isle of Noss is on the east side of Bressay and is an excellent day trip if you want the best scenery that the Shetland islands offer.

If fishing is your favourite pastime, then look no further than the island of Whalsay for some prime angling on the Shetland Islands.

Whalsay can be found just off the northern Mainland of Shetland and welcomes visitors with a warm atmosphere and friendly locals. You can try your hand at loch angling while hearing the history of Shetland Island’s fishing roots from one of the local anglers. Those that want to dive deeper into the profound account of Whalsay can do so at the Whalsay Heritage Centre.

The gorgeous fields of Whalsay are famous for their beautiful wild flowers and wildlife, so much so that the first 19-century explorers gave the island’s arable land the nickname of ‘the bonnie island’.

Fetlar is called the ‘Garden of Shetland’ and holds the most stunning natural landscapes in the Shetland Islands. If you have the chance to wander through the lush and verdant islands in Shetlands, take it as fast as you can!

Fetlar is also on the precipice of Norway, the Danish Faroe Islands, and the Shetland Islands, making it a great destination to travel to when you want to experience a cultural blend of all three of these regions.

It’s essential to the Scottish Government that the arable land and natural beauty of Fetlar is maintained, and two-thirds of the island is considered to be a heritage site.

Fetlar is truly a wildlife paradise filled with rolling green landscapes and wild flowers – there’s no better place to get away from the hustle and bustle of your life than the island of Fetlar.

Jarlshof Prehistoric and Nordic Settlement

The Jarlshof Settlement is an extraordinary attraction that you have the chance to see while you’re in the Shetland islands, combining over 4000-years of history into one incredible location.

From the ancient Neolithic to Viking communities from Denmark, exploring the massive complex of ruinous homes and farmsteads allows you to glance back in time and walk amongst the settlement as if you were there when it was built!

You can receive a full scope of Scotland’s history when you visit Jarlshof Prehistoric and Nordic Settlement, with sites from the Bronze and Iron Ages and proof of Nordic communities in the most northern region of Scotland.

Shetland Museum & Archive

This 5-star attraction in Lerwick is one you can’t miss out on if you’re interested in the heritage and culture of the Shetland Islands.

The Shetlands Museum & Archive is filled with not only one of the most expansive collections in the British Isles but also holds many spectacular cultural events throughout the year. The Museum contains artefacts exclusively from the Shetland Islands, most of which were generously donated by generations of Shetlanders.

You can also gain access to the Shetland Archive, a necessary step for anyone who wants to see if their ancestry extends to these remote islands.

Broch of Mousa

Within the remote Island of Mousa in Shetland sits the most well-preserved broch in Scotland and a fantastic sight to see while you’re visiting the Isle of Mousa’s Natural Reserve.

Found east of the Shetland’s Mainland, the Broch of Mousa towers above its surroundings, standing at a staggering 13-metres tall! This historical site is believed to have been constructed over 2000-years ago, and it’s an artefact of Scottish prehistory that is daunting to see. The Broch of Mousa is one of the most impressive sights you’ll see exploring the breadth and width of the Shetland Islands.

You can reach Mousa Broch can be visited with a brief boat trip that takes you to the island, an excellent day trip to undertake while in the Shetland Islands.

Sumburgh Head Lighthouse

The Sumburgh Head Lighthouse holds a breath-taking view of the North Sea and is a grand, beautiful lighthouse you can visit while on the Southern tip of the Shetland’s largest island.

Home to a visitor centre and nature reserve, this lighthouse is a magnificent building that complements the ocean views and is a bastion of heritage covering the region’s history back to the Iron Age! You can learn about the lighthouse keepers and the abundant wildlife you can see in the area, from whales, puffins, and many more!

The Sumburgh Head Lighthouse is one attraction you need to see while on the south coast of the Shetland Islands – you won’t regret it!

Shetland Crofthouse Museum

If you’re ever lucky enough to head down to the delightful setting of Dunrossness, the Shetland Crofthouse Museum offers you an opportunity to explore a recreation of a 19th-century croft house.

The passionate tour guides here provide an unparalleled description and history of what Shetland life would have been like for those living in the Shetland Crofthouse. This spirited retelling, combined with the smell of the peat fire, the atmosphere of the old thatched cottage roofs, and its artefacts, make this experience one that you won’t soon forget.

The Shetland Museum also holds many cultural events throughout the year, so check out their website.

Hermaness National Nature Reserve

The sheer cliffs of the Hermaness National Nature Reserve are as daunting as they are beautiful. It’s hard not to be impressed as the waves crash against these stalwart cliffs, accompanied by whipping wind and vocal sea birds.

This national reserve is stunning, especially with the wide variety of wildlife displayed here. You can watch dexterous Gannets dive into the waters at blinding speeds and puffins meander and hop from rock to rock below.

The Hermaness Reserve takes about an hour to navigate to Britain’s most northerly point, Muckle Flugga, and is an excellent way to experience the wildlife that makes its home this far north!

Scalloway Castle

Scalloway Castle is a magnificent building that automatically commands your attention with its impressive design and aged structure.

This Castle was once the home of Black Patie, an Earl of Shetland and Orkney infamous for oppressing and exploiting the labour of the people of Mainland Shetland. This unsavoury figure was executed in 1615, but their impressive 15-century castle still stands and can be explored in this harbour town.

The fascinating history of this Castle makes this an exciting attraction to visit as you explore the Shetland Islands, especially while in Scalloway.

Banna Min Beach

On the south side of Shetland mainland sits one of the more gorgeous beaches on the entire Isle of Shetland, Banna Min Beach.

Boasting clear blue waters, fine white sands, and a peaceful atmosphere, you’d be forgiven for mistaking this beach for one in the Caribbean. On a beautiful sunny day, there’s no place you’d rather be on the Mainland than soaking up the sun on Banna Min Beach and that’s a fact!

And if you’re fortunate, you may even be joined by a few plump seals who love sunbathing as much as you do!

Check out Bobby’s Bus Shelter

One of the unique attractions on the Shetland Islands is Bobby’s Bus Shelter, a decorated shelter that gains a new theme every year.

Located on the Isle of Unst, Bobby’s Bus Shelter is one of the most popular local attractions, equally kooky and charming. The Shelter usually features a colourful array of signs and decorations and is fully equipped with a microwave, table, chair, and carpet!

The mastermind behind the novel attraction has made a point to include a particular theme each year to decorate the Shelter after – Queen’s Jubilee, outer space, and African have all been prominent themes throughout the years! This fantastic local attraction is fun and exciting and well worth your time to visit.

Clickimin Broch

The Clickimin Broch is an excellent broch you can see and is just outside the town centre of Lerwick on the Shetland Islands.

This surprisingly accessible attraction is the perfect place to stop by and spend some time before catching one of the many ferries that will take you to the Northern Isles of Orkney. You can explore the Broch free of charge, and you’d be surprised how big it is on the inside.

Near Clickimin Broch are other historic site ruins dating back to almost 3000-years ago, including a sculpted set of stone feet speculated to be created during the Iron Age and symbolise kingship!

See the Northern Lights

The spectacular sight of the Northern Lights, or ‘Mirrie Dancers’ as they’re known locally, are the highlights of many people’s travel and is an incredible experience you have whilst on the Shetland Isles.

The Shetland Islands are the most northerly point in Britain, making it the best place in the UK to see these gorgeous dancing lights. Although you can see them throughout the year, your highest chance of seeing the Northern Lights are during the winter months, from mid-October to mid-March.

We highly recommend spending as much time as you can and visiting the many other lovely attractions of the British Isles of Shetland to make sure your holiday has the highest chance of seeing them and is also filled with things to do while you’re not!

See Shetland Ponies

Wandering the hills and moors of Scotland’s Shetland Islands are animals that will undoubtedly put a smile on your face – Shetland ponies!

These patchy-patterned equines have been living on the isles for over 4000-years! You’ll see herds of them throughout your travels, so make sure to stop by and take a picture. Although keep in mind that crofters of the Isles own all the Shetland ponies, so respect that fact!

Otherwise, these fantastic and resilient ponies are as part of the Shetland Islands as the people, and they’re a friendly face you’ll be seeing as you explore the islands.

Visit Lerwick, Shetland’s Capital

The beautiful Lerwick is the only proper town on the Shetland Islands, with a population of 7,500 people and many amazing things to do!

You can visit the historic 18-century buildings that line the town’s waterfront, boasting sandstone structures and ornate Dutch-style architecture. The Lerwick Town Hall also is an excellently designed building, resembling a miniature castle.

While you’re here, why not attend a tour and tasting at Lerwick Brewery, the most northerly distilleries in Scotland or cap off your day of touring the Shetland Isles at Mareel, the town’s beautifully made musical theatre and cinema!

You’ll likely be passing through this picturesque town when you arrive in the Shetland Islands, but we recommend thoroughly exploring the city before seeing the rest of the islands.

West Voe Beach

One of the most stunning beaches in the Shetlands Islands is West Voe Beach, which even won an award from Keep Scotland Beautiful!

You can find this beach just south west of the Sumburgh Airport, the main airport of Mainland Shetland. It treats you to spectacular views, complete with clear turquoise waters and white sands. The West Voe Beach is also remarkably close to Sumburgh Head and the two great historical sites of Jarlshof and Old Scatness!

If you’re landing at the Sumburgh Airport on the Shetland Islands, check out this tranquil beach when the weather’s shining!

Culswick Circular Walk

On the West Side of Mainland Shetland, the Culswick Circular Walk attracts hundreds of visitors with incredible sights every year.

With dramatic views of valleys, freshwater lochs, and the Culswick Broch – one of the best-preserved ancient ruins you can find in Mainland Shetland! The walking trail takes around 2 hours to complete, perfect for an early morning wake up to begin your journey through the Shetland Mainland.

The Shetland Islands don’t lack fantastic walking trails, but the Culswick Circular Walk is undoubtedly one of the best on the Mainland.

Tangwick Haa Museum

As you explore the area of Tangwick on the West Side of the Shetland Mainland, make sure to stop by the Tangwick Haa Museum, which holds a collection of unique artefacts and exhibits that show off the region’s history.

You should undoubtedly treat yourself to a tour through this Museum, and we guarantee that your knowledge and experience of the things to do in Shetland will be heightened because of it! The guides and volunteers are incredibly knowledgeable and passionate individuals and make the tour through the Museum a joy to behold.

If you have time when you’re enjoying your outdoor activities in Shetland, the Tangwick Haa Museum is one place you shouldn’t miss.

The Hollanders Grave

Near the town of Hillswick stands the Hollanders Grave, a monument grave dedicated to the naval war that took place between the Dutch East India Company and the English Navy in 1654!

This historic battle is marked and is a small monument with tranquil and spectacular scenery along the west coast of the Shetland Islands. This Grave is a must-see if you have any heritage or ancestry from these places and marks a monumental battle that this archipelago was involved in.

The Cabin Museum

Any history buffs will love the Cabin Museum in Shetland, especially the rare and unique World War II artefacts, photos, and items that detail Shetland’s history during this turbulent time.

The Cabin Museum is open from May to September every year and was founded in 1978, so make sure to book your holiday around this time if you’re interested in checking this attraction out! You can also discover a wide array of Shetland’s crafting history from whaling and fishing.

Fort Charlotte

Equipped with cannons that overlook the Sound of Bressay, Fort Charlotte was the fortress used by the English to deter Dutch and French ships. This imposing fort is a must-see while visiting the beautiful Shetland archipelago.

Interestingly, a deterrence was all that this Fort actually was, and Fort Charlotte never actually fired their cannons. Today, you can see the outside grounds of the Fort, complete with a series of cannons, informative signs, and beautiful views of the Sound of Bressay.

If you’re a history buff looking to complete your holiday with some extraordinary sights, then Fort Charlotte is your choice!

Red Pool Virkie

If you follow the coastline north from the Ness Boat Club, you may come across the peculiar sight of Red Pool Virkie – a natural phenomenon that you won’t want to miss seeing!

This strange attraction can only be seen during the summer months, one of the best times to visit the Shetland Islands! Due to algae decomposing, the colour of the pool shifts to the brilliant crimson hue that gives the Red Pool Virkie its ominous look.

You can fully climb down the cliff edge and get superbly close to the Red Pool if you can withstand the smell of algae and be treated to a beautiful view of the South Mainland of Shetland, with the North Sea stretching out as far as the eye can see.

Old Scatness Broch & Iron Age Village

Uncovers the mysterious histories of the Iron Age and Scotland when you visit the magnificent Old Scatness Broch & Iron Age Village!

You can receive an excellent guided tour that takes you through multiple ancient ruins discovered in 1975, making this historic site relatively new and untouched. There is even a reconstructed Iron Age Village with a peat fire that evokes your imagination and immerses you into a world over 3000-years ago!

You can enjoy a guided tour on Fridays of every week, but you can still visit the site anytime by yourself – We highly recommend you do so!

Muness Castle

On the northernmost island of Unst sits the mighty Muness Castle, an impeccably fine tower house that’s an excellent attraction to add to your to-do list while you’re on the Shetland Islands.

This remote Castle is a must-visit destination while you’re in Unst and provides travellers with informative learning boards that tell the castle’s fascinating history as you tour its interior and the grounds around it. Enhance your exploration by grabbing the torches from their sconces and touring the rooms as if you lived there!

The Isle of Muness itself boasts the spectacular scenery that Shetland is known for, and there’s no better place to enjoy its history than at Muness Castle.

Shetland Textile Museum

While you’re exploring the town of Lerwick, make sure to stop by the Shetland Textile Museum and dive deep into one of the unique historical museums you can find in the Shetland Isles.

The Shetland Textile Museum focuses on the evolution of textiles in Shetland, moving from history to contemporary! There’s a particular focus on hand knitting and its role, with plenty of exhibits that showcase how knitting is used on the island. The occasional live demonstration gives you unparalleled insight into its complicated process.

This Textile Museum is too close to Lerwick to miss out on and makes for the perfect afternoon destination to stop by and explore.

Bonhoga Gallery

Bonhoga combines incredible artistry, generations of craftsmanship, and a splendid café with a wide selection of food and drink – what more could you ask for?

You’ll be treated to beautiful and provoking artworks made by local Scottish Mainland and Shetland artists, ranging from recreations of the spectacular scenery of Mainland Scotland to the Coastlines of Shetland. The Gallery has adopted an old barn house to house its artworks, creating a homely sense of warmth.

The Bonhoga Gallery is situated right in the centre of Shetland Mainland, making it a great destination to visit wherever you are in Shetland.

Eshaness Lighthouse

On the North of Shetland sits the incredible Eshanness Lighthouse, one of Scotland’s most remote and northern lighthouses!

The Eshannes Lighthouse sits on the craggy and cliff coastline of the Shetland Islands, offering some of the best views that you can receive of the Atlantic Ocean. It’s not uncommon for the area to be covered in a dense fog, which is why the Lighthouse is there in the first place, but there’s a webcam available online that allows you to scout the weather before you go!

Take a walk along the coastline and experience the beautiful scenery that this small portion of Scotland is known for.

Other Things To Do in Scottish Isles

• Things to do in Arran
• Things to do in Brodick
• Things to do in Harris
• Things to do in Islay
• Things to do in Isle of Lewis
• Things to do in Isle of Mull
• Things to do in Isle of Skye
• Things to do in Kirkwall
• Things to do in North & South Uist
• Things to do in Orkney
• Things to do in Portree
• Things to do in Stornoway

Graham Grieve

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Many maps plonk the Shetland islands in a box somewhere off Aberdeen , but in fact they’re a lot closer to Bergen in Norway than they are to Edinburgh . Shetland endures the most violent weather experienced in the British Isles. There are some good spells of dry, sunny weather from May to September, but it’s the “simmer dim”, the twilight which lingers through the small hours at this latitude, that makes Shetland summers so memorable.

Noss island

South mainland, mousa broch.

St Ninian's Isle, joined to the Shetland mainland by a tongue of sand - shutterstock

The islands’ capital, Lerwick, is a busy little port and the only town of any size. Many parts of Shetland can be reached from here on a day-trip.

South Mainland is a narrow finger of land that runs some 25 miles from Lerwick to Sumburgh Head, an area particularly rich in archeological remains, including the Iron Age Mousa Broch and the ancient settlement of Jarlshof .

A further 25 miles south of Sumburgh Head is the remote but thriving Fair Isle, synonymous with knitwear and exceptional birdlife. Even more remote are the distinctive peaks and precipitous cliffs of the island of Foula, fourteen miles west of Mainland - still counted among the lesser-known must-visit places in Scotland .

Shetland’s three North Isles bring Britain to a dramatic, windswept end: Yell has the largest population of otters in the UK; Fetlar is home to the rare red-necked phalarope and north of Unst, there’s nothing until you reach the North Pole.

Tailor-made travel itineraries for Scotland, created by local experts

20 days  / from 2970 USD

The Great British Road Trip

Get ready to explore Britain on this unique self-drive road trip. Choose the car of your liking before you hit the road: from the Cotswolds and its picturesque villages over the Beatle's favorite hang-out in Liverpool to Scotland's capital Edinburgh: this trip includes many highlights to be explored

6 days  / from 608 USD

Festive Feelings around Christmas in Scotland

Experience the magic of Christmas in the heart of the Scottish Highlands! Lovely Christmas Markets and winter festivals await visitors during the winter months, but this itinerary can also be turned into a summer festival hop!

11 days  / from 1061 USD

Scotland's Wildest Natural Scenery

Want to lose yourself in Scotland's wildest natural scenery? This itinerary is a breath of fresh air and perfect to explore the most enchanting landscapes of the Highlands. It will allow you to get to know the wildest landscapes of Scotland, its fast-paced history and its amazing traditions.

Tailor-made trips for   Scotland

Inhabited until World War II, and now a National Nature Reserve, Noss is a popular day-trip from Lerwick. Sloping gently into the sea at its western end, and plunging vertically for more than 500ft at its eastern end, the island has the dramatic outline of a half-sunk ocean liner. The cliffed coastline is home to vast colonies of gannets, puffins, guillemots, shags, razorbills and fulmars.

As Noss is only one mile wide, it’s easy enough to do an entire circumference in one day. If you do, keep close to the coast, since otherwise you’re likely to be dive-bombed by the great skuas (locally known as “bonxies”).

Boat trips from Lerwick to Noss include those run by Seabirds and Seals. It’s also possible to take a ferry to Maryfield on Bressay; from here it’s a two-mile walk to the landing stage where a Scottish Natural Heritage RIB can take you to Noss.

Shetland’s South Mainland is a long, thin finger of land, just three or four miles wide, but 25 miles long, ending in the cliffs of Sumburgh Head (262ft), which rises sharply out of the land only to drop vertically into the sea. The road up to Sumburgh lighthouse is the perfect site for watching nesting kittiwakes, fulmars, shags, razorbills, guillemots, gannets and puffins. South Mainland also harbours some of Shetland’s most impressive archeological treasures – in particular, Jarlshof and Mousa Broch.

Jarlshof is the largest and most impressive of Shetland’s archeological sites. Only half of the original broch survives, and its courtyard is now an Iron Age aisled roundhouse, with stone piers.

Viking mixing with Pictish ancestry in the well-preserved settlement Jarlshof - shutterstock

It’s difficult to distinguish the original broch from the later Pictish wheelhouses that now surround it, but it’s great fun to explore, as you’re free to roam around the cells, checking out the in-built stone shelving, water tanks, beds and so on. Inland lies the maze of grass-topped foundations marking out the Viking longhouses, and towering over the whole complex are the ruins of the laird’s house, built by Robert Stewart, Earl of Orkney and Lord of Shetland, in the late sixteenth century, and the Old House of Sumburgh, built by his son, Earl Patrick.

The island of Mousa boasts the most amazingly well-preserved round tower (broch) in Scotland. Rising to more than 40ft, and looking rather like a Stone Age cooling tower, Mousa Broch has a remarkable presence, and even makes an appearance in the Norse sagas.

The 40ft tall Mousa Broch on Mousa Island is one of the best preserved prehistoric buildings in Europe - shutterstock

The low entrance-passage leads through two concentric walls to a central courtyard, divided into separate beehive chambers. Between the walls, a rough (very dark) staircase leads to the top parapet; a torch is provided for visitors. Mousa is only a mile wide, but if the weather’s not too bad it’s easy enough to spend the whole day here. From late May to late July, thousands of storm petrels breed in and around the broch walls, fishing out at sea during the day, and returning to the nests after dark.

A small passenger ferry runs to Mousa from Sandwick. The ferry runs special late-night trips, setting off around 11pm.

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Cliffs in a Storm

© Les Sinclair

Eshaness, Shetland

SPECTACULAR SHETLAND

Shetland is a UNESCO Geopark. Travel to the spectacular cliffs at Eshaness, Shetland's volcano.

First, we travel across to the west side of the Mainland and the picturesque village of Scalloway - the old capital of Shetland, with its looming 400-year-old castle - and the ancestral home area of your tour guide! His family have been in this area for hundreds of years. Then it is north, through the narrow, fertile Tingwall valley, site of the Thing, the old Norse parliament. From there we carry on northwards through the lonely, wilderness of the Lang Kames to the tiny village of Voe - looking as if it had been transplanted from the Norwegian fjords. Continuing north past Mavis Grind - where the Mainland of Shetland is almost divided in two – we arrive at Northmavine and Hillswick with its timber-built hotel. Originally built in Norway, the hotel was floated to Shetland in sections and rebuilt to accommodate tourists arriving by steamer. A short, picturesque drive takes us to Eshaness with its square lighthouse perched on the clifftop. Black, basalt cliffs dissect the caldera of an ancient volcano. The tour guide will take you for a short stroll along this rugged coastline with its cliffs, blowholes and spectacular rock stacks. It is then a short drive to Stenness, site of a 19th century Haaf fishing station where your tour guide will describe the type of fishing done there in the 19th century. This was a dangerous undertaking carried out by hardy men in small, open boats. Many lives were lost over the years. There will also be time to visit Tangwick Haa - once the home of the powerful Cheyne family and now a small museum - and enjoy refreshments at the nearby Braewick Café with breath-taking views over St Magnus Bay. Finally, your tour guide will drive you back to whichever destination you want to be dropped off.

From £65 per adult

Departure days.

• W Wednesday

January — December

Contact details

• +44 (0797) 9644020
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• Mainland, Shetland
• Driver guide
• Small Group (1-16)

Tour prices

From £65 Per Adult £55 Concession

Prices are subject to change depending on season

Tour company information

Roundabout shetland.

Our islands are beautiful: peaceful, vibrant and friendly. A tour of Shetland with our professionally-qualified, local guide ensures your visit is enjoyable and memorable. Tour Shetland in our comfortable, 7-seater vehicle on your very own, personalised tour. We provide half-day, whole-day, and multi-day tours. During your tour, be informed – and entertained – as you explore prehistoric and Viking sites, castles, geological wonders, lonely beaches; seabird crowded cliffs. Have your own coach or vehicle? Our guide can step onto your vehicle and guide you through our islands.

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Mon-Sun: 08.00 - 20.00

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The content of many of our web listings is provided by third party operators and not VisitScotland. VisitScotland accepts no responsibility for (1) any error or misrepresentation contained in third party listings, and (2) the contents of any external links within web listings ((1) and (2) together hereinafter referred to as the "Content"). VisitScotland excludes all liability for loss or damage caused by any reliance placed on the Content. The Content is provided for your information only and is not endorsed by VisitScotland.

Shetland Islands Tourist Guides Association

Tourist guide services in shetland.

. Employing a friendly and knowledgeable Shetland Guide is the best way to make your holiday in our beautiful Islands truly memorable. Most of our guides are locals with an accredited guiding qualifications and can advise you on the best areas, sites and shops to visit.  And they will be delighted to share those extra little surprises and ‘best-kept-secrets’ around Shetland that you wouldn’t experience on your own.

Our Guides can assist with compiling an itinerary that is tailored to your interests and requirements.  So no matter how long your stay, how big or small your party or whatever your special interest in any part of Shetland may be – we are here to help you make the most out of your visit, discovering Shetland’s archaeology, wildlife, geology, genealogy, history, botany, traditional music and culture.

We promote the training and recruitment of multilingual Guides, so wherever you come from, you’ll receive a warm welcome in your native language.

Most SITGA guides  are affiliated to the  Scottish Tourist Guides Association which is endorsed by VisitScotland**.   All our Guides adhere to the STGA Code of Conduct and Standards of Performance .

** VisitScotland is delighted to endorse the Scottish Tourist Guides Association as the professional membership body for fully trained and accredited tourist guides in Scotland . STGA accredited guides are passionate ambassadors for Scotland and in providing our visitors with information and inspiration, help deliver a memorable experience for them.  (February 2009)

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How to Spend a Week in Shetland

November 6, 2019 by Silvia 7 Comments

I visited Shetland as part of a paid partnership with VisitScotland, PromoteShetland, and NorthLink Ferries 

Shetland consists of over a hundred islands, fifteen of which are inhabited, which means there is a  lot to see here.

I only had a week for my trip to Shetland, so I was never going to manage to see all of the islands. There’s so much to see and experience here. But the great thing about collaborating with local tourism boards is that they have the local inside knowledge to plan the best itineraries. And I really think they did!

I covered a lot of ground in a week, and I felt like I got a feel for lots of different aspects of life in Shetland. And so I thought I’d share my itinerary with you so you can plan an equally amazing Shetland trip.

I will say that my itinerary was quite packed and you might not want to do all the things included here, but instead pick and choose what appeals most.

I’ve also made a video featuring the highlights of my trip (including lots of adorable Shetland ponies!):

Day 1: Ferry to Shetland

I already wrote about my experience on the NorthLink ferry from Aberdeen to Lerwick in my previous post about Shetland , so you can read more about it there. The ferry leaves at either 5 pm or 7 pm, depending on whether it will be making a stop at Orkney, and then it arrives around 7:30 am, but you can stay on board until 9:30 am so you can enjoy a leisurely breakfast.

You can also fly to Shetland, but personally I love taking ferries and I would say the boat journey is part of the whole Shetland experience! I stayed in their “cabin twin outer” which had two beds and a big window looking out to the sea. But there are a bunch of other ticket options as well. You can book your ferry ticket here .

Day 2: Burra

First up on my Shetland itinerary was the town of Scalloway, about a fifteen minute drive from the ferry terminal in Lerwick.

I had been a bit nervous about driving a manual car on the left side of the road and kept asking my British friends to review the UK roundabout rules with me (multi-lane roundabouts are a rarity in Norway!), but once I headed to Scalloway I had to laugh at myself because driving in Shetland is actually really easy. There isn’t much traffic outside of Lerwick, so if you’re nervous about driving in Shetland, don’t be.

I first stopped by Sarah Kay Arts and Gardens , which is part of Shetland’s Craft Trail . Sarah wasn’t around when I visited, but her cat kindly showed me around the gardens, which have a stunning view out over Scalloway.

I then headed to the Scalloway Museum , which has some history about Scalloway, including the earliest settlers. And there’s also an exhibit about the Shetland Bus, which was a clandestine operation linking Shetland and Norway during World War II.

And then next to the museum you’ll find Scalloway Castle, built in the late 1500s, which is free to visit, and you can even go inside. If it’s locked you can get the key from the museum.

And then I stopped by the Scalloway Hotel for a delicious lunch of crab linguine while watching the football on TV with some locals. I loved the cosy pub atmosphere here, and I imagine it would be a nice place to overnight as well.

After lunch I headed to Bridge End for the Shetland Pony Experience , which ended up being a highlight of my entire week in Shetland. Seriously, you have to do this when you come to Shetland!

Shetland ponies are just the cutest, and it was great to learn more about them – especially at the start of my trip, so I felt comfortable petting all the other ponies I saw around the islands.

After leaving the ponies I took the afternoon to explore more of the Burra peninsula, walking along Banna Minn beach and Kettle Ness.

The weather was quite stormy, so after a while I was happy to warm up at Mike Finnie’s Red Houss Shetland , another workshop along the Craft Trail. Mike is a man of many talents, once working as an architect and now painting watercolors, hand printing Shetland images, and crafting silver jewelry inspired by the Shetland Islands.

Mike was finishing off a silver Fair Isle button making workshop when I arrived, so I took the chance to chat with his wife over a cup of tea. I’d definitely try to finagle a tea invite while visiting Red Houss, because the inside of Mike Finnie’s home is another work of art. I also later heard several people mention his button workshop as one of the highlights of Shetland Wool Week.

And then I walked up the street to the Burra Bears workshop, where Wendy first began transforming Fair Isle jumpers into teddy bears.

These days Burra Bears design their own Fair Isle fabrics, which are knitted at the local textile college. In fact Wendy proudly told me that everything about the bears is local, from the fleece on the sheep all the way to the finished product, so the first time these bears leave the islands are when they’re off to their new homes.

Wendy has so many touching stories about the adventures her bears have been on, and while I hadn’t thought about it before, a teddy bear really is the sort of item that is going to be treasured and even passed down through generations. And it was heartwarming to hear how excited this makes Wendy – like I don’t know when I’ve talked to someone who is so passionate for their work. Which is all to say, I highly recommend visiting Burra Bears, and I’m sure you’ll leave her workshop feeling inspired.

I was exhausted by this point of the day, so I was very happy to drive to Brae to check into B usta House Hotel .

As I said in my last post, Busta House is no ordinary hotel, and when I think back on my time in Shetland I think I’ll always remember my stay here.

I also had dinner at Busta House in their gorgeous dining room and the food was delicious. Highly recommended! I also enjoyed eavesdropping on the table of a dozen Swedish women next to me – I would love to return to Shetland with a group of friends like that when I’m older, and it sounded like they were having such a fun time.

Day 3: Wildlife & Eshaness

I wasn’t exactly thrilled to see a 7 am wake up on my itinerary for today, but this morning actually ended up being another highlight of my Shetland trip.

I met up with Richard Shucksmith of Shetland Photo Tours for a morning of tracking otters and whales off the coast. Richard is a photographer (you can see his images on his Instagram and Facebook pages), so on his tours he’ll help you get shots of the wildlife you see. Unless like me you’re more interested in watching through your binoculars. If I had been taking photos, mine would have looked something like this:

Ah if only. This photo was taken by Richard Shucksmith, of course.

We spent the morning following an otter along the coastline, and I was impressed by how well Richard could predict the otter’s movements. It was quite exciting to follow along with someone who knew so much about otters.

We then drove to a different area to try to spot some killer whales, but we were unlucky with our timing, as they didn’t show up until a few hours after we had left.

The morning was still great fun though, and I’d say that of everything on this itinerary the Shetland Pony Experience and Shetland Photo Tours were the two most exciting experiences I had in Shetland and really shouldn’t be missed.

I then stopped at the Braewick Café & Caravan Park for a delicious lunch with what I imagine must be the best view of any restaurant in Shetland.

Wanting to take in even more incredible views, I headed to the Eshaness lighthouse and followed the Eshaness coastal walk from there. And oh what views! I couldn’t believe that I was all alone for my hike here – in many other places a walk like this would have been crowded with tourists.

I also drove over to Stenness Beach and walked along the coast from there, which offered some more beautiful coastal views.

And then at the end of the day I had dinner at Drumquin Guest House, which was one of my favorite meals in Shetland. They source local produce wherever possible, and I loved the cosy atmosphere here. You do have to order from their menu in advance, so they can go out and get supplies for your meal. You can see their menu here .

Day 4: Muckle Roe & Lerwick

I checked out of Busta House this morning and then headed to Muckle Roe for a hike.

I walked along the coast to the Hams of Roe , which took about five hours, and I’d say this was my favorite coastal walk I went on in Shetland. The views were incredible, and again I was alone here – I think I saw three other people the entire time.

The route is a little confusing in places, so I do recommend pulling up the route guide and map beforehand so you know which turns to take (and no, my phone didn’t have reception here).

Afterwards I headed to Frankies Fish & Chips in Brae for a much deserved, delicious lunch.

My final stop for the day would be Lerwick, but on my way I drove by the Bonhoga Gallery and Café , which I couldn’t recommend more highly. The staff are lovely and super chatty, and the gallery, gift shop, and café are all worth your time. It was also exactly the afternoon pick me up I needed after my morning hike!

When I got to Lerwick I stopped in at Kathy Coull’s Mini Taatit Rug Workshop, which was part of Shetland Wool Week . Kathy is from Fair Isle, which she told me is Shetland’s most remote inhabited island.

It was fun to get a bit of a taste for Shetland Wool Week, and what struck me most was that none of the participants I spoke to were here for the first time. I mean, I’m sure there were plenty of first-timers at Wool Week this year, but it also seems that if someone attends once, they are going to come back again (and again, and again).

And that’s how I feel about visiting Shetland in general. I’m sure I’ll return again, as there’s simply so much to see in Shetland, and it’s such a unique destination.

After the workshop I drove over to the Mareel Art Centre  for an evening concert. As I’ve said before, you should definitely try to catch a concert while in Shetland as music is a beautiful part of the Shetland experience.

I finished off the day with dinner at The String Cafe in downtown Lerwick. The atmosphere there is lively and the food delicious, plus it was conveniently right down the street from my guest house.

In Lerwick I stayed at Fort Charlotte Guest House , which is a very cosy guest house with the most incredible breakfasts. It’s also right in downtown Lerwick and very budget-friendly.

If you stay here just be aware that it is a family-run guest house and they don’t have a staffed reception, which means that you will need to call them when you arrive to check in. Just wanted to give you a heads up, in case you’re coming from abroad and don’t have a local sim card to make calls.

Day 5: South Mainland

After an incredible breakfast at my guest house, I drove to Sumburgh Head Lighthouse . Standing up at the lighthouse felt a bit like standing on the edge of the world, maybe partly because it was so windy that day.

And then from the lighthouse I drove down to the Jarlshof Prehistoric and Norse Settlement , which houses a huge range of archaeological findings covering over 4,000 years of Shetland’s history. The location is also stunning, right along the water.

After that I drove to Bigton to check out Paparwark Furniture , another stop along Shetland’s Craft Trail. Here Cecil Tait uses traditional techniques to create a blend of traditional and modern furniture pieces inspired by Shetland’s history. He also takes custom orders to create unique pieces special to his customers’ specifications.

But one of the best things about Paparwark Furniture is the workshop’s stunning location overlooking the Isle of St. Ninian’s. And in fact Cecil also runs an Airbnb here that I think would make for the loveliest quiet escape in Shetland. He also has a flock of sheep that he’ll let you help feed, which I can tell you is a surprisingly entertaining experience. I don’t know why I find sheep so funny, but Shetland sheep are especially cute and hilarious.

Of course after leaving Paparwark Furniture I had to explore St Ninian’s and its beautiful tombolo beach some more. I followed  this circular walk . I will say that this was the most crowded coastal walk I did in Shetland – there were a lot of people here, maybe partly because of Shetland Wool Week? Or maybe simply because the scenery here is spectacular.

I then returned to Lerwick for the evening, and had dinner at Fjarå Café Bar . The food here was  so  good. As an added bonus, of all the places I ate in Shetland I’d say this was one of the best for solo diners, as the scattered high table setup meant that I wasn’t staring awkwardly at the table in front of me.

Day 6: South Mainland & Lerwick

My final day in Shetland! This is where I’d insert a sobbing emoji if I were telling you all this over WhatsApp. But don’t worry, I still managed to make the most of my last day here.

After checking out of my guest house I drove to Hoswick to check out Nielanell Design Studio .

Niela Kalra was at the shop, so I got the chance to speak to her about her contemporary knitwear designs, as well as her other art projects – she is a woman of many talents!

Nielanell is a must-visit if you’re looking to buy some knitwear while in Shetland (I mean, what better souvenir?), but also if you’re interested in learning more about Shetland knitwear.

While my mother was always knitting when I was growing up and I’ve knitted my fair share of scarves over the years, I don’t otherwise know much about knitting, something which Shetland Wool Week had highlighted for me.

So chatting with Niela was like taking a crash course in Shetland knitwear. I learned so much in our short conversation, and I imagine if you are more knowledgable you’d learn even more from her. I especially loved that while we mostly talked about knitting, I left Niela’s studio with a much deeper understanding of Shetland heritage and culture.  How did she do that?

While in Hoswick you should also stop by the Hoswick Visitor Centre , right down the street from Nielanell, to learn a bit more about the area and chat with locals at the café. To be honest I was tempted to skip the walk I had planned and stay here for the rest of the afternoon instead.

But I’m glad I didn’t! The coastal walk to No Ness and the Broch of Burraland was the perfect way to finish off my time in Shetland. I followed this route , which took about three hours, including lots of stops for photos.

And then I returned my rental car to the ferry terminal and got on the ferry back to Aberdeen.

Day 7: Aberdeen

We arrived in Aberdeen at 7 am the next morning. I had a morning flight so headed straight to the airport, but Aberdeen itself is a lovely city that I’d definitely recommend spending some time in.

Also I found it quite stressful getting to the airport in time for my flight, as the taxi I had pre-booked never arrived, and then the replacement taxi they sent also never arrived. I finally walked into the city and managed to hail a taxi, and while I technically arrived to the airport after check in had closed I still managed to get on my flight, phew. Lesson learned: Aberdeen airport taxis aren’t super reliable, so make sure to schedule lots of time between your ferry and flight!

I really love Aberdeen, and I’ve written more about visiting Aberdeenshire here and here .

And if you’re looking for a place to stay, I spent the night before my Shetland trip at the Carmalite Hotel , which I couldn’t recommend more highly.

If you like a hotel with character you will love the Carmalite. And I particularly like that they offer a wide range of rooms from very affordable standard rooms to lavish designer suites, so you can stay here on pretty much any budget. It’s also just a short walk to the NorthLink ferry terminal, so you won’t have to worry about getting a taxi.

You can find more information about planning your Shetland trip at  Shetland.org  and  NorthLink Ferries

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Renates Reiser says

November 6, 2019 at 9:18 pm

This looks amaaazing! Those shetland ponies, oh my god. The Shetland Islands have been on my must visit list for a long time now (like every other inch of Great Britain), so I am hoping to go there in not too long. The Up Helly Aa festival is also definitely on my bucket list!

November 7, 2019 at 12:22 pm

Awesome read!! Loved this so much , Keep inspiring people 🙂

November 7, 2019 at 4:18 pm

I love reading about Shetland and I’m glad you enjoyed it as much as I always do. I haven’t visited any of the places on the craft trail you visited apart from Nielanell (love her work) and now I really want to go to all these places on my next visit. Also, I always sleep in my van or tent so haven’t stayed at any of the places you stayed at, but the Busta House Hotel still interests me because of its history. Local author, Marsali Taylor, has written a book called ‘The Story of Busta House’ which is an interesting read.

November 9, 2019 at 2:30 pm

Wow, this looks absolutely amazing and abandoned and I love it! It looks like some forgotten land, not overcrowded by tourists like almost everything else. So beautiful. Scotland has been a dream of mine for a really long time.

November 13, 2019 at 4:34 am

I have to say Shetland has not been on my radar, but those ponies have me all heart-eyed! Appreciate the detailed post!

Gina Byfield says

June 24, 2020 at 11:06 pm

Fantastic read, just what I was looking for. Planning to go there on my own in October for 7/8 nights and didn’t know where to start, thank you I shall be following in your footsteps:)

Jeffrey T says

June 29, 2023 at 2:07 pm

A very good advice for arranging my itinerary to Shetland, thanks. In Aberdeen, there is no need to take taxi to the airport. Bus #727 from Union Square Bus Station in Guilt Street to airport only takes 45 minutes. The bus station is just a few minutes walk from where you stayed.

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Once a full-time nomad, I'm now trying to find a balance between continuing to explore off the beaten path places around the world while also building a home in Norway. Want to know more? Head to my About page !

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